With what plants and how to use cow dung as a fertilizer? Manure as fertilizer.

Sakura is most often associated with Japan and its culture. Picnics under the shade of flowering trees have long become an essential attribute of the meeting of spring in the Land of the Rising Sun. The financial and academic year here begins on April 1, when magnificent cherry blossoms bloom. Therefore, many significant moments in the life of the Japanese pass under the sign of their flowering. But sakura also grows well in cooler regions - certain types can be successfully grown even in Siberia.

Agriculture refers to such types of human activity, the successful outcome of which is not always directly proportional to the efforts made. Unfortunately, nature does not necessarily act as our ally in growing plants, and often, on the contrary, throws up new challenges. Intensified reproduction of pests, abnormal heat, late return frosts, hurricane winds, drought ... And one of the springs presented us with another surprise - a flood.

Let me confess my love today. In love with... lavender. One of the best unpretentious, evergreen and flowering shrubs that can be successfully grown in your garden. And if someone thinks that lavender is a Mediterranean or, at least, southern inhabitant, then you are mistaken. Lavender grows well in more northern regions, even in the Moscow region. But in order to grow it, you need to know some rules and features. They will be discussed in this article.

Having once tasted such an invaluable product as a pumpkin, it is already difficult to stop looking for more and more new recipes for serving it to the table. Pumpkin in Korean, despite its pungency and spice, has a fresh and delicate taste. After cooking, you will need to cover the salad and let it brew for at least 15 minutes. My nutmeg pumpkin is very juicy and sweet, so there is no need to crush it. If the pumpkin is of a different variety, then you can knead it with your hands so that it slightly releases the juice.

Lettuce, as the earliest and most unpretentious green crop, has always been held in high esteem by gardeners. Spring plantings most gardeners usually start by planting lettuce, parsley, and radishes. Recently, the desire for healthy eating and a large selection of greens in supermarkets make gardeners wonder which of these plants can be grown in their beds? In this article we will talk about the nine most interesting, in our opinion, varieties of lettuce.

Pollock is best cooked in the form of a casserole, separating the fillet from the skin and bones. Pieces of fish are mixed with a colorful vegetable set, poured with a sauce of cheese, sour cream and eggs. This fish casserole has presentable appearance, and its taste is a bizarre mixture of subtle nuances. Vegetables and fillets will be soaked in sour cream, the cheese will harden with a golden crust, eggs will bind all the ingredients together. Pieces of fish are abundantly sprinkled with Italian herbs, and pollock acquires an unusual piquancy.

Despite the fact that the calendar spring begins in March, you can really feel the awakening of nature only with the advent of flowering plants in the garden. Nothing testifies to the arrival of spring as eloquently as clearings of blooming primroses. Their appearance is always little holiday After all, winter has receded, and a new garden season is ahead of us. But, besides spring primroses, there is still something to see and admire in the garden in the month of April.

Growing rapidly and turning into wild thickets, hogweed disrupts the existing ecosystem and suppresses all other plants. Essential oils, contained in the fruits and leaves of hogweed, cause severe forms of dermatitis. At the same time, it is much more difficult to deal with it than with other common weeds. Fortunately, today a tool has appeared on the free market that can rid your site of most weeds in a short time, including cow parsnip.

Carrot happens various colors: orange, white, yellow, purple. Orange carrots are dominated by beta-carotene and lycopene, yellow due to the presence of xanthophylls (lutein); white carrots are high in fiber, while purple ones contain anthocyanin, beta and alpha carotenes. But, as a rule, gardeners choose varieties of carrots for sowing not by the color of the fruit, but by the timing of their ripening. We will talk about the best early, medium and late varieties in this article.

Recommend Enough easy recipe pie stuffed with delicious chicken and potato filling. Chicken and potato open pie is a great hearty dish that is suitable for a hearty snack, it is very convenient to take a couple of pieces of this pastry on the road. The cake is baked in the oven for one hour at 180 degrees. After that we put it on wooden surface, after releasing it from the form. It is enough to slightly cool the pastries and you can start tasting.

The long-awaited spring for many indoor plants is the period of the start of active vegetation, and for the majority - the return of their decorative effect. Admiring the young leaves and emerging shoots, you should not forget that spring is also a big stress for all houseplants. Sensitive to changes in conditions and versatile, all indoor crops are faced with much brighter lighting, changes in air humidity and temperature conditions.

