Do-it-yourself manhole for sewerage. Sewer wells: complete classification and examples of arrangement

The owners of private houses most often have to independently equip local treatment facilities on their site. It is cheaper and easier to install sewer wells in the form of a conventional cesspool or sealed storage. A well-arranged treatment or collection point will do the job perfectly. Do you agree?

Here you will find out what materials are used in the construction of treatment facilities and storage tanks for independent sewage. We have described in detail the technologies for constructing typical sewer wells. Based on our recommendations, it will be easier for you to decide on the best option in terms of price and effort.

Often, there is simply no centralized sewerage system in the private sector with low-rise buildings. And household waste must be disposed of, not poured onto the ground. For this purpose, they construct autonomous system sewerage, including the inner and outer part.

The internal sewerage system collects effluents from plumbing fixtures, and its outer part is intended for their disposal or accumulation for the purpose of subsequent pumping out by sewers. The recipient of wastewater on the street is the end point of the export local treatment system.

If there is no general sewerage network in the village, then one cannot do without a cesspool or sewage storage near a private house

Fecal effluents in the sewer well are clarified, resulting in the formation of partially purified water and suspensions. In case of cesspool the first is drained into the ground, and the second is decomposed by microorganisms to a state of biologically safe sludge.

If the option with a storage tank is chosen, then sewage is simply collected in an airtight container, and as it is filled, they are pumped out with the involvement of a sewage machine.

Distance between draining cesspool bottom and layer ground water must be at least a meter, otherwise the purified water will have nowhere to go

Requirements for the arrangement of such facilities

All sewerage must be installed according to a pre-developed plan, which indicates the layout of all elements of the system and the building materials used. Its outer part in the case under consideration consists of a pipe draining from the house and treatment plant.

The design and installation of sewer wells is regulated in the following regulatory documents:

If you do not comply with the requirements specified in them, then the sewage system after assembly may simply be inoperative.

When choosing a site for a treatment structure on the site, one should not forget about the need to leave free access to it, even a draining cesspool must be cleaned from accumulated sludge from time to time

Structurally, the sewer well consists of:

• necks with a lid or hatch;
• shafts in the middle part (working chamber);
• bottom (draining or sealed, depending on the option chosen for installation).

Even the same type of elements of this design can vary greatly in size and shape. Much depends on the material of manufacture and design features treatment plant, as well as the volume of the tank.

What can be used to build a sewer well?

A well construction can be made from a variety of building materials.

When choosing the best option, you need to consider:

1. Climatic conditions of the area (maximum possible and average temperatures, total amounts of rainwater and snow).
2. Soil characteristics (freezing depth, composition and GWL).
3. Features of the relief of the site.

If the soils are very heaving, then the sewerage well should be made of the most durable building materials. And for wet soils, you will have to select the most moisture-resistant option.

The most inexpensive and fastest installation is the construction of reinforced concrete rings, however, to install them in an excavated pit, you will need to order a crane

With your own hands, a sewer well can be easily made from:

• brick and stone;
• monolithic concrete;
• reinforced concrete rings;
• prefabricated plastic structures
• old tires.

The cheapest at self-assembly it will cost either a septic tank assembled from factory or home-made concrete rings.

But in the first case, you will have to tinker with masonry, and in the second, you will need lifting equipment. Lower heavy concrete products manually into the pit is not recommended; if they are torn off and hit hard, they can collapse.

It will be possible to make only a sewer well with drainage from a brick, it is extremely difficult and expensive to ensure complete tightness of brick walls

The concrete monolithic option will require the arrangement of the formwork and the preparation of the mortar. If the latter is ordered already mixed in a concrete mixer, this will lead to a serious increase in the cost of work.

Structures made of plastic (polyethylene or PVC), fiberglass and polymer sand are quite expensive. But they are durable and extremely easy to install with your own hands. Such products weigh a little, a couple of people are enough for their installation.

