Autumn planting fruit. Autumn tree planting

Grow beautiful garden not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. It is enough to choose the right seedlings and correctly place them on the site. Landing fruit trees and shrubs is held not only in spring, but also in autumn. Seedlings need not only to be properly planted in open ground, but also to choose the most suitable place for them with good soil, sufficient lighting and protection from drafts.

This article describes in detail the features of planting fruit trees and shrubs, the rules for choosing and preparing a site, and photos and videos will help to carry out this procedure correctly.

Planting fruit trees

well maintained orchard is not only a wonderful decoration for your suburban area but also a rich source of vitamins.

It will take a lot of effort and time to grow it like this. And our article will also equip you with the necessary baggage of knowledge and rules that will help in cultivating an orchard.

rules

Sometimes it happens that the seedlings were of high quality, and the pits were prepared on time and appropriately, and the garden still does not start growing. Most often this comes from ignorance by novice gardeners of the rules for placing seedlings. It is their strict observance that ensures that all your efforts and costs invested in the future garden will not be in vain.

Planting fruit and berry trees and shrubs is carried out as follows(picture 1):

1. The soil is prepared in advance, for example, for spring planting - in the fall, and provides for loosening the soil and fertilizing.
2. Immediately before being transferred to the ground, the seedlings must be put in water for several hours so that the root system has the opportunity to make some moisture.
3. Damaged or too long roots should be trimmed smoothly.
4. The roots of the seedling should be freely placed in the hole.
5. It's not enough just to dig a hole right size: it is also necessary to loosen its bottom and lay a layer of compost seasoned with fertilizer on it.
6. It is necessary to drive a support stake into the dug hole from the leeward side.
7. The soil that remains from digging the hole is mixed with compost, mineral and organic fertilizers, and sand. This substrate is used to fill the hole after planting the tree.
8. Seedlings are placed in the hole strictly vertically. If a tree is grafted, then the grafting site should be located above ground level at a height of 10 cm.
9. During planting, the pit is filled with prepared soil evenly, compacting it and conducting intermediate watering.

Figure 1. Rules for planting seedlings

After planting the tree, it is necessary to form a watering circle. To do this, around the entire circumference of the hole, a mound is made in the form of a roller 5-7 cm high, and the trunk circle itself is mulched with organic matter (rotted manure, straw, raw compost). The planted tree must be watered abundantly and tied to a peg.

Peculiarities

If you are going to lay a garden, you should start with tilling the soil in the selected area: carry out deep loosening of the soil and remove weeds, because in loose soil, seedlings quickly grow and begin to bear fruit much earlier. Then you need to decide on the size of the holes.

Note: For annual plants, holes are dug with a depth and width of 50-60 cm, for two-year-olds you will need a hole 110-120 cm wide and 60-70 cm deep. If the soil is heavy, then 15-20 cm are added to all sizes.

If the soil has elevated level acidity, it must be limed. For fertilizer, organic and ash top dressings are used. It is not recommended to use fresh or half-rotted manure, because with a lack of air in the soil, it decomposes and releases harmful substances that poison the entire plant.

Where to plant fruit trees

When choosing a place for fruit crops, pay attention to the relief, the nature of the soil, the depth of occurrence. ground water, possibility of wind protection. In your summer cottage, give preference to a place with good illumination, which is not flooded by groundwater. So, the maximum standing height groundwater for apple and pear trees is 1.5 m, for cherries and plums - 1 m. If the groundwater is high, drainage will have to be done (Figure 2).

Figure 2. Placement of fruit trees and shrubs on the site

It is known that gardens grow best on gentle slopes, but flat laying is not so effective. It is not recommended to plant a garden in hollows due to stagnation of cold air and excess water in them.

Which side of the world to plant fruit trees

An important role is played not only by the fact when to plant seedlings of fruit trees in spring or autumn, but also the side of the world where the garden will be located.

Experienced gardeners advise planting fruit trees on the south, southeast and southwest side of the site.

Fit Types

The correct arrangement of plants in the garden, that is, the type of planting, most directly affects the survival rate of seedlings. Therefore, it is so important to imagine it in all details before starting the laying of the garden. It is also necessary to calculate the distances between seedlings. The interval between them should not be less than the height of mature trees. It is in such conditions that plants will more efficiently pollinate and bear fruit. It is also known that more fruits are produced on the side branches, so the crowns of fruit trees should be shaped so that they grow in width (Figure 3).

Figure 3. The main types of planting fruit trees: 1 - groups, 2 - central placement of bouquets, 3 - checkerboard, 4 - row planting, 5 - row planting different breeds, 6 - central planting of shrubs

However, you should be aware that in a too sparse arrangement, fruit trees are more prone to sunburn and frost damage, so they grow much worse. In this case, the so-called "seals" are planted between tall fruit trees, that is, undersized fruit crops such as cherries or plums. They are not as durable as apple and pear trees, and therefore stop fruiting after 20 years of life and can be removed, since the crowns of tall trees will have had time to fully form and grow by that time.

