How to run wire under tile. Ways of electrical wiring in the apartment according to the standards

23.06.2020

When finishing work, when installation is in progress ceiling tiles, it is important to correctly hide the wiring. This will require the services of an electrician. Solving the issue of hiding electrical wiring can be done in several ways.

Method #1. If the selected tile is two or more millimeters thicker than the cable itself, a strobe should be created on the back of the coating. You need to cut a V-shaped groove. He will hide the wire in himself when the tile is being installed. In order for the wire to fit correctly into the groove, it must be pulled.

Method #2. In the place where the electrical wire is laid, you need to install a special plastic box. It's called a cable channel. Its thickness should correspond to the thickness of the tile. It must be fixed with dowels and screws. After that, the wiring fits into the box. Then it remains only to directly mount the tile.

Method #3. Here, as in the first case, strobes are made, but not in the tile, but in the ceiling itself. This procedure must be carried out before installation work. Such electrical work Chelyabinsk requires certain skills, since a puncher is used. When laying the corrugated hose in the strobe, it is necessary to turn off the power supply.

The depth of the strobe should be at least 20 millimeters, and the width should be at least 12 millimeters. At the bottom of the strobe, fasteners are mounted, consisting of dowels and self-tapping screws with wire, which will press the electrical wiring to the ceiling.

Method #4. This is not the most convenient and aesthetic method. The wires are laid between the ceiling plates: either in the place where the plates are joined to each other, or in the grooves that are cut out on the front surfaces. To make the wiring not conspicuous, the docking points can be painted in the color of the ceiling. In addition, if the electrical cable is rigid enough, if it is laid only at the joints, it will not be particularly noticeable anyway.

Features of laying tiles

Installation on a warm floor tile requires knowledge of some points:

The height of the finish coat must match the floor level of the rest of the rooms. Similar calculations are performed at the stage of pouring the screed onto the warm floor.
Laying tiles on an electric or water heated floor requires compliance with the thickness of the tile adhesive. Ideally, the tile adhesive should be up to 10 mm thick. With a larger layer, thermal energy will not be dissipated over the entire area of the laid tile, but will be concentrated directly near the pipe or cable.
You need a special adhesive for tiles on a warm floor. It has to cope with sudden changes in temperature. On the packaging of the adhesive, the manufacturer must indicate information about the compatibility of the mixture with underfloor heating.
It is important to have a blueprint or photograph of the installed underfloor heating circuit. If you need to drill a hole in the field in the future, a photo will help you avoid making a mistake by breaking through the heating circuit.
The inclusion of heating when the tile adhesive dries is prohibited. The adhesive must dry at natural temperature. Masonry for water heating requires starting up and filling the system with pressurized coolant.
The heating circuit must be securely fixed to the floor. Pipes or cables must not extend from the base. The screed holds the pipes well, and the wires must be securely fixed.

These are the main nuances that are taken into account when laying tiles and making a warm floor with your own hands.

Tile laying instructions

A set of such tools is being prepared for work:

Level small and large.
Crosses to form the same seam.
Rule.
Three spatulas, notched, regular and rubber.
Yardstick.
A device for cutting tiles.
Chopping cord.
Drill or perforator.
Bucket for mixing tile adhesive.
Construction mixer for mixing glue.
Pencil.
Rag to remove adhesive from tiles.
Building corner.
Masking tape.
Tiled floor.
Brush for priming.

For laying tiles on a warm water floor, the following material is required:

Ceramic tile.
Special tile adhesive.
Grout.

All work consists of several successive stages:

Surface preparation.
Markup.
Primer.
Glue preparation.
Tile laying.
Seam grouting.

The technology of laying tiles on a warm floor is no different from laying on a regular floor. Let's consider each of these stages separately.

Surface preparation

Make sure that the installation work of the warm floor has come to an end. The system is working properly and has been tested/tested. The base for the tiles must be dry and even.

Putting tiles on the screed is much easier. To do this, try to fill it in level. In this case, the tile layer will be minimal. Any contamination and sagging of the solution is removed.

The cleaned and prepared screed is covered with a primer. The use of a deep penetration primer is recommended. After two hours, the surface is primed again for better adhesion of the tile adhesive.

Important! Don't forget to turn off the underfloor heating. Otherwise, the glue will dry out abruptly and it will not hold the tile..

markup

Before laying tiles on a warm floor, marking is performed. It is necessary to decide on what scheme to lay it. For example, there will be a lot of cuts along the diagonal. Can be laid apart so that the vertical seams do not match. With normal masonry, all seams, vertical and horizontal, will match.

Important! The choice of laying scheme does not affect the quality of floor heating. Focus on personal preference.

Having decided on the layout scheme, markings are applied to the floor. With a chopping cord with paint, beat off the line of the first row. This guide will help lay out the entire tile evenly. If there is a pattern, lay the coating on the floor dry. This will help you mark up correctly.

Glue preparation

After marking, tile adhesive is prepared. The kneading is done based on the manufacturer's recommendations. Pour water into a mixing container. Add a mixture of a given proportion to it.

If you do the opposite, then the glue will be taken in a lump that is difficult to break. The tile adhesive is mixed with a construction mixer. The finished consistency should resemble a creamy mass.

Check the quality of the glue: put the mixture on the spatula, it should not drain or fall when the spatula is tilted. The mixture should be held on the spatula.

note

After preparing the tile adhesive, allow it to rest for 15 minutes. After this time, re-mix the adhesive.

In the absence of practice, the speed of laying tiles will be small. Therefore, do not mix glue in large volume. Calculate the batch for 30 minutes of work. During this time, the glue will not dry out and a crust will not form on it.

Tile laying

The prepared adhesive is applied with a notched trowel onto the tile and base.
The resulting grooves will give better adhesion.
Apply glue to the floor immediately on 1 m2 with an even spatula in a thin layer.
The adhesive mass is applied to the tile with a notched trowel.
The edges and middle are well smeared.
Apply the tile to the floor according to the markup.
With little effort, press the tile to the floor.
Be sure to apply the level. The level measures the tile in all positions: horizontally, vertically and diagonally.
Lay a few more tiles nearby. Expose them strictly horizontally.
Between the tiles place crosses that form a uniform and identical seam.
When you press the tile, part of the glue will go into the seam. It must be removed immediately.
If the adhesive comes into contact with front side tiles, remove it with a damp cloth.

note

A gap of up to 20 mm is left between the wall and the cladding. It is needed as an expansion joint.

After laying the tiles and curing the glue, all the crosses are carefully removed. While the adhesive has not completely set, make sure that there are no residues of the mixture in the seams. Otherwise, the grout will not hold well.

When laying near walls, pipes and other elements, pruning is necessary. For cutting, a manual or automatic tile cutter is used. All cuts must be straight and without burrs.

Grouting

For grouting, a special mixture is used. For the floor, it is recommended to purchase a moisture-resistant grout. With the prepared mixture, evenly fill all the seams. Do not leave sagging on the front side of the cladding.

After drying, it will be difficult to wash it off. After 30 minutes, the surface is washed with a damp cloth and cold water. The floor must be free of stains and other contaminants.

On this, laying tiles on a warm floor can be considered complete. This coverage:

tolerates numerous cleaning cycles;
does not change color upon contact with chemicals;
complies with the hygiene rules established by the norms;
evenly distributes thermal energy underfloor heating throughout.

When the lining has dried, you can turn on the warm floor. The drying time of the adhesive mixture can be determined by the instructions on the bag from the manufacturer.

Conclusion

So, from this article it was possible to learn how the installation of tiles on a heating surface is carried out. With all the tips in this article, you should be able to do a great job.

We hope that you have received useful food for thought. Share your experience in the comments at the end of the article. Your experience will be useful for beginners.

Laying tiles on a warm floor - video

obplitke.ru

How to properly lay ceramic tiles on underfloor heating?

Underfloor heating is gaining more and more popularity. For its finishing coating use a laminate, parquet board or ceramic tile. Each material has its own advantages and disadvantages. For flooring in the bathroom, toilet, kitchen, hallway, ceramic tiles are often used. Proper laying of tiles on a warm floor is the key to its reliability and durability.

General view of the warm floor, lined with ceramic tiles

Types of tiled floor

First of all, you need to figure out what a warm floor is, what types of it are, how they are mounted. This information will help you post it correctly.

Underfloor heating is a multilayer system consisting of a heater, a heating element, a supporting cement-sand screed and a top coat.

