How to install a barbus filter in an aquarium. How to install and use aquarium filters

15.06.2019

If everything is already clear with you, you should think about a water filter. For fish in an aquarium, the purity of the water is very important, so it is necessary to regularly clean the water from dirt and food residues. Aquarium professionals can perfectly match the flora and fauna so that an aquarium filter is not needed. But this is rather an exception, besides, fish also need special food.

So let's talk about special filters. My aquarium has a filter as shown in the picture. Simple and clear with two sponges. Bought on the market for 100 UAH with a question to the seller: “Give a filter for a 100 liter aquarium” If you cannot approach the seller with such a question, then read the text further 😉

Buying an aquarium filter is necessary for several functions:

purification of water from various organic and inorganic particles;
removal of soluble drugs after treatment of fish and other substances;
ensuring good water circulation;
enrichment of water with oxygen.

Aquarium filters are divided into two categories: external and internal. As is logically clear from the names, the internal one is when the filter element is located in the aquarium, and the external one is outside it. There are no particular advantages or disadvantages from choosing one or another type of cleaning - it's just a matter of the comfort of caring for the device. Remember that periodic cleaning of the filter is a guarantee that it will not become a source of harm to fish.

There are several types of aquarium filters:

bottom, which is located under the pebbles. When working, it creates soil movement, which only benefits the water microflora;
boxes through which water passes. There are internal and external, and the work uses electricity or air;
aerators. The principle of operation is that water is directed by a jet of air and passes through a layer of a sponge. Attaches to the wall of the aquarium, and to clean the filter - you just need to wash the sponge;
type "gas mask". The water is passed through a container with one or more filter media.

The location of the filter in the aquarium: it can be external and internal, and the power comes from the mains.

An aquarium filter can have different types of cleaning:

you can buy a filter for an aquarium of a mechanical type. The main function is to remove various debris from the water. But there are devices that enrich the water with oxygen and circulate it. Foam, crumbs, sponge can be used as a cleaning agent;
chemical type of filtration using activated carbon, zeolite or other substances. Used to rid water of ammonia and other toxic substances;
biofiltration. It is used in aquariums with a large number of fish that pollute the water very strongly. After undergoing mechanical purification and enrichment with oxygen, the water enters the biofilter. Removal of soluble waste occurs with the help of bacteria.

When choosing an aquarium filter, it is worth considering the speed of its operation. Recommendations are very different, but the best option would be the speed of cleaning from one volume per hour. It is important that the water stays clear.

A good video review of a typical aquarium filter:

How to install an internal filter in an aquarium?

How to install an internal filter in an aquarium? This question often perplexes beginner aquarists. It seems that everything is clear in appearance, but how to do it correctly, so that God forbid something does not happen, is not clear. Is the filter itself completely immersed in water or not? And why, I wonder, such a transparent tube? The instructions for the filters are not always detailed and understandable, and in the photo on the box it is not clear whether the filter is immersed in water or not. The internal filter is called so because it is located inside the aquarium. The external filter is bulkier and designed to be placed outside the aquarium. The internal filter is completely submerged under water so that 2-4 cm of water remains above it. It is attached to the wall of the aquarium with suction cups included in the filter package. The small flexible hose that comes with the kit is needed to supply air, so one end of it is attached to the corresponding hole on the filter spout, and the other is led out, you can fix it on the upper edge of the aquarium wall (often there is a mount on it for this). In any case, the air intake should be above the water level in the aquarium. Most often, there is an air supply regulator on the nose of the internal filter (some at the end of the air hose), you can first put it in the middle position. In the future, adjust as you need. Some aquarium fish love the strong current created by the filter, and some can't stand it at all. Only after installing the filter and attaching all its parts, you can turn it on to the network. In the future, all manipulations in aquarium water must be carried out with the filter turned off, since no device is immune from malfunctions, and they, in turn, can lead to damage. electric shock. Sometimes beginners ask: - Why are there no bubbles from the filter? - In principle, when setting to a weak flow of water, there may not be any bubbles. If you see a wave of the water surface in the aquarium, then the filter is working properly and this is quite enough. Water is saturated with oxygen from the surface due to waves, as in nature, because there are no devices there.

On aquatek.com.ua, it is very well written about the problems with the external filter and its advantages compared to the internal filter for the aquarium.

Old-school aquarists have come up with a tricky device for a very long time, which they called an external filter for an aquarium. They were made from anything and filled with anything, as long as it was the most porous substrate. Most likely, looking at all their efforts, foreign experts and their technologies went ahead and released the most popular canister type aquarium filter to date, which is installed outside the aquarium. Such a filter was called biological. This means that beneficial bacteria, having settled on the porous surfaces of the substrate, will happily catch organic matter dissolved in water and turn it into substances that are safer for fish. Today, the very concept of an external filter is associated as a filter for the lazy. I would not like to call all aquarists lazy in a row, because there is still such a thing as employment or lack of opportunity for service. I consider myself to be extremely lazy.

From this we can draw one relevant conclusion - an external filter is convenient for any aquarium. First of all, due to the large time intervals between its maintenance (or, in other words, cleaning and flushing). Another big plus of an external filter is that the filter materials can be different, separated from each other using special containers for these fillers (or, as they say, baskets). As an example, the following can be cited: in one of these containers, a rather large-pore material can be placed, for example, a large-pore sponge or ceramic rings, which will serve to retain large suspensions from flowing water and to distribute water flows in the filter itself. It is worth mentioning the following here: the slower the water flows through the filter material, the more efficient the filtration. When using an external filter, due to the large area of the filter materials and the uniform distribution of water over the filter material, filtration in the aquarium is much more efficient than in any internal filter. And of course, the filtration efficiency exponentially increases due to the number of filter materials. Further, as an example, we can give activated carbon, which can also be placed in one of the containers of the external filter in a sufficiently large amount, which is almost impossible to do with a system that has an internal filter. The benefit of activated charcoal is that, due to its properties, it makes the water absolutely colorless. This is true, for example, after the use of drugs, many of which color the water very strongly or with the active use of dry food containing various dyes that change the color of the water. That is, the use of coal in a canister filter is very effective. Again, by using a slow flow of water.

