Arranging a garden in a wetland is a troublesome business. It is clear that you cannot arrange it without drainage. Such sites are found on upland moss sphagnum and lowland grass-sedge bogs, as well as on clay.
The nature of the soil in the wetland
Raised bogs are peat with high acidity. With the introduction of a sufficient amount of compost and meadow soil, as well as after liming, the soil becomes fertile over time.
Lowland peat is located at a depth of at least half a meter. It is friable and fertile, when it dries out it is a fire hazard, and when it is excessively moist, it is compressed and does not allow plants to breathe. Before planting, you need to add sand and soddy soil to it. Clay is the hardest. close standing ground water, heavy and cold soil will require high costs and physical effort. Clay does not allow plants to develop normally, freezes quickly and thaws slowly. And just entering a large number sand, peat, meadow soil and compost or humus will make such a site suitable for a garden.
Wetland drainage
It is necessary to decide in advance on the style of the future garden (perhaps it will be), with its layout. It is necessary to remove all unnecessary trees and bushes from the site. Depending on the degree of swampiness of the site, plantings will have to be placed on, flower beds, discounts.
The drainage system for drainage in a wetland must be positioned so that water flows into its lowest part. It may consist of hidden, backfill and open ditches for diverting water and a drainage well. Open ditches are often made along the boundaries of the site. It is somewhat more difficult to arrange fillings. Geotextiles are laid out at the bottom of the ditches, expanded clay, gravel, broken bricks are poured on top. In our opinion, backfill ditches are more convenient to use, do not require mowing and cleaning, and are safer for children.
Hidden (with pipe laying) drainage ditches are very convenient to use under the paths. Only their coating should not be put on the solution (in the spring this cement screed it will tear anyway), better - by means of dry laying on the sand. Wood saw cuts will serve as an excellent coating. The drainage well is located in the lowest part of the site. It can be replaced by a reservoir, the depth of which is made depending on the level of incoming water at the site. Peat has an insidious property - it is a heat insulator. Buds are already blooming on trees and shrubs, and the roots have not yet thawed, and the plant dies from the cold. Peat, depending on the degree of moisture, swells and shrinks, in connection with this, the soil is quickly compacted, overgrown with weeds. Clay soils are structureless and cold. Plants on them often freeze.
Plants for wetlands
In the wettest areas without drainage, cranberries and lingonberries will feel great. A meadow grass lawn surrounded by a mixborder of moisture-loving plants (Volzhanka, buzulnik, black cohosh, rogersia, brunner, marsh and Siberian, cuff, loosestrife) will delight. And how a weeping willow will decorate the garden! Such a garden is a great place for beautiful hydrangeas. Spiraea and rhododendrons planted in drained areas will not be superfluous, just like chokeberry, thuja, brilliant cotoneaster. They will be kept company by dicentres. Don't forget the ferns and.
If the drainage system is equipped correctly, good results can be achieved.
And framed by hidden drainage ditches, your mixborders will look no worse than in the most luxurious gardens in Europe. A garden of tall neat beds with impregnated borders protective agent boards will be the decoration and pride of your garden. In the swampy area, God himself commands.
How to build a drainage system on your site, you can see in the next video.
The scheme of planting plants in a pond
It is better when the plants in the reservoir occupy all three tiers: underwater, free-floating and above-water.
This planting scheme is used not only for beauty, but also to saturate the water with oxygen. In a small area of 6-7 square meters. m enough to plant 10-15 oxygenator plants (their flowers, leaves, stems are usually under water, some look out) and five free-floating. In an average reservoir (15 sq. m) there can be three times more plants, and in a large one (50 sq. m or more) - six times. It should also be remembered that overpopulation by plants leads to rapid. So what to plant in a pond?
Calamus calamus (Acorus calamus) from the Aroid family. Perennial with thick creeping rhizome up to 3 m long. Stem 80-125 cm high. Leaves 60-120 cm long have a spicy aroma. Flowers bloom in May-July. The decorative form Variegatus (white-motley leaves) is very popular.
Calamus is immersed in water to a depth of 0.3-0.5 m or in a wetland, it is permissible - in containers (for the winter, the leaves are cut off, leaving stems 10 cm long above the water surface). With intensive growth, it is able to displace other plant species.
Iris iris marsh (Iris pseudacorus) from the Iris family. The height of the peduncles is up to 90 cm, and the length of the leaves is up to 120 cm, and they are decorative throughout the season. Flowers bloom from late May to July. The plant is planted in shallow water. As the bush grows, control is needed - to divide or cut off the excess. Many are planted in a container and annually remove shoots that go to the sides, but it is easier to put the plant in water and press it with stones. At the end of summer, all leaves are cut off. There is a variegated form of iris. It is more capricious in cultivation, in addition, the leaves turn green as they age.
Susak umbrella (Butomus umbellatus) from the Susakov family. Its height can be 40-150 cm. Flowers bloom in June-July. A very elegant plant for decorating ponds, able to emphasize the strict regular style of the composition. Can be planted in a container at a depth of 10 cm to 1 m). Prefers clay soil. It grows rapidly, so it is divided every 2-3 years.
Water lily hybrid (Nymphaea) is a perennial herbaceous plant of the Nymphaeaceae family. Flowers blooming in June-September, 10-12 cm in diameter or more, come in a wide variety of colors: white, pink, yellow, crimson. Berry-shaped fruits ripen on next year. The water lily gives the pond a touching nostalgic charm.
There are varieties for planting at a depth of 50 cm and deeper, as well as for shallow water (from 20 cm), and this must be taken into account when buying a plant. It is preferable to plant in a thick layer of organic silt or in a container with fertile heavy clay soil.
Features of planting water lilies in a pond
For cultivation, special mesh baskets are used, the bottom and walls of which are laid with a permeable fabric that prevents the soil from washing out. Use purchased soil mixture, but you can cook it yourself. To do this, the soil excavated during the construction of the reservoir is mixed with peat (2: 1). The planting basket is stuffed with a mixture of 23, a plant is planted, sprinkled with the same mixture and filled to the top with gravel or small stones (they will not allow an unrooted plant to emerge). Then very slowly immerse in water so that the soil gradually gets wet without floating up. After that, the basket is placed at the desired depth.
In our large country, swamps and wetlands occupy significant areas. On marshy soils, ordinary plants cannot grow and develop, which, to feed them underground parts- roots and rhizomes - oxygen is needed all the time. Stagnant, still water is quickly deprived of oxygen, and most plants die. Only those who managed to adapt to life in the swamp survive - marsh plants.
Meanwhile, in terms of their chemical composition, marsh soils are extremely fertile. They can produce high yields of a wide variety of crops. But for this you must first drain the swamp. Then barren, unhealthy lands will turn into the richest fields and pastures. Fat cornfields will grow where only stunted marsh grasses and undersized bushes have recently grown.
In our country, a lot of work is being done to drain and develop swamps. Agriculture The socialist countries have already received millions of hectares of new fertile land.
The draining of swamps is now almost completely mechanized. Soviet scientists and engineers have created many wonderful machines that do all the hard, tedious and monotonous work for people.
How are swamps drained?
First of all, you need to remove excess moisture from the soil, that is, give it a runoff. And the water should, of course, flow into the nearest river. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to deepen and widen the channel of such a river, and in some places even straighten it. Here it is necessary to remove the soil mainly from under the water.
Nowadays, floating and land excavators, as well as suction dredgers, remove soil from the river.
Floating excavators are used in cases where the width of the river allows you to dump the excavated soil on the shore. This soil thrown out by an excavator is leveled by bulldozers.
Floating suction dredgers, depending on their productivity, are used both on large and small rivers. The soil extracted by them from the bottom of the river, mixed with water - the pulp - is pumped through pipes to the shore and spilled over the surface of the soil. You don't need a bulldozer here.
But stagnant swamp water will not flow into the river itself even after its channel has been deepened and widened. For runoff, it is necessary to lay more channels throughout the swamp area. First, they dig the main, i.e., main, channels, then the collector ones. The latter collect water flowing from the swamp through a shallow closed or open drainage network and divert it into the main canal.
An open network of shallow drainage ditches serves to receive and divert surface water into collector channels, as well as to lower the groundwater level in the area being drained.
As well as open network ditches when drying swamps, a closed network is used - drainages. They are plank, pottery, fascinated or mole. Plank drainage is made from boards, which are hammered together in the form of rectangular pipes. Pottery consists of pottery, i.e. fired, clay pipes. Fashin drainage - from brushwood of various tree species, cleared of leaves and small branches. And, finally, the mole is a system of underground channels resembling mole passages.
Main and collector canals with a depth of 1.5 to 2.5 m are laid by excavators specially adapted for working on swampy soil.
Plow ditchers work on the laying of an open shallow drainage network of ditches. This is a high-performance machine: in an hour it can dig ditches up to 2 km long and up to 80-100 cm deep.
A trench for laying drainage is dug using a bucket-wheel excavator or a plow ditcher, then drainage is lowered into it and covered with earth from above.
For laying mole drainage, mole plows and molehill drainage machines have been created. They are set in motion by a tractor specially equipped for working on marsh soil.
Immediately after laying the channels, their slopes are strengthened with turf or sown with grasses to avoid landslides and landslides.
But time goes by and open channels and the ditches are gradually covered with sand or silt, overgrown with swamp grasses, shallow, destroyed, and as a result, they begin to drain water poorly, or even become completely clogged. You have to periodically clean and repair them.
So, the swamp is drained. All of it was covered with a network of large and small channels. Stagnant water, accumulated in the soil for years, flows freely through these channels into the nearest river. But this is only the first part of the work of land reclamators - this is the name of people involved in the radical improvement of the natural conditions of lands with an unfavorable water regime. Now the drained swamp needs to be mastered, prepared for crops of cultivated plants. Special cleaning machines are used to repair and clean ditches and canals: some for cleaning the ditches of a small drainage network, others for cleaning collector and main canals.
The first step is to clear the soil of small shrubs, stumps, bumps and wood residues. You can't do much with an ax and a shovel - this is a very laborious task.
A brush cutter mounted on a tractor easily cuts bushes and small trees, removes bumps.
However, it is beneficial to use brush cutters in cases where the swamp is overgrown not only with shrubs, but also with small forests. If the shrub is without undergrowth, it is simply plowed deep into the ground. This work is performed by a unit for plowing a bush. Such a hydraulically controlled unit, driven by a tractor, consists of two parts: a hollow drum and a ski with a knife are hung in front of the tractor, and a plow body behind. The drum, rotating, tilts the shrub forward and presses it to the surface of the soil; the knife cuts the layer with rhizomes in a vertical plane, and the plow body wraps the layer and plows the shrub to a depth of 20 to 50 cm.
Uprooting stumps and removing wood residues is one of the most difficult jobs in the development of drained marshes. The stumps are uprooted by the direct pull of a tractor with hooks on chains or cables, or by a grubber, or by a powerful bulldozer that turns out huge stumps, or by a grubber-gatherer.
After cleaning the drained area from shrubs, stumps, tussocks and wood residues, its preparation for agricultural use begins. It includes three processes: plowing, cutting the layer and rolling.
The plowing of peat soils of a drained swamp should be deep, with complete incorporation of the surface vegetation cover. For this, special swamp plows with a wide grip are used, which plow the earth to a depth of 50 cm, while wrapping the layer and embedding all vegetation deep into the soil.
The layer of earth wrapped with a plow must then be loosened to the greatest possible depth so that oxygen freely penetrates into the soil. The layer is loosened with disc harrows or special milling machines.
Then the surface of the drained swamp is rolled - leveled with special swamp bulk rollers.
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Excess water for suburban area leads to the washing out of the soil, a decrease in the yield of horticultural crops, and the deformation of residential and outbuildings. In this case, it is important for everyone who has encountered such a problem to know how to drain the area from water with their own hands.
What influences the choice of dehumidification method
The accumulation of water on the site can occur for many reasons, but the main ones are the following:
- groundwater level rise;
- the site is located in the lowlands, which contributes to the rapid accumulation of precipitation;
- clayey and loamy soils with low moisture absorption coefficient.
The most problematic places on the site are determined in the off-season, when the maximum amount of precipitation falls, - in early spring and late autumn. It is recommended to pump water from the site during the dry period - in summer.
Rapid drainage of the land is carried out by several methods. When choosing suitable option to solve the problem, it is necessary to take into account the main factors:
- type and level of water permeability of the soil;
- size of land;
- optimal level of water drop;
- the period of soil drainage from groundwater;
- finished buildings on the site that require drainage;
- direction of underground sources;
- presence and type of vegetation.
The most popular methods of draining the land on the site are the drainage system, sewage pits and ditches, elements landscape design, moisture-loving shrubs and trees.
Closed and open drainage systems
Modern drainage systems allow you to quickly and effectively get rid of excess fluid in the area. Simple drainage consists of a pipeline and a water receiver. A stream, lake, river, ravine or ditch can be used as a water intake.
The drainage system is arranged from the water intake to land plot while maintaining the optimal distance between its main elements. On dense soils with a high content of clay, the distance between individual drains should be 8–10 meters, on loose and heaving soils - up to 18 meters.
open drainage
The open or French drainage system is a shallow ditches, the bottom of which is filled with fine gravel and stones. Such drainage is arranged quite simply: a ditch of small depth is dug out with the discharge of effluents into a drainage well or a deep trench to the level of the sand layer, which is used as a drainage cushion.
A drainage well measuring 1×1 m can have a closed and open design, its bottom is filled with gravel of the middle fraction and brick breakage. Such structures do not clog, but are filled with soil, which is washed out with water. For this reason, draining this type of well is much more difficult than an open gutter.
Closed drainage
A technically sophisticated device that will quickly remove excess water and will not allow it to stagnate. The arrangement of closed drainage is carried out using pipes made of clay or asbestos cement with laying in a certain order - in a straight line or herringbone. Drainage closed type suitable for areas with a slight slope, which provides a natural flow of water.
Closed drains are often combined with drainage systems that allow water to be carried away from the base of the house.
Sewage pits and ditches
Many owners choose a fairly simple way to solve the problem of draining areas by digging drains and ditches. The arrangement of a cone-shaped pit is carried out as follows: at the lowest point, you need to dig a pit up to 100 cm deep, up to 200 cm wide at the top and 55 cm at the bottom. The dehumidification system is quite efficient, since excess moisture can be discharged into sewers without the use of additional funds.
The process of arranging sewers is more laborious, but no less effective. Ditches are dug along the entire perimeter of the territory - the depth and width is 45 cm. The walls are made at an angle of 25 degrees. The bottom is laid out with a brick battle or gravel. The main disadvantage of ditches is their gradual shedding, so it is worthwhile to clean and strengthen the walls with boards or concrete slabs in a timely manner.
Landscape design elements - streams and ponds
We effectively get rid of excess water on the site thanks to the arrangement of artificial ponds and streams. Similar elements of landscape design can be organized in areas located at a slight slope.
Water sources are best arranged in dark places to avoid water blooms. The bottom of the artificial pond is laid out with stone or geotextile.
To enhance the effect, moisture-loving vegetation can be planted next to an artificial reservoir - shrubs, plants, grass.
Such landscape forms are structurally reminiscent of the French drainage system, since they are equipped according to the same principle.
Moisture-loving plantations - shrubs, trees and grass
To drain the soil, moisture-loving trees, shrubs and grasses are used, which are able to pump out excess water.
In order for green spaces to remove moisture, you need to know which varieties are recommended to be planted on the site. Such plantations include: willow, birch, maple, alder and poplar.
Shrubs are no less in demand: hawthorn, wild rose and vesicle. In moist soils, hydrangea, shadberry, spirea, mock orange and Amur lilac develop.
To give the site attractiveness and aesthetics, moisture-loving garden flowers are planted - iris, aquilegia and asters.
Too wet soil is not suitable for growing fruit trees- pears, apple trees, plums and apricots. Therefore, when choosing trees, it is better to give preference to seedlings with a superficial root system. Planting trees is carried out on hills up to 55 cm high.
To do this, a peg is driven into the soil, the earth around it is dug up to a depth of 25 cm. A prepared seedling is tied to the peg, the roots are sprinkled with earth with the addition of humus. The root neck remains exposed to a height of up to 8 cm above the ground.
After planting is completed, the seedling is watered abundantly with water to get rid of the air gaps between the root system and the soil.
Important! Excessively wet soil has an increased acidity, therefore, when draining, it is recommended to additionally carry out its liming. This will improve the quality of the soil for further gardening and farm work.
During operation, the condition of the soil on the site is carefully checked, since excess moisture can have a negative impact on horticultural crops, residential and outbuildings. The procedure for draining the soil is recommended to be carried out simultaneously with liming.
Now every landowner knows the answer to the question of how to get rid of water on the site and do it right. This will require free time, desire and financial investments.
If the purchased suburban area is located on a peat bog, its owners will have to perform a number of works to improve the soil on it. The land in such places, unfortunately, is too suitable for cultivation. different kind agricultural crops cannot be considered. The soil in peatlands contains very little oxygen, which replaces methane. Also, such areas in spring and autumn turn into a real swamp due to flooding. How to drain the peat allotment if necessary - we will talk about this later in the article.
Ways to improve
In some cases, it is possible to solve the problem of swampiness of the allotment very in a simple way- by adding a certain amount of land imported from outside. But, of course, it is possible to use such a technique only when water is collected at the site due to the fact that it is located in a lowland and has relatively small size. In all other cases, water has to be diverted from the dressing.
The answer to the question of how to drain the site, in this case, can be two technologies:
superficial;
with piping.
The first method is considered the easiest. Open drainage in a wetland with your own hands will be absolutely easy to do. But when using pipes, you can equip a more efficient drainage system.
Diversion with ditches
This method is a good answer to the question of how to drain a swamp on a peat bog. The advantage of this method, among other things, is that when it is used, the owners will not have to spend a penny to drain water from the site. For drainage, in this case, a ditch about 50 cm wide and at least 1 m deep is dug along the edge of the allotment on the side that is located below the others.
If there is a slightly higher, also swampy neighboring area nearby, a trench should also be made on the border with it. This will close access to water from someone else's allotment.
Subsequently, in the process of execution on the site, various kinds of channels will need to be filled with all kinds of construction and garden waste. It can be, for example, stones, broken bricks, weeds, etc.
Benefits of using pipes
open way drainage of water through ditches is simple and cheap. However, this technique is used only in not very wetlands. In all other cases, it is advisable to equip allotments with full-fledged drainage systems using perforated pipes.
The answer to the question of how to drain the swamp in the garden, such technology in most cases is just perfect. The advantages of such outlet networks, among other things, include:
more uniform and faster regulation of the water balance in the soil;
the ability to cover the entire area of the site.
When using such sleeves pass underground. Due to this, the usable area of the site is not reduced. Growing beds horticultural crops on such an allotment it will be possible to do it, including directly above the pipes.
How to set up a closed system
In this case, ditches are also dug on the site to drain water. In this case, the main trench is located along the perimeter of the allotment. Next, ditches are dug over the area of \u200b\u200bthe site.
When using this method of drainage, a waterproofing agent is laid at the bottom of the dug trenches - a thick film or roofing material. Next, a layer of medium-sized rubble or pebbles is poured into the ditches. Perforated pipes are laid on top. In order to prevent the holes of such drainage lines from becoming clogged in the future, they are pre-wrapped with geotextiles.
Pipes are connected at the points of convergence or intersection of ditches using tees or fittings-corners. Above these elements of the network, it is mandatory to equip manholes plastic or concrete. If there are such additions in the system, in the future it will be very easy to eliminate blockages that appear in the highways and clean them from accumulating sludge.
What you need to know
Of course, in order for the water to subsequently leave the section through the pipes by gravity, they must be laid at a slope. Otherwise, it will not work to dry the dressing. Unfortunately, it is impossible to mount the drainage network lines under too great a slope. In this case, the pipes will subsequently silt up very quickly. It is also not worth doing a very small slope of the drainage channels. Otherwise, the system will subsequently work inefficiently.
In most cases, when arranging garden sewage networks, pipes are laid at an angle of 0.5 to 3 cm per running meter. It is not worth deviating from these parameters up or down.
receiving well
How to drain the site with pipes, we thus found out. But where can you put the excess water itself? You can drain it from the site, if it is located on the outskirts, simply beyond its aisles - into some ravine, stream or pond. But if neighboring plots are located next to the swampy garden, a special well will have to be equipped to receive wastewater. If desired, such a container can also be built on a site located on the outskirts. After all, the water collected during drainage can later be used to irrigate the same beds.
Receiving wells are being equipped at the lowest point of the suburban area using the following technology:
a hole is dug in the ground, into which the main drainage trench is inserted;
the bottom and walls of the pit are concreted with a layer of 5-10 cm.
Of course, in the concrete structures of the well, when pouring, holes should be provided for the installation of pipes.
Instead of concrete structure, when arranging the drainage system, you can also use plastic. It will not be difficult to purchase such a container from companies specializing in the supply of equipment for drain systems.
receiving pond
In most cases, the owners of vegetable gardens on peat bogs, of course, equip a well to drain water. But instead of it, if desired, you can make an artificial reservoir on the site - a beautiful decorative pond. In this case, a foundation pit is also dug in the ground, but wider.
The bottom and walls of the pit for arrangement on the site of an artificial reservoir are thoroughly cleaned of roots and stones. Further, the pit is lined with a durable waterproofing material - best of all with a thick film. Through the holes in the film, drainage pipes are led into the pond. You can disguise them at the bottom, for example, with beautiful stones or some kind of aquatic plants. In summer, it will be possible to release even unpretentious fish from the aquarium into this reservoir. Spectacular marsh plants are usually planted around the pond.
Main difficulty
In principle, as you can see, the answer to the question of how to drain the area from water with your own hands is quite simple. The most difficult task in this case is likely to be the physically demanding excavation work. After all, there are actually a lot of ditches on the site. However, in order for such a system to work as efficiently as possible, it is, of course, necessary to lay trenches on the site, first of all, in the right places.
It is best, of course, to entrust the project of arranging the drainage system of a wetland allotment to a specialist. A professional will be able to take into account all the nuances of the relief of a particular area. However, there are projects of drainage systems on suburban areas unfortunately quite expensive. If there is no money to order a pipe laying plan, you can try to develop it yourself. In order to find out where it is best to dig drainage trenches, you will have to wait for the first heavy rain. Observing the streams flowing down the ground, it will be possible to accurately determine the optimal location of the trenches.
How to drain a swamp: using moisture-loving plants
Of course, in most cases, it is possible to drain a wetland only in cardinal ways - by arranging ditches or laying pipes. But as an additional measure in such a garden, it is also worth planting plants that draw a lot of water from the ground. It can be, for example, willows, birches or maples. Such trees, since they have a significant height, are planted, of course, usually on the north side of the allotment. Otherwise, in the future, they will block plantings, which, in turn, can easily lead to a decrease in the yield of horticultural and horticultural crops.
The high level of groundwater in the area can also be reduced with the help of shrubs. For example, a lot of water from the soil can be taken by hawthorn, wild rose, vesicle, irga. Such plants can be planted around the perimeter of the site to create a hedge.
Methane in soil
Of course, after draining by open drainage or by laying pipes, the land on the site will, in any case, become more suitable for growing garden and horticultural crops in terms of composition. But in order to further improve its quality, site owners will have to:
scatter a mixture of clay and sand over the site with a thin layer;
carefully dig the allotment using a shovel or, preferably, a motor cultivator.
Of course, a very good solution would be to scatter around the site, in addition to clay and sand, before digging, also manure mixed with sawdust. This will not only improve the structure of the soil, but also make it more fertile and nutritious. The introduction of various kinds of mineral fertilizers into the soil will also make it more suitable for growing garden and garden plants.
Advantages of peatlands
So, we figured out how to drain the area from water with our own hands and improve the soil on it. Such an allotment can, of course, cause a lot of trouble for its owner. However, peatlands, in comparison with other types of soils, have their own advantages. For example, in such areas, plants usually tolerate winters much better. The earth on peat bogs is frozen slowly, in thin layers. At the same time, the soil on such allotments never freezes too deep. So on such an allotment, after it has been drained, you can plant, for example, heat-loving roses, apricots, etc.
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