How to increase soil fertility, improve its composition, structure - these are the most important issues that summer residents have to solve.
The soil is called fertile if it contains the necessary amount of nutrients for plants. If the yield of the beds is gradually decreasing, and the planted plants often get sick or do not look quite right, the reason is most likely a decrease in soil fertility. What can be done?
Method number 1: give the earth a rest
You can give the opportunity to various plots of land just to rest. This means that cultivated plants will not be planted there for a whole year. But the weeds, which will immediately grow, must be removed in a timely manner, without giving them the opportunity to grow and produce seeds. By winter, you should dig up the ground in a rested area, turning over upper layer down.
Method number 2: dig up the weeds
Most cheap way improving the fertility of the land is to mow weeds that have not yet formed seeds from the surface of an unsown bed. If the weeds have become tall, they must be crushed and scattered over the surface of the bed (the layer can reach 10-15 cm), and then they are dug up to a depth of 20-25 cm. Under the soil layer, the weeds will rot and provide the soil with many important nutrients. The soil structure will also improve.
Method number 3: Sow the beds with winter rye
It is possible in the fall, having removed the entire crop and dug the ground shallowly, sow the beds with winter rye. In the spring, overwintered rye should be dug deep along with the weeds that will be there by this time. And after two weeks you can already sow.
Method number 4: plant lupine
An excellent tool for enriching the earth is lupine. It has a developed root system that contributes to the loosening of the earth. As a plant of the legume family, lupine enriches the earth with nitrogen. Usually it is sown somewhere at the end of April, the ground has barely thawed. Lupine grows quickly, and as soon as the peduncle appears, the bed is urgently dug deep, crushing the lupine with a shovel. Then the lupine should be re-sown. He will have time to grow before the cold weather, the buds will appear again. They dig it up again (or you can leave it to winter). After three times, the fertility of the soil will increase greatly.
Method number 5: we plant peas, mustard and other herbs
Peas are also used to improve fertility. Moreover, in this case, the gardener has the opportunity to harvest, but it is important not to miss here: you need to dig up the tops while the plants are still green, they have not begun to fade, they have not withered. Next, it is recommended to sow mustard, which will die after the first frost. She is immediately dug up.
Here are the herbs that can be planted with further digging: vetch, lupine, beans, alfalfa, rapeseed, sweet clover, clover, buckwheat. These plants improve the soil and suppress weeds.
Method number 6: collect autumn leaves
Every autumn, nature gives us a huge amount of leaves. But it is also an excellent source of improving soil fertility. The leaves are collected. If there are not enough of them, they bring them from the forest. Put in a pile, sprinkled with earth. The leaves will rot, rot, fungal spores and larvae die from high temperatures. By spring, fertilizer is ready, which can be applied to the soil.
If you don't want to pile up, lay directly on the beds (15 cm high). In this case, be sure to pour a strong solution of potassium permanganate and dig.
Method number 7: we plant medicinal plants
Sometimes the soil, like us humans, needs medicine to repair itself. In these cases, medicinal plants are planted: calendula, marigolds, garlic, etc.
Method number 8: we populate Californian worms
A very effective, but not yet popular enough remedy is the use of Californian worms, which, unlike ordinary ones, are very prolific and live long.
Method number 9: use fertilizers
And, of course, they improve productivity very well. land plot organic fertilizers. But we must remember that this is not fresh manure, which is very aggressive, as it destroys plants by burning them. Only after overheating, manure turns into organic fertilizer. Significantly more time will be needed for the overheating of bird droppings and pig manure. But cow and horse manure overheats faster.
Summer residents with small plots often face the problem of soil depletion. Indeed, from year to year they are forced to plant the same crops in the old place, since small plot difficult to keep crop rotation. Special problems in growing potatoes. In this case, even new seeds do not give a good and healthy harvest. Is it possible to somehow improve the tired, exhausted and infected with various diseases land?
Of course you can - and you should! - says agronomist Ivan Babin. - But it is necessary to approach the solution of this problem comprehensively. First, you need to change the infected seeds - buy new ones. And secondly, to improve and enrich the soil with food. To do this, now, in the spring, divide the site into two halves. As soon as the soil dries up, plant new potato seeds on one. And sow the second with mustard - at the rate of 0.5 - 1 kilogram per hundred square meters. This is one of the best green manure (plants used as organic fertilizers) today.