When to plant seedlings of fruit trees in spring

Timely planting of seedlings of fruit trees in the spring has importance not only for their survival, but also for the subsequent growth and development of plants. The question arises when it is better to plant fruit trees and shrubs in the spring.

Since changes in nature occur very quickly, the air temperature rises, the soil dries quickly, so early spring is considered the best time for the procedure, although in the southern regions it can also be done in autumn. However, a culture such as cherries often freezes during autumn planting, so it should be planted only in spring. At the same time, the sooner a tree is planted, the better and faster it will take root.

How to choose a place to land

When choosing a place to place fruit crops, you should pay attention to several factors: the depth of groundwater, illumination and the presence of drafts. So, groundwater must lie at a depth of at least 1 m. Otherwise, trees will have to be placed on mounds 60-120 cm high.

It is known that fruit trees need a lot of sunlight and heat, so it would be wise to choose a site that is well lit by the sun, preferably on the south side of the site. In addition, it should be noted that young trees are afraid of drafts, so you should try to place a young garden under the protection of buildings. Experienced gardeners recommend not planting seedlings in the same place where fruit trees used to grow. The wasteland area left after uprooting the garden must be sown with meadow or legume grasses for several years or completely change the soil in the pits.

Planting seedlings of fruit trees in spring time

Spring planting should be carried out as soon as possible. early dates, the definition of which depends specifically on the seedling and weather conditions.

In any case, the work should be completed before the buds bloom on the trees (seedlings). The survival and development of culture in the future depends on this.

Planting fruit trees in spring: video

When to plant seedlings of fruit trees in the spring and how to do it correctly, you can see in the video clip. Its author will give valuable practical advice for planting, which are sure to be useful to beginners and experienced gardeners.

Planting seedlings of fruit trees in autumn

Although most commonly practiced spring planting, autumn also has its advantages (Figure 4). For example, in autumn it is much more profitable to purchase seedlings, since it is possible to see the fruits that a certain variety produces. In addition, seedlings planted in the fall do not require much trouble; watering in dry weather will be enough. Their roots will continue to grow until the onset of stable frosts, which means that such a tree will grow earlier in the spring.

Figure 4. Rules for planting fruit crops in autumn

Most often, autumn procedures are practiced in the southern regions, where young plants are not threatened with hypothermia due to mild winters. However, one should be aware of the vagaries of nature and understand the risk to the growth of autumn plantings. Very coldy and wind, ice and snowfalls can not only lead to damage to seedlings, but also completely destroy them. Therefore, experts advise against planting fruit crops such as pear, apple, plum, apricot, peach, cherry, almond and cherry in the fall.

Timing

The optimal time for autumn planting is called the end of September - the month of October, and in the southern regions - from October to mid-November. However, you should be aware that these dates are rather arbitrary, since they depend on weather conditions.

Therefore, it is still better to focus on the condition of the seedlings. best time for planting is a period of rest, which occurs after the end of leaf fall.

Gardens are laid in areas with different topography, groundwater levels and illumination. However, there are certain rules that must be followed when planting a garden, regardless of its location.

It must be remembered that improperly planted trees take root and grow poorly, which can lead to their death.

rules

Planting fruit trees is carried out in accordance with certain rules, which not only ensure the survival of plants, but also improve the volume of fruiting in the future.

The basic rules for planting fruit and berry crops include several important points (picture 5):

1. Pits must be prepared two weeks before the planned planting. At the same time, their size depends on the quality of the soil, but should not be less than 50-60 cm in depth and width.
2. When digging holes, the soil is laid out in two parts: the upper fertile layer and the lower, less fertile, separately. The bottom layer is enriched with nutrients by adding compost to it. The use of manure for this purpose is not recommended, since even in a rotted state it can damage the bare roots of plants.
3. The bottom of the pit must be loosened to improve air access to the roots of the plant. If the soil is sandy, then a layer of clay 15 cm thick is laid out at the bottom of the pit, which will retain the necessary moisture.
4. A few days before planting, the pits are filled with fertilizers (2-4 buckets of humus, phosphorus - 200 g, potassium chloride - 100 g, wood ash - 1 kg per pit 60-100 cm in size). All fertilizers are mixed with the soil, which is intended for backfilling the pit. If the pit was dug and filled in the fall, then this work is not carried out in the spring.
5. Before placing the seedling in the center of the pit, it is necessary to drive a stake 5-6 cm thick and 1.3-1.5 m high from the leeward side.
6. Planting material must be carefully examined, cut off all damaged or diseased branches and roots.
7. You can keep the seedling in a container with water for 1-2 days, so that its root system accumulates enough moisture for quick engraftment. It is also recommended to dip the root in a mash of clay and manure (clay, mullein, water in a ratio of 1:2:5), which will ensure good contact of the roots with the soil.

