The most practical and hardy of all irises are Siberian. The beauty of their flowering and the variety of species and varieties will not yield to the bearded ones, but, unfortunately, they are still significantly inferior to the capricious relatives in terms of prevalence. Reliable, persistent, durable, requiring minimal care and surviving even without it, Siberian irises form spectacular curtains and flaunt a wide palette of watercolor colors from the most delicate blue and lilac to purple, cream, violet, deep blue. Elegant, suitable for decorating easy-care gardens, varietal and specific Siberian irises can pleasantly surprise you with the simplicity of agricultural technology.
The right choice of lighting is a guarantee of success
Siberian irises can be grown not only in the conditions of the middle zone, but also to the north: they are considered unique view, which can be successfully cultivated throughout Russia. They are equally elegant and bloom beautifully in the south, and where summers are short and winters are extremely severe. Beautiful bright leaves and numerous flowers - an ideal that can be achieved without vigilant care.
Siberian irises belong to light-loving cultures. Plants are especially sensitive to lighting in the middle lane and to the north, where it is better to plant this crop in open, bright, warm and sunniest areas of the garden. In the south, Siberian irises can suffer from midday rays and it is better to choose locations in which the plants will be lit in the mornings or evenings, areas with diffused lighting. Siberian irises will not die even in dense shade, but they will not be able to bloom with a lack of sunlight. The lower the lighting, the later and less abundantly these representatives of the genus of irises will bloom.
They are not afraid of wind and drafts, flower stalks never fall, and beautiful thick curtains and long xiphoid leaves do not fall apart.
Soil for Siberian irises
Almost any soil is suitable for growing these irises: even initially unfavorable conditions can be easily compensated for by correcting care. The only thing to avoid is extremely poor, extremely acidic or alkaline soils. Even loose, dry, permanently waterlogged soils can be improved.
Irises are most comfortable on well-retaining moisture, fairly dense, but cultivated and high-quality soil with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. Loams with a high humus content are a great option. Siberian irises feel good on ordinary flower beds and mixborders, but they are no less colorful and in unfavorable circumstances for other irises - in low areas with high humidity and short-term flooding (soaking is permissible only in spring and summer), in elevated and windy areas. On swampy, constantly waterlogged soils, it is enough to lay high-quality drainage for them, on excessively dry soils, you just need to include supporting irrigation in the care program, and on sandy soils, add clay and organic fertilizers when planting. Moreover, the Siberian irises themselves actively improve the soil, providing a disinfecting effect and beneficially influencing its characteristics.
Siberian iris, or Siberian Kasatik, grade ‘Gull’s Wing’
Landing Rules
Before planting Siberian beauties, you should not be too lazy to dig up the soil again and, if necessary, adjust its characteristics. When digging, you should carefully select the rhizomes of weeds.
The optimal distance for irises is from 60 cm to one meter between curtains. Siberian irises annually build up lush curtains, growing in width and a decade after planting, their volume can exceed 2 meters. About specific growth rates and the optimal distance to neighboring plants, you should not forget to clarify the information when buying: this group of irises has both fast-growing varieties and hybrids that grow very slowly and occupy less area.
The landing itself is pretty simple. Rhizomes of Siberian irises, unlike bearded irises, need to be buried in the soil so that about 3-5 cm remain to the surface. Planting holes are dug individually, their size should correspond to the size of the rhizome. It is installed carefully, trying not to bend the roots when planting. Immediately after planting, it is better to mulch the soil with any available material(grass, peat, compost).
Necessary care for Siberian irises
Siberian irises will decorate gardens even without minimal care, but they will respond with gratitude to care abundant flowering and the beauty of clumps of leaves, releasing up to 200 flowers on one plant. But even the most thorough care cannot be called anything other than modest and troublesome.
Top dressing is very important for these irises, which will allow you to get a really impressive number of peduncles. For beardless irises, it is advisable to use fertilizers that acidify the soil - ammonia or potassium nitrate, for example. Top dressing is applied 2 times a year, immediately after the snow melts at the very beginning of spring and immediately before flowering, when flower stalks are just beginning to appear (if you miss the deadlines, it is better to postpone the second top dressing until the end of the flowering period).
For these plants, it is desirable to constantly maintain a mulch layer: Siberian irises love when their rhizomes remain cool. Annually, you need to add soil to the rhizomes to maintain the usual level of deepening. Watering is carried out as needed, to maintain light soil moisture and during drought. Siberian irises are not afraid of the latter, but they will only respond with gratitude to watering during flowering. It is not worth worrying about the fact that regular procedures will complicate the care of the garden: Siberian beardless irises prefer rare procedures with deep soil impregnation.
Pruning plants is reduced to the removal of flower stalks and pre-winter cutting of leaves. It should be carried out only with the advent of severe cold weather, when the process of laying flower buds has already stopped, and the leaves are marked by the breath of winter. The foliage on the sod is cut at a height of about 10-15 cm. If you are in doubt about the timing, leave the pruning for early spring: it can be done before the first feeding.
