Do-it-yourself insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the inside. How to insulate a wooden house from the inside as efficiently and durable as possible

20.06.2020

If you are going to do the insulation yourself wooden house from the inside, I recommend reading this article. We will consider in detail all the main nuances and subtleties of this procedure, which you are unlikely to be told about on other resources.

A few words about the choice of insulation

First of all, home craftsmen are interested in how to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside, as well as the floor and ceiling. The choice of insulation for a wooden house requires a special approach, because one of the main advantages of such housing is vapor permeability and environmental friendliness. Accordingly, it is desirable to preserve these qualities.

Wood is known to be a combustible material. Therefore, it is desirable that the insulation be fireproof.

Given these points, you can use the following materials for home insulation:

mineral wool;
extruded polystyrene foam;
ecowool.

mineral wool

Mineral wool is the most common insulation.

It is excellent for thermal insulation of wooden housing due to the following properties:

good thermal insulation qualities - 0.032 - 0.048 W / mK;
environmental friendliness;
good vapor permeability;
fire safety - mineral wool not only does not burn, but also resists the spread of fire;
Sold in the form of mats and rolls, making it convenient to work with mineral wool.

It should be noted that only basalt wool is environmentally friendly. In addition, it is the most thermally stable. Therefore, use it to insulate a wooden house.

True, the price of basalt wool is slightly higher. stone wool and glass wool:

brand	Cost per 1m3
Isoroc Isoruf-V	3990
TECHNOFAS L	3500
Ecover Light	1950
TECHNOFLOR	4800

Another disadvantage of basalt wool is that it causes irritation on the skin, although to a lesser extent than, for example, glass wool. But, in any case, when working with it, it is desirable to protect the eyes and respiratory organs.

In general, in my opinion, basalt wool is the most optimal insulation for wooden walls.

Penoplex

Extruded polystyrene foam is a type of regular polystyrene foam.

Thanks to a special manufacturing technology, it has higher characteristics than expanded polystyrene:

high strength - 0.2-0.5 MPa versus 0.07 MPa for foam;
thermal conductivity is lower than that of mineral wool - 0.028-0.034 W / mK;
during the manufacturing process, manufacturers add fire retardants to extruded polystyrene foam, due to which the material corresponds to the G1 combustibility class (low combustible material). True, this applies only to insulation from well-known manufacturers;
resistant to moisture, therefore, during installation does not require hydro-vapor barrier;
does not irritate the skin.

However, penoplex has some disadvantages:

vapor permeability is very low, so it is better not to use penoplex to insulate the walls of the house. At the same time, it will be a good solution for thermal insulation of the floor, as it is not afraid of moisture;
high cost - penoplex is today one of the most expensive heat-insulating materials.

Below is the cost for some common grades of extruded polystyrene foam:

Ecowool

Ecowool is relatively new heat-insulating material which has become more and more popular in recent years.

Its merits include the following points:

environmental friendliness - the material is made on the basis of wood fibers;
vapor permeability;
thanks to special additives that are present in ecowool, the insulation is fireproof and resistant to biological influences;
has a low thermal conductivity of 0.031-0.040 W / m * K;
low cost - from 1200 rubles. per cube

I must say that for the insulation of walls with ecowool, special equipment is required. Therefore, when independent work it is possible to perform with this material only the insulation of the floor or ceiling.

Here, and all the most common heaters that are used for insulation wooden houses. True, there are still materials that are applied in the form of foam, for example, polyurethane foam. However, they will not be able to perform insulation on their own, so we will not consider them.

Warming technology

The process of warming a wooden house includes three main stages:

Floor insulation

To insulate the floor yourself, you will need the following materials:

one of the heaters that I talked about above;
vapor barrier;
slats and boards - will be needed if there is no subfloor between the lags;
antiseptic impregnation for wood.

The instruction for floor insulation looks like this:

if the floor has already been used, it is necessary to dismantle the wooden flooring;
then you need to perform a draft, unless, of course, it is missing. To do this, fasten the cranial bars on the rafters from below and lay the boards on top of them;
Further all wooden elements treat the floor with an antiseptic to protect them from biological influences;

then a vapor barrier is laid over the rafters and the subfloor. The strips of the membrane should overlap each other by 10 centimeters. Be sure to glue the joints with tape.
As I said above, in the case of floor insulation with extruded polystyrene foam, vapor barrier can be omitted;

Next, you need to lay the insulation. If used for this purpose mineral plates or penoplex, place the insulation close to the logs. In addition, make sure that there are no gaps between the insulation plates;

then you need to lay another layer of the vapor barrier;
at the end of the work, it is necessary to lay the boards, fixing them on the logs with nails or self-tapping screws.

