Self-construction of walls from drywall. Drywall walls: pros and cons Build a wall in a drywall apartment

23.06.2020

Our topic today is a plasterboard interior wall. We will figure out how to build a frame for a plasterboard partition, how to sheathe it, how to install window and door blocks in the frame, how to make an arch arch and how to ensure maximum sound insulation of the wall. Let's get started.

How to install an interior plasterboard wall that is strong enough and provides acceptable sound insulation? Obviously, you need to start with the installation of the frame (see Mounting the frame under drywall on the wall with your own hands). For its construction, the author strongly advises not to use a bar, but a galvanized profile for the installation of gypsum boards.

There are several reasons:

Profiles have perfect geometry, but the bars often cannot boast of it;
Wood warps with fluctuations in humidity. Galvanized steel carries them without deformation;

The tree suffers from rot and insect activity, unlike its competitor. Antiseptic impregnation partly solves the problem, but it is partly - with consistently high humidity (typical, for example, for the operating conditions of the wall that limits the bathroom), the wood can still rot.

For the construction of the frame, we need profiles of two types:

Image	Description
	Rack profile CW with a width of 50 mm and a thickness of 50-100 mm. The thickness is selected depending on the requirements for the rigidity of the partition and on whether it is necessary to lay any large-section communications in its frame (sewerage, ventilation ducts, etc.). The length of the profile must be equal to or greater than the height of the ceiling, and the number of racks is selected for a step between them of 60 centimeters.
	The guide profile UW is responsible for fastening the frame to adjacent structures. Its thickness corresponds to the thickness of the uprights, with a fixed height of the side walls of 40 mm. The total length of all guide profiles must be at least equal to the perimeter of the future wall.

In addition to profiles, purchases will include:

Damper tape with a width corresponding to the width of the guides. Its task is to reduce the number of acoustic vibrations transmitted to capital structures from the partition frame;

Tip: instead of a damper tape, you can use rolled polyethylene foam cut into strips, which is used as a heater and a substrate for laminate and parquet.

Self-tapping screws for metal for connecting rails with racks. Length - 9 mm;
Dowel-screws for mounting rails.

Attention! V wooden house the guides are fastened with ordinary self-tapping screws with a length of at least 40 mm.

The frame is mounted in the following order:

We mark the line of the partition on the floor, then with the help of a plumb line and a long ruler or profile we transfer the markings to the ceiling and walls;
We fasten the guides along the marking by placing a damper tape under the profile. Fastening step - no more than half a meter. To cut the profile, use only metal scissors: abrasive cutting with a grinder is contraindicated in thin galvanized metal, since its heating leads to zinc burnout and rust in the future;
We mark the positions of the racks. Step - exactly 60 cm along the axes of the rack profiles. In this case, the seams between adjacent sheathing sheets will fall in the middle of the uprights;

Recall: the standard width of a wall drywall sheet is 120 cm.

We cut to height and arrange the racks. We fasten each of them to the guides with metal screws on both sides. The frame is ready.

Tip: if the height of the wall is greater than the length of the sheet, it is advisable to install jumpers between the posts from the same CW profile at the level of the seam between the main and additional sheets. They will exclude the appearance of cracks under deforming loads.

Lesson 2: sheathing

Wall cladding with a thickness of 12.5 mm is used for covering the partition. Thinner ceiling plasterboard does not have sufficient strength, and may not survive an accidental elbow strike or carried furniture. Moreover, in rooms with high traffic (hallways, kitchens, corridors), the frame is sheathed in two layers on each side.

GKL can be ordinary (white) or moisture resistant (blue-green). The first is used in living rooms, and the second - in rooms with high humidity(kitchens, bathrooms and toilets).

Please note: drywall is purchased with a margin of 10-15% for trimming.

In addition to the plasterboard, to turn the frame into a wall ready for finishing, you will need:

Drywall screws or, in their absence, on wood. They differ only in the thread pitch: for wood fasteners, it is somewhat larger. Length - 25 mm (40 mm for fastening the second layer with a two-layer sheathing);

Reinforcement for seams- serpyanka (adhesive fiberglass mesh 5-8 cm wide);
Gypsum universal or finishing putty. Of the tested gypsum mixtures, the author liked the Turkish ABS Saten the most: it does not give lumps when mixed, and lives after kneading for at least 45 minutes.

Moreover, ABS that has begun to set can be diluted with water and continued to be used for another 15-20 minutes.

Let's break the entire sequence of work on sheathing and pre-finishing the wall into several technological operations and describe each of them in detail.

GKL cutting

In straight lines, drywall is usually not sawn off, but broken at the edge of any elevation, having previously been cut along the ruler by about a quarter of the thickness. After that, it remains only to cut through the cardboard shell from the back.

If the edge turned out to be slightly uneven - it does not matter:

Protrusions are removed with a special rasp within seconds;
Other defects are sealed when puttying the seams.
Curvilinear parts have to be cut according to the markings previously made on the sheet shell. For this are used:
A drywall saw (or, in its absence, a narrow garden saw);
Electric jigsaw with wood saw.

Important: the teeth of the file should look up, towards the sole of the tool. Otherwise, when cutting, it will try to bounce on the surface of the sheet, which is guaranteed to affect the accuracy of the cut line.

Drywall fixing

The sheet is installed vertically so that its edges fall on the middle of the racks, and is attracted to all the profiles covered by it (not excluding the guides) with self-tapping screws in increments of no more than 20 cm.

A few basic rules for installing drywall:

The minimum distance from the fastener to the edge of the sheet is 20 mm. Try to fasten the sheet closer to the edge - you will get a chipped edge;
The hat should sink a millimeter deeper than the surface of the kraft paper. It has to be sealed during puttying;

If the self-tapping screw broke through the drywall, then do not unscrew it - just screw another one next to it. You will remove the hole remaining in the wall sheathing when puttying.

Putty mixing

Gypsum mixes are sold dry and closed with water before use (see How to dilute putty during self-repair). Its quantity per unit weight of the mixture is always indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging - usually it is equal to a liter of water per 1.6 kg of gypsum.

Mixing putty is done like this:

Pour the required amount of water into a bucket or other wide container (no more than 3 liters, otherwise you have a chance not to have time to work out the putty before it sets);

Pour the dry mixture into the water, distributing it as evenly as possible over the surface;
After 3-5 minutes, when the gypsum swells, mix the putty with a spatula or whisk until a uniform consistency.

Caution: never pour water into dry gypsum mix. The price of violating this rule is insoluble lumps at the bottom, which will spoil the surface of the plasterboard when puttying.

Reinforcement and puttying

The seams are reinforced with sickle pasted on both adjacent sheets, and puttied with the first layer directly through its cells. The second layer is applied after the first has dried (at least after 12 hours) and hides the texture of the glass mesh. The pits from the fasteners are also puttied at least twice: the second layer compensates for the shrinkage of the gypsum during hydration.

The seams between the sheets cut in place, need to be jointed before puttying. From them, with a sharp knife, chamfers are removed by 2/3 of the GKL thickness. Jointing contributes to filling the seam with putty to the full depth and the absence of cracks.

If the factory edges of the PLUK (semicircular with thinning) make it possible to hide the reinforcement by applying a layer of putty flush with the surface of the plasterboard, then the edges of drywall sheets cut in place do not provide such an opportunity. If the seams stand out in thickness, puttying the entire surface of the partition will help to hide them.

This is done with a wide spatula - the putty is applied to it with a narrower tool, after which two maximally thin layers perpendicular to each other are applied to the gypsum board.

After the finishing layer of putty has dried, the wall surface is sanded (with a grater or, which is much more convenient, with a grinder), cleaned of dust and primed with a penetrating acrylic primer for wallpaper or painting (see Primer for drywall for wallpaper - why is it needed).