A very cheap sewer well will come out of used tires. They cost a penny in a tire shop, or you can collect tires in a landfill for free. But here the same problem as in the case of a brick.

It is extremely problematic to make such a structure airtight, and it is almost impossible to repair it. you can arrange one of them, but the drive is no longer there.

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Choosing the location and volume of the tank

When installing a sewer well, observe whole line sanitary and building requirements. Failure to do so increases the risk of biological contamination. The situation can be brought to an outbreak of infections, which threatens the owner of the cottage with serious problems.

Installation of a sewer well should be carried out at a distance from:

• fruit-bearing trees and beds of 3 m;
• foundations of buildings on a personal plot of 4–5 m;
• roads and underground utilities (gas, water, electricity) 5 m;
• wells for drinking water and reservoirs in 30 m.

A slight deviation from these figures is possible only when installing a sealed storage tank or when constructing a cesspool with powerful concrete walls with reliable external waterproofing.

In the case of an absorption well, water that has passed a multilayer filter of sand and gravel should fall into the underlying layers of the soil away from buildings, communications, drinking wells, all types of reservoirs and private pools.

Distances should be observed in order not to change the composition of groundwater for the worse, not to pollute water bodies with insufficient cleaning and not to wash out the underlying base from under building structures and engineering networks.

However, if the well structure for sewerage is removed too far from the house, then the pipeline between them will have to be arranged every 10-15 meters, which will lead to considerable additional expenses. But this will have to be done, otherwise, if the pipe is clogged, you will have to open the soil in order to clean it corny.

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Today, many people are thinking about how to make a sewer well. Especially often this desire arises during the construction of a new house. In order to do everything, you do not need to contact some workers. You can make a sewer well with your own hands, thus saving your money.

What needs to be done first?

Of course, choose a place where everything will be located. Here you need to take into account not only some of your personal preferences, but also sanitary norms. After all, you need to understand that later you will need pipe laying. Study the SNIP properly before starting work. Between two manholes there should not be a distance of more than 15 meters. Be sure to see what distances still need to be observed. Please note that there should not be any swivel pipes without swivel equipped wells. And without observing the distances, it may turn out that drinking water will also enter the system.

Carrying out calculations

Many people wonder how to make a sewer well with their hands. But there is no universal answer here, it all depends on your specific case. For example, if you choose a large funded option, you will not lose. It doesn't need to be cleaned that often. Yes, and Ilosos will need to be called from case to case. Another sewer well from the rings is relevant.

Much depends on the number of people living on the site. For example, each person should have about 150 liters of wastewater. If this is a family of four, then about 700 liters will be needed. But here everything is individual, it depends on what household appliances you will use.

What hygiene standards should be taken into account?

It is primarily decided whether the well will be airtight. It all depends on the volume. If the flow is more than one cubic meter, then the answer should be positive. Otherwise, you will have to carefully work on the cleaning system. Otherwise, harmful bacteria will enter the soil, and from there directly into the food.

If you are making a sealed version, then be sure to concrete the walls. The same applies to the bottom. After the concrete comes a layer of sealant. But you can simplify this process using a specialized container. It should be understood that the hermetic version will require much more serious financial investments in materials. In addition, you will have to pay money for waste disposal. So think well. It is possible that the option with a small drain is suitable for you.

How is a sewer well created in a private house?

Must see detailed photos, videos and drawings to help you navigate without problems. First, dig a hole of the size you need. If it is large, then you can order an excavator. Special equipment will save you a lot of time and nerves. Keep in mind that about 40 cm of the bottom will have to be covered with rubble. This is important in order not to contaminate wastewater. This process can not only cause terrible diseases, but also cause fines.

Now choose the materials for making the well. It can be plastic, wood, concrete, bricks. Now they should equip the bottom. You can do everything under a slight slope especially for the future hatch. After the walls are placed, a sewer pipe is carried out. The walls must be covered with sealant. An overlap with a hatch is installed, and the top is filled with waterproofing material. The ventilation pipe is installed at a distance of about 60 cm above the soil. Ventilation must not be ignored. It is designed not just for better cleaning, it is an essential safety requirement.

