How to lay profiled timber. Self-assembly of a house from profiled timber: technology, instructions

All photos from the article

Modern house from profiled timber - this is a very reliable structure with high operational characteristics. The naturalness of the material makes this option much more attractive than most others, and the possibility of implementing any ideas will make it possible to realize the most original ideas. In this review, we will consider what nuances should be taken into account during the assembly process and what criteria should be followed when choosing a particular option.

Pros and cons of this option

To begin with, let's figure out what advantages a profiled beam has:

Environmental friendliness	Wood is a renewable natural material that does not adversely affect human health and environment. The property of the material to absorb moisture from the air and give it away allows you to always maintain an optimal microclimate in the premises, so living in such a house has a positive effect on the body.
budget	The price of this material is quite attractive, while the quality is much better than conventional raw materials. Experts have calculated that the total cost of building a house from profiled timber will be lower than when using brick or other materials.
Simplicity of work	Assembling a house from a profiled beam with your own hands is quite real, but it is important to take into account one recommendation - buy a ready-made kit for a particular project, then you will have instructions at hand, and with the help of several people you can cope with the work in a fairly short period of time
attractiveness	If you purchased high-quality processed material, then interior decoration houses from profiled timber will consist only in applying a decorative and protective coating. You do not need to spend time and very solid funds to purchase finishing materials, which further increases the attractiveness of the project

Important!
Remember one a simple recommendation: in the process of work, handle the elements carefully, do not walk on them and do not put them on dirty surfaces, otherwise you will later have to remove all these contaminants with sandpaper.
It is much easier to be careful and not do unnecessary work.

To build a house from a bar, certain carpentry skills are required. The process of building a house is carried out in several stages. The laying of profiled timber should be carried out according to the developed technology in order to achieve the best result. It is also important to carry out appropriate calculations and select high-quality materials. The work carried out by specialists will help to build a house as soon as possible and save costs.

Laying profiled timber using the correct technology will ensure high quality construction. Source tiu.ru

Foundation preparation

For building a house, the tape is considered the optimal foundation. For its arrangement, stones and vegetation are removed, mounds and pits are leveled. When the site is leveled, the marking of the territory is carried out. After that, a trench is dug, the depth of which depends on the height of the future building and the soil, the width is at least 25 cm. The profiled timber is light enough, so a shallow foundation can be used for a one-story building.

For construction of several floors or erection on unstable soil, the foundation must correspond to the level of soil freezing. On average, this figure reaches 1.2-1.5 m.

The following materials are needed for the foundation:

concrete, sand, gravel;

formwork;

reinforcing rods.

Every home starts with the preparation of the foundation. Source penza-press.ru

The trench is covered with sand and gravel, a mesh is laid with rods to reinforce the foundation. To connect the rods, it is recommended to use a knitting wire, not welding. The formwork is laid out, and then everything is poured with concrete. For the manufacture of concrete mortar, cement, sand and gravel are used - all components are thoroughly mixed. The ratio of materials is 1:3:4, the brand of cement is at least 400. The foundation stands for about 2 weeks.

Laying the first row

For the construction, only smooth and whole bars are used, which have no visible defects. Laying timber must meet all technological standards. Only light and dry materials are used, if gray sections or spots are found on it, then they cannot be used. In the process of construction, roofing material, bitumen, pins and an antiseptic are additionally laid.

For structural strength, dowels are used to fasten the timber Source myvideosait.ru

The dried foundation is covered with bitumen, roofing material is on top, its width is at least 20 cm more than the foundation, the edges hang evenly on both sides. Such waterproofing will protect the future structure from moisture. At all joints, the roofing material is laid with an overlap of 10 cm, well coated with bitumen and pressed. Before assembly, you must determine the type of connection in the corners. A cutout at the upper beam of the lower part is considered advantageous, and vice versa at the bottom. This mounting option allows you to save on material, and the ends will not go beyond the corners of the building.

