The better to insulate the walls of a frame house. Instructions for insulating the walls of a frame house

Frame houses are distinguished not only by practicality, but also by attractive external indicators. This is an ideal option for those who want to acquire inexpensive, but comfortable housing. Today we're talking about insulation. frame house.

Do-it-yourself warming of a frame house

Design features

There are two main ways to build frame buildings:

1. frame-panel (buildings are assembled directly at the factory with ready-made elements);
2. frame-frame (all elements are prepared and assembled at the construction site).

In the section, the wall of the frame house is a multi-layer cake (this can be seen in the above image). It is also worth noting that the frames themselves can be of two types:

1. wooden;
2. metal.

For a long time, wood was the main building material, and it is not surprising - it is cheap, durable, weighs little, it is easy to work with and it has excellent thermal conductivity. Metal structures are erected from perforated steel profiles, mostly galvanized (this extends the service life to one hundred years).

Now - directly to the process of warming the frame house!

Stage one. The choice of material for the insulation of a frame house

After the supporting structure is ready, you need to start thermal insulation, and here, of course, there are a lot of questions. And the main one is the choice of a suitable material. There are quite a few of them, but the most popular are expanded polystyrene, basalt, eco- and glass wool, extruded polystyrene foam, materials that are sprayed or poured. It would seem that the choice is wide enough, but not all of the described heaters are suitable for frame building.

For example, polystyrene foam with polystyrene will not work because if they are tightly laid in the interframe voids, then the structure itself will increase in volume or dry out in the future due to the natural properties of the tree, which causes cracks to form between the thermal insulator and the frame. It is quite obvious that thermal energy will escape through these cracks, and the insulation material itself will no longer be effective. Therefore, a thermal insulator suitable for us must be elastic: even if the shape of the frame changes, there will still be no gaps, since the vacated space will be filled with this material.

Now let's get down to specifics. Consider all the remaining materials, and you yourself will decide which one is more suitable (for price, quality, etc.).

Option number 1. Basalt wool for insulation of a frame house

Perhaps one of the most popular insulating materials. It has excellent noise and thermal insulation properties and is produced by melting mountain basalt. For this reason, the material is sometimes called stone wool.

Note! The temperature that it can withstand is +1000 C, so this is a real fireproof insulation.

The disadvantage of the material is that it absorbs moisture, due to which its main properties deteriorate over time. Therefore, when insulating a frame house, it is necessary to protect basalt wool with vapor and waterproofing materials. We also note that for the thermal insulation of walls it is necessary to use the material that is produced in the plates. It is desirable that it has a special marking indicating that it is for walls, otherwise, after a couple of years, the cotton wool will sit down and cracks will form in the wall (namely, in its upper part), through which it will penetrate cold air.

Option number 2. Ecowool

A modern material made from cellulose. It differs from the previous version not only in appearance, but also in installation technology. For insulation with ecowool, a special machine is needed to mix the material with water droplets; then all this mixture is driven into the interframe space.

Water droplets are here for a reason - they stick together ecowool patches, thus forming a monolithic thermal insulator around the entire perimeter of the building. Therefore, there can be no cold bridges in such walls. Although it is possible to install ecowool without the use of special equipment, that is, dry. In this case, it is simply poured between the layers of walls and carefully rammed.

Ecowool is immune to high humidity emanating from the room, so no vapor barrier is needed in this case. The only drawback of the material is the high cost (not only it, but also installation work).

Option number 3. glass wool

Another very popular material that can be used in a frame house. It differs from basalt wool in that it is made from molten glass. It is characterized by excellent thermal insulation properties, fire safety and the fact that no toxic substances are released when exposed to fire.

Note! Glass wool is often produced in rolls. You should pay attention to the fact that it must have markings for the walls (this is necessary for a frame-type house).

Option number 4. Loose insulation

These include sawdust, expanded clay, slag and the like. At one time, this technology was a great success, since it was quite difficult to get good insulation material. But today bulk materials are practically not used. Everything is explained quite simply: their common drawback is that over time they shrink, and the thermal insulation properties are very doubtful.

Option number 5. glassine

Glassine is thick paper treated with bitumen. The material is often used in construction to protect against wind and moisture, although in reality it is not necessary to do this - the material does not allow moisture that comes from the room to pass through, and it accumulates in the frame itself.

Note! We do not consider spraying with polyurethane foam, although it is very effective and can be applied to almost any surface. Firstly, he is afraid of direct sunlight, which reduces its service life by half. Secondly, its application requires special equipment, and this pleasure is not cheap. We are talking about the insulation of a frame house, which in itself implies minimizing costs.

Video - How to insulate a house

Stage two. Preparatory activities

First, a number of important points should be clarified, without which the thermal insulation of a frame building can easily turn into a waste of money. First, we note that it is necessary to think not only about the walls, since both the ceiling and the floor can also let in cold air! In addition, the insulation material should be qualitatively protected from moisture, using internal / external waterproofing for this. Finally, when performing installation work, it is necessary to leave small ventilation gaps between the walls and the insulation itself.

Before proceeding to installation work, thoroughly clean all work surfaces from dirt and dust. If protruding screws or nails are found, remove them. And if there are gaps between the frame elements of the building, then blow them with mounting foam. Dry all damp areas (if any) with a building hair dryer.

Note! If before this outside surface walls was thermally insulated using a waterproofing material, then its re-installation inside the building is no longer required, otherwise excess moisture will accumulate in the structure and, as a result, it will quickly collapse. Below is an instruction exclusively for internal insulation.