You can easily cook homemade Easter cake with cottage cheese and candied fruits, even without any confectionery experience behind you. You can bake Easter cake not only in a special form or in a paper mold. For the first culinary experiences (and not only), I advise you to take a small cast iron pan. Easter cake in a pan will not turn out as high as in a narrow form, but it never burns and always bakes well inside! Yeast curd dough is airy and fragrant.

It is also interesting in that its fruits (pumpkins) are used as food by young, not ripe ones (zelenets). This means that you do not have to wait for the harvest to ripen, and from late spring to autumn you can have on the menu fresh vegetables. In your beds, it is better to grow varieties and hybrids of zucchini that are resistant to diseases and changes in weather conditions. This eliminates unwanted treatments and allows you to get a crop in any weather. It is about such varieties of zucchini that will be discussed in this article.

IN middle lane April is the time when the first flowering of plants in gardens and parks begins. The constant soloists of the spring that has come into its own are bulbous primroses. But also among ornamental shrubs you can meet those that will delight you with fragrant flowers that enliven a still inconspicuous garden. The main riot of flowering ornamental shrubs falls on the month of May, and most of them, as a rule, bloom in mid-May.

What is compost? This is an excellent organic fertilizer obtained as a result of the decomposition of various organic substances under the influence of the activity of microorganisms, fungi and soil microflora.

What can be used to get compost in the country? Almost all plant and food waste: weeds, mowed lawn grass(the scourge of modern summer residents!), branches, straw, vegetable tops, spoiled fruits, peat, animal manure, bird droppings, human waste products (urine and excrement), paper, newspapers and magazines, feathers, sawdust, bark, shavings, cut and cardboard moistened with water, all food waste (except meat and fish, to avoid the appearance of flies and rodents). Simply put, as soon as you have a compost box on your site, the amount of garbage you take out will decrease significantly and it (garbage) will consist only of metal, plastic and glass.

How to make? Anything can serve as a material for its construction: metal or plastic mesh, unnecessary pallets (wooden pallets), slate, boards, plastic. Available for sale a large number of ready-made plastic containers for compost, for every taste and budget.

The volume of the composter must be at least 1 cubic meter; in a smaller mass, the processes of decomposition of organic matter will occur very sluggishly.

The basic rules for laying organic matter in the composter are:

1. The compost container is always installed directly on the ground so that excess moisture can seep into the depths, and microorganisms and worms can penetrate into the mass of compost from the ground, helping to quickly process the substrate.
2. Quite large branches, coarse stalks of corn, sunflower, cabbage stalks with roots must first be laid at the bottom of the composter. This is done in order to provide ventilation and air flow into the pile from below, which will also accelerate its maturation.
3. The layers in the compost should not be very high, 10-15 cm of each type.
4. A layer of juicy organic matter (mowed and weeded grass, fruits, rotten vegetables, wet manure) should always be filled up (better mixed) with a layer of dry and coarse organic matter (newspapers, thin branches, peat, soil from the site, straw). Otherwise, rotting will occur inside the formation with the formation of an unpleasant odor and mold.
5. If possible, once a month, you need to either turn over the layers of compost, or increase the flow of air in another way - by forcefully sticking the forks deep and swinging them over the entire area of ​​​​the composter.
6. To speed up composting, it is desirable to shed a pile by special means purchased at garden centers.
7. You can prepare such a "compost accelerator" yourself.
In a 200-liter container (barrel) is placed:
- a shovel of wood or grass ash;
- half a bucket of manure or litter;
- a bucket of rotten straw or leaf litter;
- a shovel of humus, compost or just garden soil;
- a liter of whey or curdled milk;
- 3 liters of sourdough mash.
Brazhka-sourdough is prepared as follows: for 3 liters of non-chlorinated water, 5 tbsp. spoons of sugar and a pinch of yeast. It ferments for 2-3 days, then it is added to the common tank. Before use, you need to store the mash in the refrigerator - it is valuable until it sour. IN common tank the whole bodyaga is infused for a week. Sometimes it needs to be stirred. When used, the infusion is diluted at least twice.
With such an "accelerator" shed a bunch of 1-2 times a week for 1-2 buckets.
8. The composter must be covered from above from the sun (dries up) and rain (nutrients are washed out, the substrate rots) with shields or film.
9. Very much accelerates the maturation of compost planting directly on top of the pumpkin compost heap. The secretions of the roots of these crops help to decompose organic matter, and the mass of leaves obscures the pile, creating an optimal microclimate. During the growth of plants, the laying of the mass in the composter continues. Layers are laid directly under the foliage, between the stems of zucchini.

