Garden care in spring: processing fruit trees and ornamental shrubs.

Healthy, blooming garden, which brings a rich harvest, largely depends on proper, high-quality care, especially in the spring. The time of awakening of all living things is important and troublesome for gardeners. Perform all work depending on weather conditions and climate zone.

First work in the garden

Work in the garden begins with the release of planting branches from melted snow, if at the end of winter there was an abundance of precipitation. From the spring sun, the snow becomes loose and heavy, it can easily break thin branches. To avoid this, shake it off. If the branches have already sagged and fallen, build supports to support them.

The following advice is relevant for sloped areas. So that the melt water lingers, and the flood does not erode the soil, build shafts of snow across the slope.

Stock up on melt water - it is rich in useful trace elements. To do this, the containers must be filled with snow and added as it melts.

With the advent of spring, not only vegetation wakes up - rodents and pests are ready to become more active. Inspect existing bait poisons, prepare new ones if necessary.

The snow has melted - start cleaning the garden. Collect old leaves and other debris, get rid of weeds if they have appeared.

Whitewashing - protection of horticultural crops

How to whitewash trees

Even before the snow has completely melted and the trees “wake up”, choose a dry day and whitewash.

Before work, prepare trees with damage: clean the trunk with a brush, remove dead bark, at the same time pests that have overwintered and survived in it will be destroyed. Growths, lichens are also cleaned off. Cover all open cracks with garden pitch. Whitewash after the treated areas are completely dry.

Early whitewashing - a double benefit for the tree:

1. It will prevent burns that may appear on the bark from bright spring rays, so use only White color.
2. Protects the tree trunk from insect pests.

Which solution to apply is up to you. acrylic paint rains are not terrible - this whitewash is the most resistant. You can use special store solutions and self-prepared ones, with the addition of any adhesive.

How to whitewash fruit trees

The most common is whitewashing with lime:

• 2.5 kg of lime is diluted per bucket of water;
• half liter blue vitriol;
• wood glue is added - 200 grams, so that the solution on the tree lasts longer.

Whitewash based on manure and lime:

• 1 kg of lime and manure;
• 200 grams of copper sulfate;
• mix these components in 8 liters of water, leave for about 2 hours.

Clay-based whitewash solution:

• mix 1 kg of oily clay in 10 liters of water;
• 2 kg of slaked lime;
• a shovel of cow dung;
• 250 grams of copper sulfate.

Leave for 2 hours Whiten young trees with a mixture based on chalk, under such a solution the bark will breathe freely.

Spraying trees and shrubs in the garden

Garden care in the spring is a mandatory prevention of the appearance of pests and the fight against diseases.

When to Treat Trees

Process fruit and berry crops with special preparations at least 3 times:

• before vegetation (bud swelling);
• before flowering;
• 7-10 days after flowering.

How to spray fruit trees

Early spraying of trees with Bordeaux liquid or blue vitriol, urea, (urea) will save plants from many problems. There are other means of processing: chemical, combined, but the above are effective and one of the most budgetary. Which drug to choose, the gardener decides.

1. Start the first treatment when the temperature has reached 5 °C. During this period, spraying will destroy successfully overwintered pests.
2. The use of special preparations before flowering will help protect the buds, cope with pest larvae and fungal diseases.
3. The next treatment is needed to destroy the emerging insects and fruit rot.

Remember that it is not recommended to spray trees during flowering.

tree nutrition

Garden maintenance includes fertilizing the trees in the spring to nourish and improve the quality of the soil. All the necessary elements for plant growth are obtained through mineral fertilizers, so do not forget about them every year. Organic: compost, peat, manure is enough to use once every 2-3 years. Usually, in the spring, the soil is fed with nitrogen, and in the fall, manure, phosphorus, and potassium are used.

Timing of fertilizer application

Apply the first fertilizer in March. Mineral mixtures dissolve well, they can be sprinkled on the snow. Together with melt water, useful substances are absorbed into the ground. On a plot with a slope, such top dressing will not be effective: it will be carried away by melt water.

Another option is relevant for all fruit and berry crops: apply 2/3 doses of nitrogen fertilizers when you dig up tree trunks.

Dosage of organic and mineral fertilizers for the garden

Be attentive to the process of fertilizing: fruit-bearing trees will be negatively affected by both a lack and an excess of minerals. For example, the irregularity of such a useful element as nitrogen can affect frost resistance and overall plant growth.

More accurate fertilizer application data is shown in the table.

Table 1. Dose of fertilizer application per fruit tree

Planting year	Trunk circle diameter, m	Organic fertilizers, kg	Mineral fertilizers, g
			Nitrogen	Phosphorus	Potassium
2nd	2,0	6	10	10	15
3, 4th	2,5	10	20	20	30
5th, 6th	3,0	15	30	30	45
7th, 8th	3,5	20	60	40	60
9th, 10th	4,0	25	75	50	75
11th, 12th	5,0	40	120	80	150

In addition to mineral fertilizers for top dressing, use organic matter: manure and compost. Decayed manure improves soil properties. Clay in structure becomes less viscous, and light, free-flowing increase their moisture capacity. Organic fertilizers not only have a positive effect on the soil, but also nourish with useful elements.