Stage three. waterproofing layer

Immediately make a reservation that the installation technology for all materials is approximately the same. First, measure all the walls of the frame, and then, in accordance with the calculations, cut the strips of the material that was chosen for waterproofing. Fasten the material to the posts using a mounting stapler so that the frame is completely sheathed.

Stage four. Installing a vapor barrier

Even if moisture-resistant materials are used for insulation, vapor barrier must still be performed. At first glance, these are unnecessary expenses, without which it is quite possible to do without. But the fact is that inside the frame there will be not only a heater, but also other elements (for example, the same tree), which still need protection from steam penetrating the walls from the room.

Scheme of laying a layer of vapor barrier when insulating a frame house

As a vapor barrier, both a special film and foamed polyethylene can be used. Fasten the selected material to the frame racks close to the thermal insulator using a mounting stapler. Sometimes insulation blocks are simply wrapped with this material, but in reality this is not necessary - as we have just noted, protection must be provided for all frame elements without exception.

The material is laid with an overlap of at least 10 centimeters, and all joints are carefully sealed with high-quality double-sided tape. Also, do not forget the fact that the thickness of the vapor barrier material in no way affects that of the insulating material.

Stage five. Insulation installation

If mineral wool is used for thermal insulation, be sure to put on protective equipment before starting work. personal protection- respirator, gloves, goggles, special clothing. If you use foam (and this material, as we said, is not very suitable), then such security measures are not needed. When insulating a frame house, lay the material evenly between the frame posts, not forgetting the ventilation gaps required between the thermal insulator and the sheathing. For cutting mineral wool, you can use scissors or an ordinary knife, but for foam you need electric jigsaw or a hacksaw with small teeth.

Note! Experts assure that it is more efficient to lay the insulation in two layers. So, first the first layer should be 10 centimeters thick, then a wooden crate is stuffed in a horizontal position, on top of which the second layer is laid (its thickness should already be 5 centimeters). Such a little "trick" will help to avoid the formation of cold bridges.

Lay on top of the insulation protective film(if it is necessary, that is, if the outside of the house was not properly insulated). This will help ensure that the material will always be in a dry state, and moisture from the outside will not get in.

Note! For the ventilation gap, which has been mentioned more than once, stuff a wooden crate 3 centimeters thick.

After that, you can begin the installation of OSB-plates and decorative trim.

Stage six. We sew walls in a frame house

The procedure for warming the frame house is almost completed, it remains only to sew up all the walls from the inside. Often, OSB plates are used for this, although you can also use drywall sheets. Although we note that drywall is appropriate only in the case of a sufficiently even frame, otherwise it will take all forms of irregularities. On the contrary, OSB is much tougher, so it can be used to eliminate minor flaws. On top of one of them, start finishing.

Fastening OSB boards to the strapping in the presence of a second floor

Two options for docking plates

About additional insulation

If what is described above is not enough, then you can additionally take care of external insulation (if, of course, it is not already there). If used inside mineral wool, then lay a vapor barrier from the outside, which will protect the material from condensed moisture. By the way, it can be not only a film, but also aluminum foil, although, frankly, this material is not the best.

As a windscreen, you can use the same OSB or plywood. The finish coating can serve as lining, siding or other suitable materials. That's all, good luck with your work and warm winters!

Video - Do-it-yourself warming of a frame house

How to choose a heater for a frame house. Types of heaters, their advantages and disadvantages. Stages of work on the insulation of the structure.

If wooden house chosen for year-round living, it is necessary to choose the right insulation for a frame house. What properties should a frame house insulation have? What is its peculiarity in relation to - thermal conductivity, water absorption and fire safety. How does the shrinkage of the insulation occur and how environmentally friendly it is.

What materials are suitable for insulating a frame structure. What are mineral heaters, ecowool and basalt wool. Why is wind protection and vapor barrier so important?

Rules for the insulation of frame houses. Types of heaters. Features of insulation of frame-panel and metal frames. How does insulation perform for a frame building. Is polyurethane good for use? Stages of work in the insulation of walls, ceilings and roofs.

What properties should a heater for a frame house have

Everyone who is faced with frame construction at some point is forced to think about what kind of insulation is best for a frame house. For acceptance right decision it is necessary to know the properties of the main heat-insulating materials offered by the modern market. In addition, the rules on which their choice is based should be taken into account. After reading this article, you will be able to consciously and competently choose the most suitable insulating material for insulating the walls of a frame house.

Heaters used to insulate the walls of a frame house must have the following properties:

• low thermal conductivity;
• fire safety;
• low water absorption;
• lack of shrinkage;
• environmental friendliness.

Thermal conductivity

The ability of a material to transfer heat reflects the coefficient of thermal conductivity. The lower its value, the less heat passes through this material. At the same time, in winter time the room does not cool down so quickly, and in summer it heats up more slowly. This allows you to achieve savings on cooling and heating. For this reason, when choosing a heater, be sure to take into account the value of the thermal conductivity of the material during operation in specific conditions.

Water absorption

The next important indicator that affects the ability of the insulation to retain heat is its water absorption. It is the ratio of the amount of water absorbed by the insulation to the mass of the insulation itself. This characteristic demonstrates the ability to absorb and retain moisture in the pores in case of direct contact with water.

Due to the fact that wet material conducts heat well, the smaller this value is, the better. This is due to the fact that when wet, the air pores of the insulation are filled with water, which has a greater thermal conductivity than air. In addition, too wet material can simply freeze, turning into ice and completely lose its function.

fire safety

The fire safety of materials means the ability to withstand exposure to high temperatures without breaking the structure and igniting. This parameter is regulated using GOST 30244, GOST 30402 and SNiP 21-01-97, which subdivide them into combustibility groups from G1 to G4, while completely non-combustible substances are designated NG. For frame residential buildings the most preferred heaters belonging to the NG group.