If you follow these rules, then by autumn you will be able to get a large amount of remarkably mature compost, loose, dark, with a pleasant smell of forest floor and use it on, in and in the garden.

At the present time, agricultural experts have come up with many ways to help recycle organic matter and raise them beneficial features. Most of them are simple and do not require the use special devices. The most popular methods for changing the structure of mullein include composting, vermicomposting, adding humates and steeping.

Composting

To make compost, it is not enough just to put it in a large container and wait for it to rot. In this case, it will turn out just the usual humus. This method is often used to store this substance. Compost is a more complex fertilizer containing many useful substances.

To obtain a full-fledged compost, you need to add a substrate from the last year to it. It will saturate the compost with beneficial bacteria that will decompose it. From above they give a layer consisting of various wastes of organic origin, and cover it with mullein. Such layers must be made until the height of the pile is 1-1.5 meters. Then it is watered with enough water and left for a while. Usually overheating is carried out after 5-6 months, but in order to guarantee the receipt of high-quality fertilizer, it is better to let it stand for a year.

Composting with worms

With this method, you can get not only a useful organic fertilizer, but also a constant source of soil nutrition. This is due to the presence of worms in its composition, which continue to live and multiply in the soil, thereby processing it.

To obtain compost, experts recommend using a hybrid of a red California worm with a Kuban one. Before processing the mullein, slaked lime, ash or bone meal should be added to the substrate to increase the acidity. The optimal pH value will be 7.5-8. In a more alkaline environment, the worms will not be able to exist and will die.

Processing with humates

Humates are special substances that are used to speed up the processing of the mullein base during composting. This method of obtaining fertilizer allows you to reduce its consumption by 2-3 times, without reducing efficiency. This is a very profitable method from an economic point of view.

How to use humates: 2-3 months before fertilizing the soil with mullein, it is watered with a solution containing humates. Approximately 10 g of humates are needed for 10 kg of mullein. After watering, the pile must be thoroughly mixed to speed up the decomposition process.

Infusion

This is the most fast way receipt . This kills harmful bacteria and microorganisms. The content of ammonia in this fertilizer is minimal.
Preparation method: mullein is poured with water in a ratio of 1:1, covered and left for 1-2 weeks. The resulting mixture is diluted with water again, in a ratio of 1:10, and the plants are watered in the evenings. Liquid mullein is not recommended to be poured under the very root. At a short distance from the plant, they dig small recesses and pour the solution into them.

Use of fresh mullein

In some cases, fresh manure is used, despite its shortcomings. This is justified if there is no time to wait until the compost is processed.

In the warm season, a liquid solution is made from it. For 1 part of mullein give 4 parts of water. Plants are watered with this solution in the evenings. For 1 square meter pour 1.5 liters of the mixture.
In autumn, manure is used when digging the soil. 10 liters of mullein are added per 1 square meter and buried to a depth of 30-40 cm.

With winter fertilizer, mullein is scattered over the snow. 15 liters of mullein are added per 1 square meter. In winter, mullein should be applied a third more than usual. This is due to the evaporation of a large amount of nitrogen when interacting with air.

In spring, mullein is used as biofuel for garden beds.

And a little about the secrets of the Author

Have you ever experienced unbearable joint pain? And you know firsthand what it is:

• inability to move easily and comfortably;
• discomfort when going up and down stairs;
• unpleasant crunch, clicking not of their own free will;

Manure. A magical substance that allows you to get extraordinary yields. Precious in modern times, and unattainable by many for this reason. But imagine the situation: you suddenly became the proud owner of a huge fresh heap. What will you do? Take it to the beds. And this is wrong. There will be no benefit from such actions. How to use cow dung as a fertilizer? To benefit and the result is fast. Let's figure it out.

We prepare competent fertilizer

The fact is that in the case of fresh cow dung, it will not work quickly. It contains too much nitrate, and the level of urea in it rolls over. All your plants will receive a powerful burn of the root system. So what will be the harvest?

There is an exit. True, you will have to be patient and long enough, at least a year. In order for cow dung to become fertilizer, it must be put in a pile or a tall box. It is not necessary to cover the structure with anything. But it is advisable to thoroughly water it with water. In this form, the bunch is forgotten for at least 5-7 months. During this time, cow dung will begin to actively decompose, releasing nitrogen.