Figure 5. Features of planting fruit trees

Immediately before planting, a mound of soil seasoned with fertilizer is poured into the bottom of the pit, then a seedling is placed on it from the north side of the stake and the roots are straightened. The pit is covered with a fertile layer of earth removed when digging the pit, compacting it and regularly shaking the seedling. This is done so that voids do not form between the roots. Ultimately, the root collar of the seedling should be slightly above the level of the soil in the garden in order to catch up with it after watering.

After planting along the diameter of the pit, the soil is poured with a roller of small height, and the circle itself is watered with 5-6 buckets of water. The tree itself must be tied to a stake.

The trunk circle must be mulched with organic material to prevent the formation of a surface crust and help retain moisture.

Peculiarities

When choosing seedlings, it would be useful to know their age, because this significantly affects the survival rate of trees. For example, apple and pear seedlings should be 2-3 years old, while cherry and plum seedlings should be 2 years old. When deciding on varieties, heed the advice of experienced gardeners.

Note: Arrange the plants in the garden in rows at a certain distance from each other. So, pears and apple trees are planted at a distance of 6-8 meters, and cherries and plums - at a distance of 3 meters between tall fruit trees and 3-4 meters between rows. You can also take aisles with currant or gooseberry bushes. It will be great if the rows of the garden are located from east to west. So they are better illuminated by the sun in the morning.

To mark out a plot for a garden, you first need to draw its plan, where to provide for the boundaries and arrangement of rows, paths and flower beds (Figure 6). On the ground, stakeout is carried out using a rope, tape measure and pegs. The rope is needed to determine and indicate the distances that will be respected during landing. It is stretched along the future row, and with the help of knots or scraps of fabric, you mark the landing sites. Here it is necessary to ensure that the rows are even. It is not only beautiful, but also easy to care for.

Figure 6. Scheme for placing trees and shrubs

Planted trees are recommended to be tied to stakes to protect them from excessive swinging. To do this, use the usual bast, which must be fixed on a support in the form of a figure eight, so that the seedling does not damage its tender young bark on the stake.

In addition, after planting a tree, you need to cut its branches. At the same time, strong shoots must be shortened by half, and weak ones - a little less. As a result of pruning, the ends of the skeletal branches should end in the same horizontal plane. The central shoot is cut so that it is 20-30 cm higher than all the others. Both the lateral and central branches are cut above the outer bud.

Planting shrubs can be done both in spring and autumn. All work in the spring begins after the snow melts and the soil thaws, and in the fall - before the start of frost.

rules

Planting shrubs, as well as planting trees, is carried out according to certain rules (Figure 7). First of all, they begin with the preparation of the soil and planting material, and also determine the compatibility of the soil and the selected plants. If the soil does not meet the requirements of a particular shrub, it is necessary to carry out a set of agrotechnical measures to improve the soil.

Shrubs are planted in specially prepared pits, the depth of which should correspond to the height of the plant's root system. In this case, attention should be paid to the level of occurrence of groundwater. If they come too close to the ground surface, the planting hole should be 15-20 cm deeper than the standard one in order to be able to arrange drainage. A layer of soil is poured at the bottom of the pit, then a bush is planted.

Note: It is necessary to ensure that during planting the roots of the plant are straightened and sprinkled with earth. It is recommended to fill the hole with the seedling 5-10 cm above the general soil level, however, the root neck should not be buried in the ground.

The planted plant must be watered, it is possible with the addition of growth stimulants. Further care consists in feeding, watering and trimming the branches.

Peculiarities

Planting shrubs in the fall is carried out taking into account the characteristics of certain species. So, for raspberries there is no need to prepare special holes, since its annual seedlings are planted in fertilized soil under a shovel. But for currants and gooseberries, shallow pits are needed. These plants are best planted at the age of two.

Shrub branches before moving into the ground must be cut so that their length from the roots is from 25 to 30 cm. This procedure will help reduce evaporation, and in currants and gooseberries it stimulates the branching of the bush. Before planting, it is recommended to dip the root system of bushes in a soil or clay mash to protect it from drying out.

Figure 7. Features of planting shrubs

Rows of shrubs are marked with a rope, placing them parallel to the rows of trees between the rows. If the planting of shrubs is located separately, then the distance between the rows and in them is one and a half meters. The exception is raspberries, which can be planted at intervals of 70-80 cm. The earth around the planted plants must be tamped and watered at the rate of 1 bucket of water for 4-5 seedlings. After absorbing moisture, the planting circle can be mulched with peat or humus.

Note: It is important to know that raspberry bushes should not be planted deeper than on the uterine plot. But currant and gooseberry seedlings, on the contrary, must be planted deeper than before. This way they can develop additional roots and grow better.