I must say that the thermal insulation of the attic floor is performed in exactly the same way, with the only difference being that the insulation is placed between the floor beams.

Wall insulation

The next stage is the insulation of the walls from the inside of a wooden house. I must say right away that it is necessary to resort to this procedure only if it is really necessary.

It is much more expedient to insulate the house from the outside.

The fact is that internal insulation contains a number of disadvantages:

insulation, although not significantly, but still takes up useful space in the room. For large houses, this, of course, is not critical, but in small houses, for example, garden ones, the reduction in space can be very noticeable;
after the walls are insulated from the inside, they completely stop heating;
moisture forms between the insulation and the wall, which leads to dampness of the surface and, accordingly, a decrease in the durability of the structure.

If insulation from the inside cannot be avoided, it is necessary to strictly adhere to a certain technology that will minimize all the negative consequences of this procedure.

So, for wall insulation, it is necessary to prepare the following materials:

antiseptic impregnation for wood;
interventional insulation;
wooden slats;
vapor barrier;
thermal insulation material;
finishing material - lining or, for example, drywall.

The process of wall insulation can be divided into four main stages:

To prepare the walls for insulation with your own hands, you need to perform the following steps:

wall surfaces must be impregnated to prevent wood decay, protect it from moisture and other negative factors;

if the house is made of beams or logs, it is imperative to insulate the intervention gaps by filling them with tow, jute insulation, or other suitable material.

Now we need to equip the ventilation space between the wall and the insulation so that the walls do not get damp.

It is done as follows:

fasten the rails to the walls in a horizontal position. Their thickness should be at least 1.5-2 cm.

Install them at a distance of 0.5 m vertically, and 2-3 cm horizontally. At the same time, try to arrange them so that they form a flat horizontal plane. Minor deviations are allowed, since the plane of the frame can be corrected at the stage of installing the racks;

then a vapor barrier membrane must be attached to the rails. It should be stretched to form a ventilation gap. Glue the joints of the membrane with adhesive tape;
for the ventilation gap to work, it is necessary to drill holes in the wall from below near the base, and from above under the visor.

Now let's start assembling the frame:

the bars that will serve as racks must be cut to the height of the room;

prepared bars must be fixed on the rails. If their thickness is equal to the thickness of the insulation, the racks can be placed close to the rails using metal corners and self-tapping screws. If the bars are thinner, they should be fixed on suspensions, while the thickness of the frame should be equal to the thickness of the insulation.
Make the distance between the posts so that the insulation fits snugly against them. For example, if mineral mats are used for insulation, the step of the racks can be made two centimeters less than the width of the mats.

To make the wall even, first install vertical posts (required in level) along the edges of the wall, i.e. near the corners, then pull the threads between them. This will allow you to set the intermediate racks in the same plane as the extreme bars;

Now we are laying the insulation in the frame. In order for the wall insulation in a wooden house to be effective from the inside, try to ensure that there are no gaps between the plates. In addition, place the tiles flush against the ceiling and against the walls.
If the cracks are nevertheless formed, they must be filled with scraps of mineral wool;

then a vapor barrier membrane must be attached to the racks. To fix it, you can use a construction stapler.
Be sure to overlap the strips of the membrane, and glue the joints with adhesive tape;
fasten wooden slats about two centimeters thick over the membrane. They will provide the necessary clearance between the skin and the vapor barrier membrane.
Keep in mind that the crate should be perpendicular to the plastic or lining.

To ensure good sound insulation in housing, it is necessary to insulate the internal walls with mineral wool, i.e. partitions. The principle of installation of insulation is the same as for the insulation of load-bearing walls.

Now we need to sheathe the frame. Usually, wooden finishing materials are used for these purposes - lining or block house.

Their installation is carried out as follows:

lining is most often installed vertically, so the boards must first be cut to the height of the room;
the first lining is installed so that the spike is directed towards the corner. To fix it, self-tapping screws are screwed into the face from the side of the spike.

From the side of the groove, the vgonka can also be fixed with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the lower ridge of the groove. It is even easier and faster to fix with the help of special fasteners - kleimers;

the subsequent board will be connected to the lock with the previous one and attached to the frame from the side of the groove. The last board on the wall is cut in width, and docked with the previous one. From the side of the corner, the lining is fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the face;

at the end of the work, wooden corners are mounted on the corners. They will hide the joints of the lining and the hats of the screws.

This completes the insulation of the walls inside the house.

Ceiling insulation

As I said above, ceiling insulation can be done from the attic side. However, sometimes it becomes necessary to install insulation from the inside.