Secret. In order for the decomposition process to continue, and nitrogen not to evaporate too quickly, it is necessary to pour cow dung in a pile with any phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.

After six months, the manure in this design will rot enough to be used as fertilizer in the beds.

But still, particles of grass, straw, grain can still remain in it. It shouldn't scare you. After about a gardening season, not even the slightest trace will remain of them. If you are still unpleasantly worried about the presence of foreign particles in cow dung, you will have to wait another six months. Bacteria will decompose the remains of organic matter into excellent humus.

Advice. To speed up the maturation process of manure, if possible, pour whey, yogurt or old kefir into the pile. Just do not look for or buy these liquids in barrels. For a medium-sized pile, only 2 liters is enough.

Harmless fertilizer

It also happens: people are afraid of worms and pathogenic bacteria. Manure from such owners lies in a pile of 4 years or more. Say, the longer, the safer. This is a deep delusion. Worm eggs and disease-causing microbes die in cow dung from high temperatures, not from time to time. Even if the manure has lain in a heap for 10 years, this is not at all a guarantee of its safety.

What to do? Raise the temperature inside the heap. This is the only way to be sure that all weed seeds, worm eggs and pathogenic bacteria have died. In order to start warming up cow manure, it is not enough to pour water over it and put it in a box. It is necessary to add any biofuel in the calculation of at least 25% of the total mass. That is, if you have a ton of cow manure at your disposal, you will have to add at least 250 kg of “catalyst”. This role is often played by:

• food waste
• paper
• juicy grass
• straw (hay)
• natural fabrics (cotton rags)
• old sawdust or shavings
• small branches

All these materials, if possible, are crushed, then mixed with manure. If such a procedure is problematic (anything happens), then you can simply lay out the components in layers, according to the pie principle.

Advice. Be sure to thoroughly water each layer. It is high humidity that helps to activate microorganisms that process organic residues into fertilizer.

Ideally, the proportions of cow manure and "catalyst" should be in the ratio of 50 to 50. But in practice, this can be difficult to do. But if you manage to carry out such an operation, then in the end, after about 8-10 months, you will receive excellent fertilizer from cow dung. At the same time, it will be absolutely safe in hygienic terms. Of course, this does not mean that you can eat it with spoons. It can be applied to all cultures without fear. By the way, root crops do not really like such a treat. But above-ground plants - with great pleasure.

Secret. Completely rotted cow dung is a substance similar to greasy earth or compost. By the way, the content of nutrients and nutrients in it is about half lower than in semi-overripe. But this does not at all detract from its value as a rich fertilizer.

Urgent need!

What about those happy owners of cow manure who do not have the opportunity to compost it? Well, you never know, they “help” to use or the land on the site has already become excessively scarce. Such owners will have to knead the mullein. This is a liquid solution that is ready for use after 3-7 days. It just depends on the ambient temperature.

How to make liquid fertilizer from cow dung, procedure:

1. Take a barrel of any size. Better plastic, wooden, but not metal.
2. A quarter filled with fresh cow dung.
3. A quarter of any freshly cut grass. Suitable even from ordinary weeding.
4. Add some yeast and old jam.
5. Pour clean warm water, not reaching the edges of the container about 20-25 cm.

Now it must be mixed with a wooden stick, covered with a lid and forgotten for 3 days. Or a little more if it's cold outside. The beginning of the fermentation process is indicated by the appearance of foam bubbles on the surface.

How to understand that the mullein is ready to eat? Everything is defined visually. The foam disappears, the characteristic smell of cow dung disappears. There is a smell of humus and rotten grass. The liquid itself becomes cloudy, but noticeably brightens. And the most important feature: all components sink to the bottom, and do not float on the surface.

Everything, cow dung as a fertilizer is completely ready for use. It must be diluted before direct use. clean water in a ratio of 1 to 10. The concentrated liquid contains a huge amount of free nitrogen, it will instantly burn small nourishing roots.

To speed up the maturation of cow dung, you can use natural helpers. Earthworms significantly speed up the processes. But in order for them to like such a dwelling, it is not enough to bring them from the garden or from the garden. In addition to manure, there should also be food in the pile. This role is perfectly handled by food waste. In particular:

• banana peel
• sleeping tea brew
• rotten and spoiled fruits, berries

Just do not fill such a pile with ordinary water to the state of a swamp. Earthworms love moisture, but not excessive dampness. By the way, they really do not like eggshells. And further. Try to stir up cow dung at least once a week if you use this method. Or pierce through with a thick stick. This will allow oxygen to enter. The decay process will be reduced significantly.

