Everyone has heard about the value of compost, even novice gardeners. However, the rules for its formation and application are not known to everyone. Many people think that in order for the compost to succeed, it is enough to dump waste and plant residues in one place during the summer, and by spring everything is ready. However, this is far from the case, and in order for your compost heap to really become a valuable material, you need to work on it.
Compost. © GGWTV Content:
What is compost?
If you look in the encyclopedia, you can find an exact description of what compost is: compost is a type of organic fertilizer obtained as a result of the decomposition of organic residues under the influence of the activity of various microorganisms. Therefore, several components are necessary for its formation: directly organic matter, microorganisms and conditions for their vital activity. Based on this, let's look at how to make compost with your own hands.
What is a compost heap made of?
The first thing to understand when forming a compost heap is that not everything can be thrown into it.
What can be put in compost?
Can: any plant residues (cut grass, chopped tree branches, weeds, leaves, tops), organic waste with kitchen table(peeling vegetables, egg shells, tea leaves, coffee grounds), straw, hay, manure (preferably horse or cow), paper used for bedding for livestock.
Organics in compost. © yvw What should not be composted?
It is forbidden: diseased plants, rhizomes of malicious weeds, fats, inorganic debris, synthetic fabrics. It is not recommended to get cabbage into the compost, as its decay causes bad smell, as well as meat waste, since in addition to the stench, they also attract rats.
But that's not all. When forming a compost heap, you need to remember two rules. First, the smaller the waste, the faster it rots. Secondly, the ratio of green (rich in nitrogen) and brown (poor fiber) masses should correspond to 1:5. This ratio will allow bacteria to fully develop and significantly speed up the process of compost maturation.
Since it is difficult to form a compost heap at a time and in most cases it fits gradually, it is quite difficult to understand the amount of green and brown components laid into it by eye. But there are principles that you can follow to understand what needs to be added: if the compost heap has an unpleasant odor, then it lacks a brown component, if it is cool and has no visible fumes, you need to add green mass. If the balance is maintained, the compost heap should smell like earth, give off warmth, be damp, and float a little.
Ideally, a leftover compost pile is laid out in layers with alternating not only green and brown fillings, but also finer and coarser fractions of the components. After the final formation, it is covered with a layer of earth (5 cm), and then with old straw or a specially perforated (for ventilation) film.
Formation of a compost heap
Collecting organic remains in one place is far from everything. For convenience and neat appearance, the place allotted for the formation of compost must be protected. However, it is better to do this not with slate or metal, but by forming wooden frame. This is necessary so that the heap can "breathe". The dimensions for the box should be approximately 1.5 x 1 m (the first indicator is the width, the second is the height), the length can be any.
The place chosen for the formation of the compost heap also matters. First, it must be protected from the winds and the scorching midday sun. Secondly, it is hidden from prying eyes. And if necessary, it is decorated with green plantings or climbing plants.
The best period for the formation of a conceived business is autumn, rich in plant residues, as well as spring and summer. winter period not suitable for composting due to unfavorable temperature conditions.
Before you start laying organics, it is good to lay out a film or a layer of peat 10 cm thick on the bottom of the future heap deep into the ground (by 20 cm). This will save nutrients and moisture. AND!!! You should not resort to the method of collecting residues in a pit, as excess moisture often accumulates in compost pits, which worsens and lengthens the composting process.
composter structure. © University of Tennessee
Compost heap care
Now that we know the basic principles of the formation of a compost heap, it is necessary to recall the rules for caring for it, since it depends on their implementation whether the compost will have time to form in a year or not, whether it will be complete and of high quality. And the rules are pretty simple.
- The compost heap needs to be turned once a month. In this case, it is good to achieve the most complete mixing of the residues. This will make the organic loose, enrich it with oxygen, allow it to burn out, and not rot. If shoveling a pile is difficult for you, at least pierce it from all sides with a pitchfork.
- It is very important to monitor the moisture content of the compost heap. If it dries out, moisten it regularly. However, you can’t overdo it here, but remember that it’s wet, it doesn’t mean it’s wet! Excess moisture displaces air, which means it worsens the work of bacteria necessary for composting. Therefore, carefully water your pile with a watering can, and not with a hose, preferring not to top up than to overflow. In the time of prolonged rains and after watering - cover it with a film.
- If you want to speed up the maturation process of the compost - make sure that enough nitrogen gets into the pile - it is found in the green parts of plants and slurry. How to determine their disadvantage, we said above.
Compost. © Fertile Fiber Compost readiness indicators
How long the compost heap will take to mature depends on the conditions provided for this. Usually, complete overheating of organic residues occurs in 1–1.5 years. The readiness of the fertilizer is determined visually and by smell - the organic matter becomes a crumbly dark brown mass with the smell of forest land.
Everyone knows the truth - plants develop best and bear fruit on fertile soil. But where can I get it if plants are planted on the site from year to year that absorb useful substances from the earth. To nourish the soil, many chemicals have been created. But do not forget that this is chemistry, and everything that you put into the soil will also go into the crop. But there is an alternative - make your own compost.
What is compost and how to make it yourself
"What is compost and how to make it?" - such a question is often asked by novice gardeners. Compost is an organic fertilizer obtained by the decomposition of various raw materials of plant or animal origin.
You can make your own compost suburban area.There are two options for the manufacture of natural fertilizers for the garden.
- Compost heap. This is the most common way to get compost, it is also cheap and easy. You will need to make the frame in such a way that air and moisture get inside. The best material for manufacturing will be wire mesh. Preparation of compost from the beginning of laying and until full maturation takes place in time from six months to 9 months.
