Features of insulation of a log house from the outside. Insulation of a house from a bar: outside or inside, an overview of materials and technologies

23.06.2020

At the moment, timber is one of the most popular materials for building houses. But so that a house made of such natural material can last for many years and not freeze in winter period, it must be properly insulated. And it is necessary to insulate the house in detail, because during frosts the timber itself freezes. Therefore, processing and caulking cracks cannot achieve the desired result. Only an integrated approach to the task and the study of all possible options will create warmth and comfort in the room, despite the seasons.

Why is it more practical to insulate a house from a bar from the outside

Such insulation let you change the look of your home and decorate it afterwards at your discretion.
External insulation reduces heat loss during the heating season, thereby saving money on heating.
The tree is susceptible to negative external influences environment, so insulation from the outside will stop this process.
Another important positive factor in the performance of work on insulation from the outside of a log house will be the ability not to disturb the order of life with repairs in the house itself.

What are the methods of external thermal insulation

There are three common ways to insulate houses from timber:

By creating a ventilation facade.
Sprayed polyurethane foam.
Insulation of the walls of the house with foam boards.

The most convenient and optimal way is considered creation of a hinged ventilation facade, which can be easily mounted with your own hands. And already on top, apply any facing texture that is suitable for the plan. For such purposes, wood, wall paneling, porcelain stoneware, brick, siding are suitable.

Insulation of houses made of timber, therefore, is very practical and durable, since this type of insulation does not lend itself well to external atmospheric phenomena, which is what consumers need. Another benefit of a ventilated façade is that it increases the sound insulation of the home. And of course, it has an increased level of heat protection, which is primarily required.

Work on the insulation of houses from a bar

The technology of the ventilation facade method is simple. Insulation materials are attached to the walls of the house. And already according to this design, the necessary finishing is done in compliance with the abandonment of airspace. In this way, the beam of the house does not rot, does not dampen and does not freeze at sub-zero temperatures.

Thermal insulation for siding has gained particular popularity at the moment; it is equipped on an installed wooden base. To carry out such work on your own, you will need a hacksaw, tape measure, plumb line and level, dowels, self-cuts, insulation, beams and cladding. If you have all the required materials, it will not be difficult to insulate a house from a bar.

As a heater for walls, such heat-insulating materials are used as:

glass wool;
basalt slabs;
mineral wool (used with a moisture-proof diffusion membrane);
expanded polystyrene.

All of the above heaters are the most high performance safety of use by a person and do a good job with their main task, retain heat, isolating the room from external influences. Moreover, they are safe for the environment, which is also of great importance.

Installation of insulation material

The first step in the installation of insulation material is to mark the location of the horizontal crate. In doing so, it must be taken into account that step wooden beams equal to the width of the insulation boards. And the cross section of the bars should correspond to the thickness of the plates.

Fasten the bars to the base of the wall using self-tapping screws. To control the level of the horizontal crate and not to warp the structure, you must constantly use a plumb line and a level. This will prevent the formation of an uneven surface, which will subsequently ensure the quality of the subsequent stages of insulation.

After complete installation the construction of the crate, it is necessary to lay the prepared insulation material. One of the important points of this process is that it is necessary to ensure that the insulation plates fit snugly against the bars and against the wall. Insulation materials are fixed with special dowels. These can be dowels with a parachute or umbrella head.

Now it is necessary to make an air gap on the structure, which is so important for this method of warming the timber base of the house. It is made by mounting a vertical crate. When attaching it, you need to take into account the fact that the distance from the horizontal crate should not exceed five centimeters.

If in the process of thermal insulation mineral wool was chosen as a heater, then it is necessary to perform very important work to protect this layer from moisture. For this purpose, a diffusion membrane is used. The diffusion membrane is a perforated film, which allows evaporation to the outside, but prevents condensate from entering the insulation. Thus retaining all primary properties mineral wool without letting it get wet.

Other mentioned heaters do not need additional funds.

How houses are insulated from timber using polyurethane foam spraying

One of the new methods increasingly used for insulation is polyurethane foam spraying. This is currently a very effective method that meets a number of necessary functions that modern consumers require for insulation. Such the insulation is environmentally friendly, does not burn, is not affected by bacteria and decay.

Moreover, applying it with your own hands is also not difficult. The process consists in the fact that under pressure in the sprayer itself, two liquids are mixed, which foam and solidify on the insulated surface.

For excellent sound insulation and thermal protection, it is enough to spray a small layer of such an insulating material on the outside. Insulation of the timber surface will not require additional treatments. But if there is a desire, then the layer can be increased to any thickness from the customer's requests.

This insulation is good because they can make insulation with their own hands, not only log house. Polyurethane foam spraying can also be used to insulate all the necessary basement buildings. With it, you can easily insulate the foundation of the room.

Wall cladding with wooden planks

Not all trees are suitable for insulating walls made of timber from the outside with boards. For these purposes, you need to use boards of pine, oak, larch. The thickness of the board must be at least twenty-five millimeters. With such parameters, both the walls of the house and the sheathing itself "breathe" better.

When installing cladding wooden planks it is important to remember about the gaps in the upper and lower edges of the facade that need to be made. As a protection against snow and rain for these slots, you need to use special visors that are mounted above them.

As you can see, the insulation of a house from a bar outside can become quite a simple task even for beginners in this business. The main thing is to study the task, decide on the material that is best suited for this case and proceed without haste.

How to sheathe and how to insulate a house from a bar. Video

Houses built of timber are very popular in our country. Such buildings not only look aesthetically pleasing, but are also warm. However, this does not negate the fact that they need to be additionally insulated with various special means.

Features of the procedure

Houses from a bar are chosen by many users. The popularity of such buildings is explained by their attractive and natural appearance, use in the construction natural materials, as well as a comfortable microclimate, which is preserved in such environments. By itself, the timber is a warm material, so houses made of it are considered cozy and hospitable. They are not cold in winter, but not hot in summer either. However, such buildings still need to be additionally insulated, otherwise it will not be so comfortable in them during the frosty seasons.