If you have a similar situation, you need to prepare the following materials:

slab insulation;
wooden slats;
vapor barrier membrane.

Installation of insulation is carried out as follows:

if there is no flooring in the attic, it must be done. Boards or other material that is used as flooring should be fixed to the floor beams with nails or self-tapping screws;
then, from the side of the room, a vapor barrier membrane should be attached to the floor beams and flooring;
further, the space between the beams must be filled with heat-insulating plates. To fix them, you can fix the rails perpendicular to the beams. You can also nail studs to the lower side surfaces of the beams, and pull threads or wire between them;
after the insulation of the floor, it is necessary to fix another layer of vapor barrier;

then the crate is performed and the ceiling material is mounted. You can also make a frame and sheathe the ceiling with drywall.

Here, in fact, is all the information on how to properly insulate wooden house from within.

Conclusion

Having familiarized yourself with the technology, you can safely take on the insulation of a wooden house from the inside. As you can see, there is nothing complicated in this work. I recommend watching the video in this article. For any questions, you can contact me in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

Wall insulation in a wooden house from the inside must be done, of course. After all, penetrating moisture contributes to the destruction of wood and not only does the structure become unusable, but as a result of this, the room will be damp.

How to insulate the walls in a wooden house from the inside, we will consider today. Also on the video in this article and the photo you can see the whole process of doing the work clearly.

Preparation for the main types of work

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the inside is done according to certain rules and in compliance with the desired sequence. This will depend on the quality of the work performed.

Before starting work, it is necessary to take measurements and calculate the material. And so, it is necessary to make calculations for the further choice of insulating material, taking into account, among other things, its properties (see Material for insulating walls inside: characteristics). Do not forget that during such work, membranes are used (steam insulating and waterproofing).

When calculating, set:

Dew point output. This is one of the most important points in this type of work. Everything is explained very simply - how, in the end, it will be humid in the room, it directly depends on this, even in cases of high-quality material, and well-done work. The location of the membranes, and their properties (for different manufacturers they may differ), and of course the properties of the insulation (density, resistance to wetting) are taken into account.
Calculation of the total area of \u200b\u200bthe room, given that it will decrease. It may not turn out to be a comparison (an increase in slopes, and if there is a stove, the safe distance will change, between the wall and the stove, which is unacceptable, for fire safety).

Important: The need for work to establish the dew point is not discussed. It is an inseparable part that ultimately provides the meaning of the whole work. You need to understand - the humidity of the room depends on the location of the dew point, and humidity is rotting, smell, in the end - premature decay.

Rules for performing insulation work

Do-it-yourself wall insulation of a wooden house from the inside is done if there is quality materials. Preference should be given to trusted brands, you can save a little on Chinese material, but you will significantly lose in performance.

What is needed to carry out the work

Insulation of wooden walls from the inside is done with heaters, there are quite a few of them. But you need to start from the structure itself and what you want to get in the end.

By definition, the insulation must meet the requirements:

Have low thermal conductivity;
Meet the requirements of fire safety;
Comply with environmental and chemical safety standards.

Attention: When choosing a heater, the density and heat transfer qualities are determined, taking into account the place of its application, weather and temperature characteristics, as well as the state of the building itself.

The material used must not support combustion, emit hazardous compounds into the air, contain hazardous chemical elements. For internal works, the material is selected with great care, environmentally friendly and safe. This is important because - in a confined space, with constant contact, even a seemingly insignificant deviation from the norm can be dangerous, both for people and for pets.

Types and types of insulation materials

When deciding which method to use, you first need to decide what material will be used. This is interconnected, since the method and method directly depends on the type of material.

Of the possible methods used indoors - use:

Mineral wool	It comes in slabs and rolls of various densities. In fact, there is almost no difference in application. Any of these materials suggests - closed type application, that is, after laying, it must be closed (finishing material in the form of plates, sheets, boards and slats). Such a heater does not burn, is not toxic, has a low thermal conductivity. But he is afraid of moisture, which means that it is necessary to use insulating membranes (insulating films).
Foam boards (expanded polystyrene)	It is not recommended to use it indoors, due to possible toxic release (hydrogen cyanide, styrenes, etc.). It is possible to use extruded polystyrene foam, but such material is also designed for laying with subsequent closing.
glass wool	Relatively inexpensive material, slightly higher thermal conductivity than mineral wool(you will need a thicker layer). There is a special option for interior work, and with the obligatory use of films for covering. When working, it is also necessary to observe safety measures (protect the respiratory tract from small particles, use protective equipment). After laying, it is necessary to close.
Isoplet	This material is environmentally friendly, it consists of flax fibers and wood chips. Represents the pressed plates 12-25 mm thick. since this is a fairly rigid material, there is no need for a strong barrier (crate). Environmentally friendly, suitable for indoor applications. The disadvantage is a higher thermal conductivity, and the cost, at the same time, is higher than that of alternative materials.
polyurethane foam	It is used using special equipment, it does not burn itself, but at high temperatures, toxic substances are released. It consists of 2 main components, when mixed, it transforms into foam, reminiscent of construction. It is sprayed with a small layer of 3-5 cm (the total area is slightly reduced), with the addition of "additives", it becomes water-repellent. The price of work increases significantly due to the use of a special installation. After spraying, it must be closed.