As for strawberries and strawberries, these plants are planted in a slightly different way, since they are herbaceous. So, strawberries are best planted from late July to early September, because late planting will not allow the plant to take root well before the onset of winter. Strawberries are planted between rows of fruit trees or in a separate area. In this case, strawberries are planted in rows, observing an interval of 20-25 cm between bushes and rows. After every three rows, it is recommended to leave a passage half a meter wide. If there is not enough space, you can plant strawberries in the aisles of fruit trees or berry bushes at a distance of one and a half meters from them. With such a planting, the plants are arranged in a row with an interval of 25-30 cm. It is important to ensure that the apical bud of the strawberry is not covered with earth. Irrigation rate - 1 bucket for 15-20 plants. To keep the moisture longer, and the surface layer of the soil is not covered with a crust, it is recommended to mulch the plantings with fine manure or peat.

Where to plant shrubs on the site

The indisputable advantage of shrubs is the fact that they not only give tasty and healthy berries, but can also serve as a wonderful hedge. The choice of a place on the site for planting shrubs is carried out specifically for each species. For example, currant prefers moist and well-lit places (between two fruit trees, near a fence or wall of a house). But the wild rose does not tolerate too moist and saline soil, it loves light and heat.

Gooseberries are also afraid of excess moisture, but they tolerate short-term drought well. So, the choice of a permanent place for planting berry bushes should be taken seriously, since the bushes grow quickly, and transplant big plant much more difficult.

Fit Types

There are several types of planting shrubs:

• tree-shrub group;
• Alley;
• Hedge.

The tree-shrub group combines several types of plants (both trees and shrubs) located separately on the site. For this type of planting, plants are selected with similar agrotechnical conditions and according to their compatibility with each other, crown shape, flowering time, etc.

An alley is a group of tall shrubs arranged in a row at the same distance from each other, for example, along a garden path.

If you plant shrubs in one line so that their crowns close, you can get hedge, which looks much more aesthetically pleasing than any fence.

Planting shrubs in autumn

Most often, autumn planting of shrubs is practiced in the middle zone of our country, including the Moscow region. At this time, you can plant such berry bushes: white, red and black currants, chokeberry, gooseberries, raspberries, honeysuckle, sea buckthorn.

As a rule, autumn planting begins in mid-September, when the life processes of the plant slow down.

Landing dates

In central Russia, the autumn planting of shrubs takes place from mid-September to almost the end of October. In the northern regions, the planting period ends in the first days of October, and in the southern regions, on the contrary, the terms are extended - until the second decade of November.

Figure 8. Compatibility of fruit trees and shrubs

However, the main indicator of the most optimal time for autumn planting is the onset of the dormant period of the plant. It is possible to determine it at the end of leaf fall. It is important to know that seedlings dug out before the start of the period of biological dormancy are frozen in winter, primarily due to unripened shoots.

Compatibility of fruit trees and shrubs when planting

Experienced gardeners have long noticed that some fruit trees and shrubs feel uncomfortable next to other plants or, on the contrary, successfully coexist with them. In the first case, the roots of plants can be at the same depth and interfere with each other. There is a situation when one of the plants releases substances into the soil that inhibit the development of others. Therefore, when planning the planting of fruit and berry plants, do not be too lazy to look at their compatibility table (Figure 8).

For example, apple trees can get along with almost any horticultural crops, except for mountain ash. Red and black currants do not tolerate neighborhood with each other and with raspberries, since its root system inhibits the neighboring plant. For this reason, it is recommended to plant raspberries in a separate area. Gooseberries cannot coexist with black currants, and they are not friendly with raspberries either.

You will find more information about the compatibility of fruit and berry crops in the video.

Distance to the border when planting fruit trees

When planting fruit trees on your site, it would be useful to familiarize yourself with the legislative acts of planting trees in order to maintain good neighborly relations. So, the norms state that the distance from a perennial plant to the border of the site should be at least 3 meters for low trees.

The larger the diameter of the crown, the greater this distance becomes, because the branches and roots of the tree that go beyond your site, the neighbors can rightfully remove without your consent. Bushes can be planted at a distance of 1 meter from the border, and plums, peaches, cherries - 2 meters.

360 Moscow region told about the most common mistakes.

The annual campaign "Our forest. Plant your tree" will be held in the Moscow region on September 12. Plants will be planted both in cities and on the lands of the forest fund. It is planned that in one day the participants will plant more than 1.5 million trees - spruces, pines and oaks. Autumn planting of trees and shrubs in the Moscow region has its own specifics. "360 Podmoskovye" publishes rules that will help you avoid common mistakes.

Rule 1

It is impossible to plant in autumn plants with an open root system, with open roots, if by their nature they do not tolerate autumn planting and if they are grown in other climatic zones oh, and we didn’t spend a single winter with us. And even more so if this variety or species has a problem with winter hardiness.