Reproduction of Siberian irises
For this group of irises, only one method of reproduction is applicable - the separation of adult plants. The timing for the procedure is quite simple to choose: the optimal time for digging up Siberian irises is considered to be a period of complete rest, which occurs approximately 1 month or a little more after flowering. Transplantation and separation can be carried out from mid-August and early autumn, under favorable weather conditions, until the end of October.
The separation procedure itself is not too complicated. At the curtain, you need to cut the leaves to 1/3 of the height and dig out the bushes with as much earthen clod as possible. After examining the rhizome, future divisions are planned, leaving 3-8 fans in each. The plots are carefully separated from the dug up plant with a sharp knife or shovel and transferred to a new place as quickly as possible. For irises, drying of rhizomes is acceptable, but in this case, before planting them, they should be soaked in water until the tissues are completely restored. Preplant soaking is carried out from several hours to 2-4 days.
Siberian iris, or Siberian Kasatik, cultivar ‘Caesar’s Brother’
The need for a transplant
Siberian irises are one of the most durable members of the family. They do not lose their decorative effect for decades, do not require transplants and constant rejuvenation. In one place, provided there is enough free soil to build up the volume and with at least minimal care, they can bloom tirelessly even at the venerable age of 20-30 years.
(Iris sibirica) or iris is a wonderful unpretentious perennial rhizome plant. Translated from Greek, "iris" means "rainbow" and is named after the Greek goddess Irida. This graceful hassle-free flower should grow in every garden, because its powerful root system improves the physical properties of the soil, ridding it of disease-causing fungi and all kinds of bacteria. In one place, the Siberian iris can feel good up to 10 years, you just need to add soil to the bare roots to the base of the bush.
Bluish-blue old varieties can be found quite often in private gardens. And this is not surprising. After all, the curtains of cold-resistant Siberian irises amaze with their decorative effect all season long, which is an indisputable advantage of this excellent perennial. A bush with thin, xiphoid, linear leaves with a waxy coating resembles a fan and always attracts the eye. The first Siberian irises bloom already at the end of May, however, the mass flowering of varieties begins in the second half of June and lasts about a month. Flowers, peculiar butterflies, also will not leave anyone indifferent. Now available for sale terry varieties. Seed boxes can be used in the preparation of dry bouquets.
In nature, Siberian irises can be found in the wet meadows of Europe and Asia. They are not afraid of spring floods and heavy rains, as they love moisture. However, they will not grow permanently in water. If the weather is hot, then the specific Siberian irises will do fine without watering, extracting moisture from the deep layers of the soil due to a powerful root system. Varietal plants will still have to be watered.
Siberian irises already in the 16th century interested breeders who tried to develop new forms of it. And on the island of Crete they found drawings of this magnificent flower, which date back to the third millennium BC.
Planting site, soil
Where to plant Siberian irises?
In principle, Siberian irises grow and bloom anywhere. New varieties, of course, are more whimsical. Most the best place - this is partial shade, a diffused shadow from trees and shrubs. In sunny areas, plants fade faster and require watering, and in deep shade they stretch more, although they bloom without problems.
Siberian irises are undemanding to the soil, although they do not like alkaline ones. Prefer loamy soils that retain moisture for a long time.
Once again, I note that it is better to plant new varieties in the openwork shade of trees and shrubs in fertile loamy soil.
Landing
When can Siberian irises be planted?
For landings on lunar calendar look at the records: "", "", "August", "September".
If the plant is purchased in a container, then it can be planted throughout the garden season. Before planting, the container with the plant must be soaked in a solution of any growth stimulator (Kornevin, Epin, etc.) or simply in water for 20-30 minutes. The plant is planted as it grew in the container, without deepening.
If the plant is purchased with an open root system, then the root must be soaked either in natural stimulants or in purchased preparations (humate, etc.) for a period of 6 to 12 hours. The rhizomes of Siberian irises are best planted in early spring (April, early May) or late summer-autumn (August, September). The delenki take root for about a month. You can deepen the rhizomes to a depth of 3-5 cm, but no more.
Since Siberian irises can grow at one place long enough (5-7 years or more), it is recommended to carefully consider the landing site. It would be nice to add a bucket of compost (humus), 0.5 buckets of sand and 40-60 g of any complex fertilizer to the upper fertile garden layer (15-20 cm) per m². Everything is well mixed (preferably in advance, 2 weeks before planting) and the iris is planted. A mound is made of earth in the hole, a rhizome is placed on it and the roots are straightened, and then sprinkled with a 4-5 cm layer of earth on top. The soil around the plant is required (mowed grass, pine needles, bark, etc.). This will help retain moisture in the soil and discourage weed growth.
If several plants are planted side by side, then the distance between them should be at least 30-40 cm.
Care
Siberian irises do not need special care; moreover, having taken root, they drown out weeds with their powerful root system. However, at the beginning of growth, the first time after planting (2-3 weeks), the plants need mandatory watering and weeding. Yes, and during flowering, Siberian irises are recommended to be watered to prolong flowering.