Valentina Kravchenko, expert

How to properly fertilize plants

Do not feed young plants, start this useful process from the second year of the trees' life.

When applying fertilizer, consider the following factors:

• plants better absorb the liquid form of fertilizers;
• do not fertilize near the trunk: the roots that absorb nutrients are located along the perimeter of the branches;
• apply fertilizer in the evening or on a cloudy day;
• so that the roots do not get burned, first moisten the soil, only then apply liquid fertilizers;
• keep the earth near the tree in a loose state, so the plant “breathes” better;
• after applying dry fertilizer, water the near-stem area along with top dressing.

Pruning - effective sanitary cleaning

Trees and shrubs that are not pruned during their growth look worse, age faster, and their yield decreases.

When to prune fruit trees

Finish all pruning work before the buds begin to swell. Before performing the procedure, wait until the temperature column drops to minus 5 °C, and night frosts to minus 10 °C will not return.

During pruning, material is also collected for subsequent vaccination. fruit trees. Selected shoots are cut, grafted immediately or stored in a dark, cool place until sap flow occurs.

The Basics of Successful Pruning of Garden Plants

• start pruning before the start of sap flow;
• first of all, free the tree from shoots damaged during cold weather, this is an extra burden that only hinders the development of the plant;
• remove dry and broken branches;
• cover the cuts with garden pitch if branches with a diameter of more than 15 cm are cut;
• first cultivate fruit-bearing plants, and young growth 10-15 days later.

Care and planting seedlings

Inspection and treatment of trees in spring

If the frosts have receded, remove the heaters from the stems. Inspect the trees to see if they are intact, if rodents have reached them.

If there is an injury, heal the tree:

1. Clean the bark spoiled by mice and treat with iron sulphate (for this, a 5% solution is taken), then cover with garden pitch.
2. The tree that the hares have reached receives more serious damage. In this case, "bridge" vaccinations are used.

Planting seedlings in spring

Planting work in the garden in the spring, start as soon as the snow recedes, 2 weeks before the growing season. Until the trees “woke up”, planting will be more efficient.

• Check the soil so that it is not frozen; seedlings will not survive in such soil.
• Dip the roots of the tree in a clay mash, this will increase the adhesion of the bottom of the tree to the ground.
• Prepare pits for new plants in the fall, then you can fill them with fertilizers.
• If fertilizers were not applied before winter, then at the bottom of the pit where you plant the tree, fill in the rotted manure. Apply a nitrogen-based fertilizer some time after planting.

Well-conducted spring care will affect how trees and shrubs will be prepared for the new season. A responsible approach to work in the garden will ensure a high result - a well-groomed, beautiful, healthy, fruitful garden.

Care of her soil. Young trees do not use the entire area allotted to them for a number of years. Therefore, in the aisles, you can grow strawberries, carrots, beets, onions, cucumbers, tomatoes, vegetable beans, radishes, early cabbage, potatoes, and other plants unsuitable for cultivation in the aisles with a long growing season (late cabbage, zucchini, eggplant), berries ( raspberries, currants, gooseberries), as well as cereals, sunflowers, corn, which attract many mice and are competitors for fruit plants in water and nutrients.

The period before the garden begins to bear fruit (5-6 years after planting trees) is most favorable for growing vegetables. Therefore, in a young garden they grow head and cauliflower, onions, root vegetables, zucchini, pumpkin, tomatoes, dill, lettuce, radish, potatoes, sorrel, rhubarb.

At the beginning of the fruiting period (age 6-9 years), root vegetables, tomatoes, early cabbage and cauliflower, onions, lettuce, dill, sorrel, rhubarb, and early potatoes are grown in the garden.

In the first years of the fruiting period (the age of the garden is about 9-15 years), the crowns of the trees have not yet reached full development. Therefore, table beets, turnips, cauliflower, onions, lettuce, dill, rhubarb, and sorrel are grown in the garden.

During the period of full fruiting (the age of the garden is 18-20 years or more), the most shade-tolerant crops are grown: table beets, onions, lettuce, sorrel, rhubarb.

Since the bulk of the roots of the fruit tree is located within the near-stem circle, it is kept in a loose and weed-free state. In autumn, after harvesting, the soil is dug up to a depth of 18-20 cm under apple and pear trees and 12-15 cm under cherries and plums. Near the stem, the soil is dug up to a depth of 5-6 cm. Some damage to the roots should not be feared. Usually roots with a diameter of less than 6-8 cm (pencil thickness) are easily restored. Thicker skeletal and semi-skeletal roots should be protected from mechanical damage, especially in trees on bedbug rootstocks.

Fallen leaves are raked and piled for composting or burned before digging. In spring and in the first half of summer, tree trunks are weeded and loosened (with a pitchfork, hoe) 4-5 times to a depth of 5-10 cm.

In August, soil loosening is not carried out, as this contributes to the ripening of shoots and the preparation of trees for winter. This system of keeping the soil in the near-stem circles, called black fallow, worsens the properties of the soil with 7-8 years or more of its long-term application. Therefore, it is advisable to replace the system.