Deciduous trees with a taproot and a slightly branched root system (birch, oak, chestnut, walnut), as well as hawthorn, do not tolerate transplantation well. Transplantation with bare roots has a bad effect on all conifers, except for larch.

In the risk zone, almost all fruit trees, with the exception of the most winter-hardy local varieties of apple trees. Planting trees that have just been brought from European nurseries and have not had time to adjust to our biological rhythm will also become problematic.

If the tree is in a container, you can plant it in the fall, but be sure to look at the roots that have come out of the container from the bottom: twisted and overgrown will not be able to take root right away.

Trees and shrubs with a clod of earth are transplanted in the same way as container ones, but inspect the condition of the clod meticulously. Try not to injure him once again, do not shake, do not shower the earth from a coma, do not expose the roots. If the lump is packed in a metal or thread mesh, do not remove it. Such packaging, according to nursery workers, is made from materials decomposing in the ground and will not harm root growth.

Rule 2

In the fall, only those plants are planted whose vegetation is completely completed this season. If the shoots are woody along the entire length, and the apical buds are formed, the active vegetation is completed. Otherwise, the tree will definitely freeze. This happens in dry years, when the rains begin late, in August. This is not our case, but we will definitely remember this. Especially when buying seedlings brought from other climatic zones: it will be difficult for them to urgently master the biological rhythms of the new area.

Rule 3

Do not be late with the timing of the autumn planting. By October 10, you must have time to complete the planting season. After all, the seedlings should still have time to put up young roots in a new place. New roots are the key to success; a tree with regrown new roots will successfully survive all the hardships of winter. Everything, of course, will depend on the autumn: if it turns out to be long and warm, then the planting period can be extended. Container seedlings and seedlings with a clod of earth in the event of a prolonged golden autumn will be able to transfer planting and take root until November, before the onset of frost. But still, do not forget about the date of October 10th.

Rule 4

Do not overdo it with fertilizers during autumn plantings. It is enough to add only phosphorus fertilizer to the planting pit, which promotes the formation of roots and is absolutely safe even at high concentrations. Nitrogen, potassium and calcium, introduced in the fall, on the contrary, will be detrimental to the transplanted plant, making it difficult for the development of both those roots that are and those that should appear. Accordingly, neither manure (neither fresh nor rotted), nor lime can be added for planting in the fall! All this should be done in the spring, during the general preparation of the soil.

The only thing that is allowed is preparations - stimulants of root formation. They are diluted with water and applied during irrigation.

Rule 5

Do not forget about such measures to help the planted plant, such as mulching the trunk circle, protecting the bole from sunburn, mice and hares, installing supports and protecting the crown from snow. Any organic material is suitable as mulch: peat, chopped bark, sawdust, straw. It will save the roots from frost and help retain moisture in the soil. The reverse side of the mulch is the problem of mice, which master warm "apartments" and gladly destroy fruit stems, as well as ornamental varieties apple trees, plums, pears. To combat them, use plastic spiral nets that are put on the trunk, or, in the old fashioned way, wrap tree trunks with old tights. This technique, by the way, works great for protection from hares. And hares are afraid of spruce branches.

Whitewash saves from sunburn. Best to use water-based paint, preferably a special garden one, with the addition of fungicides that protect the tree from pests. Just keep in mind that the autumn rains will be able to wash off the whitewash, and you will have to renew it somewhere at the end of February, when the sun starts to bake.

Yes! Do not forget about the garter to the support of the newly planted tree. In no case should the tree sway in the wind, setting the root system in motion. There can be no talk of any rooting. For a small tree, one or two supports are enough, for an adult - a stretching system.

And finally, snow protection. Tie the crown with twine. This is especially true for trees with a pyramidal and columnar crown shape, whose branches depart from the trunk at an acute angle, as well as for conifers with such a crown: junipers, thujas, cypresses. Shrubs also do not hurt to fix with twine, protecting them from breakage with snow.

Recall that anyone can join the action "Our Forest. Plant Your Tree". Well-known politicians and public figures will help restore forests. Svyatoslav Neklyaev, Head of the Department for Media Relations of the Forestry Committee of the Moscow Region, answered topical questions about the action.

Many beginner gardeners ask the same questions. When is the best time to plant trees? Autumn or spring?

For planting pears, apple trees, cherry plums, plums, which period is more suitable? Just these plants take root better in the fall. Subsequently, these seedlings give larger and juicy fruits. But the goal of every owner of a summer cottage is good harvest. Conifers, on the contrary, are recommended to be planted in the spring. It is advisable to take into account these rules.

When to plant trees in autumn? The gardener can choose the period convenient for him. It is important that the tree is planted a month before the first frost. During this time, it will have time to accept. But do not rush and plant trees before all the leaves turn yellow. This will damage the seedling.

So, when to plant fruit trees in the fall? This period starts from the end of September and lasts until mid-October. If the planting date is missed, then the tree can be temporarily placed until spring. We will talk about this in more detail below.