Sow the seeds sown with a rake into the soil. Seedlings will appear soon. When they reach 25 - 30 centimeters in height, they need to be crushed with a lawn mower or a rectangular bayonet shovel and left in place. Then dilute 100 g of the Vostok EM-1 preparation in a bucket of water and sprinkle a plot of 1 weave with this solution. Live effective microorganisms will help to quickly process the green mass into useful humus.
Then you sow mustard seeds again, as for the first time, - says Ivan Babin. - You can also sow oats and peas or oats and vetch, 2 kg of the mixture per hundred square meters. After that, with a walk-behind tractor (milling cutter or body with a blade), plant the seeds and chopped green mass 5-10 centimeters into the soil. The same can be done with a bayonet shovel, slightly sticking it into the ground and turning the layers over to mix the layers. Microorganisms of the drug "Vostok EM-1" are taken to work: they process the green mass and contribute to the reproduction of useful earthworms.
After rain or watering (this is real in a small area), the seeds will begin to sprout. After a month and a half, the grown seedlings need to be crushed again and repeat with them everything that was done for the first time. If during the summer you manage to sow and process green manure three or four times, then by autumn your land will turn into fluff: it will become loose, light and fertile. Scientists have proved that the green mass embedded in square meter soil, processed by living microorganisms and worms, is equivalent to fertilizing the same area with a bucket of humus.
Calculate for yourself: one hundred buckets of humus are needed for a hundred square meters of a garden plot, and two hundred for two! And this is half a KamAZ of humus. It is very expensive and difficult,” says Babin. - And in this case, you will manage with a few kilograms of seeds and work a little on fresh air. In addition, potatoes will grow well in a fertilized area. After all, the roots of mustard secrete substances that repel the potato pest, the wireworm. New beetles do not lay eggs, and existing larvae try to leave the site.
On the next year on the rested half of the garden, boldly plant new potato seeds, and on the second - carry out the same treatment. From an updated half plot, you will get a crop of two to three times more than from a whole, but depleted. This is perhaps the only way effectively improve the soil in a small area.
And one more important note: if possible, try to observe crop rotation on the site - change crops in places. This will avoid the spread of diseases and pests, Ivan Babin advises.
Endless fight against weeds suburban area and in the garden is known to everyone. Weeds take root well and grow in any conditions. They can be found on the most unsuitable soils for life, on cultivated flower beds and vegetable gardens, and even dense asphalt is not a barrier to them. Getting rid of these unpleasant neighbors once and for all is the dream of every summer resident. So how do you do it?
One of effective ways Weed control is the cultivation of crops that suppress the vital activity of weeds and prevent their spread. So how to plant a garden so that there are no weeds?
Weed control methods
Weeds can be controlled by preventive methods, the main task of which is to prevent weeds from entering the site and preventing their spread. These methods are aimed at identifying and destroying the weed, as well as at preventive measures to fight him.
Destructive methods are aimed at the destruction of weeds:
- Mechanically.
- With the help of chemicals.
- Through biological intervention.
One of the most accessible methods for combating the intensive growth of weeds is early mowing of weeds before they bloom. This prevents the formation of seeds. Weed vegetation spreads over the site at the same time much more slowly.
The control method by sowing dominant grasses is aimed at suppressing the development of weeds and improving the general condition of the soil. Such herbs are called green manure. These plants are obligatory participants in the crop rotation of any land plot.
siderates
Green manure is a green manure and after a short period of growth, they are cut to fill compost pits and mulch the soil. Before sowing a plot from weeds with one or another grass, it is necessary to remember their main tasks:
- oppression of weeds and an obstacle to its spread throughout the summer cottage;
- reduction of increased soil acidity;
- loosening the soil structure and enriching it with oxygen;
- normalization of metabolic processes;
- prevention of infections and diseases.
They can be sown almost the entire season. However, they are not suitable as precursors for related plants. When using green manure, additional application of mineral fertilizers to the soil is not required. So what grass to sow so that weeds do not grow?
As a green fertilizer, any annual plant with a strong root system is suitable. Their branched structure is able to easily break through compacted soil, making it looser and more fertile. Before planting the main plants, green manure is plowed into the ground. The dry upper part is not beveled or removed.
Mulching with green manure
Siderates do not have to be plowed into the soil. Spread out in a small layer on the beds, they are suitable as mulch. Mulching the soil with green manure has many advantages:
Types of green manure
Before sowing the land from weeds, it must be remembered that the most common siderates are of legume origin. These are very unpretentious plants to growing conditions. They sprout even at the lowest temperatures and easily tolerate frosts. These include beans, lentils, alfalfa, peas, clover and many others.