Insulation shrinkage

When choosing a heat insulator for a frame building, it is imperative to take into account such an indicator as the ability to shrink. This value should be minimal, otherwise, during operation, material subsidence will appear at the places where the insulation is laid, which will lead to the appearance of cold bridges and an increase in heat loss.

Environmental friendliness

The basis of the walls of the frame house is a heater. Since the insulating material will surround you everywhere in the frame house, you need to be sure that this is a really high-quality insulation and that it does not emit harmful substances.

September 6, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communication, high tech, computer technology, programming.

The day before yesterday I received an order for the insulation of a frame house. The client took independent construction of this building, however, in the process of work, he decided to immediately adapt a country dwelling for year-round living. He did not know how to properly perform thermal insulation, so he turned to me.

I think that any novice builder can face a similar situation, so today I will tell you how and with what to insulate the facade, floor and attic country cottage built according to frame technology.

Choosing a place for installing thermal insulation

First, I will pay a little attention to where it is better to equip the heat-insulating layer - from the outside or from the inside. I prefer external insulation, however, in order not to be unfounded, I suggest that you familiarize yourself with the table, which outlines the features of the two options mentioned. After studying it, you will be able to make an informed decision on your own.

outdoor	internal
The external insulation scheme provides that the entire insulation pie will be placed on the outside of the dwelling, therefore, during the construction works the interior of the rooms does not suffer.	With internal insulation, it is necessary to dismantle the decorative finishes of the rooms, and after installing the insulation, perform a fine finish from scratch. This increases the time to complete the work and the estimated cost of construction.
With external insulation, the heat-insulating layer simultaneously protects the enclosing structures of the frame house from the effects of destructive external factors: temperature fluctuations, rain and ultraviolet radiation.	Internal insulation shifts the moisture condensation point inside the wall, as a result of which the building envelope is moistened, which significantly reduces its service life.
A wooden wall in direct contact with warm air in a room accumulates thermal energy, and when the outside air temperature drops, it releases it, eliminating the need to use heating devices.	The insulation installed inside does not protect the enclosing structure from frost. The wall is subjected to numerous cycles of freezing and thawing, which lead to the destruction of its internal structure.

In my opinion, internal thermal insulation can be resorted to only when insulating a very old house: the installed insulation material from the inside will avoid dismantling exterior finish which is not always possible for objective reasons.

Yes, and one more thing. I have encountered situations several times where even the correct internal insulation was not effective enough to maintain a comfortable microclimate in the house during the severe winter cold. And I had to install an additional one - outside. So, whatever one may say, external insulation is more reliable.

Well, now let's figure out the better it is to perform thermal insulation of a frame house from the outside.

The choice of thermal insulation material

Given the specifics wooden house, built according to frame technology using sheet facing materials, it is necessary to select a heater taking into account the following requirements:

1. The heat insulator must be environmentally friendly. The insulating layer should not release chemical compounds dangerous to humans into the air, even if it is heated during operation.
2. The material must have fire-fighting properties - they will not ignite under the influence of fire and not contribute to the further spread of the flame. It is also desirable to select a heater that does not emit during a fire a large number smoke, making it difficult to evacuate people.
3. It is better to choose a heater with the lowest coefficient of thermal conductivity, so as not to use a large layer for insulation. The optimal thickness is no more than 100-150 cm (this is the average section of the beam, usually used to construct the frame).
4. Strength and ability to maintain geometric dimensions. The material installed in the gaps of the frame must fill it completely, without shrinking over time.
5. Ease of installation. To simplify the process of building a frame house, you need to buy a heater that is easily installed inside frame walls without the use of complex engineering equipment.

Another factor is the price. Considering the total estimated cost of building a cottage using frame technology, it is necessary to select a heater that will not significantly increase construction costs. However, I would not put the price at the forefront, preferring thermal insulation with optimal technical specifications and performance properties.

In my opinion, the closest to the requirements listed above is basalt insulation - mats based on fibers from minerals of volcanic origin.

This material has many advantages, which I will reflect in the table below:

Characteristic	Description
Low thermal conductivity	The coefficient of thermal conductivity λ of basalt wool is about 0.036 W / (m * K) depending on the density of the material. Thermal engineering calculations show that for central Russia, an energy-efficient house can be built with a layer of wool 10 cm thick.
Incombustibility	Basalt fiber melts at temperatures above 1000 degrees Celsius, so the material not only does not ignite itself, but also serves as a reliable barrier to the spread of fire.
Hygroscopicity	Mineral wool fibers do not absorb water, and the formaldehyde resins used to glue the mats have hydrophobic properties, helping to remove moisture to the outside.
light weight	After installation, the insulation practically does not exert additional load on the building envelope, which is important for a fragile frame house.
Easy to install	Dense mineral mats right size they are simply inserted into the gaps between the beams of the frame, without requiring additional lathing, fittings and the use of "wet" construction processes.

In my opinion, the listed properties are quite enough to persuade you to choose mineral wool. I use TechnoNICOL or Rockwool products for work.

And if you are wondering what is the best way to insulate from the inside, refer to the corresponding article on this blog, which describes in detail the technology you need. Although I can say in advance that mineral wool is so versatile that it can be used to insulate both the house outside and inside.