What to do next?

Now you can test your new sewer. It is advisable at this stage to consult with a specialist how often you will have to call a vacuum truck. No matter how small your well is, sooner or later you will have to use the services of workers. If you already feel after construction unpleasant odors, then just use various chemical or biological agents. True, they have one drawback. They are ineffective at a temperature of +5 degrees Celsius. Happy building!

Video of the construction of sewerage at their summer cottage

Do-it-yourself sewer well - rules and methods of device If you are building new house or decided to improve the old one, one of the main tasks will be the installation of communications that provide comfortable living. Since it is impossible without a properly designed drainage system, the question will arise - how to make a sewer well with your own hands. If you want to save money and do not plan to involve a contractor in this work, then before starting it, you should study all the norms and rules for sewerage for a private house. They are contained in SNiPs, which are quite difficult for people who are not related to the construction business to understand, so we suggest that you just read this article carefully. Rules for the construction of sewer wells Before you start doing something, you need to decide on the place for the well, its volume and depth. To do this, you will need to draw at least a primitive sewerage scheme from the exit from the house to the well, which will also help you calculate the required amount of materials required. Sanitary requirements When choosing a place for a sewer septic tank or a cesspool, the location of the water intake points should first be taken into account. And not only on their site, but also on neighboring ones. If contaminated sewage seeps into the aquifer and from there into the well, it can cause serious illness. The type of soil also matters - how permeable it is. The instruction requires compliance with the following distances between sewer and water wells: For sandy soils - at least 50 meters; With clay - at least 20 meters. Having determined the places on your site that meet these requirements, you can decide which one is more convenient to locate the structure, taking into account the distance to the house and the position of the outlet point of the internal sewer system. Technical requirements The first thing you should know is that you can not place the structure closer than three meters from the foundation of the house. The ideal distance is 8-12 meters in a straight line. But it is not always possible to withstand it: the layout and topography of the site may not allow this. In such cases, when building a sewer well with your own hands, you must follow the following rules: If the length of the sewer pipeline is very large, manholes must be installed on it. The first - at a distance of 3 to 12 meters from the outlet from the house, the next - every 15 meters. They are necessary to control the operation of the system and facilitate its cleaning if necessary. If the pipeline has turns or is connected to one common line of two or more outlets, a rotary well is installed at such nodes. It is also used as a lookout. If the terrain does not allow laying a pipe with minimal slope, a differential well is being built, which makes it possible to ensure an acceptable speed of movement of effluents. It is important! It should be explained why the speed at which sewage flows through pipes is so important. If it is very small, a plug may occur in the pipe, which will clog the lumen. If it is too large, then the liquid will drain quickly, not having time to entrain solid fractions with it, which again will lead to the formation of congestion. Water flows into the sewer well by gravity, which is provided by the slope of the pipe. With a diameter of 100 mm, it should be 2 cm for each running meter, if the diameter is 50 mm, the slope is one and a half times more - 3 cm per linear meter. That is, the farther the well is located from the outlet, the deeper it should be, since the entrance to it will be lower. By drawing a sewerage scheme on a scale with the correct slope of the pipeline, you will receive this mark, after which you can calculate the depth and volume of the container. For reference. The volume is calculated based on the number of people living in the house, each of which accounts for about 150 liters of waste per day, the type of well and the frequency of its emptying. Types of drain wells It can be accumulative or filtering. In any case, it is a working container with a closed hatch, the difference lies in the bottom device. So: Accumulative is designed to collect sewage, which, as it is filled, is pumped out cesspool machine(ilososom) and exported. It must be completely sealed. In the filtering liquid seeps into the lower layers of the soil, where it is gradually cleared, passing through its layers, so it is made without a bottom and is installed on a filtering layer of gravel, broken brick or crushed