How to sow a garden from weeds in the spring to get rid of them for a long time? Spring planting of legumes saturates the soil with nitrogen. They are suitable for both weed control and for improving the structure. clay soils and wetlands. Legumes have well-developed roots and form a kind of drainage in the ground. Often used for acidic soils and allow to normalize their acidity level. Therefore, before planting a weed plot, it is necessary to take into account not only the features of the land plot, but also their recommended followers.
White mustard is great for fighting bindweed, pea stalk and slugs. Effectively used for the prevention of late blight. It is a good predecessor of onions and can significantly increase its yield. Rape does not tolerate acidic soils. It is an excellent baking powder and enriches the soil with sulfur and phosphorus.
Oilseed radish is not afraid of frost and easily tolerates a long drought. Excellent for intensive control of couch grass breeding. Rye is used as a winter crop. It is mowed for green mass at the end of May. Great for wetlands. Effectively used to combat wireworm.
Oats saturate the soil with potassium and are an excellent orderly against root rot. Sweet clover saturates the soil with nitrogen and phosphorus. It is an excellent helper for the fight against wireworm. Helps to avoid root rot of plants. Excellent as a trailblazer for uncultivated soils.
Sainfoin is suitable for all types of soil. It is better to sow it in areas left under fallow. Can be a source of green manure for several years. Peas perfectly suppress weeds not only with their powerful root system, but also with dense green mass. Excellent for growing on swampy soils and contributes to their drying.
Buckwheat saturates the soil with potassium and phosphorus. It copes well with wheatgrass and other weeds. Suitable for all types of soil and easily tolerates drought. Not recommended as a precursor for sorrel and spinach.
Calendula effectively improves soil properties and is an excellent predecessor for tomatoes, eggplants and potatoes. Protects them from late blight. It is an effective tool in the fight against wireworms, caterpillars and mites.
All-purpose weed control
Every gardener thinks about how to sow a plot so that weeds do not grow. An excellent remedy for the spread of weeds is the sowing of a mixture of herbs. The composition of this mixture in equal proportions includes oil radish, white mustard and rapeseed. Of course, these plants can be used singly, but joint sowing gives a nuclear reaction - it perfectly increases soil fertility and destroys weeds in the bud.
The entire land plot is sown with a mixture of these herbs at the rate of 200 g of seeds per one hundred square meters. If in the future it is planned to mow the green mass for animal feed, it is possible to sow the territory much more densely. Sowing is done at any time. Both early spring and warm late autumn are perfect for this. At spring planting siderates are allowed to grow, and a few weeks before planting cultivated plants they are plowed into the soil. Autumn green manure leave before winter and plow the entire territory in the spring.
This triple mixture, when it enters the soil, perfectly deoxidizes it and acts similarly to lime. The root system of plants goes deep into the soil, when decomposed, it releases oppressive substances and suppresses the development of weeds.
When sowing, the seeds are scattered over the entire area and deepened with a harrow. If the area is small, you can use a regular metal rake instead of a harrow.
To obtain an excellent green fertilizer, these crops are mowed, the grass is crushed, and the entire land plot is well plowed. Depending on the region, you can thus get two or three mowings per season, perfectly fertilize the soil and prepare it for further use.
You can watch the video about common mistakes when sowing green manure:
Siderates for potatoes
Potatoes are usually grown in very large quantities. Every year it is not always possible to change the landing site in the conditions of a limited land plot. So how to sow a garden from weeds and how to prevent their massive spread? Experienced gardeners plant rye or winter vetch in early September.
Also an excellent predecessor for increasing potato yields are oats, peas and white mustard. Do not use representatives of the nightshade family as a green fertilizer. Mustard sown before potatoes can significantly increase its yield and help get rid of wireworms.
Conclusion
How and when to sow your garden so that weeds do not grow, everyone decides on their own. However, whatever green manure is used in a summer cottage, it will greatly increase productivity, eliminate the use of mineral fertilizers, improve soil structure and help in weed control.
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What's better?
Tell me, please, how best to leave the land to rest: under fallows or under green manure?
Victoria
traditional method give the earth a rest - leave it "fallow", that is, plow and do not plant anything. In our gardens, we also remove all weeds and plant debris. But this is not very correct, because in natural conditions the earth never remains bare. Better between plantings horticultural crops sow the land with green manure. Both special plants and well-known annuals can act in their role. Winter rye and rapeseed give very good results: a large number of green mass. In the spring, it will be necessary to cut the roots at a depth of 5 cm with a flat cutter or other tool. Cut plants do not need to be removed, they will act as mulch.
Mineral or organic?