Tools and materials

In addition to mineral wool (and we decided that it would be basalt fiber), you will need a lot of different materials:

• OSB boards for interior and exterior cladding of the supporting frame of the walls of the dwelling;
• wooden bars 30 by 50 mm for arranging a counter-lattice and a ventilation gap between the insulation layer and the decorative finish;
• hydro- and windproof membrane - a special polymer vapor-permeable film (Juta or Strotex), which prevents the insulation from getting wet and being destroyed by air flow, but does not prevent the removal of accumulated moisture from the heat-insulating layer;
• internal vapor barrier film - in the described case, I will use foil insulation based on foamed polyethylene (for example, penofol) to increase the efficiency of heating devices;
• block house, with the help of which external decorative finishing of frame walls will be performed;
• eurolining, with which I will sheathe the surfaces of the walls from the inside.

I will not dwell on what tools to use. You will understand in the process of further presentation.

Warming process

Now I'm telling you how to insulate a frame house for winter residence. The thermal insulation technology of such a structure consists of several steps, which are presented in the diagram:

Step-by-step instructions for warming a frame house with your own hands are presented below. I must say right away that in my case the frame of the dwelling has already been erected, but the interior lining has not been installed. Therefore, the described insulation technology itself has some nuances.

Step 1 - Preparing the Frame

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the frame of the dwelling for installation inside the heat-insulating material. I do it in this order:

1. I clean wooden parts from dust, debris and dirt. In the future, the frame will be completely hidden facing materials, therefore, pollution can adversely affect the integrity of the structure, the efficiency and duration of operation of the insulation layer. You can clean the wood with a regular brush or vacuum cleaner.

1. I repair damaged parts of the frame. In my case, there were no defective areas, since I insulated new house work in progress. But if you find areas of timber damaged by rot, you need to replace the part before installing the heat-insulating material.

1. I install engineering communications. If a hidden laying of engineering systems is supposed, then it is better to do this before the walls are sewn with decorative material. There are a few features I would like to mention:

• All electrical must be installed in flexible or rigid plastic or metal cable ducts that protect the insulation layer and the building itself from fire in the event of a short circuit.
• During installation water pipes there should be no detachable connections inside the wall, which over time can loosen and leak.

1. I perform antiseptic treatment of the frame. To do this, it is better to use a universal composition (for example, Guard), which prevents the formation of mold and fungus on the supporting frame of the dwelling and gives the tree fire-fighting properties. It is necessary to process wood with two layers of impregnation with intermediate drying.

Step 2 - Interior lining

For the inner cladding, I will use OSB boards and vapor barrier material with a heat-reflecting layer of brushed aluminum foil. The work is done in the following sequence:

1. I sheathe the frame of the house from the inside with OSB sheets. They will serve as a support for leveling the insulating material. A vapor barrier inner layer will be attached to the same surface:
   • Glued fiber sheets must be cut into pieces of the required size according to pre-made drawings.
   • Parts must be made in such sizes that after installation they do not reach the surface of the ceiling, floor and corners. A gap of 2-3 cm thick is needed, through which moisture condensed there will be removed from the surface of the heat-reflecting layer.
   • Sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws to the supporting elements of the frame. The step between adjacent self-tapping screws should not exceed 20 cm.
   • The cladding seams should go in a checkerboard pattern with an offset relative to each other. Their thickness is 2-3 mm, which allow avoiding warping of the surface when changing the dimensions of the base.

1. Installing vapor barrier material. As I said, penofol will play its role - foamed polyethylene (it will become an additional insulation) with glued foil (it reflects infrared rays, increasing heating efficiency):
   • The material should be placed on the OSB sheets with the reflective layer outward, and then fixed to the panels using a construction stapler or wide-head nails.
   • Penofol rolls must be mounted so that each subsequent layer overlaps the previous one at a distance of 10 cm.
   • To seal the seams inside the overlap, a double-sided adhesive tape is placed, which glues adjacent sheets of heat-reflecting material, preventing water vapor from penetrating into the thickness of the enclosing structures and the insulation layer.

1. I install counters. They are necessary for arranging the ventilation gap between the foil and the finish lining. You can orient the parts vertically or horizontally, depending on how you will fix the decorative material (in my case, lining). The slats are fixed to the OSB boards with self-tapping screws directly through the foil foam.

1. I fix the lining on the counter rails. I already once described the technology of wall cladding with clapboard, so I won’t dwell on it in detail. I can only say that it is better to install lamellas on kleimers, thanks to which the change in the size of the eurolining during operation is compensated.

Step 3 - Laying insulation

TechnoNikol Technolight Extra boards are best suited as thermal insulation. On the one hand, they are strong enough to fit tightly between the supporting elements of the frame and stay there without additional fastening. On the other hand, they have a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, therefore, two layers of 5 cm mineral mats are sufficient for insulation.

Another plus is that I advised the client in advance to make the frame of the house with a distance between the supports of 60 cm. This is just the width of the insulation plate. Therefore, pruning is practically not necessary. Thanks to this, expensive material is consumed with maximum efficiency.

1. Installing the first layer of insulation. As I said, the width of the plates exactly corresponds to the distance between the frame bars, so you just need to bend them in the middle and insert them inside the wall. Having straightened, the mineral mat will firmly take its place. Let me draw your attention to a few things:

• It is impossible to fix the mineral mat on the inner OSB board. Otherwise, a self-tapping screw can damage the foam layer, which is laid on the surface on the reverse side.
• Trimming the plates, if necessary, is done with a sharp clerical knife or a saw with fine teeth.
• After installation of all plates, it is necessary to additionally seal the seams between the plates with polyurethane adhesive from a cylinder. It will glue the fibers of adjacent mats, eliminating the formation of cold bridges.

1. Installing the second layer of insulation. It is placed on top of the first one so that the lower and upper seams run up. The rest of the rules are the same as in point 1. Don't forget to fill the joints between the boards with polyurethane foam. Excess of it, after the final solidification, will need to be cut off with a sharp one.