One of the best systems soil content in tree trunks is mulching. When mulching, covering the surface of the soil with mulch material, its temperature and food regimes are favorably formed, the growth of weeds is suppressed. Peat, humus, manure, leaves, compost, mowed grass, sawdust, paper, various synthetic films, sand, stones are used as mulch materials.

Fruit Tree Fertilizer promotes them good development, early entry into the fruiting period. In the first year after planting, the plants are not fertilized, as enough fertilizer has been applied to the planting hole. However, trunk circles must be mulched. Only from the second year of the life of trees, fertilizers begin to be applied to the tree trunks.

Approximate doses of organic and mineral fertilizers per tree when they are applied together and depending on the age of the trees are shown in Table. 4.

With separate application of mineral and organic fertilizers, their dose is increased by 1.5-2 times. The given doses are calculated on the soil of an average level of fertility. On highly fertile soils, the doses of fertilizer are reduced, and on poor soils, they are increased by 1.5 times. Under stone fruit trees, fertilizers are applied to the near-stem circle up to 4-5 years of age.

Manure and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied in the fall, nitrogen - in the spring during the first loosening. Organic fertilizers in the garden are applied once every 2-3 years, on poor soils - annually. To feed young trees, first of all, local organic fertilizers are used, when applying liquid top dressing, urine and slurry are diluted 5-6 times, and feces and bird droppings - 10-12 times, spending one bucket per 1 sq. m. Mineral fertilizers are applied in liquid or dry form, in the latter case, watering is required. In the spring, 2/3 of the total dose of nitrogen fertilizers is applied for digging tree trunks.

If the first dressing is used for all fruit and berry crops, then the second and third (in the first half of summer) - selectively on weakened trees. The second top dressing is carried out during the period of increased shoot growth, the third - after 30-40 days in case of weak shoot growth with complete mineral fertilizer (NPK). Acidic soils are limed once every 5-7 years, adding lime materials at a rate of 1 kg / sq. m. Phosphorus and potash fertilizers close up in the area where the bulk of the roots are located. The best way introduction - focal. The foci are made in the form of pits along the periphery of the crown or grooves around the trunk circle. Usually, mineral fertilizers in combination with organic fertilizers are applied to a depth of 30-40 cm.

Fertilizing the garden during the fruiting period should be planned as follows. In the spring-summer period, plants must be provided with all the necessary elements, especially nitrogen, due to the need to increase the activity of flowering, fruit set, shoot growth, crop formation and fruit buds.

In the summer-autumn period, the second wave of root growth takes place, the development of fruit buds and the accumulation of nutrients continue.

The nutrients accumulated in the summer-autumn period affect not only the quality of the fruits of this year, but also the winter hardiness and yield of the next year. In the summer-autumn period, it is necessary to provide complete phosphorus-potassium nutrition while reducing the supply of plants with nitrogen. On soils with poor physical properties, organic fertilizers are applied annually at a dose of 2-3 kg/sq. m., on poorly cultivated soils, the dose is increased by 1.5 times. On medium-cultivated soils for pome crops, mineral fertilizers are applied in doses of N 18-20 R 8-10 K 18-20 (g / sq. M.). under stone fruit dose is reduced by 1.5 times. All phosphate fertilizers and 2/3 nitrogen and potassium fertilizers are added to the main dressing. Top dressing is given 1-3 times during the growing season.

For better fertilization of flowers and preservation of young shoots at the beginning of mass flowering, plants are sprayed with a solution of microelements at a concentration of: borax 1 g / l or zinc sulfate 0.1-0.2 g / l or manganese sulfate 0.2 g / l or a mixture of three microelements with a dose reduction of each by 2 times.

With a lack of copper on drained peat soils, copper sulphate is applied at a dose of 2.5-3 g / sq. m. or carry out foliar feeding with this microfertilizer at a concentration of 0.2 -0.5 g / l.

Watering fruit trees. The lack of water in the summer period with high air temperature leads to premature aging of the leaves and the whole tree, a sharp reduction in the productive period in the life of plants. For this reason, trees do not bear fruit regularly, go into winter unprepared, and are often damaged by frost. Excess soil moisture also has a negative effect on the plant, as oxygen is displaced from the soil and carbon dioxide accumulates, which leads to inhibition and death of the root system.

In the first years after planting, trees are watered 3-4 times during spring and the first half of summer, and in dry years - 5-8 times. For one watering, 2-3 buckets of water are spent per planted tree, 10-15 buckets per 7-10-year-old tree.

Approximately for the depth of the root zone and the active absorption of water for fruit plants, the following is taken: in young fruit-bearing orchards of seed species (apple, pear) on vigorous rootstocks, in fruit-bearing seed orchards on dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstocks, in fruit-bearing stone fruit - 0.5-0, 7 m, in black currant - up to 40 cm in young plants and up to 70 cm in fruit-bearing ones, in gooseberries - up to 25 cm in young ones and up to 60 cm in fruit-bearing ones, in adult raspberry bushes - up to 30-50 cm, in strawberries - up to 20-25 cm. Watering should wet the soil to this depth.