How to select seedlings for planting?

Seedlings should be with a developed root system, grown and strong. Before planting trees in the fall, they need to be carefully examined. If the root or branches are damaged, then their experts recommend pruning to a healthy place. To do this, use a pruner. Roots should not be dry. Such a tree may not take root. The main root of the seedling must reach at least thirty-five centimeters. Many small branches should come from it. To restore seedlings with dry roots, they need to be placed for a couple of days in water or in a container with cow dung and clay.

How to plant trees?

Having dealt with the choice of high-quality specimens, with the period when to plant fruit trees in the fall, novice gardeners have another question. How to do everything right?

Planting trees begins with digging a hole. The top and bottom layers of soil must be placed in different directions. The hole should be such that the root collar is five centimeters above the ground. The width of the recess is one and a half to two times the diameter of the root.

Removed must be mixed with humus. For one seedling, one bucket of the mixture is required. Two hundred grams of superphosphate and forty grams must be added to the humus. If these fertilizers are not available, then they can be replaced with wood ash.

Before planting, the hole must be covered two-thirds of the depth with fertilizer and a stake should be fixed in it. After, we suggest placing the root in it and filling it with the rest of the soil mixed with fertilizer.

At least a bucket of water should be poured into the seedling hole (despite the autumn rainy season). Then experts recommend filling the hole with sawdust or peat, trampling it with your feet. The soil from the remaining bottom layer should be scattered around the tree. To prevent the seedling from breaking, it must be tied to a stake.

When planting trees, you need to take into account that the earth in the hole will shrink, so the root neck should not be lower than the level of the topsoil.

Mistakes when planting fruit trees in the fall

autumn planting trees from inexperienced gardeners can not do without errors. What are they like?

• The period when it is possible to plant trees in the fall is incorrectly chosen.
• An excessively deep hole in which the root collar is deep underground. And this can cause rotting of the seedling (moisture exchange is disturbed).
• A large amount of organic or mineral fertilizers.
• Undiluted bovine or is added to the hole. This will subsequently burn the roots.
• Excess saltpeter can also lead to similar problems.
• Excessive pruning of the crown of seedlings.

If the boarding time has passed

Often there are situations when it is too late to plant trees in the fall. In this case, the plant is placed in a hole dug on the very high place your his land plot. In this sector, water should not stagnate. The southern wall of the ditch is dug flat, and the northern wall is half a meter high and more steep. The roots of the seedling are sprinkled with sand or earth. At the same time, they are abundantly watered. If several trees are planted, then their roots should not be intertwined. To protect the seedlings from frost, they are sprinkled with earth and only the tips of the branches are left. To protect against rodents, young trees are covered with spruce branches. When snow falls, it must be trampled around the seedling in order to create an obstacle for pests.

The seedling is stored this way until spring. When the soil thaws, it is dug out and placed in the prepared hole. This is done until the buds open.

Benefits of fall planting

When to plant trees? Autumn or spring? The choice also depends on several factors. Planting in the fall has its advantages compared to the spring procedure. The beginning of autumn is rich in planting material. Undoubtedly, this is an advantage. Special care after autumn planting is not required. One watering is enough. Next, they will moisten the soil themselves. If the root system of the seedling was disturbed during planting, then during the winter the wounds will heal and suction branches will grow.

This knowledge will also be useful to beginner gardeners. There are several points when planting fruit trees in the fall is not recommended. It will be necessary to transfer the procedure to the spring. Do not rush to get young plants in your garden if a harsh winter is expected. This can cause the trees to freeze. Also, experts do not recommend autumn planting if it is noticed in the intended area a large number of rodents.

In this article, you learned when to plant trees in the fall. We hope this information will be useful to you.

Regardless of whether the summer resident has acquired empty land or has long been the owner of a chic plot, planting fruit trees will not blow anyone. Some will create the garden of their dreams, others will rejuvenate it. All work must be carried out according to the rules and within a certain time frame.

About the rules and terms of planting fruit trees

In order for the orchard to develop well, its laying is carried out taking into account rationalism, acting in the following sequence:

• first determine optimal location for each seedling;
• carry out preplant preparation of the site;
• mark places for each tree;
• dig holes and plant plants in them;
• watered and pruned.

When choosing a landing site, you should consider the location of the neighboring site. Tall trees cannot be planted near adjacent fences - they will obscure someone else's territory. You should not place them near buildings either - in the future, the branches will lie on the roof and can damage the roof.

Fruit trees

It will also be inconvenient to prune such trees and harvest from them. In addition, there is additional (labor-intensive) work to collect fallen leaves. If it is not removed from the roof in time, then this leaf fall will begin to rot there.

Dwarf trees, like shrubs, can be safely placed under vigorous crops (apple and pear trees). They will not interfere with each other in development.