The next fairly weighty argument that encourages the use of an external filter, in addition to rare maintenance, is that it does not spoil general form aquarium as an internal filter, which occupies a certain space in the aquarium and is clearly visible, no matter how hard they try to hide it. For its maintenance, there is absolutely no need to even lift the lid of the aquarium, not to mention disturbing the peace of the inhabitants of the aquarium. Each external aquarium filter has taps in its aquarium connection system that shut off the flow of water into and out of the filter. To service the canister filter, it is enough to turn off the taps and disconnect the filter from the hoses.

View of an aquarium with an internal filter

View of an aquarium with an external filter

Installing an external filter for an aquarium:

External filter. Common Problems and Solutions

So you have already bought or just decided to buy an external filter. However, this device is not familiar to you, and it scares you to some extent. You ask yourself the question - what will happen if I have difficulties with it and how to deal with it? In this article, I will try to help those who have problems with an external filter, or who are afraid of them, hesitating before buying an external filter or better to stop at other filtration devices.

In fact, there are no unsolvable problems. This is the first. The second is that the circle possible problems with an external filter is quite limited, and for all of them there is a real and practical solution. That's exactly what I will try in this article to outline the range of problems that arise when working with an external filter and outline how without special efforts they can be solved.

Let's start with the simplest. At first sight. But, as it is not strange, a common case. Having bought an external filter, you opened it, removed the technological lubricant (in those models where it is necessary to do this), pulled out the filter materials from plastic bags (in those models where the filter materials are packed in plastic bags) or just wondered what is inside. But it's not possible to put it back together. The filter head does not fit properly. I note that the head should clearly stand on the filter housing and close with latches without any additional effort. If this does not happen, then this is precisely the problem that is now being discussed. Possible reasons(here and below, we mean different models filters): one or more filter baskets are full; baskets stacked incorrectly on top of each other; water supply holes are not connected to each other; rubber gaskets between the tubes in the baskets (if they are provided for by the design) did not fully fit into their grooves; the handles of the baskets are not stowed or lowered into their grooves. elimination: evenly distribute the filter materials over the baskets, put the basket handles into the grooves, slowly checking the fit of the baskets and seals between them. The photo shows how the head and body of the external filter should fit together - with a uniform gap and without any distortions.
Violation of tightness between the head and the body of the external filter. In other words, a filter leak. This is the most painful and often raised problem in various specialized forums. And this is no accident - after all, in the event of its occurrence, there is a threat of flooding of the room in which the aquarium is located, and if it is an apartment in high-rise building, then the apartments are one floor below. These concerns, according to our observations, are the main reason that pushes the aquarist to still choose an internal filter, if such a choice is worth it. Is this problem so terrible, and what is behind it? So, possible reasons the occurrence of a problem. The first reason is that the clamps that fix the head on the filter housing are closed loosely or not closed at all, in other words, ordinary ... .. negligence (carelessness and haste). This is rare, but it does happen. elimination– Carefully close all clamps. As mentioned above, the clamps should close without additional effort. Next reason– contamination of the profile seal (or gasket) between the head and the filter housing. Often between the filter head and the housing, where the gasket is located behind long time dirt deposits accumulate, which in their density do not correspond to the sealed gasket, and as a result, the water that is under pressure in the filter can find a weak point and begin to come out of the filter. elimination- clean the profile seal (gasket), the very surfaces of the head and body that are in contact with it, lubricate with a special lubricant or vaseline.	The profile seal or gasket in the external filter is an object of close attention
The third and most common reason– the profile seal (gasket) is inserted incorrectly, misaligned, damaged or missing. Some models of external filters are designed in such a way that the gasket can be easily removed or moved. In such filters, it is highly likely that when the head is installed on the body, the gasket may move slightly to the side in some place, which will lead to uneven tightness of the connection, and therefore leakage (this is especially true when the gasket is already worn out by repeated assemblies and disassemblies of the filter) . The way out in this case will be accuracy in the process of assembling the filter, as well as the use of only branded seals, preventing their wear. In some models of canister filters, damage to the profile seal occurs due to several reasons. One of them is the sharp edges of the canister or filter head. This leads to the fact that each time the filter is assembled and disassembled, sharp edges injure the rubber seal, as a result of which microcracks form on it. At some point, pressurized water will be able to seep out and the filter will leak. In order to avoid this problem, I recommend paying attention to the head and canister when choosing a filter, avoiding a model with sharp edges. In the process of using such filters, with each assembly of the filter, lubricate rubber gasket special grease or petroleum jelly to soften the mechanical impact on the gasket.	The sharp edge of the canister of one of the external filters
I note that today there are already models of external filters on the market that have already got rid of the gasket disease. Their design eliminates the possibility of both shifting the gasket and its mechanical damage during assembly and disassembly of the filter. As a rule, in these filters, the gasket is located inside a special groove on the filter head, which prevents any of its shifts. Therefore, such a gasket is pressed evenly over its entire area. The edge of the canister in these models of filters is also processed in such a way that it is rolled, eliminating the possibility of causing “injuries” to the rubber seal of the filter. One of these filters is shown in the photo with an emphasis on the location of the rubber seal inside the groove on the filter head. Summarizing the above, I will say that the accuracy of working with the filter, caring for rubber seals, their obligatory timely replacement if microcracks are suspected, as well as choosing a filter with the least safe design for installing a sealing gasket will help to avoid problems with leakage of an external filter from under the gasket. purchase .. As you can see, with proper handling of the filter, it is quite possible to avoid such a widespread problem as external filter leakage.