Warming is primarily required for log houses, in which construction material not thick enough. With an incorrect section inside wooden house complete freezing may occur. This fact suggests that the ceilings in such a structure are unable to retain heat with high quality and one cannot do without a heater. If the timber in the house has a section of 150x150 mm, then it is not necessary for him to provide additional finishing, especially if the building is located in areas with warm and temperate climate. A beam with a section of 180x180 mm is also popular - very warm and reliable houses are built from it, for which additional finishing is also optional. However, it is worth considering that if the cross-section of the timber of the house is correct, all the same, over time, the building material will dry out, and this will also provoke significant heat losses.

If a decision is made to insulate a log house, then you should pay attention that this can be done both outside and inside.

For home insulation inside the following features are characteristic:

with such work, a certain part of the usable living space will inevitably be lost due to installation frame structure under the heater;
a layer of heat-insulating material hides wooden floors underneath, which affects the design of the rooms in the house;
due to the inevitable winter chill wooden walls the dew point moves directly into the inner insulation. After that, condensation and mold appear. It should be borne in mind that monitoring the condition of the timber in such circumstances is not an easy task.

The most common is the insulation of a log house from the outside. It includes the following features:

with such insulation, the usable area of \u200b\u200bliving space does not undergo major changes and does not become smaller;
external works are good because they do not affect internal order household members;
with this method of insulation, the facade of a wooden house is reliably protected from destructive temperature surges, and this significantly extends the life of the building;

if you correctly select a suitable and high-quality insulation, then a comfortable microclimate will not be disturbed in the inside of the house;
most owners turn to such a method of warming so that the house is comfortable and that it “breathes”;
With external insulation you can update the facade in case of its natural darkening;
using external insulation materials, you can protect the timber from damage.

At the moment, there are several basic options for wall insulation in a house made of timber. The hinged ventilated facade is a technology developed as an additional decoration of the building facade.

It is worth considering in more detail what advantages are characteristic of this option for warming a log house:

ventilated facades are distinguished by a long service life, which can reach 50 years;
this option of insulation is characterized by excellent heat and sound insulation, which is noted by many users;
installation of a hinged ventilated facade is considered simple and affordable;
a similar method of insulation allows the use of a variety of facing materials;
with such insulation, the dew point moves outward, which avoids the accumulation of condensate in the material.

The technology of warming a log house for siding largely repeats the hinged ventilated facade. In this case, the insulation is also mounted on the outside, and on top it is supplemented with a decorative coating. Polyurethane technology will be clear to every craftsman who has at least once encountered work related to mounting foam. Main difference this method consists only in the amount of materials required to form a heat-insulating cushion, because they need much more. That is why, when choosing such a technology, it is necessary to stock up on a high-quality spray gun.

Material selection

Modern manufacturers offer a choice of consumers several options for insulating materials.

Mineral wool

Currently, mineral wool is recognized as one of the most popular insulating materials.

It is of the following types:

stone or basalt;
glass;
slag.

All varieties of mineral wool have approximately the same properties and characteristics.

This insulation and all its subtypes are characterized by the following qualities:

mineral wool is fire-resistant and non-flammable;
different biological and chemical resistance;
vapor permeable;
environmentally friendly;
has soundproofing properties.

The main disadvantage of mineral wool is that it is very attractive to rodents. In addition, in case of getting wet, this insulation does not dry out completely, which has a detrimental effect on its qualities. Most specialists use mineral wool in mats when insulating the outside of the house. Rolls in this case are considered less practical and convenient, since it is inconvenient to deploy them on vertical bases. Before installing such a heater, you should make sure that the walls and foundation of the house are steam- and waterproofed with high-quality materials.

Styrene plates

The cheapest insulation is the good old foam. A buyer with any budget can afford it. Such material is characterized by minimal weight and hygroscopicity. In addition, the foam has good thermal insulation qualities.

However, this cheap insulation has its own weaknesses.

Styrofoam is a combustible material. Moreover, during combustion, it actively releases toxic substances that are dangerous to human health.
This insulating material is fragile.
Does not tolerate contact with ultraviolet light.

Polyurethane foam insulation is more expensive. It is a type of plastic. This material has a characteristic cellular and foamy structure. The main component of polyurethane is a gaseous substance, which makes up 85-90% of the total composition. Rigid polyurethane foam is more popular than foam rubber, despite the high cost.

The relevance of this heater is due to the following advantages:

polyurethane easily "sticks" to the bases of the most different materials, from wood to metal;
a similar insulation is made right at the place of all work with a minimum number of components. This fact suggests that in matters of transportation, polyurethane foam is economical;
this material has light weight, so working with him is not so difficult;
floors, supplemented with polyurethane, become not only warmer, but also durable;
This material is not afraid of temperature changes.

Of course, this insulating material has its drawbacks, namely:

when in contact with ultraviolet rays, the insulation often wears out quickly, so it is recommended to “close” it with other materials, for example, plaster or panels;
contacting with high temperatures, the PPU insulation will not burn, but it will actively smolder;
such material cannot be used to insulate roofs from profiled sheets in wooden houses;
PPU is quite expensive, as is the work of spraying it onto the bases from a bar.

Ecowool

Many consumers turn to the insulation of a log house with ecowool. This material is made up of cellulose boric acid, antiseptic components and sodium tetraborate.

This heater has the following advantages:

has excellent soundproofing properties;
to insulate the room, a small amount of such insulating material is required, which indicates its economy;
the composition does not contain hazardous and harmful substances that are harmful to human health;

very easy to blow even into the most inaccessible areas;
is a seamless material, so winter time years with it you can significantly save on heating;
is inexpensive with good quality;
does not cause allergic reactions.

Unfortunately, ecowool also has weaknesses, such as:

over time, the excellent thermal insulation characteristics of ecowool inevitably decrease. At this time, the thermal conductivity of the living space increases;
the installation of this insulation can only be done using special, sophisticated equipment, so it is unlikely that it will be possible to do without the involvement of a team of craftsmen;
so that the thermal insulation of the space does not decrease, you need to contact only highly qualified specialists with rich work experience;

with a dry type of installation of such a heater, quite a lot of dust will remain, and with a wet version, the material will dry for a rather long time;
the rigidity of ecowool is much lower than that of polystyrene materials, so it cannot be installed without first constructing a reliable frame;
ecowool is subject to shrinkage if installed on a vertical base with a density below normal;
experts do not recommend placing this insulating material near sources of open fire, as well as chimneys and chimneys, because the coating may begin to smolder.