Nice neighborhood

When choosing crops for your garden, stone and pome breeds are located separately from each other at a considerable distance (as far as the garden plot allows). This will facilitate the fight against diseases of fruit trees and pests.

When choosing a neighborhood, consider the compatibility of plants:

• the apple tree gets along well with pears, plums, quince, cherries; next to some shrubs (currant, barberry, viburnum, mock orange, lilac), the culture feels uncomfortable;
• it is better to plant a pear with their own kind and apple trees, trying to avoid proximity to the already mentioned shrubs - they oppress culture in the same way as plums;
• cherry trees are best planted separately from other fruit trees, this will provide a better harvest.

On a note! The binding to the "wind rose" is important. Peaches, apricots and cherries are best planted in southern, southwestern directions. For the rest, the northern side of the site is most comfortable. Although in this case it is worth considering also the region.

So, in the Moscow region and other areas middle lane In Russia, most often the western and northwestern patches of the site are assigned to the garden. Southerners prefer exclusively the north - this way you can protect the trees from overheating.

In the northern zone, of course, the most suitable place is the southern corner of the cottage. Not a single specialist allocates the eastern allotment for a garden plantation, leaving it for building a house.

Note! When choosing a place, you need to take into account the relief. You should not plant a slope with a garden if it is too steep - the fertile layer will constantly be washed out from under the roots. It is also worth ignoring the lowlands, where melt water accumulates in spring, and the wood is damaged by fragments of sliding ice.

Tree transplant

You can grow a garden in one place for decades. But sometimes there comes a time when it is necessary to transplant fruit trees to another site. Only viable plants suitable for fruiting are selected.

To plant an adult tree in a new place, it is prepared for the “move” in advance. 1-2 years before that, a groove is dug around the plant, located along the circumference of the crown. The width of the recess is 0.3-0.4 m, the depth is 0.8-1 m. This work is done in early spring.

In the process, the roots are exposed, which are cut off from common system. Sections are treated with clay-earth talker, to which a growth stimulator should also be added.

The ditch is sprinkled with earth mixed with humus, and watered abundantly. From this moment until digging, many fibrous processes form on the roots around the trunk. With their help, the plant will take root in a new place.

During such transplants, the main difficulty lies in extracting the tree from the old pit. To do everything neatly, you will have to use the leverage system. The removed plant is immediately transferred to a new place, where a spacious pit has already been prepared for it.

fruit tree transplant

It is best to transplant trees no older than 5 years. But this option is not for everyone. cultivated plants. To preserve the variety of cherries, plums, pears, apple trees, it is better to graft them onto a younger tree. There are 3 main methods of grafting: budding, cuttings, ablactation, allowing you to save (or improve) the variety.

Timing

Each summer resident determines the landing time for himself. April is suitable for some - the first decade of May, others are more satisfied with October. Recently, such enthusiasts have appeared that they plant fruit trees in the summer.

Note! The laws of fruit growing recommend planting stone fruits in spring, and pome fruits in autumn.

But experienced gardeners argue that this condition should not be so strictly adhered to. The main thing in landing garden trees- observe the rules of agricultural technology and maintain the crop placement pattern.

Best time to plant: spring or fall

Beginning summer residents often wonder when it is better to plant fruit trees: in spring or autumn. To choose the optimal time for gardening, first of all, you should take into account the climatic region:

Having chosen a suitable month for planting work, it is recommended to look into the Lunar Calendar, which is published annually in periodicals to help "juniors of gardening". The astrological document contains best days when planting fruit crops is recommended.

Do not ignore this information, because they have been using this method since ancient times (and not only in Russia). The moon actively influences all biological processes occurring on Earth, this fact has been proven by science.

Planting fruit trees in summer

Among modern summer residents there are those who do not like the investigator to stereotypes. They also practice planting garden trees in the summer. In addition, at the present time it is really possible to do this without damaging the trees.

Previously, the argument against the summer period was hot weather, which prevented normal rooting. But then the seedlings were sold exclusively with an open root system, which, indeed, is more comfortable to take root at a low temperature in well-moistened soil.

Now nurseries sell trees in containers with soil mixture, and the plant is no longer so important at what temperature it is sent to the pit. The roots are quite well protected and do not dry out.

soil mixture

If an automated rationed irrigation system has been laid on the site, then summer is even more preferable for planting. June is considered a suitable month. You need to choose days based on the phases of the moon. You should wait for the second or third quarter of the activity of the night star in order to plant seedlings of fruit trees.

The soil temperature is also taken into account. If it is above 25 degrees Celsius, planting work in summer should be carried out either early in the morning (at 6-8 o'clock) or late in the evening, but before sunset. This will keep the root system from burning and enable the plant to better adapt.

Experienced gardeners highlight the following advantages of summer tree planting:

• you can quickly choose the right one planting material– in summer there is no such influx of farmers in nurseries;
• during the growing season it is easier to evaluate all the advantages of the purchased trees;
• summer planting seedlings have time to take root before the cold weather and are more resistant to winter than those planted in autumn.