Compost heap at home
- In a special box for obtaining organic fertilizers. You can buy it in the store departments "Garden-Ogorod". Such a device is protected from ingress of insects. Inside the box is a drum that turns the substance. In addition, in the middle of the container there is a hose for moistening the waste.
How to make compost?
Experienced gardeners recommend preparing organics with their own hands. The options that give the most effective results are the compost heap or compost pit. In these cases, the decomposition of waste, their decay, is best of all, because inside the layers the temperature and humidity are practically unchanged. The timing of the maturation of organic matter directly depends on the volume of filling: the most filled pits and large ones become more quickly ready for use.
Compost heaps with the following parameters are considered the most acceptable:
- width - 1.5 m;
- length - 2 m;
- depth is about a meter.
You can double the size and make two compartments: one for storing finished compost, the second for laying a new one.
Placing a compost heap is also possible directly on the ground. It will also be well ventilated in natural conditions. Excess moisture must be avoided. Putting waste in a pile, do not get carried away, the optimal dimensions for it:
- base perimeter - 1x1 m;
- in height - 1 m 20 cm.
compost box
Necessary ingredients for a normal composting process:
- oxygen;
- water;
- nitrogen.
In the presence of these factors, beneficial bacteria begin to act, which are involved in the course of decomposition, and thus composting occurs.
How to start preparing compost?
Before starting composting, you need to prepare a shallow pit (approximately the depth of a spade bayonet). The lowest layer in the hole should be small twigs cut off with fruit bushes or trees. This layer performs the function of drainage, allowing excess fluid to flow down.
If you already have ready-made compost, then a small part of it should be placed on the branches. This will speed up the decomposition process, beneficial bacteria from the finished humus will fall into new layers. For all subsequent layers, food plant waste or grass, leaves from the site are used. They are evenly distributed on the surface, trying to tamp, and watered. Sprinkle with earth on top.
So that the pile does not fall apart and is not carried by the wind, it is worth enclosing it with a fence of boards or wire mesh with large cells. From above it is covered with a special covering material (spunbond), in extreme cases, straw is used. So we got a ready-made composter with our own hands.
Making compost for the garden
What are the components of compost?
Compost is a natural nutrient that helps restore soil structure and increase its fertility. But first you need to know how to properly compost. T It is required to create certain conditions for composting to proceed normally:
- Creating an optimal moist environment inside the compost heap. It should approach the readings from 45 to 70%. But if it is not possible to measure the humidity readings, then this is done "by eye" - the normal moisture of the substance resembles a squeezed sponge. The temperature indicator is also important - in the range of 28-35 degrees. Over-dried waste will not decompose, and too wet waste will begin to rot. In hot and dry weather conditions, the compost needs watering. If it constantly rains, then you should definitely turn over the contents of the pit. Overheating of the substrate over 60 degrees is unacceptable, because at this temperature regime all beneficial bacteria die.
- A prerequisite is the access of oxygen to all layers of the compost heap. To do this, it constantly (about 2 times a month) needs to be shoveled, and the lower layers should be lifted up, the side layers should be moved to the center.
- The presence of bacteria and earthworms in the compost pit will have a positive effect on the process of composting biomaterials. They are involved in the decomposition of waste.
Observing all the conditions, you can make compost in the country with your own hands quickly and easily.
What ingredients can be used to make compost?
We learned how to make compost, now we need to figure out which ingredients are suitable for this. Symbolically, all components can be attributed to two varieties:
Components with increased level nitrogen, otherwise they are called green mass. These include:
- cultivated herbs;
- massive parts of vegetable and fruit plants;
Making green compost
- food waste of vegetable origin;
- bird droppings, pet manure.
We prepare compost in the country: rules and technology for the manufacture of organic fertilizer
Many summer residents understand that if you annually exploit the site for growing vegetables and fruit crops and do not apply organic fertilizers, then soil fertility will dry out very soon.
About how to make compost with your own hands and fertilize everything with it in the country cultivated plants will be discussed in this article.
What is compost and its benefits for plants
To begin with, it is important to understand what compost is and how to make it in order to make a good fertilizer. Compost is one of the types of organic fertilizers, which is obtained as a result of the decomposition of weeds, plant residues, fallen leaves, kitchen waste and manure under aerobic conditions (using oxygen). The decomposition of organic matter occurs as a result of the activity of bacteria, and for this it is necessary that the humidity in this biomass be at the level of 45-70%, and the temperature of the medium should vary within 28-35°C. Along with bacteria, various insects and worms take part in the decomposition process. As a result of their vital activity, additional energy is generated, which contributes to a better decomposition of biomass.
The materials used to make compost require shredding. Large fragments decompose over a longer time. In terms of value, rotted plant residues are in no way inferior to humus and have the following advantages and disadvantages:
- as part of the compost, macro- and microelements for plant nutrition are presented in the right proportion;
- barely hitting the soil, it takes part in metabolic processes, making up for the lack of nutrients;
- it combines with the soil and becomes its integral part;
- after irrigation and as a result of showers, nutrients do not pass into the deep layers of the soil, as with mineral fertilizers, but remain in the soil horizon;
- it easily passes water and air, which is very important for the normal growth of plants;
- as part of this organic fertilizer, humus is present in large quantities, due to which soil fertility increases;
- overdose of plants with this fertilizer is impossible, since all the constituent parts are of natural origin;
- with natural decomposition, compost does not clog the soil with toxins;
- of the entire list of organic fertilizers, it is the most affordable and cheapest.
No appreciable shortcomings were found in the compost, with the exception of an unpleasant odor, which may accompany the process of decomposition of plant residues. In addition, flies, ants and other insects will always indicate their presence around the compost heap. But this problem is solved by arranging a door near the box and placing it in the most remote place of the site.