How to use cow dung as a fertilizer? A comic wish, allegedly borrowed from Chinese wisdom, will do here: “Not toropissa (manure must rot), not volnossa (your plants will have time to get treats), and smiles (after all, you are the owner of such wealth)!”

Video: cow dung as fertilizer

One day my friend bought a plot on a farm near Rostov. Not only was it one of the islands of meter-thick chernozem that had survived, but it turned out that the okolotok took the place of the old stables of some Cossack regiment: neighbors sometimes removed layers of ancient manure directly from the garden, dried it and heated the stoves like peat. I remember his desperation about the garden: “I planted it like a white man, began to clean it - cursed everything that I remembered! Imagine going for beets with a bucket - more than one does not climb into the bucket! Carry onions - five onions in a bucket! I didn’t weed the potatoes, weeds - a meter long, I was so tired of carrying them! This is a punishment, not a garden!” We should be punished...

At the beginning of the century, humus was studied in detail by scientists from the anthroposophical school of Rudolf Steiner in Germany. They believed that every substance carries a certain energy in itself - a “shape-forming force”. This force remains even after the transformations of substances. Something like the “mind of molecules”. Strength biological substances very large. Therefore, humus - a concentrate of living substances - is the most powerful stimulant of life. So did the anthroposophists. And they were right about almost everything.

Their experiences are amazingly beautiful. They learned to direct the maturation of humus with the help of decoctions of various herbs. Established qualitative differences different types manure and compost. Proved: the quality of humus is directly related to the quality of animal feed. And quality, this very “strength” of the crop, has a powerful effect on the health and strength of animals and humans. So in closed system“Plants – Animals – Man” can improve the health and quality of everyone to an ideal state. This is how the biodynamic system of agriculture arose.

For the "organist" humus is the basis of well-being. They animate him and treat him very reverently: "no humus - no harvest." Taking care of the humus and communicating with it is the main work of all. The preparation of humus and compost is an art and a sacred act. The smell of ripe humus is one of the most pleasant for an organist. Scattering, throwing away organic matter is the same as throwing away bread for a Russian peasant. Because high-quality humus, a handful per plant, can double the yield and dramatically improve the quality of vegetables.

Humus - alive in the most correct sense of the word. This is a community of living organisms that decompose organic matter for plants. Our roommates symbionts. Assistants. Lapushki. Look through the microscope: look, they are trying. It is not difficult to take care of them: the food is already there. But you need to provide moisture and air. And feed stern - discord. And the conditions can be such that instead of humus, a harmful sour “silo” will turn out. Let's consider, how to make a useful humus.

What can be composted? First of all - any manure. If it is too liquid, it needs to be dried for a couple of days, and then mixed with straw, grass, sawdust, leaves, simply layered. Bird droppings can be scattered on the compost heap in a thin layer: it is too concentrated. It is better to infuse it in water for liquid dressings, 1 part to 40-50 parts of water.

Grass cuttings, straw, leaves, sawdust, husks, food and cooking leftovers, spoiled food, meat and fish production- everything will turn into compost over the summer, if you put it in layers and crush each layer with earth.

No need to throw in compost heap fats, wool and bones: they do not rot for 3-4 years. And, of course, you can not throw synthetics into the compost. Pieces of wood, chips, branches - should be chopped up and placed at the bottom of the pile: before they rot, they will work as a drainage.

How to arrange the right pile. First of all - don't make holes. With our loams and rains, water accumulates in depressions. And without air, putrefactive microbes freeze and multiply “fermenting-fermenting” - we make silage in this way and ferment cabbage. Such smelly silage is harmful to plants!

Therefore, find a place that is not flooded. Definitely in the shade, otherwise you will often have to water a bunch. Fence 2-4 sq. meters with walls made of boards, iron, slate, a meter high. Throw a layer of straw, sawdust, leaves at the bottom: they form a layer that separates the compost from the ground, and it will be easy to take it with a pitchfork. It is even better if the pile is arranged on a concrete surface: it is more convenient to work in all respects. Yes, and you will have to carry humus on a wheelbarrow - you need tracks.

"Cold" compost heap.