Now let's figure out how to insulate wooden walls from the inside from a practical point of view.

Sealing gaps, preparing the surface for insulation

From the moment the building was built, during its operation, the wood dries out, the house “shrinks”, the constant movement of materials. As a result, gaps and cracks are formed that must be repaired to stop heat loss.

Joints between logs (or timber) - caulk. This is done available material, or the same as what was done before (tow, jute, sealant). As a result, heat loss must be stopped.

Buying or building a wooden Vacation home, its owners may soon be faced with the need to insulate it. There can be quite a few reasons for the low temperature inside a wooden house. Often this can be low-quality wood and insufficient thickness of the logs. Therefore, in order to somehow correct the situation, it will be necessary to insulate the wooden walls of the house. Work on the insulation of the walls of a wooden house is not particularly difficult, the main thing is to understand the technology of warming wooden walls.

Features of wooden wall insulation

Wood, due to its structure, has a number of unique qualities and requires a special approach in operation. Main Feature such a material as wood is its ability to "breathe". This means that wooden walls can themselves regulate the microclimate in the house. You should also remember the natural origin of logs, which are prone to mold and decay. It is the naturalness of wood that imposes certain restrictions on the materials and methods of warming a wooden house.

Let's start with materials for warming a wooden house. They must have the following characteristics:

high vapor permeability. Large or the same as wood 0.06 Mg/(m*h*Pa);
have high moisture resistance;
have high fire safety;
be resistant to fungus and mold.

According to these basic requirements, the following materials are most suitable for insulating wooden walls:

mineral wool;
ecowool;
sawdust granules.

In addition, facing bricks can also be used to insulate a wooden house, aerated concrete blocks, siding. Of course, stone in combination with insulation will create the most effective thermal insulation, but then you have to sacrifice the external beauty of a wooden house.

Important! But to use extruded polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, mounting foam, various sealants or polystyrene is strongly discouraged. These materials have extremely low vapor permeability, which in turn is fraught with the appearance of mold and fungi on the wooden walls, and ultimately rot.

When preparing for the insulation of wooden walls, special attention should be paid to the technology of creating a heat-insulating layer. The main rule that should be observed in this case is as follows: the vapor transmission capacity of each subsequent layer must be higher than the previous one, in the direction from the interior to the street. According to this simple truth, the thermal insulation of a wooden house is created, which is a multilayer cake. The structure of such a pie for wall insulation from the outside consists of battens and counter battens, thermal insulation, wind and moisture insulation. The internal insulation of wooden walls also obeys this rule, with the only difference being that vapor barrier is used instead of windproofing.

Important! If you can’t decide how best to insulate wooden walls, from the inside or outside, then the answer is definitely the same - you should choose the insulation of wooden walls from the outside. This is due to several reasons:

First, the interior living space of the house will be preserved.
Secondly, due to the properties of wood to accumulate and release moisture, external insulation is the most effective.
Thirdly, the external insulation of wooden walls is much easier to create.
Fourth, when external insulation the number of cold bridges is minimal.

Of course, the insulation of a wooden wall from the inside is also possible, but only if it is impossible to create external insulation.

Calculation of the insulation layer

Calculation of the optimal thickness of the insulation layer is one of the most important stages in the insulation of any house, especially a wooden one. This task must be approached with all responsibility, since an error in the calculations will at least entail unnecessary financial costs for insulation, and at the maximum will lead to damage to the wooden walls. Therefore, if you are not friends with formulas and calculations, it is better to contact specialists on this issue. We will consider an example of a calculation with comments and explanations, by which you can determine which layer of thermal insulation will be required for your home.

To perform calculations, you will need to refer to SNiP 23-02-2003 "Thermal protection of buildings", as well as TSN (territorial building codes). In these normative documents all necessary initial data for calculations and calculation methodology are given. The calculations themselves are based on the thermal resistance of materials, which is constant and taken separately for each region. For example, in the Moscow region, this figure is 4.15 (m2 * ° C) / W. It is also worth noting that the calculations should take into account the thermal resistance (R) of each material in the heat-insulating cake and sum them up. To perform calculations, the thermal conductivity of the materials used and their thickness are needed.