Berry and fruit trees on low-growing rootstocks with a thin root system need to be watered first and more often than plants with a deep root system. Full-grown gardens tend to need less frequent watering. After watering, the soil of the near-stem circle must be mulched. It is advisable to stop watering 15-30 days before harvesting autumn-winter varieties.

The last late autumn watering in October during the period of leaf fall is of great importance for increasing the winter hardiness of the tree, activates the growth of roots, and prevents the shoots from drying out. The approximate rate of late autumn irrigation is 5-6 buckets per 1 sq. m. in a dry autumn. Watering trees in near-stem funnels is considered incorrect, since water does not get to the terminal active roots. It is recommended to carry out irrigation along the grooves along the circumference of the near-stem circle or at the periphery of the crown.

The experience of watering wells is interesting. For 1-2 sq. m. near the trunk circle make a well with a diameter of 10-12 cm and up to 50 cm deep, it is filled with gravel, broken bricks or coarse sand. Through the wells, they not only water, but also apply liquid fertilizers. In autumn they are covered to protect the soil and roots from freezing. In gardens and berry fields, irrigation is often used according to the principle of sprinkling, when water pipes laid on the site, arrange special sprayers.

To save irrigation water, drip irrigation is promising, which ensures a slow flow of water into the root zone and its distribution in the soil in vertical and horizontal directions. For a young tree, one dropper is installed near the trunk, for an adult - two on opposite sides of the trunk. Water is supplied within 1-3 days, depending on the rate of irrigation and the rate of water outflow from the dropper. For example, with an irrigation rate of 40 l / sq. m. and a water flow rate of 2 l / h, the dropper should operate for 24 hours, and with a break at night - more than a day. Drip irrigation is used not only on ordinary flat, but also on areas with uneven terrain, on slopes and on almost all types of soils. Industry releases different types droppers. The main disadvantage of drip irrigation is the clogging of droppers with solid impurities and salt deposits.

Protection of trees from rodents. V winter period mouse-like rodents, hares and water rats cause great harm to young and fruit-bearing fruit trees, which eat their bark and roots. To protect fruit trees from rodents and frost holes, their trunks are tied (in November) with roofing felt, roofing material or spruce branches (needles down), weeds and other debris are removed from the garden, and snow is periodically compacted (trampled) in tree trunks. The trunks are tied tightly, without gaps, to the very ground; the lower part of the strapping is sprinkled with earth below.

It is impossible to coat tree trunks with deterrent substances - nigrol, autosol, chemicals, since tree tissues under the influence of these substances lose their winter hardiness and die from freezing.

To combat water rats that damage the root system of trees, they dig furrows with sheer walls 35 cm deep and set traps and traps in them. This work is carried out in August, when water rats move from reservoirs to gardens, overcoming a distance of 1-2 km.

Care of the trunk and skeletal branches. The longevity of a fruit tree is largely due to the maintenance of the trunk and main skeletal branches in a healthy state. Trunks are damaged by mouse-like rodents, hares, goats, low temperatures in winter time and etc.

To improve the health of trunks and skeletal branches in autumn (early October) or early spring, they are cleaned of mosses, lichens and dead bark, under which pupae and eggs of insect pests accumulate. Clean the trunks with wooden knives made of durable wood, metal scrapers or wire brushes. The cleaned material is collected on a litter, then burned.

In the winter-spring period (in March), bark and wood die off on the south side of the trunk. These are the so-called sunburns. Their appearance is associated with sharp fluctuations in the temperature of the crust in the daytime and at night, reaching several tens of degrees.

The most reliable way to deal with burns is to whitewash the trees with lime mortar in early November, before the soil freezes, or in February. The surface of the trunk, painted white, reflects direct sunlight, prevents the heating of the bark and the possibility of sunburn disappears.

The trunk and bases of skeletal branches are covered with lime. For whitewashing, slaked lime is used, which is diluted with water before use (2-3 kg of lime per 10 liters of water) with the addition of 2% glue and 2% common salt.

Treatment of wounds on trees resulting from improper pruning, broken limbs, sunburn, rodent damage, etc., helps to increase the lifespan of fruit trees. Work begins with cutting with a garden knife or chisel of dead parts to healthy wood. The cleaned place is disinfected with a solution of copper sulfate (300 g per 10 liters of water) and covered with garden pitch. To speed up the healing of small wounds, on which the formation of an influx has ceased, wounds are furrowed in May: with a garden knife, cuts are made in the bark around the wound, without damaging the wood. Large wounds are closed with putty prepared by mixing one part clay and one part fresh mullein, and tied with burlap.

Treatment of hollows. Via various tools(chisels, knives, etc.) rotten wood is removed from the hollow to healthy wood. The surface of the hollow is disinfected with a solution of ferrous sulfate (500 g per 10 liters of water), the hollow is filled with rubble or broken bricks, filled with a thick solution of freshly slaked lime or a mixture of 1 part of cement and 3 parts of sand. The filling should completely fill the hollow, but should not protrude above its edges. Small hollows after cleaning can be filled with a wooden cork. When sawing off the cork along the edges of the hollow, a small incision is made in living wood to stimulate the formation of an influx, the wound is cleaned with a knife and covered with garden pitch.