Warm plaster

Relatively recently, another interesting insulating material appeared on the market - this warm plaster. Such a heater is good because it is non-flammable, not afraid of sunlight, easy to install and protects wooden houses from the penetration of dampness and moisture.

It has a complex composition, which includes the following ingredients:

glass;
cement;
hydrophobic components.

Foamed polyethylene

Currently, this material is often used to insulate houses made of profiled or glued beams.

Foamed polyethylene has such positive traits, how:

low coefficient of thermal conductivity;
elasticity and pliability in work;
light weight;
affordable cost.

When choosing such a foil material, you should know that it is available in two versions:

LDPE - high pressure raw materials;
HDPE - low pressure polyethylene.

In addition, these heaters come with one- or two-sided foiling.

Sawdust

However, such a warming material also has a number of significant disadvantages, namely:

How to make the necessary calculations?

To insulate a wooden house, you need to calculate the amount of materials. To do this, it is permissible to use a special online calculator. But before that, you need to know the thickness of the foundations (for example, walls), the area of \u200b\u200bthe space, as well as the type of exterior and interior finishes.

Variety of methods

Using the hinged method, the following insulation installation technology is used:

all lumber is processed first special formulations to protect them from decay and insect attack;
outside on wooden house a secure grid is attached. Hydro and windproof materials are nailed onto it. Air will circulate in the spaces between the plates and the crate, so condensate will not accumulate in the insulation;
the crate is leveled with a plumb line using a level;

insulation in this case is carried out between the rails using dowels;
bars are placed on the rails, their thickness should be at least 5 cm, so that there is a small gap between the insulation material and the sheathing;
it is worth moving on to the installation of cladding, for example, siding.

When installing an insulating layer under siding, the following work should be carried out:

you need to set a gap between the rails, which will correspond to the width of the plates, if foam or polystyrene is used;
between the slats there should be a distance of 10–15 mm less than the width of the mat, if the base is insulated with minplates. This must be taken into account when calculating the volume of insulation;
the heater must be mounted by surprise;
when laying mineral wool, a waterproofing layer should be installed on top. To do this, it is permissible to purchase a diffuse membrane. However, such material is not useful if fiberglass or polystyrene is used.

The spray method is simple. When using it, the insulating material is applied using a special sprayer. The wet method of warming a wooden house is considered cheap, but rather laborious.

It includes the following steps:

first, insulation boards are attached to the bases using polymer glue;
a reinforcing mesh is installed on the dowels, and plaster is laid on it (it is called "light").
followed by a layer of "heavy" plaster. Its application begins with the installation of dowels on the insulation boards. Then special blocking plates are used, and the reinforcement mesh is fixed;

plaster is applied and seams are processed;
liquid insulation is sprayed.

Of course, you can also use internal way insulation installation. Moreover, it can be carried out not only for walls, but also for the floor, and for the roof. However, such methods are not used as often as they are less convenient. In this case, methods are used using decorative plaster, lining or panels.

Self-assembly

Fixing insulation coatings can be done by hand. The main thing is to stock up on reliable tools and quality materials.

To get started, you should familiarize yourself with the list of fixtures and materials, namely:

plumb or level (it is recommended to use a bubble or laser tool);
roulette;
injection;
metal ruler;
special dowels for the facade;

When choosing any method of installing insulation, all work steps will be approximately the same.

The general phased course of installing thermal insulation in a house from a bar includes such actions as:

for ventilation of the first insulating layer, first, as a rule, a crate of wooden planks or metal rails is installed;
a frame structure is nailed to the crate to fix the insulation;

installation of insulating material;
if necessary, install a second frame and crate (in the case of double insulation);
an additional layer of heat insulator is laid;
a diffuse membrane is fixed to ensure the protection of materials from moisture and wind;
you can proceed to the installation of decorative cladding. It is worth leaving small gaps for sufficient air circulation.

Among the advantages of log houses, one can single out the naturalness of the wall material, environmental friendliness and good ventilation. Despite the advantages, over time, the thermal conductivity of such buildings decreases, more and more gaps form in the walls, and drafts begin to appear. Warm air quickly leaves the home. To solve this problem, you need additional insulation timber houses.

It is necessary to insulate the dwelling with non-combustible, environmentally friendly and durable material. To choose the right one, you should familiarize yourself with the features of each heater. It is possible to perform the work qualitatively only by familiarizing yourself with the main points regarding insulation.

The first step is always to prepare the surface for further work. First, the walls need to be evaluated, to check how well all previous activities were carried out. At the joints, there may be no big cracks, defects. All this is better to fix at the first stage. After construction, the house will shrink, because the lack of caulking, small cracks are sealed.

The initial stage includes the removal of all foreign elements that may interfere with the insulation of a wooden house from a bar. If work is done inside, all hinged structures are removed, the surface is freed. Outdoor activities include the removal of all nearby plantings that touch the house. In both cases, dust and dirt are removed.

After cleaning the walls, they are treated with a flame retardant solution and an antiseptic. Lubricate several times, use a roller for this. The brush can get into hard-to-reach places. After the walls have dried, their condition is assessed, the need for additional caulking. Cracks are sealed with jute fiber and a chisel.

Important! No heat insulator will make a house better if it has large cracks and chips. Work does not begin until they are completely eliminated.

Wall insulation in a timber house

After carrying out the above described activities, you can proceed to the insulation of the walls. The material is selected, the possibility of carrying out work outside and inside is evaluated. The best option is being considered. To choose the right one, you need to familiarize yourself with the pros and cons of each method.

Advantages and disadvantages of internal and external wall insulation

The first advantage of internal insulation is its low cost. Not required here special devices to climb great height. The turnaround time is much shorter. You can make the walls much smoother. You can perform the necessary actions at any time of the year.