In autumn at the end of October, after the first frosts, it is recommended to cut the foliage at a height of 10-15 cm from the ground. Powerful foliage that does not rot during the winter makes it difficult for young leaves to grow in the spring. If there is a long warm autumn, then you can transfer the pruning of foliage to early spring.
top dressing
Siberian irises practically do not need top dressing. If the soil was prepared and fertilized during planting, then this will be enough for the plants for 2-3 years. Then, if early in spring or autumn 30-40 g of any complex fertilizer is scattered under each bush, then Siberian irises will thank for more lush flowering.
In early spring, they can be fed with any, this will contribute to good growth and abundant flowering.
Diseases and pests
For 10 years of growth of Siberian irises in my garden, I did not notice diseases and pests on them. If the iris began to bloom poorly, the leaves turn yellow early - these are signs that the plant needs to be divided.
In specialized literature, one can find references that Siberian irises are affected by thrips, winter cutworms, sawflies and other pests. This suggests that the Siberian iris grows in a completely neglected place. Transplant it in partial shade, in fertile soil and he will cope with diseases and pests himself.
If they are susceptible to bacteriosis, then Siberian irises are immune to this terrible disease.
reproduction
How and when can Siberian iris be propagated?
seeds. Siberian irises give self-sowing, but varietal properties are not preserved during such reproduction. However, for species irises, this is a good, but long, way of reproduction. From the cleaned seed pods, the seeds are scattered in the right place somewhere in October, and in the spring in May you can already see shoots. Plants bloom from seeds for 2-3 years.
The division of the bush. The best time for propagation of Siberian irises by rhizomes is a month after flowering. This is approximately from mid-August to the end of September. By this time, plants accumulate maximum nutrients for the winter, take root well and overwinter well. You can not dig up the entire bush, but with a sharp large knife (shovel) cut off a piece of rhizome. The plot must have at least 3 fans of leaves, which must be shortened to 5-7 cm before planting. The cuts must be sprinkled with charcoal, and the roots and foliage should be cut, leaving about 10-15 cm. The plot is planted in the right place with prepared soil. For the winter, plantings are sprinkled with fallen leaves.
Application
Siberian irises look great on the shore or stream. In mixborders with group plantings of various plants, the iris curtain will inevitably attract attention with its excellent fountain-like shape of the bush.
As companions to Siberian irises, delphiniums, tall and even are suitable. However, I like it best when the Siberian iris grows as a tapeworm. His overgrown curtain inevitably attracts the eye.
Siberian irises exquisitely beautiful, few people can remain indifferent to the bizarre lines of flowers, silky petals, as if painted by a mysterious artist. These irises do not freeze in winter, they can bloom magnificently for decades, rarely get sick. And the hybrid varieties that have appeared are also pleasing with a richness of color. If the petals natural species bluish-lilac, then varietal ones can be white, yellow, pink, purple, the color can even shimmer from one tone to another.
Siberian irises, despite their name, do not grow in Siberia, but in northern Italy, eastern Switzerland, the Baltic States, Western Belarus, in the high mountain meadows of the Caucasus and Turkey. We meet in the south of the Arkhangelsk region and in the Komi Republic. And in Siberia grows blood-red iris.
It was these two species that became the first parents of hybrid varieties of Siberian iris. Then there were many more crossings, as a result, about 800 hybrid varieties were bred. Given that selection work has been carried out since the middle of the last century, a significant result has been achieved.
If a wild-growing iris produces a straight peduncle bearing no more than three flowers, then among the hybrids there are varieties with branched stems that adorn up to seven flowers, which significantly lengthens the flowering period.
A classification of hybrid Siberian irises has already appeared, based on such features as color, shape and size of flowers, height of peduncles and flowering time.
Eyes, standards and fouls
classic flower Siberian iris consists of three narrow petals directed upwards (standards) and three wide lower ones (fouls). Near their base there is a contrasting spot - a peephole. In hybrids, all petals can be wide, and all of them are directed up or down. There are varieties with double flowers or with corrugated edges of the petals. The size of the flowers varies from 5 cm to 16 cm.
Breeders have worked a lot with the color of the petals. They can be of the same color, without spots or borders: white, blue, blue, purple, cream, yellow and even pink, crimson and wine red.
The upper and lower petals come in different tones of the same color or different color. For example, the top petals are white or blue, while the bottom petals are yellow, blue, pink, or purple. In some varieties, the color of the petals is even difficult to describe - several colors smoothly flow into each other.
The great advantage of Siberian irises is the strength of the stems, even at a height of 70-120 cm they do not need supports. Medium-sized irises (50-70 cm) are perhaps the most popular among summer residents, and dwarf (25-50 cm) and dwarf (15-20 cm) are often planted in parks.
Hybrid Siberian irises also differ in flowering time. There are varieties that bloom in June, but most bloom in July - August. Irises planted in the shade bloom later. There are remontant varieties that bloom twice a season: in spring and autumn.