There are two types of underfloor heating suitable for laying ceramic tiles:

electric;
water.

Electric

It is worth considering the features of installing an electric underfloor heating under ceramic tiles. It is a suitable system for ceramic veneering.

There are two types of heating:

Heating by cables. The base is examined first. If it is without obvious potholes, then a cable is laid on it. The base is leveled with a cement-sand screed. Then a layer of insulation 50-70 mm thick is laid. It has waterproofing. After that, heating elements are mounted, which are poured with a cement-sand screed or a ready-made mixture for a warm floor. Then ceramic granite is laid on a special adhesive for underfloor heating. Such a system "eats" up to 100 mm of room height.

Underfloor heating electric cable laid on a metal mesh

Mat heating. They need a flat surface to install. Any unevenness or sharp chipping can cause a violation of the insulation of the wires and subsequently the failure of the entire system. If there are cracks or potholes on the rough base, they are sealed. Then the mats are mounted, which are connected in single system. After that, their performance is checked. At the final stage, ceramic granite is laid on a special glue for underfloor heating. The thickness of such a base is only 40-50 mm, which is much less than that of a similar system with cable heating.

Infrared mats for tiles

This is a type of electric heating. The infrared floor consists of bimetallic or carbon plates sewn into a polyethylene film.

Installation of infrared mats on a warm floor

For a porcelain stoneware base, it is better to use carbon plate mats. Bimetallic - prone to corrosion.

First of all, the surface for laying mats is checked. All irregularities are sealed, or a leveling screed is poured. Then a layer of heat-reflecting material is laid. A fiberglass mesh with a mesh size of 30 × 30 mm is mounted on it.

Rolls of infrared floor 1000 mm wide are rolled onto the finished base. Then the whole system is connected to an electrical circuit. On the finished floor, ceramic granite is laid on a special glue.

The power cable must be directly under the tiles.

Water

He did not find application in apartments. Suitable for heating large areas in private houses and public buildings.

Installation example polypropylene pipes on prepared ground

First of all, the base is leveled. The screed is poured over the entire surface of the floor. Then a damper tape is laid, on which a layer of insulation 50-70 mm thick is mounted. The most commonly used thermal insulation material is mineral wool or styrofoam.

Pipes for hot water are mounted on the prepared base and connected to the general heating system. A cement-sand screed is poured from above. You can use a ready-made self-leveling floor. At the final stage, ceramic granite is laid. Water heating floor "eats" up to 150 mm of room height.

The optimal base for laying porcelain stoneware is an electrically heated floor. It is suitable for small living spaces, baths, toilets, hallways. The technology of tiling electric and water heated floors is the same.

Underfloor heating tiles

The rules for laying it on a warm floor do not differ from the rules for facing a conventional surface. The exception is the choice of tile adhesive. For a warm floor, there is a special adhesive with increased plasticity. It contains thermoregulating additives.

Materials and tools

Tile adhesive for underfloor heating;
Grout for seams;
Deep penetration soil or concrete contact;
Comb trowel, 100-150 mm;
Rubber spatula, 50-70 mm;
Crosses for seams;
Electric drill:
Rubber mallet;
Mixer nozzle;
Building level, 700-1000 mm;
Tile cutter or glass cutter;
Mastic;
Paint roller, 250 mm;
Protective rubber gloves and goggles;
Thin cord and chalk.

Material Quantity Calculation

First of all, the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is calculated. Then the number of boxes with tiles is determined. Each one has an area. A margin of 10% is added to the result obtained for trimming and fitting.

The amount of adhesive depends on the unevenness of the base and the thickness of the layer. Average values for consumption per square meter are given on the packaging. Soil norm 200-300 gr./m2.

Training

Before laying tiles, carry out preparatory work. Most often, the base of a warm floor under a tile is cement-sand screed. It is impregnated with deep penetration soil or concrete contact. Concrete heated floors are covered with plastic wrap or impregnated with bituminous mastic.

Application of a deep penetration primer on a cement-sand screed

The drying time of the soil is 2-3 hours. To improve adhesion, the floor can be treated 2 times.

Room layout

Drawing guide lines for laying tiles

There are two main ways to lay tiles on a warm floor: in rows or in a run. In the first case, all horizontal and vertical seams of the rows coincide. In the second - the warm floor is laid in a checkerboard pattern. The laying method does not affect performance.

The layout of the room starts from the longest wall. With the help of chalk and a thin lace, the first row is beaten off. From it the rest of the room is marked. This method is suitable for classic styling without additional patterns.

When it is necessary to lay ceramic granite with a pattern, then diagonals are beaten off. This is done with rope and chalk. The intersection point is the center of the room. The whole drawing is laid out from it.

If you plan to lay out a drawing or a diagonal, then first the entire tile is laid out “dry”. This is done to check the calculations and the actual layout.

Laying technology

Preparation of tile adhesive for underfloor heating. For its kneading, use a plastic or metal bucket. Glue is prepared in two stages. At the first, part of the water is poured, and the dry mixture is poured. The components are mixed using an electric drill with a grout nozzle. On the second - the rest of the water and the dry mixture are added to the bucket. Everything is thoroughly mixed. The finished consistency should be slightly thicker than sour cream.

Mixing tile adhesive in a plastic bucket with a drill

Pilot glue sets quickly. Therefore, a small volume is kneaded at a time - for 30-40 minutes of work.

The adhesive is applied either to the base or to the tile. When applied to the substrate, a regular and comb trowel is used. Normal - the mixture is leveled, comb - furrows are made for better adhesion to ceramic tiles. The size of the surface to be glued at one time should not exceed 1 m 2 . When applied to tiles, a trowel and a comb trowel are used. The glue is applied by the master to the back side of the ceramic tile. With a comb spatula, it is stretched over the entire surface.
Laying. In both cases, each element is applied to the base and slightly pressed with smooth wave-like movements. Then it is tapped with a rubber mallet. The action is repeated with the next element. Using the building level, the horizontalness of the surface is checked. If the tile sank or reared up, then it is removed, the defect is corrected. She then returns to her seat. To maintain an equal distance between the tiles, crosses are inserted into them: two on each side of the tile. A gap of 10-20 mm is left between the wall and the tile. It plays the role of a deformation seam. After the glue hardens, all crosses are removed.

The setting time of tile adhesive for underfloor heating is 24 hours. After 72 hours, the floor can be loaded with furniture.

Cutting and laying tiles. If possible, uneven and cut pieces are placed in corners or under furniture. To frame the areas around the pipes, use a template made of cardboard or paper. It is made for each element. The shape is then transferred to the tile and cut out. Finished pieces fit into place. Depending on the strength, ceramic granite is cut with a glass cutter, tile cutter or grinder with a circle for sawing ceramics. Bulgarian is used for cutting durable varieties floor covering, which are rarely laid at home. The tile cutter is used to cut large quantities of ceramic tiles. A glass cutter is needed for curly trimming small areas. However, many professional floor tile installers use a glass cutter as their primary tool.

Using a glass cutter to cut porcelain stoneware

Ceramic granite is cut only from a smooth face.

Seam processing

They are of two types:

Installation - between the tiles. Their width varies from 1.5 to 3 mm. Less than 1.5 mm is considered a seamless installation. The seams are sealed 24 hours after the installation of the flooring is completed. First of all, all the crosses are taken out. Then all seams with a rubber spatula close up with grout. The movement of the spatula is strictly along the seam.

Sealing joints between tiles with a rubber trowel

30-40 minutes after grouting, the seams are washed with cold water.

Perimeter - between the tile and the wall. These are expansion joints. They are sealed with silicone sealant or rubber gasket. Then they are closed with a plastic plinth.

This completes the laying of ceramic tiles. This is a durable and reliable coating that:

perfectly withstands hundreds of cleaning cycles;
does not change color when exposed to chemicals;
complies with all hygienic norms and rules;
evenly distributes heat throughout the room;
pleasing to the eye.

Video

Useful facts

In Soviet times, tiles were soaked in water before laying. Nowadays, many finishers " old school» continue to perform this action, although it is no longer necessary.
The problem with slippery tiles is solved by buying special composition. It is applied to the surface and protects it for a long time. A budget option for the bathroom - this is a regular rubber mat.
All modern floor tiles are manufactured industrially. There is one company in the world that produces and paints ceramic granite by hand. The cost per square meter of such coverage is inaccessible to an ordinary person. Therefore, we must remember that all the assurances of the sellers in the hardware store of the exclusivity of the collection are most likely a PR move.

heatplota.guru

Laying tiles on a warm floor (electric, water) with your own hands

Heated floors are one of the types of modern heating equipment used, depending on the region of residence, as the main or additional means of heating. residential buildings or apartments.