Lesson 3: doors, windows

The interior wall of plasterboard is often equipped with a door or (in the case of a bath or bathroom) a skylight. How to embed a window or door block into a partition? The block (a box with a canvas or a frame) is mounted as an assembly at the frame assembly stage.

The procedure for installing a door is usually as follows:

Leave a full-width gap in the bottom guide door frame;

We mount on a plumb line, strictly vertically one of the racks adjacent to the opening;
We expose the door block to a vertical position and fasten it with self-tapping screws screwed in from the side of the profile;

Tip: for greater reliability of fastening, sealant or mounting foam can be applied to the outer surface of the door frame.

In the same way, we mount the second rack on the opposite side of the block. At the same time, the door leaf must be wedged in the box with wooden wedges, scraps of plywood or hardboard - otherwise it may rub the jambs in the future;
We fix a jumper from a rack or guide profile above the door block.

The light window is mounted in the same way, but with two amendments:

The gap in the lower rail is not needed for obvious reasons;
There should be two jumpers between the racks adjacent to the opening - above the window and below it.

Lesson 4: maximum stiffness with minimum thickness

How to make a gypsum board wall as rigid as possible with its minimum thickness? In this case, guides and racks 50 mm thick are used to mount the frame.

Rigidity is provided in one of three ways or a combination of them:

Racks are connected in pairs (nested into each other or simply installed side by side);

The step between the posts is reduced to 400 or even 300 mm. Do not forget: the width of the drywall sheet must be a multiple of this step;
Wooden mortgages (50 mm bars) are embedded in the racks.

Lesson 5: arches

How to cut plasterboard arches into walls? The only difference between the frame of such a partition and the one described above is that the vault of the arch must be mounted with a flexible profile.

In this capacity, you can use:

Special arched profile;

Guide profile with side walls notched every 5-10 cm (depending on the radius of the plasterboard arch on the wall).

Covering the vault can be done:

Arched GKL 6 mm thick. It bends with a sufficiently small radius without damaging the shell and core;

Wall drywall, notched from the back to half the depth.
When fastened with screws to the frame, the vault forms a segmented surface.

A rounded shape is attached to the arch arch on a plasterboard wall when puttying.

Lesson 6: Soundproofing

The wall between the bedroom and the living room, for obvious reasons, should provide maximum sound insulation - a member of your family who hardly wants to sleep will be pleased with the sounds of a feast or watching the next blockbuster on a nightly television channel.

The simplest way to soundproof a plasterboard wall is to fill the cavities of the frame with mineral wool. For this purpose, it is best to purchase glued boards with a size of 1000x600 mm. Their dimensions allow you to install a heater between the racks with a standard spacing step, without cutting them in width.

In the photo - filling the partition frame with soundproofing material

However, the mineral wool will only dampen the acoustic resonance in the frame cavity. Meanwhile, the frame itself is also capable of transmitting acoustic vibrations from one side of the wall to the other.

The problem is solved by building two independent frames with a thickness of 50 to 100 mm each with a small gap between them. The cavities between the racks are filled with mineral wool; sheathing on each side is carried out in one or, which is much more reasonable, in two layers.

Conclusion

We hope that our lessons will help the reader to master the basics of building from GKL. To learn more about how interior plasterboard walls are built with your own hands, the video in this article will help you. Good luck!

Working with do-it-yourself drywall walls that can be perfectly aligned, or used to build light, durable partitions, is quite affordable even for a novice builder. Drywall is excellent for finishing the concrete walls of high-rise apartment buildings and leveling curved surfaces in private homes. This material is able to reduce the high audibility from the street and additionally insulate the building envelope.

The great advantage of drywall over other finishing materials is that it can be used to create entire complexes of niches and shelves built into the wall, to perform original arched structures.

With the use of this material, it is carried out in two ways - by fixing drywall sheets to a frame crate or by gluing the plasterboard to the wall using a special gypsum-based mounting compound.

If the process of leveling surfaces using plaster mortars requires fairly high skills, and if there are large differences on the walls, even outstanding skill, then working with drywall in such a comparison can be called simple. The main thing in this process is to correctly and accurately perform each of the installation steps.

To put the walls in order without hitches and difficulties, you need to prepare well for this event by purchasing necessary materials and tools, as well as having studied the installation instructions for a particular design.

Preparing the surface of the walls before leveling will also not be superfluous, especially since it will not take much time and effort, but will be of great benefit.

What is required for work?

Drywall installation tools

For the installation of drywall structures, special tools will be required, and, for gluing the material, a smaller number of them will be required than for fixing to the frame.

In order not to repeat and create two lists for each type of work separately, you can include them in one, but with a few clarifications.

Shurupov rt for mounting the frame and fixing the drywall on the crate.
Spatula of medium size for applying putty and glue.
Notched trowel for spreading the adhesive over the surface of the sheets.
or the usual building level - for marking and monitoring the evenness of the wall being mounted.
A sharp construction or clerical knife - for cutting material.
Electric drill with a hammer drill and drill bits for concrete - for fastening frame structure to ceilings, walls, floors.
Nozzle-mixer for mixing glue (if drywall will be attached to the wall with it) and putty compounds.
Paint roller for priming wall surfaces.
Capacity for adhesive composition with a volume of approximately 8 liters.
Shears for cutting metal - for cutting galvanized profiles.
Planer for processingedges- chamfering.
Grout for processing sealed joints between sheets.
Grinder - "Bulgarian" and a disk for cutting thin metal.
Prosekatel - for fastening metal profiles to each other.

A rule that tests the evenness of a surface.
Measuring and control tool - tape measure, a plumb line, a long metal ruler, a square, a simple pencil or marker.

Materials for working with drywall

From the materials you will need to purchase:

Drywall, which must be ordered 10÷15% more than the required quantity.

Drywall is produced in four types, and each of them is designed for use in different rooms depending on operating conditions. The sheets have their own recognized color marking system, by which you can easily determine the intended purpose of the material:

Three main types of drywall - regular, moisture resistant and heat resistant

- Gray color has the usual drywall (gypsum plasterboard), used in residential premises with normal air humidity.

- The pink or light purple color of the cardboard indicates that it is a heat-resistant material used for wall cladding around fireplaces and stoves. It is defined by the acronym GKLO.

- Green shades are inherent in a moisture-resistant material that is suitable for wall decoration, for example, in a bathroom. It is designated by the letters GKLV.

- Dark gray or blue color is assigned to drywall, which combines the qualities of both heat resistance and moisture resistance. This type is denoted by the letters GKLVO, and it is used to decorate the walls of baths or boiler rooms.

Sheet sizes various types drywall vary as follows:

drywall type	Thickness in mm	Width in mm	Sheet length in mm
GKL	8,0; 9,5; 12,5;14; 16	1200
GKL	18 and over	600	1200
GKLV	10; 12,5; 14;16	1200	standard - 2500 (on request - up to 4000 mm)
GKLO	12,5; 14; 16	1200 and 600	likewise
GKLVO	12,5; 14; 16	1200	likewise

Metal profile for installing wall lathing or mounting a frame partition.

Profile name	Profile brand	Application area
guide	PN 50/40	Frame guide profiles for wall cladding and partitioning.
	PN 75/40
	PN 100/40
rack	PN 50/50	Racks of a framework of partitions and lathings of walls.
	PN 75/50
	PN 100/50
	PP 60/27	Frame walls and suspended ceilings.
guide	Mon 28/27	Frame walls and suspended ceilings.
Protective corner profile	PU 20/20	Protection of external corners of partitions and walls.
Note: in the marking of profiles, the first number indicates the width, the second the height of the element. Profiles are produced in a standard length of 3000 mm.

Direct hangers - for fixing racks to the wall, if it is necessary to create a large thickness of insulation or level the wall with large differences.

Sealing tape, which is glued to profiles mounted directly to the wall.