Factors affecting the decomposition of organic matter
The process of creating organic fertilizer from food waste and cut grass is divided into 3 stages: Decomposition. The components of the mixture are heated inside the heap, changing their structure. Beneficial microorganisms appear in the resulting product, including fungi, as well as earthworms, which contribute to the acceleration of the processing of organic matter into fertilizer. Humus formation. At this stage, it is important to supply the collar with oxygen, without which the microorganisms cannot breathe. Therefore, the shoulder should be shoveled several times, moving its outer layers inward and vice versa. Mineralization. Nitrogenous compounds decompose to bacterial protoplasm and nitrogen, and humus passes into a mineral form. After this stage, it can be used for its intended purpose. It will take approximately 10-12 months to complete all stages in favorable conditions.
Choosing a location for the composter
A compost heap, pit or box is best placed in the far corner of the garden so that the sun's rays do not fall on them. If the composition for the future fertilizer is intensively illuminated by the sun, the process of its preparation will be greatly delayed. Do not set up the composter next to apple trees or other trees - their roots will sprout into a pile and pump out all the nutrients from the pile.
Composter device
If you are thinking about how to prepare compost in the country, then you should familiarize yourself with the device of the composter. Proper organization the decomposition process is the key to the rapid production of high-quality organic matter. It is not difficult to make it, following the recommendations. Composting can be done in a compost heap and in a bin. The first way is called classical. The outer frame of the compost heap is made of mesh, which allows air and moisture to pass through. If special additives are added to it, it matures in 9 months. The material for the manufacture of the box can be anything:
- grid;
- wooden pallets;
- slate;
- boards.
On the market you can buy ready-to-use plastic containers. The volume of containers is selected from 1 m³. If the capacity is less, the process of decomposition of organic matter will noticeably slow down.
Layering rules
It is necessary to lay materials in such a way that soft and wet layers are interspersed with hard and dry layers. This provides an influx of oxygen, which will accelerate the decomposition process. Nitrogen and carbon components decompose differently. Nitrogenous decompose quickly, absorbing a lot of oxygen and releasing heat. And carbonaceous substances have a loose composition, are rich in oxygen and, when decomposed, consume nitrogen. If you put an equal amount of these components into the composter, you can achieve the perfect balance. Layers with a thickness of 15-20 cm should be laid alternately and mixed well, ensuring their contact with each other. You can evenly spread chicken manure, fresh manure or a special stimulant to accelerate the maturation of compost into a pile.
A good organic fertilizer is obtained when the initial nitrogen and carbon components are taken in equal amounts. It is advisable to sprinkle the first layer of ingredients with a layer of earth mixed with lime.
What can and cannot be composted
Those people who believe that compost is just a bunch of rotting plant debris in the back of the garden, where you can throw everything, are wrong. This is not so, in order to get the right fertilizer, you need to prepare it according to certain rules. The following components are added to the composition:
- green grass, hay and straw;
- green parts of plants and individual weeds;
- small branches, pieces of wood and sawdust;
- food plant residues;
- manure of cattle, sheep, goats and bird droppings;
- chalk, ash, egg shells;
- special composting accelerators.
There are a number of ingredients that should not be put in a compost pit:
- food residues of animal origin, as they stimulate the process of decay with the release of an unpleasant odor;
- faeces of carnivores and humans, which may contain worm eggs;
- pieces of fabric, coated glossy paper, rubber scraps, stones;
- any chemicals;
- weeds that produce seeds long time retaining germination, as well as underground parts of rhizomatous and root offspring plants that retain germination;
- plant residues inhabited by pests and affected by fungal diseases.
Ways to accelerate ripening and hot cooking
The composting process can take from 4 months to 2.5 years, the time required for maturation depends on the size of the ingredients and the conditions created.
Important! The temperature inside the pyramid must be brought to 60 degrees or more. High temperature accelerates the decomposition of organic matter and destroys weed seeds, larvae of harmful insects.
For fast food nutritional composition it is better to apply the following actions:
- provide a pile (pit) with moisture and air;
- add a special accelerator (Baikal-Em, Unique-S) or fresh manure to the water for irrigation;
- shoveling layers to improve the supply of heaps with oxygen;
- warming the heap in winter to extend the period of active fermentation;
- watering with herbal infusion, consisting of 5 parts of chopped grass, 2 parts of chicken manure and 20 parts of water;
- watering the burt with yeast infusion;
- landing on a pile of zucchini and pumpkins, the root secretions of which contribute to the rapid decomposition of organic residues;
- the use of Californian worms in the processing of organic residues, which pass organic matter through their digestive tract and as a result biohumus is obtained.
There is another cooking method - hot composting, thanks to which the fermentation process takes place in a short time. This method also has other advantages:
- weed seeds lose their germination;
- pathogenic microorganisms die;
- the substance has a fine fraction.
A variation of hot composting is the Berkeley method, thanks to which the time for processing organic matter is reduced to 18 days. When using this method, the following requirements must be met:
- the temperature in the center of the heap should be at the level of 55-65 degrees;
- the ratio of carbon to nitrogen in the components of the substrate should be 30:1;
- the height of the pile is brought to one and a half meters;
- all components must be crushed;
- layers are shoveled 7 times and mixed well.
The algorithm of actions for the 18-day Berkeley method is very simple:
- form a compost heap;
- 4 days do not touch it;
- then within 2 weeks of days turn it over every other day.
The compost is of high quality, dark brown color, with a good smell.
Important! If you notice that earthworms crawl into the prepared compost, it means that it has finally matured and contains a lot of nutrients.