The so-called warm floors are divided into electric and water - according to the design of the heating circuit included in their design, mounted under the finishing of the base. V electrical systems the circuit is made of a self-heating cable or infrared film elements, and in water ones it is a hollow tube with a coolant circulating through it (water, antifreeze). Installation of contours of these types warm floors is carried out according to technologies that are tied to a wide range of factors - the characteristics of the base and the room, and therefore differ from each other, but after the installation is completed, the heating elements of any of these devices need a protective coating and finishing.

The task of this heating system is to heat the floor covering arranged over the contour and then maintain the temperature of its surface at a certain level so that the heat from the floor is transferred to the air of the room, and contact with the structure, previously always cold to the touch, becomes comfortable for residents. To ensure these functions, floor cladding must be made of materials with a sufficient degree of thermal conductivity, so the best option finishing Underfloor heating is ceramic flooring.

How to properly lay tiles on a warm floor, we will consider in more detail, taking into account the most common situations and factors.

The validity of the use of ceramics for facing underfloor heating

Most types of tiles are made from materials that are less dense than concrete. The difference in density causes different odds thermal expansion of the finished base and tiles, which is fraught with peeling of the cladding at the onset and end of the heating season - at the moments of temperature fluctuations caused by turning on or off the heating equipment. Accordingly, the concentrated heating of the floor structure by the underfloor heating system causes even more significant thermal expansion of these materials. Given these factors, the question of whether it is possible to lay ceramic tiles on a warm floor is quite natural.

The answer is unequivocal - yes, you can. And that's why:

For finishing underfloor heating, it is advisable to use high-density tiles (low porosity), the heat-insulating properties of which are therefore low - natural stone, porcelain stoneware, brooms, monocottura. In terms of density, these materials are close to concrete floor slabs, so the difference in their thermal expansion is insignificant.
The efficiency of space heating by the underfloor heating system is achieved due to the large heat transfer area, so the temperature of the heating elements used in them is low. Accordingly, the values of thermal expansions of materials in contact with each other are insignificant and, importantly, there is no danger of burns.
The elasticity of modern tile adhesives, grouts allows them to maintain solidity with significant deformations of the glued surfaces and thus prevent the tiled cladding from peeling off the base.

Thus, laying tiles on a warm electric floor or a base with water heating is a completely reasonable and justified decision.

Installation of ceramics on a warm floor

The technology for laying tiles on a warm floor is selected depending on how the heating elements were installed - “wet” or “dry”.

With the “wet” method, a cement-sand mortar screed is made over the heating circuit, water or electric. The question of how to lay tiles on a warm floor, in this case, is solved in the same way as facing a floor surface without heating.

There are several "dry" methods for installing underfloor heating. Here are the most common ones:

Special mats with grooves for the heating circuit are laid on the supporting base. After installation in the grooves of pipes or cables, GWP (gypsum fiber board), DSP (cement-bonded particle board) or multilayer plywood with hydrophobic impregnation is laid on top of the mats, on which ceramics are placed.
On top of the heating circuit, a layer of loose filler of fine fraction with good thermal conductivity (slag) is arranged, which is also covered with GWP or DSP.
Grooves are cut out in wooden floorboards with the help of a milling cutter to accommodate a heating circuit in them, after installation of which it is also necessary to lay pressed structure slabs on the floor.

In the listed “dry” methods of installing underfloor heating, the material for arranging the heating circuits is different, but in all three cases, the base to be tiled is not concrete, but organic material, which is tiled using special technologies.

It does not matter whether the “wet” method was used for laying heating elements or the “dry” method - laying tiles on a warm water floor is carried out in the same way as on a base with electric heating.

Underfloor heating tiles under cement screed

The main point in preparing for this work is the choice of material - ceramics and adhesives.

Natural stone, porcelain stoneware, monocottura are facing materials of high density and hardness that meet all the requirements for underfloor heating. But ceramic tiles should also not have geometry defects. Any deviation of the sheets from the configuration and dimensions declared by the manufacturer will lead to visual defects in the finish - protruding or recessed corners of ceramics, a difference in the width of the seams.

When choosing between seam or seamless laying of ceramics, it is better to focus on the first option - the grouting material of the joints will partially take over the thermal expansion of each cladding element, and the total increase in the size of the decorative shell with this method of finishing will be less than with seamless installation.

Laying and grouting compounds for ceramics on heated floors must have sufficient elasticity, good thermal conductivity and high adhesion to the materials to be glued.

"Ceresit" (CM-14 EXTRA, CM-16, CM-17) - for tiles made of porcelain stoneware, monocottura, broom.
"Ceresit CM-115" - for facing made of natural stone (marble, limestone).
Bergauf Keramic Express - for large-format ceramics (up to 1 m2).
Knauf Flex - for finishing ceramic and granite tiles in rooms with high humidity.

Adhesives from manufacturers Knauf, Prospectors, Unis, Litokol are in no less demand. The choice of the required material is not difficult - the characteristics, scope and consumption of each type of the listed adhesive mixtures are described in detail on the packaging.

Before laying ceramics, the evenness of the supporting screed is checked using a bubble level and an even rail 2 m long - over this length, the height difference should not exceed 5 mm. If irregularities are detected in excess of this value, the screed is leveled with a wide spatula; tile adhesive can be used for this purpose.

Having decided on the method of laying the tiles (straight, diagonal), it is better to make a preliminary marking of the location of the ceramics on the floor. This is done so that the trimmed elements, if any, are located symmetrically with respect to the chosen axes of symmetry of the room - diagonals or lines connecting the midpoints of opposite walls. In some cases, with artistic floor cladding, the installation of ceramics begins from the middle of the floor or its most open zone.

If the walls of the room are also tiled, then the tiles of the vertical surfaces should rest on the floor ceramics - such a joint forms a “lock” that ensures the impermeability of the interface to water.

Summing up the above, we note that all the rules used when laying ceramics on ordinary bases must also be followed when finishing heated floors. But, in addition to these rules, there are specific, obligatory nuances of laying tiles on a warm floor:

The system of warm floors within 28 days after laying the bearing screed should not be switched on in a mode in which the laid concrete warms up to a temperature above 28 0 С.
After the final curing of the concrete, it is necessary to warm up the floors by turning on the heating in the normal mode for 2-3 days.
Laying ceramic tiles on a warm floor must also be carried out at a screed surface temperature of 25-28 0 C.
Floor heating to a temperature above 28 0 С is not allowed for 12-14 days after the installation of ceramics on it is completed. During this time, complete curing and drying of the tile adhesive should occur, after which grouting is performed. The inclusion of a warm floor after laying the tiles in the heating mode of the room is performed with a dried grout composition.

Installation of ceramics on heated floors arranged in a "dry" way

Laying ceramic tiles in this case requires more complex and time-consuming preparation of the base.

The joints of the HWP, DSP or multilayer plywood, under which the heating circuit is mounted, are sealed with silicone. Along the perimeter of the room along the sheet flooring, a damper tape 5 cm wide is attached to the wall - it will take on the temperature expansion of the future cement screed.

A day later, after the silicone has cured, a reinforcing mesh is mounted to the sheet flooring. Reinforcement will allow the concrete layer to work better in bending and tension.

It is better to use a steel mesh, with a cell size from 20x20 to 50x50 mm and a wire thickness of 1.5-2.0 mm. The grid is attached to the slabs with self-tapping screws in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 150-200 mm. Then, a screed must be made on top of the grid - a cement-sand mortar is laid with a layer of 3-4 cm. After laying the concrete, the room is closed to avoid drafts, and, starting from the 4th day , the screed is moistened daily with water without flooding. In 4 weeks, the screed should completely harden and dry, acquiring a light gray color over the entire surface. Before laying ceramic tiles, the screed is primed with an aqueous solution of latex in a ratio of 1: 4 or one of the ready-made primers. The tile should be laid on tile adhesive, the layer of which, after tile correction, should be no more than 1 cm.

The base of GWP or CSP is inferior in strength characteristics to concrete, therefore, they should not be lined with heavy natural materials.

And, accordingly, vice versa - laying a mosaic on a warm floor, mounted under a sheet flooring, is a reasonable solution, since the specific weight of such a finish is small, the small size of the mosaic elements determines their strength, and the large area of \u200b\u200bthe joints compensates for a significant proportion of the thermal expansion of the cladding.