The filter is not working or is not pumping water. We approach the aquarium, but the filter does not work. what happened? Possible reasons. No matter how trite, the first reason is the lack of power supply to the filter. Check if someone at home has unplugged the plug from the socket. Sometimes it helps to get the filter back to work. If this does not help, there is a chance that the filter rotor is blocked by fragments of pebbles or a snail shell. In addition, it is possible mechanical damage or destruction of the rotor. For solutions to this problem it is necessary to disconnect the filter from the network, remove the head from it and examine the rotor, and if necessary, replace it. If the filter does not work after washing and reassembling it, the reasons are as follows. The filter has nothing to download, because it has no water. It should be remembered that before turning on the filter in the network, it must be filled with water. The filter itself is not filled with water, therefore, depending on the filter model, after connecting it to the hoses, you must either use a quick start pump or fill the filter with water through a special filling hole, and only after it is filled with water, turn it on to the network. Another reason may be errors in the installation of the rotor after washing - the rotor and / or the axis are inserted crookedly, or the rotor axis is broken, there are no axial rubber bearings (see photo), or the bayonet lock on the body is incorrectly installed. To eliminate it, you need to remove the head and check the assembly of the rotor compartment, carefully installing the components in their places. If missing or damaged, replace.	Rubber axial rotor bearing
The next problem that aquarists often face when working with an external filter is that the filter power has been greatly reduced. There can be quite a few reasons for this. So, I will try to indicate them all along with the solutions. Let's take a look at the filter taps or locking levers, depending on the model. It is possible that the valves are not fully open, or the shut-off levers are not set to the OPEN end position. It is possible that the taps themselves or the tap connection block are very dirty. If this is the case, then it is necessary to clean the taps or the tap connection block using a special brush. In this case, the tap must be open, and the levers in the tap connection block are set in the open position to avoid damage to the block device. The next step is to take a look at the hoses. Perhaps one or both are broken at the bends or twisted. It is also possible that the hoses become contaminated with dirt deposits. In this case, it is necessary to clean the hoses with a long flexible brush. In addition, there are cases of contamination of the nozzle on the intake pipe with dirt, snails or plant particles. Also, a frequent reason for a decrease in filter power is severe contamination of the filter materials inside the filter. As a rule, this occurs when the external filter is rarely serviced, when the aquarium is heavily loaded with fish, or when keeping those fish species that put a significant load on the aquarium (large carnivorous fish, American cichlids, large goldfish, tri-hybrid parrots, etc.). In this case, it is necessary to reduce the time interval between washing the filter. It should also be remembered that some long-lasting filter media are not recommended for bagging because dirt deposits build up on these bags much faster, which, in addition to reducing the power of the external filter, minimizes the efficiency of these filter media. Another reason for a drop in external filter performance could be a clogged filter pump. In this case, it is necessary to clean the rotor chamber, the rotor itself and the cover from dirt deposits. Another common reason for a canister filter to drop in power is the connection of additional devices on the hose system - for example, an ultraviolet sterilizer. It should be noted that these devices in some cases, as well as if installed incorrectly, can significantly reduce the flow of water. However, it should not be assumed that the installation of a sterilizer is definitely impossible on an external filter hose. You just need to do it correctly, but more on that in another material. The last group of problems that I would like to talk about in this material is the presence of air in the filter. It is also a fairly common problem, which, as a rule, results in increased filter noise, and in the future can lead to damage to some components. The appearance of air in the filter can be caused by the fact that the junction of the telescopic filter tube is above the water level. As a result, air is drawn in through the junction. Often this problem occurs during water changes, when the aquarist does not monitor how much the water level has dropped. If for some reason it is necessary to significantly reduce the water level, in order to avoid this problem, simply disconnect the filter from the network.	Blocks for connecting taps of various filters
A similar reason may be a leak in the connection of hoses with nozzles or taps (cock block), as well as damage to the hoses themselves, as a result of which air is also sucked in during operation of the external filter. In some cases, the appearance of excess air inside the filter may be due to the fact that the external filter itself is installed too high in relation to the water level. Remember that the filter should be located well below the water level, but not less than 20 cm, taking the top edge of the filter pump head as a level. The most common reason for air to enter the external filter is the proximity of the air atomizer to the intake pipe. The problem is solved by increasing the distance between the intake tube and the atomizer. I recommend that this distance be at least 10-15 cm. Another reason for the appearance of air in the filter may be a high resistance to water flow due to severe contamination of the filter materials inside the filter or excessively dense stuffing of individual baskets with coarse-pored or fine-pored aquarium synthetic winterizers. The solution to the problem would be to clean the filter media and fill the baskets less densely if the cause was due to excessive density of the media. It should be borne in mind that in any aquarium water contains dissolved air, which over time can accumulate in small quantities in the filter head. This air can be removed by rocking the working filter from side to side several times until air bubbles escape. The same procedure should sometimes be performed when restarting the filter or when starting the filter for the first time, because there is residual air in the pores in the filter materials even after the filter is filled and for several minutes, and sometimes even an hour, it rises to the filter head, which can cause increased noise background his works

Summing up all the above, we can say the following. There are no super-serious problems when working with external filters. Do not be afraid of them or do not trust the reliability of the filters themselves. As a rule, all the problems that arise are the result of the actions or inactions of the aquarists themselves. Of course, technical defects occur due to the fault of the manufacturers, but in this case, you always have the right to apply for a warranty appeal to the seller of this equipment. When writing this article, I deliberately avoided mentioning manufacturers of external filters, as well as their specific models in order to avoid advertising or anti-advertising of a particular device, so that this article would be as informative as possible.

Thus we have considered all possible options filtration of water in the aquarium. It is up to you to decide which filter is better and which filter is better to choose. I took a hinged inner with aeration with two sponges. See you on our pages! Subscribe to the blog to receive interesting and useful information!