Important! In order for young trees to endure winter frosts, during summer planting, all ovaries that have appeared on the plant should be removed. Otherwise, they will take the extra juices from the seedling onto themselves and weaken it.

Conditions for planting seedlings

The rules for planting fruit trees are common for all seasons. Therefore, the gardener just needs to follow these instructions:

• pits are prepared in advance - 2 weeks before planting seedlings; this is necessary so that the excavated earth has time to ventilate;
• the size of the excavation is determined by the type of soil and the type of fruit trees;
• the walls are drawn up vertically, and the bottom is loosened on the bayonet of a shovel;
• when forming a pit, the top layer of earth is laid separately from the bottom - it will need to be mixed with organic fertilizers (peat, manure, compost, humus) and laid on the bottom;
• before the seedling is lowered into the pit, the roots are dipped in a mash (clay mortar with the addition of earth);
• in the center of the pit, it is desirable to drive a one and a half meter pointed stake, straight and smooth;
• when planting a tree, it should be on the north side of the stake;
• the roots are straightened and sprinkled with earth;
• then the seedling is shaken, and the soil is slightly crushed; so repeat until the pit is filled with earth;
• when subsidence, the condition is observed - the root collar should rise 3-4 centimeters above the ground;
• having tied a tree to a stake with a soft cloth, several holes are made along the edge of the pit, through which the plant is watered abundantly.

Note! If the site has a close occurrence of groundwater, then a layer of fertilized earth is not simply poured into the pit, but a ridge mound is formed from it, a seedling is lowered onto it.

On this spring and summer planting can be considered complete. During autumn work, the final stage is the mulching of the near-stem circle with non-acidic peat or compost, 10 cm thick.

Soil acidity

The mechanical and chemical composition of the soil plays an important role in the laying of the garden. The roots of fruit trees need a suitable nutrient medium and comfortable conditions.

The most important parameter for agrarians is the ratio of cations and anions in the soil solution (pH reaction). These elements determine the acidity of the soil, which is indicated by the pH value.

Soil reaction is divided into 3 types: acidic, neutral and alkaline. The most promising land with a neutral pH of 6-7. But slightly acidic soil (pH 5-6) and slightly alkaline (pH 7-8) are quite suitable for a number of horticultural crops.

Increased acidity can be observed in regions with excessive precipitation (for example, the Leningrad and Moscow districts). A high alkaline level is more characteristic of hot dry areas.

Fruit trees

If the summer resident is not sure about the acidity of the soil in his area, he can take measurements with a potentiometer or use litmus paper. It will tell you the condition of the soil and the composition of the weeds growing there:

• for a neutral reaction, garden calamus, field bindweed are typical, creeping wheatgrass, chamomile;
• white-bearded, mountaineer, chickweed, mullein, pikulnik, plantain, horsetail, sorrel indicate increased acidity.

Ameliorants will help improve the property of the land. Acidity can be lowered with lime, and increased with gypsum.

Planting in clay soil

Some horticultural crops prefer sandy soils, others take root well on clay soils, and others are not particularly demanding on this factor. Many fruit trees do not tolerate heavy clay and depleted sandy soils. Sandstones and loams are optimal for them.

The features of planting trees and the frequency of irrigation depend on the mechanical composition. Farmers have the hardest time clay soil. In such soil, it is difficult for plant roots to breathe. The density of the soil contributes to the long-term retention of moisture, which in the rainy season provokes the development of fungal diseases.

clay soil

An indicator of a heavy mechanical composition are dandelions, bluegrass, goose cinquefoil, creeping ranunculus. Having found such a “community” of weeds on your site, it is necessary to carry out sanding before planting the seedlings: during the preliminary digging of the site, river sand is added to the soil.

Clay soil is called structureless - it has an almost uniform composition. This interferes with water permeability. Therefore, such soil requires careful digging and regular loosening. Do this soil structural will allow the introduction of organic fertilizers during the preparation of the site for planting seedlings.

On a note! The introduction (along with fertilizers) of chopped straw or sawdust into a pit for planting fruit trees will help bring the soil composition closer to loams.

A novice summer resident, in order to grow a chic garden on clay, should take into account the advice of experienced farmers:

• digging clay area before planting, seedlings are carried out twice: six months before digging holes and again 10 days before the main work;
• the depth of the hole under the tree is less than in fertile soil;
• clay talker for the roots in this case is not used;
• it is better to cover a seedling lowered into a pit with imported soil mixed with fertilizers;
• after planting the tree, the earth is not pressed hard so that it does not compact.

Growing fruit trees will be the more successful, the more attentively the summer resident treats the conditions of agricultural technology. Important right choice places, taking into account the composition of the soil, the definition optimal time and compliance with planting habits. This is the only way to get a good harvest.