1. I install insulation in structural elements of complex shape. Be sure to insulate all sections of the walls. Of particular difficulty are usually slopes, which serve to strengthen the structure. In this case, you need to cut the mineral mat according to the shape of the recess so that it fits as tightly as possible.

As you can see, the installation of the insulation itself is a simple operation, but it takes a lot of time. However, the process of thermal insulation is not yet over. Outside, the thermal insulation must be reliably protected.

Step 4 - Installation of hydro and wind protection

To protect the insulation from external influences, a special polymer vapor-permeable membrane of increased strength is usually used. Its installation has some features that I want to describe.

The gist is the following:

1. A film is laid on the insulation layer. The material is fixed with staples and a construction stapler to the frame beams. You can use carnations with wide hats:
   • Work should start from the bottom of the wall, gradually moving up.
   • Film sheets must be placed horizontally.
   • Each next canvas should overlap the previous one at a distance of 10 cm.

1. I seal the joints between the individual canvases. For this, adhesive tape is used, which is glued to the joints of the film. At the end of the work, a completely sealed canvas should be obtained, which protects the mineral wool from water penetrating through the outer lining and drafts blowing in the ventilation gap (more on that below).
2. I stuff the slats of the counter-lattice on the polymer membrane. Here, the ventilation gap is simply mandatory, since moisture condensed on the surface of the insulation will be removed through it. The slats are installed horizontally or vertically and are fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws.

1. I fix OSB-plates on the rails. I already described the technology for their installation when I talked about the inner lining of a frame house. Therefore, I will not dwell on this stage in detail.

Step 5 - Finishing

Technology decorative finishes facades of the house depends on the chosen material. In my case, this will be a block house, the individual parts of which must be fixed on OSB boards using self-tapping screws.

If you are going to use e.g. vinyl siding, OSB boards can not be used at all, but the lamellas can be mounted on a profile fixed on a counter-lattice.

Step 6 - Attic floor

To make it comfortable to be in a frame house in winter, it is not enough to insulate the walls, because most of the heat energy loss occurs through the attic floor. Therefore, I will briefly describe how to thermally insulate this surface:

1. Hem the ceiling from below with OSB boards. You already know the scheme, as I described it above. The filing will not experience a large load, therefore it is enough to fix the parts with self-tapping screws with small tolerances at the seams to compensate for the increase in the size of the substrate.
2. Fix penofol. I also described the rules for installing heat-reflecting material when I talked about wall insulation technology.
3. Screw the battens. By the way, they are necessary if you use a vapor barrier with a heat-reflecting layer. It can be replaced with a conventional vapor-permeable membrane. Then the decorative material can be fixed directly on the film, but the total thermal resistance of the walls (R) will decrease, since the walls will not reflect, but absorb infrared rays.
4. Decorate the surface of the ceiling with clapboard. It is mounted on clamps or screws.
5. Install insulation from the attic. Mineral wool is inserted into the gaps between the beams of the attic floor, after which it is covered with a waterproofing film and sewn up sheet material(in my case, OSB boards).

Step 7 - Floors

The last stage of work is the insulation of the floor with your own hands. The technology practically does not differ from the ceiling thermal insulation scheme, with the exception of a few small nuances:

• the vapor barrier film is placed from the side of the living quarters, and the waterproofing is at the bottom;
• as floor covering a tongue-and-groove board is used, which is placed on the counter-lattice;
• if it is not possible to hem the beams from below, the subfloor boards can be placed on the cranial beams, which are screwed to the side surfaces of the beams.

If you have any questions, you can read a separate material on thermal insulation of floors.

Summary

The technology described above tells about the thermal insulation of a wooden dwelling from the outside. About how to insulate a frame house from the inside, from the video that I bring to your attention.

If you are interested in even more information about the construction and insulation of a frame house, ask your questions and express your own opinion in the comments to the material.

Technology frame construction, as already verified by experience, provide high operational parameters of housing. One of the advantages that frame house building enthusiasts do not forget to mention is environmental friendliness. Frame houses are often referred to as healthy housing. We can say that this is so if certain key factors are provided during the construction and insulation of the building:

Environmentally friendly materials

At the heart of frame technologies is wood. You can't argue that this natural material, despite the rapid development of today's most "space" materials and technologies, does not lose its relevance over the centuries, remaining today one of the most popular in housing construction.

Of course, frame technologies do not stand still, and many modern building innovations are actively used in frame housing construction today. Although supporters of "frames" like to emphasize that in them the likelihood of any harmful particles from the materials and chemicals used being released into the air is minimized. And in order for the house to be always supplied clean water, in classic frame buildings, autonomous sources and a well-developed filter system are used.

energy efficiency

Along with mineral wool boards, insulation frame houses often performed with foam boards or extruded polystyrene foam.

It is spoken of in a context that builders of "Canadian houses" are usually proud of. The walls of the "frameworks" really have excellent thermal insulation characteristics, maintaining comfortable conditions for the internal microclimate both in winter frosts and in summer. It is generally accepted, and not without reason, that the owners of frame buildings significantly save not only on heating, but also on ventilation and air conditioning.
An additional touch that the defenders of frame housing construction do not forget to mention is that alternative energy sources more often successfully “fit” into frame houses - for example, solar collectors. During the construction of frame houses, they are also well used, recreated from recycled materials, the so-called. recycling materials. The classic argument in favor of “frame housing construction” was the argument about the optimal use of materials - with frame buildings, the amount of construction waste is minimized.

About how to build warm frame house alone, with your own hands, is quite interesting and vividly described in the next video. Watch, think, discuss. Someone will definitely benefit.

