Thermal insulation of the bath ceiling with mineral wool is a rational solution. Insulation of the ceiling in the bath from the inside: how and with what to properly insulate with your own hands Insulation of the ceiling in the attic of the bath

The question of how to insulate the ceiling in the bath is of interest to those who like to take a steam bath, but how to keep the steam and temperature in the steam room so that the heat does not go through the walls and the ceiling will be found below. In the meantime, let's talk about the physics of heat.

There is such a thing as heat transfer. A cup of hot coffee cools down in contact with environment; although air is a poor conductor of heat, the temperature of the coffee decreases until equilibrium is reached - the law of thermodynamics.

Below room temperature, the coffee will not cool down. How to do it quickly? Accelerate heat transfer! Pour coffee into a metal mug. Metal has a higher thermal conductivity than porcelain. And in the very process of transfusion, the liquid is in direct contact with the air and gives it heat energy.

Convection- heat transfer due to the movement of a liquid or gas. When bathing in a bath, you pour water on hot stones, the water evaporates and conveys a hot feeling to those in the bath.

What happens to the temperature in the steam room? A significant drop in temperature will not occur, a bucket of water will not be able to take heat from the stones. But saturated water vapor has a density higher than dry, which will take the upper position (that's why it's hot on the top shelf), the air will cool down the longer, the less heat transfer from the walls and ceiling of the steam room.

radiant heat, emitted as infrared radiation directly from the stove, differs from the other two methods because no medium is needed to transfer heat between two separate objects.

The ideal protection against these forms of heat transfer is thermos. In fact, this is a bottle in a bottle, between which the space is divided by vacuum and reflecting radiant waves, a silver screen - a mirror.

The most vulnerable point of heat loss in this device is the cork. In the case of a bathhouse, this is ceiling and walls. Their heat transfer depends on the material from which they are made, the ability to retain heat in the bath.

It is necessary to create a barrier against heat loss with the help of thermal insulation, as in a thermos. To protect the material from moisture, there is vapor barrier films. There are two ways to insulate the ceiling: from inside the bath and outside. The choice of material depends on which side of the ceiling or wall the bath is insulated from.

The best way to insulate the bath ceiling is external insulation from the attic. Here are the pluses:

• There is no loss of space in the bathhouse, dressing room, rest room, shower room, and others;
• Larger selection of insulating materials;
• The requirements for environmental safety and moisture resistance are not as strict as inside the bath;
• Installation is simplified, it is convenient to lay the vapor barrier film and insulation.

How to insulate the ceiling in the bath from the outside?

The options are countless. If the attic floor is made of OSP boards, then they are laid vapor barrier film, and from above they insulate the ceiling of the bath basalt wool. They are laid in two layers to cover the joints, then they are covered with a vapor barrier film on top, lumber trimmings are placed on it and that's it, if the attic is not used.

Even easier the old fashioned way: ceiling insulation with sawdust and clay. Our ancestors added clay so that mice would not settle in sawdust.

Bath ceiling insulation expanded clay do this: a reinforced plastic film is placed on the substrate, then expanded clay is poured on top. In general, they always tried to get by with local materials for insulation, slag was also covered in attics, pre-screened through a large mesh and obtained an excellent insulating material. But now more often they make floors and use the attic for household needs, a kind of attic where you can work and relax.

Special requirement for the arrangement and insulation of the roof. The floors are arranged as follows: a vapor barrier film is laid on the draft floor, logs are fixed from a cut board 20 x 100 or 40 x100 mm, insulation is placed between the logs. Instead of basalt wool, it is better to insulate mineral wool "Eco", then they sew chipboard, plywood, OSP on top - they make the floor.

The construction market is replete with thermal insulation materials. Choose a heater for the ceiling in the bath which is better suited to the inside, and which to external installation not so easy. When choosing, be guided not only by the brand, but also material specifications. Not the last role is played by the combustibility class of the material, its characteristics of thermal conductivity, density, environmental friendliness, ease of installation and transportation.

Inside, the bath is insulated if it is made of a heat-conducting material: brick, concrete plates, thin boards. Do-it-yourself ceiling insulation in a mineral wool bath can be done by someone who knows how to use building level and has the skills to work. A vapor barrier is attached to the wall and ceiling, a crate is made of timber. First, the beam is vertically screwed with self-tapping screws to the wall. Racks are made with a distance of 60 cm around the entire perimeter. Then the same design is done on the ceiling.

Advice. Before laying mineral wool between the bars, make holes in the ceiling: 1- for arranging ventilation (in the far corner from the door), 2- for an insulating box chimney.

Let's see how to do it below. The transverse dimensions of the beam depend on the type of heat-insulating material laid between them. Mineral wool is sold in rolls. Before installation, you need to cut the roll in half, you get a strip of 60 cm. Wait for the strip to take its shape. When unfolded, it will swell from the air that fills the pores. Fasten between the rails, as in the image. Choose environmentally friendly materials.

Then additional insulation the ceiling of the bath with foil having a dense paper base, which plays the role of a heat insulator; the mirror part reflects radiant energy, retaining heat. They begin to fasten the rolled foil from the floor to the ceiling with paper clips to the bars with an overlap of 5-10 cm, the seam is glued with adhesive foil tape.

Advice. Choose material good quality. Require a safety compliance certificate. Not all materials are suitable for warming the bath from the inside. Follow the rules for arranging chimneys. 90% of fires in stove baths occur due to improper cutting of the chimney passage through the ceiling, attic floor and roof.

The isolation of the budget option is considered. There are other materials that are more expensive, but effective in terms of their thermal insulation qualities, as they have 3 protection barriers: waterproofing, vapor barrier, thermal insulation.

How to insulate the ceiling in the bath with your own hands: a step by step guide

Installation of thermal insulation with SPU Sauna-Satu panels does not require preparation. Now that you know how to insulate the ceiling in a mineral wool bath, make exactly the same crate for the panels if the walls are crooked.

Panel sizes: 1, 2 x 0.6 x 0.03 m and 2.4 x 0.6 x 0.03 m have the same width as the standard roll insulation. wooden surfaces in the bath, before installing the panels, it is recommended to impregnate antiseptic solution.

SPU Sauna-Satu panels have tongue and groove connection. In the Scandinavian countries, these plates are used for warming saunas, including with the use of steam. Special sealing foam seals the joints, the panels can be installed both horizontally and vertically. Installation instructions:

1. Prepare: knife, fasteners, sealing foam and aluminum tape.

2. Before installing the first board, cut the tenon along the entire length of the board.

3. The first panel is placed on the floor with the cut side and applied to the wall. Before installation, a sealant is applied at the docking site.