There can be three walls - without the front. Or maybe four, but the front one should be removable: the humus has to be shoveled and picked up. The construction is completed by a sheet of film, slate or roofing felt, covering the compost from above: rains should not wash out nutrients. At the same time, the “lid” will reduce the evaporation of moisture. And the humidity is better, the more stable. If the pile is covered and in the shade, it practically does not have to be watered in the summer. And the last thing: if you decide to make the main walls of brick or concrete, make sure that excess water could leak from below when it rains.

How to make compost mature. If the organic layer is moist and covered from drying out, it, in general, matures normally on its own. But still…

First. If freshly cut grass, especially wet from dew or rain, is heaped in a layer thicker than half a meter, it can become very compacted, and the aforementioned “ensiling” will begin. Therefore, it is better to dry the grass for a day. Or alternate with layers of something drier. But microbes must have air! In general, a layer of material should not be made more than a meter.

"Hot" compost heap.

Second. You can speed up maturation by half if you sprinkle a couple of shovels of earth on each new layer of organic matter: bacteria for divorce. Left rotten, green water - pour on a pile: food for microbes.

Third. You can make mature compost in a month. For this, it is applied hot composting. In this case, the volume of organic matter should be close to cubic (optimally -1–1.2 m in height). There should be gaps in the walls for air (best of all - mesh walls). Nearby there should be the same empty volume for throwing compost. The volume is filled in layers, flavored with ready-made compost or earth, with a lack of moisture, the layers are watered. Here you need to know the properties different materials: depending on the content of nitrogen or carbon, they behave differently. nitrogenous – grains, seeds, bread and flour products, food waste, rotting fruits and vegetables, as well as manure and feces are a “firebox”: their rotting heats up the pile. A hot pile matures an order of magnitude faster. But these "stokers" contain little air and are too acidic. Therefore they are layered carbonaceous materials: straw, leaves, grass, sawdust, shredded cardboard, paper. They are airy, they themselves almost do not heat up, and when rotting, on the contrary, they consume nitrogen. If you take equally those and others, the balance is normal. And this mixture heats up quickly. But after 4-6 days, the heat in the center of the heap exceeds 70 ° C, and the oxygen ends - the microbes begin to die. If the pile is covered with a film, then in three or four days. Here you take a pitchfork and throw compost to an empty seat. And so - four times. Troublesome. But by June, you can cover the beds with a layer of fresh compost. And get three servings for the summer. Western farmers often compost this way.

The conclusions are: if the heap contains mainly nitrogenous materials, the finished compost should be sprinkled with ash, chalk or lime - deoxidized. If only carbonaceous - add nitrogen: urea (carbamide) or saltpeter per kilogram per cubic meter - it will rot faster and retain nutritional value.

mature compost(humus) easy to find out. It becomes dark and monotonous: the differences between the different components almost disappear. But the main thing is the smell. Everyone disappears unpleasant odors. Mature compost smells strongly of fresh earth or forest floor. More precisely, this earth smells like compost if it contains organic matter. If it doesn't smell, it's dead land.

compost tea. One shovel of compost is infused for a week in 20 liters of water. It turns out a feed. We do the same with manure or chicken. A very good revitalizing fertilizer! True, if there is humus mulch, such measures are useless - it itself both fertilizes and stores moisture.

Let's talk about worms. Doctor of Medical Sciences, doctor Anatoly Mikhailovich Igonin devoted his life to the technology of breeding earthworms. He saw that "... human health is directly related to the health and well-being of earthworms." And this is not an exaggeration. Passing soil and organic residues through the intestines, worms create a unique substance - biohumus. In terms of nutritional value and biological activity, it is much more valuable than the best humus or compost. Commercial agronomy primarily destroys worms: they are afraid of dryness, acidity, excess salts and lack of organic matter. Breeding worms, as Igonin suggests, is too troublesome. And under the mulch they will divorce themselves. You just need to greet them and feed them plant residues. If during the summer a layer of organic matter disappears from the garden, this is good: the worms have eaten it. Our job is to add it.

But where can I get it? First, just don't throw it away. Secondly, you don’t have it simply because you didn’t set yourself such a goal. You can carry leaves, mow weeds, buy manure, husks, sawdust and other waste. In the West, all organic city waste is sold cheaply to farmers. If we want it, so will it be with us. For example, I compost grass from ten acres of meadows and all the garbage in the front garden. Neighbor gives manure. I also buy from the farm. And enough. I concentrate all the strength of the site in several beds. And these beds give incomparably more than the soil - at least plow it and fertilize it. The beds are dying!