Types and manufacturing technology on the site
The compost is ready for use when it has fully matured. Well-ripened material does not require additional application of mineral or other fertilizers and is capable of providing a decent and environmentally friendly harvest. For the effective use of organic fertilizer from plant residues, you need to know how to determine its ripeness. The following are the main signs indicating that the composition has matured and is ready for use:
- the material has a homogeneous structure and it is impossible to see the individual components;
- after overheating, the compost has a loose and loose consistency;
- compost has acquired a dark brown color;
- the finished product has the smell of wet soil.
Ripened compost is similar to black earth soil with a loose and porous composition.
There are many recipes for the preparation of this organic fertilizer. Some of them involve the use of only natural ingredients, in other cases mineral fertilizers are added to the organic matter - after all, the plant components contain enough nitrogen, and phosphorus and potassium are present in small quantities. To make the right compost, you need to achieve the right balance of these nutrients. Depending on the applied source materials, the list and number of additives can vary greatly. Below are the most widely used and effective composting technologies.
Classic based on herbs and food waste
This type is easy to manufacture, while being effective in use. Classic compost is prepared from simple and affordable components, among which it should be noted:
- green mass, consisting of tops, branches and algae - it makes up the first layer (20 cm);
- cattle manure - the second layer (10 cm);
- dolomite flour or crushed limestone - the third layer (0.5 cm).
Layers should be alternated until the height of the collar reaches 1.5 meters in height. This is how this type of compost should be made, the only drawback of which is a one-year or even two-year aging period. The finished product can be used on the site.
With manure and superphosphate
This composition, as its name implies, is prepared using superphosphate, which enriches the substrate with phosphorus. Phosphorus helps retain nitrogen by binding the ammonia in manure. Making such compost in the country is not difficult. This type of compost consists of the following components:
- land from the garden (10 cm);
- manure mixed with superphosphate in a ratio of 50:1 (10 cm).
This method is relatively fast and is suitable for maturation in 3 months. If the ingredients are bookmarked in the spring, then in early July, potatoes are already fed with ready-made humus and raspberries are mulched.
With the addition of bird droppings
Chicken manure is a very valuable fertilizer, but in its pure form it is not suitable for use, as it can burn the plant. The best way its use - bookmark in the compost. To obtain it, the following ingredients are mixed:
- a layer of bird droppings 20-25 cm thick;
- straw layer - 5-10 cm;
- a layer of sawdust - 5-10 cm;
- the top layer should consist of a layer of peat - 10-20 cm.
If you cover the compost pit with a film, then there will be no unpleasant smell and the product will ripen in 2 months.
In addition to the above components, compost can be enriched with the following ingredients:
- superphosphate;
- wood ash;
- potassium salt;
- ammonium nitrate.
Before laying the compost with your own hands, straw and branches are laid at the bottom of the pit as drainage. Two weeks after laying the top layer, the substrate is subjected to shoveling. Thanks to this procedure, all layers ripen at the same time. For application, you can dilute the finished compost in water or apply it dry.
Based on peat
With this method, you need to saturate the peat with mineral fertilizers, mixing everything well. The ingredients of such compost should be the following substances:
- weeds free from seeds - 100 kg;
- dry peat - 200 kg;
- ammonium sulfate - 350 g;
- sodium nitrate - 50-70 g;
- potassium salt - 50 g.
Compost is prepared as follows:
- on a flat area, a small layer of garden soil is poured;
- peat is poured in the second layer (40 cm);
- a layer of chopped branches, tops and grass is placed on the peat.
All layers need to be compacted a little, then ripening will be faster. Thus, humus can be made from grass, peat and mineral fertilizers.
For champignons
When preparing compost for growing mushrooms, you need to take the following components in given quantities:
- dry straw - 100 kg;
- liquid chicken manure - 100 kg;
- mullein, in the amount of 50 kg;
- gypsum - 5 kg;
- chalk - 3 kg;
- water, to give proper moisture to the substrate.
Such compost is not used for top dressing, it is used as soil for the cultivation of mushrooms. The ingredients are laid in layers, pouring water. The ripening period can be several months. During this time, the filled collar must be subjected to 4-5 times perebivka. A sign of the ripeness of compost humus is the state of a homogeneous mass of all components of the substrate.
How to cook in bags
Compost in bags is prepared when there is not enough space in the country. Let's try to figure out how to quickly make compost in bags and how to shed it to speed up maturation:
- first you need to buy thick black plastic bags;
- the turf is removed from the site, putting it in bags;
- crushed weeds are added to the bag;
- the mixture is spilled with biohumus or other biostimulant;
- sealed with tape.
After a few months, the compost will finally mature, it can be used to fertilize vegetable beds.
Production in boxes
Many devices have been developed for storing bio-fertilizers for plants. People prepare compost in a barrel, pit, pile, heap and box. You can buy boxes or make your own. They are mobile and stationary. In the stationary version, the perimeter of the planned capacity is first marked and stakes 1.5 meters high are driven in in the corners. Then the spans are sewn up with boards, between which gaps are left.
Cooking technology at home
Compost can be made slow and fast ways. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. To quickly prepare compost, you need to work according to the following algorithm:
- First of all, we make a container where organic residues will be stored. This may be a well-ventilated box, pit or pile with access to the contents.
- At the bottom of the tank we make drainage from a layer of hay, straw, branches.
- The components are laid in layers and without compaction, so as to ensure the alternation of wet waste with dry, solid components with soft ones.
- To speed up the process, special organic decomposition accelerators can be added to the compost in layers: nitrogen supplements, leguminous plant residues, cattle manure.