An external filter, especially if it has a large capacity, is extremely important for an aquarium. When choosing a model of equipment, you need to take into account the quality and method of work. But, besides this, you should choose the appropriate model depending on the volume of the aquarium. How to choose an external filter and how to install a filter in an aquarium can be found in the article.

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External filter characteristic

This unit is designed for one purpose - filtration. It can be mechanical, chemical and even biological, so aquarium filters are universal. The best aquarium filters come with an autostart mechanism. This means that they are easy to fill and start working right on the spot.

Principle of operation

Water purification equipment consists of a hermetic type canister. It should be installed outside the aquarium and connected at the inlet and outlet with a hose. Waste from the aquarium is drained into the sewer thanks to sewer pipe that leads from the aquarium. Inside the canister, water undergoes several types of treatment, including chemical.

They are bigger and more powerful on their own. They can accommodate more filter material and offer better cleaning and supporting more fish. That is why most aquarists buy these filters for large tanks, for example, 200 liters.

Advantages and disadvantages

External devices are produced by many companies, so the disadvantages can be different. If it is budgetary, it can wear out in 1-2 years, occasionally leaks can occur. Better fixtures cost a lot of money.

There are many advantages:

Does not take up space in the aquarium. Thanks to this, more decorations or equipment can be added.
It can be removed from the eyes, for example, put in a cabinet. But you need to take into account the size of the structure.
very convenient, because you just need to disconnect it from the tubes.
It is important that you can use the filter in large aquariums with 200 liters of water. Therefore, fillers can be different.

The cons include:

Volumetric.
We must not forget that at high power the tube can suck a small fish inside. To prevent this from happening, a mesh must be put on the end of the tube.

Criterias of choice

The filter is the basis of the aquarium, because it purifies the water and enriches it with oxygen. When choosing it, you should take into account, because for small tanks you can purchase an internal filter, for large tanks - with a volume of 200 liters - an external one.

Tetra

The Tetra external filter is one of the most popular.

This is due to the benefits:

it is comfortable and simple design, which will be clear to any aquarist;
some models are able to work absolutely silently, others - with little noise.

The disadvantages include plastic tubes that are installed at the inlet and outlet of the filter. Such material requires careful handling and does not tolerate heavy loads.

Eheim

The Eheim external filter is also popular because of its affordable price and user-friendly design.

Eheim external filters have many advantages:

Water, traveling through the levels of the canister, passes through all stages of purification.
The absence of additional buttons, including those for quick start and tubes, guarantees protection against leakage.
Models of this brand can be used for marine aquariums.

At the same time, some pluses can turn into minuses:

Eheim external filters will occasionally have to be run in a strange way. Holding the outlet hose from the filter in your mouth, you need to take a big breath inside the tube.
The noise level is quite low, but still different from most other brands.

JBL

Some external JBL filters are used in aquariums up to 200 liters of water, others up to 800 - there are a lot of options, which is why filters of this brand are attractive.

Of course, the benefits don't stop there:

they can save energy consumption
works silently, which can not but rejoice.

Reviews of aquarists say that it is worth buying fillers, for example, filter sand, separately.

aquael

The Aquael external filter of Polish production cannot but inspire confidence.

Its advantages:

Noiselessness. Even the most powerful models will not disturb your hearing.
Contains all modern options for external filters.
Canisters are equipped with wheels (filled with water, they are by no means light).

The disadvantages of this brand include perhaps the volume of the canister. Perhaps there is not enough space for it in the cabinet and you will have to install equipment next to the aquarium.

The main element of aquarium equipment is a filter responsible for mechanical and biological water purification. The most popular in recent years are external models that are efficient and equally suitable for aquariums of various sizes. By correctly installing the filter in the aquarium, you can not only keep various demanding tropical fish, but also create optimal conditions for hydrobionts.

The main element of aquarium equipment is a filter responsible for mechanical and biological water purification.

Equipment Description

If in the recent past, most filters performed only mechanical purification of water from suspended matter and other contaminants, today equipment of this type allows you to solve problems with nitrates, nitrites and ammonia, providing optimal living conditions for even the most demanding tropical fish.

The design of the aquarium filter is simple and consists of the following components:

water pump;
housing with filter cassettes;
compartment with sponges and filler for biofiltration;
faucets with tubes for water inlet and outlet.

The principle of operation of such equipment is extremely simple. The water pump used creates a vacuum in the suction tube, which is immersed in water. From the nozzle, water is supplied to the filter housing, which passes through the sponges and compartments with biofiltration media, after which it is directed under pressure to the aquarium through the appropriate hose.

To date, two main types of aquarium filters have gained popularity:

internal;
outdoor.

The internal filter units also include bottom filter units that can be placed under the ground, which allows you to solve problems with detritus and various contaminants that accumulate in sand and small pebbles at the bottom.

External filters include classic options with baskets and the so-called backpacks, which are intended mostly for low-power aquariums and are mounted on the back wall, providing high-quality mechanical water purification and aeration.

Internal filters

Internal filters are simple in design, have a low power water pump and are designed for aquariums up to 100 liters. The main purpose of such equipment is the purification of aquarium water from suspensions and other mechanical impurities. Most models do not even have a compartment for biochemical cleaning, so they are designed for aquariums where water changes are performed on a regular basis.

Internal filters are simple in design, have a low power water pump and are designed for aquariums up to 100 liters.

Such a device is located inside the aquarium and is compact in size. The pump used usually has a capacity of 300-500 liters per hour. Some modifications have a special air valve for simultaneous aeration and dissolution of oxygen necessary for fish and other hydrobionts in water.

The advantages of internal filters include their minimal energy consumption, water purification efficiency in a small aquarium, affordable cost and ease of installation. Among the shortcomings, there is a lack of biochemical purification, as well as the impossibility of using such devices in large aquariums.