But there are disadvantages:

You have to sacrifice living space if bulk insulation material is used.
The dew point shifts, moisture condensation takes place in a different plane. If the work is done incorrectly, this can lead to freezing of the walls, or their constant moisture. The offset of the point will be inside the room. With external insulation - outside.
There is a risk of mold formation, blackening of the walls.
Slots, joints that are outside the house will still have to be sealed.

The main advantage of external insulation is a higher efficiency of work. The materials used will retain more heat. The dew point moves outward so that the walls will not get mouldy. The useful volume of the room is not reduced. Disadvantages: high cost compared to the internal version of the work; seasonality and dependence on the weather.

The choice of material for external insulation of a house from a bar

For high-quality insulation, it is worth considering the features of each insulation. They differ in characteristics, service life, degree of environmental friendliness and features of the installation. The price of products varies greatly.

Mineral wool and its analogues

With this heater, you can carry out work inside and outside the house. The material is "breathable", which is necessary for wooden walls. The material is not destroyed by rodents, insects, mold does not grow on the surface.

In addition to the above, there are advantages:

relatively low thermal conductivity;
high degree of sound insulation;
ease;
ease of work;
low cost;
ecological purity.

The main disadvantage is the ability to accumulate moisture. If the cotton wool is wet, its performance drops significantly. It dries out for a long time, sometimes not completely. After that, the composition becomes heavy. If the fixation was not secure enough, it may move down under its own weight.

Insulation of the facade of a timber house should take place only according to the technology of a ventilated facade. A reliable vapor barrier is required.

It is worth figuring out how to insulate a house from a bar in order to prevent common mistakes during the work. You can use polystyrene for external and internal insulation. The advantages are low cost, low thermal conductivity. Mounting is simple and convenient. It has good hygroscopicity.

Additional Information! During the purchase, you should pay attention to the tightness of the grains in the block. The higher the strength, the better the insulation performs its functions.

The main disadvantage is high flammability. This is especially important to consider when work is carried out in a wooden house. Birds and small rodents love to eat foam.

This insulation is similar in properties to the previous one. Differs in execution technology, due to which performance characteristics grow significantly. The cost is also higher.

Advantages:

high performance;
does not accumulate moisture in the structure;
not destroyed by rodents, mold;
has high strength;
the installation process is simple and fast.

Among the shortcomings, the high cost is distinguished. It is possible to use not any, but only a certain adhesive composition for fixing to the walls. It is mandatory to install high-quality ventilation of the room, because EPPS does not let air through and natural ventilation wooden house will be broken.

Foamed polyethylene

Foiled polyethylene can be wrapped with a protective membrane on one or both sides. It is used for insulation outside and inside the house. It is usually used not as the main, but as an additional insulation. When answering the question of whether it is necessary to insulate a house from a 200x200 mm timber, it is worth considering not the thickness of the walls, but how well they hold heat. Perhaps minimal insulation is needed to create an ideal microclimate in the room.

Benefits:

low cost;
ease of installation;
hygroscopicity;
high sound insulation;
high performance.

Among the shortcomings are flexibility. Reliable adhesion to the surface is required so as not to reduce the quality of the work performed. You can only glue with special compounds.

Sprayed polyurethane foam

In fact, the material is an ordinary polyurethane foam. It is applied from a special cylinder, and not with a gun. The positive is the possibility of insulation inside and outside the house. Moisture is not absorbed into the surface. Possesses high heat-insulating characteristics. The walls can not be pre-prepared, it is enough to apply the composition to the cleaned surface and it will remain hanging until it hardens. No fasteners or crate needed. The layer will be solid.

The disadvantage is the price of insulation. It is significantly higher than analogues. Without the use of special equipment, the work will not work. Further processing is required, since the composition is destroyed by the action of sunlight. He becomes fragile.

The composition is used for insulation from the outside of objects. It does not react to negative environmental factors, is durable, does not require fastening to fasteners. The material is highly hydrophobic. You can perform a seamless connection. There is no need for further restoration. The material is breathable, so additional ventilation is not needed.

The service life declared by the manufacturers is 15-20 years, but after 5-7 years the composition loses about 30% of its thermal insulation characteristics.

Fire safety is low. To use it, you need special equipment, which is expensive.

Windproof boards Isoplat based on wood fiber

Such plates are quite popular in Europe.

They have the following benefits:

provide high wind protection;
high permeability. It is desirable to use the material in places with a cool climate. In hot weather, it will interfere with the normal ventilation of the premises;
good thermal insulation properties. The indicator is above the level of basalt wool;
high strength. The material adheres well to the surface of the house, but it is not easy to break it;
reliability. The material does not lose its characteristics after some time of use. Properties are preserved throughout the entire period of operation. Exposure to sunlight does not affect the quality of the insulation;
high heat capacity.

The advantages of wind protection boards are obvious, but there are some disadvantages. Their cost is much higher than that of traditional heaters.. It is advisable to use them only in places with a cold climate, because they do not pass air well.

Folgizol

The material stands out among traditional insulation materials with its characteristics. It has a high degree of thermal insulation, sound insulation. In comparison, about 10 mm of foilizol provides the same heat retention as 45 mm of mineral wool or 150x150 mm of brick. Sound and vapor barrier performance is also on top.

The composition weighs very little, its installation is convenient. It is elastic, it will be easy to close any bends of the walls. It is resistant to any chemical influences, protected from the occurrence of mold, fungus, is not interesting for insects and rodents. The service life is 80 years, during which the performance will not decrease. No substances harmful to humans are used in production. No smell, no toxicity.

The disadvantage is the low vapor permeability. For wooden structure this is not very good - the walls will stop "breathing". Answering the question of how to insulate a log house will not work in one sentence. There are many options, there is something for everyone.

SIP panels

Panels are perfect as a base for walls. In comparison, it would take 2.5 m of brick to achieve the same degree of heat loss as 15 cm of panels.

Picture 8. Resistance to heat transfer of materials.