All work on the assembly of the structure begins with the marking and further cutting of the prepared material. Before assembly, the tree is treated with an antiseptic, dried, and only then holes are drilled in it every 50 cm along the beam. Two beams are laid on both sides, more on top, grooves are made in them at the ends. The row is leveled, and the corners are adjusted, the protrusions are corrected with a planer.

Source giropark.ru

After fixing the first row, assembling a house from a bar involves the installation of a floor covering, as well as the foundation of the walls. Beams of 15x10 cm are used. Grooves of 40 cm are cut out in the bars with inside(it is recommended to use "T"-shaped grooves), the ends of the beams must be cut. This method of tie-in increases the strength of the joints. After installing the beams, they are aligned horizontally so that they are in the same plane.

Beam marking

1 - joints;

A, C / D, B - longitudinal / transverse walls;

E - partitions.

Walls can be built from solid timber and extensions, partitions / transverse - from solid timber. In the longitudinal wall, an overlap of 15 cm is made to the floor. To obtain the most accurate and uniform dimensions and cutouts, it is best to use templates that will help you quickly complete the process and transfer the contours to the timber.

All markings on the bars are made according to one template Source pinterest.ru

Joining a log house, drilling holes, insulation

To connect each crown, dowels made of wood or metal are used. From the end of the beam, they are located at a distance of at least 25 cm, and then every 0.9-1.5 m. For any part, even the smallest, at least two dowels should be used, the length of which is at least one and a half times longer than the beam. The pins must be deepened into the tree by a few centimeters.

The holes are slightly smaller in diameter so that they fit snugly. The depth of the hole is a few centimeters more than the dowels used. For drilling, a drill with a limiter is used so that all dimensions are the same. Sealing is carried out with a tape of a special insulation. The tape is stretched over the entire surface of the beam in several layers, fixed with staples. Outside, if the wall is not sheathed, the gasket is made at a distance of several centimeters so that it does not get wet.

The beam is overlapped on top of each other, the edges are fixed with dowels. Source rwhouse.ru

Walling

A log can be tied up in several ways:

in a paw or bowl - for round logs;

on the root tenon - for a rectangular section, a laborious method, but provides a high density of joints.

The pins used can be wood or metal. Standard sizes height 12-15 cm, thickness 2.5 cm, the holes for them should be a few centimeters deeper. The laid row is adjusted in the corners, the insulation is laid and the next crown of logs is laid on top, then the dowels are driven in. Insulation can be tow, felt or jute. Fixation of materials is carried out with a stapler. When several rows are assembled, openings for windows and doors are cut out, holes are made on the sections to ensure air exchange. On the last two rows, grooves are made for the ceiling.

At a sufficient level of laying the timber, openings for windows and doors are cut out. Source iskona.org

When assembling the walls, one must take into account the fact that virtually all the bars will differ by millimeters from each other, which can adversely affect the result. Therefore, to make a flat side is obtained only from the inside or outside. Sometimes a curved or twisted beam will come across. It is recommended that the former be cut into small pieces, and the latter should be used for various outbuildings on the site, baths, or used for other purposes. A beam curved in one plane cannot be used for walls, expecting that it will level out under the weight of other materials - this will not happen. A curved beam can be laid into the wall only by aligning it horizontally with consistent fixation with dowels.

In the course of work, the assembly is constantly checked, and the following parameters are controlled. If any deviations are found further work stop until the problem is fixed. Particular attention is paid to the height of the corners and verticality. In case of problems with verticality, the problem is eliminated up to the replacement of the bars. In this case, the height of the corners can be adjusted by spacers between the crowns.

All corners in the house, vertical and horizontal, must be 90° Source cocinandote.com

Assembly log house can be carried out in two ways of laying the timber - with or without residue. In the first case, you can get a warmer and more stable house with the simplest construction scheme. However, the material will be wasted with more waste, increased laying costs and a smaller building footprint. In addition, such a house is very difficult to insulate or sheathe with siding. In the second case, there will be no convex walls, so additional finishing and insulation can be carried out, inside it increases common space. But it is very important to adhere to all technology so that the house is not blown through.