stone. It has to be pumped out less often. Attention! At high level groundwater, the device of a filtering well without preliminary treatment of wastewater is unacceptable. There is also a more advanced design of sewer wells - a septic tank, in which stepwise wastewater treatment takes place, but it must be designed and installed by specialists. How to build a sewer well yourself Many private developers decide to deal with the sewerage device on their own, since this is not the most difficult task, and the cost savings are decent. Stages of work Since the average depth is 4-6 meters, it is better to dig a pit under it with an excavator to reduce labor costs and save time. The diameter of the pit must be greater than the outer diameter of the well (or its linear dimensions with a rectangular or square shape) at least 30-40 cm. If you decide to do storage capacity from reinforced concrete rings, rubble stone or brick, the sequence of work is as follows: Digging a trench for the pipeline and excavation; Preparation of the base by backfilling a layer of crushed stone at the bottom and ramming it; Filling the bottom with concrete; For reference. You can do it easier and lay a finished reinforced concrete slab on the bottom of the pit. Installing rings or laying brick walls. The seams between the rings are sealed with cement mortar, brick walls are also plastered with it; Input inlet device drain pipe. After its installation, the injection site is also carefully sealed; Note. The inlet pipe should protrude 5-8 cm into the well. Insulation of the outer walls with tar or a layer of greasy clay; backfilling soil with its compaction; Laying a floor slab with a hatch; Installation ventilation pipe to prevent the accumulation in the well of explosive gases released during the decomposition of organic matter. It should rise above ground level by at least 60-70 cm. A filter well is built in the same way, with the only difference that the bottom under it is not completely filled, but only under the walls so that they do not rest on the ground, but on a concrete base. In addition, at the bottom of the first ring they make their way drainage holes, and outside is backfilling of rubble. In the case of brick construction, holes are left immediately in the lower rows of masonry. Plastic wells It is much easier to use ready-made containers made of durable and frost-resistant plastic. Perhaps the price of the products themselves will be higher than the cost of reinforced concrete rings, but you can save time and effort, as well as money, without calling a manipulator to install heavy and bulky structures in the pit. Plastic wells are lightweight and you can handle it yourself. They are produced in different volumes and diameters, with ready-made inlets for pipes, so you will not have any difficulties with their selection and installation. In addition to low weight and ease of installation, plastic wells have the following advantages: Absolute tightness, which will allow you not to engage in insulation work and not worry about possible leaks; Resistant to both very low and high temperatures; Resistance to aggressive environments; High strength and, as a result, durability. They will not require any repairs throughout the entire period of operation. Finishing work The finished well is completely covered with earth to prevent freezing. Only the hatch remains open. There should always be free access to it, and there should be access roads for silosos nearby. It remains only to think about how to fit this element, necessary for a comfortable life, but not too attractive, into the landscape of the site, especially if it is located in an open place. Make it simple. Now on sale there are special decorative covers for well hatches in the form of a large boulder or a removable flower bed. You can arrange an alpine slide around the hatch or install light wooden or wire frame for climbing plants. There are many options, it is enough to turn on the fantasy. Conclusion From all that has been said, we can draw an unambiguous conclusion: our comfort is in our hands, and if desired, it can be achieved without spending extra money and physical strength. If we talk specifically about the device of individual sewerage on the site, then the easiest way is to assemble it from finished products - plastic pipes, connecting elements and different kind wells.

In the general system of underground communications, sewer manholes play one of the key roles. The article reveals the schemes of wells, their structure, types and features of the installation of structures.

The sewer system is a complex engineering organism, consisting of many elements that ensure the smooth operation of the entire network. According to their purpose, observation chambers are divided into:

1. To linear.
2. For turning.
3. And nodal.

Inspection sewer wells are one of the main technical structures, with the help of which industry specialists can perform their functional duties: check the operability of the collector, and, if necessary, clean the pipes.