Dry mortar - mounting adhesive for fixing drywall to walls without installing a crate.

before installing drywall and for training assembled structure to further puttying.

Gypsum-based putty - for sealing joints between sheets and subsequent finishing alignment of a plasterboard wall.
Reinforcing tape or mesh - for gluing joints when their puttying.

Special self-tapping screws for working with drywall.

Dowels for fixing profile racks on brick or concrete wall, ceiling, floor.

Thermal insulation material - if it is planned to insulate or soundproof wall or partition.

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Drywall and sheet materials

Preparatory activities

Whatever method of mounting drywall on the wall is chosen, it is necessary to prepare the surface before installing it. This must be done so that mold or fungus does not develop under the drywall, and when gluing the material, it fits snugly against the wall. The preparation process is not so complicated, but it will guarantee the long operation of the new wall without repair work.

The work can be conditionally divided into three stages - this is cleaning the wall, sealing cracks and priming the wall with antiseptic compounds.

The first step is to clean the wall of old coatings, such as old peeling plaster and unnecessary wallpaper. If the plaster is solid and adheres well to the wall, then it can only be primed.
Cleaning can be done with a spatula. If you have to remove the wallpaper, then it is recommended to wet it intensively by applying water to the surface using a roller with a soft nozzle. When the wallpaper gets wet, it will more easily move away from the wall if you pick it up with a spatula.
If the plaster layer is unreliable, unstable, flaking, covered with cracks, then the damaged areas must be removed. This can be done in two ways:

- The first option is to knock down old finish using a puncher, or manually - with a chisel and a hammer.

- The second option is to abundantly soak the plaster and carefully peel it off the wall with a spatula.

If a brick wall is leveled by gluing drywall, then it is imperative to remove all protrusions from it that could remain on it after the masonry is completed. The protrusions will interfere with a good fit of the sheets to the surface. Such irregularities are knocked down with an ordinary hammer or with a puncher.

Thereafter, brick wall must be thoroughly cleaned with an iron brush from the remnants of sand-cement mortar and dust.

Further, if serious cracks are found on the wall, they must be expanded, cleaned, and after it dries, repaired plaster mixture, sealant or mounting foam. Last option for example, if the crack in the wall or plaster layer is large enough.
The next step is to treat the wall with an antiseptic primer. It is applied with a roller.

Priming is a mandatory event, and it is better to carry it out in two layers.

Everything further work carried out after complete drying of the wall surface.

Prices for different types of primer

Primer

Alignment of walls by gluing drywall

Mounting drywall with gluing is much easier than mounting it on a frame. However, this method of fixing the finish is possible only if the wall surface does not have significant irregularities and deformations in the form of protrusions and recesses of more than 5 mm, and the ceiling level in the room does not exceed 3 meters.

This method of installation is not suitable even when the wall is supposed to soundproof or, since the materials for this will require a certain space under the drywall sheets.

This method is well suited for leveling not too high-quality walls to the ideal and creating smooth surface for subsequent application or gluing of decorative finishing material.

Gluing works are carried out as follows:

The prepared wall must be measured using a plumb line and a building level. If dents are found on the wall, they must be brought to the same level with the common surface, since in these places, after installing drywall, voids may form where condensate will collect. This is especially important to do in cases where.

You can bring all the recesses and dents to the same level using self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the wall at a distance of 200 ÷ 300 mm from each other and up to the same level with the entire wall. Then, a plaster mortar of the required thickness is applied on top of them and equalized with the caps of the self-tapping screws and the rest of the surface.

Before proceeding to the next stage of work, it is necessary to wait for the mortar to harden well, as the drywall sheet will rest on it.

The next step is to apply another coat of primer.

The primer will not only protect the wall from various biological influences, but also create reliable adhesion between the wall, adhesive and drywall, which will speed up installation and improve the quality of work.

Next, the mounting adhesive solution. To do this, water at room temperature is poured into the container, into which a dry powder mixture is poured and kneaded using a construction mixer or a drill with a nozzle installed on it. The manufacturer must indicate the proportions of the preparation of the solution in the manufacturing instructions, which can always be found on the packaging.

It is very important to remember that gypsum-based glue starts to harden very quickly, so it is better to knead it in small portions, otherwise you can ruin it. a large number of solution. If the process has begun with a grasping, it is impossible to stop it, even by adding an extra amount of water on an emergency basis.

Further, it is required to provide that the drywall sheet during installation does not rest against the floor surface, it must be raised from it by about 8 ÷ 10 mm. Therefore, a rail of this thickness is temporarily placed under the sheet to be mounted.
A drywall sheet is laid horizontally on the floor, and an adhesive mass is applied pointwise on it, in slides, at a distance of 180 ÷ 200 mm from one another. After that, the solution is slightly distributed, the sheet rises, is installed in the right place and pressed against the wall.

The installed drywall sheet can be corrected, trimmed in the range of 7 ÷ 10 mm, for example, by tapping on it with a building level or a rule. If an unclosed space remains on top (and this is how it most often happens), then it would be best to veneer with GKL fragments only after the installation of entire drywall sheets giving direction to the entire wall is completed.

Further, the work proceeds in the same order. All sheets are installed to each other end-to-end, with factory chamfers attached. Additional fragments, chamfers at the place of the cut, of course, do not have. It is not on the end sides of the GKL either. This means that for such joints it must be done independently, using a plane or a knife.
At the end of the installation, the glue is allowed to dry thoroughly, so the lined walls are left for about a day.
After that, you can proceed to sealing the joints. First, it is recommended to treat them with a primer, and then, after the soil has dried, the sheet joints are glued with a sickle mesh, which reinforces the joints, and the putty layer applied on top does not crack.

A thin layer of putty is applied to the joints glued with a mesh using a spatula. It is best to level it immediately to the maximum, so that after hardening there is less smoothing work.

If the serpentine tape does not have its own adhesive base, then at first the serpentine is applied to the joint, and then the serpentine is applied on top of it, and then pressed into the solution with a spatula, after which the excess is removed.

When the putty dries, it is rubbed with a special tool - grout on which is installed sandpaper with fine grain or abrasive mesh.

After completion of sealing and drying of the joints, the entire surface is covered with a primer, which must also dry completely.

High-quality puttying is the key to the aesthetic appearance of a plasterboard wall

Whatever technology is used when installing a drywall wall, the final step before finishing is giving surfaces of perfect evenness and smoothness with putty. How to do it right or for painting - in a special publication of our portal.

Alignment of the wall with drywall using a frame structure

Mounting on a frame is more difficult, but opens up more possibilities

Mounting drywall on the frame is a more complex and troublesome option, but you can’t do without it if you plan to additionally insulate the wall and soundproof. The frame can be made of galvanized metal profiles or wooden beams.