Other positive features:

high degree of sound insulation. The thickness of the material is small, but the penetration of noise from the street is almost completely eliminated;
light weight of the material;
high construction speed. When using SIP panels, it will take 3 weeks to build a cottage with an area of \u200b\u200babout 50 m 2.

The material is usually not used as a heater. You can use it to build a full-fledged dwelling. Among the shortcomings are flammability, the presence of additives that are not considered environmentally friendly. The panels are capable of being attacked by rodents.

Mezhventsovy heaters

The correct choice of interventional heaters depends on the needs in each individual case.

You can identify important points that you should pay attention to:

If the house is being built in autumn, it is worth using jute. Synthetic materials are not used. Shrinkage of structures in winter is almost absent, condensation forms. Therefore, the insulator must pass air well. Synthetics do not have this property.
If there are people with allergies in the family, it makes sense to purchase linen materials. They do not have an allergenic effect. Flax is not used in places with a cool climate. For instance, Siberian winter he cannot bear.
If it is not planned to produce exterior cladding in the house for a long time, it makes sense to use synthetic models of heaters. They do not deteriorate under the influence of active sunlight.

A good interventional insulation has several advantages:

the same thickness over the entire surface;
not exposed to rodents and insects;
after fixing with logs, it does not erode;
different thickness of products allows you to choose the optimal sample for each joint;
insulators retain positive characteristics regardless of the time of year.

The disadvantages of interventional heaters appear if the wrong composition is selected. For example, when a product without pores is selected, and the wall stops passing air, ventilation will be impaired. Any options are suitable for a wooden house, because the walls themselves allow air to pass through, the insulation will not be able to greatly limit this property.

Additional Information! It is advisable not to use interventional heaters as the main ones. If the home loses a lot of heat, they can be used to achieve initial insulation. It is desirable to choose other modern materials as the main ones.

Rules for external insulation of a wooden house

Any tree absorbs moisture. Completely eliminate the hygroscopicity of wood will not work even with impregnations. If ventilation is normally arranged in the dwelling, then the moisture will quickly evaporate without negative impact for construction, a comfortable microclimate will be preserved. If the gas exchange process is disturbed, the tree swells, fungus and mold develop.

In order not to encounter the listed problems, you need to follow the rules:

do not insulate damp walls;
use only vapor-permeable heaters;
thermal insulation materials must be closed on both sides with waterproofing, if it is absent in the layer of the insulation itself;
leave a gap between the final finish and the insulation.

If the walls are only planned to be painted after insulation, or only the seams are insulated, the paint or sealant is also chosen to be vapor-permeable. You can use acrylic-based compositions. Before warming, the surface should be well prepared, cleaned, repaired.

Additional Information! It is important to ensure that beetles do not remain in the wall - woodworms, which can greatly destroy the building. Under an additional layer, they will continue to destroy the structure, nothing will prevent them from multiplying. Over time, the wood will completely deteriorate and become unusable.

Hinged ventilated facade

They have a number of advantages. Among them, there is a lack of the possibility of dampness, a decrease in the number of building materials. Building insulation is very effective. Finishing work you can carry out any on top, there are no restrictions. The building does not overheat in summer due to proper ventilation.

The negative side is the need to inspect the supporting structures. The work must be carried out by specialists, it will be difficult to perform all the actions correctly on your own.

If you decide to do the work yourself, proceed in the following sequence:

Framing arrangement. The bars are installed such that insulation materials are normally placed between them. The maximum thickness is 10 cm. The distance between them should not be more than 60 cm, although it should be calculated based on the size of the insulation. Fasten with screws.
Heater installation. It is advisable to use elastic plates. The distance between the bars will be such that they fit snugly between the beams.
Installation of wind protection. It is fixed to the bars with a stapler. Attach to the insulation with double-sided tape.
Installation of the second crate. Enough bars with dimensions of 5x5 cm. They are fixed on the wooden bars of the first crate.
Installation of a block house, other materials for external cladding.
final surface treatment. Grinding, adjustment of all components, removal of wooden villi is carried out. After completion of this type of work, a layer of paint or varnish is applied.

Wooden houses are insulated with thermal wood, block house, planken, wood-like porcelain stoneware.

Insulation under siding

The main feature is the absence of gaps between the material. Lay them evenly without bending. The material should not protrude and go beyond the boundaries of the bars. Initially, you need to prepare the surface: remove all elements that may interfere with the process: drainpipes, lights, and more. Next, the surface is cleaned of contaminants.

The frame that will hold the siding elements must be impregnated with an antiseptic. It is advisable to use wooden blocks, and not metal elements. Metal collects condensate, which will turn into ice in winter. Standard bars are taken with a section of 50x50 mm.

Mineral wool, suitable as a heater, weighs quite a lot. It is fixed between the installed beams with dowels. A film is installed on top of the insulation material, which protects against steam from the inside and water from the outside. Fasten with a stapler.

First, the crate of the insulation is performed. The bars are arranged vertically in level. A heater is laid inside, a counter crate is placed on top. Its step is 40-50 cm. The bars are vertical. The last action will create a ventilated gap between the sheets and fix the mineral wool sheets.

Polyurethane foam spraying method

For the installation of this type of insulation, special tools are used. The composition comes from 2 containers containing polyol and polyisocyanate. They are mixed in the sprayer and fall on the walls.

Installation is carried out in the following sequence:

After the preparatory work, a wooden crate is mounted. The distance is 30 cm.
Foam fills the space between the bars. Application is made from the bottom up.
If you need to move to another place, the gun is turned off. If it is necessary to apply several layers, the next one is performed only after the previous one has solidified.
The insulation should not protrude beyond the boundaries of the crate. Any irregularities after application are carefully removed with a knife.
After the insulation has hardened, the walls are covered with a reinforcing mesh.
Finishing work in progress.

It is difficult to do the work on your own, even if you have special equipment. Usually involve specialists.

Internal insulation

Expanded clay or sand is used as the simplest materials for floor insulation in a wooden house. They are poured in a layer on top of the rough flooring, which is used as an additional base. The surface is not exposed to fungi, microorganisms. The main disadvantage is the loss of hygroscopicity over time.