These facts indicate that the sewer manhole is a control point for the coordinated operation of systems. This fully applies to underground utilities.

Locations by destination

The installation of revision cameras is regulated by construction documents. According to SNiP, viewing points are mounted in places of turns, as well as slopes when changing the linear pipeline. And at the junction of the central line of additional taps.

The withdrawal of sewer systems for residents of the private sector is possible when installing viewing chambers. The diameter of the installed pipe is directly affected by the distance of its laying (linear section).

With a pipeline length of up to 35 meters, elements with a diameter of 150 mm are used. There is an inverse relationship. For example, if the diameter of the pipes included in common system pipeline 150 meters, then according to the conditions of installation, after 35 meters there should be a manhole. industrial system control may be fundamentally different from analogues mounted in the private sector.

Features of sewerage wells of various types

The structure of the sewer well is a round, rectangular or polygonal shape, consisting of:

1. From the base.
2. Tray.
3. Working chamber.
4. And the neck and hatch.

The basis technical design includes a tray, which is made of concrete, grade 200 using formwork. Although, this is not the only option. Production is possible from brick, reinforced concrete blocks or rubble stone.

Consider the device

The inspection shaft kit includes a certain set of working elements:

1. Reinforcing frame, which can be square or round. A staircase is installed inside the structure.
2. The bottom of the structure is a smooth lower floor. It is possible to equip it with profiles for channels.
3. Upper floor, where a hole for the hatch is provided.
4. Working (protective) hatch. It can be in the form of a circle or a square. A marking is applied to its outer part, indicating the type of well.

The main material of the reinforcing frame is reinforced concrete. The reinforcing frame is mounted using concrete rings. The bottom is a round slab.

The bottom of sewer wells can be filled with concrete mortar, which is supplied at the base of the formwork object.

A hatch is provided in the upper part of the structure.

Thanks to modern technologies, sewage wells can be made from other materials. Assembly observation structure, is possible not only from reinforced concrete.

The main working element and competitor of reinforced concrete products is plastic. Separately, it must be said about the hatches, which are of great importance. They may be:

1. Cast iron.
2. Steel.
3. Polymer.

Naturally, steel hatches are more durable than other elements. If the viewing object is located on a highway or road with heavy traffic, a metal hatch or a cast-iron grate is laid in this place.

Types of sewer manholes

Shafts or chambers that are mounted above a pipeline that drains water are classified according to their internal structure:

• as control;
• filtering;
• front type;
• as storage devices.

Regardless of the type and / or purpose, they are all included in the project (design and estimate documentation) of the object. The drawing of the sewer well is carried out by specialists of the design organization based on the specified technical characteristics.

Appointment of sewer manholes

The nodal type of the inspection shaft is provided at the junction of several pipelines. The connection of the sewer line with the tray is performed by a smooth rounding. Wells designed for inspection on large collectors are called connecting chambers.

The structure in question is mounted on a straight section of the laid working network and acts as a point for inspection and maintenance of the system. The working distance is primarily determined by the diameter of the laid pipe. Based on the indicators:

1. up to 155 mm - 3500 mm;
2. from 200 mm to 450 mm - 500 m;
3. from 500 mm to 600 mm - 750 m;
4. from 700 mm to 900 mm - 100 m;
5. from 1000 mm to 1400 mm - 150 m;
6. from 1500 mm to 2000 mm - 200 m;
7. more than 2000 mm - 250000-300 m.

It is allowed to increase the working distance between viewing objects up to 10%, no more. Collectors intended for the transit of water flow, the diameter of which does not exceed 2 thousand millimeters, it is allowed to increase inter / well distances up to 300 meters.

Watch the video

A rotary well for sewerage is mounted on sections of the pipeline in order to change the direction of the network section. In this case, the angle of rotation must be more than 45 0 (degrees).