Conclusion

Laying tiles on a warm floor with your own hands is an operation, the complexity of which is not much higher than finishing a conventional floor base. Its main feature is right choice materials, which should not be afraid in the presence of detailed instructions on modern packaging.

zonaplitki.ru

Laying tiles on underfloor heating

To finish the floor, in which the heated floors are concreted, ceramic tiles are most often used. This material is an excellent solution, as it has a high level of thermal conductivity. So, the heat passing through it will practically not linger and be lost. However, before proceeding with the tiling of the floor, it is necessary to learn some details. In this article, we will tell you about how tiles are laid on a warm floor.

What you need to know

When laying tiles on the floor, it is important to understand that in the case of warm floors a special approach is needed. Moreover, the technology directly depends on the installation method. For example, when installing a water-heated floor, concreting is carried out. It is very easy to lay tiles on a flat screed. It is a completely different matter when it comes to electric heating. The screed is not always poured. So, you can immediately lay tiles on the laid heating mats. It turns out that the heating element will be located directly in the tile adhesive. In the first and second cases, it is quite possible to do all the work with your own hands.

Floor device features

So, if you decide to carry out the work yourself, then you need to take into account several important nuances, which will be described in this article. First of all, you need to remember that the height of the tile finish must be on the same level with all other rooms. Therefore, even at the stage of manufacturing a warm floor, you should make the appropriate measurements.

Advice! If the floor height of other rooms is initially much higher, then the heating cake may be thicker. For example, you can increase the layer on thermal insulation, but not only due to the screed. In this case, the heating efficiency will be reduced to zero.

If the screed is already ready, then when laying the tiles, the minimum layer of tile adhesive should be at least 10 mm. Otherwise, the generated heat will not be dissipated over the entire surface of the floor, and the floor heating will be in strips, only in those places where the heating cable or pipe is laid. Therefore, you should not strive to make the smallest possible layer of tile adhesive or floor screed. So, if you have already taken into account all these details, you can proceed directly to work. Next, we provide you with step-by-step instructions for all the work.

Tile laying instructions

First of all, you need to choose a special adhesive for combination with underfloor heating. The packaging of the adhesive must have a corresponding sign indicating the possibility of using the mixture with floor heating.

So, for work you will need the following set of tools and material:

Drill.
Construction mixer.
Rubber spatula.
Grout for seams.
Spatula with teeth.
Floor primer.
Special tile adhesive.
Crosses to form a uniform seam.
Rubber mallet.
Tile cutter for cutting tiles.
Roulette.
Pencil and marker.
Building level.
Container for mixing tile adhesive.

First of all, you need to correctly calculate required material. To do this, you need to know the floor area. Remember that you should not buy tiles and tile adhesive back to back. Be sure to make a small margin up to 10% of the amount received.

After that, the foundation is prepared. We will consider the option when the warm floor is already filled with a screed. Considering that in most cases the screed is made on the basis of a cement-sand composition, its surface must be impregnated with a primer. You can use a deep penetration primer, for example, concrete contact. It will also be useful to make waterproofing. In order not to create an additional barrier to overcome thermal energy, it is better to use coating waterproofing.

After applying the primer, the floors should dry, about three hours. After that, apply a layer of primer again. This will increase the quality of adhesion of the tile adhesive to the floor. The next step is marking the floor. Here you should immediately decide according to which scheme the tiles will be laid. For example, diagonally, apart, or just in a straight line, seam to seam. Having decided on the scheme, you can mark the floor to make it easier to lay tiles on a warm floor. Remember that the quality of underfloor heating does not depend on the method of laying tiles you choose. Now consider the technology of laying tiles on a warm floor.

Stages of tile installation

So, first of all, prepare the tile adhesive. Mix according to the manufacturer's instructions. There is a recipe on the packaging of the glue. By sticking to it, you will be able to prepare the glue of the perfect consistency. Mixing is carried out using a drill and a construction mixer.

Advice! When the adhesive is thoroughly mixed, leave it for 15 minutes. Then stir again and it's ready to use.

If you do not have experience in laying tiles, then do not make a big batch. So, glue must be applied to the tile itself. It is leveled with a spatula with teeth. Also glue should be applied to the floor. At one time, spread the glue on one square meter. Apply additional adhesive to the edges and corners of the tiles.

One of the main features of laying tiles is that the space between the tiles and the floor must be completely filled with adhesive. There shouldn't be any gaps. Therefore, this moment you should strictly control. Some experts intentionally put a few millimeters more glue on the tile, and then press it in. Due to these actions, excess glue comes out through the seam, which will be an indicator that the glue has completely filled the entire space.

So, according to the markup, apply the tiles to the floor. Press it moderately. Immediately lay a few more tiles. This will allow you to apply a level and align them on all sides of the plane. Lightly pressing down on the tile will cause the adhesive to come out of the seams. It should be removed immediately, as a special grout will be placed in the seams. To form the same seam, be sure to use crosses. When laying, the adhesive may get on the front side of the tile. It must be removed immediately with a damp sponge or soft cloth. If the adhesive is left on, it will dry out, and then there is a risk of damaging the flooring.

Important! A small gap of up to 20 mm must be left between the tile and the wall. This gap will serve as an expansion joint. When exposed to thermal energy, the surface can expand. For this reason, this gap should be carefully controlled.

When the floor surface is completely tiled, it is unacceptable to turn on underfloor heating. Tile adhesive must acquire the necessary hardness in natural conditions. This is the only way to achieve perfect quality. During the laying process, you will also need to trim the tiles; for this, a special tile cutter is used, it can be mechanical or automatic.

After the masonry is completed, when the tile adhesive has dried, it remains for you to grout the joints. For a warm floor, it is necessary to use a special grout that does not allow moisture to pass through. This will be an additional barrier to moisture penetration. When grouting joints, do not rush. It is extremely important to carefully fill all the seams so that there are no voids. When grouting is done, it is necessary to thoroughly wash the tile. But this should not be done immediately after grouting, because it can be washed all over. Wait a little while for the grout to set.

Advice! The resulting gap between the tile and the wall should not be filled with grout. This expansion joint should be filled with silicone sealant.

Conclusion

So, here we have considered all the features of how tiles are installed on underfloor heating. There are no special differences from ordinary masonry, however, there are small nuances. If you listen to the advice from the article, then you will be able to make a high-quality coating on top of the warm floor. As a consequence, in heating season you will enjoy the warmth and comfort indoors. We hope that this article has helped you figure out how to handle all the work yourself. In addition, we invite you to watch the prepared video material. It will help you consolidate all the provided theory from this article. And if you already had experience of similar work, then share it by leaving comments at the end of the article.

bouw.ru

Laying tiles on a warm floor: instructions and preparation steps

Laying tiles on a warm floor requires certain knowledge and preparation. The technology is not particularly complicated, but there are certain points, non-observance of which will nullify all efforts and lead to damage to expensive material.

Varieties of floors under a tile

Before embarking on laying work, it is necessary to understand the specifics of each type of underfloor heating, what it consists of and what types it is. Such insulation of the house is not expensive and almost everyone can afford it.

First you need to decide which type of heating is the most suitable:

Electric.
Water.

Types of underfloor heating

Electric

Electric underfloor heating is a multi-layer complex consisting of a heater, a heating element, a screed and a final coating. For the final layer, especially in the bathroom or kitchen, tiles are most suitable.

Depending on the heating element used, the electrical coating can be of the following types:

Wired.
infrared.
Using electric mats.

Types of electric underfloor heating

Each type has its own characteristics and characteristics. To determine the type of floor, the consumer most often starts from two aspects - the initial costs of its installation, subsequent operating costs.

Infrared heating is the most beneficial. At the initial stage, you will have to spend a little more than for the installation of other coatings, but subsequently it is seriously saved family budget when paying for electricity.

This coating is the least "capricious", suitable for any ceramic tile or laminate.

Water

Installation of a water floor is very expensive, but it pays off with subsequent operation. Experts believe that such a coating is not very effective and unsafe.

For its installation, a set of pipes of a certain section is used. The principle is the same as for a central heating system. Only in this case, the heater is not mounted on the wall, but on the floor. circulates through pipes hot water. They can be filled with a screed or a dry installation system can be applied, and then the final layer - ceramic tiles - can be placed.

Tile laying instructions

Of course, it is better to entrust the laying of tiles to specialists, but this is associated with large financial costs. Therefore, when some training and learning the rules, this business will be within the power of everyone.

Before starting work, consider the following points:

Underfloor heating should be on the same level as the rest of the surfaces in the house.
The screed layer should not be less than one centimeter, otherwise there is no heat dissipation over the entire surface of the tile.
The electric floor must not be placed under furniture or covered with anything, if these requirements are not met, all elements will burn out very quickly.

Stages of laying tiles

Laying tiles begins only after the completion of all installation work and fixing the elements. Actions are carried out in the following sequence:

Step by step tiling

Dilute the adhesive according to the instructions, apply it to the area with a square, the sides of which are equal to 4 ceramic tiles, folded side by side.
A layer of tile adhesive is applied to the back of the tile with a spatula.
Gently place the tiles on the surface, pressing lightly to the floor in the middle, each time you need to monitor the evenness of the installation.
To maintain an even seam between the tiled squares, it is necessary to use plastic crosses.
Crosses can be removed only after the surface is completely leveled.
After the fixing composition has dried, you can start grouting the joints.

Before starting work, you must carefully read the instructions for using the adhesive composition. The main point is the drying time.

While the glue has not dried up, you can remove the curvature in the installation and pull out the cross. After it has completely dried, this will not be possible.

For the professional performance of work on your own, you will need the following tools and materials:

Necessary tools for laying tiles

Adhesive for laying tiles on underfloor heating.
Grout for seams.
The spatula is soft rubber.
Notched metal spatula.
Plastic crosses.
Level.
Tile cutter.
Ceramic tile.

When buying tiles, add 15% to the surface area to be covered. Since part of the purchased volume will go to pruning or battle.

When choosing a grout color, it is worth starting from the tone of the tile. The grout should be slightly darker.

Until all components are completely dry, heating system sex is strictly prohibited. It takes up to three weeks for complete drying.

How to prepare tiles for floor heating

Before you start laying the tiled layer, you need to make sure that the “warm floor” system is working. All wires and communications must be completely hidden.

Floor cement screed

Usually, a cement-sand screed is used to hide the elements. It should be smooth, even and completely dry.

Any contamination from the surface is removed, the irregularities are overwritten. The main thing is that the screed is filled in level, then laying the tiles will be much easier.

The screed must be covered with a deep penetration primer or concrete contact. It takes two hours to dry the compositions. Then the procedure should be repeated, this will ensure better adhesion of the tiles.

Do not carry out priming or tiling work immediately after checking the system. It must be turned off and wait for the surface to cool completely. Otherwise, the adhesive base will dry out and will not hold the top layer.

Layout of the room for laying tiles

Before laying tiles, you need to mark the floor.

It is even worth drawing a layout. This is especially important when using multi-colored tiles or laying patterns, piping.

Tiling scheme

There are three main laying patterns:

Diagonally.
Horizontally.
On the run.

In the first case, a large amount of material goes into residues. You can, in general, use squares of different sizes and lay them out in a run.

All this must be clearly marked on a piece of paper, where the layout scheme should be displayed in a reduced size.

Then the scheme is proportionally transferred to the floor. Beginners should completely mark the entire surface, with a bright selection of points. Marking is carried out using a chopping cord with paint or chalk.

The main thing is to determine the line of the first row. It is measured from the longest wall. Then the rest of the surface of the room is marked. This method is relevant for tiles without a pattern.

Tile laying options

For a tiled layer with a pattern, you need to draw not a horizontal, but a diagonal.

Using a long tape measure or rope, we connect the corners of the room diagonally. The point of intersection of the lines is the center of the room. It is from this place that the markup begins.

After marking is completed, it is worth laying out the tiles and checking how correctly the main lines are drawn.

The method of laying the tiles does not affect the functional features of the warm floor at all. Therefore, you can follow your individual preferences.

glue preparation step

After marking and laying out the tiles in a dry way, you can proceed to the main work. It all starts with the preparation of tile adhesive.

For this you need:

Basic mix.
Capacity.
Drill or perforator (used for better mixing of glue).

Cooking rules are displayed in the instructions from the manufacturer. Strict adherence to it will ensure the receipt of a good adhesive substance. Do not mix the entire composition at once. It is better to do this in small portions, since after drying, it can no longer be used.

Preparing tile adhesive

The required amount of water is poured into the prepared container. The mixture is then added and mixed thoroughly. If you do the opposite, you get a large number of lumps that will be difficult to break. The finished glue has the consistency of thick sour cream.

A small amount of the mixture can be mixed manually using a conventional stick. This will take a longer time. It is better to use a drill, puncher or construction mixer.

The composition should not be liquid. This is checked as follows: you need to put a small amount of the prepared mass on the spatula and tilt it. If the mixture holds, does not run or drip, a quality adhesive is obtained.

After kneading, the mass should stand for 10-15 minutes. Then it mixes again. After that, the composition is ready for use.

Seam Process

After laying the tiles and its complete drying, the seams are processed. For this, a special moisture-resistant grout is purchased. It can be sold in the store already ready for use.

The mixture is applied to a rubber spatula, with which all joints are evenly filled. The grout should be just below the main tile covering, that is, not protrude above the surface.

Scheme of the location and movement of the rubber spatula when grouting

Do not wait for the grout to dry completely. No later than half an hour, excess stains must be washed off with warm water and a soft cloth. If you delay a little, the dirt will dry out and it will be very difficult to remove it.

Laying ceramic tiles with your own hands does not require any in-depth knowledge. You need some skill and free time.

Subsequently, you can get the perfect ceramic surface that will hold firmly on the warm floor for many years.

Video: Laying tiles on a warm floor

promzn.ru

Is it possible and how to install an electric floor heating on a tile?

Is it possible to install an electric underfloor heating without dismantling the tile and cover it with ceramic tiles?
Marina

Expert answer

Good afternoon, Marina!

Laying a new ceramic coating over an electric underfloor heating laid on an old tile is allowed. In this case, it is important to follow a few rules.

It is necessary to carefully analyze whether an increase in the floor height by 20-25 mm will prevent the opening of doors, hide utilities, etc.
The old base must be monolithic. To get information about its quality, tap the entire tile with a wooden mallet. If necessary, individual tiles are removed, and the voids are filled with a cement-sand mortar.
To increase the adhesive ability of the old coating, it is recommended to walk on it with a grinder with a diamond disc, make notches, drills, etc. Less effective way is the treatment of the base with primers of the Betonkontakt type.
Part of the glue is applied to the old tiles, after which the heating mats are laid. After that, according to the usual technology, a new ceramic tile is laid. The total thickness of the adhesive layer should not exceed 10–15 mm.
It is not allowed to match the seams of the new and old coating.

As you can see, the difficulty lies only in preparing the base of the floor. Nevertheless, if possible, it is better to remove the old tile, and lay a layer of thermal insulation in its place. This will prevent heat leakage into the ceiling and will reduce energy costs.

Thanks to my versatile hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorite ones are engineering, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know many nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, as a result of studying at a technical university and graduate school, but also from the practical side, since I try to do everything with my own hands.

aqua-rmnt.com

Laying tiles on a warm floor with your own hands (photo, video)

In a modern home, underfloor heating is not a luxury, but an objective necessity. Especially if the family has small children. It creates coziness in the house and can help reduce heating costs.

Systems "Warm floor" according to the type of heating element are divided into water and electric. Each of them has both pluses and weaknesses, analyzing which each person makes his choice.

Having decided on the type of heating, the owner of the house again finds himself in a dilemma - which type of flooring is more suitable for his new floor.

What is this article about

What flooring is best for underfloor heating?

Of all the known coating options for underfloor heating, linoleum is the least suitable. After all, when heated, it becomes soft and can be easily deformed with the least mechanical impact. In addition, inexpensive types of linoleum have a large proportion of the synthetic component and can release toxic substances from heating.

It is acceptable to cover the TP with carpet. It is good to use laminate for these purposes, but when choosing it, you need to pay attention to the markings. Many grades of material have recently begun to indicate the permissible heating temperature.

The most suitable flooring in this case is ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware and stone. This is due to the fact that these types of material have a high degree of thermal conductivity and thermal inertia, according to these indicators they are many times superior to all other types of flooring.

Before you figure out how to lay tiles on a warm floor, you should find out which of the above types is preferable for a home.

The choice of tiles for underfloor heating

When choosing between ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware and stone, it is worth analyzing them in different aspects. From the point of view of thermal conductivity, stone wins slightly, porcelain stoneware is in second place and tile is somewhat behind, since this characteristic depends on the porosity of the material - the higher the porosity, the lower the thermal conductivity. But the difference in performance is small.

Wear resistance in our case is not significant, because even the lowest indicator that ceramics has is sufficient for non-commercial premises. And if you compare the price, then ceramic tiles definitely win.

In any case, it is up to the customer to decide based on financial capabilities.

Laying tiles on different types of electric floor heating

Depending on the type of floors, there are some differences in the technology of laying tiles. If you take into account all the possible nuances, then laying tiles on a warm floor with your own hands will be within the power of every person, and not just a master tiler.

Tile on infrared floor

On a warm electric floor, mounted using an infrared film, tiles can be laid in two ways:

with the use of gypsum fiber (GVL) or glass-magnesium (SML) sheet;
with concrete screed.

In the first variant, a hydrobarrier should be placed on the heating film, then a GVL or LSU sheet. And on top of the sheets, tiles are already being laid. These materials are good because they have an ideal flat surface, so the tile lays down without flaws.

It is worth noting that this method is faster, because before laying the tiles, you do not have to wait for the screed to dry. But there are also disadvantages - a layer of sheets will prevent the floors from warming up, the process of heating the tile will be longer.

In the case of pouring wet screed technological process longer, but such installation will cost a little less. For greater strength, the screed should be reinforced. It is important to use for this not a metal, but a plastic mesh. The concrete layer in this case can be small - about 5 mm, you can replace it with liquid tile adhesive. After the screed has dried, the tile is laid.

Laying tiles on electrical mats

This type of underfloor heating is the easiest to install and does not require any special knowledge and skills. In addition, before laying the tiles, it is not necessary to make a sand-cement screed. The laid mat is covered with a thin layer of tile adhesive and the tile is laid.

cable floor

This type of underfloor heating is rarely used in apartment buildings. The reason for this is the need to lay a rather thick cement-sand layer (4-5 cm) under the tile. As a result, the whole structure “steals” about 8 cm of the height of the room.

water floor

A water floor is more often used in private houses, since for its installation it is necessary to deepen the floors. This is due to the fact that the screed with this option requires at least 8 cm, plus the pipes themselves in the underfloor heating system add height. Thus, the floor can be raised by more than 10 cm. But this type of TP is the cheapest to operate, therefore it is quite popular.

The process of laying tiles on a warm water floor is the same as when laying it on ordinary floors. The only difference is that you need to apply glue to both the base and the back of the tile.

As can be seen from the information presented in the article, laying tiles on a warm floor is no more difficult than on a regular one. The main thing is to follow some simple rules:

When laying any type of tile on a warm floor, use a tile adhesive specially designed for this type of work;
For tile joints, it is better to use a two-component epoxy grout;
If a sand-cement screed was poured under the tile laying, then you should wait for it to dry completely and only after that start working with the floor covering.

izplitki.com

It is completely ugly when, after repairing the premises, the wires are not hidden in the wall, but lie randomly on the floor or hang on the wall. They not only spoil the overall picture of the room, but can also lead to an accident. In some cases, you have to think about how to connect some kind of device and at the same time not spoil the design of the room. Of course, you should pay attention to how to hide the wires in the apartment.

Each house is connected to one or another household appliance, and in any case, the wires on the wall from these appliances can somehow catch the eye. This article will give detailed instructions on how to hide wires on the wall, in the wall and in the floor.

Hiding wires in the wall

First, with the help of a wall chaser, after removing the remnants of plaster and concrete, cut a strobe in the wall in which all the wires will be hidden. The wiring must be placed in a protective sheath - corrugation, which serves to protect against external adverse influences. Then the wires should be laid in the cut channels, after which the wall must be plastered.

To hide the wires in the wall, you have to break its integrity, and you often don’t want to do this, because the interior will suffer, in addition, the work is associated with dust and debris, and subsequently the wall must be reconstructed, which involves certain costs. Therefore, you can use other, more profitable methods in which you do not need to resort to wall chasing.

Wire on the wall

If you have an artistic taste, then you can fix the wire on the wall, making a picture out of it. It is quite clear that a native, one and a half meter wire is not enough for these purposes. Choose a suitable drawing, and transfer its contours to the wall, making a low-fat drawing with a simple pencil. Now you need to calculate the required amount of wire. To do this, you can attach a nylon thread to the wall so that it repeats the pattern. Then its distance can be measured. Do not forget to add the length from the drawing to the outlet and to the source of electricity consumption - add a meter in reserve and you will get the required amount.

Wire manufacturers most often do not indulge in an abundance of wire colors, so you have to choose from what is available - black or white. If these colors do not suit you, then you can buy an extension cord, which can be pink or red. Do not rush to rely on your opinion - try attaching a strip of colored fabric to the wall and you will immediately see if the chosen color suits and whether it will be in harmony with the overall environment.

If you decide to make everything simple, but tasteful, then you can fix the decor on the wire or come up with your own, something original.

Alternative Methods

You can find a different approach - mask the wires, not hide them, and this will help existing elements premises, for example door frames, plinths, ceiling baguette, as well as heating risers. With the right approach to work, the laying of wires can be made almost invisible, which will favorably affect the interior of the room. Usually low-voltage wires (internet and telephone) do not cause difficulties in laying, they can be hidden in baseboards, under metal thresholds or in platbands. When laying power cable a different approach is needed.

It is problematic to stretch power wires along the wall, as they are of large cross section and almost always white color which makes them stand out from the wall.

Often, all electrical communications in our time are laid by a hidden method, but due to various circumstances, such a laying option is not possible, for example, when, during repairs, it becomes necessary to install additional sockets or switches.

We hide the wire in the cable channel

Almost always in the house there is a section of wiring that needs to be driven into the wall or closed with a cable channel, which is a plastic box - it will protect the electrical wires from mechanical damage. The box has an attractive appearance and in this case it can be used as decorative element. This option is also a solution to fire safety problems.

Laying wires in the bathroom can be especially difficult when the walls and floor of the room are completely tiled. If there is a false ceiling in the bathroom, the wires can be hidden in it, and if this is not possible, then the cable channel will help in this situation.

It is not recommended to install sockets in the bathroom, and if you do not have an urgent need for this, give up this idea, limiting yourself to installing lighting fixtures. If you need an outlet, then take care of safety precautions, and the outlet must be waterproof.

Wiring on the floor

It is also worth paying attention to how the wires are laid on the floor. To date, special skirting boards are produced, in which a niche for the cable is structurally provided. The top panel of the plinth is removed, the cable is laid there, then it is put back in place. The advantage of this method is convenience and dust-free operation. In such a plinth, you can hide both computer wires and a network cable.

Often wires from various chargers interfere with us. In this case, you can do as in the photo - hide them in a box specially made for this. If you can offer your own method, then at the end of the article you can add a comment and attach a photo of your invention to it.

Floor wiring

If it is necessary to hide the wires in the floor, then with the help of a wall chaser or a puncher, a gate is made in concrete, the wiring is threaded into the corrugation and fits into this recess. Upon completion of the work, the installation site is leveled with a sand-cement mortar.

If your house has a wooden floor, then in order to conduct wiring under it, you will have to remove the boards, and live the cable in a metal pipe.

As a rule, the TV is placed on the wall in front of everyone, so the wire from the TV will be very noticeable to others. It is best to hide the wire in the wall, and make sockets behind the TV. For this purpose, a wall chaser is used in the wall, and if this is not the case, then a groove is made with a perforator, the wires are collected and laid in a corrugation. Then the wires with the help of special fasteners and brackets must be fixed in the strobe and plastered.

If you do not necessarily need to completely hide the wire, then it can be disguised.

All the subtleties associated with wiring in the house are best provided for at the stage of repairing the premises so that there are no problems later.

Video

See how you can hide the wire from the lamp in the plinth:

This video shows how to make and hide home theater wiring:

Photo

Even 15 - 20 years ago, the load on the power grid was relatively small, but today there are a large number of household appliances provoked an increase in loads at times. Old wires are far from always able to withstand heavy loads and over time there is a need to replace them. Laying electrical wiring in a house or apartment is a matter that requires certain knowledge and skills from the master. First of all, this concerns knowledge of the rules for wiring electrical wiring, the ability to read and create wiring diagrams, as well as skills in electrical installation. Of course, you can do the wiring with your own hands, but for this you must adhere to the rules and recommendations below.

Wiring Rules

All construction activities and Construction Materials strictly regulated by a set of rules and requirements - SNiP and GOST. As for the installation of electrical wiring and everything related to electricity, you should pay attention to the Rules for the Arrangement of Electrical Installations (abbreviated PUE). This document prescribes what and how to do when working with electrical equipment. And if we want to lay electrical wiring, then we will need to study it, especially the part that relates to the installation and selection of electrical equipment. The following are the basic rules that should be followed when installing electrical wiring in a house or apartment:

key electrical components such as distribution boxes, meters, sockets and switches should be easily accessible;
installation of switches is carried out at a height of 60 - 150 cm from the floor. The switches themselves are located in places where the open door does not prevent access to them. This means that if the door opens to the right, the switch is on the left side and vice versa. The wire to the switches is laid from top to bottom;
sockets are recommended to be installed at a height of 50 - 80 cm from the floor. This approach is dictated by flood safety. Also, sockets are installed at a distance of more than 50 cm from gas and electric stoves, as well as heating radiators, pipes and other grounded objects. The wire to the sockets is laid from the bottom up;
the number of sockets in the room must correspond to 1 pc. for 6 m2. The kitchen is an exception. It is equipped with as many sockets as necessary to connect household appliances. Installation of sockets in the toilet is prohibited. For sockets in the bathroom outside, a separate transformer is equipped;
wiring inside or outside the walls is carried out only vertically or horizontally, and the installation location is displayed on the wiring plan;
wires are laid at a certain distance from pipes, ceilings and other things. For horizontal ones, a distance of 5 - 10 cm from floor beams and cornices and 15 cm from the ceiling is required. From the floor, the height is 15 - 20 cm. Vertical wires are placed at a distance of more than 10 cm from the edge of the door or window opening. Distance from gas pipes must be at least 40 cm;
when laying external or hidden wiring, it is necessary to ensure that it does not come into contact with the metal parts of building structures;
when laying several parallel wires, the distance between them must be at least 3 mm or each wire must be hidden in a protective box or corrugation;
wiring and connection of wires is carried out inside special junction boxes. Connection points are carefully isolated. The connection of copper and aluminum wire to each other is strictly prohibited;
grounding and neutral wires are bolted to the devices.

Project and wiring diagram

Work on laying electrical wiring begins with the creation of a project and a wiring diagram. This document is the basis for future house wiring. Creating a project and a scheme is quite a serious matter and it is better to entrust it to experienced specialists. The reason is simple - the safety of those living in a house or apartment depends on it. Project creation services will cost a certain amount, but it's worth it.

Those who are used to doing everything with their own hands will have to, adhering to the rules described above, as well as having studied the basics of electrics, independently make a drawing and calculations for the loads on the network. There are no particular difficulties in this, especially if there is at least some understanding of what electricity, and what are the consequences of careless handling of it. The first thing you need is conventions. They are shown in the photo below:

Using them, we make a drawing of the apartment and outline lighting points, installation locations for switches and sockets. How many and where they are installed is described above in the rules. The main task of such a scheme is to indicate the installation location of devices and wires. When creating a wiring diagram, it is important to think in advance where, how much and what household appliances will be.

The next step in creating the circuit will be the wiring to the connection points on the circuit. At this point it is necessary to dwell in more detail. The reason is the type of wiring and connection. There are several such types - parallel, serial and mixed. The latter is the most attractive due to the economical use of materials and maximum efficiency. To facilitate the laying of wires, all connection points are divided into several groups:

lighting of the kitchen, corridor and living rooms;
toilet and bathroom lighting;
power supply of sockets in living rooms and corridors;
power supply for kitchen sockets;
power supply socket for electric stove.

The above example is just one of many lighting group options. The main thing to understand is that if you group the connection points, the amount of materials used is reduced and the circuit itself is simplified.

Important! To simplify the wiring to the sockets, the wires can be laid under the floor. Wires for overhead lighting are laid inside the floor slabs. These two methods are good to use if you do not want to ditch the walls. In the diagram, such wiring is marked with a dotted line.

Also in the wiring project, the calculation of the estimated current strength in the network and the materials used are indicated. The calculation is performed according to the formula:

I=P/U;

where P is the total power of all devices used (Watts), U is the mains voltage (Volts).

For example, a 2 kW kettle, 10 60 W bulbs, a 1 kW microwave, a 400 W refrigerator. Current strength 220 volts. As a result (2000+(10x60)+1000+400)/220=16.5 Amps.

In practice, the current strength in the network for modern apartments rarely exceeds 25 A. Based on this, all materials are selected. First of all, this concerns the cross section of the wiring. To facilitate the selection, the table below shows the main parameters of the wire and cable:

The table shows the most accurate values, and since the current can fluctuate quite often, a small margin is required for the wire or cable itself. Therefore, all wiring in an apartment or house is recommended to be made of the following materials:

wire VVG-5 * 6 (five cores and a cross section of 6 mm2) is used in houses with a three-phase power supply to connect the lighting shield to the main shield;
wire VVG-2 * 6 (two cores and a cross section of 6 mm2) is used in houses with a two-phase power supply to connect the lighting shield to the main shield;
wire VVG-3 * 2.5 (three cores and a cross section of 2.5 mm2) is used for most of the wiring from the lighting panel to junction boxes and from them to sockets;
wire VVG-3 * 1.5 (three cores and a cross section of 1.5 mm2) is used for wiring from junction boxes to lighting points and switches;
wire VVG-3 * 4 (three cores and a cross section of 4 mm2) is used for electric stoves.

To find out the exact length of the wire, you will have to run a little around the house with a tape measure, and add another 3-4 meters of stock to the result. All wires are connected to the lighting panel, which is installed at the entrance. Protection circuit breakers are mounted in the shield. Usually this is an RCD for 16 A and 20 A. The former are used for lighting and switches, the latter for sockets. For an electric stove, a separate RCD is installed at 32 A, but if the power of the stove exceeds 7 kW, then an RCD is installed at 63 A.

Now you need to calculate how many sockets and distribution boxes you need. Everything is pretty simple here. Just look at the diagram and make a simple calculation. In addition to the materials described above, various consumables will be required, such as electrical tape and PPE caps for connecting wires, as well as pipes, cable channels or boxes for electrical wiring, socket boxes.

Installation of electrical wiring

There is nothing super complicated in the work on the installation of electrical wiring. The main thing during installation is to follow the safety rules and follow the instructions. All work can be done alone. From the installation tool, you will need a tester, a puncher or a grinder, a drill or a screwdriver, wire cutters, pliers and a Phillips and slotted screwdriver. A laser level would be helpful. Since without it it is quite difficult to make vertical and horizontal markings.

Important! When carrying out repairs with the replacement of wiring in an old house or apartment with hidden wiring, you must first find and, if necessary, remove the old wires. For these purposes, a wiring sensor is used.

Marking and preparation of channels for electrical wiring

We start installation with markup. To do this, using a marker or pencil, we put a mark on the wall where the wire will be laid. At the same time, we observe the rules for placing wires. The next step is to mark the places for the installation of lighting fixtures, sockets and switches and a lighting panel.

Important! In new houses, a special niche is provided for the lighting shield. In the old ones, such a shield is simply hung on the wall.

Having finished with the markup, we proceed either to the installation of wiring open way, or to chasing walls for hidden wiring. First, with the help of a perforator and a special nozzle of the crown, holes are cut out for the installation of sockets, switches and junction boxes. For the wires themselves, strobes are made using a grinder or a puncher. In any case, there will be a lot of dust and dirt. The depth of the groove of the strobe should be about 20 mm, and the width should be such that all wires fit freely into the strobe.

As for the ceiling, there are several options for resolving the issue with the placement and fixing of the wiring. The first - if the ceiling is suspended or suspended, then all the wiring is simply fixed to the ceiling. The second - a shallow strobe is made for wiring. The third - the wiring is hidden in the ceiling. The first two options are extremely simple to implement. But for the third, some explanations will have to be made. In panel houses, ceilings with internal voids are used, it is enough to make two holes and stretch the wires inside the ceiling.

Having finished with the gating, we proceed to the last stage of preparation for wiring. Wires to bring them into the room must be pulled through the walls. Therefore, you will have to punch holes with a puncher. Usually such holes are made in the corner of the premises. We also make a hole for the wire plant from the switchboard to the lighting panel. Having finished the wall chasing, we begin the installation.