Multicolored Iridarium
To give you an idea of the beauty of hybrid irises, we have grouped the most popular varieties by color and present them to your attention.
FLOWERS WHITE: Butterfly Fountain, Belissima, Easter CDM, Snow Prince, White Lance, Forfold White, Harpswell Shantez, Shirley Choyce, Eol (domestic variety).
Belissima
YELLOW: Butte End Krim, Butte End Suga, Dane Susie, Dreamin Yellow, Isabelle, Moon Silk, Sunny Spells.
Butte End Suga
PINK Cast: Valley of Delight, Jax Hals, Dawn Walte, Mary Louise Michi, Roaring Jelly, Spackling Rose, Frostid Cranberry, Heath Wave.
Spackling Rose
PURPLE, RED VIOLET, WINE RED Cast: Anya Marie Troger, Jubilee Blackburn, Jemaykin Velwit, Jeweld Crown, Indy, Lady Vanessa, Ovil Faye, Plum Frolik, Sweet Surrander, Hubbard, Active Duty.
Lady Vanessa
BLUE, BLUE Cast: Vicky Ann, Lady Of Quality, Lilting Laura, May Love, Riverdance, Sally Carlin, Silver Edge, Super Ego, Steps In Blue, Tweed.
Vicki Ann
BLUE-PURPLE, PURPLE: Liberty Hills, Ruffle Velwit, Ruffles Round, Reprise, Sultans Ruby, Silver Edge, Super Ego, Hurry (domestic variety), Trim The Velwit, Tylwood, White Conner Swee, High Standards, Caesar Bryze, Shirley Pope, Eduard Riegel (domestic grade).
Ruffle Velwit
iridescent: Blackburn Jubilee, Book of Secrets, White Emba.
BI-COLOR: Dane Ballerine Dane, Shakers Price, Orientel Capital, Hantis.
By the way!
In Siberian irises planted in partial shade, flowering is delayed by a week compared to plants of the same variety growing in a sunny place. It will not bloom in heavily shaded areas.
Choosing a place of residence
Since frequent transplants of Siberian irises are laborious and undesirable, before planting, you should consider where to settle them. For some reason, it is believed that they love the shade. In fact, these irises bloom best in places well lit by the sun. After all, in nature they are found along the edges of the forest, in forest glades, floodplain meadows. Therefore, in the garden it is necessary to find a place for them, sufficiently illuminated by the sun, at least half a day.
When planting in a very sunny place, trees and shrubs can become protection from burning rays, giving a slight shading. In this case, irises should be planted at a distance of 2 m from them, as their roots dry out the soil.
Siberian irises thrive in damp places, but on excessively moist soils, drainage is required for their planting. They can also grow in elevated dry places, only then they should be watered more often, especially during flowering. Surprisingly, these irises can grow even on a rocky hill. For such planting, low-growing varieties are suitable.
Since Siberian irises have strong stems, they can be planted in areas open to all winds. Bushes with powerful foliage and strong peduncles successfully resist the wind.
We select neighbors
In mixed flower beds(mixborders) Siberian irises thrive because they come from meadow species, where they grow together with daylilies, watersheds, acanitas, delphiniums and lilies. White and blue varieties of Siberians look especially good against the background of orange swimsuits.
In complex flower beds you can plant Siberian irises in low places, the soil level in which is 10-15 cm lower than the rest of the surface. Thanks to this trick, the decorativeness of the flower garden will increase, since the height of Siberian irises will visually decrease. In addition, such plantings are very convenient for flood irrigation.
For group boarding only irises need to be selected in such a way that they all bloom at the same time and harmonize in color. Irises of different shades of the same color look beautiful. In this case, the plant with the lightest flowers should be the tallest.
The Siberian iris bush with its green fountains of leaves looks good on the lawn. Against the background of a lawn, a group of 3-5 different varieties can also be formed. They can be combined with other perennials such as peonies, daylilies, hostas, oriental poppies.
Siberian irises look great against the background of the lawn, but it is important to ensure that the grass roots do not fit into the circle of irises and do not interfere with their growth.
Imagine how beautiful the composition will be with white or blue Siberian iris against the background of carved foliage and bright red oriental poppy flowers. Such a group is also very effective: dark blue Siberian iris, white-yellow peony Claire de Lune and connecting them with calico-colored lupine.
Siberian irises are simply indispensable for decorating ponds. Bright large flowers reflected in the water will not leave anyone indifferent. Their xiphoid leaves, reminiscent of reeds, look very natural on the shore of a pond. BUT high humidity air and soil creates the most favorable conditions for the growth and development of these beautiful flowers.
Soil preparation
Before planting, the soil must be prepared so that Siberian irises have enough nutrients in it for a long time. We remind you that in one place they can grow 12-15 years.
Preparation should begin with digging the ground and removing weeds, especially rhizomatous ones, such as sow thistle, creeping couch grass, snp, bindweed, horsetail, which cause a lot of trouble to irises. Despite the fact that the highly developed root system of these flowers forms a very dense turf, even the rhizomes of weeds climb into it and pierce it through and through. If there is a lot of weed grass, you can clean the area from it with a roundup. However, this should be done a year before planting flowers.