Tell me, what fertilizers are better to apply to the soil, mineral or organic?
Zinaida P.
Better than the organics did not come up with anything. Of course, if you are just starting to develop your site, during the initial deep digging, make the necessary mineral supplements. If you use the "no-till" method, synthetics are not needed. But be sure to follow the rules for applying organic fertilizers to the soil. Firstly, only rotted manure is brought in. Fresh should be folded somewhere on the edge of a pile 1 m high. With free access to oxygen and the presence of moisture, it will quickly “burn out”, compost. Then it is desirable to mix it with wood ash - it is much more effective than just pouring it into the ground. And already in this form, they are brought directly into the holes when planting vegetables (cucumbers, cabbage, zucchini, etc.) and potatoes, or, if there is a lot of it, the beds are mulched and bypass rings are poured around berry bushes and fruit trees.
special place
Previously, they burned garbage in the garden, where necessary. But then they noticed that in these places the plants developed poorly and the harvest was useless. For several years, the earth hurt even after “one-time” burns. Now we burn garbage only in a strictly designated place. And when the grandson built a “hearth” of two tiers of cinder blocks around the fire, it became completely convenient: the garbage burns faster, as there is traction, and does not scatter in the wind, as it is covered with brick walls. And in the evenings you can sit by the fire.
A. Artemiev
If the site is new
Bought this year garden plot with small house. Tell me how to dig it up correctly if it has stood abandoned for 20 years?
Maria M.
It is better to develop a new site gradually, use it for planting in a year. In the first half of summer, the turf should be dug shallowly (6-8 cm), and in late August - early September, dig deep (20 cm), burying the turf. On light soils, it is buried to a depth of 20 cm, on heavy soils - no deeper than 10 cm. Large clods of earth should not be broken, but fertilizers, depending on the type of soil (alkaline, acid), should be applied now. This work must be done before the rains. In the spring, all the clods remaining from the fall should be broken up; light soils can not be dug up. But heavy clay and loamy will have to be dug up again.
To dig or not to dig?
Recently, more and more often I hear talk that it is harmful to dig up the earth and this method should be abandoned. Is it true?
A.S. Sinkin
Indeed, this is so, many refuse to dig the earth, especially in the spring. But this is not always justified. Think for yourself: will something grow in you if your site is entirely on the border of a swamp and a forest? Much depends on the soil and on the characteristics of your site. Therefore, digging and the formation of ridges must be carried out, taking into account these features. In low-lying damp areas, enough high beds so that they are better ventilated and warmed up in the spring. On dry, light soils, high beds will dry out quickly, and the plants will not have enough moisture. It is appropriate to apply a smooth landing there, and it is better to apply compost and humus from the fall. Light soil can not be dug up, but deep loosening can be applied. The same method is used on sandy and sandy soils to prevent rapid drying in the spring. It is enough just to collect weeds, loosen with a pitchfork, and mulch the ground with rotted grass or other organic matter.
What seeds - such a crop
I have long been convinced that you need to choose potatoes for planting in the fall, during harvesting. Of course, this significantly delays the digging process. But on the other hand, it is guaranteed to increase the quality of seed material and, accordingly, the future harvest. After all, you don’t see when you select potatoes from a common pile or from a bin for seeds, from which bush this tuber is. If from a fruitful one - good, but if not? So quickly you can bring the potato to degeneration, the harvest will fall, and the quality of the potato itself will deteriorate. Therefore, arm yourself with patience: either select a special person, or take a second bucket to put the seed material into it. After all, the yield depends on the quality of the seeds.
Peter D.
collect all
Neighbors remove all potatoes from the field, even the smallest ones, although they do not keep any cattle. I don't understand why this is needed?
Antonina S.
All tubers, including old, small and damaged ones, should be removed from the field so that the main potato pests - wireworm and Colorado potato beetle - do not have food. Potato tops are also best removed from the field, as they can cause some diseases and contain solanine. It is desirable to harrow the earth and sow green manure.
Sow green manure
The plot for the garden went from a friend, in addition to his own, about 4 acres. Difficult to care for. It is advised to plant half of the site, and sow half with green manure. Change next year. But green manure grows quickly. In June, they should already be dug up. Or mow. What's next? The whole summer is still ahead. Sow green manure again? Please advise how to do it right?Daria In this case, green manure serves as a top dressing, as an improvement and loosening of the soil. When green manure grows, they need to be mowed, left right on the bed for 2-3 days to dry, then dig and sow the bed with green manure again. And so three times a season. Next year, the earth on this bed will be loose and airy.
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