To reduce high hydraulic pressure between the outlet and the connected pipe, the working angle must be at least 90 0 (degrees). From 1 to 5 pipes are laid in the turning radius, where the tray has a smooth curvature. Its purpose: cleaning the intake pipes from possible blockages.

Sewer drop well

It can be of five types:

• shaft outlets are carried out up and down;
• in the form of a glass;
• with vertical water damper;
• multistage option;
• with corner overflow channel.

Brick sewer well includes:

1. Bottom, with a single-level highway.
2. Walls.
3. Open tray.
4. Cover plate.
5. Protective hatch.
6. Also, wall brackets.

For work and descent of service personnel, the diameter of the device must be more than 1 meter.

Installation of concrete rings

More details about.

Initially, a foundation pit is dug according to the conditions of excavation for the pipeline. After completing the excavation work, the bedding is laid, which is formed from crushed stone of a large or medium fraction.

The bedding thickness is about 1500 mm. This element makes it possible to resist subsidence of the entire structure.

After carrying out the above measures, a layer of hydraulic insulation is mounted. It can be a roll or a sheet. The formwork for the tray is superimposed on the insulating layer. It is possible to install a ready-made plate.

The next stage is the transition to the construction of the mine. Wells made of concrete are assembled in a zero pit, where working elements have not yet been installed.

Watch the video

Rings are laid on cement screeds. Hatches are installed in ready-made holes. After the complete assembly of the structure, the pit is covered with soil.

Requirements for the installation of sewer structures

Installation is carried out in strict accordance with SNiP and is regulated by GOST No. 2080 90, which says that sharp turns of the system gasket should not be allowed. It is necessary to observe the angles of the inlet and outlet pipes.

1. Working elements are made of fine-grained concrete in compliance with the recommended standards.
2. The tank must be equipped with reinforcing rods in order to evenly distribute the load and consist of reinforcing wire.
3. Before installation, it is necessary to prepare a working scheme and carry out preparatory work, which includes clearing the site, removing vegetation, including trees.

Plastic sewer inspection buildings

Plastic products are becoming more and more popular. They are distinguished by ease of assembly and environmentally friendly materials used in the manufacture of structures.

Watch the video

It is important that plastic is a durable working material. The depth of the sewer well made of plastic can be different. Therefore, the selection of the necessary design will not cause problems for the buyer. In addition, the cost of the complex is more attractive compared to the traditional concrete product.

Self-installation of viewing structures

Yes, this option is possible. But, do-it-yourself installation is associated with certain costs and volume preparatory work which you can hardly do on your own. . This may be due to the nature of the structure, the occurrence of groundwater and the structure of the working area.

The principle of work does not differ from laying in an industrial way. There are many instructional videos on the Internet. Enough technical literature. Therefore, it makes no sense, in detail, to dwell on this issue.

Finally

Summing up, the following can be noted. There are many designs different type and appointments. In the issue of installation, the testimony of many services is laid, and the best option is selected.

Initially, paperwork will be performed: a drawing is created and the installation of the structure, which can be made from different materials, is carried out according to it.

Watch the video

Note that in the private sector, ready-made options made of plastic are increasingly being used. Self-installation of structures is allowed, subject to the specifications and SNiP, taking into account existing GOSTs.

Being the owner of your own suburban area and not having your own well is probably not the most good option. Yes, of course, some holiday villages are equipped with a centralized water supply system, but it’s still better to be completely independent of the “whims” of public utilities. The well will also become a source of clean drinking water, and will satisfy all household needs, and will provide irrigation of the garden plot, but only if it will be configured correctly.

— materials and tools for waterproofing works.

Most modern wells are made of reinforced concrete rings. It is best to purchase such products that have a “quarter” locking part for centered and tight fit of the rings to each other. Standard size rings – 1000 mm – inner diameter, 1160 - external, wall thickness - 80 mm, maximum height - 900 mm. Such a product (KS-10-9) weighs 600 kg. If necessary, you can purchase rings of the same diameter, but of a lower height - 300, 500 or 600 mm. There are holes on the walls of such rings for inserting slings when hanging them and lowering them into the shaft.