Annular lesions of the bark on the trunk do not overgrow. The tree may die entirely. Drying of such trees is prevented by grafting with a bridge. Cuttings for grafting can be prepared from shoots from the roots or from a bole below the injury site (Fig. 4). In case of damage to the bark at the root neck, grafting of shoots or specially planted one-year-olds can be used.

Frost fighting. In the central regions of the Non-Chernozem zone of the RSFSR, late spring frosts (drops in air temperature below 0 ° C at positive average daily temperatures) occur in May, less often in early June. They can occur due to the invasion of cold air masses of air from the north or northeast, as well as due to the night radiation of heat from the earth's surface. Often frosts coincide with the flowering of plants and the setting of fruits. Opened flower buds are damaged at a temperature of - 2.2-3.9°C, flowers - at - 1.5-2.5 and ovaries - at - 0.6-1.1°C.

The most common and accessible way protecting gardens from frost are smoke screens. They help to reduce soil heat loss and prevent a decrease in air temperature in the surface layer. For smoke screens, smoke heaps from organic materials of rotten straw, twigs, brushwood, weeds, peat, leaves, sawdust, which produce a large amount of thick smoke, and special smoke bombs (NDSH, A-5) are used. Smoke heaps or bombs are lit from the lee side of the garden when the temperature drops to + 2 ° C and continues for at least an hour after sunrise.

Good protection of fruit plants from spring frosts is watering the garden. Water, having a large specific and latent heat, releases heat when it freezes (1 liter releases 80 kilocalories). Therefore, in connection with watering the garden before freezing, the temperature difference can reach 2-3 ° C; this is enough to protect the flowers from damage. An even greater effect is achieved when using sprinkling over the crowns of trees before the flowers begin to freeze. Sprinkling starts when the air temperature drops above 0°C in the morning and stops when the ice on the trees melts. During protective spraying, the ice must remain wet. A break in sprinkling during frost leads to the death of flowers. Irrigation can be successfully carried out makeshift gadgets. A garden rubber hose with a spray tip is connected to the water supply network. If there are no spray nozzles, a half-inch tube 3-4 m long with 1 mm holes can be attached to the hose. If there is no running water on the site, sprinkling can be done using an electric pump that pumps water from a well, pond or some other body of water. Flowers and ovaries of strawberries, currants and gooseberries can be protected from spring frosts by covering them with burlap, matting, paper, plastic wrap.

Pollination of fruit plants. Fruit plants, except for nut plants, are cross-pollinated entomophilous (pollinated by insects) plants. Even in breeds and varieties with a high degree of self-fertility, cross-pollination increases the set, the percentage of useful ovary, the average fruit weight and yield. Major flower pollinators fruit crops- honey bees. Among other insects that pollinate fruit flowers, the most significant group are solitary wild bees. Their number in gardens depends mainly on the presence near virgin lands and fallows, pastures, forests, inconvenient lands and thickets of reeds, where these insects build nests and breed. However, solitary wild bees cannot be considered a reliable pollinator for orchards. One or two families of bees on 12-15 personal plots increase the yield of fruit plants by 20-50%.

To enhance the work of bees on blackcurrants, pears and some other plants that they do not visit well, training is carried out - the bees are fed with sugar syrup infused on the buds or the first opened flowers of these plants. During the flowering period, the treatment of gardens with pesticides is prohibited. If there is a need for such processing, the entrances of the hives are closed for a certain period.

Chatalovka or the substitution of supports under the trees is necessary in order to avoid their damage, breaks under the weight of the fruit crop. Supports are installed under trees (apple, pear, etc.) when the fruits reach the size walnut(Fig. 5). After the fruits are harvested, the supports are removed for storage, they can serve for several years.

The best way to fasten the crown is considered to be the central wire fastening, which lasts for a number of years (Fig. 6).

Harvesting. The timing of the harvest of fruits significantly affects their quality. The mass of fruits increases greatly in the last days of ripening. Fruits harvested prematurely are insufficiently colored, have a worse taste, wither during storage and lose quality. With a delay in harvesting, crop losses from shedding increase; in early and medium-term varieties, the fruits overripe and lose their taste. Overripe fruits are poorly stored and unsuitable for canning.

At the end of summer, every summer resident and gardener has a lot of work, because, in addition to harvesting and harvesting, it will be necessary to carry out many more works on own site. This applies to flowers, shrubs and trees, tillage, fertilization, etc., but today we will consider only some ways of autumn care for fruit trees in the garden and talk about how to prepare them for the colder season. So, autumn garden care is on site.

We all understand perfectly well that the end of summer and the beginning of autumn is a rather difficult period for each owner of their own plots. There will be a lot of work here, and it must be done very correctly in order to leave the garden strong and resistant in winter, and see it in good condition in the spring.