4. The panel is pressed tightly against the seal, holes are drilled and umbrellas are hammered in the fasteners. Fasteners, tape, sealant - everything is included in the kit. Ask sellers.

5. Panels fit easily into the groove. Each joint is coated with a sealant. Apply to panel ribs prior to installation.

6. Then the panels are attached to the ceiling beams, the corners are sealed, the excess foam is carefully cut off, and all joints are additionally glued with tape.

7. Below, if you intend to do a floor screed, remove the top layer 10-15 cm from the floor around the entire perimeter from the panel and make waterproofing in the baseboard where the wall joins the floor. Apply several layers of waterproofing paste with a brush, stick the waterproofing tape and apply the paste again. Then they make a crate for lining with clapboard.

8. Finishing with clapboard.

Ceiling insulation provides for cutting under an insulating box through which the pipe will pass. Here's what the factory box looks like.

The thermodynamic processes that take place in the bath during heating and the adoption of procedures should remain inside the system (steam room) as long as possible, and this is possible only with proper thermal insulation of the ceiling, walls, section of the ceiling in the place of the pipe, doors.

Useful video

The benefits from the correct selection of materials and installation of thermal insulation are obvious - the speed of warming up the bath, fuel economy, and most importantly - the pleasure and health that you will experience in the process of bath procedures. Be careful. Do not make a mistake in choosing materials, contact those who perform these works in a complex way: thermal, sound and waterproofing, installation of ventilation systems, and other works.

Own bath is a great place where it is so pleasant to take a steam bath in the cold. In order to quickly heat up and keep the heated air in the bath, you need to qualitatively insulate all its surfaces. Particular attention should be paid to the ceiling, because according to the laws of physics, warm air masses rise up.

Conditions of high temperatures and humidity impose special requirements on the choice of insulation. When carrying out thermal insulation with your own hands, you must also consider what design the ceiling has. Depending on this, it can be insulated from the inside or outside.

Bath ceiling design

In do-it-yourself baths, an attic or attic is usually located on top. This provides additional air space and makes the room warmer. However, in order to keep the heat in the steam room, this will not be enough. The ceiling of the bath should be insulated additionally.

This is most conveniently done from inside the attic or attic. Insulating material is arranged taking into account fire safety requirements. It is especially important to properly close the junction with the chimney.

The distance between the pipe and the insulation must be at least 20 cm. To do this, a box of boards is built around it, and from the inside it is filled with fire-resistant material, such as expanded clay or mineral wool.

Access to the ceiling of the bath from above through the attic provides an opportunity to insulate it in various ways using traditional natural materials or modern heaters. If there is no attic, thermal insulation is laid from the inside of the bath.

1. The beams are hemmed with ceiling boards.
2. A layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of them (preferably foil).
3. The space between the beams is filled with insulation: mineral wool, expanded clay, clay with sawdust. You can use other materials.
4. The insulation is covered with a waterproofing film.
5. If they walk on the floor of the attic, a flooring is made of boards, under which there should be a ventilation gap.

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside

If there is no attic space above the bath, you can carry out the insulation with your own hands from the inside. For this, basalt wool is used. It is important to ensure that the insulation is protected from moisture penetration.

Advice! For the interior lining of the steam room, wood with a low density is chosen. Boards made of alder, linden, cedar or aspen not only create a pleasant aroma, but also provide good thermal insulation. Pine also smells good, but tends to stick.

Properly carried out insulation of the bath will provide faster heating and will allow more economical use of firewood or electricity for heating. Thermal insulation can be placed from the inside or from the side of the attic. When building a bath with your own hands, it is better to take care of high-quality insulation in advance.

The operating conditions of the bath are different from those that most buildings have to face. Therefore, the issue of high-quality vapor and thermal insulation should be given special attention. Consider how to insulate the ceiling, floor, walls in the bath and what technology to prefer in order to create a suitable microclimate and minimize heat loss, saving your own efforts and resources.

A bath is a room that is subjected to periodic heating in order to take wellness procedures. Inside the room, a special microclimate is formed, characterized by high temperature and humidity. Of course, this cannot but have an impact on those building materials that have to be exposed to such an impact.

In addition, one has to take into account the costs associated with the use of a particular amount of fuel. If the building is prone to rapid cooling, it will take a large number of fuel. And given the fact that, according to the laws of physics, warm air is lighter than cold air, it is the roof of the bathhouse that requires insulation, through which a significant loss of heat occurs.

But on the way to building a barrier to keep warm air indoors, there is another aspect that all bath owners should pay special attention to. High humidity becomes a source of a large amount of condensate, which, when improper insulation roofs may accumulate. Often this causes the destruction of the wooden elements of the structure.

Interesting fact! High humidity is a favorable environment for the growth and development of various microorganisms: fungi, mold and bacteria. Ill-conceived steam and thermal insulation can cause their appearance and reproduction.

Insulation of the ceiling in a bath with a cold roof, depending on the characteristics of the roof

The bath roof can be represented by one of two types: having attic space and without it. In the first case, the layer of air itself creates a fairly effective barrier, which has a positive effect on the building's ability to retain heat. But this does not mean at all that the presence of an attic completely eliminates the need for insulation work.

If the bathhouse does not provide for an attic or attic, then high-quality thermal insulation is an almost indispensable condition. further use buildings for the purpose.

Regardless of what type of room you have to deal with, the first and extremely important step is to provide a vapor barrier layer. These are perfect for this available materials, like aluminum foil, high-density cardboard, which is pre-impregnated with drying oil or wax paper.

Before laying the heat-insulating layer, it is worth taking care of a reliable vapor barrier of the roof

Useful advice! If work is being done to insulate the ceiling in the bathhouse, where there is an attic room, then it is recommended to cover the ceiling boards from the side of the roof with a layer of clay of about 2-3 cm.

How to insulate the ceiling in the bath: the best thermal insulation materials

In the process of kindling the bath, the temperature and humidity in the room reaches extremely high levels. Therefore, special requirements are imposed on the building materials that are used in the process of arranging this room, namely, they must be resistant to such effects and at the same time not emit hazardous substances when heated.

In addition, it is not recommended that the weight of the insulation be too large. It is preferable to opt for a lightweight material that is simple and convenient both in transportation and installation. And of course, we must not forget about such a characteristic as fire resistance, which is important for such a room as a bath.

DIY bath ceiling insulation: advantages and disadvantages of mineral wool

Mineral wool is by far the most popular option among all. It is often used for warming not only baths and garages, but also for residential buildings. By itself, it is a fibrous material that has excellent thermal insulation characteristics and can be presented in one of three types:

• glass wool;
• stone wool;
• slag wool.

But if the first option is familiar to almost everyone, then the other two were not seen by everyone. Stone wool is a material derived primarily from basalt, although it is sometimes made from other rock melts. Slag wool is very similar to cinder blocks, for the production of which blast-furnace slags are used.

In addition to the fact that mineral wool has a low thermal conductivity, which allows it to be used for thermal insulation of ceilings and walls, it has another significant advantage. Unlike other materials, it cannot serve as a breeding ground for microorganisms: fungi, mold, small insects or rodents, which is very useful for summer cottages.

As for other characteristics, mineral wool is not prone to fire and does not react in any way to temperature changes: it does not deform or shrink. Light weight and convenient packaging (usually in the form of rolls or rectangular plates) make it easy and convenient to work with the material even alone.

Of course, this material also has disadvantages, which one way or another will have to be reckoned with:

• mineral wool is able to absorb moisture;
• it contains phenols, which can potentially pose a risk to human health.

Both of these shortcomings can be neutralized during the installation process, providing the insulation with high-quality vapor and waterproofing, completely eliminating the risk of mineral wool contact with air under the ceiling. This is especially true for warm and humid air, which is concentrated indoors.

Useful advice! Despite the fact that, subject to all the installation rules, mineral wool does not pose a real threat to health, during its installation it is necessary to be careful and use protective equipment, since its small fibers can cause irritation of the skin and eyes.

Insulation of the ceiling in the bath with expanded clay: features of use

Expanded clay is small pebbles, which consist of clay and have a porous structure. If all factors are taken into account, then expanded clay can be called the most suitable material for insulating the ceiling in the bath. Of course, if the building provides attic space and there is the possibility of using it.

The advantages of this choice can be confidently attributed to the following aspects:

• expanded clay is completely safe: it does not support combustion, it is environmentally friendly and even in the event of a fire it will not emit hazardous substances into the atmosphere;
• over time, as well as under the influence of external factors, expanded clay does not deteriorate and does not decompose;
• the cost of the material is quite low;
• bacteria and fungi do not consider expanded clay an attractive environment for life.

In addition, expanded clay is superior to mineral wool in the ability not to absorb moisture. And although the need to equip vapor and waterproofing layers remains, the risk of moisture accumulation inside the insulation layer is much less. It should also be noted that the operational life of expanded clay is one of the longest when compared with other materials.

Is it worth it to insulate the ceiling from the inside with foam

At a certain period, foam plastic was the leader among heat-insulating materials that were used to insulate not only baths, but also residential buildings. But with the advent of alternative options, its significant shortcomings became noticeable. So, for example, in the event of a fire, foam plastic burns well, while also releasing toxic smoke that can harm human health.

In addition, the foam is not very resistant to external factors, collapsing under the influence of high temperatures, which is inevitable if it is used in a bath.

For these reasons, we can conclude that the foam is far from the most suitable material for this purpose, it is better to give preference to another material that is more stable and suitable in terms of characteristics.

Using ecowool as a heater for a bath

Another material that is popular among heaters and is often used, including for baths and garages, is ecowool. This fibrous material is made from cellulose, adding special impurities to it, designed to provide protection against insects, bacteria and rodents. In addition, they make ecowool resistant to ignition.

Related article:

Video review of the technology for creating a bath with your own hands, the main stages of building a building, requirements and tips. Common types of baths.

The advantages of this material include environmental friendliness, as well as low weight and the ability to fill even the smallest cracks and gaps, which is very convenient when it comes to working with not too flat surface. It does not emit any toxic substances, so, like expanded clay, it is completely safe for human health.

But there is also a significant drawback: the efficiency of using ecowool is directly related to the presence of ventilation, as well as a high-quality waterproofing layer, which is designed to remove moisture. This is due to the fact that ecowool itself is very prone to absorbing condensate, which negatively affects its thermal insulation characteristics.

There are two ways to apply this heat insulator to the walls, the so-called "dry" and "wet". The main difference and at the same time the complexity of the second option is the need to use special equipment for this, the rental of which will cause rather high prices for ceiling insulation in this way.

Warming the bath inside with a mixture of cement and sawdust

This method can certainly be called the oldest among all those described, since these materials were used for insulation long before such heat-insulating materials as polystyrene and mineral wool appeared on the market.

Interesting fact! Usually, cement and sawdust are used to create a suitable mixture. Although it is quite acceptable to replace these components with clay and straw.

First of all, a dry mixture is prepared, which includes sawdust, lime and cement in a ratio of 10/1/1, respectively. After mixing all the dry ingredients, 1.5 parts of water are added to them, pouring it in gradually and mixing thoroughly so that the solution is homogeneous. After that, it remains only to lay the mixture on the surface and level it to an even layer.

In case of compliance with all recommendations and technologies, as a result, you can get high-quality, environmentally friendly material. Although we have to admit that in terms of thermal insulation characteristics, it is still inferior to both mineral wool and even expanded clay. So, perhaps, its only advantage is its low cost, which, nevertheless, entails quite a lot of trouble.

Features of the arrangement of vapor barrier and waterproofing layers

The presence of a vapor barrier layer is not a whim, but a real necessity. Especially when it comes to rooms such as a bathhouse, where hot air is an integral part of the use of the room for its intended purpose. Rising in the form of steam, moisture can have a devastating effect on the insulation and contribute to the occurrence of mold and fungus on the wooden elements of the bath frame.

In order to avoid problems that may arise from the accumulation of moisture on the ceiling and walls, special films and coating materials are used, such as anti-condensation membranes. When choosing a suitable material, it is advisable to purchase one that has a foil layer.

Useful advice! In the process of installing a vapor barrier film, it is very important to pay attention to its integrity. It is necessary to prevent the appearance of gaps, as this will greatly affect technical specifications coatings.

To ensure waterproofing, special films are used, which can be purchased at hardware stores. Sometimes the most ordinary polyethylene of sufficient density or cheap roofing material is used.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a floor ceiling: step by step instructions

A deck ceiling is a great option for buildings that are used seasonally and have a small area. But in this design there is not a lot of space for bulk insulation. Moreover, big weight such a ceiling is also not able to withstand. Therefore, the choice of material should be approached more responsibly.

In order to have enough space for laying the insulation, the deck ceiling should be placed slightly lower than the height of the walls. And after that, you can proceed to the phased work according to the following instructions:

1. First of all, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier layer from the side of the attic. In this case, the side on which the foil is located should be facing down. The material is laid with an overlap of about 10-15 cm, and in order to ensure tightness, it is also necessary to glue the joints with adhesive tape.
2. The selected thermal insulation material is laid on top. In this case, mineral wool or expanded clay is best suited, since the floor ceiling is not designed for heavy loads.
3. A layer of waterproofing material is placed on top, which is suitable for roofing felt or plastic film. Laying must be overlapped, and the seams are carefully glued with adhesive tape.
4. The final layer should consist of sheets of plywood or boards that will become reliable protection for previous layers.

This is a simple method that is relevant if you do not plan to spend too much money and time on it. If the bath area is large enough or you need to use a place under the roof for storage, then this option will not be very suitable because of its fragility. In this case, it is better to give preference to a false ceiling.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a false ceiling: step by step instructions

Design false ceiling provides for fastening to the upper part of the wall not the flooring itself, but the support beams, for which they are most often used wooden beam or several boards spliced ​​together. Above and below, a ceiling is attached to the beams, which simultaneously serves as the floor of the attic. Well, in the middle between the upper and lower layers, a layer of heat-insulating material is laid, as well as hydro and vapor barriers.

The installation process may differ slightly depending on which insulation was chosen, however, in general, the technology is preserved. In the case of using mineral wool for this purpose, the procedure is as follows:

• the first layer of waterproofing material is laid, which is attached to the upper surface of the beams with furniture stapler. As in all other cases, overlaps must be at least 10 cm, and the joints are additionally glued;

• boards or plywood are laid on top of the waterproofing, thus providing the structure with strength and reliability;
• mineral wool of suitable thickness is laid in the gaps between the beams based on the following standards: 150-180 mm for regions with a temperate climate, 200-250 mm for regions that are characterized by very coldy. As with waterproofing material, the connection of two separate parts of the material must be overlapped;
• the vapor barrier film is attached to the floor beams from the underside. At the same time, it is highly recommended that its edges are attached to the top of the walls. Since this is a very delicate material, it is important to work with it carefully, avoiding damage and tears;
• perpendicular to the beams, wooden slats are attached over the vapor barrier material;
• the final stage is the fastening of the lining with self-tapping screws or nails to these rails.

Such an insulated ceiling is very durable and able to withstand heavy loads, so that the attic space can be used to equip the attic or as storage for various accessories.

Warming the ceiling of a bathhouse without an attic with your own hands: the nuances of work

The technology of warming a wooden or panel bath, in the case of the complete absence of an attic space, has some differences from those that were considered earlier. In this case, it is necessary to fix the vapor barrier material, and then attach the insulation itself. Already on it, the beam beam and the final layer - the ceiling boards - are fastened.

Particular attention should be paid to the junction of the insulation and the pipe. First of all, it is necessary to ensure compliance with fire safety standards. The distance provided for by the rules must be at least 200 mm. Naturally, it is impossible to simply leave a hole, and therefore a simple box is mounted, consisting of rafter legs. Its main role is the separation of insulation and pipes.

Useful advice! The inside of the box can also be filled with heat-insulating material. True, it must be fire-resistant and not succumb to high temperatures. For example, stone wool is suitable for this.

Another important task facing the owner involved in warming the ceiling of a bath without an attic is the complete elimination of the risk of condensation. Therefore, all vapor and waterproofing materials must be of high quality and fastened in strict accordance with the rules and regulations.

2 options for floor insulation in the bath with your own hands: instructions for use

Of course, when carrying out work on the insulation of a brick bath or a wooden building, laying heat-insulating material only on the ceiling will not be enough. Therefore, it is worth taking care that the room has a warm floor. Consider how the work is carried out depending on what materials you have to deal with.

Option 1. Warming the wooden floor in the bath

In order to make the floor in the bath warmer and reduce heat loss, the same materials are used as in the case of ceiling installation. Often, the method of warming the floor in the bath with expanded clay, mineral wool, ecowool is used.

Useful advice! One of the most effective ways to keep the heat in the room is to install a bath on screw piles. Floor insulation in this case will not be required so urgently due to the presence of an additional air cushion under the building.

The insulation procedure begins with the dismantling of all elements that may interfere with the work. Skirting boards and floorboards are removed. After that, all remaining wooden elements carefully inspected and checked for damage. If they are found, the damaged elements are replaced with new ones. Be sure to carry out the treatment with antiseptics, which will protect against rodents, insects and fungi.

Using small bars, the lower edges of the log are built up to create a reliable support for the rough coating. Using cheap lumber, a rough coating is mounted, leaving gaps of about a centimeter between the lags and boards. The subfloor boards should not be laid too tightly, as when the air humidity rises, the wood tends to expand, which can lead to deformation of the coating if the laying is too dense.

A vapor barrier layer is required, especially if ground levels located close to the surface. The vapor barrier must cover the entire surface, including the logs. If groundwater is high, then glassine or roofing material is best suited, and for a low level ground water- vapor barrier membrane.

The fastening of the material for vapor barrier must be carried out in such a way that it also captures the lower edges of the wall, by about 15 cm. It is most convenient to fasten the material to the logs using construction stapler, gluing each joint with tape.

The heat insulator is laid between the lags in such a way that approximately 2 cm of air cushion remains on top. This will provide natural ventilation.

Useful advice! If the thickness of the heat insulator is so large that it is impossible to leave free space, then a crate can be placed on top of the material in increments of about 40 cm.

To eliminate the risk of moisture ingress, another waterproofing layer is placed on top. It is most preferable to use a membrane material for this purpose. If there is a need to install a crate, then the membrane must be laid under it. Finally, floorboards and skirting boards are attached. All protruding edges of materials are trimmed.

Option 2. Description of the technology for insulating the concrete floor with polystyrene foam

The procedure for warming the concrete floor in the bath is carried out somewhat differently. You need to do this after completing the draft work:

1. A layer of waterproofing material is laid on top of the rough screed. Unlike a wooden floor, in this case, the use of ordinary high-strength polyethylene is allowed. At the same time, the approach to the walls must be at least 5 cm. The material is laid on the surface, and the excess is cut off. If the polyethylene was originally in a roll, its parts must be overlapped by 10 cm, sealing the joints with adhesive tape.
2. After that, heat-insulating material is laid. Expanded polystyrene is best suited for this, since it has all the characteristics necessary for this. To attach the sheets to the surface, you can use special glue and screws, and in some cases make a crate.
3. A reinforcing mesh is laid on top and another screed is made, the thickness of which must be at least 2 cm.
4. When the reinforcing screed is completely dry, you can start leveling the floor. For this, special self-leveling compounds are commercially available. It is only important that its layer is at least 5-8 cm above the level of insulation.

Useful advice! In the process of pouring, be sure to level the mixture with a needle roller. This will get rid of excess air bubbles and make the coating as even and smooth as possible.

Insulation of the bath outside and inside: features of thermal insulation of walls

The first thing you should pay attention to when planning the work on warming the walls of the bath - from the inside or outside, you want to place a heat-insulating layer. Both options are acceptable, however, the first one is used extremely rarely for a number of reasons:

• insulation from the inside of garages, baths and modest houses is an irrational use of the small space that is available. Obviously, laying all the necessary layers will reduce the room, which in some cases is not ergonomic;
• the humidity in the bath is so high that even if all the necessary conditions are met and the installation of vapor and heat-insulating layers, it is almost impossible to guarantee that the heat insulator will not be exposed to moisture sooner or later;
• warming the walls in the bath from the inside with your own hands allows you to keep warm inside the room, but is not able to protect the walls from freezing from the outside. This temperature difference often adversely affects the condition of the building.

Consider the features of wall insulation, depending on the material that was used to build the building.

Features of insulation in a wooden bath: a steam room from a log house

At first glance, it may seem that log buildings do not need much thermal insulation, since the wall looks quite airtight, and the wood does a good job of keeping warm. But in fact, the problem lies in the fact that the timber is highly susceptible to shrinkage and cracks form over time. They are the main sources of cold.

Most effective method close up the gaps that are formed - lay out the insulation between the logs at the construction stage. Then, with the help of a hammer and caulking, all the remaining, even the smallest cracks, are clogged and treated with a sealant.

Interesting fact! To this day, fans of environmentally friendly materials continue to use plants such as moss or cuckoo flax to fill gaps in the walls.

Thermal insulation occurs even at the construction stage, when interventional insulation is laid between the logs

Do-it-yourself warming of the bath from the inside: brick, block and frame buildings

Perhaps one of the most time-consuming processes is the insulation from the inside of a bath of expanded clay concrete blocks, bricks or other materials to which it is not so easy to fasten, and you also have to carefully choose the material, taking into account its weight and size.

For example, if we are talking about insulation frame structure, which is not able to withstand serious loads, it is simply impossible to do without careful preliminary calculations. As an expensive, but ideal option for this purpose, spraying can be considered. This method can be used both for insulating a foam block bath from the inside, and for buildings made of almost any material.

In some cases, extruded polystyrene foam boards are used. For internal insulation it's not too much suitable option, since it takes up a significant amount of space, but for the outer skin best solution can not found.

Useful advice! Insulation by spraying polyurethane foam must be carried out by professionals and in compliance with all technological requirements and standards. Also, the availability of high-quality specialized equipment is required.

Insulation of a block brick bath inside: video instruction

There are many different ways to insulate the floor, ceiling and walls of the bath, using various materials and technology. You can learn more about one of these methods by reading detailed video instructions for warming brick wall from within. In addition, this technology can be used not only for baths. According to this instruction, you can also carry out the insulation of the garage from the inside with your own hands.

Any bath needs high-quality insulation of the ceiling, since warm air easily leaves the room if there are no obstacles in front of it. Fortunately, today in stores you can find a variety of heaters at different prices - choosing the best option is not difficult.

Today we will take a closer look at the process of insulating the ceiling in the bath.

Peculiarities

V good insulation need not only residential buildings, but also baths. If we neglect the installation of heat-insulating material, in such a structure will not be preserved comfortable temperature. Warm air, so necessary in a bath, will simply leave the room. However, the problem of leaving warm air is not the main one. Also, without insulation on the ceiling in the bath, harmful condensate will accumulate. Because of it, unpleasant drops will drip onto people from above, which can be very annoying.

The moisture leaving along with the heat will negatively affect the ceilings. Under the influence of such external factors, the structures are at risk of rotting and deforming. Further renovation of the bath will require free time and money.

Today, there are a large number of manufacturers producing high-quality thermal insulation materials on the market. Thanks to this, each consumer will be able to choose suitable heaters.

Warming the ceiling in the bath is quite possible to do it yourself. To do this, you do not need to be an experienced master or have the appropriate education. The main thing in this case is to strictly follow the instructions and use only high-quality materials.

To insulate the ceiling in the bath, you need to use materials that have the following important characteristics:

• they must be resistant to fire and not support a flame;
• the insulation must be environmentally friendly and absolutely safe for human health;
• the material must be resistant to dampness and moisture, which are inevitable in a bath.

Fortunately, in modern retail outlets it is quite easy to find materials that meet all of these requirements. The bath may have a ceiling with or without an attic space. In both cases, the building will need reliable insulation. The only difference is that in the absence of an attic space, you will not have many ways to lay heat-insulating material.

It is also worth considering another important feature - if your bath is built of wood, it will need literally perfect roof insulation. Making mistakes in this case is fatal. This can lead to decay and deformation of floor structures.

Of course, you can coat the wood with special moisture-proof and anti-fungal impregnations to extend the life of the material and insure yourself in case of improper installation of the insulation. However, such means are not omnipotent. Even if you apply them to ceiling structures, under permanent action a couple they will fail and the bath will have to be repaired.

Experts say that if you follow all the technologies for installing heat-insulating materials, you can avoid serious mistakes. The main thing is not to neglect any of the necessary stages of work. In this case, the result will not disappoint you.

Material selection criteria

A suitable insulation for a Russian bath should be chosen according to the following important criteria:

• Possibility to combine with others building materials. The thermal insulation coating must be combined with other materials without in any way affecting their specific qualities.
• Non-susceptibility to accumulation of condensate. Insulating material should in no case accumulate excess moisture in its structure - this will necessarily negatively affect the ceiling structure, especially if it is made of wood.
• Minimum moisture absorption. When choosing a heater, pay attention to the fact that it has a minimum water absorption value.
• Certificates of quality and safety. When buying insulation for a cold roof in a bath, you must ask the seller for all the necessary quality certificates. The material must meet sanitary and hygienic and fire safety requirements.

If the material you have chosen for the thermal insulation of the bath fits all of the above criteria, then inside the steam room and dressing room it will be not only warm and cozy, but also safe.

materials

Today, the market is replete with thermal insulation materials. They are made from different raw materials and have their own distinctive qualities. Let's take a closer look at the most popular and sought-after heaters that are in demand among most homeowners.

mineral wool

Most often, people choose good old mineral wool as a bath heater. Despite the fact that there are a lot of good alternatives to this material on the market, many users continue to buy it.

This insulation is sold in rolls, plates and cylinders. For insulation of the roof and ceiling, rolled materials or slabs are most often chosen.. They fit easily and quickly. Mineral wool in cylinders is usually used to insulate pipeline bases.

Let's get acquainted with the main advantages of mineral wool, making it popular:

• This material is characterized by high thermal insulation, which is especially important for a bath. It can be installed in almost any environment. However, it should be borne in mind that other insulators will be required during its installation.
• Mineral wool is a waterproof material. High-quality glass and basalt wool contribute to the passage of steam and do not absorb excess moisture. Due to this quality, mineral wool can be safely used to protect structures from the appearance of dampness.
• Mineral wool has good air exchange. Such a heater will promote air circulation. The base will "breathe" and will last much longer.

• Also, this heat-insulating material boasts good sound-proofing qualities. Being in a bath insulated with such a coating, you will not be distracted by extraneous sounds coming from the street.
• Minvata is not afraid of aggressive chemicals. It is not destroyed by acids and alkalis.
• Mineral wool is a fire-resistant material, which is very important for a bath. Moreover, in contact with fire, this insulation does not emit acrid smoke.
• Such material has a long service life. High-quality mineral wool can last from 25 to 50 years.
• Many consumers choose mineral wool, as it is environmentally friendly.

However, this material also has some disadvantages:

• The quality of mineral wool suffers significantly if it absorbs too much water. Under the influence of such a factor, this material may not act as effectively.
• Another disadvantage of mineral wool is considered to be a rather high level of dusting. In such a heater there are very brittle fibers, and their fragments are sharp and thin. If they get on the skin, they cause severe itching and irritation. It is possible to work with such a heater only in special protective clothing and glasses.

There are several varieties of mineral wool:

• stone (or basalt);
• slag;
• glass wool.

More affordable is budget glass wool. It has a special fibrous structure and a yellowish tint. Such material is made from cullet, borax, sand, soda, limestone and dolomite.

Glass wool has good thermal qualities. In addition, it seamlessly tolerates strong vibrations. When compressed, glass wool reduces its volume by almost 6 times. Glass wool is the softest type of insulation from all subspecies of mineral wool.

Not so long ago, glass wool in slabs appeared on sale, which is often used to insulate facade bases. Such material is more durable and reliable. but it should be borne in mind that glass wool is not only the softest, but also the most prickly insulation. You need to work with it very carefully. For this special protective clothing must be worn.

Basalt wool is very popular among craftsmen, as it is durable and keeps its shape.

Such a heater can be made from:

• diabase;
• basalt;
• gabbro.

Components such as dolomite and limestone are also added to these components.

Stone wool is good because it can withstand severe mechanical stress. In addition, this material does not burn and does not absorb moisture, which are decisive characteristics for a bath.

Often, basalt wool is produced with a special foil or fiberglass substrate. To make the material more durable and reliable, it is additionally stitched with special glass threads. Wire is sometimes used instead.

This material is used a little less often than others, as it absorbs moisture. For this reason, it is better not to use slag wool to insulate the bath ceiling - it will quickly fail and require replacement. In addition, this material is not designed for any load.

Ecowool

Now let's look at the disadvantages of ecowool insulation:

• Over time, the thermal insulation ability of ecowool decreases, especially if it is located in a room with a high moisture content.
• To install ecowool, you need to use special expensive equipment, which, as a rule, only professional teams have.
• It will not be possible to carry out the installation of ecowool on your own, not only because of the requirements for equipment, but also because of the complexity and specificity of the work. Their implementation should be entrusted to professionals.

• A lot of dust remains from ecowool during installation. If you use a wet installation option, then it will dry out for a long time.
• Ecowool cannot boast of a sufficient level of rigidity.

In no case should this insulation be installed in places close to open sources of combustion. Being next to the flame, ecowool begins to smolder gradually.

Penoplex

Its main advantages are:

• high hydrophobicity;
• low weight, which makes it cheap to transport and easy to install;
• good strength characteristics;
• composition with anti-corrosion components;
• the ability to install penoplex in almost any conditions;
• does not cause allergies;
• does not attract insects and rodents.

Of course, penplex, like other heaters, has its weaknesses, which include:

• susceptibility to burning;
• fear of contact with solvents (when interacting with them, the penoplex dissolves);
• high price.

Inside the structure of this insulation there is foam and air. Due to this feature, this material is not subject to corrosion, destruction from time to time and is not afraid of interaction with moisture.

Expanded clay

• Expanded clay is a heat-resistant material. It is not afraid of fire and does not melt at high temperatures.
• This heater has light weight, therefore it does not exert loads on the base.
• Not afraid of pests.
• Versatile in application.

It should be borne in mind that working with such material is not too easy. When laying expanded clay to insulate the ceiling in the bath, it is very important to provide the base with additional vapor and waterproofing.

Clay

The ceiling in the bath can be insulated with clay. But do not think that this process will be very simple and affordable. In its pure form, this material is not recommended to be laid.

It has long been combined with:

• sawdust;
• chopped straw;
• tree bark;
• sand;
• expanded clay.

Most often, clay is combined with straw, sawdust and sand. It is advisable to use expanded clay only if you are laying the clay mixture in layers.

Sawdust

If you decide to insulate the ceiling in the bath with sawdust, then you should consider that such material is the most fire hazardous. In this case, the fire retardant will not help. In addition, sawdust is quite dirty, and in the event of a draft, they will gradually scatter throughout the bath.

However, this material is environmentally friendly and absolutely safe for human health. It does not cause allergies and other similar reactions. Most often, sawdust for insulation is combined with clay or cement. Sometimes sawdust is covered with earth from above.

Indoor and outdoor work

Warming of the bath is permissible to produce both inside and outside. The second installation option should be consulted if there is no attic space in the building. In this case, it is best to use heaters in the form of flooring. Hemming structures make the ceiling more reliable and strong.

In this case, the boards are attached to the beams from the inside of the room, as well as from the side of the attic. In this case, multilayer thermal insulation materials must be laid between the decks. If you have a solid two-story bath (attic), then the laying of multilayer insulation begins from the side of the lower floor.

First, a vapor barrier is installed, followed by a heater, waterproofing material and floor covering of the second floor.

Warming scheme

To decide on the tactics of carrying out thermal insulation work, it is necessary to find out what the ceiling base itself is - hemming or flooring. In the case of a hemmed base, a board is hemmed onto the installed support beams (in the lower part). At the same time, the bars are closed from the inside and left only in the attic area.

If the method of overlapping is flat, then the board is fixed on top of the bars. Thus, flooring is created in the attic. At the same time, the bars themselves remain on the territory of the steam room.

If thermal insulation is carried out from the inside of the false ceiling, then the scheme of work will be as follows:

• first, on the floor boards, you need to fix a perforated waterproofing film that can let steam through;
• then a frame / crate is formed from wooden bars, taking into account the step under the insulation mats;
• next in the installation should be a heater (it must be laid out between the bars);
• this is followed by a waterproofing material, but in the bath it is recommended to use not a film, but a foil cloth;
• further according to the scheme there is a rail, which must be sewn over the bars.

If we are talking about the insulation of the flooring inside, then the scheme for laying materials will be as follows:

• first, a vapor barrier is laid on the boards located from the side of the attic;
• then a heater is laid on it (if it is mineral wool, then the thickness of its layer should be approximately 200-250 mm;
• followed by a layer of vapor barrier;
• at the end, the floor in the attic is covered with boards.

How to properly insulate?

When you have studied the insulation scheme and the type of ceiling construction, you can proceed directly to its finishing with mineral wool, foam plastic, clay or other materials. So that the result does not disappoint you, and the bath becomes warm and comfortable, when installing the insulation, you need to adhere to step by step instructions. To begin with, it is worth considering in detail the guide to the insulation of the flooring.

Finishing such a base is carried out from the outside.

Stages of work:

• First, a vapor barrier must be laid on the flooring. It can be fixed construction stapler or nails.
• On top of the vapor barrier film, you need to put the insulation itself. If you use bulk material, such as expanded clay or sawdust with clay, then around the perimeter of the base you need to nail a side that will prevent the insulation from spilling out.
• The resulting "pie", consisting of several layers, must be covered with a waterproofing material.
• As a rule, thermal insulation is pressed against the boards, which were laid in increments of 40-50 cm.

Now you should consider how to insulate a false ceiling:

• First, a vapor barrier material is nailed to the beams on the ceiling. It is recommended to use canvases in which one of the sides is foil. The vapor barrier must be installed with a slight overlap of 10 cm (a similar entry must be made on the walls).
• Next, it is necessary to nail the lining to the beams or edged board. These materials must be pretreated antiseptics so they don't rot.

To make the ceiling stronger and more reliable, it is recommended to use tongue-and-groove lumber, which has a groove and a ridge.

• Next, from the side of the attic in the space between the beams, you need to put a heater. Please note that the material must be laid correctly in order to create a dense layer without cracks and gaps.
• Make sure that the height of the thermal insulation material reaches the top of the beams by 3-5 cm. This will form the necessary space for ventilation.
• Next, the insulation is covered with a waterproofing film. It must be laid with an overlap of 10 cm.
• In conclusion, you should perform flooring from the boards.

If your ceiling in the bath is panel and consists of separate shields made of boards and bars, then you will have to act differently:

• On 2 parallel beams, you need to nail boards with a length of 60 cm. Before this, it is very important to treat the tree with antiseptic compounds.
• On all sides, the board should protrude by 5 cm. During docking, the resulting gaps will be closed with insulation.
• Coming from inside panels need to fix the vapor barrier material.
• The resulting structures must be placed on a crate fixed at the bottom of the floor beams.
• At the joints of the panels it is necessary to install a heater that is resistant to moisture.
• At the final stage, you need to lay a plastic film - it will protect finishing attic floor. On the crate at the bottom of the ceiling, you can fill the lining.

If you decide to independently insulate the ceiling in the bath, then you should consider that you need to be especially careful about the steam room. If there are even the slightest flaws in the ceiling decoration, then the heat will definitely leave the room.

When working with vapor barrier films or foil, you should be as careful as possible. These materials can be accidentally torn, which will adversely affect their quality characteristics.

If you want to correctly lay the material, then it is better to do it a little lower than the walls, so that you have free space for filling bulk materials or laying the same mineral wool. If it is not possible to do this, you need to fill small sides around the perimeter of the ceiling under the roof.

If you decide to insulate the ceiling with a mixture of clay and sawdust, then you need to consider that when using a bath in the warm season, the optimal layer thickness can be 50 mm. If you are going to bathe in it in the winter, then it is better to put a heater with a layer of 150 mm.

If the ceiling is built of logs, then from the side of the bath you need to construct a crate. In this case, the logs must be covered with a vapor barrier, covered with a 20 cm layer of sand on top, and then insulated according to the usual scheme.

If we are talking about cranial boards, then they can be fixed on the top of the logs.

If you do not want to spend money on the purchase and installation of steam and waterproofing of the ceiling, then you should use high-tech insulation, which is made on the basis of mineral wool and has a foil layer. With such a coating, laying vapor and waterproofing is not needed.

Do not use material such as polystyrene to insulate the ceiling in the bath despite its cheapness. When heated, it releases toxic substances that Negative influence on human health.

Don't save on thermal insulation materials and do not look for too cheap specimens, unless, of course, the ceiling is supposed to be insulated with clay or sawdust. A suspiciously low price may indicate that the quality of the insulation is not the best.

The working conditions of baths (especially steam rooms) are not similar to the usual modes of operation of residential premises. The parameters of the microclimate of high-temperature spa areas are important not only for creating comfort, but also for extending the life of the buildings themselves. In addition, the problem of energy saving is becoming more and more urgent every year. “What is the best way to insulate the ceiling in the bath?” - This issue is given special attention, since the heat loss from the ascending flows of heated air and steam can be up to 30% - 35% of the heat exchange of the steam room.

In addition to the fact that it is necessary to significantly reduce energy losses, it is required to reach certain parameters for vapor barrier. At the same time, we must not forget about the special requirements for the safety and environmental friendliness of all materials used. When choosing the design of the ceiling lathing for the bath, the types of strength elements, membranes and insulation, one should proceed from the observance of three basic principles:

• fast kindling;
• slow cooling (comfort and heat saving);
• a special microclimate characterized by the accumulation of steam (it is required to avoid its condensation).

The classic approach to arranging the ceiling in the steam room provides for sewing the draft plane (adjacent to the load-bearing beams) with wide thick boards - the “magpie”. A thickness of 50 mm is considered excessive. It is known from application experience that such flooring begins to accumulate moisture, which does not have time to evaporate between steam sessions. As a result, the likelihood of getting a ceiling prone to condensation increases.

When equipping a room with a classic crate from the "magpie", the ceiling of the bath is most often insulated with mineral wool, expanded clay or other proven heaters from above - from the side of the roof.

The modern trend is associated with the use of two types of insulation, one of which is reflective, and the second plays the role of the main one. The better to insulate the ceiling of the bath in order to implement the functions of infrared reflection and thermal break - will be discussed in the following sections of the article.

The role of foil materials and vapor barrier films

Ideal heaters for baths do not exist. It is not possible to equally realize the reflection of heat rays, resistance to heat transfer and vapor barrier with one material. Aluminum foil and foil sandwiches of the foilizol type allow you to select the optimal combination of materials for equipping baths of any design.

For example, folgoizol makes it possible to install non-hygroscopic mineral wool, as it is an ideal vapor barrier.

The reflective layer is located immediately behind the decorative ceiling lining. If the main heat-shielding layer is further placed, then an air gap of at least 2–3 cm must be provided between it and the reflector.

Application polyethylene films it is advisable to limit the waterproofing in the under-roofing areas. Vapor barrier without the formation of condensate is much better provided by foil sandwiches and membrane materials with special microvilli.

Ceiling insulation with mineral wool

Mineral (aka basalt) wool is more often than other materials used as the main insulating layer. For many specialists involved in the construction of baths, the question of "how to insulate the ceiling in the bath" has long been resolved in its favor. Main advantage stone wool over all other insulating materials - high heat resistance and fire safety. Unlike glass wool, the structure of fibers based on molten basalt is not harmful to the respiratory system. However, the insulation of the ceiling in the mineral wool bath has serious limitations. This is a high hygroscopicity of the material and the presence of hydrophobic impregnations designed to resist the penetration of moisture. Impregnations are made on the basis of waxy low-melting compounds, which are prone to unwanted gas emission when heated above 70 °C - 80 °C.

Ceiling insulated with mineral wool

Not every mineral wool is suitable for arranging baths. Use only brands without impregnations with a direct indication of the intended use in spa areas: for example, "ISOVER Sauna" or "ROCKWOOL Sauna Butts". The first material is roll type, the second is made in the form of plates. Both are lined on one side with a vapor barrier based on aluminum foil. The ceiling of the bath should be insulated with mineral wool while providing double-sided hydro- and / or vapor barrier. When mounting foil or other types of protective layers, it is necessary to leave an air heat-insulating gap between the wool and the membrane.

Use of Styrofoam

In a number of sources, one can find statements about the inadmissibility of using foam plastics (PPS) and extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) for equipment of baths and saunas due to the release of these materials harmful substances when heated. Others argue that the thermal degradation of this insulation begins at 160 ° C, and the subceiling space of the Russian bath can only warm up to 100 ° C - 110 ° C. And therefore, they say, restrictions on lining the steam room with foam plastic or EPS do not make sense.

Let's dot the "and" in this matter. The fact is that neither the first nor the second position is fully justified. Surface emission of styrene can begin even before thermal degradation (in the range of 90 °C - 130 °C).

Therefore, the material cannot be used as an inner layer of insulation that is in direct contact with the decorative lining of the ceiling in the steam room. But under the condition of using reflective two- and three-layer foil materials, it is quite possible to place a heat-shielding layer of PPS or XPS behind them, since the temperature on the back surface of the sandwich does not exceed 50 ° C.

Expanded polystyrene for the ceiling of the bath is only possible with a reflective multi-layer screen

It is advisable to use expanded polystyrenes to insulate the ceiling in the bath with your own hands, working alone. It is especially convenient to use XPS boards, if necessary, to mount a layer of insulation on the lower surface of the draft ceiling. Without assistants, it is extremely difficult to carry out such work with loose materials such as mineral wool.

Expanded clay

Ceiling insulation with expanded clay is used in baths with under-roof rooms (attics, attics). The properties of expanded clay are in many ways similar to those of mineral wool. The same pluses: environmental friendliness, resistance to high temperatures ... and the same minus: the material absorbs moisture too well. From below, it must be protected from the penetration of steam, and from above - from the effects of atmospheric and condensation moisture.

In addition, the fired pellets of this heat insulator have a much lower resistance to heat transfer than mineral wool. For this reason, the required effective embankment thickness is at least 30 cm.

The option is suitable for steam rooms of a large area. Since the floor beams above the spacious rooms have a significant vertical section, deep natural niches are formed for filling the required amount of expanded clay.

Self-growing foam concrete and other DIY insulation

Insulating the ceiling with clay with sawdust, homemade cellular concrete, moss and other exotic materials is advisable if you have access to these relatively cheap or free thermal insulators.

If during the construction process you have an excess of basic draft materials (for example, cement), then some of them can be used to equip a heat-insulated ceiling in a steam room. The technology of self-growing aerated concrete is based on the interaction of three main components: cement, water and a special gas-forming powder. In addition to the listed materials, density-reducing components such as sawdust and straw can be added to the mixture.

The main advantages of the technology in comparison with expanded clay backfills are lower thermal conductivity and greater moisture resistance. The resulting cellular material is enough to fill with a layer of 10 - 12 cm. Expansion under the influence of gas-forming additives, in addition to heat-saving properties, helps to obtain a continuous surface without cracks and gaps. In addition, waterproofing is not required with this option.

If you have your own carpentry, and the under-roofing zone of the bath allows filling in large layers, then you can implement ceiling insulation with sawdust, combining them with sand, clay and some other building and natural materials. Clay has good steam and waterproofing qualities. Therefore, before filling the sawdust, first make a clay layer about 2 cm thick. Then the sawdust is backfilled with a layer of about 10-15 cm in height. Sand, dry earth or moss is laid on top of the sawdust, mixed with needles with a layer of about 15 cm. Mixtures of sawdust with clay are also used as masses that have both heat-saving and waterproofing properties.