The formula for calculating thermal resistance is as follows: R = P/K.

Where P is the thickness of the material, K is the thermal conductivity of the material. For example, a wooden wall is finished with facing bricks on the outside, and a layer of mineral wool is placed between them. Then the total heat transfer resistance of such a wall will be equal to the sum of the resistances of each of the materials.

Based on the above formula, we will make a calculation for the thickness of the heat-insulating layer. The formula for calculating the following is P=R*K. We take data on thermal conductivity from the table of thermal conductivity of materials or from the packaging of the material used, and thermal resistance from regulatory documents.

For example, for Moscow and the region, the resistance to heat transfer is 4.15 (m2 * ° C) / W. If we insulate a wooden wall 20 cm thick with siding with mineral wool, then for wood the heat resistance is 0.806 (m2 * ° C) / W, and for mineral wool 0.045 (m2 * ° C) / W. Accordingly, the insulation layer must have a thermal resistance R=4.15-0.806-0.045=3.299 m2*°C.

Now we take the coefficient of thermal conductivity of mineral wool 0.41 W / m * K and multiply by the thermal resistance P \u003d 3.299 * 0.041 \u003d 0.135 m. Similarly, you can calculate the layer thickness for any other insulation in different regions of the country.

It remains to calculate the area of \u200b\u200binsulation and purchase all the materials necessary for this. First of all, it is mineral wool itself, wind and moisture protection, as well as vapor barrier. In addition, wooden slats with a thickness of 130x50 mm, a height equal to the height of the insulated wall, and fasteners for them will be required. As a fastener for wooden slats you can use ordinary long screws or metal corners with holes for screws. The number of rails is taken on the basis that the distance between them should be 2 - 5 cm less than the width of the insulation mats. Fasteners are purchased at the rate of 1 - 2 attachment points per 1 linear meter. We also purchase slats 50x30 mm or 50x20 mm for counter battens. The total number of such rails is taken from the calculation that the frame of the counter-lattice consists of 3 horizontal rows around the entire perimeter of the house.

As already noted, the insulation of wooden walls from the outside is the simplest and most affordable way insulation. Warming of a wooden house should begin in a year or two. This is important, since the tree shrinks during this time, which leads to a change in the height of the building. In addition, during shrinkage, new cracks will be found that will have to be well caulked.

Do-it-yourself warming of wooden walls from the outside is performed different ways. Consider the most common - mineral wool insulation with siding trim. The work takes place in several stages:

1. We check the walls for cracks and the tightness of the logs or beams to each other.

2. If necessary, we caulk all the cracks found.

3. First, we measure the total length of the wall from edge to edge. Then we break it into equal intervals 2-5 cm shorter than the mineral wool mat.

4. We apply markings under the crate on the wall.

5. We prepare the bars for the crate by cutting them to the required length.

6. First, we fix the bars around the perimeter of the wall. One above the foundation, one under the canopy and two along the edges.

7. In the resulting box, we first place and fix the frame around the window and doorways, and then the vertical bars of the crate according to the markings.

Important! If the length of one bar is not enough to cover the height of the wall, then the missing pieces must be placed in a checkerboard pattern in each subsequent rack. For example, the 1st rack consists of a long part from the bottom, a short part from the top, the 2nd rack - a short bar from the bottom, a long one from the top.

8. Now we take mineral wool mats and insert them between the frame posts. Since the distance between the bars is slightly less than the width of the mat, the mineral wool will be held inside in a spacer. To reduce the number of cold bridges, mineral wool can be laid in two layers. To do this, it is enough to buy mats of smaller thickness. For example, with a total insulation layer thickness of 13 cm, mats with a thickness of 50 mm or 70 mm can be used. In this case, each subsequent layer is laid with an offset relative to the first.

9. On top of the insulation we lay a layer of moisture and wind insulation from a superdiffusion membrane. We fix it to the frame with a stapler.

10. We fill the counter crate, thus creating a ventilation gap of 30 mm between the insulation and the finishing material.

11. At the end, the facade is finished with siding.

If it is planned to finish with facing bricks, then it is better to use ecowool granules or sawdust granules as a heater. These materials, when backfilled between wooden wall and lining will fill all the voids, thereby creating a reliable thermal insulation protection. Insulation of wooden walls outside with mineral wool with facing bricks is similar in technology to siding. The difference lies in the used finishing materials and the obligatory presence of a foundation for a brick.