Siberian irises grow best in neutral or slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5-6.5). If the site is light loam and even rich in humus, then the land is the best suited for growing them.
Acidic and heavy soils are improved with lime and sand, and peat is added to alkaline soils to increase acidity. Sandy land is the poorest. Both moisture and nutrients quickly leave it. It is not easy to adapt such a plot for growing Siberian irises, but it is possible by adding 1 bucket of clay and 2-3 buckets of nutrient compost or peat with humus per 1 m2.
In peaty soils, irises also do not grow well, since such areas are too waterlogged and very acidic, but Siberians can also be grown there by making drainage and adding lime (300-500 g / m2). Clay soil is improved by adding a mixture of river sand (13-15 kg / m2) and peat with humus or compost (1-2 buckets / m2) when digging.
What to look for when buying iris
The rhizomes of Siberian irises do not tolerate drying out. Therefore, when selling, they suffer most often, especially if the sellers did not take care of them. When buying, pay attention to the packaging of planting material. Most the best way- rhizomes of irises in pots, and more reliable if they are grown in domestic nurseries, and not in greenhouses in Holland.
A good option if the rhizomes are placed in a plastic bag and sprinkled with sphagnum moss, which retains moisture well and is also a natural antiseptic.
Often, the rhizomes are simply sprinkled with peat - this is not the best option, since the roots often turn out to be overdried, which is why the irises do not take root well and get sick for a long time.
And of course don't buy planting material from random people in spontaneous markets. The chances that they will have varieties of hybrid Siberian irises are not only minimal, but we can safely say that they are equal to zero.
Planting and transplanting
Planting Siberian irises is possible from the second half of August to mid-September and early May. They are transplanted in the summer, 2-3 weeks after flowering.
If planted later in the spring, there is a high risk of damage to the overgrown tender roots, because of which the plant will be sick for a long time. belated autumn planting also a waste of work. The fact is that for rooting, irises need a month with positive air temperatures.
Planting acquired rhizomes of Siberian irises is as follows. In well-dug soil, holes are made so deep that the roots do not bend when planting. The rhizomes are deepened by 5-7 cm, covered with fertile soil, compacted around the planted plants and watered.
By the way!
In the spring, with early thaws, irises can be squeezed out to the surface. In this case, they should be deepened in a timely manner.
You can plant in an accelerated way. This is done as follows: the blade of the shovel is driven vertically to the full depth, then the stalk of the shovel is taken 30-40 degrees to the side and the Siberian iris is planted in the gap formed. After that, they pull out a shovel, fall asleep and compact the earth around the roots.
After watering, cover the soil around the plants with peat, compost or mowed grass (layer 3-5 cm). This mulch will protect the irises from losing moisture in the soil. If the planting was carried out in hot weather, new plants should be shaded from the scorching sun. To do this, it is enough to stick branches with leaves into the ground in front of the plants.
If an iris bush growing in the garden needs to be transplanted, they are waiting for the end of flowering. After the flower stalks are cut off, so that the plant does not waste nutrients on seed maturation. After 2-3 weeks, the bush is dug up, the roots and leaves are cut by a third and planted in a previously prepared place, deepening by 5-7 cm.
When planting several plants on the lawn, the distance between them is 60-70 cm. In mixborders, irises can be planted after 40-50 cm and even after 25 cm. However, in the latter case, every second plant will have to be transplanted after 2-3 years.
Advice!
In summer, an indicator for transplanting irises is the appearance of new roots. Usually they form 2 weeks after the plant has faded and rested a little.
By the way!
If the roots of irises purchased by mail have dried up during shipment, soak them for several hours in water with a growth stimulator. You can leave them in the water even overnight.
Watering is required
Successful cultivation of Siberian irises requires high air and soil humidity, because in natural conditions they usually grow in wet meadows, where it is damp in spring and cool during their flowering.
However, often watering irises can harm them. The fact is that water has a pH above 7, which means that it is highly likely that it will gradually alkalize the soil. If the color of the leaves has turned light green with yellowness, this is a signal that the soil acidity is above 7.5. In such a situation, nitrogen becomes difficult for the plant to access and the foliage begins to turn yellow. To prevent this, before planting Siberian irises, add sulfur to the soil or water the plants with an aqueous solution of ferrous sulfate (30 g per 10 l of water).
This is easily achieved by mulching the soil with a layer of freshly cut grass, pine or spruce needles. Such a simple agricultural technique will not only benefit the plants, but also save you from weeds, you do not have to weed.
Advice!
When feeding irises, do not exceed the dosage - an excess of nutrients can lead to excessive development of the leaf apparatus to the detriment of flowering. Young iris plants do not require additional nutrition at all.