Let's go directly to the issue of warming frame houses.

Wall insulation: thermal insulation materials

Insulation of the walls of frame-type houses is usually performed in the intervals between the racks of the frame. Let's take a closer look at what options for heaters can be that are optimally suited for the walls of a frame house and how exactly to carry out insulation.

I propose in this article to consider such heaters suitable for thermal insulation of frame structures:

• Mineral wool (with a density of 30-50 kg / m3;
• Glass wool (with a density of 17-20 kg / m3);
• Styrofoam (with a density of 25 kg / m3);
• Extruded polystyrene foam (with a density of 20-35 kg / m3);

Please note: We did not consider in the article such types of natural heaters as sawdust, straw, flax, slag and the like, the use of which requires an increase in wall thickness compared to the heaters that we indicated in the list. At the same time, each of the heaters not included in the consideration deserves its own consideration; other articles of our journal are devoted to them.

As for the heaters listed in the list we have reviewed, mineral wool of the density indicated above deserves special recommendations, because. with all other equal parameters, it has a number of advantages that users pay attention to in their reviews:

• Not combustible;
• Turns off the sound;
• It is convenient in work (comparing with EPPS).
• Unlike glass wool, mineral wool of the required density in vertical structures is somewhat more convenient, in any case, it does not crumple and does not settle).

1. Please note: The fact that the authors of this article recommend mineral wool for use does not mean at all that other heaters are not recommended. This is their opinion based on their own observations and research, an attempt to answer the question of which of the heaters is best used to insulate the walls of a frame house.

Important nuances

Any wool (stone, glass wool, mineral wool) should be in slabs. Roll will not work.
The thickness of the insulation (within 100-250 mm) is calculated for a specific area of ​​​​the house, taking into account the climatic zone.
Thermal insulation boards are laid in layers of 50 mm with a mandatory overlap to avoid cold bridges.

Technology

Wall insulation is made between the racks of the frame. If you took mineral wool or glass wool for insulation, they are placed between the uprights. Sheets of Styrofoam or Styrofoam are cut to size and after insertion are foamed with polyurethane foam.

In places of jibs, the insulation is cut to the right sizes and inserted into the space between the jib and the rack. When the jibs are smaller than the rack, a half-meter layer of insulation can be laid on top of the jibs from the outside.

Exterior wall cladding of a frame house

Such a skin is called rough. She has importance. And when we are asked whether it is possible to immediately attach the finishing material directly to the frame racks, we explain that the presence of sheathing, along with all the slopes of the frame, will form its rigid structure, the space of the frame. Both sheathing and lower / upper cuts are required. In the absence of one or the other, the frame will not have the necessary rigidity.

Materials for rough sheathing

Let's talk about the most actively used:

Oriented strand board is considered a reliable, inexpensive material, besides, it has an attractive appearance reminiscent of natural wood.

OSB - oriented strand board.
Oriented strand board, OSB - material in sheets of several layers of wood chips (thin chips), glued with complex chemical resins with the addition of synthetic waxes and boric acid. Wood shavings in the layers are stacked differently. In the outer layers, it is oriented longitudinally. In the internal - transversely.
OSB-1 - used in conditions low humidity(in furniture production, for sheathing in construction, for packaging)
OSB-2 - is used for the manufacture of load-bearing structures in rooms with a dry microclimate.
OSB-3 - used for the manufacture of load-bearing structures in rooms with high humidity.
OSB-4 - is used for the manufacture of various kinds of structures intended for significant mechanical loads in conditions of high humidity.
OSB with one-sided varnishing.
OSB laminated (used for reusable formwork during concrete work, withstands up to 50 cycles.
OSB grooved.



Cement particle board is about twice as dense and heavier than OSB, which makes it difficult to lift it up for floor cladding in the absence of scaffolding and winches

TsSP - Cement particle board.
Cement bonded particle board) - sheet building material of a composite type of wood shavings, Portland cement with the addition of special additives to reduce the harmful effects of wood extracts on cement. DSP is used quite actively in construction, including frame construction, for external and internal wall cladding. Cement particle board competes with its competitors such as chipboard, plywood, flat slate, drywall, gypsum board, OSB. One of the disadvantages of DSP is considered to be low bending strength. But since the material itself exhibits sufficient strength to longitudinal deformation, it is traditionally used to strengthen the frame structure of houses.

• SML - Glass magnesite sheet.

  

  The actual characteristics of the LSU of various manufacturing plants in fact may differ markedly from each other. On ordinary sheets, as a rule, there is no marking, which makes it impossible to distinguish between sheets of different classes and manufacturers. Mandatory marking is available only on panels Premium Standard of Quality.

  This material can also be found in the form of such names as "novolist", "glass-magnesite", "magnesite plates", "stroylist" and simply "magnesite" - so you need to understand that this is all about the same thing. This is a sheet building and finishing material made on the basis of magnesia binder. The composite composition includes caustic magnesite, magnesium chloride, foamed perlite plus fiberglass (as a reinforcing material). Sometimes a non-woven synthetic material is also used. There are Russian manufacturing plants, but mostly they are imported from China (it has long held the lead).
  Suggested thicknesses are 3mm, 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm. The most commonly used sheet format: 1220 x 2440 mm.
  The most popular density is from 750 to 1100 kg/cu.m. Colors - from white to gray-blue.
  Some classes of LSU are successfully used in wet rooms, the material is also used for outdoor work. Differs in the high durability and good adhesion. Glass-magnesite sheet is used for finishing, decorating sheets with acrylic paints.