Floor insulation

From modern materials for floor insulation, you can use mineral wool, ecowool, fiberglass, polystyrene foam or foam plastic and others. It is worth considering the pros and cons of each composition in order to make the right choice.

When insulating the floor in a house made of timber, it is important to take into account the purpose of the room, the average temperature and humidity. Do not forget about the load on the surface.

The work is divided into stages:

The draft floor is laid along the logs. The main advantage of the design is that no mechanical load affects the insulation material. You can use any composition for insulation. Make from unhewn boards at least 25x150 mm in cross section. The tree must be treated with an antiseptic.
Wooden logs should not reach the walls by about 3-4 cm. They can be placed on the foundation, wooden lining or posts (depending on what is available). A draft beam with a section of 50x50 mm is fixed to them and draft boards are nailed to it below. There should not be large gaps between them. Screws can be used for fastening.
The heater is installed. Glass-, eco-, mineral wool or other heaters fit tightly on wooden base between the lags. The remaining space is filled with mounting foam.
A layer of waterproofing is laid. Be sure to insulate wet rooms at home, or in the case of hygroscopic compounds (fiberglass, mineral wool, ecowool). If sprayed insulation is used, waterproofing can be omitted.

Waterproofing is found in the form of impregnation, paint or adhesive composition. Depending on the choice, it is fixed on the surface layer of the resulting cake.

A vapor barrier is being installed. Immediately on top of the previous layer overlap. The edges protrude 10-15 cm beyond the borders and stick to the logs. The joints are closed with metallic tape.
The final floor is laid and the final finishing is carried out. It must be fixed at a distance of several cm from the draft. To do this, use boards 10-14 cm wide and 3-4 cm thick. At the bottom, they should have channels for natural ventilation.

Wall insulation

It is not worth insulating the walls in the house from the inside with materials that do not allow air to pass through: polystyrene foam, penoizol, extruded polystyrene foam. They are able to create the effect of "greenhouse". You will have to spend money on installing air conditioners to remove moisture from the walls. It is optimal to use mineral wool.

After carrying out the preparatory work, impregnating the walls with an antiseptic solution, a wind and waterproofing layer is installed. It will not allow weathering and moisture penetration from the outside of the home. It is better to use a vapor diffusion membrane for this.

The material will not allow the penetration of liquids, will not stop the movement of steam and air. The waterproofing layer is fixed to the walls with construction stapler. The overlap at the joints is at least 10 cm and is glued with adhesive tape.

Installed wooden frame. The width between the posts is selected based on the width of the insulation. Make the distance 2 cm less than the plates so that the material fits snugly.
The thickness of the frame is 2-3 cm more materials to ensure ventilation. Mineral wool or other substance is laid.
Plastic dowels are used for fixing.

Answering the question of how to insulate a log house for winter residence, it is worth considering climatic conditions. A lot of heaters are suitable, which are attached according to the specified scheme. At the end of the work, a vapor barrier layer is mounted. Usually the membranes are fixed with stapler staples.

The last step is the cleanup. The layer should not interfere with the passage of air currents through the surface. It is advisable not to use plastic options.

Roof insulation

Work in the attic is carried out in the following sequence:

A vapor barrier is installed. Cloths are overlapped by 15-20 cm over the entire surface. They should be glued with tape and fixed with brackets to the beams. When using polyurethane foam or other similar compounds, this step is not necessary.
The heater is installed. If it is ecowool, events are carried out by spraying. In other cases, all boards are dismantled so that the material covers the entire surface of the attic space. When using mineral wool and similar substances, the installation must be tight.
Waterproofing is being installed. Be sure to overlap, adjacent strips are connected with waterproof tape.
Additional beams are being installed on which the finishing coating is fixed.

Mistakes when insulating a house from a bar

Insulation of a timber house from the inside is often carried out with errors, after which the material does not fulfill the task assigned to it.

The following typical deviations from the rules are common:

Lack of control over the condition of the walls. Over time, traces of various types of damage remain on the wood. Before the start of insulation, after which there will be no access to the surface of the walls, it is necessary to perform all of the above measures. Only then proceed to the next step.
Inattentive attitude to the caulking of the walls. Perhaps, thanks to a couple of defects in this part, the house began to blow through. After correcting the problems associated with this item, the home becomes much warmer.
Insulation of the log cabin from the inside. If it is possible to carry out work outside, they should be done that way.
Wrong choice of thermal insulation material. For wood, mineral wool, glass wool and polystyrene foam of any kind are ideal.
Improper storage of materials. Thermal insulation must be dry. Only then the compositions perform the function completely.
Wrong choice of materials. Rigid heaters are used for vertical surfaces, soft analogs are used for floors and ceilings.

In addition to these errors, there is an incorrect choice of the thickness of the insulation. For a log house in central Russia, a couple of layers of materials 50 mm thick are enough, which are stacked one on top of the other. The above material will help you understand how to properly insulate a house from a bar.

How warm can a log house be? Wood is quite rightly considered a warm material that provides good protection from the cold. In fact, wood is about five times warmer than brick, foam concrete - 2-3 times. But what happens in practice and how to make the house really warm?

Heat engineering issues

In order for the house to be warm, it is necessary that its walls and other enclosing structures have a certain resistance to heat transfer. In accordance with SNiP 23-02-2003, the resistance to heat transfer of the external walls of residential premises is determined depending on the location.

For example, in the Moscow region, according to new standards, this figure should not be less than 3.13 K m 2 /W. A 150 mm thick wall made of pine timber has a thermal resistance of about 1.25. With a thickness of 200 mm - approximately 1.6 K m 2 / W. In any case, the heat-shielding qualities of a timber wall do not reach modern requirements, although they are quite within the standards in force for buildings built before 2000.

From this we can conclude that in order for a house made of logs to meet modern ideas about minimum energy efficiency, it is necessary to insulate it, and for this there are various materials.

How to insulate a house from a bar?

Before starting work on the insulation of walls from a bar, you need to understand what happens in the thickness of the wall, how it works for heat saving.