As already noted, the insulation of wooden walls from the inside is quite rare. Usually this method of insulation is chosen when it is not possible to make external insulation. The technology for performing work is in many ways similar to external insulation, but there are a number of differences. Let us consider in more detail the stages and features of the work when insulating wooden walls from the inside:

1. After shrinking at home, we check them for cracks and carefully caulk them.

2. We drill small holes in the crowns for ventilation.

3. We mark the places for installing the counter-lattice.

4. We cut the bars for the counter-lattice and fix them to the wall. This will create a ventilated gap between the wall and the insulation, which in turn will keep the walls from rotting from the inside.

Important! Since the insulation will not be located over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe wall, the floor, internal walls and ceiling will be natural cold bridges. To block them, you will need to insulate the surface of the ceiling and floor. How it looks can be seen in the photo showing the internal insulation of wooden walls.

5. We sheathe the counter-lattice with a superdiffusion membrane and fix it to the bars with a stapler.

6. We mark the places for installing the main crate. We start from the corners and bring them to the center. At the same time, do not forget about door and window openings. In them, the bars will frame the opening around the perimeter.

7. First, we fix the bars along the perimeter of the wall, and then we install the vertical ones and into the openings. We take the distance between the bars 2 - 5 cm less than the insulation mats.

8. We take the insulation and insert it between the laths of the crate. As in the case of external insulation, we lay out the insulation in two layers with an offset to each other. Thus, we will eliminate possible cold bridges.

9. We lay a vapor barrier on top of the insulation and fix it to the racks with a stapler.

10. After the installation of the thermal insulation of the walls is completed, we insulate the ceiling and floor. This will allow you to get wall insulation behind the floor and eliminate possible cold bridges.

11. We sheathe the walls with drywall and carry out the finishing.

The method described above for insulating a wooden wall from the inside involves the use of mineral wool mats. In addition to it, you can also use ecowool granules or sawdust granules. But unlike external insulation, the granules will have to be blown into the space between the wall and the vapor barrier film, which is somewhat inconvenient and requires special equipment.

Performing work on the insulation of wooden walls requires only skillful handling of the tool. Of course, comparing external and internal insulation, one can note the complexity and exactingness of performing work inside the house. Therefore, if you do not have sufficient experience, it is better to opt for external insulation, and if it is impossible, turn to more experienced craftsmen.

Properly executed insulation of a wooden house can significantly save on heating, improve the microclimate in the house, and also extend the life of the log house. When the question arises about the thermal insulation of the walls of a wooden house, the first and most important point is the choice of the method of insulation - from the inside or outside. Most home owners choose external insulation, and this choice is absolutely right - the external insulation of a wooden house is more effective.

At internal insulation not only the useful area of the premises decreases, but also the dew point shifts inside the log house. Only the inner space is insulated, while the log house itself constantly experiences changes in humidity and temperature, freezes in winter, and rots in summer. The greatest destruction of the log house in this case occurs with inside covered with insulation.

External insulation protects not only the room from freezing, but also the log house itself. The dew point shifts to the outside, and condensation occurs outside wooden structures, under a ventilated facade, where moisture dries quickly.

Materials for warming a wooden house

As a heater for wooden houses, mats made of stone or mineral wool are most in demand. It is not recommended to use foam plastic for warming wooden structures, since it does not have vapor permeability and does not remove moisture vapor from the surface of the log house. Stone or mineral wool mats come in various thicknesses and densities. The denser the insulation, the easier it is to install and the longer it retains its performance characteristics. Soft and loose mats often slide down, disintegrate, forming dust that is harmful to health. Therefore, you should not save on high-quality insulation. Other advantages of stone or mineral wool include its incombustibility and unpopularity with rodents, unlike polystyrene.

In addition to insulation, two layers of film are needed: one is waterproofing and protects the log house from moisture penetration. It is laid on a protected wooden surface. This film must have vapor permeability and remove moisture from the log house through the insulation to the external environment. The second is wind and water protection, it is mounted on top of thermal insulation. The purpose of this layer is to protect the insulation from moisture from the external environment. Waterproofing mineral insulation is required, since when wetted, it loses its heat-insulating properties.

From the outside, the insulation is closed with any facing material With obligatory arrangement ventilation gap. Such a cladding is called a ventilated facade. Thanks to the air circulation between the cladding and the walls, the formation of fungus and mold is excluded, moisture is successfully removed from the insulation and all conditions are created for the long service life of the log house and the entire building.