- To maintain the process temperature in the pile and create optimal conditions for beneficial microflora, you need to cover the pile with an old carpet or oilcloth.
- Every month it is required to shovel the compost heap so that its outer layers fall inside, and the inner ones are on top and on the side.
- In the summer heat, the contents are lightly sprinkled with water to maintain optimal technological humidity.
If you were able to make the container correctly and carried out composting according to the technology, then you will receive the finished product in 3-5 months.
If you set out to make the right compost from grass or branches, you should be aware that this process will be very long, but in the end you will get a quality product. You need to prepare the components for composting, put them in a pit and wait for 2 years. So, let's look at the technology of preparing a "food supplement" for plants in a slow way:
- we dig a wide hole on an elevated site with a depth of 60 cm;
- inside the pit we lay chopped tree branches, bark, wood particles, grass;
- on top of the heap we fall asleep with a layer of soil and wait for 2 years.
An effective organic fertilizer will be ready for use in 2 years.
Use of organic fertilizer
Ripe compost is suitable for any crops with the same application rates as manure (15-20 kg per 1 m²). Methods can be very different:
- in the fall for the main tillage;
- under spring plowing;
- before planting potatoes;
- add to the wells when planting seedlings;
- spring and summer as a mulching material.
In spring and summer, ready-made compost is scattered on the soil and dug up to a shallow depth.
Rigorously Following simple rules and country advice, on the basis of which this useful organic matter is prepared annually at home, you can also properly make compost in the country with your own hands and fertilize the soil to increase crop yields and improve fruit quality.
The best organic fertilizer has always been considered rotted manure. But it is not always and not always easy to find it everywhere, so many summer residents prepare their own manure substitute - compost. Almost any organic waste is suitable for it, and after a while, almost free fertilizer is obtained.
How to make your own compost
Compost contains the same nutrients as manure and in most cases the two fertilizers are interchangeable. It is only important to properly prepare the compost.
What is compost
Compost is a natural fertilizer obtained from various wastes of plant and animal origin by their decomposition. It is formed during the biodegradation of organic matter under the influence of microorganisms. Composting requires the presence of air, so they try to place the waste not in a pit, but in some kind of structure on the surface of the soil. In addition to air, biodegradation of organics requires high humidity and the ability to maintain internal heat.
During the season, the heap is constantly growing: the lower layers may already be almost ready, and fresh raw materials are still being applied on top
Properly prepared compost is a highly effective fertilizer that does not contain helminths, weed seeds and pathogenic microflora. Composts have favorable acidity for most crops (pH 6.7–8.4), contain about 3% nitrogen (half of it is in the ammonium form), up to 3% phosphorus and up to 2% potassium.
The list of trace elements contained in the compost is wide: zinc, copper, boron, molybdenum, etc.
Compost not only fertilizes the soil, but also improves its structure: it becomes loose and absorbent. Compost is widely used for mulching to conserve moisture and inhibit weed growth. Composting allows you to save money on the purchase of fertilizers, makes it possible to get rid of a large amount of garbage and waste.
How is compost prepared
You can start composting at any time, except for winter. As a rule, the first layers begin to form already at the beginning of summer, when weeds fall out, and by autumn the compost heap grows rapidly. For accelerated decomposition, it would be better if the process took place during the warm season. But life makes its own adjustments, the main amount of waste in the country occurs in the second half of summer and autumn.
Container for compost
If possible, a special box is prepared, but you can do without it by simply enclosing the compost heap with boards or slate sheets. For the construction of the box, you can use any boards, but not painted and not rotten. It can be of any size (not less than 1.5 x 1.5 m), but the height is convenient in the range of 1.0–1.2 m: with a higher pile, compost will be more difficult to care for.
The options for arranging a compost box are very diverse, it all depends on the owner's imagination and the availability of materials.
The box is built on a flat place or on a slight hill, so that the compost is not washed away by rainwater. During its construction, it is not necessary to adjust the boards: it is necessary to ensure sufficient access of oxygen. Often the front wall is made removable so that it is more convenient to add material and take ready-made compost. Many people put oilcloth or old linoleum on the bottom of the box, but this is not mandatory.
What can and cannot be composted
A variety of ingredients are added to the compost natural materials; the wider their list, the more trace elements the fertilizer will contain. The most common "participants":
You also need to know what does not belong in the compost heap. You should not put in it:
- large bones;
- meat and fish waste;
- perennial weeds with living roots;
- diseased, as well as pest-infected plants;
- waste containing toxic substances;
- products made of metal, rubber, plastic, glass, etc.
Fresh manure can only be added to the compost if it is expected to be prepared for at least a year.
Compost technology
As waste is generated, they are crushed and stacked in layers in a compost heap, periodically interbedded with layers of earth. The layer of earth is only 3–4 cm, it is poured when 15–25 cm of organic matter is accumulated. If the weather is dry, the pile must be watered to keep it constantly moist.
If the pile is small, it is worth shoveling it from time to time to increase air access. In winter, no one will do this at their summer cottage, but in the spring, with the beginning of the season, it is highly desirable to turn over the contents. If there is peat, it is periodically added to the pile. If possible, it is useful to water a pile of slurry.
The compost can be ready for use in 6-8 months. The finished fertilizer is a loose, homogeneous mass of brown color, without a strong odor: it should only smell a little like earth.
Video: how to prepare compost
Compost is an almost free organic fertilizer that every gardener can easily prepare on their site. It is only important to know what can be used to make compost and put in a little effort.
Discussing the benefits of composting is like discussing the benefits of clean hands, even indecent. Not only do we recycle garbage, we also get valuable organic fertilizer. The whole question is how to properly prepare compost in the country, how to make a compost box, and also how to speed up this process and not do extra work.