Illustration
	Preparatory work is underway. The wall is cleaned of loose plaster and treated with a primer. When leveling the wall with drywall, whether the structure is with or without insulation, it is necessary to cover the base surface with an antiseptic composition. Next, the wall must be marked out by marking vertical lines on it, which will serve as a guide for installing racks. The step between the drains is taken equal to 400 or 600 mm - these values fit well into the standard width of the gypsum board 1200 mm.
	The next step is to fix the guide profiles to the ceiling and floor, into which the racks will be installed and fixed.
	Profiles can be fastened to the floor, walls and ceiling with dowels, depending on the surface material - driven or screwed. Profiles can be fixed to wooden bases with self-tapping screws.
	To improve the quality of sound insulation, prevent the transmission of vibrations to the frame and resonate the plasterboard coating, before fixing the profiles to the floor, ceiling or wall, it is recommended to stick a special tape on its shelf adjacent to the surface.
	Having fixed the upper and lower guides on the flow and the floor, ideally exactly in the same vertical plane (this must be controlled with a plumb line), you can proceed to the installation of the racks. It must be remembered that how accurately the guides are set, the entire drywall wall will be so even.
	The racks of the frame are installed inside the guides, set along the marking lines, they are given a vertical position, and then they are fixed with a notcher. If there is no such tool, then fastening can be carried out using self-tapping screws.
	In this photo, the mounted frame is clearly visible, but it has not yet been finally fixed to the wall with the help of hangers.
	Further, each of the racks must be fixed with several straight hangers. These brackets are fixed on the wall with dowels at a vertical distance of 500 ÷ 600 mm from each other.
	Then, with the help of self-tapping screws, the racks are fixed to the suspensions (the verticality of the profile must be checked again). This makes the structure rigid, connected to the main wall.
	In this photo, the racks of the entire frame are fixed to the wall, and the crate is ready for further work.
	The protruding parts of the suspensions are bent to the sides. When the crate is ready, all communication wiring can be laid if, for example, it is planned to mount sockets or switches on this wall.
	If the wall is additionally insulated, then after the installation of the frame is completed, thermal insulation material - mineral wool - is laid between the racks. Further, the insulation must be closed with a vapor barrier membrane. It is attached to a wooden crate with a stapler and staples, and to a metal one - using double-sided masking or mounting tape.
	After that, proceed to the installation of drywall. The bottom sheets, in accordance with the technology, are recommended to be installed with a gap of about 10 mm from the floor - for this, temporary linings, for example, a wooden lath, can be used during the installation process. This is necessary so that the sheet from below does not begin to crumble under its own weight. Usually the height of the sheet is not enough to close the entire space of the wall to the ceiling - there will be a section on top, which will later be covered by a separate fragment. It is recommended that sheets, starting from the second and further, be laid “in a run-up”, so that the horizontal seams are spaced apart: one from above - the next from below, etc. An example is shown in the figure.
	Drywall fixed special self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the profiles directly through the sheet, without pre-drilling. Fastening is carried out in all racks and jumpers (if any). In this case, the self-tapping screw should not be located closer than 10 mm to any of the edges of the sheet. The head of the self-tapping screw, after screwing in, should “drown” in drywall by about 1 mm. The step between the screws is from 250 to 350 mm. If suddenly the self-tapping screw “did not go”, then after removing it, another cannot be screwed into the same hole - you need to step aside by at least 50 mm.
	In this photo, the remaining area unfilled with drywall is clearly visible, and it has to be closed. To do this, it is necessary to install a cross-beam from the profile between the racks, to which the upper edge of the already mounted sheet and the lower side of the missing fragment will be attached with self-tapping screws.
	To fix the crossbar on the racks, you can fix the corners specially made from profile segments.
	The finished crossbar is installed between the uprights, half-slid under the installed sheet and fastened to the corners using a cutter or self-tapping screws.
	Another option for making a jumper. Measure and cut off from the profile a segment equal to the distance between the uprights plus the width of the upright profile, since the wide part of the cross member must be on the uprights between which it will be fixed. Then, the side shelves of the crossbar are cut to a distance equal to half the width of the profile, and are bent outward at a right angle. They will become the shelves through which the fastening is carried out using a notcher or self-tapping screws.
	A piece of plasterboard sheet of the required dimensions is measured and cut out. After that, it is attached to the racks and the upper part of the installed cross member. A chamfer is made along the edges of the sheets at the junction with a sharp knife or planer - this is necessary in order to be able to putty the joining line of the fragments with high quality. Such a chamfer is made on all edges where it is not provided for by the sheet design itself. Fragments are fastened with self-tapping screws according to the usual rules.
	A wall sheathed with drywall should look something like this.
	After that, a sickle mesh is glued to all joints, and then they are sealed with putty. In addition, all the holes must be puttied, from the caps of the self-tapping screws so that they do not later appear as rusty spots through the decorative finish. The final stage of work is the coating of all walls sheathed with drywall with a primer, and after it dries, with putty.

Installing a lightweight plasterboard partition

Installation is somewhat similar to wall cladding on a frame structure. But there are also differences here, the frame is fixed to the walls only from the ends, and is sheathed with drywall on both sides.

The frame partition made of GKL has the following basic design:

The frame is mounted from a wooden beam or a galvanized metal profile. The frame racks are mounted at a distance from each other based on the width of the drywall sheet, so that its edges are half their width, and at least one rack is located in the middle of the canvas. It should be noted that quite often the frame is made combined, that is, in some places a wooden beam is inserted into the metal profile for rigidity.
The frame is sheathed on both sides with drywall. Sometimes sheathing of one or both sides and two layers of material is practiced.
Between the sheets of cladding, soundproof (insulating) mats- as a rule, basalt mineral wool is used for this.

Installation of a plasterboard partition is carried out as follows:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The first step is to determine the place of installation of the partition, its marking is carried out. To do this, points are determined on the wall and on the floor using a laser or ordinary level and a tape measure, which are then combined into lines using a colored paint cord.
	Then, focusing on the line on the wall and floor, with the help of a plumb line, points are determined for beating markings on the ceiling.
	Immediately you need to determine the location of the doorway and make marks on the ceiling and floor for the installation of perfectly vertical racks. The fixing of the horizontal guide on the floor is carried out only before and after the measured area allotted for the doorway.
	After accurate marking of all surfaces, the area of \u200b\u200bfixing metal profiles will be immediately visible. The rails are fixed first to the walls, ceiling and floor, into which the racks will then be installed.
	These elements are fixed with dowels (self-tapping screws are used for wooden bases). First, through holes are drilled through the guides, and then dowels are inserted and hammered into them (self-tapping screws are screwed in).
	Further, when the frame for the frame is ready, you need to immediately install the racks that will frame the doorway. It is recommended to immediately make tabs from a wooden bar into these profiles. Racks are installed from floor to ceiling and are fixed in the rails with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in from both sides.
	It is even better if two racks are installed next to them, combined with bars. This design will make the frame more rigid and reliable.
	The next step is to measure and mark the height of the doorway, where the transverse element will be fixed, completing its formation. To do this, the profile is cut at the corners, the side parts are bent and fixed on the racks.
	In order to stiffen the crossbar and the entire opening, the crossbar must be additionally connected to a rail fixed to the ceiling with one or two short posts.
	Further, all other racks are installed in the guides and fixed strictly in a vertical position with the help of a notcher or self-tapping screws. The step between the uprights is the same as indicated in the previous instructions - 400 or 600 mm.
	After installing the racks, you can proceed to the installation of drywall sheets. They are installed and fixed according to the same principle as when sheathing a wall. In the area of \u200b\u200bthe doorway, drywall should not be cut in advance. It will be more convenient to fix a solid sheet to the frame, and make cuts on it with a sharp knife on the spot.
	The upper side of the resulting rectangle is cut through, and on the side, longer, only cardboard is cut - then it will break exactly along the notch.
	Having finished the installation of drywall sheets on one side, you can start laying communication cables, for which small holes are made in certain places of the profiles - with the expectation that a pipe with wires (corrugated or smooth-walled) passes through them. It is forbidden to pass cables through holes in galvanized profiles without a tube-sleeve.
	In the chosen place, where the placement of sockets and switches is planned, socket holes are drilled on the installed GKL sheets for mounting socket boxes. They are connected to the cabling.
	If this has been planned, thermal and acoustic insulation material (mineral wool) is laid. Insulation panels or mats must be installed spaced apart between the posts.
	After completing the soundproofing process, a door frame is installed in the doorway. It is leveled, and if necessary, wedges are carefully driven into the gaps between it and the frame to help fix it in the desired position. Then, it is screwed to the frame racks. If large enough gaps remain around it, they must be filled with mounting foam, wait for it to dry and carefully cut off the excess that has come out.
	After that, the drywall is fixed on the other side of the partition. The installation principle does not change. Drywall on the doorway is fixed and cut out in the same way as in the previous case.
	The final stage before priming and puttying the entire surface is sealing the joints between the sheets and the holes from the self-tapping screws.

