Installation of MDF panels on walls: do-it-yourself installation and lathing. How to properly sheathe walls with mdf panels Methods for attaching mdf panels to the wall

Wall decoration with MDF panels has recently become more and more popular, due to the fact that with the help of them you can quickly tidy up surfaces of a fairly large area. In addition, the installation of the panels will not take much time, since you do not have to wait for the drying of numerous layers, as, for example, in the case of plastering. It also plays into the hands that the surface leveled by them does not require any additional finishing, as is the case with drywall. Another advantage of this material can be called a very affordable price for it.

Do-it-yourself MDF wall mounting panels, which can be carried out even if there is absolutely no experience in this work, are installed quite simply. The main thing is to understand the principle of such cladding, prepare surfaces and pay special attention to accurate calculations and markings.

What are MDF panels?

The abbreviation "MDF" stands for finely dispersed fraction, from which this finishing material is made, including wall panels. The production of MDF consists in the process of dry pressing of a finely dispersed mass from sawdust and shavings, using high temperatures and pressure. To bind the mass, carbamide resins modified with melamine are added to it, which prevents the evaporation of formaldehyde, chemically binding it (formaldehyde emission class - E1). MDF panels are considered an environmentally friendly material, so they are not prohibited from being used for interior decoration. The principle of installing panels is similar to installing natural wood, but they have a lower price than the latter.

Installation of MDF wall panels can be carried out in two ways - fixing them to a frame crate or fixing them to the wall surface using an adhesive composition such as "liquid nails". This adhesive is used not only for the installation of wood products and its products, but also for sealing cracks, as it contains sawdust filler. If the filling of defects will be carried out on the remaining visible sections of the wall, then the adhesive mass should be selected by color so that the patched sections do not stand out against the general background.

MDF panels are produced in a wide variety of shades and can have a textured micro-relief pattern that imitates various breeds wood or stone, so they can be chosen for the design of any interior. In addition, the panels are easily combined with each other and can be installed vertically or horizontally, depending on what effect the owners want to achieve.

For example, if the ceiling is too high and makes the room uncomfortable, you can install the panels horizontally, using different shades of them alternately. If you need to visually raise the wall, then the panels are installed vertically.

The panels are produced in different lengths and widths, so before choosing the color and shape of the material, you need to think about what effect you want to achieve.

Tools for finishing work

To work comfortably, you need to prepare tools in advance that will speed up the installation of the finishing material, making it as simple as possible. So, from the tools you will need:

• Electric jigsaw or vertical saw.
• Building level and plumb.
• Tape measure, metal ruler and building corner, a simple pencil or marker.
• Electric drill, screwdriver or even a regular screwdriver.
• Construction stapler.
• A hammer.
• Pliers.

The main methods of mounting MDF panels and the materials necessary for this

For the installation of MDF, certain auxiliary materials will be required. Moreover, the purchase of some of them will depend on the choice of mounting method.

Mounting panels on walls can be done in two ways:

• Kleev.
• Wireframe.

Both methods can be used to install panels both in a private house and in an apartment, but for adhesive installation, the main condition must be met - the wall must be perfectly flat. Therefore, if the panels are to be glued to the surface, then it must first be leveled with drywall or plaster-putty method.

To mount the panels on glue, you will need very few auxiliary materials - this is the “liquid nails” composition and fittings.

If you need to level an uneven wall with MDF paneling, while hiding communications behind it or conducting insulation and sound insulation, you will first have to install a frame that will bring the entire future surface into one plane.

The frame for the installation of panels can be made of a wooden beam or a metal profile. It must be said that mounting MDF is easier to carry out on wooden material, since nails or even staples are suitable for this. When mounting panels on a metal profile, metal screws will be needed, and in this case it will not be possible to do without.

When using a frame, a gap inevitably forms between the main wall and the cladding, in which there will be no ventilation air circulation - such conditions are very “attractive” to mold and fungus. Therefore, before installing the crate, it is imperative to audit the wall. If it is wet, then it will need to be dried first, and then treated with special antiseptic formulations. It is still better not to install such a cladding on external thin walls at all, as it will quickly become unusable, and in addition, an unfavorable microclimate will be created in the room over time, which can cause allergic reactions in residents.

To install the cladding panels on the frame, the following materials will be required:

• A wooden beam treated with antiseptic compounds, with a section of 15 × 30, 20 × 30, 20 × 40 or 20 × 50 mm, or a galvanized metal profile - the same as used when installing drywall.
• Insulation material - foamed polyethylene of selected thickness.
• Metal straight hangers that will help to set the guides exactly in one plane.

• Kleimers for fixing panels on the frame.

• Small nails or staples for the stapler.
• Dowels for attaching brackets (suspensions) or direct rails to the wall.
• Wood screws.
• Fitting profile elements - corner and plinth. It should be noted that the design of the corner for MDF panels is convenient in that it can be used to decorate both the external and internal junction of planes, even at different angles.

Preparing the wall surface for cladding with MDF panels

Surface preparation can only be carried out if it is dry. If you find signs of high humidity on it, you must first determine the cause of this phenomenon, and then try to eliminate it. It is impossible to close a damp wall with any panels.

If there are no such obstacles for the installation of MDF panels, then approximately the same preparation of the wall surface is carried out both for the frame system and for gluing. It consists of several operations:

• Wall cleaning.

If the wall is covered with wallpaper, then they must be completely removed, otherwise in a closed space they can become a breeding ground for mold or even insects. High-quality pasted wallpapers, which are difficult to remove, must first be soaked with water or steamed with an iron, and then cleaned with a spatula. Sometimes you have to resort to using special formulations for.

If the wall is plastered and whitewashed, or qualitatively painted with water-based paint, then it is not necessary to clean it.

• Wall processing.

In the event that mold spots are present on the wall, then the surface must be “treated” - treated special composition"Anti-mold" or the usual concentrated bleaching agent - "Whiteness". Before processing, it is recommended to clean the surface to the maximum possible depth with a spatula. When the applied composition is absorbed and dried, the wall must be cleaned again with a spatula, and then the treatment should be repeated. It is advisable to clean the area affected by the fungus to the ground, that is, remove the plaster in this place completely and process the main wall itself well.

"Treatment" of the affected areas of the wall with antiseptic compounds

This work should be carried out in compliance with the mandatory safety measures, in a respirator or in a special mask, in order to avoid inhalation of particles of plaster affected by the fungus.

• Closing cracks.

If, after removing the wallpaper or “weak” plaster, cracks are found on the wall, it is recommended to repair them, especially when planning the placement of heat and sound insulating materials under the MDF panels. Cracks must be repaired so that they do not become cold bridges, as well as a place where dampness accumulates, various insects or the same mold can find shelter.

Cracks are first cut in breadth and depth, ...

In order for the putty or plaster mortar to hold well in the gap of the crack, it needs to be slightly expanded and deepened. Then it is cleaned of the remnants of the old plaster and processed with a brush.