Please note: All materials listed will require a fine finish. Siding has become popular. Some people are quite happy with just plastering the walls. It is appropriate to put thin layers of foam plastic with a density of 25 kg / m3, 30 mm or extruded polystyrene foam of the same density and thickness under the plaster. Plaster layers can be applied to the mesh without insulation, but it must be borne in mind that in this case the risk of cracking is higher.

Board

Sometimes you can find tips-recommendations to leave the boarding as a fine finish. It must be understood that the board for these purposes must be properly processed. And we must remember that in this case it is necessary to arrange wind and water protection of the wall under the board in a special way.

Important! It is not necessary to sew up the frame with a board without making a preliminary rough OSB lining. If a board is used as a fine finish, it is fixed on top of the OSB. Why is that? The fact is that if the board is nailed directly to the racks of the frame, without OSB, the board can be unscrewed, and such a danger will occur at least twice a year during the off-season. And our task is to give our frame spatial rigidity, and not subject it to senseless additional loads in the form of unpredictable consequences from the behavior of the skin. Based on this, we recommend boarding only according to OSB.

In this part, we will describe in detail the process of OSB sheathing (as the most versatile and most commonly used option). In addition, compared to all of the above options, OSB boards have a noticeably greater moisture resistance. OSB sheets are larger in area, which will make it possible to make fewer joints.

For sheathing, OSB boards with a thickness of 10-12 mm are usually taken.
OSB fastening to racks, upper and lower trim, fastener step.

OSB is attached to the racks, the joint runs in the middle of the rack.

bottom harness OSB sheets must cover entirely. According to the upper trim, the option can be selected depending on whether the house has one or two floors.

If a one-story house is being built, the upper trim is completely covered, and the edges of the OSB boards are flush with the edge of the trim.
If the house is two-story, it would be better to arrange the sheets in such a way that they also go to the racks of the 2nd floor and the racks of the 1st, and let the upper trim overlap approximately in the middle of the sheet. This is not a prerequisite, but it is recommended, as it will give the entire frame structure additional rigidity.

Mounting method in the case of a two-story house

The first video gives tips on how to insulate a frame house so that it remains "breathable".

The following video, using a specific example, talks about one of the main stages in the construction of a frame house - its insulation. Let us consider in detail what the wall and floor insulation pie consists of. You will learn how to competently insulate the under-roof space. Get many more useful tips and instructions from a specialist.

The following video provides instructions on how to properly insulate a frame house using TechnoNIKOL mineral wool:

In the following video instruction, experts give recommendations on how best to insulate the walls of a frame house using insulation URSA TERRA, which reliably protects the walls of the house from any bad weather and cold weather. The video shows how to properly install URSA TERRA to avoid heat loss. An important point insulation is the installation of vapor barrier and wind protection. For this purpose, URSA SECO films and membranes were chosen, which are optimally combined with URSA thermal insulation.

Steam and waterproofing and wind protection of the walls of a frame house

These functions for the outer walls of a frame house are performed by a special superdiffusion membrane with a vapor permeability of 800 g/sq. m per day or more.

Attention: You can find recommendations saying that it is not necessary to use a membrane, but you can take waterproofing films or polyethylene instead. Our experts oppose the use of film or polyethylene as wind and waterproofing in such structures. Any film has low vapor permeability (up to 40 g/sq.m per day) compared to membranes. This means that the film simply cannot cope with the removal of moisture from the insulation. And this is absolutely necessary, because. in the insulation - the dew point (see. Dew point. How to determine the dew point in the wall at various types insulation), and this is its legal location in this design. Moisture must be allowed to vent. A membrane with the above vapor permeability copes with this task.

The placement of the superdiffusion membrane in the wall structure depends on what the rough lining and fine finish are.

Insulation of the outer walls of a frame house in a section

Important aspects of wall vapor barrier

The vapor barrier of the frame structure is carried out with a vapor barrier film. It is attached to the racks of the frame close to the insulation from the inside of the room using a construction stapler. The joints are overlapped with an allowance of 10-15 cm.

If you take polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene as a heater, vapor barrier is also needed. These heaters themselves do not gain moisture, but in addition to them, there are wooden elements frame, and they need to be protected from vapors from inside the room.

All joints of the vapor barrier must be carefully glued with special double-sided tape.

Vapor barrier can be made with foil foamed polyethylene, this material is convenient because it does not affect the thickness of the base thermal insulation of the wall.

Internal lining of walls

For internal lining of the walls of a frame house, you can use, for example, popular drywall or the same OSB. The latter, according to many experts, is preferable. The fact is that if sheets of drywall are fixed on the racks of the frame from the inside, the racks, and they are by no means perfectly even, take on all the unevenness of the skin. As a result, drywall will need more leveling layers. As for OSB, its plates are more rigid, they will better smooth out bumps.

Attention: Internal stitching is often performed by popular MDF panels. If the panels are not laminated, they should be used carefully, they are afraid of moisture. And certainly they are not recommended for use in rooms such as kitchens, bathrooms, bathrooms.

On OSB or drywall, a fine finish is performed. Materials like lining are also mounted on OSB sheathing, you should not do this directly to the racks, without sheathing.

Gathered in a fairly short time, using the minimum labor resources. However, with all its advantages, it still has one small drawback. If you do not make high-quality insulation of walls and roofs, it will be possible to use it only in the summer, since it will not be suitable for year-round operation in our climate.

Insulation of a frame house - types of materials

The modern market offers a huge selection building materials for warming frame houses. Based on the foregoing, it is very important that the insulation retains its functionality for more than a dozen years, for this it is necessary to use only high-quality material.

Currently thermal insulation materials conditionally divided into two categories - organic and synthetic.