You should immediately warn against the purchase of low-quality, illiquid rings that are damaged or have already been in operation. Such savings here are not only inappropriate, but can also be dangerous, since the practice of arranging wells knows many cases of rupture, distortion, bursting of rings with all possible consequences.

How many rings are needed is an individual question for each specific place. It is worth asking the neighbors how deep their well is, this figure should not change much. At the same time, the very design of the well is taken into account - the height of the aquifer itself, the trunk and the head.

Digging a well and installing rings

• Work begins with markings on the surface of the soil. For these purposes, as well as to control compliance with the dimensions of future penetration, it is necessary to build a simple device - a crosspiece of two rails, with a length equal to the required shaft diameter.

Cross - a template for further work

If the ring has an outer diameter of 1160, then the shaft should be marked approximately 200 - 300 mm wider, i.e. Ø from 1350 to 1450 mm with the open method of constructing a well (more on this below). At closed method leave the minimum required clearance - so that the ring passes into the shaft without distortion.

• Take off upper layer soil with sod and begin to go deep into dense layers of soil.

All selected land must be at least 3 meters from the pit from the place of work. You can even immediately take it away, for example, to a place where it is planned to build an "alpine hill". When the clay layer begins, it is better to store the selected clay separately - it will come in handy in the future for waterproofing the well.

• After having gone deep to the height of the first ring, a tripod or other structure is installed on which lifting mechanisms are mounted, and further work can be scheduled in different ways:

1. You can install exactly the first ring and continue to dig under it - it will fall under its own weight.

As the subsidence proceeds, the next ring is installed on the first one, and they are fastened together with staples - and so on up to the aquifer. This method is called "closed", and is more relevant on problematic, quicksand soils, with quicksand, underground "rivers", etc. Thus, the excavator always works in concrete ring, which descends along with it as the soil is sampled.

This method is not considered optimal, as it has many disadvantages. So, a big boulder that has fallen under the wall of the ring can become a big problem when driving - it will not be easy to pull it out, and sometimes even impossible. But on the other hand, for the installation of the next rings, complex lifting equipment is not required, since it is always carried out at the top.

2. The second method is called "open" and involves digging the shaft to the entire required depth, followed by the installation of rings. Disadvantages - a much larger volume of soil to be selected, difficulties with mounting and fastening rings (work is carried out at a considerable depth), there is always a danger of shedding or even collapse of the walls of the mine, especially when unstable aquifers begin or a quicksand breaks through the wall - a source of "top water" .

3. Proceeding from the false, the mixed method will probably be optimal. Work in progress at first open method, but before the first sign of wall instability or the appearance of signs of perched water. Then, reinforced concrete rings are immediately lowered to the excavated depth, and further excavation is carried out according to a closed technology, with the deposition of a built-up well shaft. Most often, this approach is used in practice.

• The work becomes more complicated when the aquifer is reached - according to the rules, it is necessary to settle the trunk for at least one more, and preferably two rings. Often it is necessary to provide a constant pumping of incoming water. Before entering this layer, the joints of the lower rings are immediately subject to sealing with special cement-containing formulations.

• The extension of the well shaft is carried out in such a way that the upper ring protrudes approximately 500 mm above ground level. In the future, this head can be made out in a log house or in another way, a crank mechanism is arranged above it for lifting the bucket.

Video: methods of digging wells from reinforced concrete rings

After the well is completely torn off throughout the depth, it is necessary to pump out all the water and silt from it in order to arrange a bottom filter.

Well bottom filter

Without this element, the water in the well will not have the purity that the owner probably expects. The keys beating at the bottom of the well can raise turbidity, sand, and in the case of quicksand (the current sand is extremely saturated with water), it will simply overgrow and become shallow very quickly.