How to care for trees and bushes in autumn? (video)

Autumn tree care

tree pruning

Pruning is the most basic way to adjust yield. It can be carried out in spring and autumn, it all depends on the type of plants. Now that summer is coming to an end, get ready to remove all weak and internal shoots, dried and broken branches from the trees in the near future. There will be no sense from them next year, the maximum that they can offer is a small, underdeveloped crop that will not bring any joy.

tree molding

This procedure is not necessary for all trees. Carefully inspect the garden and make sure that the branches of each tree grow correctly, forming the necessary crown. If this is not the case, and some branches reach the sun strictly vertically, they should be slightly lowered and given a more horizontal direction. This can be done with the help of a tied load, just be extremely careful, not every branch can withstand a large load. And in general, it is worth doing it gradually, it is better to add weight every 5-7 days than to immediately thoughtlessly break off strong tree branches. You can also form a crown with a pruner. Here already apply cropping rules for yield to form appearance did not affect the number of fruits expected next year.

Removing tops

If, after pruning trees, warm weather decided to please us again before winter and made the plants come to life again, expect a large number tops. In fact, they are not needed at all and should be removed. This can be done with secateurs or by simply breaking off with your hands. Try not to cause much harm to the trees, this may affect their wintering. After these operations, treat the wounded vegetation with a garden pitch (by the way, we recommend using it in every case that is associated with the removal of branches or tree shoots).

bark protection

One of important points tree care is the maximum protection of their bark from external influences. In spring we can find vertical cracks in the bark. They are quite deep and harm the plants. Cracks occur due to the temperature difference that occurs in winter. During the day, the sun burns and greatly heats the bark, but at night it is affected by hard frost. Cracks can also occur in summer under the influence of the same sun, as well as strong wind and night chills. Plant pests also participate in the formation of cracks.

In order to avoid such injury to trees, they should be provided with proper care autumn. The trunks are covered with whitewash and a special protective fiber. It can even be a rag, as long as the trunk is well protected from direct sunlight.

Also protect tree trunks from insects and rodents. This can be done with the help of special preparations, as well as a protective net that is put on the trunk of the plant and is guaranteed to prevent damage by rodents.

Autumn top dressing with fertilizers

Feeding plants with fertilizers is an important step that should not be forgotten. It must be carried out after the harvest, which draws a huge amount of juice and strength from the plant. Timely and proper feeding will increase immunity, and hence the winter hardiness of trees.

In some of our articles, we have already described the various processes of plant nutrition, there is also material about the enrichment of the earth with nutrients in the autumn period. But we will repeat, very briefly.

Do not apply nitrogen fertilizers in warm weather, they can only harm. Also try not to fertilize the soil superficially, during this period, fertilizers may simply remain on the surface and not bring much result. Try to dilute the fertilizer with water and water it.

Be sure to include biofertilizers. It can be global, by scattering over the surface of the earth and digging it up, but it can also be local, more effective. To do this, it is necessary to make several special wells at the borders of the crown of the tree and fertilize them.

Wells can be made with a garden drill. The production technology is quite simple. You remove a layer of soddy soil with a shovel, drill a well about half a meter with a garden drill, apply fertilizer inside and be sure to cover it with a previously removed layer of earth.

You can also fertilize tree trunks with manure or compost. After laying the fertilizer, it should be covered with a layer of any mulch, even mowed grass.

How and with what to fertilize fruit trees (video)

Autumn fruit tree care calendar

Experienced gardeners use the advice of even more experienced ones, as well as their own observations. They also often pay attention to special calendars, with the help of which their work can be efficiently systematized and scheduled for convenient terms. So, before us is a short gardener's calendar for the fall:

• September. In the first month of autumn, which is often still not very different from summer, it is required to remove the fishing belts from the trees. Many of them are simply burned, but some, more economical gardeners, boil them, treat them with special pesticides and save them for the next year. This can bring you some cost savings. It is also necessary to remove from the garden all remaining on the ground and spoiled fruits. They can be taken to a landfill or used for household needs. It is also worth taking out of the garden props and special pads from the forks, which prevented various damage to tree branches. They can also be burned to destroy pests, namely codling moth caterpillars, which often gather in them;
• October. In October, a thorough check of plantings for the presence of pest infestation should be carried out. To do this, special accounting inspections of trees are carried out diagonally or quarterly. At the same time, pruning and removal of shoots, tops and branches damaged by pests are carried out. The next step is to tie the trunks with reeds, sunflower stalks or just special protective nets from hares and other rodents;
• November. Collect fallen and cut branches and leaves in one large pile and burn. A lot of pests will die in the fire, which simply could overwinter in a pile and leaves and settle again in the spring on fruit trees. You should also dig up the soil around the trees. It’s not worth going deeper near the trunk, it’s not worth more than 10 cm, you can damage the roots, but after a meter and a half you can already work in full bayonet. When digging, apply fertilizers - superphosphate - 100 g under a tree, potash and nitrogen (optional) - 50 g under a tree and, of course, organic fertilizers, 300-400 kg per hundred square meters. Re-examine the trees, remove possible pest nests in them and burn them, remove dead bark from the trunks. Prepare young trees for cold weather, insulate, support and protect from snow breakers.

Proper and high-quality garden care will help not only save trees from winter cold and winds, as well as other misfortunes in the form of snow breakers and pests, but also prepare them for the next year, in which you will definitely find huge harvest juicy and fresh fruits.