1. The former include natural materials of natural origin (sawdust and shavings, compressed straw, etc.).
2. The second category includes types of insulation obtained by a high-tech production method, using various chemical components and compositions for this, namely: mineral wool, foam plastic, basaltin, and others.

The excellent thermal insulation properties of synthetic materials make them the undisputed winners in this group. They boast features such as:

• good moisture resistance;
• low thermal conductivity and flammability level;
• no shrinkage and long service life;
• ease of use;
• safety for a person.

Home insulation is the most popular and well-established method. The material has an excellent sound absorption rate, retains heat well, and also has a high environmental friendliness class.

Wall insulation inside and out

There is no particular difference from where to start work on the insulation of a frame house, from the inside or outside. It's more convenient for someone here. For example, it is a little easier to install insulation from the street, but there is a risk that it may start to rain and then the work will have to be curtailed for a while.

Standard mineral wool insulation has a width of 600 mm. Therefore, when building a frame, this moment must be taken into account. In order for the material to fit snugly against the uprights, perfect size the step between them is 580-590 mm. Such a distance will not allow the insulation to slide down over time, as it will be tightly clamped.

According to the established norms, the thickness of insulation for a structure in the central region of Russia is 150 mm. Therefore, it would be advisable to use plates with a thickness of 100 and 50 mm.

Thus, instead of three plates, two will be enough in the design, thereby significantly reducing labor costs. Also material in 100 mm. less prone to deflection and therefore more securely attached to the structure.

Fastening vapor barrier and OSB boards

• In order to prevent moisture from entering the insulation, it must be well protected from it. To do this, from the inside, the wooden walls of the frame must be covered with a vapor barrier film. Using a conventional stapler, roll out the roll in horizontal stripes and fasten it with an overlap along 5 cm. to vertical posts. Make sure that the film is firmly attached to the surface everywhere;
• Next, we need to close the vapor barrier film with OSB boards, which will be the base under interior decoration. Using ordinary wood screws and a screwdriver, we fasten the panels one by one, if necessary, cutting them with an electric jigsaw.

Insulation installation

Consider, as an example, the insulation of the frame with slabs based on mineral (stone) wool. The material is quite elastic, therefore, for its fixation, an additional method of fastening is not required, it is enough just to insert it between the uprights. The plates must be tightly held there due to the difference in size.

Installation of insulation is carried out in two layers, using a checkerboard pattern. The second should overlap the butt joints of the first, exactly in the middle. This method avoids the appearance of so-called "cold bridges", which contribute to the appearance of condensate and dampness on the inner surface. finishing which can lead to mold and mildew.

After all the slabs have been installed, they will need to be protected from rain and strong winds. For this, by analogy with interior walls, external ones are sheathed in the same way.

The material used is a hydro-windproof membrane, it will reliably protect the walls from drafts and raindrops getting inside. To securely connect the membrane, fix it to the posts with a counter-batten.

Wall cladding outside

Depending on the material you choose for finishing, you need to properly prepare the base for it. For ordinary siding or a block house, moisture-resistant OSB boards are attached to the counter-crate, to which guide bars are nailed.

It is very popular among the population, which accurately imitates the structure of real wood.

Sectional diagram of insulation

In case the walls are sheathed with some other finishing material(facade tiles, artificial or natural stone etc.), to nail to OSB boards guide bars are unnecessary, the walls for finishing are left in this form.

Roof insulation

• Not many people know that roof insulation plays a very important role in creating a favorable microclimate in the house. High-quality insulation of this element reduces the heat loss of the house by 25-30 % Therefore, it is very important to approach this issue with all responsibility.

One of the most common ways to insulate a roof is to lay the insulation between, and in order for the insulation to last for a long time, the roofing pie must have a ventilation gap.

The essence of the process of a frame house with mineral wool is quite simple and is as follows:

1. From the outside of the roof, a diffusion membrane is nailed to the upper base of the rafters, which is fixed with a counter-batten;
2. Further from the inside in two layers (each 100 mm.), using the same checkerboard pattern, insulation boards are laid. Pay special attention to the places of gables and the ridge part of the roof;
3. The insulation is necessarily closed with a vapor barrier film, which is fastened with horizontal stripes from the bottom up with an overlap 5 cm.;
4. The final stage is the filing of the ceiling with a finishing finishing material (lining, plywood, block house, drywall, etc.)

Floor insulation

Another place where there is a leak 15-20% so precious in our time of warmth. Of course, you can fork out and install a system in the house, especially since in our time there is plenty for this.

However, why not try to warm it up first. After all, the floor is the place where a lot of interesting things happen.

You can’t even count how many kilometers your baby crawls along it, and then it will take its first steps in life on it. The time spent on yoga and reading interesting books, in addition to benefits, will also bring pleasure.

The sequence of floor insulation in a frame house:

• A layer of waterproofing film is rolled onto the subfloor. All joints are glued with reinforcing tape;
• Between the lag for the floor, a heater is laid (thickness not less than 200 mm.). To eliminate the formation of a gap, the width of the insulation must exceed the distance between the lags by 1-2 cm;

• Overlap insulation on top 5-10 cm. covered with a vapor barrier;
• Further, depending on the floor covering, the floor is covered with plywood sheets, or a finishing board is placed.

Conclusion

Today there are many different modern materials, which are suitable for warming houses built using frame technology. However, numerous positive reviews owners show that it makes no sense to overpay for expensive materials in this case. With the protection of the house from the cold, mineral wool, which is quite affordable, does an excellent job.

Therefore, we can safely conclude that mineral wool is reliable, inexpensive and quite effective material for warming a frame house. Due to its environmental friendliness and fire safety, insulation can be used both inside and outside the house, and nothing else is needed.