… and then densely filled with repair mortar

After the primer has dried, the cracks are sealed with a putty mixture or plaster mortar. In this case, it is necessary to try to ensure that the expanded gap is filled to its full depth.

• Surface primer.

The next step is to prime the entire surface of the walls. Moreover, it is necessary to choose a primer composition containing antiseptic components that will resist the emergence and development of mold, as well as other manifestations harmful to humans.

Mandatory operation - thorough priming of the entire surface of the wall

If it is planned to sheathe wooden walls, then it is recommended to choose a primer, which includes not only antiseptics, but also flame retardants - they will increase the fire resistance of wood.

The primer is applied to the wall with a roller in two to three layers, each of which must dry thoroughly before applying the next.

• Installation of insulating material.

Further, in the event that the panels will be attached to the crate, you can proceed to gluing the insulation material. For this purpose, "penofol", which is glued to a primed surface, is well suited.

The most convenient in work - "penofol" on a self-adhesive basis

Today, you can find self-adhesive "penofol" on sale - it can be very easily fixed on the wall with foil towards the room by removing the protective film backing. If such material was not found, then the usual "penofol" is purchased. It is cut to the height of the wall and glued to the Teploflex glue, applied in an even layer on the wall surface or directly on the insulation. Cloths of "penofol" are pressed against the surface, and with the help of a rubber spatula, air is expelled from under it.

Gluing the joints of adjacent strips of "penofol" with adhesive tape

Sheets of material are mounted end-to-end, and then the glue must be allowed to dry, after which the joints are glued with special foil tape.

Frame structure installation

Carrying out markup

If it is decided to mount MDF panels on the frame, then first you need to decide how the elements will be installed, vertically or horizontally, since the location of the batten guides depends on this factor. For horizontal orientation of the panels, the guide battens are mounted vertically. And vice versa, if the panels are mounted vertically, the frame elements are installed perpendicular to them, horizontally.

The frame is fixed on top of the insulating material. The step between the railing guides is usually chosen within 500÷600 mm from each other, and they must be installed perfectly even.

To find the perfect vertical, you need to use a plumb line with a colored cord, with which straight lines are beaten off on the wall. If the lines are beaten off on a foil surface, then immediately after the beating, each of them is additionally highlighted with a black marker using a ruler.

To determine the horizontal, I resort to the help of a level. The most accurate result will give a laser or water. If there are no such tools, then you can use the usual construction one, expelling the bubble into the middle with special care. Having outlined the currents, they are also connected by lines using a colored cord.

According to the markup, it will be quite easy to correctly fix the guide battens.

When marking, it must be taken into account that the first frame guide is installed at the junction of two surfaces, that is, in the corner of the room or along the floor surface. The first racks will serve as a reference line for the rest of the elements, maintaining the set step.

wooden frame

Wooden bars, despite the marking lines, when installed on the wall, are still checked by the building level for evenness. Then, they are attached to the wall with dowels, for which holes are drilled right through the bars, into which plastic dowels are hammered, after which self-tapping screws are screwed into them (or driven dowel-nails are used). Fasteners are installed at a distance of 350÷400 mm from each other. The length of the dowels or self-tapping screws is chosen so that they go into the thickness of the wall by at least 50 ÷ 60 mm, and the thickness of the crate beam is added to this parameter, given that the screw head is completely recessed into the wood.

It is more difficult to bring all the racks of the crate to the same level if the wall requires alignment with the crate, and the bars themselves will have to be fixed to hangers. In this case, the installation of the frame is carried out in the same way for wooden bars and metal profiles.

Hangers are first fixed to the wall along the marking lines. I fix them on the wall with two dowels, maintaining a step between adjacent ones at 350 ÷ 400 mm from each other. Hanger shelves are bent perpendicular to the wall surface.

Then, two extreme beams on the wall are installed, aligned in level and relative to the wall. They are attached on both sides with self-tapping screws to the shelves of the suspensions. The protruding parts of the shelves are bent back towards the wall.

The installed extreme guides are connected along the outer edge with stretched cords from above and below (or to the right and left - with the horizontal orientation of the frame) - this will become the reference lines (beacons) for the correct installation of the remaining guides in a single plane.

Metal carcass

Metal profiles prepared in size are fixed on the wall according to the same principle as wooden bars, but sometimes liners are made of timber for structural rigidity. To fix the profile, suspensions are necessarily used, even if the wall is perfectly flat and the racks will fit close to it.

If the frame is mounted on a wooden wall, then the hangers for fastening the railing rails are fixed on the wall using wood screws. If installation on a different base of the wall is necessary, then it is best to fix the suspensions with driven dowels-nails.

If the finish is fixed on a wall that has a window or door opening, then appropriate guides must be installed along its edge, on which the lining will first be attached, and subsequently the slopes and platbands.

Installation of MDF panels on the frame

Before starting the installation of the cladding under the frame, all electrical or other cable communications are carried out and fixed, immediately determining the installation locations for sockets and switches, if they are provided on the wall being finished.

Installation begins with the preparation of MDF panels - they need to be cut to the height or length of the wall. The panels are marked with a tape measure and a building corner, the corresponding lines are drawn along which the cut is made using an electric jigsaw, a manual vertical circular or even a conventional hacksaw.

• The first panel must be leveled until the ideal vertical (or horizontal) is reached, otherwise the entire cladding will go further skewed.
• The launch panel is installed with a spike in the corner and fixed to the guides from the side of the corner in two or three places with self-tapping screws. On the opposite side, clamps are inserted into the groove of the panel at the points of its intersection with the railing guides, through which it is finally fixed with nails or staples to the wooden frame. Using metal frame fixation of the clamps is carried out with small self-tapping screws with a low head, so that after it is completely screwed in, it does not interfere with subsequent installation.

• To begin with, the spike of each next panel is tightly driven into the groove of the already installed one - this docking edge is already fixed. Mandatory adjustment of the panel according to the level is carried out, since the configuration of this connection allows a certain backlash. After precise exposure, the panel is fixed in the same way with clamps.
• So continue facing to the end of the wall (or to the end of the section, for example, to the doorway). The last panel on the plane is cut in its thickness so that it freely enters the groove, leaving a gap of about 5 mm in the corner. The final fixation of the final panel is carried out with self-tapping screws, right through it. It's okay - the fastener caps at the beginning and at the end of the lined wall will be hidden by decorative corners.

Horizontal installation of panels is carried out in the direction from the floor to the ceiling, and the first canvas must also be perfectly level. Fastening to the crate takes place exactly according to the same principle as with a vertical arrangement.

• In the panel on which the socket or switch is to be installed, a round hole with a diameter corresponding to the size of a standard socket (usually 67 mm) is pre-cut. Drilling is carried out using a drill-crown.

The socket must be fixed securely, and not bend when inserting the plug of electrical appliances. To ensure a hard stop against the wall, it is recommended to additionally fix wooden fragments of suitable thickness on the back side. The front part of the socket and the switch is screwed onto the facing panels or to the corresponding sockets of the socket.