Caring for fruit trees in October (video)

Reviews and comments

(8 ratings, average: 3,25 out of 5)

Valery 24.09.2012

When wrapped with rags, dampening is ensured, especially for stone fruit crops.

Vasily 10.03.2017

Preparing for winter is of course an important stage. Our task is to keep the trees intact until spring and remove as many pests and possible hiding places from the site in winter. I would like to ask you - how do you feel about the autumn watering of the site? I mean not small, but large - in order to charge the earth with moisture. Should a summer resident do this, especially in the southern regions?

Mari28 11.03.2017

Valery, you are not quite right. Depends on where you live. In the middle and northern strip of Russia, winding is indispensable.

Mari28 11.03.2017

Disputes whether to conduct water-filled irrigation do not subside and intensify closer to each autumn. It is believed that moist soil acquires properties for greater thermal conductivity. This allows the heat from the lower horizons to warm the roots of plants. I also live in the southern zone and against such watering. I think it does more harm than good. And all because water-charging irrigation requires professionalism, it is difficult to understand when to stop. After all, if the soil is waterlogged, then the water will force the air out of its pores, which will lead to the death of the roots of the trees. This method is more likely for agronomists with more experience. In addition, winters last years frosty with plenty of snow. Whether to use this method is up to you!

Selima 29.08.2017

What fertilizer is needed in the fall so that the soil does not fall in the spring

Mari28 30.08.2017

As I understand it, you wanted to write ... the buds did not fall off. In the fall, phosphorus and potash (superphosphate, potassium magnesia) fertilizers are applied. Nitrogen fertilizers should be avoided, as the tree has enough summer supply. The lack of top dressing affects the immunity of the tree, which leads to fungal diseases. In autumn, spraying with Bordeaux liquid should be carried out, so you will heal the plant. However, these are not the main causes of kidney failure. Their growth is affected by weather conditions, perhaps you are growing a non-zoned variety. To help the tree, you can spray it with the "Ovary" preparation in the spring. It increases the resistance of the kidneys to cold temperatures, and also stimulates their growth.

Mari28 30.08.2017

What can I say… not a bad way. Costly truth. Usually gardeners use improvised material. But, if you can afford it, then why not.

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Fruit trees in the garden, in order to get high yields, careful young garden care. The main attention should be paid to the cultivation and watering of the soil in the garden.

Tillage in the garden

Tillage in the garden consists in annual digging in autumn and regular loosening (hoeing) during spring and summer. The garden must be kept clean at all times and the ground loose. From the beginning of fruit harvesting until the leaves fall, loosening of the soil in the garden is not carried out.

Autumn digging of the soil begins after the leaves fall. They dig to a depth of up to 20 cm. When working, the shovel should be placed with an edge to. This allows less damage to tree roots. When digging near the trunk circle, the depth of digging decreases to 12-15 cm, and near the stem - up to 8-10 cm.

In spring, it is very useful, especially in arid steppe regions, is soil mulching in the garden. It is produced by covering the trunk circles with straw, sexual, straw manure with a layer of 3-5 cm. Mulching contributes to the preservation of moisture and the accumulation of nutrients, prevents the development of weeds, reduces soil temperature in summer. The cover is removed at the end of summer. After the autumn digging, it resumes.

In the steppe regions, in non-irrigated gardens, the aisles should be kept under black fallow, not occupying them with vegetables, melons, and gourds. In the gardens of moist areas, row spacings can be occupied for planting other crops, but they must be well cared for.

Watering the soil in the garden

Young trees and shrubs, while they are growing wood, especially need watering the soil. During this period they the root system is still underdeveloped and it is not able to fully provide itself with water from the deeper lower soil horizons. In dry areas, gardens experience an acute shortage of water in June-July.

Method for determining the need for watering

The need for watering can be defined as follows: where the shadow of the tree crown ends, dig a hole 40-50 centimeters deep, take its earth from the bottom and squeeze it in your hand, if the earth does not crumble after unclenching your hand, you don’t need to water it, if it crumbles, you need watering.

For this you can use rain water or any water suitable for drinking. It is impossible to water fruit trees with saline water. Watering is carried out so that the soil is moist to the entire depth of the tree roots.

Autumn watering the garden

Of great importance are autumn charging watering when the leaves fall. In winter, snow should be retained in the gardens, thrown under the trees, and in spring, water should be retained during the melting of snow.

In areas where there is enough moisture, trees rarely need watering, and individual hobbyists often water them, causing significant harm. You should not water the garden before the crop ripens, as in this case fruit rot develops on the fruits, and they burst and rot. Watering in September-October, before the leaves fall, promotes enhanced growth. Trees, especially annuals, do not mature and die by the onset of winter.

young garden care

Soil care on tree trunks. To provide trees with water and nutrition, the soil of the near-trunk strips 1.5–2.5 m wide is kept under black fallow, the aisles are occupied by sowing row crops, vegetable crops and green manure. The soil of tree trunks is kept moist by watering and mulching with peat, peat compost, humus and other organic materials. Spread the mulch in early spring when there is some moisture in the soil. Mulch is placed on the trunk circles with a layer of 6–8 cm, spending on 1 m 2 20–25 kg of peat or peat compost. On the 2nd-3rd year after planting, watering is carried out at the rate of 30-50 liters of water per plant.