How is compost made?
Compost is organic waste decomposed by bacteria, fungi, worms and insects. The result is a nutrient substrate saturated with nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc. During natural heating, pathogenic microorganisms and helminth eggs, many weed seeds die in it. In addition, the amount of cellulose and pectins decreases, preventing plants from getting the same nitrogen and phosphorus in full. In general, a great thing to improve the quality of the soil. However, the production of compost has its own nuances.
Nicola's Garden Art Inc.
How to make compost on the site: with or without oxygen
First of all, it is worth deciding on the type of composting. There are two of them: aerobic occurs with the participation of oxygen, anaerobic - without it. Each method has its adherents.
With the anaerobic method, a hole 60-100 cm deep breaks out in the ground, it is desirable to concrete the bottom and sides in it. Chopped organic waste is placed in this pool, it is compacted, covered with a film and covered with a layer of earth on top. Ensiling begins in the pit, anaerobic bacteria slowly but surely doing their job.
Amy Renea
A full-fledged compost with this method will turn out at best by the next season. However, many gardeners do not wait, and after a month they use silage - lay it under the beds, cover it with soil and plant seeds. The silage will "reach" in the ground, but it will attract earthworms, the gardener's best friends. The closed type of composting has one more disadvantage, in addition to the long wait for the result: the smell of hydrogen sulfide, which, like methane, is abundantly released during the fermentation of wet waste. But, as the supporters of this method assure, it is worth it: supposedly anaerobic bacteria are more useful than aerobic ones, and “cold” (soil temperature rarely exceeds 35 degrees) composting is more useful than hot. In general, the longer organic matter decomposes, the more valuable microorganisms it contains. Like it or not, it's hard to say, but what closed type composting well survive the seeds of weeds - a fact.
Therefore, most often gardeners use the aerobic composting method, with the involvement of oxygen. We will discuss it in more detail.
Homefront Farmers
Jocelyn H. Chilvers
CompoKeeper
The gardener's path is strewn with hundreds of recommendations on how to compost. Some do not put fast-rooting plants like field bindweed in the compost - otherwise they will sprout and ruin the whole holiday (let them dry first). Others laugh at these tricks - everything will be overwritten. Whether to lay the tops of tomatoes and potatoes, strawberry leaves in the country compost - everyone also decides for himself. They are often afflicted with diseases, but this is not at all necessary. But if you treated plants with chemicals from pests, it’s definitely better not to put them in compost. Plants affected by viruses must be burned.
What are the dangers of hard and sharp elements in compost
“I would not recommend adding branches, hard stems (especially with thorns - from roses), cones to the compost - they decompose for 3-4 years, and usually they take a year to ripen the compost. As a result, sharp rigid elements remain in it, says landscape designer Anna Podolina, member of the environmental movement "Garbage. More. No", founded and supervises the direction of bio-recycling of waste. - For the same reason, any bones are dangerous! They are sharp, hard, sometimes do not decompose even in three years. When working in the garden, sharp fragments in the compost are easy to injure, a lot of bacteria will get into the wound. Very dangerous ones that cause tetanus can also get in! This is the main problem with the bones in the compost, and not that cats or dogs will visit. And from mice or rats in the country, no one is safe.
Grafted landscapes
How to make compost: the science of composting
Before making compost, let's look at the recipe. All organic matter for composting is divided into two main groups: nitrogenous and carbonaceous, or, as they are also called, "green" and "brown". From the name it is clear that one group actively produces nitrogen, the other - carbon. In well-placed compost, the layers of both groups should alternate. The bottom layer is "brown".
- Nitrogenous organics: fresh grass, food waste, vegetables and fruits, grains and seeds, flowers, algae, tea, coffee, manure and chicken manure.
- Organic carbon: dry leaves, needles, wood, twigs, sawdust, hay, straw, wood ash, paper.
- There are also neutral organics - for example, eggshells.
Claude Pasquer Architecte Paysagiste DPLG
Ideally, the ratio of carbon to nitrogen in mature compost should be 30:1. There are average parameters: for example, in fresh grass this ratio is 15:1, and in dry leaves it is 50:1. But to understand that it is time to adjust the balance, the nose will help you.
It is better to put large branches at the bottom of the compost bin, they will provide air access. You can have a very small "pillow" of sawdust - for drainage. Further nitrogenous layers alternate with carbon ones: green grass from the lawn we shift last year's leaves, etc. The optimal layer thickness is 15 cm. Sprinkle some earth on top of each layer - it already contains the necessary microorganisms, they will start the decomposition process faster. Also fill the box with earth from above. New waste is best placed in the middle of the pile so as not to attract flies and rodents.
Growers-chemists add dolomite flour, superphosphate and potassium to the composter, but with proper care compost will receive all the necessary minerals without these additives.
Claude Pasquer Architecte Paysagiste DPLG
What happens if you don't alternate layers
Nitrogenous materials are called a "furnace" - they decompose and heat up. The hotter the pile, the faster the compost matures. However, this environment is too acidic and there is little oxygen in it. You can deoxidize the nitrogenous layer with ash or chalk. Or add carbon materials to the "furnace" - they do not heat up, contain a lot of air and consume nitrogen. At the same time, without nitrogenous materials, carbonaceous materials will decompose for a very long time. To speed them up, they are sometimes flavored with urea or saltpeter at the rate of 1 kg per 1 cubic meter.
Watch the temperature. If it exceeds 70 degrees, beneficial bacteria will die. If the pile "burns", its contents must be transferred to another box or mixed well.