The technology of warming a wooden house from the outside

The walls of a log or squared house are treated with an antiseptic in two layers, paying special attention to the lower crown and corners. The ends of the logs are impregnated with an antiseptic especially carefully, since they are most susceptible to decay. Processing is best done in warm, dry weather. After treatment, the walls are dried for 1-2 days.
The walls are fixed with staples and a waterproofing film with a vapor-permeable coating. This film has different coverage sides: glossy should be facing the insulation, and porous, capable of absorbing and removing moisture from the log house - to the wall. The joints of the film are overlapped and glued with special mounting tape. A vertical crate made of a bar is attached to the film, the thickness of the bar should correspond to the thickness of the insulation. The step of the crate is chosen 3-5 cm less than the width of the insulation mats. Laid by surprise, they will hold perfectly without additional fastening.
Heat-insulating mats are laid on the film between the bars, slightly pressing them. If necessary, mats are cut with an ordinary knife. If the mats are not hard enough and do not hold well inside the frame, you can perform a temporary filing by fixing them with slats. The mats are finally fixed with anchor nails. If it is necessary to lay several layers of thermal insulation, the next layer of mats is laid with offset seams so that the upper mats overlap the joints of the lower ones. All work on laying mineral wool mats must be carried out in protective gloves and a respirator.
On top of the insulation, a hydro-wind-protective membrane film is attached to the staples. The waterproofing surface must face the outside. The joints are overlapped and glued with adhesive tape.
Installing a hydro-windproof membrane film over the insulation using a stapler
A ventilated frame is required on top of the film. It is also made of bars, providing a distance of at least 5 cm between the layer of insulation covered with wind protection and the decorative facade. The bars are attached to the lower frame with self-tapping screws, and if the walls are not even enough, then perforated hangers for the profile are used, allowing you to adjust the distance to the frame. Under sheathing with metal siding or corrugated board, you can use a drywall profile instead of a bar.
The casing is fixed according to the technology recommended by the manufacturer. For cladding, you can use vinyl siding, metal profiles, block house or imitation timber. When cladding, make sure that there are no gaps through which moisture can penetrate into the facade.

An additional measure to protect a wooden house is the insulation of the foundation and basement. It can be produced using or, as well as by spraying polyurethane foam. A ventilated facade or cladding is also mounted on top of the insulation layer. decorative stone or brick.

Insulation of a wooden house from the inside using, among other things, is a necessary set of measures in order to increase the level of comfort when living in it.

When insulating the roof, ceiling, attic and floor, in most cases one technology is used. In this case, thermal insulation can be provided with mineral wool or foam.

1 Insulation of the walls of a country house from the inside

Before you start warming the walls in a wooden house with your own hands, you should thoroughly clean all surfaces from dust and dirt. If the house is made using timber, then thermal insulation can be provided with foam or mineral wool.

Before that wooden surfaces country house, including the surface of the ceiling, the ribs of the timber, the walls of the attic, and the inner surface of the roof, must be subjected to detailed treatment with a special insect repellent emulsion. All insulation work of a country wooden house, brought inside with your own hands, consists of:

Caulking of cracks in the walls of the attic, the surface of the ceiling and inside the roof, as with;
Creation of a vapor barrier for the floor using timber;
Lathing installation;
Laying insulation and ensuring the sealing of the roof of a country house;
creations ventilation system between the walls of the attic;
Internal finishing works for the preparation of beams, ceilings and roofs.

In addition, with the internal insulation of the walls of a wooden country house made of timber with your own hands, you need to carefully monitor the condition of the electrical wiring.

For example, if the walls of a country house are made using timber, and the technology involves wiring surface wiring on the walls of the attic, then it does not have to be separated from the wall surface.

To do this, it is enough to hide the wiring in special decorative casings. Inside them, the wiring will be safe.

After the walls are cleaned and the thermal insulation is prepared, it is necessary to caulk all the existing cracks.

Caulking is carried out not only on the surface of the walls of the attic, but also in the inner surface of the roof. It is known that in the case when a house is built using a beam, the floor, attic walls and the inner surface of the roof are re-caulked only a year after the building is put into operation. .

In the case when people immediately began to live in a house built from a bar, drying the ceiling, floor and inner surface of the roof will be much slower.

Based on this, it makes sense to carry out the second caulking in at least 2-3 years. By the way, for caulking the walls of a house made of timber with your own hands, in most cases, jute fiber is used.

After that, you should proceed to the insulation of the walls with foam or minata. Inner surface the ceiling and roof (in the attic) can also be insulated with foam plastic with your own hands.

2 Creating a vapor barrier

When insulating a wooden house with your own hands, an extremely important point is the creation of a vapor barrier inside the walls of the attic.

This is because the space inside wooden base The attic wall consists of those bars that are locked between two heat insulators.

In this case, the humidity level in the rooms will certainly increase, which will lead to the appearance of a "thermos effect" in the space from the ceiling to the roof.

This will lead to the fact that the entire structure will stop "breathing". Excess moisture is eliminated by ventilation.