Garden cultivators and disc harrows are used to till the soil near the trunks. In order not to damage the trees during processing, the implements should not approach the trunks closer than 40 cm. In autumn, the soil near the trunks is loosened to a depth of 12 cm. In the spring, harrowing is carried out and then cultivation is carried out to a depth of 8–10 cm. heavy rains to preserve moisture, the soil is loosened to a depth of 6–8 cm (in total, 3–4 loosening is done over the summer). The part of the near-trunk strip not treated with tools is loosened manually: in the fall - by digging a shovel for half a bayonet, in the spring and summer - by hoeing with weeding. When mulching, trunk circles do not need repeated loosening, only a shelf of large weeds is required.

To accumulate moisture under the trees and protect the bark of boles from damage by mice, it is useful to trample down snow in tree trunks 3-4 times a winter during thaws.

Organic and mineral fertilizers are applied to the soil near the tree trunks. For these purposes, weathered peat, composts from peat with feces of peat with slurry, greenhouse humus and semi-rotted manure are used.

Mineral fertilizers are applied together with organic fertilizers in the form of organo-mineral composts or mixtures. To prepare mixtures, a layer of organic fertilizers 12–15 cm thick is laid, superphosphate and potassium chloride are poured on it; so stack 4-5 layers. Then mix and leave this mass for several days to soak organic matter formed solution of mineral fertilizers.

Organic fertilizers are applied once every 2-3 years when tilling the soil under plowing. The first time they fertilize in the 3rd year after laying the garden. Until that time, young trees are provided with phosphorus and potassium through fertilizers applied to planting pits. 1 m 2 near-stem circle (strip) make 3-5 kg ​​of compost, humus or semi-rotted manure, 100 g of superphosphate and 20-30 g of potassium chloride.

Nitrogen mineral fertilizers are given annually in the spring at the rate of 20–30 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 m 2 . In dry form, nitrogen fertilizer is sown on the surface of the soil and covered with loosening.

When applying liquid top dressing, the solution is poured into the furrows along the periphery of the circle or along the near-stem strip. The concentration of the solution should be low - 2-3 g per 1 liter of water. For liquid top dressing, in addition to saltpeter, a solution of slurry and bird droppings is used.

Slurry is diluted with water 3-4 times, bird droppings - 10 times (dry - 20 times). The norm of a solution of saltpeter and organic fertilizers is one bucket per 3-4 m furrow. In dry weather, the soil in the furrows should first be watered with clean water.

Soil care between rows. In the 1st year after planting, the aisles are kept under black fallow. On the 2nd and subsequent years, the aisles are used for growing green manure, vegetable and row crops.

For the cultivation of green manure, the soil between the rows in the first half of the season is kept under black fallow, at the end of June and the first half of July, after the next rain, disking and sowing of green manure is carried out. As green manure, mustard, buckwheat, phacelia, lupine, and pelushka are used. Crops of mustard, buckwheat, phacelia give from 20 to 30 tons of green mass per 1 ha, but they are valuable as honey plants. Seeding rates per 1 ha for row sowing: mustard - 20 kg, buckwheat - 100 kg, phacelia - 15 kg, lupine - 180 kg, pelushki - 150 kg.

Incorporation into the soil of the green mass of green manure is carried out in the fall when the soil of the garden is cultivated for fall. When keeping a trunk strip 2–3 m wide under black fallow, green manure and other crops do not inhibit the growth of trees in a young garden, and therefore they can be sown in all row-spacings. In the 9th-11th year after the laying of the garden, when the roots of the trees use the entire area between the rows, green manure continues to be used according to the system adopted for the fruit-bearing garden. To obtain a sufficiently high yield of green mass and increase soil fertility, it is necessary to apply mineral fertilizers: 3 kg of superphosphate, 2 kg of potassium chloride, 2 kg of nitrogen fertilizers per hundred square meters.

In young backyard or collective gardens, aisles can be used for potatoes, vegetables (except for late varieties of cabbage, which delays autumn tillage).

Trunk circles are kept in a loose, weed-free state or mulched. You should not cultivate crops for grain in the aisles of the garden, as they dry out the soil very much and inhibit the growth of pear trees. Fertilizer rates for growing vegetable crops per 1 m 2 7 kg of compost or humus, manure, peat, 60 g of superphosphate, 30 g of potassium chloride or 100 g of wood ash, 40 g of ammonium nitrate. To improve the physical properties of the soil in the 3rd year after planting, the aisle of the garden can be occupied with perennial grasses (no more than 2 years).

In a young garden, it is necessary to carry out work on snow retention and reduce runoff melt water by moving the snow to the rows of trees using a tractor with a heavy square attached to it. The snow in the shafts melts more slowly, the thawed patches formed in the aisles hold water well.

Soil cultivation in the aisles of a young garden consists of plowing under the fall (in home gardens - digging) and 5 cultivation in the spring and summer.

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