It is very important to carry out qualitatively, as they will determine the smoothness of the surface of the plasterboard wall, and this will depend appearance decorative finishes.

Video: a master class on the construction of a lightweight plasterboard frame partition

Working with drywall is a creative process, and if you really feel like doing it yourself, then you can safely get down to business. Having prepared all the tools and materials, as well as having studied the installation instructions, even that industrious owner of an apartment or house who has not previously come across the construction business will be able to carry out this event.

Finally, this important decision is made - you decide to make drywall walls with your own hands. But where to start and how to avoid critical mistakes? About,
what materials and tools will be needed, and how to properly carry out the work at each stage of the repair, let's talk in more detail.

To sheathe walls with drywall, you will need the following tools:

tape measure and ruler;
sharp knife or saw for drywall work;
perforator or drill;
metal scissors;
screwdriver;
level and plumb or laser builder.

To make a frame from a profile, you will use:

The most commonly used fasteners for the installation of gypsum board structures

profile: carrier (width 60, height 27 millimeters) and guide (width 28, height 27 millimeters);
direct suspensions for the profile (read about fasteners when working with plasterboard);
dowels;
"bugs" 4 mm, they are also self-tapping screws for metal;
self-tapping screws 25 mm for drywall sheets.

The approximate cost of materials for finishing walls with drywall in a room of 20 m2 (5 by 4, height 2.5 m):

15 sheets (width 1.25, length 2.5 meters) for 215 rubles - 3225 rubles (Knauf);
bearing profiles 3 meters long, 68 rubles each - 80 meters (40 centimeters first indent, distance between the following profiles 60 cm) - 5440 rubles;
profile guides 3 meters long at 52 rubles each - 90 meters (distance of 60 centimeters) - 4680 rubles.

Preparing walls for subsequent installation

Immediately before starting work, the walls are cleaned of old wallpaper and lagging plaster. Dirt and dust (if any) is erased. On uneven walls
beacons are installed.
Then markup is made to place the guides. The most commonly used ruler and tape measure, as well as the building level and plumb. But more convenient and
modern will be the use of a laser builder.

This handy tool will help you make drywall walls with your own hands:

projections of planes simultaneously on four walls of the room;
projection of a horizontal line and its intersection with vertical lines;
projections of points to the ceiling up and to the floor down (plumb).

All angles are measured with a laser level, and the lines are marked with a chalk line. All construction lines must be level with respect to the floor!

Installation and installation of a frame from a profile for plasterboard walls

The framework consists of guides (horizontal) and bearing (vertical) profiles. Plasterboard sheets are attached to the latter with self-tapping screws.

The times when drywall was attached directly to walls and ceilings are gradually becoming a thing of the past. Frames made of
metal profiles or wooden slats and bars.

Metal is more commonly used, since it does not absorb moisture, is not damaged by fungus and has a longer service life.

The frame consists of guides (horizontal) and load-bearing (vertical) profiles (you can read more about mounting the frame). Plasterboard sheets are attached to the latter with self-tapping screws.

Scissors for metal cut out parts of the frame.
On site doorway and windows are left the right dimensions(openings).
A horizontal line is marked along the bottom plinth.
Near the ceiling, exactly the same line is drawn (built relative to the line below using a plumb line or a laser builder). By these marked by the floor and
near the ceiling, guide profiles are attached to the lines, to which the vertical racks of the frame (bearing profiles) will be mounted.
The gap between the fasteners to the wall is an average of 60 centimeters. The whole structure is attached to the walls with dowels (size for concrete 4 mm). For each
profile requires three dowels. If it is long, then more than three dowels are used.

Then vertical racks (bearing profiles) are attached with metal screws.

This is what a plasterboard wall looks like.

The distance between the profiles is as follows:

20-40 centimeters from the wall to the first profile;
60 centimeters between subsequent profiles.

Bearing vertical frame profiles always have C-shaped sections and additional stiffeners. Guides are horizontal U-shaped and they are designed for a smaller load.

Three profiles should be installed on one sheet of drywall (two at the edges, one in the center).

Drywall technology

Scheme of connection of the wall and guide profile when mounting the frame for drywall

Drywall with a thickness of at least 12.5 millimeters is used on the wall.

Cutting drywall sheets is quite simple. They should be placed on a flat surface and drawn along the marking line with a sharp knife. Then leaf
bent along the notch and cut through from the back side. Sections are processed with a rasp for perfect smoothness.
Sheets cut to size are attached to the frame on the wall using self-tapping screws. It is better to place sheets in a checkerboard pattern.
A screwdriver is used to tighten, it will help to cope with the work faster.
The distance between the screws is 25 centimeters (indentation from the edge is 3 centimeters). Hats should not be sunk too deep into the thickness of the sheet - this can
lead to breakage.
All joints are sealed with a sickle and covered with putty.

On a note.
To level the walls with plasterboard, you need at least two, and preferably three people. This material has increased fragility and it is not possible for one person to lay it on the frame correctly.

If you decide to install walls using a wooden frame

For rooms with low humidity, it is allowed to use a wooden frame made of bars (size 60 by 40 mm).
First, horizontal rails are attached.
Then, with the help of self-tapping screws, vertical bars are mounted to them (previously cut out in the guide rails according to the marking of the recess for
vertical posts).
To align the walls, the verticality of the frame must be checked by a level! The pitch of the fasteners is 15 centimeters.
wood being processed special formulations protecting against mold and moisture.

Wall cladding with plasterboard

For smooth and dry walls, adhesive fastening can be performed.

Ten-centimeter strips of drywall are attached to the walls (parallel to the ceiling and floor). used
glue "Perlfix" (Knauf).
Then vertical strips (60 centimeters wide) are glued to them.
Each sheet is smeared with glue as follows: glue drops are located at a distance of 25 centimeters along the perimeter, and 35 centimeters in the center.
Then the sheet is applied to the supporting frame and slightly pressed.

Video: how to glue drywall on walls

How to insulate walls with drywall?

To keep the heat in the room under the drywall, foam sheets are mounted. They are installed with
using dowels with "umbrellas" (5-6 per sheet) or glue.
The gaps between the foam are blown out with mounting foam. Top overlap fastened with rails
polyethylene film. This is a budget option.
More expensive is the additional foam sheathing with any flexible fiberglass insulation.
(for example, Ursa 5 cm thick, sold in
rolls 1.2 meters wide and 6 to 14 meters long).

Insulation will help not only protect the apartment from heat loss, but also enhance sound insulation and thereby add comfort to housing.

Problems of wall insulation in this way

However, many builders speak out against the internal insulation of plasterboard walls. The colder it is outside, the more the wall will freeze.
Condensation will appear near the heater and this will lead to its getting wet. Over time, mold will appear under the foam, which is not the most in the best way will affect
residents' health. In addition, exterior walls without access to room heat begin to collapse at an accelerated pace.

Ultimately, each owner decides on his own, to make his choice in favor of internal insulation or to put up with the inevitable loss of heat in
cold season.

To keep the heat in the room under the drywall, foam sheets are mounted. They are installed using dowels with "umbrellas" (5-6 per sheet) or glue.

There are a number of ways to improve the quality of internal insulation:

the insulation should be as close as possible to the wall;
also it should not have high vapor permeability;
high quality film is used for insulation, all joints are carefully sealed with glue;
walls are pre-treated with a composition against the appearance of fungi and mold.

Important points when working with drywall

First, all whole sheets are attached. And only after that the inserts are cut and screwed.
The distance between the screws in the center of the sheet can be extended up to 30 centimeters.
Self-tapping screws should be slightly buried in the sheet (no deeper than 1 mm).
A wooden block is inserted into the frame around the circumference of the doorway. This will secure the door frame.
Sheets are attached only if they are sure of a uniform fit to the profile. Skews are fraught with sheet breaks.
The sheets have a slight narrowing at the edges - this is a margin for applying putty. Sheets are placed narrowing outward, that is, facing the room.
The first sheet is superimposed so that its edge covers half the width of the vertical profile.

