Women's happiness flower as it multiplies. Possible problems and difficulties

12.06.2019

Spathiphyllum from the Aroid family (Araceae) comes from the tropical forests of South America. These plants are adherents of a warm and humid climate. Very beautiful, evergreen, with a white elegant flower on a yellow-green cob. Spathiphyllum is one of my favorite plants. At proper care it will always delight with bright green glossy leaves and elegant white flowers. In the people, this flower is called "women's happiness."

It is believed that if a woman gets him at home, then happiness and harmony will always live in her house. And if a young girl got this plant as a gift, then soon she will meet the love of her life.

First weeks at home

It is best, especially at first, to place the plant in a semi-shady or shady place. Spathiphyllums do not tolerate bright sunlight, they can burn the leaves. If there is too much light for spathiphyllum, then the leaves become pale green, losing their juiciness.

Care

Spathiphyllum care cannot be called difficult, this plant is very unpretentious. In order for the spatiffilum to have bright, juicy foliage and bloom well, several rules must be followed.

The north, northwest side is well suited for the location of the flower.

Spathiphyllum feels great in the shade floor and does not tolerate open sunlight. But this does not mean that the plant must be placed in the darkest corner. In a too dark room, the leaves of the spathiphyllum begin to shrink and stretch, becoming more oblong, this indicates a lack of light.

In this case, you need to find a new place for him. Spathiphyllum does not like dry rooms.

Since spathiphyllum is a tropical flower, it prefers fairly high humidity. Therefore, on the second day of your stay, start spraying it, preferably twice a day in the morning and evening. To keep the foliage beautiful, you can wipe it with a damp cloth every 2 days, so the plant receives additional moisture and is cleaned of dust.

It is very important that the earth in the pot also does not dry out, it must always be moist at the depth of one finger phalanx. During the period when the plant has abundant flowering, it is necessary not to forget to cut off the old inflorescences. They take in too much moisture, thereby inhibiting the emergence of new flowers. If you purchased a spathiphyllum in a plastic shipping pot, it will need to be transplanted after 2 weeks.

Watering

Since the plant is still tropical, it needs abundant watering and high humidity.

Particular attention should be paid to watering during flowering, in spring and summer. Overdrying the earthy coma leads to the death of the plant.

For watering and spraying it is necessary to use only settled water (at least 12 hours).

The most important signal of a lack of water for a plant is its drooping leaves. But if after watering for several hours the leaves do not rise, then most likely the room has very low humidity.

In such cases, the plant must be moved to another place or bowls with wet claydite should be arranged under a pot with spathiphyllum.

During the period of heating appliances, watering should be increased.

Bloom

Spathiphyllum flowering is quite long and, with proper care, can continue. all year round. The most important aspect for good flowering is the right place, moisture and nutritious soil.

In order for the spathiphyllum to bloom again, it is advisable to keep it indoors for 2-3 months at 20 degrees, but not lower than 16. And start increasing watering, fertilizing and air humidity. Subject to these rules, the spathiphyllum will delight you with its delicate, white flowers.

top dressing

It is worth feeding the plant during the period abundant flowering often in spring and summer, once a week. In winter and the off-season, the interval between top dressing should be increased to 2-3 weeks.

It is the lack of minerals at the end of winter, at the beginning of spring that can affect the lack of formation of flowering ovaries. It is worth using an all-purpose fertilizer or fertilizer for flowering plants. It must be remembered that fertilizer should only be applied to moist soil, after watering, otherwise you can burn the rhizome of the plant.

Transfer

Spathiphyllum should be transplanted once a year or two, it is better to do this at the end of winter, before flowering, or in the fall after. The soil is selected universal, slightly acidic. The pot should be chosen a little more than the previous one.

reproduction

Reproduction of spathiphyllum occurs during the period of plant transplantation, by dividing the bush. Spathiphyllum grows quickly enough and forms new rosettes. When transplanting, it is necessary that each bush has its own core. The division of the bush is best done in the same way in the spring.