In addition to the temperature difference on the inner and outer surfaces of the wall, one must not forget about the difference in humidity. Inside the air humidity is always higher than outside. Steam penetrates into the pores of the wood and moves in the direction of lower partial pressure - to the outer surface.

The most effective way of insulation is external thermal insulation. With this method, the wall always remains warm and is not affected by frost destruction. But it is very important that the insulation is sufficiently permeable to steam. The high humidity of the walls can quickly render a wooden house unusable, and create a very unpleasant, pathogenic microclimate inside.

Among modern heat-insulating materials, mineral wool is the best vapor-permeable material. For comparison, we can bring the vapor permeability of wood and various heaters.

Pine across the fibers - 0.06 mg / (m h Pa).
Styrofoam (expanded polystyrene) - 0.05 mg / (m h Pa).
EPPS - 0.013 mg / (m h Pa).
Mineral wool - 0.5 mg / (m h Pa).

From the data presented, it is clear that best material mineral wool is used to insulate a house from a bar on the outside. The advantage of vapor permeability is so great that it outweighs not the lowest cost of mineral wool.

The best conditions for moisture removal are created by a ventilated facade, in which an air gap of 20-50 mm thick remains between the insulation and the outer cladding. It should have air inlet at the bottom and outlet at the top. In this case, a constant air flow is created in the gap, which prevents moisture from accumulating.

To prevent transverse diffusion of air into the insulation, it is closed with a windproof membrane, which does not prevent steam from escaping, but increases the efficiency of thermal insulation. For external cladding, you can use vinyl siding, blockhouse or other suitable material.

Warming step by step

How to insulate a house from a bar: it is possible to cover a new bar house with thermal insulation only after it has completely shrunk. In any case, the insulation of walls from a bar must begin with surface preparation. It is necessary to remove the moss, clean the areas damaged by rot or mold, treat the walls with an antiseptic and caulk the cracks.

The next step is the installation of the crate. It can be made from wooden bars of a suitable section, or from metal wall profiles for drywall. Profiles are installed vertically, every 40 - 50 cm.

First you need to fix the base profile, limiting hinged facade from below. Then brackets are attached to the wall with a step along the profiles of the crate of no more than 80 cm.

After that, thermal insulation slabs are laid on the wall, starting from the base. The plates of the brackets pass through the plates through the slots made in them. Then, in the same way, a windproof membrane is laid on the slabs. On top of the membrane, you need to install umbrella fasteners that will fix the insulation. It is important that the length of the brackets allows you to install the crate with the necessary clearance between the insulation and the cladding.

A crate is mounted on the insulated wall. The profiles are placed on the base profile, set vertically and fastened to the brackets with self-tapping screws or detachable rivets. In this case, not only the vertical of each profile is controlled, but also their alignment in a common plane. Everywhere you need to use only galvanized fasteners.

After installing the crate, the cladding is mounted. It is important that the ventilation gap remains open at the bottom and top, and also that it does not form dead zones under window sills. In addition, it is very important that all kinds of folds or irregularities of the insulation do not block the vertical air flow.

Calculation of the thickness of the insulation

When calculating the thickness of the insulation, it is necessary to take into account the thermal resistance of the wall from the timber in order to bring the total resistance of the wall to the required value. It is better to take the thickness with a margin in order to compensate for the influence of cold bridges and the possible deterioration of thermal insulation qualities at high humidity.

Mineral wool Hotrock

So how to insulate a log house from the outside. Mineral wool Hotrock is European-class basalt thermal insulation. The range includes boards of different densities, designed for insulation of a wide variety of structures, including ventilated facades. Depending on the features of a particular object, you can choose plates with a density of 35 to 90 kg / m 3. The thermal conductivity of all slabs in the dry state fluctuates around 0.035 - 0.038 W / m K. A 50 mm thick slab is equivalent in thermal resistance to a 150 mm thick pine beam.

Basalt wool is completely non-combustible, does not retain moisture, is not damaged by rodents and insects, fungi and mold do not develop in it. By the sum of its qualities, it is recognized as the best material for wall insulation.

It is possible to insulate the walls of a house from a bar both from the outside and from the inside. Internal insulation need to produce extremely carefully and observe all the nuances of the technological process.

Main disadvantage insulation of the house from the inside is an excess of moisture, which forms condensate, which is bad for the microclimate in the house.

But if the insulation of internal walls is a necessary measure, then the consequences of this type of insulation can be read in the article "".

Most often, insulation is carried out outside. When installing insulation on wooden walls Special attention ventilation must be provided. Wooden walls must "breathe". So if they have smooth surface, then ventilation is necessary in this case. When insulating a house from round logs, this procedure is not mandatory.

For wooden walls, it is desirable to select breathable insulation, for the installation of which the "ventilated facade" method is often used.

It is based on the creation of a frame structure on the wall, inside which a heater is placed. Between it and the cladding panels remains layer of air, which draws steam from the heater that enters it from the room.

The facing layer with this method of insulation is often vinyl or acrylic siding. This is a modern building material for wall decoration. It is easy to install, affordable and looks aesthetically pleasing. Siding easily tolerates the effects of precipitation, washes well and retains its original appearance for many years.

Warming with mineral wool

Mineral wool- it is fibrous thermal insulation material with high soundproofing and fireproof characteristics. does not burn, but only melts under the influence of high temperatures, while not releasing harmful substances into the atmosphere.

Important: mineral wool is a vapor-permeable "breathable" insulation and is most often used to insulate wooden houses.

Mineral wool is an environmentally friendly material, but when installing it, you must definitely use overalls for protection from inhaling its dust. Of the minuses, one can also single out the high moisture absorption of mineral wool, and the settlement of rodents in it.

Stages of insulation of external walls with mineral wool:

Cleaning the wall from the old coating, dirt and mold.
Treatment antiseptic formulations and priming.
Dismantling from the wall of gutters, lighting fixtures and other interfering elements.
Repair damage to the wall with tow or sealant.
Installation of the crate frame. The frame for mineral wool slabs is made of bars with a section of 45x45 mm, the bars are mounted in increments of 60 cm.
Laying vapor barrier film. The film protects the mineral wool from the penetration of moisture into it, since after it enters the insulation begins to lose its thermal insulation properties.