For all the seeming complexity, wall cladding with drywall sheets is quite simple to perform. The main thing is not to be afraid to make repairs with your own hands and not to make a mistake during preliminary calculations.

A popular proverb says - "Who does not take risks, he does not drink champagne." It applies to some extent to the repair work. Confidence in your own abilities!

Video: installation of a frame for drywall and walls

When arranging your home, it often becomes necessary to build new partitions and internal walls. It can be a full-scale redevelopment, and the desire to split an existing room into two parts or form rooms in a new building, which is made in a single space. For the construction of new internal partitions drywall and metal profiles are used. This material is so convenient and easy to use that it is possible to build drywall walls with your own hands without even resorting to anyone's help. However, despite the above statement, in the process of forming walls from plasterboard, there are many nuances that should be taken into account. Only in this way can a reliable and durable design be obtained as a result.

Work materials

First, let's decide what we need to build a wall of materials and what tools we have to work with.

To ensure the strength and correct configuration of the wall, the frame should be erected initially. It is made of a metal profile, which is specially designed for drywall and a number of accessories for its installation.

Basically, a profile of two main sizes is used:

D - to form a plane on which drywall (smaller) will be fixed;
W - to build a common wall frame (larger).

In addition, for each size there are profile options such as support (C) and guide (U). The guide variant is a simpler version of the U-shaped profile with smooth walls; the supporting profile is inserted into it with the butt end. The support profile, in addition to the U-shape, has a special ribbing made by pressing to acquire greater bending rigidity.

As a result:

CD - size 60 * 27 mm, the main load-bearing element of the frame;
UD - size 28 * 27 mm guide for fixing the CD profile;
CW - size 50*50, 50*75, 50*100 mm rack profile for forming a wall frame;
UW - size 50*40, 75*40, 100*40 mm guide for CW profile.
In addition, there is the UA profile, which is a variant of the CW profile with a thicker wall and reinforced.

To build a simple partition with a width of 50, 75, 100 mm, only CW and UW profiles are used. For wider walls with laying of communications, the CD and UD profiles are used, while two parallel guides are mounted on each side of the wall at the required distance.

To fix the profile in the frame, you need a straight hanger and a universal connector (crab). You can do without the latter. The elements will be twisted with flea screws with a “drill” tip and self-tapping screws for fastening drywall to metal with a countersunk head and a piercing tip (3.5X35 mm). In the course of describing the technology of erecting a drywall wall, it will become clear how many self-tapping screws of each type are needed. To fix the entire frame to the main walls, you will need plastic dowels with impact screws.

Drywall sheets for building a wall are selected with a thickness of 12.5 mm, always with a wide chamfer on the sides. If the wall is formed in the kitchen or in the bathroom, then a moisture-resistant GKL is selected. You can distinguish them by color, because the moisture-resistant sheet is green, the usual one is gray.

As a result, you will need to build a wall:

drywall, CD, UD, CW, UW profile, wooden beam or AU profile, self-tapping screws, dowels, sealing tape, mineral wool, metal corner.

If you do not fully understand the specifics of profile types, read about their designations and differences.

Tools

You will need the following set of tools and measuring instruments:

roulette;
level (80cm, 120cm), rule;
plumb;
fishing line, rope;
screwdriver or drill with reverse;
perforator;
metal scissors;
construction knife;
grater for drywall.

The beginning of the formation of the frame of the plasterboard wall

So, with the assignment of profiles and the choice of tool completed, you can start planning and placing the future wall. The floor and adjacent walls to which it will be fixed new wall, should be at the stage immediately before finishing, that is, the floor is flat with a screed, the walls are plastered. For example, consider the formation of a wall from a UW, CW profile. On the floor we make markings for the placement of the future wall. The following points are taken into account:

Almost nowhere you will find perfectly right angles between the walls in the rooms. This is especially true for old buildings. The distance between them at different ends may differ by several centimeters. When marking a new drywall wall, this should be taken into account and tied not to one wall, but to both, which run in parallel. Distances are averaged. So you can avoid the visual curvature of the resulting room.
If, in addition to erecting a wall, all walls are plastered with plasterboard, then the frame is first displayed, or at least the marking of the sheathing so as to create the most right angles, and after that you can only start building the wall.
Outlining the first line of the wall location, it is taken into account that the guide profile will be equal to it, and not the resulting wall. To this mark will be added the thickness of the plasterboard, a layer of putty and finish.

Having decided on the first line on the floor, you can transfer it to the ceiling and walls. For this, a plumb line is used. If it is possible to use a laser level, then this will greatly simplify the task.

Important:All profiles that are attached directly to the floor, ceiling and existing walls are mounted using a sealing tape between it and the supporting surface. The UW profile guides are fixed to the floor and ceiling first. They are fixed with dowels and impact screws every half a meter and along the edges.

CW-profile support posts are attached along the edges of the rails. Racks are also installed in places where a door or window opening will be formed, which are necessary when erecting an interior plasterboard wall. Profiles are best fixed first on the bottom rail. Then it is threaded into the upper guide and installed strictly vertically in level. Only after that it is fixed on the upper guide. When arranging these profiles, the margin for sheathing with plasterboard strips over the profile is taken into account. The profiles are installed with the front side inside the opening. The racks are fixed to the rails using self-tapping flea screws.

The structure of the plasterboard partition.

Support profiles along the perimeter of door and window openings must be reinforced with wooden bars, which are inserted inside the profile and fixed with self-tapping screws. The bar is selected according to the width of the profile. If the AU profile is used, then you can do without bars.

The next step is the installation of vertical support profiles CW along the entire length of the frame. The first profile from the adjacent wall is installed at a distance of 550 mm, all subsequent ones are strictly at a distance of 600 mm from each other, measuring the distance from the middle of each profile. Be sure to check the vertical installation of profiles.

In order to designate the top of the doorway and the horizontal edges of the window openings, the same UW guide profile is used. A piece of profile is cut off 30 cm larger than the width of the opening. On the front side marks are placed on the bend of the side bends of the profile at a distance of 15 cm from each edge. The distance between the marks is equal to the width of the opening. The sidewalls of the profile are cut at an angle of 45 degrees, starting from the side of the edge of the profile to the marked mark and to the base of the profile. After that, the edges of the profile are bent, and a U-shaped design is obtained.

The resulting workpiece is put on with bent edges on the racks on the sides of the opening and rises to the required height. It is fixed with self-tapping screws, with which the edges of the profile are screwed to the racks. The obtained oblique ears are also screwed, which were formed on the main horizontal part of the workpiece. In the same way, the perimeter and window openings are formed.

This completes the formation of the frame. You can proceed to the process of fixing drywall sheets. Sheet sizes are standardized: 1200x2000 mm, 1200x2500 or 1200x3000 mm. In most cases, the ceilings in residential areas are higher and are at least 2.75 m, so one sheet in height may not be enough. It is necessary to add small strips of drywall.

The first sheet, which will be installed close to the edge, most often to the adjacent wall, must be removed from the side chamfer. To do this, a strip 50 mm wide is cut along its entire length on one side.

The result of the work

How to cut drywall?

For this, a regular construction knife with replaceable blades is used. The sheet must be placed on a flat, solid surface. The cut line is marked with a pencil and the top layer of cardboard is cut with a knife. After that, the sheet is shifted along the notch line to the edge of the support and gently breaks. Returning the sheet to its original position, it unfolds on edge and bends. On the second side, the cardboard is also cut, but not through. Turning the sheet over and shifting it to the edge of the support, you can finally chop it off.