Openings for doors and windows

The formation of the doorway begins with the 2nd crown, the height to the window is at least 70 cm. The formation of openings can be carried out in two ways. "Draft" opening preparation for the creation of the opening. The opening itself is equipped for installation after shrinkage of the timber. The assembly of the structure is accelerated, bars are mounted in the openings for fastening the walls.

Source krsk.au.ru

In the second option, they are immediately equipped for installation, decks are placed that connect the timber and act as slopes. If metal-plastic windows are being installed, then decks can be omitted. A vertical groove is made at the ends along the opening, where the rail is inserted. Reiki / decks are made 5-7 cm smaller than the opening so that it does not interfere with shrinkage.

Installation of windows and doors with a "rough" opening is carried out by sawing it to the appropriate dimensions. The joints are sealed with a heater, it must be nailed at an angle. Then a window box is inserted, fixed to the deck with self-tapping screws, a gap for shrinkage on top, it is filled with soft insulation.

When installing the box, the windows must leave gaps for shrinkage. Source patter.ru

Roof assembly

The beams lie at a distance of 90-110 cm from each other, if the attic is used as a living space, then beams of 15-20 cm are used, non-residential - 10-15 cm. After that, the support posts and rafters are fastened. Boards with a width of about 15 cm and a maximum thickness of 2 cm are used for the crate. The distance between the rafters depends entirely on the weight of the ceiling, the standard is 1.2 cm, fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws or nails. Maximum attention is paid to the fasteners of the support posts. Waterproofing is laid on the crate, and then the roofing.

Video description

Briefly, the process of building a house from a bar displays this video:

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer turnkey construction of houses from profiled timber. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Conclusion

Laying profiled timber requires certain knowledge and skills. It is very important to prepare quality material and observe all construction technology. Only in this case, you can get a good, warm and durable house, bathhouse or other building. Profiled timber is distinguished by its favorable price and light weight, so it allows you to further save on the foundation.

Profiled timber has deservedly become one of the most popular materials for the construction of low-rise wooden buildings. But this does not relieve him of the shortcomings inherent in all other building materials from solid wood. That is why when using profiled timber, it is necessary to strictly follow the technology of its laying. In this article, we will try to fully disclose the issues that may arise when assembling a house from profiled timber.

The sequence of laying profiled timber

We will assume that the foundation for the house has already been erected and managed to gain the necessary strength. Given the relatively small mass of profiled timber and a house built from it, it is advisable to opt for economical options for the base: a shallow tape or a bored foundation.

The first crown is the most important

One of the most vulnerable wooden house- the first, lowest, crown (one row of bars forming the contour of the house). The reason is simple: it is closest to the surface of the earth. Moreover, it is in direct contact with the foundation, which “pulls” water well. Therefore, for starters, it is necessary to shield the first crown from the foundation with a layer of waterproofing. It can be a layer applied to the base bituminous mastic, two layers of roofing felt, etc. A lining beam with a thickness of 100 mm and a width not less than the width of a profiled beam is laid on the waterproofing - another intermediate link between the wall material and the foundation. It is best if the lining beam is made of larch, which is distinguished by good resistance to decay. But even in this case, the material will have to be treated with antiseptic preparations. The construction of a house from profiled timber has begun.

Next, the lower crown is laid, which is a beam with one (upper) profiled side. All horizontal planes are treated with an antiseptic, after the composition has dried, a layer of jute sealant (5 mm thick) is laid on them. Floor beams can crash into the first crown, but it is better if they rely on the foundation grillage: when the lower crown rots, it will less problems with his replacement. It is preferable if the first 2 crowns are made of larch.

About the treatment of timber with antiseptics

Considering that after assembling the house you will have the opportunity to process only accessible parts of the walls, protection of all other surfaces must be carried out until the profiled timber is laid. It is advisable to do this before the immediate assembly of the house. Tikkurila, Senezh, etc. can be used as antiseptic compounds.

Seal for insulation

Ideally, the use of jute is necessary only for corner connections profiled timber - the most vulnerable places at home. But some types of profile, for example, Finnish, initially involve laying a jute tape along the entire beam in its middle part. The main purpose of the jute sealant is to reduce the ventilation of the walls. Usually a layer of 5 mm is sufficient.