Important: on the smooth walls at home from a bar it is allowed to mount insulation without laying a membrane film.

Laying of mineral wool slabs. It is necessary to lay the plates without gaps, fill the voids with scraps of mineral wool.
Attaching a waterproofing film to the crate on a stapler. This film must also be vapor-permeable so that moisture is removed from the insulation to the outside. Places for fastening the film with dowels to ensure better waterproofing It is recommended to glue with metallic tape.
Installation of crates for siding from a bar.
Panel fastening.

Layers of insulation for the walls of the house with mineral wool:

A layer of primer and antiseptic.
Crate.
Vapor barrier film.
Minvat (between the bars of the crate).
Windproof waterproofing film.
Sheathing for siding.
Siding panels.

Insulation with expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene (PPS) is a vapor-tight material, which consists of 98% air contained in thin shells of polystyrene.

Holds heat well and is one of the the most sought after heaters, along with mineral wool. This insulation almost does not absorb moisture and has low coefficients of vapor permeability and thermal conductivity. It is inexpensive and easy to install.

Minuses: The material is flammable and emits harmful substances when burned.

When insulating a house from PPS timber, the “wet facade” method is most often used, but the “ventilated facade” method with siding lining can also be used. Wet facade method is based on the use of compounds and solutions diluted with water for insulation - adhesives and plasters.

PPS insulation technology includes several stages. At the first stage, the walls are cleaned of dirt and old coatings, then they are treated with a primer layer. After it dries, you can proceed with the installation of plates.

For this use special glue or dilute the dry mix. Glue is applied to the PPS sheets and mounted to the wall. After the glue dries, the sheets are additionally fixed with plastic dowels with an umbrella cap.

Insulation layers for outdoor work:

Vapor barrier film.
adhesive layer.
Insulation layer (PPS).
Reinforcing mesh.
Layer of plaster.
Decorative finish.

Insulation with windproof plates Izoplat

Isoplat- This is a Scandinavian windproof plate. Insulation is an environmentally friendly natural material.

It is made from softwood fibers. without adding adhesives and other chemical binders. It is produced in the form of sheets 270 by 120 cm with a thickness of 0.8 to 2.5 cm.

The layered structure provides the material with durability and strength. Plates Isoplat can "breathe", drawing in excess moisture from the room and giving it back when the air dries from the operation of heating devices. Therefore, when insulating with Isoplat, there is no need for vapor and waterproofing of walls.

Distinctive feature of the material- one side of the sheet has a smooth surface designed for fine finishing.

Lack of material is the lack of moisture protection of Isoplat plates from the ends. Therefore, after attaching several plates to the wall, their joints must be immediately sealed with mounting foam. Excess foam must be cut off the next day.

Isoplat sheets for insulation of external walls can be mounted either on the frame (with rounded logs of the house), or glued directly to flat surface walls. In 1 case there is no special need for leveling the walls.

Frame for slabs it is made of wooden beams with a section of 45x45 mm in increments of 60 cm. Installation of the beams must be controlled building level so that all frame elements are in the same plane. This will make it easier later finishing walls.

With frameless technology sheets of Isoplat are attached to the base with nails or self-tapping screws. It is better to use self-tapping screws, as when hammering nails, the material can be damaged.

After sheathing the walls with insulation, you can start finishing. First, you will need to putty the joints between the plates with reinforcing tape.

You need them first work with sandpaper to a depth of 0.2-0.3 cm and a width of half a centimeter. Next, putty is applied to the treated joints, a reinforcing tape is placed on it in the longitudinal direction, and smoothed with a spatula. In conclusion, you need to remove all excess mixture.

A day later, after the putty has dried at the joints, its continuous layer can be applied to the slabs. After complete drying, the coating needs to be sanded, remove construction dust from it and prime water-based paint. It will become a white base for light painting, and dark color insulation through it will not be visible.

In addition to painting on Isoplata plates, you can mount the system "ventilated facade" or apply decorative plaster to the surface of the plates.

Izoplatom insulation layers for house walls:

Wooden crate (with round logs).
Insulation (placed on the bars of the crate or directly on the walls).
Putty layer.
Primer.
Finishing coating (paint layer or crate and siding panels).

Vapor barriers for timber walls

When warming the outer walls of the house from a bar of mineral wool or PPS under a layer of insulation must be fixed with a vapor-permeable film. When insulating with Isoplat, the film does not need to be laid.

The main function of the vapor barrier- protect the insulation and do not let steam into it. After all, moisture that has entered the insulation prevents it from performing its heat-saving functions, which can lead to the destruction of wooden structures.

Attach vapor barrier film it is possible both in the vertical direction and in the horizontal direction, from the inside of the thermal insulation structure (between the wall and the insulation layer).

The film is attached to galvanized nails either using construction stapler. It is positioned in such a way that the vapor-permeable side is adjacent to the wall of the building, and the smooth side is adjacent to the insulation layer.

Important: the seams of the vapor barrier membrane must be absolutely tight, the film must be solid, otherwise water vapor will move, and moisture will accumulate inside the structure of the house from the timber.

Materials for warming a log house from the outside

To insulate the external walls of a log house, you will need the following: tools:

hammer;
level;
screwdriver;
construction stapler;
foam gun;
paint knife.

materials necessary for work:

PPS sheets;
mineral wool;
Isoplat plates;
wooden bars;
vapor barrier film;
waterproofing film;
reinforcing mesh;
primer;
mounting foam;
glue;
nails;
self-tapping screws;
staples for a construction stapler.

In conclusion, we can say that the insulation of the walls of a timber house is important process to save heat in the house, since up to 30% of it leaves through non-insulated walls. In the presence of necessary tools and materials, insulation of a dwelling from a bar can be carried out independently.

But need to remember that maximum heat savings can be achieved only when complex insulation wooden house - its roof, walls, ceiling and floor.

See the video for a master class on warming a log house outside with mineral wool for siding: