Where to install a cold water storage tank: location options and installation rules. Water storage tanks

Everything ingenious is simple! Even in the 21st century, where technical achievements are sometimes incredibly difficult to understand, there is a place for simple and ingenious inventions. One of them is a storage tank for water.

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What is a storage tank and do you need one?

storage tank- This is a simple, but very useful device, almost indispensable in conditions of autonomous water supply. Even calling it a device seems wrong, because it is an ordinary container into which water is supplied from a well or well, and from where it subsequently enters the boiler or pipes.

It is difficult for city dwellers to understand what problems an illiterate arrangement of an autonomous water supply system in a private house can turn into. They live in an apartment that was originally supplied with water, they have hot shower, the opportunity to take a bath at any time, wash the dishes, start the washing machine, not to mention the water heating - the designers, builders and utilities took care of everything. The source of water supply for a city dweller is the most reliable, and all problems with interruptions in the flow of water are not solved by him.

However, those who live in cottage and holiday villages know how difficult it is to organize a reliable and affordable source of water, to which you can connect a pumping station and get the necessary water pressure. Most often the conditions country house not so perfect, for example:

• The house has a connection to a centralized water supply, however, water is supplied here not around the clock, but several times a week (this is typical for many summer cottages);
• There is a well on the site, but its productivity is not too high - it quickly empties and it takes time to fill up;
• Water comes from an artesian well, which is almost impossible to drain, however, only an automatic pump can be used to supply water, which is turned off in case of network outages.

The storage tank acts as an accumulator, storing water during the period when there is no need to supply it to the house.

Private water supply system with storage tank

There are two types of water supply systems of a private house with the participation of a storage tank - with an upper and lower tank. As the name implies, the fundamental difference here lies in the location of the tank relative to the water supply.

Water supply with top tank

The storage tank in such a system is located on the top floor of the house. It works on the principle of a water tower. The advantage of this option will be, first of all, the possibility of autonomous operation of the equipment. Water will flow to the water intake points in a natural way, without the use of a pump. However, one should not expect a strong pressure - as we remember, the height difference between the water source and the tap, equal to 10 m, creates a pressure of 1 atm. If we apply this to real conditions and assume that the tank will be installed in the attic two-story house with a ceiling height of 3 meters, the pressure in the taps on the first floor will be only 0.6 atm, and on the second floor - half as much. At the same time, we do not take into account the hydraulic resistance of the pipeline.

Due to the low pressure of water coming from the upper tank, such a system is recommended for use in country houses where the need for comfortable water supply is minimal. Permanent residence in the house will require a more modern approach

In addition, a fairly large tank installed indoors will take up useful space. As a summer option, you can install a tank on the street on a special overpass, but this option is not suitable for winter. However, there is a way out here too - electric heating of the tank and insulation of the pipeline. Calculate how much this venture will cost you ... No, definitely worth looking for more rational solution! And, fortunately, it has been around for a long time.

Water supply with bottom tank

The lower tank is a solution for those who strive for comfort and know how to properly use the space of the site and at home. The tank is buried in the ground here. And even this plot of land you can use - by digging a tank half a meter below ground level, you get a site suitable for growing flowers or plants that are not related to root crops. The dimensions of the tank in this case are not limited by anything, and the larger it is, the longer it can cover the difference between the needs of the inhabitants of the house in water and the available resources.

Of course, there are cons, but they have a completely familiar form:

• You will need a pumping station to extract water from the tank and supply it to the house;
• By placing the tank underground, you make cleaning and repair difficult to access - to make the task easier, make holes for revision and cleaning, and position the tank itself slightly at an angle so that the sediment masses accumulate in one place (preferably under the cleaning hole);
• In winter, without insulation, the tank can freeze, and in the spring, if it is not positioned correctly, it will lead.

A plastic tank buried in the ground should have either a round shape or stiffeners, if both options are not available, create a concrete shell around it

How to calculate the volume of the storage tank?

Two quantities are involved in calculating the required volume of the storage tank:

• Water consumption. The average data will be here a very average value to start from it. Consumption depends on the set of possibilities for using water in the house and the number of inhabitants. Your house may only have a couple of sinks and a toilet, or it may also have a dishwasher, shower, washing machine, etc. Of course, the difference between the two options will be great. In general, the consumption per person per day is about 200 liters of water in the presence of all the benefits of civilization. In conditions country house where water is used for cooking and washing dishes, this consumption is reduced to about 60 liters per day. However, it is best to calculate your expenses yourself;

• Frequency of use. Measure your needs and the possibilities of your plumbing. You can choose a huge tank that will hold water for all your needs, but if the capacity of the system is not enough to pump enough water into it in the allotted time, the need for a large tank simply disappears. In addition, it is worth considering the reasons why you decided to purchase a storage tank - if it serves to insure against rare and short-term power outages (when powered from a well) or water (when supplied from a centralized water supply), a small tank will be enough for you.

Do not confuse a storage tank with a hydraulic accumulator, which serves to get rid of frequent short-term switching on of an automatic pump - it stores 25-100 liters of water and is used to conserve pump resources and extend its service life

What is the storage tank made of?

Accumulative tanks are made of food stainless steel or food plastic. In production, they strictly monitor the quality of the material, because water will be in contact with it for quite a long time, which will subsequently be used for food purposes.

Design features are:

• Float valve mounted on the inlet pipe. If the house uses autonomous water supply, the tap is replaced with a pump float switch. For a warning emergency situation in case of breakage of the float, an overflow pipe cuts below the inlet, it joins the sewer;
• A filter is also installed at the inlet, which is selected depending on the degree of water contamination - for relative pure water mud collectors are chosen, and for water with a large amount of sediment - cyclones or centrifugal pumps;
• Also, a strainer is installed on the outlet pipe or right before wiring to the house;
• If the tank has opaque walls, it is worth embedding a level into it;
• Underground tanks are equipped with hatches for cleaning, and the upper tanks are equipped with a drainage pipe embedded at the bottom;
• It is better to use a diffuser to fill the tank with water - this will prevent mixing and agitation of the sediment;
• At the top of the container should be placed ventilation pipe bent at an angle to the ground. When the water is drained and there is no air access, the tank is deformed.

So, you have already made sure that the storage tank is indispensable for a private house. Whatever it is, one thing is clear - it definitely should be. Our consultants will help you choose the right storage tank, and it will be brought and installed by specialists who have been dealing with plumbing equipment for private houses for many years.

In the event that the volume of water flow provided by the main water supply pipe has periodic features or is insufficient, a storage tank for water supply will be required.

• Water supply schemes with a storage tank
• Storage tank volume
• What material to choose a storage tank?
• Storage tank installation methods
• Tank automation and cleaning
• The nuances of installing a storage tank

Water supply schemes with a storage tank

If, for example, the water supply system of a private house with a storage tank is such that the natural flow into the well or well of water is small, then it is necessary to provide a certain supply of water in case its consumption suddenly increases. During the day, water usually accumulates in such a tank, and during the evening rush hour, it is intensively consumed when every member of the family wants to wash. Sometimes water is supplied to a residential building at certain hours. In this case, the storage tank for water supply will help to collect the required amount of water so that it can be used at any time and without interruption.

Storage tank volume

The size of the storage tank directly depends on the number of people living:

• A water volume of no more than 200 liters is considered sufficient per person for everyday household and household needs.
• For country water supply, which does not provide for some items of water consumption, for example, washing, to calculate the volume of the tank, one should proceed from a norm of no more than 80 liters per day per person, or even less. For a family of 2-3 people, a 200-liter water supply tank is quite suitable.
• If water is consumed only for food, drink and washing dishes, as well as morning and evening washing, then even 30 liters per person may well be enough.

What material to choose a storage tank?

A plastic storage tank for water supply is a very common option today. For water, containers made of food-grade plastics or welded from stainless steel can serve. It is unprofitable to use ordinary steel for these purposes, since corrosion will quickly render the container unusable, and it will have to be changed again. In addition, a tank made of the wrong material is more likely to leak or release unwanted substances into the stored water.

Storage tank installation methods

The storage tank can be installed underground, openly and inside the house. At open method the tank is installed on a hill, thanks to which it will act as a water tower and make it unnecessary to use a pump.

Only a small container is installed inside the house, which does not require much space.

An arbitrarily large tank can be hidden underground, and, for example, garden beds can be placed above it. But for underground installation, additional work will be required.

In addition, the container must have a certain configuration. The plastic tank must be round or ribbed, with technological holes for revision and cleaning. If a Eurocube is used, then a concrete shell will be required for it, since a mesh fence will not save from soil pressure.

Tank automation and cleaning

These aspects must be taken into account when installing the tank. If water is supplied with normal pressure and a certain frequency, then the issue can be quite simply solved by mounting a float valve for the toilet on the supply fitting. When filling the container, it will shut off the flow, and the water will not overflow.

If water is taken from a shallow well or a poorly filled well, then for its supply it is necessary to use drainage pump equipped with a float switch. When the water level in the well drops to a critical level, the pump will automatically turn off.

If the storage tank for water supply gives water through the pump, then a float or other switch inside the tank itself will be required. When the water level drops to a minimum, the pump will turn off. You can duplicate it with a water level, which is useful when using washing machine to make sure she has enough water to do her laundry.

The nuances of installing a storage tank

To prevent the storage tank from becoming dirty for longer, a water filter must be installed at its inlet. Usually it is mesh, but for large containers (more than a cubic meter) and with contaminated water, it is better to replace the quickly clogged mesh with a centrifugal filter pump or cyclone filter. Despite the high cost, water supply with a storage tank and a pump will be more economical in operation.

In the tank installed on the podium, you need to do drainage hole through which the sludge will drain during flushing.

With an underground placement option, the tank is cleaned through the inspection hatch, from where dirt is removed from the bottom with a bucket. It is best to use a container with a flat bottom with a slight slope, in which the sludge will accumulate under the inspection hatch, and it will be easier to remove it.

To prevent turbidity from rising from the bottom of the tank when water is supplied, the inlet pipe can be completed with a garden or shower head or a strainer located inside the house can be installed on the outlet pipe for ease of maintenance and cleaning at any time.

Have you installed a storage tank as an addition to the water supply system? Or do you consider it an unnecessary detail? Share your opinion in the comments.

I believe that the accumulative water supply system of a country house or cottage most fully corresponds to the realities of our life. No one can guarantee you that your lights will not be turned off or the pump will not break.

Insurance in this case can serve as a supply of water for one or two days for the necessary needs.

Accumulative scheme with a pumping station and GA.

The simplest, but not the cheapest solution is to add one or more hydraulic accumulators (HA) to the pressurized water supply system so that the total supply of water (namely water, and not the volume of HA) is at least 100 liters. This is enough for two people for two or three days without frills: rinse your hands, cook food, wash dishes. When installing a HA, certain conditions must be met:

— The place of installation must be warm. In the room for HA, the temperature should not fall below zero. Moreover, you can get off with the insulation of the GAs themselves, but no one will give you a guarantee for their trouble-free operation, except for the GA sellers.

- From the pump to the GA, the pipeline must have a minimum resistance. Those. the pipe must be larger than the main wiring around the house.

- The pressure in the air part of the HA must be controlled and maintained at the required level (1.5-2.0 bar).

- The debit of the source (well or well) must be greater than the total volume of water in the GA. Otherwise, the pump will thresh idle and may burn out. And to prevent this from happening, it is desirable:

- The pump must have no-load protection.

Accumulative scheme with a submersible pump and GA.

In addition to the above limitations, a significant drawback of such a water supply system at home is the inability to determine the amount of water remaining in the supply. Although, if you put a pressure gauge in front of the distribution manifold, according to its readings, you can indirectly judge the remaining stock. I would not recommend such a water supply system to summer residents, because. it is almost impossible to completely merge the GA. Well, the owners of wells and wells with a small influx of water will have to come up with something else.

A storage tank made from a plastic barrel.

For example, put a simple storage tank, plastic barrel or a special canister (these are sold) to the attic. I would recommend putting two of them: one for cold water, another for hot. capacity with hot water will not allow containers with cold water to freeze in the most severe frosts. And with sufficient capacity and proper insulation, even if the electricity is turned off (if we are talking about a built-in heating element), it will cool down for a very long time (several days, checked).

You can heat water not only with a heating element, for this you can use both a heating boiler and any stationary stove, which will not be superfluous in places where problems with electricity are constant.

Accumulative scheme with a pumping station.

The essential difference between this water supply scheme and the previous one is that the diameter of the supply (supplying water) pipeline can be small (16-20 mm, just do not forget that the smaller the pipe diameter, the better), and the diameter of the pipe for distribution around the house should be larger ( 20-32mm), to reduce pipeline resistance. Experience shows that a difference in height of 5 meters between the bottom of the tank and the level of the mixer is enough for water to flow from the tap with decent pressure. Although, no one bothers you to put a pump to increase the pressure in the distribution system at home, and in case of a power outage, make a bypass.

Accumulative scheme with a submersible pump controlled by a programmer.

If everything is in order with the influx of water from your source, then, in principle, you do not need to know how much water is in the tanks now. You can put an automatic valve from the toilet bowl with a side connection at the inlet to the supply pipe tank, and it, together with a pump and a pressure switch, will keep your tanks full.

Methods for heating a hot water storage tank.

This automatic valve will not be superfluous even with a small debit of a well or a well in order to prevent overflow of containers (and I would also put an overflow pipe, just in case). Because in this case, the pump will turn on and off automatically, according to the schedule you set. For this, a multi-program programmer is used, thanks to which it is possible to set the time for turning the pump on and off with an accuracy of up to a minute for the day ahead. (A very useful thing in the household. In general, I am not indifferent to automation. For reference: an average pump pumps out 10 liters in 1-3 minutes, depending on the height of the lift.)

Programmer.

It is clear that in this case it would be desirable to know the filling level of the tanks for control. What can be proposed here as a solution. The simplest thing is to find a more accurate pressure gauge with a division value of at least 0.05 bar, and preferably 0.01 bar. Then you can determine the level in the tanks with an accuracy of 0.5 meters (0.05 bar) or 0.1 meters (0.01 bar).

Programmer2

I have not been able to find such a gauge. I made a tank level sensor using the electrical conductivity of water. So that no one, God forbid, does not knock, I used a voltage of 12 volts and a push-button non-fixed switch. Pressed - looked, released - turned off.

Homemade level sensor.

You can also make a one-sided U-shaped manometer. To do this, you need a transparent flexible tube, of small diameter (from a dropper). We bend it in the form of the letter "U" and fix it on any flat vertical surface (on the wall, plywood, cardboard) with clamps or tape. We deafen one of its ends: bend and tie with a thread or insert a cork. The second end must be connected to the tank or a pipe leading from it. Water, poured into the tube, will leave an air bubble in the plugged area, the height of which depends on the water level in the tank. The higher the level in the tank, the more the air in the plugged section of the tube will be compressed. Of course, this pressure gauge will first have to be calibrated, i.e. mark on the tube with a marker the previously checked levels in the tank. But then - use it to your health, and a power outage will not hurt. Of course, this pressure gauge can measure only a small, up to 1 bar, pressure.

Storage tank level indicator.

I could tell you how to make a differential pressure gauge with a mechanical or electromechanical drive, but it seems to me that the examples above are enough to solve the problem of determining the level in tanks. The rest is an order of magnitude more complicated, let's leave this matter to specialists.

I have a negative attitude towards the location of the storage tanks of the water supply system in the underground or basement, because in this case the rule applies: “no light - no water”, and I don’t see any point in this. But there are situations when such an arrangement of tanks is entirely justified.

One of my hated acquaintances steals water from neighbors at night. At night, he throws his pump into their well and fills the storage tanks in the underground. The water is then distributed through pumping station. He tells his neighbors that he has a well in the underground. God be his judge.

Collectors that combine pressure and storage circuits.

Other acquaintances, who do not have a well or a well on the site, use the gardening water supply, which, alas, does not always have water (or maybe it just doesn’t reach them). They always keep the tap open, the water from which is brought into the storage tank located in the basement. Next is the standard scheme with a pumping station.

Unfortunately, I do not know your specific situation, but I sincerely hope that my advice has helped or will help you in organizing the water supply system for your home.

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Reviews (98) on «Accumulative water supply system.»

Hello, Senovad (just better in Russian) ... I once again revised the scheme and if you can think of something with filling the pillow with the help of an electrovalve and other equipment, then from the suction line, as I understand it, there is no way out and you have to do everything on area…
If I make a pit for the pump about 50 cm deep, is it possible to leave the pump in it for the winter, of course, draining the water?

1. Hello Zidane.
   Better just Vadim, especially since I do not hide it. And Latin is needed for scripts written in English. They understand her better.
   You can always come up with something. At least with the help of the same solenoid valves and other "machinery". The main thing is to decide what you would like to get in the end.
   Well, a pit of 50 cm is just another problem. A depth of 50 cm does not decide anything, what it is, what it is not, even with insulation. This is enough for small frosts, but not for long-term storage. If you guarantee that you will drain all the water from the pump and HA (I don’t remember if you have it or not), then you can leave it in the pit. Although this is the same as leaving it on the street - there is no difference. In order for the difference to appear, the depth is needed at the level of the freezing depth with insulation and closing of the top, i.e. not less than 120-140 cm.

Hello, Vadim ... I have a GA in my house, but it seems to me that it’s not a problem to drain the water from the pump ... I’ll blow the automatic watering and at the same time I can blow the pump ...
freezing depth in Odessa is 80 cm, but if it tolerates frost normally without water, then it is not necessary to insulate ... thanks for the answers ...

good afternoon, Vadim!
I have a well in the garden - 35m from the house. there is automation (flow-through) at the head and behind it, right there in the pit, distribution for irrigation. the pipe to the house comes to the accumulator. I plan to put a storage tank (NOT) because iron is dissolved in the water. for NOT already a pumping station and mechanical filters. and now I can’t work out a scheme - how to make friends with automation at the head of the well (so that it would work for irrigation) with NOT. I'm afraid to put a toilet valve - it will suddenly fail, but is NOT in the cellar. what do you advise?

1. Hello Valentine.
   Purely in principle - the "problem" is solved simply. Since the automation is flowing, it means that it is necessary to install controlled fittings (valve, faucet, faucet) at the entrance to the tank, which would stop the flow of water into the tank at the right time. The "toilet valve" has one significant drawback: it opens as soon as the level in the tank drops slightly. Therefore, taking into account the time delta for turning off the pump by the flow automatics, there is a high probability that the tank can be overfilled (decided by the organization of the overflow pipe), if the valve does not hold at least a little, and that the pressure in the system can easily disrupt (break) something, Unfortunately, this has happened more than once.
   Ideally, you need the pump to turn on at a certain level in the tank (or rather, automatics turn it on), and turn off at some level. In this case, a relay circuit with level sensors (electronic, electrical or electro-mechanical) working to open an electrically controlled valve (solenoid valve, electro-mechanical rotary valve or one-turn valve) is almost ideal.
   In principle, in parts, all this is on sale. You just need to put it all together. Those. you need: two level sensors, one or two controllers (depending on the valve) and the valve itself.
   Basically, everything should work like this:
   When the minimum level is reached, the controller supplies power to the valve, and it opens. The tank is filling up. When the maximum level is reached, the power is either removed (the solenoid valve closes) or a command is given to close the valve (a second controller is needed). Actually - everything. The rest will be decided by flow automation at the well head.
   You can do all this with your own hands, if you have the skills and abilities. I would do everything myself except solenoid valve…

Hello. There was a problem with pressure.
Installed a 200 liter storage tank in the bath. to a height of 220 cm. From the well, water enters the storage tank. I connected the metal-plastic directly, I open the tap, the pressure is crazy. I connect the wiring to the taps, the bolter, the pressure drops on the machine. A well on clay, the water is not clean, it feels like milk has been added. Therefore, I installed a regular filter and a miracle happened, the water stopped flowing altogether 🙂 Question: please help with advice on what is better to install that would suck water out of this filter. A small low-noise station and which one (obligatory low-noise bath in the apartment) or a pump that boosts pressure? I don't think the pump will suck though. But maybe there is a way to fix this problem.
I’ll write right away so that you don’t rack your brains why it’s done this way. Apartment on the second floor. Through the first, the neighbors did not allow a pipe to be laid, they had to run a pipe underground with a slope to the house and then along the wall to the balcony and into the apartment. Water is collected and the rest from the pipe again flows into the well.

1. Hello Sergey.
   I don’t even know ... It’s not about the pump, and not even about the filter, but that it is present in the water a large number of clay suspension, which instantly clogs the filter. Put a pump more powerful or another in addition, the filter will clog even more, but just as quickly. I don't think this is a solution...
   I see two exits.
   1. You need to somehow try to clean the water in the well. Pump, clean the well or change its bottom filter, if any. Usually, "clay" wells and wells are one of the cleanest sources of water. Why is it different for you, it would be necessary to understand, find out and eliminate. It's expensive, but radical.
   2. Pump water into a container without filtration or with a very simple, coarse filter from a large suspension, and use it as a sump. At the same time, the exit and entrance to the tank must be appropriate in order to “disturb” the suspension at the bottom as little as possible and periodically drain it. And on the farm, use clean, settled water. For example, spread the water outlets along the height of the tank: one, below, for draining suspension, the second - above, for using water. Direct the water inlet to the wall of the container so that the jet of water breaks against it and does not muddy the already settled water.

Hello. Water is intended for the bath boler, typewriter, toilet faucet. I'll start with casing pipe. 300ka, 7.40 depth. I wanted to do 9 meters, but it didn’t work, I stood on granite. With a drill, granite stones were dug out the size of a fist. I had to stop at something. The water is actually clean, but if you take 50 liters, it will already be indignant. In a caisson centrifugal pump with injector. That's when he starts to suck it in and stirs it up, because the debit is three meters. 50 centimeters cut off from the suction pipe became cleaner. In short, I pour 4-5 buckets and it’s already in color, as if a little milk was added. He took a large glass, poured it and set it to stand. Two days later, a small, barely noticeable coating settles on the walls. I'm wondering how you can suck water out of the filter. In the filter, I will just change the cartridge more often.

The whole problem is that the pressure was gone even with an absolutely clean filter. So I ask for your help to decide what is better to take from this filter, which is after the storage tank, to suck out water and create normal pressure. If you put a small station in a van, then which of them are low-noise? Or increasing pressure if of course he copes with such a task.

1. Hello Sergey.
   The task is clear. But the fact is that the quietest pumps are circulation pumps. Their problem is low pressure. their pressure does not exceed 15 meters (usually up to 8). And if you put such a pump, then you need to put it between the tank and the filter, it doesn’t suck out well, but if you press it, it presses.
   Conventional automatic pressure boosting pumps are made on the basis of vortex pumps, which start to squeal unpleasantly when pressure is set. So you can't call them quiet.
   If you need a low-noise pump with a higher head than circulation pumps, then you need to look for a centrifugal pump with one or two wheels without a built-in ejector (not "self-priming"). However, as a rule, they are sold in stores with low pressure, but high performance. You also need to have both at the level you need. There are, but only on order via the Internet.
   If it is not possible to order, then you can buy from the most common ones: centrifugal with a built-in ejector (“self-priming”) with a low pressure (from 30 meters) and low productivity (from 35 liters / minute). At least their low hum isn't as annoying as the whine of vortex pumps.

Thanks for the answer. I didn't know that the cos was weaker. That is, it turns out that I need to put a multistage centrifugal pump between the tank and the filter with a flow of 30-35m. And please tell me what kind of automation to take, so that it would work when you open, for example, a tap and turn off when you close it.

Here I found a LEO ECHm 2-20 head of 17 meters.
or speroni rsm3 head 35 meters. Tell me which is better. Speroni stands in my caisson no complaints for half a year. And tell me what kind of automation do you need and do you need a hydraulic tank?

1. Hello Sergey.
   Sorry for the late reply, it's been a hectic weekend...
   Of the two pumps you found, I would take the Speroni. It is easier to organize automatic switch on, it gives a normal pressure sufficient to push through the filter. Because you, as I suspect, have little space in the bathroom, it is better to take automation without using a hydraulic tank, such as Press Control from Gileks or the like. A fairly simple float mechanism with a reed connection to the electronics, plus pressure adjustment and protection against dry running if the tank is empty.
   But you can, of course, take a simple RDM (pressure switch), but then it’s always with a hydraulic tank.
   If you take a pump with a lower pressure, then you need to take the automation "flow", and not by pressure, i.e. triggered by the presence or absence of a duct, such as Brio-2000 or 2000M. The only trouble with them is the false operation of protection against dry running, it often happens.

Hello. As they say, the farther into the forest, the thicker the partisans.
A 41m well was drilled on the site. Water drills, if you can call them that. They said that the well is good, about 3 cubic meters per hour. Recommended to put submersible pump 6 meters below the water mirror (at what level the mirror has not yet measured) type Aquarius BTsPE 0.5 - 40U (EURO-1 60/60). And I think I was thinking of putting the Aquarius pump BTsPE 0.32 - 40U and a 100l hydraulic accumulator for two people, mostly living, somewhere in your table I saw this 24l / min. consumption, and the pump produces 32l / min, if not mistaken) and watering the garden in the summer. Everything would be fine, but I saw in the recommendations for the accumulator that for such a volume of 100l. a pump with a power of at least 1.5 kW is required. On the site, the consultant said that he had heard about this for the first time and that a pump even at 680W would be suitable. I look forward to your advice. I wouldn’t want to overpay, although their price is almost the same, but wouldn’t a more powerful pump work jerkily with such a drawdown. I would like to maintain parity: so that the pump does not work “for days” and does not stand for “days”, and the well silts up.

1. Hello, Alexander.
   I don’t quite understand what the numbers mean in the name of the BTsPE pumps, because for some reason they are not connected with real characteristics. Maximum costs for BTsPE 0.32 - 3.0 m3 / h, for BTsPE 0.5 - 3.6 m3 / h, the pressures are the same - max. 60 meters. Although not, they are connected, but with nominal ones, i.e. recommended in operation: 0.5 l / s - 1.8 m3 / h, 0.32 l / s - 1.15 m3 / h, head - 40 meters. We figured out the characteristics, let's look at the hydraulic accumulator (GA).
   With GA, it's actually the other way around. Those. to a pump with a power of more than 1.5 kW, with the appropriate pressure and flow, it is recommended that a HA with a volume of at least 100 liters. So it is not surprising that the consultant from the site was surprised. HA is selected taking into account the flow rate of the pump, so that its volume is enough for one or two minutes of pump operation, no less. If the filling time of the HA is longer, as well as the time of its emptying into the system, then, for God's sake, this is even better.
   Let's go further...
   Will the BTsPE 0.32 pump be enough? Hard to say. You need to know the depth of the well and the desired final flow rate. But the difference between these pumps is so insignificant that with an appropriate piping system, you can save money. And whether the water will go in jerks or not, it does not depend on the pump (mainly) and not on the volume of the HA (also mainly), but on the settings of the system and automation (“mainly” means that with extremely improperly selected equipment – automation may not save).
   And the last thing… large-volume GA in the system will automatically allow you to maintain the “parity” you specified. The well, by the way, is silted up not from downtime, but from small and infrequent water consumption. If you take a little, but often, or rarely, but a lot, the well will not silt.

Thanks for the answer. In general, I took the BPTsEU pump 0.5-50 rated head 50m., Nominal flow 1.8 m3 / h, R-970W., rotational speed 2800 rpm, number of stages of the pumping part 12. While studying the characteristics of the pumps I found out that everyone spins at the same speed, but the more blades for water, the more powerful, in the sense that it pushes water higher. There is also a table of height and consumption in the passport. He lowered the pump into the well, "squished" about 16.5 - 17 m on the water mirror. Such an error, because he did everything alone. Then lowered the pump another 6m. After an hour of operation, the pump raised by 6m. and again he lowered it "squished" by about 19.8 m. It turned out that the dynamic level is lower by 2-3m. Everywhere they write that the level should not fall below 1m. Pipe 32, 57m long. not yet cut. It turns out that the pump is hanging in the well somewhere at 22 meters. After half an hour of work, clean water went. When selected in a liter jar, there is no longer any turbidity. The water runs briskly, but not like a fountain, but this is understandable. The question is, to leave the pump at this height or lower it lower and how much more to drive it to create a lens around the well. According to various sources from a day to a month. This is where so much water is pumped, not counting the cost of electricity.
Yes, the pump works for about an hour or two, then I turn it off for an hour and then turn it on again. This is how I flush the well. At night, of course, everyone slept. I think another day to torment and everything. At what depth should the pump be left? and I don’t want to lower it deeply, the pressure will drop and there is also a risk that the well will not have time to fill up, although it does not pump out 6m above itself in two hours.

1. Hello Alexander.
   Let's go back to order.
   The dynamic level depends on many quantities. Therefore, to assure that it must necessarily be below the static no more than one meter is stupidity. Well, you got 20 meters with this pump, and that's good. What happened, it happened, never mind. Leave the pump at this depth. Just in case. because there is also a seasonal change in the height of groundwater, and, accordingly, the flow rate of the well and everything else is possible.
   In my experience, pumping a well takes from a week to two months, especially advanced cases up to three or more months. The fact that you have clear water in half an hour is an indicator that the well will be pumped quickly.
   In reality, for your needs, including irrigation, you do not need as much water as you pump out when pumping a well. So stay at that depth. But at first, as well as in the off-season of the first year, it is advisable to pay attention to the flow rate and pressure given out by the pump, checking the water level in the well when they change.

V modern world no one is surprised by the autonomous water supply system. Such designs are practical and convenient, but their arrangement requires additional equipment.

What is it needed for?

In many cities, due to problems in the main water pipelines and pumping substations, water is supplied to residential buildings on schedule. Therefore, people have to store water in small containers - plastic bottles and buckets. Those who have the opportunity are offered a solution to this problem by installing a storage tank.

But this way will fix the problem within a short time, otherwise trouble-free operation can only be ensured expansion tank. There are a lot of similar devices on the market of household goods.

To choose the most suitable model, it is necessary to study all types of storage tank for water supply and know their principle of operation.

Also, the need to install a storage tank arises in the following conditions:

• when organizing an autonomous water supply, when, due to the low productivity of the well, it quickly becomes empty;
• when water is supplied by a pumping station, if there are frequent power outages.

Features and device

Storage tank supports required pressure in the water supply system. Most often, a membrane tank is suitable for these purposes. closed type. It comes in the form of a container with a rubber membrane inside. The membrane, in turn, divides the container into two parts, in one - airspace, and in the other - water.

The device for water supply is used in autonomous networks for supplying cold and hot water. In case of interruptions in water from the main source, the storage tank replenishes it from stocks. The tank is a hollow container, which is presented in various variations and volumes. The tank has inlet and outlet pipes, cleaning devices - filters, ventilation and technical revision. More expensive models have pumping systems.

The water level in the tank is controlled by built-in level gauges - electronic and float. The pumping station pumps liquid from one source to the storage tank. The liquid fills the tank to a certain level, after which the valve with the float is activated, which leads to the completion of the water intake process.

The pump motor fills the water chamber after starting. This reduces the air space. The less air left, the more the pressure will increase.

After exceeding a certain limit, automatic shutdown pump. It will turn on only when the pressure drops to the minimum value. In this case, the liquid will flow from the water compartment.

The pump turns on and off automatically. The pressure can be monitored by the built-in pressure gauge. It can be adjusted manually by selecting the optimal pressure range. The next stage is water purification and aeration, after which the water is sent to the water supply system when adjusting the water tap.

The storage tank simultaneously performs a number of functions:

• pressure stabilization when the pump is turned off;
• protection against hydraulic shocks due to air entering the water supply system or voltage drops;
• conservation of a certain amount of water;
• ensuring pump wear resistance.

The storage tank satisfies the demand for water from the liquid stored in the reserve. In this case, the pumping system may not be involved with low water consumption.

Varieties

Storage tanks are classified according to several criteria:

• container shape: round, cylindrical, rectangular, non-standard;
• design: open and closed;
• performance material: plastic, stainless steel, metal, polypropylene;
• internal capacity: 7, 20-30, 50 liters, as well as large containers for 80, 100, 200, 250, 500 liters;
• purpose: for hot water supply with electric water heaters, for cold water supply, for heating and irrigation systems;
• installation method: placement vertically and horizontally, indoors and underground, wall-mounted.

Purpose

The main purpose is the collection and storage of water and other food, technical non-aggressive liquids.

Shape and volume

When calculating the capacity of the storage tank, the following factors must be taken into account.

1. Consumption rate of the liquid: everyone consumes water in different ways, so specific values ​​\u200b\u200bare not recommended. For approximate calculations, you can take the average values.
2. Performance of the main water source. Much depends on the amount of liquid that comes from the source.

For underground storage tanks, a round or ribbed tank shape is a prerequisite.

materials

The storage tank is made of stainless steel or food grade plastic. The material must be of high quality, otherwise drinking water will contain various toxic chemical elements that are harmful to human health.

Mounting methods

Installation of the storage tank is carried out in stages:

• preparation of the base for a water tank;
• installation of a storage tank on the base;
• installation of a float valve;
• making holes for pipelines;
• insertion of shut-off valves;
• installation of an overflow pipe, which is discharged into the sewer and fixed to the walls of the tank;
• the attached tank is checked for leaks;
• tank insulation with polystyrene or mineral wool.

Let's consider in more detail design features tank.

1. The suction pipe must have a float valve. In the event that fluid is pumped from a well, a float switch is used.
2. In the event of a float failure, an overflow pipeline is cut below the suction pipe, which leads to the sewer system.
3. A filter element is installed on the suction. They are available in several types: mesh, centrifugal filter pumps and cyclones. A mesh filter is installed when pumping exceptionally clean water, while others are for dirty water. Mesh is recommended to be installed on the discharge line.
4. In tanks with opaque walls, level gauges are installed to determine the remaining volume of water.
5. Consideration must be given to ways to remove sediment. Underground tanks are cleaned through the top hatch. Top-mounted tanks provide drainage pipes, which cut into the bottom of the vessel.
6. The tank is filled with a shower head or watering can, which will avoid mixing clean water with sediment.
7. At the top of the tank, a ventilation duct or blowhole is provided. It is bent in such a way that the inlet pipe is located at the bottom. A mesh is installed at the inlet of the blowhole to prevent blockages from entering the tank.

Criterias of choice

If private house has several floors, you can install a storage tank in the attic. This will eliminate the need to install a pumping system. On the other hand, for better pressure, you will have to install the tank at a certain height. There is also the question of installing water heating equipment so that the liquid does not freeze in winter.

When choosing a tank for water supply, first of all, it is necessary to pay attention to its characterizing factors. When selecting a container of optimal capacity, the number of people who will consume water is taken into account. It is equally important to know the number of water intake areas in the apartment: showers, taps, household appliances. Also, one should not forget about the probability of using water at the same time by several consumers.

It is also necessary to pay attention to the maximum number of stop and start cycles per 60 minutes for the pump.

Water connection

Connection to the water supply network is carried out in several stages. When pumping liquid from a well or well, a pump is installed on the tank. Its appearance depends on the depth of the water source:

• less than 8 meters - surface;
• 9-20 meters - surface pump with an ejector;
• more than 20 meters - submersible.

A non-return valve is installed on the suction line of the pump. If the tank has a large capacity, boards are laid under it, on which the weight load of the tank will be distributed.

The installation of the float valve is as follows:

• the washer is put on the valve shank, then attached to the inlet;
• a plate, washer and nut are installed inside the shank;
• from the outside, an adapter is screwed to the shank, to which the discharge pipe is attached.

If the storage tank is installed at the top, then the work is completed after connecting to the sewer and water supply systems, as well as installing the water heater. With an underground installation option, it is necessary to connect a pumping system with a membrane-type accumulator. The pump system must be protected against dry running.

Important nuances

The storage tank is installed on a prepared concrete base, a metal frame made of profiled pipes. The base must support the weight of the container filled with liquid. The inlet pipe is made of any diameter, water is pumped under excess pressure. The diameter of the outlet pipe must be twice as large.

Installation of insulating material will only slow down the cooling of the water in the tank.

In order to prevent the liquid from freezing, during the installation of the storage tank, a heating system for pipes and the storage tank is used.

System diagrams

The scheme of the water supply system with an underground storage is used with a small debit of wells and wells or with a small volume of liquid. In this case, an intermediate plastic tank is mounted between the consumer and the liquid source. The capacity of the tank is in the range of 200-1000 liters depending on the water needs of the inhabitants. The average daily volume of water consumed per person is about 200 liters.

The tank is installed both inside the house and in the yard, in the soil. Underground installation has the following advantages:

• the possibility of using large-capacity tanks;
• does not take up a lot of space;
• does not require additional heating winter time of the year.

The underground tank should be ribbed, round, which ensures mechanical strength against soil pressure. A tank installed underground is difficult to flush. If the suction pipe is inside, then there will always be a small amount of liquid. This problem is solved by connecting the supply pipe through the tank wall. But at the same time it is necessary to install a mesh filter on the suction.

The scheme of a water supply system with an indoor storage tank looks much simpler than underground system plumbing. The tank, located inside the house, is easy to clean and wash. Additional water pressure can be provided by raising the tank to a certain height.

The tank must be provided with a valve for air suction, liquid drain into the sewer system and a backup drain pipeline into the sewer. An aerator is often installed on the equipment, and water enters through a watering can. This improves the quality of the liquid. Large gravel can also be placed in the tank. This will improve antimicrobial protection and water quality.

Centralized water supply

To connect storage equipment it is very important to have check valve at the entrance to the room. It will prevent the liquid from flowing back into the pipeline. With a top connection, the storage tank is installed in the attic or under the ceiling. It should have an upper pipe for supplying liquid, a little higher - a fitting for discharge into the sewer system, in the lower part - for water intake.

Water sources for summer cottages most often are wells.

Rarely - centralized water supply. if the cottage is located in a residential area.

If the pressure in them remains constant around the clock, there will be no problems with the supply of water to the country house - just connect the pump.

The source of life is water

Often, the conditions for water supply to summer cottages are far from ideal:

1. water is in the system not around the clock, but at certain hours;
2. there is a well on the territory, but its volume is not enough to meet all country needs;
3. water is supplied by an electric pump, but on the site, the lights are often turned off.

It is difficult to use water supply in such conditions:

• when water is needed in large quantities, it is not available (as),
• when there is no need for it, it runs like a stream.

To avoid such overlays and rationally use the water on the site, a storage tank is needed. It will act as a battery, storing water and filling the autonomous water supply network.

There are 2 ways to locate the accumulator in the water supply system of the dacha: upper and lower.

Installation of a hydraulic accumulator with a top location

In this case, the container is placed on the top floor of the country house or in the attic.

With this method of arranging the tank, water is supplied to the water supply points:

• kitchen faucet,
• bathroom,
• dishwasher ()
• washing machine, etc.
  - by gravity, without a pump.

Water towers operate in the same way.

The main advantage of such a system is energy independence - the water supply does not depend on the availability of electricity.

In addition, the top-mounted tank is convenient to maintain and easy to install by hand.

The relative disadvantage of such a system is the pressure limit. Since water is supplied without a pump, the pressure will decrease in proportion to the decrease in the floor.

A level difference of 10 m creates a difference of 1 atm.

Another disadvantage of this design is its bulkiness. The tank occupies a certain space, which can be adapted for storage or living room.

Therefore, some summer residents practice installing a hydraulic accumulator outside, on a metal overpass.

This is an exclusively summer solution, although when organizing the insulation and heating of the tank and pipelines, it is possible to use the system in winter.

Bottom storage tank

This option involves placing the tank in a pit dug in the ground.

It is sprinkled with a thick layer of soil, so this design does not spoil the landscape and allows you to make the most of the usable space (you can break a flower bed on top of the dug tank).

In this case, the dimensions of the tank are not limited by the size of the room, so you can choose a tank of any desired volume.

The downside of a system with a tank in the ground is the need to connect a pumping station to supply water to the house.

This is an order of magnitude more expensive than installing a tank in the attic. or overpass. In addition, a tank placed in the ground is difficult to maintain - for cleaning or repair, it is necessary to remove a layer of earth.

In regions with harsh winters, the soil above the tank needs to be insulated to minimize the effects of frost heaving on the plastic. If this is not done, the tank will crack with strong temperature changes.

The water tank is dug into the ground with a slight slope. This will ensure the accumulation of sediment masses on only one side, which will facilitate the maintenance of the system.

For underground installation, choose round tanks or with stiffeners to reduce ground pressure.

Tank selection

Laying and distributing pipes

Most often, metal-plastic and polypropylene pipes are used.

Their price, compared to metal ones, is low, they are easy to maintain () and are well suited for systems with a low level of pressure.

If the water supply of the cottage is needed only in the warm season, pipes can be laid directly on the surface of the soil.

With the onset of cold weather, the system is dismantled. The laying of pipes in the ground is practiced when arranging a permanent water supply.

Distribution of valves and drain valves

A float-type valve is installed on the storage tank, which allows you to automatically control the water level in it.

When the level drops to a critical level, the system automatically activates the pump, which pumps water from the source (pro deep pumps written for wells).

In order for the water supply system of the cottage to function smoothly, the following rules must be observed during its installation:

1. Temperature at the installation site of the tank, regardless of its location (outside or inside the house) should not fall below zero.
   Freezing of water in the system is fraught with deformation of the valves, and, as a result, failure of the entire system.
2. In the pipe section from the pumping station to the storage tank, the resistance should be minimal.
   To do this, a pipe with a diameter larger than the main wiring is installed in the desired area.
3. The volume of water in the well or well must exceed the maximum capacity of the tank.
   Otherwise, the pump (how to connect to increase the water pressure is written in the article) will run idle, which will affect its performance.

Hot water supply in the country

When arranging a water supply system with a hydraulic accumulator, it will not be difficult to provide a country house with warm water.

If the electrical wiring is relatively fresh and can withstand a load of up to 6 kW, it can be installed near the main points of water consumption (on a shower for a summer residence).

Such devices quickly cope with heating water from a tap in the kitchen or in the shower, but are very voracious in terms of energy consumption.

If you want to save or post in country house not designed for heavy loads, it is better to install a storage type water heater.

It heats a large amount of water at a time, distributing it to all points of water consumption.

We invite you to watch a video on installing a storage tank in a city apartment.