What feeding is such flowering
At the beginning of spring, when the snow has not yet completely melted, and the bushes of Siberian irises are already turning green, it is necessary to carry out first feeding full mineral fertilizer, scattering fertilizer around the bushes. When using Kemira-universal, you will need 60-80 g per plant. The fertilizer must be carefully planted into the soil with a chopper so that its granules do not fall on the growing shoots and do not damage them.
Second top dressing Siberians are given during the formation of buds so that the flowering is lush and long, and the flowers grow large. Fertilizer can be used both organic (compost, slurry, fermented grass) and complete mineral.
The third time irises are fed after flowering - after all, they gave so much strength to bloom magnificently. This time, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are used, in which nitrogen is present in minimal quantities (or better without it at all), for example, such as autumn kemira universal (10-15 g / m2).
Protection against diseases and pests
Siberian irises, unlike bearded ones, get sick very rarely. Yet sometimes, especially in rainy years, the base of the leaf bundles is affected rust. The disease can be stopped by treating the bushes with a 0.4-0.5% solution of copper oxychloride, sold under the name "abiga peak".
Very rarely, bushes of Siberian irises are also affected by a disease such as scorch: the foliage begins to turn brown, the ends of the leaves dry out and bend. The main means of prevention is the timely division of the bush into several parts, followed by transplantation to another place. For treatment, irises are sprayed with a 0.6-0.8% solution of sulfur suspension. In case of severe damage, the plant is dug up and burned, and the earth is shed with potassium permanganate, bleach or formalin.
Sometimes butterfly caterpillars: scoop winter and iris, wintering in the ground, in the spring eat away the bases of flower shoots, which leads to their yellowing, and sometimes death. For prevention, in early May, the plant and the soil around it are sprayed with a 10% solution of karbofos. If caterpillars appear, kinmix is used against them (1 ampoule per 8 liters of water), after treating the plant, 2-3 cm of soil is removed, replaced with fresh and spilled with dissolved kinmix, spraying is repeated a week later.
It happens, settles in leaf bundles gladiolus thrips. The color of such leaves becomes brown, and they begin to dry. Tobacco infusion helps to get rid of this pest: 400 g of tobacco dust is poured into 10 liters of water, insisted for two days, filtered and, having added 40 g of laundry soap to the solution, the plants are sprayed. Processed twice with a weekly interval.
Another invader - iridescent sawfly. The insect itself is small, but its larvae reach 2 cm in length and are very voracious, often after them only the central veins remain from the leaves. They get rid of them by spraying plants with insecticides - you can use the kinmix recommended above - however, if only a few plants are affected, it is easier to cut their leaves along with caterpillars at a height of 10-12 cm and burn them.
By the way!
Yellowing of foliage in Siberians is not a disease, but a consequence of a lack of available iron. In this case, you need to spray the leaves and water the soil with iron chelate. Mulching with coniferous litter also gives good results.
Advice!
After flowering
Faded stems are cut, and as low as possible. Removal of peduncles and phosphorus-potassium top dressing will help to better lay flower buds, which means lush flowering in next year.
For a successful wintering in late autumn, the leaves are cut at a height of 12-15 cm. Do not do this too early. Green leaves store nutrients, which means they also contribute to the laying of flower buds. This is why early leaf cutting can lead to reduced flowering the next year.
Dividing, multiplying
Hybrid Siberian irises are propagated by dividing the rhizomes, since the seeds do not convey the varietal characteristics of the plant. However, natural species can be propagated by seed. Moreover, they often self-pollinate. This is both good and bad. Well, because thanks to self-sowing, Siberian irises are not threatened with extinction: the seeds, having fallen to the ground in autumn, germinate in the spring. But in the garden, self-seeding of species irises planted along with hybrid varieties, is a disadvantage, as it clogs valuable specimens with rootless offspring.
When dividing the bush, the plant is dug up, shaken off the adhering earth and the rhizome is torn apart. It is easiest to divide 3-4-year-old irises, older and older bushes are more difficult to divide. The roots of such plants are so intertwined that they form a large dense turf that cannot be torn apart by hand. Only by using a sharp shovel and knife, it is possible to divide the old bush.
You can get planting material without digging up the plants. To do this, the soil is raked from one side of the bush and the leaf bundle with a piece of rhizome is separated with a shovel, the cut is sprinkled with crushed charcoal, the bush is covered with earth, and the division is planted in a previously prepared place.
The smallest planting unit should have a one-year shoot with a bunch of leaves and roots. However, such delenki bloom only after 2 years, so only very valuable varieties are divided in this way. The usual planting unit consists of 3-4 shoots with roots and leaves. At the delenka, the roots are immediately cut, leaving 5-7 cm, and the leaves are 2/3 of their length. This is done to reduce the evaporation of moisture.
For Siberian irises, the most important thing is not to overdry the rhizomes. Therefore, they are immediately planted, in extreme cases they are added dropwise before planting. If delenki are promised to someone, they are packed in moss, wrapped plastic wrap and pierce it in several places for air access to the roots. When sending the roots of Siberians should not dry out, but waterlogging is also undesirable - this can lead to the development of diseases and rot. An important point is the time of division and landing. Although Siberian irises can be transplanted at any time (spring, summer, autumn), specific climatic conditions should still be taken into account. I think that it is best to plant delenki in early autumn, leaving one month for rooting without frost.