Mounting MDF panels with glue

It is somewhat easier to install MDF panels on glue than on a crate, but using this method, it will not be possible to install insulation.

• To install the first panel, it is necessary to beat off a vertical or horizontal line on the wall, depending on how the installation is planned.

When gluing, the position of the panel must be controlled by level.

• Particular attention should be paid to the choice of glue for working with MDF panels - it must have some special properties:

- The adhesive must remain flexible enough even after its initial hardening, otherwise there is a risk of deformation of the panels. A composition should be selected that will not be affected by humidity and temperature changes.

- The adhesive must have a thick enough consistency to be able to be applied in a thick or thin layer, as appropriate, and evenly distributed over the surface to be glued.

The best option - glue type "liquid nails"

These requirements in terms of the main parameters are precisely met by the composition "Liquid Nails". The primer that the walls are pre-treated with will create good adhesion for the glue on their surface, so the panels will hold securely on it.

• Glue is applied to the back of the MDF lining in dotted or wavy lines. The panel with the glue applied is first firmly pressed against the wall, and then it is torn off and left to “wind” the glue for 3-5 minutes. After that, already for the final fixation, the panel is reinstalled and pressed in the right place, and held on the wall surface for several seconds until the adhesive composition is firmly set.

The adhesive can be applied to the back side of the panels dotted or "snake"

Therefore, in order to speed up the gluing process, the composition is applied immediately to 8 ÷ 10 canvases, which are pressed against the wall and then come off. After smearing, attaching and tearing off the last of the 10 panels, they glue the first, second, and so on, until it comes to the last. When installing canvases, they need to be pressed very well against the wall surface, and for better fixation, you can even grab each of them with self-tapping screws in two places. They are screwed into the groove of the panel, and then the self-tapping screw is closed by the next spike to be installed.

• If the finish is installed horizontally, it is recommended to wait until the glue under the lowest fixed panel dries well - it is necessary to create a reliable support for the rest of the paintings. If there is no time to wait, then the panel can also be attached to the wall with self-tapping screws.
• The last panel to be mounted, if necessary, is reduced in width - it is measured, drawn and the excess part is sawn off with a jigsaw. In the corner, the last canvas is screwed to the crate or wall with a self-tapping screw.
• The final elements of the installation are fittings and skirting boards. The corners are glued at the junctions of two planes to "liquid nails", covering the heads of the self-tapping screws that fasten the panels to the corners of the wall. In the same way, these fittings are fixed around door and window openings (if special profiles are not used there - platbands or slopes).

They can be mounted in different ways, depending on the chosen design - glued to the same glue, installed on special fasteners or screwed to the wall surface with self-tapping screws. Fixing skirting boards to the floor would be a very serious mistake.

Learn how to produce by reading the step-by-step instructions in the article on our portal.

Advantages and disadvantages of wall decoration with MDF panels

Having become acquainted with the technological process of mounting MDF panels, it is possible, summing up, to formulate their main positive and negative qualities.

So to virtues Such a finishing material includes the following qualities:

• Fairly simple installation with the ability to mount the panels both vertically and horizontally.
• A wide variety of colors and textured patterns will allow you to choose a finish for every taste and interior style.
• When mounting MDF panels on a frame crate, you can hide cable communications behind them.
• With the help of panels, even curved walls can be given a respectable look and visual evenness, especially with the right combination of shades.
• Panels, unlike drywall, do not require additional finishing - this saves time, effort, and materials.
• It is easy to take care of the MDF finish, as it is enough to periodically wipe the surface with a damp soft cloth.
• Finishing MDF wall panels have a very affordable price.

disadvantages such panels can be called the following points:

• With this finish, a perfectly smooth surface is not created, since small gaps or depressions almost always form at the joints, depending on the design of the panel.
• When such a cladding is attached to the crate, a gap remains between it and the wall, in which, with insufficient pre-treatment or other adverse conditions, dampness can accumulate, and microflora that is unsafe for humans can develop. Very often, especially if walls are sheathed in a private house, this empty space becomes a favorable place for nests or rodent paths.
• The coating of the panels is not highly resistant to mechanical stress - it is easy to damage it, for example, by moving pieces of furniture without sufficient care.
• MDF does not belong to moisture-resistant materials in any way, therefore, if the wall behind the sheathing starts to get damp, the panels may swell and the lining will begin to deform.

However, it can be noted that despite the above disadvantages, MDF panels are only gaining popularity and fully compete with. Installation of such a cladding can easily be carried out even by one person without outside help, moreover, having absolutely no experience in such work, unless, of course, he follows all the technological recommendations.

And finally, a small visual material» in the form of a video about the installation of MDF panels:

Video: how to mount MDF panels on walls

When decorating walls a large number of time is spent on leveling the surface. Therefore, for those who wish to carry out major repairs or make a new department after the construction of the facility, it is very important to simplify this task. One of the most common materials for leveling is drywall. However, it cannot provide high structural strength, and must also be replaced after the adhesive-based decorative finish has been removed. A more advantageous material in this situation is MDF. It is made with or without a decorative layer applied, allowing you to create your own color. Do-it-yourself wall decoration with MDF panels is quite simple and does not require special skills or abilities in facing work.

Installation technology

MDF panels have various forms in the form of square, rectangular or type-setting lath plates. Therefore, at the first stage, it is necessary to determine the most suitable sizes, as well as the type of decorative finish. If you plan to do the work yourself without outside help, then it is better to choose those that are smaller in size. If necessary, reduce the time of work carried out, take large panels.

Before installation work it is necessary to lay out the panels in the room so that they can acquire normal humidity. This will prevent the formation of gaps at the joints or the appearance of mechanical stresses. When the temperature changes by 300C, the elongation can be up to 10 mm. Walls must be treated with special impregnations without fail. They destroy harmful microorganisms and do not allow them to develop further.

MDF is mounted on a wooden or metal profile crate. This allows not only to create a strong and reliable design, and to ensure the ventilation of the main wall material. Wooden crate is more common, as it is close in properties to MDF, and is also relatively cheap. However, if the bars were not dried in a natural way, then during operation they can be bent, and the MDF sheet, at best, move away, and at worst, it can be damaged. Due to the fact that the wall may be damp, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing layer. As a result, mold and fungus will not form in the niche. Additionally, you can lay a heat-insulating layer to increase the energy efficiency of the room. Usually mineral wool mats or polystyrene are laid.

If the main walls are initially even, then you can refuse to install the crate by choosing to mount on an adhesive base. The value of deviations from evenness should be no more than 3 mm/m2. In addition, with this installation method, it will not be possible to install a heat-insulating layer.

In the case of fixing MDF to a metal profile with your own hands, you will need to purchase additional special fasteners. They are specially shaped end caps and connectors that quickly and securely snap into place, resulting in panels being securely fastened.

We calculate the amount of materials

The first step is to measure the length and width of the walls using a tape measure. It is worth doing this for each of them, as they may vary slightly in size. After that, you need to calculate the number of rails for the crate. Draw a sketch on paper to scale, and then evenly place the slats in a horizontal or vertical position. At the same time, the distance between them is kept the same within 40-50 cm, taking into account the tight fit of the upper and lower slats to the floor and ceiling. The panels are mounted perpendicular to the rails.

The cross section of the wooden bars of the crate is selected taking into account the magnitude of the maximum irregularities of the wall, as well as the need to ensure sufficient structural strength. Therefore, in the case of wooden bars, the cross section must be at least 25x40 mm, and for a metal profile with a shelf width of 20 mm and a steel thickness of 2 mm.

The number of MDF panels is determined taking into account their size and the most successful location along the walls in order to reduce the amount of excess. However, do not forget about the observance of the pattern in the case of choosing panels with decorative trim. The stock by quantity of material must be at least 20% of the total quantity.

We carry out preparatory work

If construction or dismantling work was carried out before installing MDF panels, then it is necessary to remove dirt and wipe dust from the walls. If there are problem areas on the wall that peel off or crack, you need to determine how reliable they are and whether they will fall off during the installation of the crate. To do this, it is enough to tap them with a hammer.

Before attaching MDF wall panels to an adhesive base, it is necessary to determine the degree of deviation of the surface from ideally smooth. The simplest, but inaccurate method is to shine a flashlight from the corners of the wall and determine the places where shadows are created. Then, using a tape measure, you need to approximately measure their size. For deviations of more than 4 mm, you will have to perform partial alignment or install a crate. You will also need to brush off the old finish with abrasive material.

After that, the surface of the walls is treated with antiseptic impregnations. During the time until they dry, it is necessary to determine the places for attaching the crate using a laser level, and apply the appropriate marks with a marker. In the absence of a laser level, a tape measure is used to measure distances, and with the help of a level, align them relative to the horizontal or vertical.

The wooden crate must be treated with impregnations against pests and fungi, and then painted. This will significantly extend its service life. It is not worth cutting them in advance, just like MDF panels, since it is quite difficult to determine their exact dimensions. The material should be prepared as the installation work progresses to minimize the amount of waste, and the connecting seams are obtained without visible gaps.

Lathing installation

Installation starts from the floor if the crate is horizontal or from the wall in case of a vertical arrangement. They take a guide, apply it to the surface of the wall, and then mark the most convex places (enough one on each side). These will be zero points. Then equidistant points are laid from them with a selected value from the interval of 40-50 cm. These will be places additional fasteners, in which with the help of a puncher you will have to drill holes for plugs or dowels. For these purposes, a fastener diameter of more than 4 mm and a length of 5 cm is sufficient. The dimensions of the holes must correspond to them.

Then a rail is applied and a tight fixation is performed at two selected points. At the same time, make sure that it is parallel to the wall, otherwise the panels will be skewed. Deviation is acceptable only if the walls in the room are not parallel and you need to align them, or there was a design idea to make them that way. Since the first guide sets the initial level, it must be installed slowly, clearly measuring the distances and setting the correct position.

The fastening of the bar at other points is carried out so that it retains its position, but at the same time is firmly fixed. That is, in places where the guide does not fit snugly against the wall, it is necessary to install wedges made of wood or rigid steel beacons with the required dimensions. They can be made independently or purchased ready-made, and the dimensions can be adjusted during installation to the level of the gap from the walls.

The second is attached to the upper guide. For it, two conditions must be met: it must be parallel to the wall and the bottom bar, and also located in the same plane with the first guide. Therefore, they take a rail and fix it at a point on one side of the wall, but not tightly, but so that it is movable. Then a similar procedure is performed on the opposite side. Using a plumb line, they check the location of the guide in the same plane as the one already installed, and adjust their parallelism with a level. After alignment is completed, final fixing is carried out.

All remaining rails are attached in the same way according to the applied markings. You will not need to use careful level checks, since it is enough to attach a flat bar and check the location of the guide in the same plane with the rest. After completing work on one wall, proceed to the rest. In places where the lathing is adjacent to the window and doorways it is necessary to mount guides along their perimeter.

Cladding with MDF panels

First, the panel is cut to the height of the room. If you plan to install suspended ceilings, then the height should be 2-3 cm lower from the ceilings. In case of exceeding the dimensions of the wall, indent from the corners on both sides by 3 mm. This is due to the fact that it is necessary to fasten the panels to each other according to the principle of the spike entering the groove.

The lining process consists of the following steps:

1. A J-element is installed in the corner of the room, if one is provided by the MDF manufacturer.
2. They take the panel, put it close to the wall and snap it into the lock, and then screw it onto the screws in several places along the spike. If there is no connecting element, then a spike is cut off from the end of the panel so that it can be pressed close to the corner. With the help of self-tapping screws or special fasteners, they are fixed on self-tapping screws with a distance from the corner of 5-10 mm.
3. Finally secure the panel, making sure it is in the correct position.
4. They take the second panel, coat the groove with glue and put it on the already installed spike. A spike is screwed onto the screws. In the grooves, you can connect to the clamps, which are a steel bracket that allows you to securely fix one panel to another. There is no need to additionally screw, glue or nail the panels. Decorative trim on adjacent panels should join naturally.
5. Paneling the surface to the next corner of the wall. The panel that borders the wall must be cut at an angle of 450 in the end part from the side of the groove.
6. The next wall is laid out with a panel with a cut under 450, but already from the side of the spike.
7. The last panel needs to be rounded at the end so that it can be inserted into the groove that was installed in the first step. Additionally, the panel can be fixed with self-tapping screws along the connecting seam.

Alternative ways to fasten panels

1. On glue to the wall surface. The glue is applied to the entire surface of the wall in a wave-like manner so that the excess glue does not go outside the panel, but forms a uniform layer. Due to the elasticity of the adhesive bond, the panel does not detach from the wall during temperature changes.
2. On glue to the crate. It is used in cases where the panels have decorative coating. Glue is applied to the crate in an even layer. Due to the small contact area, the panels must be screwed on with self-tapping screws in the upper and lower parts.
3. Fastening with staples of a construction stapler or nails to the crate. A fairly simple and reliable method, but it has a significant drawback - the decorative coating is damaged. Due to the rigidity of the fasteners, there is resistance to thermal expansion of the panels. Therefore, it can only be implemented in cases where the same indoor climate is maintained throughout the year.

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself installation of an MDF panel is quite simple. To do this, it is enough to take measurements correctly, cut them to size and choose the appropriate method of fastening. At the same time, it is not necessary to prepare the wall surface, except for cases when it is planned to mount the panels on an adhesive base without a crate. The most important thing is not to rush when setting the position of the guides and the first panel. As a result, a perfectly flat and smooth surface of the walls will be obtained without significant financial costs.

Wall decoration consists of several stages. Mounting MDF on walls will require a preliminary selection of the necessary materials. The technology of mounting MDF panels on walls is quite simple. if you follow the tips and tricks. Make room for everyone.

Everyone wants to have a stylish and comfortable home to emphasize their own individuality and create a unique atmosphere.

Description of MDF wall panels

Installation of MDF boards on the walls can be done correctly, quickly and cheaply, without putty, primer, painting or wallpapering. Minimum construction debris, stylish and practical.

Wall panels have been known on the Russian market for over 10 years. During this period, their popularity does not subside.

The advantages of using MDF panels are:

• a wide range of sizes and textures, glossy and matte;
• low cost;
• great quality;
• environmental friendliness of the materials from which the panels are created;
• optimally suitable sizes;
• ease of adaptation for rooms of any configuration;
• the possibility of fastening to a wooden and metal crate;
• indicators of mechanical, thermal and ultraviolet resistance;
• long service life without losing its original appearance;
• resistance to tobacco smoke;
• ease of cleaning and washing;
• ease of installation, if you need to fix the mdf panels on the wall. You can repair a room in half a day, without dust, dirt, preliminary work and a large number special tools.

This building material Suitable for both dry and wet areas. Even in conditions of exposure to moisture, MDF furniture will not be covered with mold or fungus. Mounting from wood will also be an advantageous way to decorate the surface.

There is a wide variety of MDF panel designs:

• matte;

• glossy;

The effect of a large-format ceramic plate

Some tile panels are small in size. I alternate tiles, different in texture and color, you can lay out different patterns of any level of complexity.

Visually, this will achieve the effect ceramic tiles large format.

Thanks to the panels with dimensions of 120 by 80 cm, it is possible to cover the panels faster. Having studied the recommendations on how, you can give an excellent appearance modules.

The difference between wall panels is noted according to such indicators as:

• dimensions;
• texture;
• thickness;
• Colour;
• fastening principles.

At correct execution works you can create the perfect interior. Interior decoration walls with natural materials are now in trend. However, natural materials are quite expensive, and work with them is time-consuming. Therefore, synthetic materials are widely used.

Due to their high quality, it is difficult to distinguish them from natural counterparts. MDF panels repeat the texture natural wood, create the appearance of a wooden coating.

At the same time, they are excellent for washing and cleaning. And the installation process is simple and fast. It is necessary to cut the panels to the desired length and fix them to the frame.

MDF is resistant to moisture. about moisture resistant mdf for walls. There are special corners for the color of the panels, they can change shape. With them, you can build a platband, internal or external corners. Such material used to give the interior a finished look. You can learn how to install mdf panels on walls from the recommendations.

If the installation is carried out in winter, it is first necessary to hold the wall panels indoors for several days so that they restore their dimensions. When choosing panels, keep in mind that the narrower they are, the longer the work will be done, but there will be less trimming.

It is necessary to determine how smooth the walls are. If the level shows good data, in this case it will not be necessary to make a wooden crate.

You can simply glue them to the cement with a special glue. In the case when the walls are not even, it will be necessary to carry out the crate.

This situation is more common. What materials will be needed for it? The crate is made of soft wood. First think about what the crate will be. In dry rooms it is better to use a tree, and in wet rooms - a metal profile. According to the same parameters, it is necessary to select fasteners.

Self-tapping screws - if a metal profile is used, fasteners from wood screws or staples, if you need to work on a wooden crate. In space, walls and battens can lay a layer of heat - or sound insulation.

How is the MDF panel attached to the wall:

• with crate;
• without a crate.

How to fasten and install - installation

We mount the crate to the surface of the rail

It is necessary to start work from the corner. Laying must be done tightly. The thin part turns towards the corner. Fastening is carried out on the surface of the rail.

You can successfully complete the installation of MDF panels on the wall with your own hands if you prepare rails with a cross section of 20 by 40 mm. They will need to be fixed using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver.

The location of the rails must be perpendicular to the direction of the panels to be mounted. In order to mount the elements of the crate, we adhere to an interval of 40 - 50 cm.

Using the mounting level, we constantly check the evenness of the installed rails. If the surface of the wall is uneven, it is necessary to align the crate with the help of such building materials, as:

• plywood;
• beam;
• mounting adhesive.

Long self-tapping screws or dowel-nails are used to fix the surface. It will depend on what materials the walls are made of. This process is also constantly monitored by measuring the evenness of the surface with a level.

The bottom of the slatted crate should be located taking into account a distance of 3 - 5 cm from the floor. This will allow in the future to successfully secure the floor plinth.

At the top, the crate is mounted at ceiling level.

• the crate is fixed in different positions:
• in the corners;
• along the window opening.

If the work is carried out in a place where there is a high level of humidity, it is desirable to install elements of a plastic crate or metal. You can watch a video on how to mount MDF panels on a wall surface. If you use the “groove-to-groove” fastening method, over time it will be easy to disassemble the structure.

Installation and installation technology of the first panel

To perform installation work on installing mdf panels on walls, you must start from the corner:

• attach the first panel;
• we make a level check;
• we fix the panel with self-tapping screws to the rails along the entire height.

A thematic video from the Internet will tell you how to attach MDF to the wall.

How is it attached to the frame

In order to fasten the MDF panels to the wall sheathing, kleimers are taken - brackets of a special type.

Kleimers are pushed into the cavity of the panel groove and fixed using a construction stapler.

It is best to use nails. Care must be taken not to damage the edges of the panel.

Use pliers to avoid this. We mount the remaining panels. In the grooves of the panel that is already installed, the crest of the panel that will be next in the row is inserted.

A video on mounting mdf panels on the wall can be viewed before starting work. Next, you need to fix it to the crate and do the work in the same way in the required quantity.

The last panel against the wall may not fit. If necessary, you can cut the MDF panels with a jigsaw or wood saw.

It will not be difficult to cut it, the main thing is to correctly measure the part that will be cut off. So they will be the right length. Following the recommendations of the instructions on how to attach MDF to the wall, you can do such work yourself. We install accessories.

In order for the interior of the wall-mounted MDF to look like a finished product, it is necessary to install MDF fittings. You can close the joints with a folding corner.

Coat the surface of the inside with glue and press firmly against the corner panels. After doing finishing works With the use of MDF panels, the appearance of the walls will change significantly.

How to fix without wooden rails

It is possible to fasten mdf panels to the wall without crates. In this case, the lower part of the panel must be clamped between the wall and plywood. The upper part must be inserted into the start profile. It is screwed to the top panel.

To be able to additionally fix the structure, it is necessary to make another hole in the middle to fix the panel. The fastening of MDF panels to the wall without rails is carried out using wooden chopsticks and self-tapping screws with hats.

The panel will fit snugly against the wall perfectly, and it will be possible to save at least 4 cm of space if the MDF panel is mounted on walls without battens.

For additional fixation of the panel on the wall, professional mounting foam is used. Under the panel, the foam will not collapse, since the sun's rays do not get there. Treat the top and bottom of the surfaces with foam. The fastening of MDF boards to the wall must be reliable.

The panel is glued, one self-tapping screw is additionally added in the middle. how to glue mdf on the wall. This will be enough. The strength and durability of the entire structure depends on how it is possible to fix the MDF to the wall.

For more information about mounting MDF panels on walls, see the video:

How to attach a skirting board - installation methods

MDF plinth can be attached to the wall in several ways:

• on self-tapping screws;

• mark the place to sleep;
• we make a cut;
• apply glue;
• press against the wall with force;
• mount the corner element.

Most often, the plinth in the apartment fits the platband, this gives the structure an unaesthetic appearance. So that sharp corners do not spoil the look of the plinth, it is necessary to file the corners by turning them inward.

Mounting MDF on the walls in the kitchen with your own hands

Can install attractive wall mount. Panels with photo printing are perfect.

Compared to aprons made of other materials, it can be mounted directly in the kitchen, adjusting all technological dimensions during the installation process.

The panel needs to be marked, if necessary, cut holes for electricity sockets. On a flat surface panel MDF is glued with liquid nails.

Gives the room beautiful view. Installation of the apron and additional elements is carried out quickly and with a minimum presence of construction debris.

findings

Practical and environmentally friendly MDF panels are widely in demand in modern construction. They are made by pressing wood dust in a vacuum. This achieves the color of natural wood in various shades.

If you learn in detail how to mount mdf panels on the wall, You can drastically change the look of any room in your home. Installation of MDF panels on the walls, the price of which will depend on the quality of the selected materials and volumes necessary work more profitable than working with natural materials.

You can learn how to install MDF panels on the wall from the video. This material is so easy to use that you can get the job done quickly and efficiently.

How to fix the MDF panels to the wall, and on what basis - the decision must be made taking into account the features of the wall geometry, the size of the room, the presence of communications and constant heating. Despite the huge popularity, MDF wallboards are quite picky about operating conditions, so you should not fix it in the first way that comes to hand, so as not to re-lay the finish a second time.

Dimensions of MDF - panels

Often, consultants of trading companies present MDF boards as a lightweight version of particle boards, especially if you decipher the English abbreviation. Accordingly, it is recommended to fix them in the same way as in the case of using chipboard. In fact, MDF panels in terms of structure and production method differ significantly from particle board, which allows you to fasten the material at a lower cost and faster.

There are only three main differences:

• Thin MDF boards are made from recycled cellulose fiber, which contains virtually no polysaccharides - a staple food for bacteria, fungus and rodents. Chipboard uses ordinary chips filled with phenol-formaldehyde resin, so it is fixed with special tongues;
• Boards are made by pressing wood-fiber pulp with the addition of hydrogen peroxide. At a temperature of 250 ° C, lignin and part of the cellulose are welded with the remains of caramelized polysaccharides into a dense fiber mass. In thick slabs, the MDF core is additionally impregnated with polymer resin, which makes it possible to fasten without the risk of delamination of the material;
• The bending strength of the panel is only slightly inferior to plywood with greater plasticity and resistance to moisture. Most brands of MDF can be mounted on walls even in rooms with low ventilation.

The difference, at first glance, is insignificant, but it is the strength and elasticity of the cellulose fiber base of the MDF panel that makes it possible to fasten the cladding plates using end locks.

Even with a strong temperature difference, the MDF panel shows an expansion level much less than that of plastic or ordinary wooden lining, so the material can be fastened with smaller gaps, which is especially important for medium and large thickness boards.

What sizes are the most popular

For wall cladding, three size groups are used:

• Thin slabs, size group 5-9 mm thick, 153, 198, 200.325 and 2070 mm wide;
• Medium MDF panels, thickness 10-18 mm, width 2070 mm;
• Oversized slabs, thickness 19-38 mm, width 2070 mm.

There are no restrictions on external dimensions, and the maximum thickness of the plates is limited by the pressing capabilities to 40 mm. Two-layer MDF panels with a maximum thickness of up to 60 mm are also produced, used for the manufacture of reusable formwork and roofing filing. But the quality outer surface such plates are quite low, so they are not used for wall decoration.

Installation of MDF panels

Pressed cellulose fibers retain heat and absorb noise much better than plastic or wood. In addition, the MDF panel has a certain anisotropy of properties, it can be cut and processed in almost any order. Mounting the panels is easy and quite within the power of even a novice tiler.

For domestic purposes, panels can be mounted in three ways:

• Lay the plates on the glue;
• Mount the cladding on a wooden or metal frame;
• Installation of MDF panels by hanging.

The latter case is used as an exceptional way of cladding walls in a house made of timber or logs. It is necessary to fix the MDF boards on the ceiling suspension profile with a small gap between the floor and the bottom edge of the board. The cladding is suspended on the profile, and as the walls shrink, the MDF sags along with the timber material.

It is clear that for wooden house it would be preferable to use narrow plates, 190-200 mm wide, while it is better to fix MDF in a vertical direction. If it is not known exactly about the planned amount of shrinkage of the wall, then it is best to fix the decorative finish with a gap increased by 2-3 cm. Firstly, this ensures that the floor will not tear the slabs off the walls in case of excessive shrinkage, and secondly, the slots will provide a normal level of ventilation and airflow between the panels and the wall.

Mounting on a metal frame

Installation of panels on a supporting frame made of galvanized profiles is recognized by experts as the most rational and reliable way to fasten any pulp and fiber materials. Even heavy plates with a density of up to 1.5-1.8 g / cm 3 can be attached to the metal frame without any problems. The metal will not lead to condensation or blocking of the walls as a result of pipe breaks, water leaks in the apartment on the floor above or roof breaks.

The assembly of the frame begins with the installation of the starting profile and side rails. MDF panels are lightweight, so it is enough to install a number of vertical profiles No. 50 in increments of 40-50 cm. Using a galvanized U-profile makes it possible to fix MDF to the walls of a room about two to three times faster than in any other way.

Two or three drops of silicone applied to the profile will even out the load on the wall and avoid the cladding from popping when strong wind if there is a ventilation gap behind the decorative MDF lamellas.

Mounting on a wooden frame

The easiest way is to mount MDF panels on a wooden frame. There are two options for wall cladding using cellulose fiber panels. It all depends on the size of the room and the condition of the walls.

If a small reduction in space due to the crate is not critical, the wooden slat frame is sewn onto the walls using metal hanger holders. For small and small rooms, most often it is necessary to partially cut and knock down a layer of plaster in order to level the surface along a vertical plumb line, to make it as even as possible.

In any case, the starting bar is initially laid on the floor and under the ceiling. With the help of a long building level, the installation points of the suspensions are marked on the wall and the minimum required overhang of the side lobes of the fasteners is determined.

In the event that it is planned to install horizontal MDF lamellas, the bearing strips are mounted vertically. For the installation of full-size panels with a width of more than 200 mm, the walls are sewn up in both directions. Each wooden plank of the crate is aligned with the starting guides and fixed with suspension petals using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver.

For relatively even and dry brick, concrete or block walls, the batten can be fixed directly to the wall using dowels. In this case, work is added, since each plank has to be adjusted for a long time with the help of washers before fastening in order to maintain a single vertical plane. But on the other hand, you can save 3-4 cm of internal space, which can be very useful, for example, when decorating the walls of a small bathroom or corridor.

Glue installation

Using a sheathing or supporting frame always eats up an additional 3-7 cm of space on each wall. The use of a frame system is considered a good solution, but it is not at all necessary to fence the frame jungle if the walls of the room for future MDF paneling turn out to be even, without serious defects and deviations from the vertical.

In this case, it is enough to clean the walls, prime them with an acrylic primer and apply a thin layer of insulating putty. The lime underlayer will help to further level the walls and improve the applicability of the MDF boards to the supporting surface.

Laying panels on the walls with glue is carried out in two versions:

• Each MDF is glued to the wall with one lamella, from ceiling to floor, with fixation along the end edge using self-tapping screws and plastic plugs;
• The material is laid on the wall in horizontal stripes from corner to corner after assembly and gluing of corner and edge parts.

If the lamellas are glued directly to the wall, then the end joints are not glued or treated with sealing materials. Most often, with the help of glue, rather large panels are laid on the walls, 40-60 cm wide. This method is more advantageous from a technological point of view, since the load from the rather large weight of the MDF panel is distributed not over several clamps or brackets, but over the entire surface of the plate and walls. What does it give? Greater reliability, if the upper row of MDF lamellas breaks, the middle and lower rows will hold the entire structure.

Before fixing the MDF panels to the wall, the reverse side is covered with small portions of glue. It can be dots, spirals, short stripes. The main thing is that the adhesive material is evenly distributed over the surface of the wall.

As an adhesive, it is best to use automotive sealant, polyurethane adhesives and home-made adhesive masses based on a mixture of acetone and foam. Acrylic and polyvinyl acetate adhesives hold MDF panels rather weakly.

Note! The MDF sticker on the sealant provides the ability to cut and remove the panel from the wall if necessary without damaging the surface. Tougher alkyd, polystyrene and acrylic adhesives can tear off some of the wrong side.

Fastening MDF - panels to the wall

The process of installing cellulose fiber panels is relatively simple and straightforward even for a beginner. If a horizontal laying method is used, then the bottom panel or lamella is installed first, directly resting on the starting bar of the frame. It needs to be laid on glue, aligned with building level and fix with a stapler or self-tapping screw.

Before laying the next panel on the wall, it is necessary to install the corner or edge elements of the cladding, fix them on the wall, and only then proceed with laying the next parts of the MDF.

How to fasten MDF panels to a bar or profile is selected individually in each case, based on the fastening conditions and the dimensions of the material. Relatively thin, 6-9 mm lamellae are snapped into place with tongue-and-groove locks, after which the free end is sewn to the beam with staples with self-tapping screws. If it is supposed to be possible to periodically remove the MDF lining from the wall to revise the communications or wiring laid behind the decorative trim, then the panels are placed on the clamps.

Thick plates are mounted directly on the walls with glue and dowels, sealing the joints with acrylic putty and then gluing wallpaper or PVC film.

A difficult option, how to mount MDF on walls with insulation

MDF boards are much simpler and easier to handle than heavy drywall, plywood or plastic, while the strength of the panels is enough to build two and even three-layer cladding options from a fiber composite with insulation as an intermediate layer.

For example, cold exterior walls made of profiles, siding or concrete blocks are hemmed from the inside with MDF boards of HDF class, with a density of 800-1800 kg / m 3. The thickness of the plates is 25-40 mm. The laid panels are sewn together at the joints with oblique self-tapping screws and staplers, the seam itself is rubbed with polymer mastic.

The material is treated with impregnation, which provides good vapor transmission with high resistance to surface condensate. Plates are attached to the outer walls "on the cold" - with the help of steel dowels and joiner's screws. From the inside of the slab sheathing, wooden or trimmed slats are sewn.

A steam membrane is pulled over the laid thermal insulation and clogged with horizontal slats with a section of 20x20 mm. At the last stage, light decorative MDF panels of the LDF class with the texture of wood, natural stone or veneered are sewn onto the lathing.

Due to the low density of LDF, 200-600 kg/m 3, MDF panels perfectly pass steam, which is removed through the ventilation gap and the ceiling ventilation joint. In this way, walls are sheathed in summer kitchens, balconies, verandas, any rooms with frame-type walls.

Features of finishing MDF - panels

Most professional finishers prefer to work with MDF as there is no dust and dirt like drywall, installation is faster and there are far fewer problems.

The assembly and installation of MDF on walls is in many ways similar to laying laminate floors, with the only difference being that there are more options for choosing schemes for decorating the room and a much more complex arrangement of corner and sloped wall sectors.

slopes

Scheme of arrangement of door or window slopes no different from drywall options. If the lamellas were laid vertically on the walls, then to design a window or doorway, it is enough to cut a panel of the required height and width and stick it on the slope plane with mounting foam or sealant.

If the walls in the protection room are horizontal panels, then the slopes will have to be collected from segments on self-tapping screws and plastic plugs.

corners and cracks

Slots and gaps are always formed between the laid additional elements and the main part of the cladding. They have to be eliminated with the help of special decorative corner plates and decorative skirting boards.

All auxiliary decor is glued to Titanium or Mounting Moment for MDF, a small amount of glue is applied to the edge along the gap, after which a corner strip is installed on the joint. To prevent the decor from moving away, the corner is temporarily fixed with tape.

Sockets and switches

Every room has at least a couple of outlets and one switch. In order not to dismantle them during the installation of MDF, proceed as follows: measure the coordinates of the location of the outlet on the wall, after which a hole of the appropriate shape and size is cut out with an annular drill or a jigsaw. When installing the MDF panel, the size and position of the hole is specified and cut with a sharp knife.

It remains to install the panel, fix it on the wall, and close the remaining gap with a decorative frame.

Conclusion

The details of the process, how to fix the MDF panels to the wall, must be thought through and planned in advance, before starting work on decorative trim premises. The process itself is not particularly difficult, but in any room there are many problem areas where the fastener method has to be almost invented on its own. In this case, it is better to draw the details and the fixing method on the diagram so that you don’t have to rack your brains and waste time in the process.

691 10/09/2019 7 min.

World modern construction it is hard to imagine without an affordable, durable and environmentally friendly material, which is MDF panels.

In addition, their installation can be carried out even by non-professional specialists; at the same time, the master, in his work, must be as accurate and accurate as possible. It is not difficult to finish the walls with MDF panels with your own hands, the skills of an ordinary carpenter are enough.