To ensure a gap that can be subsequently repaired with putty, a bevel-bevel is formed on the cut edge of the sheet with a slope of 22.5 degrees or close to it. A special drywall planer is used for this. Also, a chamfer is made on that edge of the sheet, which will adjoin the GKL strip located above or below the sheet.

Fixing drywall sheets

Attach sheet to metal frame follows with the help of self-tapping screws 3.5x35 mm. First of all, the edges of the sheet are fixed, and then along the edges and along the midline. For this, there is a special marking marking the position of the screws every 250 mm. The distance between the screws can vary from 10 to 25 cm, but no more. The self-tapping screws are screwed in so that the caps go a little deeper into the GKL and do not stick out above the wall level.

Important: Sheets are fixed at a distance of 10-15 mm from the floor. This is necessary to ensure the integrity of the structure during operation.

Having fixed the first sheet, the remaining distance to the ceiling is measured and the corresponding piece of plasterboard is cut off. A chamfer is also formed on it from the sides, where it will dock to the bottom or top sheet and to the ceiling.

Subsequent sheets are installed entirely without chamfering and in a checkerboard pattern. That is, after the first row, a whole sheet of drywall is installed under the ceiling, and the missing part is below. Thus, one side of the wall is sheathed.

Laying wiring and installing sockets, switches

Before sheathing the second side, you can, if necessary, lay wires. To pass through the rack profiles, holes of 35 mm in size are made in them, strictly in the middle of the profile at the required height. It is desirable that the edges of the hole be concave to one side and bent so as not to damage the wires later. The wires are mounted in accordance with the requirements in a corrugated pipe.

Soundproofing plasterboard walls

For this, mineral wool is used. This will make the drywall wall not so transparent to sound, because without soundproofing, all the noise from one room will be heard in another. It is easier to use a rolled version of this material with a width of 600 or 1200 mm. The second option is cut in half lengthwise. Cotton wool is laid tightly between rack-mount profiles without gaps. There is no need to additionally fix it. For reliability, it is possible to form horizontal lintels from a wooden beam along the width of the wall, on which mineral wool of a shorter length than the height of the ceilings will rest. This method is suitable for places where there is a risk of moisture getting inside the wall. However, sufficient ventilation of the interior must also be ensured.

Completion of the plasterboard wall

After that, you can sheathe the second side of the wall. After the second side of the wall is sheathed, you can start filling all the end surfaces.

Between the sheets of drywall there is a distance of 100 mm formed by chamfers, which is somewhat recessed. The joints are glued with a sickle mounting mesh and compared with the general level of the wall with a starting putty. Finishing putty compares all installation sites of self-tapping screws or the entire surface, especially if the wall is subsequently painted or pasted over with thin wallpaper. With the help of abrasive meshes and a grater, the putty layer is finally compared. After that, the wall is ready for cladding with any suitable material.

Video: do-it-yourself plasterboard wall formation

Plasterboards are a simple and economical way to zone a room and change the usual interior. In addition, the quality characteristics of this material are not inferior to the main walls. It's very hard to share large space on functional areas without the help of specialists. But you can make beautiful drywall partitions with your own hands. Step-by-step instructions will become your real assistant and guide in this. So, let's start studying the useful properties of the material and gaining new skills in the installation of ergonomic partitions.

Read in the article

Scope of plasterboard partitions

Most likely, you have heard of such material as or drywall sheets. Now let's find out why you should choose drywall interior partitions for decoration.

GKL - finishing material consisting of three composite layers. In this "sandwich", the middle layer is made of modified gypsum for construction works with additional reinforcement. The outer layers are made of cardboard. For strength, special components are added to gypsum. Facing cardboard is the basis for finishing coatings.

The popularity of the design is due to its simplicity. Drywall sheets are fixed to steel frame, and the internal cavities are filled with soundproof materials. The frame is made of horizontal, which are attached to the ceiling and floor surfaces.

Drywall is used in many areas. After all, from this material you can realize any configuration and size. For example, it will not be difficult to build a drywall partition with.

Plasterboard walls are often used for zoning. So you can separate the office, game room or studio. It can also be an exquisite element for decoration.

Related article:

From the publication you will learn the functions, types, materials of manufacture and varieties of partition structures, as well as find photo examples of glass, plasterboard, wood and other products.

There are the following partition options:

arched, standard, on a double or single profile. This takes into account the features of the profile;
decorative plasterboard partitions or functional walls;
with openings or blind surfaces;
sliding or fixed. It depends on the installation technique.

Decorative options are used to decorate the room, as well as masking interior flaws.

In addition to partitions, drywall is used. This allows you to make the surface perfectly smooth. You can also bring to life design ideas in the form. Niches from this material are also relevant. They can be installed or various souvenirs.

With the help of arched structures, you can create original decor in room. A plasterboard finish allows you to hide any wall defects from your eyes.

How an interior with plasterboard partitions can look like can be seen in this video:

For your information! Drywall is a versatile material. Light sources or insulation can be mounted on the surface from it.

Advantages and disadvantages of drywall partitions

More recently, partitions in residential premises were made of heavy material, which also involved complex installation work. But modern ones have become more sophisticated and attractive, thanks to the appearance of drywall on the construction market. We note its positive properties:

GKL partitions have excellent sound insulation and go well with different types thermal insulation material;
the sheets are very light, which reduces the load on the floors;
material has flat surface, which allows you to use it as a basis for gluing, or;
does not apply to combustible materials;
GKL has hygroscopicity. The material perfectly absorbs moisture and lets air through;
an important parameter is ease of installation, which will allow you to change the interior in the shortest possible time;
The sheets contain natural ingredients that are safe for health.

The disadvantages include low strength compared to concrete, stone or brick structures. In addition, GKL is not very resistant to moisture.

Materials for the manufacture of interior plasterboard partitions

The main types of materials used in the installation of drywall partitions are the profiles and the GKL sheets themselves.

You can choose drywall of different types:

standard GKL is distinguished by blue markings and gray. It is wall and ceiling;
moisture resistant GKL suitable for rooms with increased level. It is green;
fire-resistant GKL is used to isolate electrical panels and. He has pink color and red label.

Drywall what thickness is better to use for partitions

To figure out how to make a partition in a room, you need to solve many problems. An important point is the choice of material thickness. If significant loads are expected, then material with a thickness of less than 12.5÷24 mm is not used.

A minimum thickness is allowed for drywall sheets to be used as a decorative element.

For functional walls you can choose the maximum thickness. These are equipped with niches and shelves on which are located flower pots and books.

For your information! It should be borne in mind that the walls are mounted on metal or wooden frame, therefore, it is important to take into account the thickness of the frame elements when calculating.

Types of drywall profiles

The profiles used may differ in functionality:

PN guide profile is made of a thin-walled channel with a width of 50 ÷ 100 mm and a shelf size of 40 mm. These parameters are indicated in the marking;
PS rack profile is distinguished by the presence of special locks - bends. It is used to stiffen and fasten the GKL;
corner profile is used to design external corners in the structure. In addition, it protects partitions from damage;
the arched profile is applied in a curvilinear shape;
the lighthouse profile has a T-shaped configuration and is used as a guide when leveling the walls.

The main methods of soundproofing partitions from plasterboard

The thickness of the partitions also depends on the soundproofing material used. used for partitions that help divide the room. In this case, foam or glass wool is used. The durability of partitions is largely determined by the quality of their assembly. It is important to consider the thickness, density of the material and the quality of the soundproofing layer. Mineral wool is often used, which has a dense fiber.

The main steps for installing a plasterboard partition with your own hands: step by step instructions

Consider technological process partition walls. It consists of four stages, not counting the finishing and works. Installation begins with marking, then the rack profiles are installed, and after that, drywall sheets are sewn onto the frame.