The choice of a bottom filter depends on the state of the bottom - what kind of soil forms it:

• If the bottom is dense clay through which springs flow, then, as a rule, the water will be clean, and there is not even a need for a bottom filter. Moreover, its installation can even reduce the debit of the well. Light turbidity, if any, will be easy to eliminate with a conventional household filtration system.
• If the bottom is formed by soft clay, then it will be constantly eroded by incoming water flows. The water becomes unnecessarily turbid, and its intake is only possible from the upper layer. To eliminate this drawback, a direct bottom filter is required.

To do this, large stones or crushed stone are laid on the bottom, with a maximum size of up to 150 — 200 mm. Then a layer of medium-sized gravel is poured (fraction 20-30 mm), up to 150 mm thick. And a layer of clean river pebbles is laid on top, also up to 150 mm thick. The total thickness of the resulting filter reaches half a meter.

• The sandy bottom, through which water seeps, is fraught with another danger. Any impact on it (for example, a lowered bucket) causes the sand mass to rise, which, together with the water, rises to the top. In such a well it is impossible to install pump equipment- sand will quickly disable it. However, everything is solved by creating a reverse bottom filter, which will prevent the rise of grains of sand from the bottom.

In this case, washed river sand is first poured to the bottom. The second layer is river pebbles or gravel up to 10 mm in size (you can use shungite). And the top layer will be coarse gravel or pebbles with a size of 50 mm or more. The thickness of each layer is at least 150 mm.

• The bottom is a pronounced quicksand - which means you can not do without a special wooden shield. It is hammered together from an aspen or oak board and cut out exactly according to the size of the bottom of the well. Drilled into the shield a large number of holes with a diameter of 10 mm. Then it is wrapped in geotextile and laid on the bottom.

So that it does not surface, they press it with large stones. From above, at least 200-300 mm layer of small pebbles or gravel is laid.

What safety precautions are required when digging a well

The work of digging a well is very specific and dangerous, requiring special precautions.

• First of all, the territory should be fenced off and outsiders, and especially children, should not be allowed to the place of work.
• It is impossible to store the selected soil closer than 3 meters from the mine, and even better - immediately take it to a safe distance. In the same radius, the mine should not have any foreign objects or unused tools at all.
• All lifting mechanisms - construction sites, tripods, winches installed on them, gates, hoists and etc.. must be checked daily before starting work. The condition of ropes and slings, rigging hooks is also carefully monitored. All lifting devices must have a reliable brake and locking system.
• Buckets (buckets) for excavating the soil must be tightly tied to the ropes, and when working at a depth of more than 6 meters, they must also have a safety line.
• Working at depth may be accompanied by the accumulation of gases in the mine that can cause suffocation for the digger. Before it is lowered into the mine, the quality of the air is necessarily checked - a burning candle is lowered there. If it goes out, forced ventilation is mandatory, and then the test is repeated.
• In case of lack of oxygen during work, it is necessary to create conditions for forced ventilation. For these purposes, you can use a compressor, fan or other air blower (sometimes even a powerful vacuum cleaner), or install a metal furnace near the mine, the blower of which is connected to a pipe lowered to the very bottom of the mine.
• It is necessary to warn the excavator by voice about objects being lowered or raised. The worker in the mine must be in a protective helmet, the possibility of his emergency evacuation must be provided.
• When working by the method of deposition of rings, the upper unclosed edge of the shaft should not be more than 1 meter. With signs of instability of the walls of the mine, work is immediately stopped until the cause is clarified and the possibility of their elimination is determined.

Usually, the work of high-quality digging of wells is carried out by teams of experienced professionals who have their own specialized equipment. It is almost impossible for a beginner to cope with such a task - there are too many nuances that are familiar only to masters, and there are too many dangers in the work.

At this event, the construction of a well on suburban area far from finished. There is still serious work to be done on waterproofing, insulation, the construction of a clay castle, concrete blind area, holding water pipes, head equipment and other stages. They will be discussed in more detail in other publications of our portal.