Connection with dowels

Nagel - a pin, spike, used to fasten elements wooden structure. It is an oblong fastener with a square or round section. It can be wooden (when assembling a house from a profiled beam, it is better to use this one), metal or plastic. Fastening with dowels is used in cases where the moisture content of the timber exceeds 20%. This is done so that when it dries, the beam does not turn out, and cracks do not form between the crowns - the dowel works on bending and prevents the beam from bending.

• only two beams are connected to each other - no more;
• pins alternate in a checkerboard pattern, the distance between them should not exceed 1500 mm (see diagram below);
• pins should be approximately the same humidity as the beam;
• from the previous paragraph it is obvious that it is better if these are wooden products;
• holes for them are drilled vertically, by 1.5 beams;
• the diameter of the holes may exceed the diameter of the fastener by a maximum of 1 mm. It is better if it is the same (the dowel is driven with a wooden mallet, recessed into the timber);
• the length of the pins should be less than the length of the hole by 20-30 mm (shrinkage compensation)

And remember, according to the technology of laying profiled timber, nails cannot be used!

Preparing for the shrinkage period

Door and window openings are either cut out in the walls, or they are provided in advance (house kit). window blocks are installed at the required level, and the door ones are installed on the first crown. The blocks are fastened along the entire end of the opening, a gap of at least 50 mm is left above the box, which compensates for the subsequent shrinkage of the house.

If it so happened that a profiled timber of natural humidity was used, then after the construction of the log house, a temporary roof is erected to protect it from precipitation. The building is left alone for a period of 6 to 12 months - until the timber dries out and the house shrinks. Only after that you can start finishing work.

About shrinkage of a house from profiled timber

On the Internet, you can find information that profiled timber, for example, of natural moisture, is characterized by 4, 5, 6% shrinkage. But in order to be ready for a real change in the geometric dimensions of the timber, it is worth familiarizing yourself with GOST 6782.1-75 “Softwood lumber. The amount of shrinkage. We will leave the information presented there without comment. We only note that the amount of shrinkage directly depends on the difference between the values ​​of the initial and final moisture content of the profiled beam.

You have probably heard more than once that the best time for assembling a house from profiled timber, winter is the natural humidity. And the point is not so much that the winter wood is somehow special: before the summer, the log house will be able to partially dry out in more mild conditions than if the construction took place in a hot season. Uniform drying is the main antidote to severe deformations in the bar.

For the construction of a residential building, options are most often considered wooden construction. The timber was widely used. Its use makes it possible to facilitate the process of building a log house.

The technology for assembling a house from a bar can differ quite a lot depending on what profile the building material has.

Features, Required Tools

There are several types used:

1. Construction - sawn, or, as it is sometimes called, "shaggy" timber. In cross section, it is a square or rectangle.
2. Profiled beam - differs from the building one by the presence of a system of protrusions and grooves on the upper and lower faces, which ensure the pairing of individual crowns during the construction of the wall.

The design of the interface line provides for the laying of a layer of insulation. Sometimes pairing is carried out without the use of auxiliary materials, as they say, dry.

Manufacturers profiled timber can be produced in two varieties:

• solid - made from a single solid wood;
• glued - during production, individual lamellas are glued together.

When assembling a log house, regardless of the profile used, you will need a minimum necessary set tools:

• saw;
• drill;
• hydraulic or laser level;
• construction stapler;
• sledgehammer.

In addition to the above tools for assembly, auxiliary materials are needed:

• interventional insulation;
• wooden dowels;
• if necessary, metal studs with a diameter of at least M12.

When erecting a log house from profiled timber, most often at the manufacturing plant, according to the project, a house kit is prepared. The output is actually a set-constructor, where each part is numbered. Using the accompanying design drawings, with at least a minimum of experience with the tool, it is relatively easy to assemble the entire structure on site.