Required inventory

In addition to the classic home tools that almost everyone has, you should buy plumb lines (you can easily make them yourself using nuts, fishing line or thread).

Also make sure that there is a tape measure at hand, a tool for determining surface deviations from the vertical or horizontal, and a special nozzle for a drill, with which self-tapping screws are wrapped, a locksmith's square will also be needed.

It is desirable that it be metal, with legs of different thicknesses. With a square, you can easily cut material for slopes, a more massive leg is used as a stop. A special screwdriver also does not hurt, but you should not buy it specifically.

For an internal supporting structure consisting of a combination of linear elements, purchase profiles yud and sd. The two options considered in their shape resemble the letter P and are distinguished only by configuration dimensions.

The companies produce fasteners (“ears”) and connectors for the SD profile, which are rational to use for large volumes of work, the period of their installation is strictly limited.

If the sheathing will be carried out by the master with his own hands, the video of the work, which can be found in the vastness of the worldwide network, will not be specially purchased on purpose.

For more information about decorating walls with mdf panels, see the video:

If you are constructing walls from MDF panels with your own hands, think about warming them up, in which the voids are filled with foam, building foam or silicone.

The second considered insulation can be applied unevenly, and this will entail the presence of protrusions that are easily removed with a special construction knife.

It is the humid environment that is the most optimal for the development of various pests. about bathroom furniture. In addition to an additional insulation layer, foam, foam or silicone will additionally protect the room from the formation of possible condensate, which most often appears in voids.

Do not forget that MDF is a sawdust panel, so it is recommended to follow them, along with real wood.

Thermal insulation of the room will additionally help to cool it in hot weather. summer days. When the room warms up, the influx of heat from the street will decrease significantly.

It's just that the MDF on the frame acts as a heat shield that can reflect the elements. If a ball of material, which is foamed plastics, is also added to the MDF, together they create a double protection.

In this case, the reflection coefficient of the material exceeds 0.7 units of heat. By doing some minor calculations, you can understand that no more than a few units of heat will enter the room. How will the rates of their outflow through the surface change in the winter months?

Given that the process of heat exchange through the walls is about 0.15 percent of the total heat flow, we can confidently count on a significant reduction in all funds spent on heating, as well as air conditioning - by no less than ten percent.

At high tariffs, this fact will significantly affect the savings in the budget.

Lattice construction

If you are interested in: "How to sheathe mdf walls do-it-yourself panels? ”, To begin with, take care of the design in question. A variation made of wood is attached to the supporting structures with curly nails or professional dowels.

The latter are similar to self-tapping screws, only with a smooth and asymmetric thread profile. It is driven into a special plastic hole with an ordinary hammer. On the head of the dowel there is a recess for a tool for screwing in and unscrewing screws. The metal crate is mounted exclusively with curly nails.

To attach it, use special fasteners with a diameter of 0.4-0.6 cm. The stronger the base, the lower the indicator. You will purchase each curly nail or dowel at the same time as a plastic fastener.

Holes in the surface under it should be drilled according to the diameter of the nest body. The body of the fastener, whether it be a nail or a self-tapping screw, must be driven into the wall by at least 4 cm.

For example, if the plaster ball is 1.2 cm and the lattice structure is constructed with slats or a profile 4 cm thick, and the thickness of the panel is 1.6 cm, then the length metal product will be equal to the sum of all the described indicators: 6.8 cm.

That is, when purchasing, pay attention to parts with a length of 7-8 cm. The distance from the surface to the bottom should be identical to the length of the nest. Please allow 1.2-2 cm error. When buying a longer drill, it must be equipped with a limiter tube.

Lathing with wooden bars

If you are interested in the visual question of the described, find a video on the Internet: “Do-it-yourself wall decoration with MDF panels.” Lattice structure made of wood always installed, starting with vertical racks, which are placed in all corners in pairs.

Visually, it should look in such a way that as a result a right angle is formed, which is visually visible from the edge of the window opening, door and base to top coat. A stand is applied to the surface, the boundaries of which are drawn along the surface.

Then, a mounting hole is drilled through the material with a step of 70 cm, elements for fasteners are driven into it. Their border is marked on the rack, then a hole is drilled in two-thirds of the diameter of the fastener.

More professional repairers can pre-drill the holes, while their marking on the surface can be carried out directly through them. The horizontal wooden beams are then installed using the same step.

Beams must be installed along the upper part of the opening, under the board or stone slab of the window. Opening slopes are formed along the two edges with slats, the use of crossbars is not allowed.

When carried out, MDF panels should be located along a vertical or inclined structure and across the beams. mdf for ceiling

Lathing made of metal elements

This type of lattice structure is carried out in a similar way: beams at the corners and openings, then crossbars. The step of the lattice structure is used similar to the wooden one. Beams should be constructed from a yud profile, sd profiles are mounted and installed in them to the place.

After checking horizontally with a device for determining deviations, the surfaces are attached to the first, then to the surface, in zones previously created for this.

Parts must be attached to each other. For this, small self-tapping screws are used.

SDs are mounted to the wall with curly pointed rods. It is irrational to use a plug-in spike for this purpose: you will either not finish the element you need, or you will deform the profile. Profile elements sd must be fastened with each other in advance to the selected length.

Work on the crate with metal elements should be carried out by the smallest grinder in terms of size and functional features.

You can also buy a manual circular saw. With an electric jigsaw, even if it is equipped with a metal saw, the installation will be significantly delayed and a lot of defective panels will turn out.

DIY wall cladding

You can always find the video of the material described in the article on the worldwide web. The very process of installing MDF panels on a lattice structure or a solid flooring is much easier than all the work at the preparation stage described earlier.

• start from the corners. Cut a given amount of MDF material according to dimensions in order to sheathe the required plane to the nearest beam. Corner cuts must be treated with sandpaper;

• take the first panel on which you need to cut off the crest of the longitudinal ledge. The panel is attached to the corner with a fastener or a small cumulus rod. how to fix mdf to the wall. The groove of the lock is also important. Its sides are fastened with nails or a metal perforated plate (clip);
• another panel is added. The comb slides into the groove, where it is attached, and so on, until you see the last couple of panels;
• the last element is cut to length according to the given dimensions. Only it is worth considering the sticking of 0.2-0.5 cm;
• the crest of the last part should be cut in half and rounded off;
• the two penultimate fasteners are mounted in place with a “house”. Press down on the fasteners to hear a special "snap" sound;
• the last fastener is pushed to the end on the one that was installed earlier; fasten the free edge with a curly nail.

findings

Finishing slopes should be carried out in a similar way. In this case, the master can install MDF panels along or across. If wide slopes are used, choose any sheathing method. The plane between the wall and the window itself will look harmonious if it is sheathed with elements of dark and light colors.

In general, everything is as the master and other residents of the house wish. Installing MDF panels, if you understand in detail all the stages described, will not be difficult. Remember that you can always call a specialist, and for a moderate fee, he will do all the work for you.