Mulching the soil around Siberian plantings is another secret to success. You can mulch with grass clippings, pine needles, bark, and even straw.
By the way!
The most painful place of Siberian irises is their rhizomes, which do not tolerate overdrying. If you keep them from drying out, then the landing will be successful.
Advice!
When sowing natural species of Siberians, you should know the following. Seeds remain viable for 2-4 years. You can sow them in spring and autumn. To accelerate the development of plants, they are sown in March for seedlings, and after the appearance of the third leaf in seedlings, they are transplanted into the ground. Seedlings bloom in the third year.
When choosing garden crops for your site, any gardener dreams of a well-groomed and aesthetic corner of nature that will delight the eye throughout the season. Someone is delighted with rather whimsical, but original hybrid types of roses, and someone likes asters that do not require special care. However, there are such cultures, planting which in your garden, you can make it original, extraordinarily bright and beautiful, without bothering with special care for them. The clearest example of such plants is Siberian iris, which is a favorite of most gardeners not only in our country, but throughout the continent and even beyond.
Features of the Siberian iris and its description
Siberian iris belongs to perennial plants and is able to bloom for more than a dozen years. It is a family of garden irises, successfully grown even in the north of Russia. Even under these conditions, this plant pleases with regular flowering and is resistant to diseases. Siberian iris, whose varieties number in the hundreds, may differ in color and height of plantings, in the shape of flowers and their size.
Bright, aesthetic, reliable, resistant to any weather and durable - these are the most exact specifications descriptions of Siberian iris. This plant needs minimal "guardianship" and is able to survive even without it. Plantations of Siberian irises create spectacular landscapes and inspire with a wide range of colors: from soft blue and lilac to purple and dark blue. There are also white, cream, milk and even pink irises.
Very elegant and refined, suitable for decorating any garden, Siberian irises impress with the simplicity of the process of planting and caring for them. They are a unique find for group plantings, alpine slides and decoration of coastal parts of reservoirs.
The name "Siberian iris" fully justifies itself: this plant courageously endures cold winters, including without snow, is able to withstand wind and heat, even if it was planted in not very fertile soil. Lovers of flowers with a characteristic aroma may be disappointed by the lack of smell in Siberian irises. However, they more than compensate for this shortcoming with their bright and abundant flowering.
Just a little care and attention - and every summer for 12-15 days Siberian iris will delight you with spectacular, bright and lush flowers. Each peduncle has about 7 flowers that bloom within 5-6 days. And even after the Siberian iris plant fades, it does not lose its aesthetics and is able to decorate your garden until the autumn weather. But the holiday of beauty that irises create can be extended: you just need to plant different varieties of this plant in your garden that bloom at an earlier or later date.
Planting Siberian iris: technique and secrets
Siberian iris, which can be planted not only in temperate climatic conditions, but also in northern latitudes, is considered a phenomenal crop that is extremely resistant to the external environment. They are equally graceful and bloom very beautifully both in the south and in the northern regions - where summers are rather short and winters are very severe.
Choosing the right lighting
The only thing that is important for planting iris, regardless of the region, is proper lighting. Siberian iris is a light-loving plant, so it should be planted in an open and sunniest part. garden plot. However, if this crop is planted in the southern regions, it may suffer from too aggressive daytime sunlight. It is better to choose a place for irises where they can enjoy the light in the morning and evening, or plant them on a site with diffused lighting. Even in dense shade, the Siberian iris will not die, but you can enjoy its beautiful flowering only by planting it in a bright area.
The worse the illumination of the garden area, the later and much less often Siberian flowers will delight with their flowering.
Soil for Siberian iris
Planting Siberian iris is possible in any soil, and the presence of any unsuitable conditions can be easily compensated by slightly adjusting the care of the plant. Only too poor or acidic soil should be avoided. If the soil in your area is dry or swampy, its characteristics can be improved by choosing the right fertilizer. The most lush flowering of irises occurs on well-drained soil with a comfortable alkaline environment.
Although the iris is not a whimsical culture, it is not worth planting it in a kidney that is constantly heated. The ideal option where to plant Siberian irises is:
- moderately alkaline environment with an optimal content of humus and moisture;
- elevated terrain;
- the absence of trees and shrubs near the planting - sources of extra shade with a powerful root system, which will inhibit the development of irises.
How to adjust the soil for planting iris?
- swampy, moisture-saturated soil needs constant, high-quality drainage;
- with dry soil, the plant will need regular watering;
- the poverty of sandy soil is compensated by the addition of organic fertilizers and clay;
- if the soil is too heavy or acidic, you need to slightly dilute it with limestone or sand;
- excessive alkaline environment is corrected by the introduction of peat.
Siberian irises by their nature act as soil correctors, actively improving its quality characteristics and eliminating bacteria.
Instructions for planting Siberian irises
- before planting flowers, you must first dig the soil and remove weed roots from it;
- the optimal distance between the holes for irises is from 50 cm to 1 m. Every year, iris bushes grow and become more magnificent, this must be taken into account when planting them;
- immediately before the planting process, you need to cut the roots and leaves of the plant by about 1/3;
- the roots of Siberian irises must be deepened into the ground, while the height of the hole should be from 3 to 5 cm; the roots of the plant should not be bent;
- a hole with a seedling deepened into the ground is carefully covered with earth, compacted, if necessary, mulched with peat, compost or grass, and watered.
As for the period that will be more favorable for planting Siberian iris seedlings, it can be either early spring, before the period of active plant growth begins, or autumn. The main thing is that the air temperature does not fall below 0 ° C. The plant takes on a long enough period, so it is very undesirable to replant them every year: it is better to do this no more than once every 3-4 years.
The nuances of caring for Siberian iris
Caring for the Siberian iris is just as important as the exact observance of all the conditions for its proper planting. This plant will decorate the garden with magnificent dense and bright flowering, even with minimal, most modest care for it.
- Watering: its importance even for such unpretentious flower, like the Siberian iris, is undeniable. It is important to control the acidity of the water used for irrigation. At acidity above 7 units, water significantly affects the overall acidity of the entire soil. Therefore, before watering the plants with water, it is better to sprinkle their foot with a solution of sulfur or iron sulfate in a low concentration. Although the Siberian iris flower loves moist soil, it is not worth arranging watering for it every day.
A good technique for caring for "Siberians" will be mulching the soil with fresh grass or needles: such a move will slow down the appearance of weeds on the site. best time for watering is early morning or evening, when the sun's rays are no longer so persistent.
Important: when watering Siberian irises, do not allow water jets to hit the flowers themselves: this is fraught with the loss of their decorative appearance.
- Fertilizing the soil: it is very important to produce, and the ideal amount of top dressing for this type of plant is 3 times a year. The first time you need to apply nutrients in early spring (use only mineral fertilizers). It is very important to treat the plant with insecticides, which have the property of preventing the appearance of pests. The second time it is necessary to fertilize the flowers immediately before they bloom: this will directly affect the number and splendor of flowers in each bush. For these purposes, both mineral fertilizers and manure are suitable.
After the irises have completely faded, they are fed again with fertilizers saturated with potassium and phosphorus with the lowest nitrogen content. - Pruning: necessary to prolong the life of the Siberian iris and to break through young shoots as soon as possible. It should be arranged at the very end of autumn, since too early cutting of the leaves of the plant is fraught with its poor flowering in the future. Pruning can be done in early spring, but before that, young leaves will appear. All leaves should be cut at a level of 10-15 cm from the ground. Over time, the rhizome of the iris can show on the surface of the soil: this can be avoided by adding soil to its very base in advance.
The division of Siberian irises and their transplantation
The best way to propagate irises is to divide the bush. When it is better to perform this procedure depends on the weather in the region and climatic conditions. In the northern regions, irises are transplanted in early spring, immediately after the snow melts. In temperate latitudes, for the separation of irises, the period that occurs 1-1.5 months after their flowering is optimal. Iris transplantation can be carried out from August until mid-October.
Before you divide the rhizome, the stems and leaves of the iris need to be cut by 2/3: this technique will significantly reduce the evaporation of moisture and help the plant for more a short time adapt to the new area. Next, we dig out a bush with the preservation of a plentifully earthy coma. We divide the rhizome so that 1-2 sprouts remain on each of the separated pieces of the root. The "operation" must be carried out with a clean knife or a special garden tool. The incisions are treated with charcoal to prevent infection and dry for 1-2 hours.
The separated parts of the roots must be planted in pre-prepared, not too deep holes, which are sprinkled with earth and slightly compacted.
Important: the soil for new plants should always be slightly moist. Therefore, at first it is important to water the Siberian irises little by little, but every day.
There is one problem in the reproduction of this plant: the seeds of the Siberian iris knit extremely quickly and, if you let things take their course, they begin to “self-sow”. And if for a multitude garden plants- This positive moment, then irises that have grown from seeds do not differ in special decorativeness and splendor of flowering. In such plants that have grown "on their own" it is difficult to recognize the original variety. That is why iris varieties are not propagated by seeds: only vegetatively. In order for the Siberian iris not to “degenerate” earlier due date, you should remove the seed bags from these plants in a timely manner in the process of caring for them.
Siberian iris is one of the most persistent and perennial representatives of its family. Even for decades, it does not lose its aesthetics and decorativeness, does not require frequent transplants and rejuvenation.
And finally, we invite you to admire the numerous varieties of Siberian iris, the photos of which are presented below:
Double Standard
Rigamarole;
Rose Quest;
Imperial Opal (Imperial Opal);
Butter and Sugar (Butter and Sugar);
— Contrast in Styles (Contrast in Styles);
Lady Vanessa (Lady Vanessa);
Ruffled Velvet
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