The main rule for storing building materials on the site is protection from the effects of precipitation and moisture from the soil. Therefore, it is best to organize a place of temporary storage under a canopy. To prevent the ingress of soil moisture, all parts are placed on temporary stands. The distance to the ground level should be at least 20-30 cm.

The process of assembling a log house is similar to assembling a log house from an ordinary log. On the foundation, waterproofing is laid in 3-4 layers. On top of the waterproofing, a mortgage board and an overlay crown are installed.

Here important point, which determines the quality of the entire subsequent assembly, is the installation of the entire crown exactly on the same level. No matter how well and accurately the foundation is made, differences in height can still occur, sometimes very significant. These differences can be eliminated by placing shims and checking their position with a level. Another way to adjust the base is to sharpen the laying board until a horizontal surface is obtained.

To continue the assembly process, the corners are rigidly fixed with building brackets, after a certain distance (1.5-2 m), but not less than two points on the wall, they are fixed to the foundation using metal anchors.

An interventional sealant is placed in the lock joint and on the entire surface of the timber. To prevent displacement during installation work it is fixed with a stapler.

The erection of the walls of the house from a bar goes by sequentially laying crowns in a predetermined order. To stiffen the structure and prevent deformations in the future, holes are drilled at certain intervals (1-1.5 m), into which dowels made of hardwood (usually birch) are installed with a sledgehammer. The length of the dowel must be sufficient to pass through 2, maximum 3 crowns. At the same time, its length should be several centimeters less than the depth of the mounting hole.

The log house can be given even greater rigidity by additionally fastening the crowns together with screw studs.

Screed with studs is carried out immediately for all crowns. Studs are installed in places of cuts, along windows and doorways. With a large wall length, the interval for installing studs is approximately 2 m.

The sequence of assembling walls from a bar in this case is as follows:

• in adjacent crowns, holes of a slightly larger diameter are pre-drilled than a hairpin;
• grooves of sufficient depth are selected for installing nuts and washers;
• the stud is fixed with nuts in drilled hole lower crown;
• putting the beam on the studs;
• adjustment to the landing sites and checking the horizontal level of the installation;
• fixing the installed beam by tightening the nuts on the studs with simultaneous tapping of the beam with a sledgehammer through the backing board;
• checking the horizontal position of the beam and, if necessary, additional adjustment of the fastening tightening.

Sometimes, instead of studs, self-tapping screws with a socket head are used, which tighten two adjacent crowns. The installation of self-tapping screws is carried out at the intersection of the beams and at intervals of 1-1.5 m. However, this variant of the screed, although easier to perform, has less resistance to deformation.

The combined method of using studs and dowels prevents wall deformations in the vertical and horizontal directions, respectively.

Additional points

When building from sawn timber, there are even more analogies with a log. Here, the corners of the log house can be assembled both in a paw and in a bowl. cutting internal walls, beams and floor lags are made with a frying pan (in visual appearance, such a connection is similar to a dovetail connection).

Mandatory in this case is the fastening of the crowns with the help of dowels (thorns) and studs. This also affects the partitions, since they must be maximally strengthened not only by the structure itself, but also by themselves.

To ensure thermal insulation and tight connection of adjacent crowns, a layer of insulation is laid on the entire surface of the timber.

During the construction of such material, the walls give inevitable shrinkage. And periodically it is necessary to tighten the nuts on the studs.

Regardless of the type of material used, when building a house from a bar, a number of rules must be strictly observed:

1. During installation, each beam must be installed in its place and fixed to it with fasteners. design features or accessories. It is necessary to strive for the highest possible accuracy of the installation.
2. All fixing structures must necessarily ensure free shrinkage of the walls of the house and prevent changes geometric parameters timber.
3. All work related to the installation of dowels must be carried out after fixing the timber.
4. Holes for pins must be made strictly vertically. This is possible when using jig-racks for drilling.
5. The use of screw ties is highly recommended. This will avoid deformation in the vertical direction.
6. After the assembly process is completed, the interventional seams must be caulked using a natural sealant or protected with a special sealant.

The implementation of these rules allows you to get a reliable warm house, which will not have to be periodically patched and repaired and which can be rightfully proud of.