Installation of open wiring

We begin installation with the installation of a lighting panel. If a special niche was created for it, then we place it there, if not, then we simply hang it on the wall. We install an RCD inside the shield. Their number depends on the number of lighting groups. The shield assembled and ready for connection looks like this: in the upper part there are zero terminals, grounding terminals at the bottom, automatic machines are installed between the terminals.

Now we start the wire VVG-5 * 6 or VVG-2 * 6 inside. From the side of the switchboard, the electric wiring is connected by an electrician, so for now we will leave it without connection. Inside the lighting panel, the input wire is connected as follows: we connect the blue wire to zero, the white wire to the top contact of the RCD, and connect the yellow wire with a green stripe to ground. RCD automata are interconnected in series at the top using a jumper from a white wire. Now let's move on to the wiring in an open way.

On the lines outlined earlier, we fix boxes or cable channels for electrical wiring. Often, with open wiring, they try to place the cable channels themselves near the plinth, or vice versa, almost under the very ceiling. We fix the wiring box with self-tapping screws in increments of 50 cm. We make the first and last hole in the box at a distance of 5 - 10 cm from the edge. To do this, we drill holes in the wall with a puncher, hammer the dowel inside and fix the cable channel with self-tapping screws.

Another distinctive feature of open wiring are sockets, switches and distribution boxes. All of them are hung on the wall, instead of being walled in. Therefore, the next step is to install them in place. It is enough to attach them to the wall, mark the places for fasteners, drill holes and fix them in place.

Next, we proceed to the wiring. We start by laying the main line and from the sockets to the lighting panel. As already noted, we use the VVG-3 * 2.5 wire for this. For convenience, we start from the connection point towards the shield. We hang a label on the end of the wire indicating what kind of wire and where it comes from. Next, we lay the wires VVG-3 * 1.5 from switches and lighting fixtures to junction boxes.

Inside the junction boxes, we connect the wires using PPE or carefully insulate them. Inside the lighting panel, the main wire VVG-3 * 2.5 is connected as follows: brown or red core - phase, connected to the bottom of the RCD, blue - zero, connected to the zero bus at the top, yellow with a green stripe - ground to the bus at the bottom. With the help of a tester, we “ring” all the wires in order to eliminate possible errors. If everything is in order, we call an electrician and connect to the switchboard.

Installation of hidden electrical wiring

Hidden wiring is quite simple. A significant difference from the open one is only in the way the wires are hidden from the eyes. The rest of the steps are almost the same. First, we install a lighting shield and RCDs, after which we start and connect the input cable from the side of the switchboard. We also leave it unconnected. This will be done by an electrician. Next, we install distribution boxes and socket boxes inside the niches made.

Now let's move on to the wiring. We are the first to lay the main line from the VVG-3 * 2.5 wire. If it was planned, then we lay the wires to the sockets in the floor. To do this, we put the VVG-3 * 2.5 wire into a pipe for electrical wiring or a special corrugation and lay it to the point where the wire is output to the sockets. There we place the wire inside the strobe and put it into the socket. The next step will be laying the VVG-3 * 1.5 wire from switches and lighting points to junction boxes, where they are connected to the main wire. We isolate all connections with PPE or electrical tape.

At the end, we “ring” the entire network using a tester for possible errors and connect to the lighting panel. The connection method is similar to that described for open wiring. Upon completion, we close the strobes with gypsum putty and invite an electrician to connect it to the switchboard.

Laying electricians in a house or apartment for an experienced craftsman is quite an easy task. But for those who are not well versed in electrics, you should take the help of experienced professionals from start to finish. This, of course, will cost money, but this way you can protect yourself from mistakes that can lead to a fire.

Any major renovation of an apartment, and even a local renovation of a room, and even more so a renovation of a bathroom, will not do without replacing, supplementing or changing the wiring diagram. When planning these works, you must draw up a wiring diagram in the apartment (I talked about this in another blog article, and you can always read it), and in addition to the wiring diagram, decide on the wiring methods. But in order to decide on this, you need to know the methods of electrical wiring.

Try to carry out electrical installation in accordance with the latest edition of the EMP (Electrical Installation Rules), Edition 7th. Watch and download.

According to 7.1.37 - 7.1.39 PUE, when repairing an apartment, repairing a kitchen, repairing a bathroom, the following ways electrical wiring in the apartment:

Concealed wiring in the cable channels of building structures.
Concealed wiring - non-replaceable wiring, embedded in the wall or floor.
Electrical wiring in strobes. In buildings made of non-combustible building materials, which include concrete, brick, cinder blocks, etc. Non-removable monolithic hidden wiring of group networks is allowed in the grooves (strobes) of walls, partitions, ceilings, under plaster, in the floor preparation layer or in the voids of building structures, carried out with a cable or insulated wires in a protective sheath.
Open wiring in electric stove, boxes, corrugation, etc.

Note: The use of non-replaceable monolithic concealed wiring of wires in panels of walls, partitions and ceilings, made during their manufacture at construction industry plants or wiring performed in the field joints of panels during the installation of buildings, is not allowed (PUE ed. 7)

Hidden wiring embedded in the walls

The very concept of hidden wiring implies that the wires used for wiring should not be visible. Consider hidden electrical wiring in the strobes (furrows) of the walls.

There are several ways to make the strobe itself.

Wiring boxes for concealed wiring

Hidden wiring involves the installation of electrical boxes (sockets) for sockets and switches. To install the socket boxes, a niche of the required size is hollowed out. The socket boxes are frozen with alabaster, a cable is inserted into them, then the box is monolithic with gypsum plaster. If hidden wiring is done under the tile, then the sockets must be monolithic so that they protrude slightly from the wall.

Concealed wiring in false ceilings and plasterboard partitions

Electrical wiring laid in suspended ceilings and plasterboard partitions is also hidden wiring. It is carried out in plastic pipes, cable channels. Corrugation is good for this.

Corrugation from the French word gaufrer - to press the folds. In electrical wiring, a corrugation is a hose with diametrical stiffeners and steel wire laid inside.

The wire is intended for pulling electric wires or electric cables inside the corrugation. Corrugation is used not only for open, but also for hidden wiring. Corrugations of different diameters are produced.

Corrugation is pvc pipe, corrugated. The corrugation is produced in the following diameters: 16 mm, 20 mm, 25 mm, 32 mm, 40 mm, 50 mm, 63 mm. Corrugation is carried out only with a single cable, and not with a bundle of cables. To attach the corrugation with a cable to a wall or ceiling, special clip-on clips are used. The diameter of the clamps is selected according to the diameter of the corrugation.

Note: Hidden wiring in the corrugation should be carried out, according to the PUE (Electrical Installation Rule) clause 7.1.38, only on non-combustible or slightly combustible surfaces.

Open wiring in the cable channel

The cable channel is designed for laying open wiring

Designed for laying open wiring. The cable channel is made of various materials plastic, steel or aluminium. For open wiring in an apartment, a plastic cable channel is usually used.

The most popular is a box, rectangular in profile, with a cover protecting the cable channel. Inside the channel, a partition is used to distinguish electrical cables into power and low-current ones. Installation of electrical switches, electrical sockets and other electrical installation products into the structure is carried out with a simple latch. The assembly and distribution of cable channels of the “box” type is facilitated through the use of accessory parts (L-shaped corner, T-shaped corner, plug, connector, outer corner, inner corner).

Cable channels are available in various sizes. The modern building materials market allows you to choose a cable channel in accordance with the requirements of your open wiring.

Electrical wiring.

According to the technical requirements, the wiring in the electric skirting board is the same as wiring in the cable channel - this is open wiring.

The electric plinth is a plinth made of PVC (polyvinylchloride-plastic) with a special cable channel in the middle from the front side. Cable laying can be done both in this cable channel and between the skirting board and the wall. Ideal for laying telephone, computer and antenna lines in open wiring. The electric plinth is easily attached to the wall with the help of dowel-nails, it is also easily connected to each other both in a straight line and at an angle of 90º.

Perhaps these are all the main methods of electrical wiring in an apartment used in apartment renovation, kitchen renovation or bathroom renovation. I hope this article about the methods of wiring in an apartment: hidden wiring, open wiring, wiring in a corrugation, wiring in a cable channel, wiring in an electric skirting board will be useful to everyone who repairs apartments, repairs rooms or repairs a bathroom.

These are all ways of wiring in the apartment. Good luck to you in your endeavors!

Wall chasing works (photo)

Shtroblenie hands

Hidden junction boxes