What tools are needed for installation

First you need to prepare a set of suitable tools:

for fixing sheets of GKL to the frame and for attaching the components of the base is necessary;
a perforator is used to install guide profiles to the floor, ceiling or wall;
grinder or metal shears are necessary for cutting profiles;
a planer is used to smooth the edges.

You will also need a tape measure, a marker, a metal level and a ruler. In addition to tools, you need to stock up on the drywall itself in the right amount.

Many beginners in the construction business have a question about how to make a partition in a room with their own hands. To do this, you must adhere to a certain sequence of work.

Do-it-yourself calculation of consumables for installing a plasterboard partition

Rack profiles are used for assembly different sizes. Their thickness depends on the selected thickness of the partitions. In order for the sheet to serve for a long time, its thickness must be at least 12.5 mm.

When performing calculations, you should know the following nuances:

if for 1 sq.m. a load of 40 ÷ 50 kg is assumed, then the thickness of the sheet should be 15 mm;
18 mm should be a thickness at loads of 50 ÷ 70 kg;
if the load is more than 70 kg, then double sheets are used, as well as strengthening the frame structure. In this case, reinforcement is carried out along the perimeter of the false walls, as well as in the installation areas of niches or.

Particular attention should be paid to the frame. It is the prefabricated frame that takes all the load on itself. If finances allow, then racks with a thickness of 100 mm can be used. This will increase the strength of the structure.

Mounting the frame base

Installation of the frame structure is an important part of the installation interior partitions. First, markup is done using a level.

The guide profile is mounted with self-tapping screws along the marked line. Vertical guides are installed in the lower profile near the walls, which are fixed with dowels. The step between the fasteners should be 30 ÷ 50 cm. Self-tapping screws are used to fasten the profiles.

The basis for the partition is made of four profiles. This results in a rectangular frame.

Formation of elements of openings

In the frame, it is recommended to provide a place under the drywall doorway. It is important that the walls are rigid and can withstand significant loads. To improve the stiffness properties, you need to insert wooden bars inside the profile. They will help to fix well.

Here is how the doorway is formed:

a wooden beam is inserted inside the rack-mount galvanized profile;
then racks with bars are installed inside the guide profiles; using a level, it is necessary to control the verticality;
the cross beam is made from a piece of rack profile. You also need to insert a timber beam into it;
With reverse sides crossbars and racks need to make holes for nails;
with the help of nails, wooden elements inside the racks are fastened;
the installation of the cross member is completed by twisting on the sides.

To understand the technology well, how to make a drywall partition in a room, do not forget about using a level. This device allows you to maintain the verticality of the elements when installation work Oh.

Installation of vertical racks

An important step is the installation of vertical profiles. It is carried out as follows:

marking is performed for the rack profile, it is marked along the width of the sheet. At the same time, there are 3 vertically mounted racks per plate;
racks should be installed from the opening to the walls;
the vertical profile should be checked with a level and fixed with self-tapping screws.

Installation of horizontal bars

Step-by-step installation with instructions: how to make a plasterboard partition with your own hands includes mounting the crossbars in a horizontal direction. To ensure structural rigidity, all vertical type guides must be fastened with horizontal jumpers. In this case, a step of 70 ÷ 80 cm is observed. The elements of the rack profile are attached to vertical posts. After the frame is assembled, wires are laid inside. They have separate holes. The wiring is laid inside the profiles in a special non-combustible insulation.

wiring device

The advantage of the GKL is that you can mount any. You need to worry about wiring in advance when the sheathing is done on one side. Cables lead inside in special ones, which contribute to better insulation. They pass through holes in the supporting profiles. After wiring, you can lay.

Cutting and bending drywall to the desired dimensions

Knowledge of how to cut the material so as not to damage it will also come in handy. Markings on the surface of drywall are best done with a simple pencil. Instead of a construction knife, you can use the usual stationery. First, cuts are made along the drawn lines, and then the material is cut. You can go around the edges with sandpaper.

Sheets can also be cut with a hacksaw. If the blade is thin, then it can be used to gently cut the sheet. has small chisels. With it, you can cut curly parts.

Laying plasterboard sheets on the resulting frame, fastening rules

Before you make a drywall partition, carefully study the technology for attaching drywall sheets:

to cut the material, you can use a special knife. It is important to cut the gypsum layer as deep as possible, and then break the plate along the notch;
cut edges must be processed with a knife or planer;
sheets are fixed to the guides with self-tapping screws;
when mounting the sheet, it is important to leave a gap at the bottom. It is necessary so that the sheets do not deform;
soundproofing is carried out using isover or mineral wool. The layer is placed between the plates.

For your information! Do not forget to install bars in those places where you plan to mount shelves or niches.

Puttying and finishing

A starting layer is also applied to the stitched sheets. You can then reinforce the outer corners with perforated corners. Then putty is used. It is applied in a thin layer with two spatulas and polished. It is better to choose putty from one manufacturer.

After the coating has dried, you can perform and finishing. You can use , or .

Summing up, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the step-by-step instructions for installing a drywall wall with your own hands in the table below:

Illustration	Description of works
	The marking of the place where the partition will be mounted is carried out. The tape measure is pulled from the sewn surface to the area that has been selected. This marking is done on both sides.
	A laser level is used for accurate marking. The vertical function allows you to accurately beat off the markings under the side walls. The laser line must be moved to the mark that was made using a tape measure. Marking along the red line should be marked with a pencil.
	The guide profile is fixed with a puncher and dowel-nails.
	The profile is fixed on the other side.
	If the walls are old, then you can additionally strengthen the structure with the help of self-tapping screws, which are screwed in like a wedge between the metal and the dowel.
	On the floor, you also need to draw a line between the guides. If installation is supposed, then markup is also made under it. To do this, you need to measure the size of the box assembly and add 2 cm for the technical clearance.
	Then markings are made on the ceiling using the laser plumb function. One point of the laser should follow the drawn line on the floor. In this case, the second one will appear on the ceiling in the right place.
	The mark from the laser must be marked with a pencil. Using a laser level, marks are made on the ceiling every 50 cm.
	According to the markup, you need to fix the guide profile on the ceiling. In this case, you need to bypass communications.
	On the floor, the profile is fixed taking into account the place under the doorway.
	Rack profiles are installed at intervals of 40 cm and vertically.
	On the one hand, the profile is installed with a gap of 40 cm from the wall, and on the other, taking into account the space for the passage of communications. Also, two profiles are placed on both sides of the opening. The profiles near the doorway are placed with the back side out. All profiles must stand vertically. This needs to be checked again with a laser fixture.
	Then you need to fix the vertical racks, for this a profile cutter is used. The profile must be fixed on both sides.
	In the profiles for the openings, you need to put invoices. For this, bars are suitable.
	The bar is inserted into the profile and screwed with screws in several places.
	It is necessary to measure the doorway and make a jumper for these dimensions. It is necessary to leave 20 cm on both sides and bend the profile in these places. Get a figure in the form of the letter P.
	Then the jumper is fixed to the height of the door frame, which must be measured taking into account the floor covering.
	After that, the firmware of drywall sheets is performed.
	Jumpers are placed on all joints.
	With a hacksaw, you need to cut off the drywall hanging over the doorway.
	The unnecessary piece is broken off.
	A sheet of drywall is also stitched on the other side.
	The second side is stitched in the same way.

Installation of plasterboard partitions: prices for work

The table below shows the estimated prices for installation work from some companies:

Type of work	Average price, rub.
Installation of partitions with the manufacture of the frame	760
Installation of partitions in one layer with insulation	350
Soundproofing of GKL structures	From 100
Installation of plasterboard wall with insulation	350
Installation of partitions on each side 1 layer	From 400
Installation of plasterboard with laying	From 400
Cutting holes in material	From 500

We hope that our review helped you gain knowledge on how to make a drywall wall. If you want to add something interesting from your experience, write in the comments.