GARDIGAME
How to make a composter
For waste composting, pits, trenches, heaps, boxes are made, ready-made composters are used. Whatever it is, it is better to choose a place in the shade, otherwise the moisture from the waste will quickly evaporate, and you will have to water your treasure all the time.
Pits are usually used for cold composting. For hot - heaps and boxes. A compost heap is not the most pleasant sight. It is laid in a trapezoid, the height and width of the pile should not exceed 1.5 m.
Most often, a box is made for composting - this way the contents do not crumble, it is convenient to mix it, and it looks neater than a pile. Plastic composter boxes are sold in stores, they cost from 2 thousand rubles and more. But why overpay?
Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting
How to make a DIY compost bin
To do this, you can use boards, pallets, old barrels or a metal mesh like a chain-link. The device of the compost box is quite simple. It should be no more than 1.5 m high, otherwise it will be difficult to mix the contents to ensure ventilation - without it, rotting will begin with bad smell. The length and width of the box do not have clear standards, most often it is 1x2 m and 1x1.5 m. You should not make a box less than 1 m wide, since the compost mass may not be enough for heating.
Steve Lick Timberworks
Sometimes the site under the composter is concreted - this is convenient for collecting mature compost, but worsens drainage and blocks the path for earthworms. The same applies to "pillows" made of clay, peat or sand. They are needed only if the compost is made from faeces and slurry.
When it comes to garden waste, it is more convenient to place the compost block directly on the ground. The most important thing is to provide air access on the sides and bottom. Therefore, the box stands on bars or boards. It does not have a solid bottom: large branches are placed directly on the bars, and already on them - sawdust for drainage, grass and everything else. Above - earth or peat.
GARDIGAME
In the photo: the net protects the composter from rodents, but does not prevent it from “ventilating”
birdseye design
The box is a relative concept. It is more convenient for someone to drill holes in a barrel that has served its purpose, for someone - to dig four pillars and enclose them with a net. And someone - to build a whole compost palace under the roof.
At Home Organic Farms
Lid and door are useful but optional options. The door will help to extract the finished compost from below if you are not going to dig up the contents of the box. You can even make a folding board. The lid will close the box from the sun and intruders.
BLUEWAGON LANDSCAPE & DESIGN INC
Where to put the compost bin and how to decorate
According to sanitary standards, the composting device should be removed 8 m from the well, including the neighbor's one. If the site has a slope, then the pit is made below the well. One meter must be retreated from the fence.
If there is not enough space, a compost bin can be made from one section, two or even three - fresh compost ripens in one, and the finished mixture awaits its fate in the second. And the third - for shifting, so that the decomposition process goes faster.
Stepanova Elena
In the photo: a vertical flower bed- a good idea how to make a garden composter with your own hands
As long as there are compost bins, gardeners have been racking their brains on how to hide them in the surrounding beauty. One of the most interesting ways is a decorative flower bed made in a table on wheels. It is rolled over the composter. When you need access to the box, the flower bed-table is moved away. Another way is to combine the composter with the flower bed at once.
Noland Landscape Design
In the photo: you can cover the compost bin with screens, trellises or a green roof
Claude Pasquer Architecte Paysagiste DPLG
In the photo: you can even make a garden sculpture out of a composter. For example, a mushroom
How to speed up the maturation of compost in the country
Of course, all gardeners though know how to quickly make compost. Depending on the composition and care, it can mature from two months to two years. The easiest way to speed up this process is to add biopreparations with bacteria. There are many of them on the market: Baikal EM-1, Vostok EM-1, Vozrozhdenie, Shine, Urgasa, Humisol, Tamir. Most accelerators are classified as microbiological fertilizers for soil improvement. Depending on the brand, they may contain lactic acid, nitrogen-fixing and photosynthetic bacteria, microscopic yeasts, radiant fungi and their metabolic products. This army accelerates the decomposition of organic waste and suppresses pathogens. Each layer is sprayed with a solution with bacteria (carefully read the dilution instructions). After that, the contents are usually poured with water, covered with earth and covered with polyethylene.
Elena Veselova
If you do not trust bottled preparations, use ready-made, mature compost instead - sprinkle it between layers. This material is teeming with working microorganisms, so that after 2-3 months you can get the finished material. You can speed up decomposition by watering the ripening compost with manure infusion or adding bird droppings to it. Some gardeners water the pile with herbal infusion (herbal starter cultures).
When looking for the perfect method for making compost quickly, remember that the finer the waste, the faster it will decompose. Therefore, it is worth cutting the branches, tearing the paper, etc.
How to care for compost
In aerobic composting, microorganisms need air. Therefore, the compost needs to be mixed from time to time. You can do this as early as 10 days after the bookmark. While mixing, loosen the contents, there should be no lumps in it.
So that the compost does not clog and ensiling does not begin, it is better to dry the tops and grass before laying it in the box.
For effective decomposition, organic matter needs moisture, the compost should not dry out. But you can’t fill it either, it will slow down the process. The ideal humidity is 60%. We check this way: we take the compost from the depth and squeeze it in our hand - if drops of moisture appear, then there is enough water. When it rains, the composter must be closed. Forgot to close - mix the contents. Waterlogged - add waste from the carbon group, they will remove the water.
GARDIGAME
Keep a balance of nitrogen and hydrocarbons. If the compost has cooled down quickly or does not want to heat up at all, then you need to add waste from the nitrogenous group - for example, fresh grass. There was a smell of ammonia - it's time to add carbonaceous components. Whether to add in such cases store fertilizers - urea or saltpeter - is a moot point. Most gardeners believe that this impairs the quality and environmental friendliness of the product, so it is better to get by with natural remedies. The smell of rotten eggs indicates a lack of oxygen - take a pitchfork and mix the compost. Those who do not have the opportunity to regularly mix the contents of the compost bin shift the layers with large branches, this prevents them from caking.