The main thing is not to allow the tree to become damp, while slow decay of the entire structure may begin. To avoid this, before starting the installation of the heat insulator, the entire surface of the wall to be insulated must be equipped with a vapor-water-proofing film.

When implementing installation work as in the case of creation associated with the crate on the bearing walls made using timber, an additional metal profile is installed.

This is especially true when finishing and vapor barrier will be made with the participation of moisture-resistant drywall.

After that, a strip of mineral wool is located inside, in the space between the bars. And its layers will join the base of the wall with the help of anchors equipped with enlarged round caps. A second layer of vapor barrier film is laid on top of the insulation.

2.1 Creation of ventilation insulation of walls with foam plastic

A well-designed ventilation system should not have direct outdoor hoods in its communications.

Most suitable option- this is a combination of a system into one circuit through the communications of the ceiling and the attic.

This is done through ventilation ducts. Any axial fan with a low or medium power rating can be used as a supercharger.

When activating the ventilation system using winter time of the year for half an hour, you can influence the parameter of optimal air humidity.

Inside, the second layer of vapor barrier film is attached to the bars with staples. construction stapler. After the bar is installed, it should be sheathed with a clapboard made of wood.

This will give the room a certain degree of aesthetic appeal and insulate its contour. In addition, it is desirable to finish the room inside with a vertically located planken.

In addition, the walls can be insulated from the inside with foam. It makes sense to start installation work with the selection suitable sizes sheets. They can be much thinner than with the behavior of external insulation work. Styrofoam is different:

Simplicity and ease of installation;
Low degree of thermal conductivity;
High soundproofing characteristics;
Long operational period.

When the internal walls of a wooden house are insulated with material such as penofol, convection and significant heat loss through the cracks will stop forever due to the fact that the caulking was produced poorly.

If the timber will have a relatively small thickness, then frost formation will not be observed in the corners and on the walls of the house in the winter season. When using foam, the space of the room from floor to ceiling will warm up quickly enough.

2.2 Floor insulation

Beyond the set obvious benefits, in the event that the wooden floor is insulated, the level of heat loss in the house will significantly (up to 20 percent) decrease. That's an example.

The most simple and sufficient effective method floor insulation is associated with the use of mineral wool as a heater.

The technology of insulation using mineral wool is quite simple and not expensive. Particularly relevant is the insulation of the floor with mineral wool in the case when it is mounted directly on the surface of the soil.

The choice of a type of heat insulator directly correlates with the features of the arrangement of the floor. So, if the laid insulation will not be subjected to regular technical loads, it is recommended to opt for a mineral wool with a density of 50 kg / m3.

If the load on the slabs is carried out with a periodic frequency, then the limiting density of the min-slab can reach 160 kg / m3.

In this case, the material is not mounted with fasteners, but is laid freely. Another option for warming a wooden floor is associated with the use of foam.

First you will need to dismantle the old coating. After that, you need to take care of installing a waterproofing layer.

For this purpose, polyethylene can be used. After that, you can start applying penoplex, which is characterized by low hygroscopicity.

In some cases, it is possible to insulate the floor of a wooden house using foam boards. You can use for this one of its varieties - expanded polystyrene, which is a fairly relevant heat-insulating material.

The whole process begins with the fact that a gravel cushion is formed on the ground, the thickness of which can reach 30-40 centimeters. This layer is thoroughly compacted, after which cleaned sand is poured on top with a layer of 10 centimeters.

2.3 Ceiling insulation

Currently, despite the colossal abundance of insulation materials in the modern construction market, a large number of homeowners prefer to insulate the floors in a wooden house the old fashioned way - with sawdust.

This method is primarily characterized by its high environmental friendliness parameter and relative cheapness.

However, the work associated with the presented material is quite troublesome. In addition, this method requires some preliminary preparation.

For example, sawdust must be carefully treated with an antiseptic before starting insulation in order to avoid the appearance of mold.

Sawdust should also be sprayed with a flame retardant in order to improve their fire-resistant qualities, as with. Before backfilling, this material must undergo a long drying.

And in order to prevent rodents from climbing into the insulation, it must be diluted with fluffy lime. This mixture must be poured into the voids formed.

Moreover, its layer can reach a height of 20 centimeters. For floor insulation, such modern materials, like mineral wool, polyplex, expanded clay and foil-type polyethylene foam.

It is not bad to use such alternative heaters as glassine. It can cover foam boards.

Insulation of a wooden house from the inside - layout of materials

When choosing one or another material, special attention is paid to the financial capabilities of the owner of a wooden house. Based on this, you should decide on the price segment in which this or that heater is located.