Installing an internal filter is not difficult. It is necessary to determine the place where the cleaning pump will be located. Typically, internal filters are sold unassembled, so it will need to be assembled in accordance with the instructions, while following some guidelines:

Attach the filter to the suction cup, positioning it so that the top is approximately 3 centimeters deeper than the surface.
The pump can only be immersed in water by disconnecting it from the electricity.
The air intake tube is brought out and additionally fixed so that it does not end up under water.
Plug the pump into the outlet and check for the presence of a current, which indicates the correct assembly and installation of the device.

You can adjust the pump power, and, consequently, the filtration efficiency, using a small damper on the outlet pipe. This setting is best done with the power off.

Proper pump maintenance

The aquarist will not only need to correctly connect and install the internal filter, but also provide it with proper care. Such equipment maintenance is carried out at least once a week.

It is necessary to regularly clean the filter sponge from dirt by rinsing it under running water. Do not turn off the electricity supply at night, as this can lead to the death of fish. Before putting your hands into the water, be sure to turn off the pump. The filter should only work when fully immersed in water.

If you follow these simple rules for caring for equipment, it will last for many years, effectively purifying water and without causing any trouble during its operation.

Equipment maintenance should be performed at least once a week.

External Models

Introduced several decades ago, external filters have become very popular with aquarists. Thanks to the increased dimensions of the compartment with filter elements, it is possible to provide high-quality mechanical and biological chemical treatment water. Inside such a filter is a filler, on the surface of which colonies of nitrifying bacteria settle. They perform biochemical purification, removing nitrates, nitrites, ammonia and other dangerous contaminants from the water that can be detrimental to tropical fish.

Today on sale you can find various models external filters, which differ in the volume of the filler, pump power and a number of other characteristics. Accordingly, based on the performance of the pump and the volume of the filler, you should choose a filter for a particular aquarium. By choosing the right parameters for such equipment, it will be possible to ensure the maintenance of a stable biosystem in the aquarium, providing tropical fish with optimal conditions for keeping.

The products of the following manufacturers are the most popular in the domestic market:

Eheim;
fluval;
Sera.

Among the shortcomings of external filters, it is customary to note their high cost, bulkiness and the need to solve problems with equipment noise. The latter will be especially critical if the technique is chosen for the aquarium, which is located in the bedroom near the bed. The most silent, reliable and efficient filters from the German manufacturer Eheim are considered.

Installing a filter in an aquarium is not particularly difficult, you just need to think about where such equipment will be located. Usually it is placed in a cabinet under the aquarium, for which holes are drilled in the back wall of the furniture necessary for laying hoses.

The filter will need to be assembled in full accordance with the instructions. All sponges and a special substrate for biochemical water purification are placed inside the filter. The aquarium has tubes for inlet and outlet, which must be under water. It is necessary to properly install the filter in the aquarium, placing such equipment below the bottom level, which will ensure maximum efficiency of the pump.

The filter should be put in its permanent place, after which, using a mechanical hand pump, bleed the system, trying to remove as much air as possible from the housing and tubes. A few presses of the hand pump will be enough, after which the water will flow by gravity along the inlet pipe, squeezing the air out of the filter. As soon as the body is completely filled with water, the air will stop escaping and the exhaust pipe. After that, you can turn on the equipment in the network and check the effectiveness of its operation.

The filter will need to be assembled in full accordance with the instructions.

If the filter does not start or runs at minimum power, this indicates airing of the system, respectively, it will be necessary to remove air from the housing and tubes. To do this, already with the filter turned on, press the button of the hand pump several times, which allows you to expel air from the system.

Inside the case may not remain a large number of air that will gurgle and make noise. To completely get rid of such small bubbles, gently lift the filter and tilt it from side to side.

Out on your full power, the machine immediately begins to perform mechanical water purification. But biochemical filtration, when nitrates and nitrites are removed, begins about a month after the start of the equipment. During this time, colonies of nitrifying bacteria, which are responsible for the chemical purification of water, will settle on the substrate used. That is why, if possible, fish, especially demanding tropical species, should be stocked a few weeks after installing an external filter in the aquarium.

Operation and care

During operation, external filters do not cause any trouble to their owners. The aquarist should only remember that it is strictly forbidden to turn off the equipment at night. If, for any reason, the electricity in the house was turned off for 12 hours or more, then the nitrifying bacteria on the substrate die, and the aquarium will need to be restarted. Such equipment should work around the clock, which will ensure high-quality purification of aquarium water.

The aquarist should only remember that it is strictly forbidden to turn off the equipment at night.

Caring for an external filter is not difficult. Once a month, you should open the case and rinse the sponges from existing contaminants. Such work is carried out as quickly as possible and takes 5-10 minutes. After washing the sponges, you will also need to bleed the system from air, for which a hand pump is used, which expels unnecessary air from the tubes.

Approximately once a year, a major flush of the system is performed. For such work, 10-15 liters of water should be drained from the aquarium into a small basin. The filter is disconnected from the power supply, disassembled, all fillers are washed in a basin of water, after which the cleaning equipment is assembled in the reverse order. Such work is usually not difficult and takes 20-30 minutes on the strength.

Installing an internal or external aquarium filter is quite simple. It is only necessary to determine the location, be careful when assembling, turn on the device in the network only after the complete installation of the equipment. In the future, it will be necessary to properly maintain the equipment, washing it regularly, and avoiding a long power outage, which subsequently leads to the need to restart the filter and the entire aquarium.

Instruction

Find the right filter for your aquarium from a specific manufacturer. Thanks to right choice, you will get rid of further problems with filters.

Immerse the internal filter in water, completely, so that it is covered with water from above to a depth of about ten to fifteen millimeters.

Attach the internal filter to the walls of the aquarium. They usually have Velcro, thanks to which they are attached to the walls of the aquarium. This will help fix it at a certain level and not move in one direction or the other.

Install the filter so that the tube to which the hose is attached comes out. This will help clean up and give your fish a clean environment to live in. Waste water exits through this tube, which enters through a sponge located at the end of the filter tube.

Plug the filter into a power outlet for it to start working. Don't forget about safety precautions, including it by checking how it works.

Check if the internal filter works on your . To do this, you need to bring your hand to the upper outlet, if you feel a stream of water, the filter functions as it should. Take a few minutes to see if it works correctly.

Put the fish in the aquarium and see if they are comfortable with. If everything is in order and it works as it should, you can continue to enjoy your pets. The main thing is not to forget to feed them and keep them clean. A clean environment will help them extend their life to the maximum and, thereby, please you longer.

note

When buying an aquarium, do not forget that in addition to peace from it, you will also take care of its inhabitants and their habitat, that is, the aquarium. Keep it clean regularly.

An aquarium with fish is not only an element of home decor. It has long been proven that watching the behavior of fish swimming there, behind glass, calms and relaxes. Thus, the aquarium can play the role of a stress reliever.

Filtration should be in every aquarium, otherwise the fish in dirty water will not live long. purify water from inorganic substances, remove organic compounds and other substances dissolved in it from water, provide water circulation and enrich it with oxygen.

Instruction

Internal filters:
Aerolifts are the simplest devices that raise water in a tube from the bubbles created. Such filters are almost completely immersed in, almost to the very bottom. Airlifts are installed in small aquariums, spawning and nursery for.
glass filters. A plastic "glass" with a substrate for filtration inside is attached to the electric pump. Such filters often play the role of water aerators.
Multi-section internal filters are like boxes divided into sections. Such filters combine several filters at once. And each section has its own filtering. Such filters are attached to the walls. True, they have a significant drawback - they are large in size.
Bottom set at the bottom of the aquarium. A plate or several connected plates are placed on the bottom, covered. Bottom filters usually play the role of auxiliary filters.

External filters multi-section and canister.
Canister filters are installed outside the aquarium and communicate with it through water intake and return hoses. Very roomy. Supports all types of filtering. Some models are equipped with a heater.
Multi-section external filters are very similar to their internal counterparts, only they are installed outside the aquarium.

the photo shows the rules for planting aquarium plants

1. Low-growing (ground cover) plants are planted in the foreground, long-stemmed plants in the background.

2. Plants are processed before planting, rotten leaves are removed, the roots are cut, leaving 2-3 cm.

3. Ground cover plants and undersized plants are planted in wet soil (a little water is poured), then the aquarium is still filled, and middle and background plants are planted.

4. If a large number of plants are being planted (which can take a long time) a spray bottle can be used to periodically spray the already planted plants.

5. big plants can be planted in the hole with your hands, ground cover with tweezers.

6. Plants with red pigment are placed in the most illuminated areas.

7. Mosses are tied to stones and snags with fishing line or thread.

After planting, we applied the required amount of Tetra PlantaStart under the roots of the plants with tweezers - the tablets contribute to the rooting and adaptation of the newly planted plant. Please note that these tablets can be divided into quarters and applied depending on the size of the bush.

At the end of the planting, the aquarium was completely filled with water.

Sometimes, in the first month, whitish mucus can form on a snag that has been drowned in an aquarium - this is organic matter, a phenomenon that is also not terrible, but it says that the snag was not fully processed. Such mucus will disappear soon, but still it can be removed mechanically or, for example, by getting catfish that will clean off this mucus.

Also, a novice aquarist should not worry that in an aquarium filled with water it will not be possible to plant plants or change their location. In the future, you can easily make adjustments.

Additional materials for this section:

Use of starting chemistry when starting an aquarium.

After the aquarium was filled with water, we introduced three basic starting preparations:

TetraAquaSafe- binds heavy metals, completely neutralizes chlorine and creates environment, as close as possible to the natural habitat of fish. Colloidal silver solution protects the mucous membranes of fish, while magnesium and vitamin B1 reduce the stress effect.

TetraSafeStart- contains specially grown live nitrifying bacteria that reliably reduce the levels of toxic ammonia and nitrite in the aquarium.

TetraEasyBalance- stabilizes pH and carbonate hardness (KH) of water, removes phosphorus, supplements with various vitamins, trace elements and minerals, reduces the number of water changes. Provides a healthy habitat for your plants and fish in freshwater aquariums.

These drugs are essential for the maintenance of the aquarium, especially in the first month. Their use is actually the key to success and the absence of problems after launch. All these drugs have a different focus, but together they most effectively adjust the biological balance in the aquarium.

Features of keeping an aquarium with plants, nuances and tricks.

So, we launched an aquarium! With every hour, every day, the aquarium begins to "ripen" - begins new life! Millions of microorganisms (bacteria, fungi, protozoa) begin to develop, plants begin to adapt, filtration and aeration of the aquarium are carried out, photons of light begin to feed the plants, which, in turn, begin to release oxygen during photosynthesis - this wonderful world created by you! And as a creator, you must understand that this world must develop, there must not be stagnation in it.

Below we will share "easy tricks" that you should learn and put into practice.

Since we created an aquarium herbalist, we must clearly understand the components that are necessary for a comfortable life in an aquarium garden, here they are:

PROPER LIGHTING

FERTILIZERS

(CO2, micro and macro fertilizers)

CORRECT CARE

(correctly configured filtration, aeration)

PROPER LIGHTING

The issue of lighting an aquarium with live aquarium plants is important and extensive. Lighting is the key to good plant growth! It is important to understand this fact.

To understand all the intricacies of lighting for plants, our articles will help you:

Of course, this material for a beginner will be difficult at first. But you only have to figure it out once and everything will fall into place.

It is worth noting that, in fact, the issue of lighting is not a problem, it is only important to understand “what and how much” you need exactly for your herbalist. And then, you just need to buy and install the selected option of additional lighting - it can be additional fluorescent lamps connected through or it can be and, it can be a MG LED spotlight.

In this review, we took into account the conditions of keeping our plants, calculated the required number of lumens and supplemented the standard aquarium refreshment. The issue was resolved in one day!

Be sure to study this issue, the above articles will help you with this.

FERTILIZER FOR THE HERBALIST

In addition to lighting, plants need a complex of fertilizers that they consume in the process of photosynthesis. All fertilizers for aquarium plants can be divided into MACRO fertilizers, MICRO fertilizers and emit CO2 (carbon dioxide) separately.

All these fertilizers are presented in.

An important fertilizer for plants is carbon dioxide. The aquarist should first of all think about its sufficient amount. This is due to the fact that micro and macro fertilizers, in one quantity or another, will always be present in the water, even if they are not specially applied - they are in tap water, they are formed as a result of the vital activity of fish. But CO2, alas, will always be missed.

Enrichment of aquarium water with carbon dioxide is carried out in various ways:

MECHANICAL;

CHEMICAL;

FERMENTATION INSTALLATIONS;

In this review, we used a fermenter and Tetra CO2 Plus preparation in our aquarium. And here's the thing, Tetra CO2 Plus, when introduced into aquarium water, breaks down into O2 (oxygen) and CO2 (carboxylic acid) in a form digestible for plants. There are no analogues of this drug, it is not pentandial - an algaecide, more aimed at fighting algae than at feeding CO2 plants. This is not a poison: an overdose of which can cause the death of aquatic organisms.

At the same time, the supply of CO2 through the mash does not always give the proper result - over time, the intensity of carbon dioxide in the mash fades. In order to compensate for this uneven CO2 supply, we will be adding Tetra CO2 Plus based on the readings of the drop checker.

MICRO and MACRO fertilizers for the aquarium.

When growing the herbalist in our review, the following fertilizers were used:

The PlantaPro series has been developed by Tetra for professional plant care. If you are an amateur herbalist, then one Tera PlantaMin will be enough.

In the matter of micro and macro fertilizers, you should pay attention to the fact that their dosage is purely individual. The proportions of these fertilizers are not indicated by the manufacturer and will not be indicated by us either, because. they are calculated for each aquarium by the herbalist personally, based on its volume and size, lighting power, number of plants and parameters of the water itself.

CORRECT CARE

Properly adjusted filtration in a planted aquarium

As previously mentioned, the aquarium complex includes all the necessary basic equipment. Including the internal hinged filter which is quite enough for high-quality filtration of aquarium water is included in the package.

However, in our opinion, external filters are best suited for keeping a herbalist's aquarium. Firstly, because they do not take up space in the aquarium and do not interfere with the construction of the aquarium composition. Secondly, with the help of an external filter, better filtration of the aquarium is achieved. Thirdly, filtration through external filters is quiet, in every sense: the filter itself is silent and the water flow that creates the filter is “quiet” and adjustable.

In our herbalist we used an external filter Tetra EX 600 Plus - the "youngest" in the line of external filters Tetra. Speaking about its qualitative characteristics, it should be said that this is a solid filter, we had no complaints about it. Its equipment is standard. However, it is worth noting three points that pleasantly pleased:

1. Tetra EX 600 Plus is the junior in the Tetra filter line. That is, it has a minimum power and the ability to filter aquarium water for a certain period of time (liters / hour). Many manufacturers of external filters produce a series of "junior" ones with a minimum number of internal compartments, due to their compactness (1-2 compartments). In this case, the Tetra EX 600 Plus filter has three compartments, which is very convenient, as it allows you to use even more filter media.

2. Despite the fact that the Tetra EX 600 Plus is the youngest in the series, it is capable of passing and filtering up to 630 liters per hour. Which is very solid for similar filters (average value 400-550 l/h).

3. Flute (nozzle for uniform distribution of water flow from the filter) is made of transparent plastic. This is very important for the herbalist's aquarium, as the tube does not violate the aesthetics.

What else is good for an external filter for a herbalist? With it, it is very convenient to regulate the air supply and the supply of CO2. When there is no lighting in the aquarium, the filter flute rises above the water level and powerful jets of water create excellent aeration of the aquarium. When the aquarium lighting is turned on, there is no need for air, the flute is lowered into the water and the water current begins to disperse the CO2 bubbles that rise from the diffuser and distribute them throughout the aquarium. That is, thereby improving the quality of water saturation with carbon dioxide.

If, in addition to all this, you get timer sockets and an additional pump for aeration, you can “automate” the aquarium - that is, you will not need to turn the lights on and off, raise and lower the flute yourself. At the appointed time, the light will turn on and off and the pump will turn on at the same time to aerate the aquarium at night.

In conclusion to the issue of aquarium water filtration, it should be said that earlier, when starting the aquarium, we specifically did not use any preparations that reduce the concentration of nitrates in the aquarium (Tetra NitrateMinus Pearls). Precisely because the Tetra EX 600 Plus has three compartments for fillers. And just recently, Tetra launched a new product - special filter media that reduces NO3 concentration.

We simply added a small amount of Tetra Balance Balls to one compartment of the external filter. The issue with excessive concentration of poisons is solved! The advantage of using Tetra Balance Balls for a planted aquarium is that if we need to increase the amount of NO3 (as a fertilizer for plants), we can simply remove a certain part of the balls.

Aquarium care after launch

Once the aquarium has been set up, the aquarist can take a breath and enjoy the first results of his work. However, you should not relax, because the most interesting begins ahead!

The aquarium is interesting because it is not a static picture with fish in a pond. Our site always encourages people to change their attitude towards this amazing hobby and look at it in a new way. Aquarium science is surprising because it is atypical, there are no stereotypes, taboos, clear instructions in it. Each individual aquarium is unique!

In aquarism, perhaps, there is only one rule - you need to learn to see and feel your aquarium. Do not take aquarium problems and failures as a tragedy. As Shakespeare said: "There are no bad, good, there is only what we call it"! You need to perceive everything with curiosity, study the materials, study your aquarium world and, of course, first of all treat everything with love.

Correct adjustment of biological balance.

We are sure that if you stick to what is written in this article, you will succeed! Additionally, we recommend reading the following articles to help you understand the meaning of biobalance in an aquarium:

An aquarium with densely planted plants has its own peculiarity! The biological balance in such an aquarium is adjusted much better.

When starting the aquarium, we used starter preparations - Tetra AquaSafe, Tetra AquaStart, Tetra EasyBalance. The use of these drugs is the key to success and virtually negates all the problems associated with the establishment of biological balance in the first month after the launch of the aquarium.

As can be seen from the tables and videos, using these drugs, we actually immediately take control of nitrogen cycle and the breakdown of ammonia products, as well as turning tap water into habitable aquarium fish.

Caring for an aquarium with plants in the first month.

By general rule, the aquarium in the first month does not require cleaning, changing the water and siphoning the aquarium bottom! These rules also apply to an aquarium with plants. But it is worth noting that keeping an aquarium with plants, you must be prepared for a constant struggle with algae, or rather, their oppression. In the first month after starting the aquarium, algae can be very annoying to the aquarist. This is due to the fact that the biobalance has not yet been adjusted, the planted plants have not yet grown stronger, at the same time, bright and powerful lighting can cause the growth of the lower flora.

When green algae appear on the walls and decorations of the aquarium, we do not recommend using any algaecides - algae preparations in the first month. It is better to simply clean them off with a sponge, a special scraper or an unnecessary plastic card.

Use of fertilizers for plants in the first month.

An important component of the successful maintenance of a herbalist is the correct application of fertilizers for plants in the right proportions.

In the first month of the life of the aquarium, we do not recommend "zealous" with fertilizers. Firstly, because when starting the aquarium, a nutrient substrate was laid, and secondly, Tetra PlantaStart and Crupto tablets were used. - this will be sufficient for newly planted plants. In the future, taking into account the condition of the aquarium, apply liquid and / or tablet fertilizers, starting with small doses. See how the aquarium behaves in the future, adjust the dosage.

Always remember that an overabundance of fertilizers can always be taken advantage of by plant competitors - algae! It is for this reason that in aquariums with lush plants (scapes) frequent and high-quality replacement of aquarium water is carried out (from ¼ to ½ part of the volume per week). By changing the water, we remove excess accumulated fertilizers, leveling their accumulation.

Aquarium lighting in the first month - daylight hours.

Aquarium lighting is an important tool for regulating plant growth and biobalance in general. Excess lighting leads to the growth of algae, its lack leads to poor plant condition.

After starting the aquarium, we strongly do not recommend immediately applying the generally accepted daylight pattern of 10-14 hours a day !!! In the first month, aquarium lighting should be dosed and increased gradually. Let's say in the first week 5 hours, in the second 6 hours, in the third 8 hours and so on until the norm - balance.

Temperature regime for the aquarium.

It must always be remembered that aquarium plants, like fish, need a stable temperature. Do not allow sudden changes in temperature.

It should also be borne in mind that most aquarium plants do not like high temperatures. General norm 24-25 degrees.

OUR FIRST MONTH REPORT

A month has passed since the launch of our aquarium. During this time, we have done one complete change of aquarium water in 1/3 of the volume, as there was a small outbreak of algae, expressed in the formation of green dots on the front wall of the aquarium. With a sponge, two light cleanings of the walls of the aquarium were made. From the second week we started to apply liquid fertilizers of the Pro series from Tetra in minimum quantities of 1 ml. three times per week. A week later, the dosage was slightly increased. Fourth week fertilizer dosage ~ 1.5-2.0 ml. Pro every other day + 1/2 dose of Tetra PlantaMin + CO2 Plus.

Plant growth. Naturally, the first to “get well” after planting were unpretentious plants. By the second week, an obvious growth was noticeable: Ludwigia obna, Ludwigia ovalis, Aponogeton, Balsamic Hygrophila, Proserpinaki. By the fourth week, I had to thin out: ludwigia, apnogeton. First harvest ;)

More whimsical plants have also mastered, but naturally, due to their natural qualities, they do not give rapid growth. Pleases blix japonica - one of the "harmful plants". Alternatera colorata red - beetroot color, noticeably stretched out.

I am very pleased with the mosses, in a month they shook off all the dust that formed when the aquarium was started and fluffed up.

At the moment, the daylight hours are 9 hours, the lighting is powerful, with a margin, so we additionally put some specialized peat in the filter compartment of the TetraEX 600 Plus, which gave a natural shading of the aquarium, a slight decrease in pH and kH.

Finally, we would like to share with you one interesting way to remove nitrites and nitrates from an aquarium - using. Many aquarists create a phytofilter over the aquarium, where expanded clay is poured and planted houseplants. We offer you a "light version" of phytofiltration. The fact is that the aquarium cover, which is included in the complex Tetra AquaArt Discover Line 60L- very convenient and has three "windows".

So, if you are not eager to build the gardens of Babylon, fiddle with lighting, or just want a cichlid! Then you can buy "bamboo", sold in any large, flower shop. In fact, this is not bamboo, but Sander's dracaena - a percariously growing plant that develops in water. Three or four branches of dracaena placed in an aquarium will draw out poisons: nitrites and nitarts, and look great above it.

Dracaena over the aquarium

Video of our aquarium

Conclusion

We hope that this material was useful for you! As you can see, the maintenance of an aquarium with plants has its own specifics, the key to the success of maintaining such an aquarium is perseverance, patience, prudence and a burning desire to achieve the intended goals.