Nature's Realm
What is a composting trench
special kind compost pit- trench bed. Usually it is dug to a depth of half a meter. In summer, waste is dumped into it, sprinkled with mature humus, watered with manure infusion. Covered with sawdust for the winter. Such beds are ideal for planting cucumbers, zucchini and watermelons with melons.
Sushi photo
On the next year when the nitrogen in the trench decreases, you can plant onions, cabbage or tomatoes with peppers here. Compost beds are effective for five years. The last in them is better to plant carrots and potatoes. And then refill with fresh compost.
Amy Renea
How to make compost in trash bags
One of the most popular composting techniques in recent times involves the use of thick plastic garbage bags. Actually, there are two methods. First: mix nitrogen and carbon waste (grass and dry leaves) in a bag, tie a bag, make holes in it with a pitchfork and leave it like that for a year. The advantage over traditional composting is that the bag is more convenient to move, and it thaws faster than the pile.
The second method is “fast”: a layer of turf is placed on the bottom of the bag, then organic matter is poured, which is spilled with Baikal or another compost accelerator. The bag is tightly tied, wrapped with tape and not touched for two months. Usually by this time the fertilizer is ready.
CompoKeeper
There is an opinion that the bags must be necessarily black, opaque. But, as experience shows, the son of mistakes, even in construction bags, under the influence of biostimulants, the grass overheats quickly. Experienced gardeners and, especially, environmentalists are skeptical about such experiments - they are not environmentally friendly.
Vermicomposting
In vermicomposting, earthworms are the main labor force. They pass organics along with microorganisms and fungi through themselves, turning them into valuable fertilizer.
Why are worms good? They not only accelerate the maturation of compost, but also saturate it with useful substances, disinfect it, and give it a granular form. It does not use any questionable additives. Compost processed by worms is called biohumus and costs decent money in stores. And the worker from the worm is wonderful, it is able to produce up to 100 grams of useful substrate per season. It is not surprising that this method is gaining popularity from year to year; many benefits are devoted to breeding worms on the site. Let's go over the main principles.
Mark Hickman Homes
Worms are different. The performance of specially bred Californian and our "prospectors" is much higher than that of ordinary rain. But they die more often, freeze and do not always take root - especially if they fall into the hands of a beginner. Local individuals, accustomed to climate and soil, are much more tenacious.
To breed worms, you will need a worm nursery. They are made in pipes, boxes (piles), beds, but not in pits. Most often it is a box-cube about a meter high with a door at the bottom. Below is a fine mesh so that moles do not crawl through. 30-40 cm of ready-made or semi-ripe compost are placed in it, watered and left to “lie down”. After a week, you can put worms in the compost in their native soil - that is, not just pour out a jar of residents, but bury a lump of earth with worms in the compost. This is necessary for their nutritional adaptation. Then you can add new compost and do not forget to water it (just do not ice water). The substrate that the worms process is recommended to be mineralized from time to time - gradually add ground gypsum, chalk, eggshells, dolomite flour.
Steve Masley Consulting and Design
For the worm, a place in the shade is chosen. From above, it is better to close the box with a lid, and if it is a ridge, then with straw or burlap. Whether the worms have switched to a new substrate will be seen by their condition. The accustomed tenants will be clean and mobile. The recycled vermicompost will be at the bottom - that's what the door is for. To prevent stale compost in the wormhole, it must be dug up, but not with a shovel, but with a pitchfork, so as not to damage the worms. An important point: these workers do not tolerate an acidic or too alkaline environment. PH - from 6 to 8. To reduce acidity, use dolomite flour and chalk, and alkalinity - gypsum. Do not forget that ash is a strong alkali, be careful with it.
After the temperature drops below 4 degrees, and the worms hibernate, do not forget to fill them with "feed" - so that in the spring there is something to eat. From above, the box is covered with earth by 30 cm and covered with straw. And close all the cracks so that rodents do not get into it. For reliability, you can spill the worm with water - it will become an impregnable ice fortress.
Pennsylvania Landscape & Nursery Association
Can it be used as mushroom compost?
If you are looking for how to make compost for champignons, then keep in mind: the substrate that resulted from the decomposition of organic waste is not suitable for growing mushrooms. Mushroom compost is prepared within a month from horse or cow manure, chicken manure or a mixture thereof, wheat or alfalfa straw, alabaster and / or chalk, water. Initially, all components are laid in layers, and then they are interrupted several times. Depending on the composition, there is a certain order of transfers and the introduction of new components so that the soil for the mycelium is properly formed. Growing champignons is a whole science and a separate topic.
B. Jane Gardens
Relax and enjoy
“From the abundance of information to a beginner, it may seem that compost is something very complex and requires constant attention, supervision and action. In fact, compost is very simple, - says Anna Podolina from the environmental movement "Garbage. More. No." - Even if you just dump suitable crushed organic matter in one place, in two years it will turn into “black earth” itself. Air access is important, but often the slots in the sides of the composter are enough for it, only occasionally it is turned. I don't make lids or bottoms. It's raining - no big deal! Dried out for a while - also does not matter.
Do you want less smell and a more “scientific” composition? Shift leftover food waste with mowed grass and sometimes sprinkle with earth. If you really want to speed up the process, you can spill it with a “bio-solution” from the store or diluted urea. But why rush? It’s easier and more logical to just make two composters: one fills up in a year, the second “reaches”.
May 17, 2018 azarova
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