What is the most dangerous for spathiphyllum

Overdrying an earthen coma leads to the death of the plant. The leaves become lethargic, lowered down. Rooms with open heating devices should be avoided. No need to put the plant near the battery. Low humidity leads to drying of the leaves, the tips turn yellow. Spathiphyllum is also afraid of direct sunlight, the leaves can get serious burns.

Pests

The most common pests on spathiphyllum: spider mites, thrips, mealybugs.

Spathiphyllum is a beautiful indoor plant that attracts the eye with unusually juicy green leaves and a beautiful inflorescence: a cream cob with a white veil - a sail at the base. The plant does not require abundant sunlight, prefers partial shade, does not like abundant feeding. The ease of care, cultivation and reproduction allows the spathiphyllum to take its rightful place among other indoor flowers.

There are some features of the propagation of spathiphyllum at home. This article gives useful advice on how plants reproduce. The most accessible and common are: propagation of spathiphyllum by dividing the bush and cuttings. Seed propagation is possible. The method of propagation by a spathiphyllum leaf is not found in the literature.

Reproduction by seeds

Immediately make a reservation, propagation by seeds is a very laborious process. At home, it is difficult to artificially pollinate a flower, get seeds, and create conditions for their ripening. The germination of spathiphyllum seeds is very low and quickly lost. If you still managed to get spathiphyllum seeds, you can try this breeding method.

Seeds are sown in a greenhouse in moist soil, consisting of sand and peat. Care should be taken to keep the soil constantly moist, but not wet. When seedlings appear, they need to be periodically aired by slightly opening the greenhouse. This method reproduction is possible, but not recommended for reproducing spathiphyllum at home, as it is difficult and not always effective.

cuttings

The vegetative method of propagation of spathiphyllum is the most acceptable at home. Cuttings are a small collection of young leaves at the base of the mother plant with the rudiments of the root system.

It is best to root cuttings in spring and summer time. Rosettes of cuttings are carefully separated from the mother plant. For rooting use containers with wet sand. Cuttings root well in moistened perlite. In order for the roots to grow well, the cuttings are placed in a mini greenhouse.

When well-developed roots appear, the cuttings are planted in the prepared earthen mixture. Peat, sand, leaf, humus and garden soil are mixed in equal proportions. Young plants are watered.

By dividing the bush

The most convenient and common way to propagate spathiphyllum is to divide the bush. The plant grows, forms many young rosettes with leaves and requires an annual transplant. At this time, you can divide the mother plant into separate parts. This must be done very carefully, without damaging the root system. Otherwise, young plants will not take root. If there are no roots on the delenki, they should be put in water until the roots appear and only then planted in the ground.

Each division must have at least 3 leaves and its own core. Plants should not be planted in flower pots of large diameters. The root system will "fatten" until it occupies the entire space of the pot. In this case, the flowering of spathiphyllum will have to wait a very long time.

Plants are planted in a special ready-made soil for aroid plants. You can prepare the soil mixture yourself, as described above. A layer of expanded clay is necessarily laid at the bottom of the pot. He serves well drainage system when watering. Expanded clay retains moisture well and does not allow the roots to dry out quickly.

When planting delenok, the root neck of the plant should not be buried. With a large depth, you can not wait for the flowering of the spathiphyllum. The process of reproduction by dividing the bush should occur at a temperature not lower than 20 degrees.

The ease of caring for the plant and the fabulous beauty raise the spathiphyllum to the podium among your favorite pets. Using simple methods of plant propagation, you can please yourself, your friends and relatives with new specimens of this indoor flower, unsurpassed in beauty.

Indoor plants decorate our home, create a feeling of coziness and comfort. They are like any living particle the globe, are filled with life, therefore they require attention, care, and careful attitude. There are a lot of them, but each one remains unique and unrepeatable, and this is their charm. In this article we will talk about such a flower as spathiphyllum, or as people like to call it - “women's happiness”.

There is a belief that this plant can bring happiness. They say that if it blooms in the house where a lonely girl lives, then she will certainly meet her half. Well, in a house with an established family, it will bring strength, tranquility and reliability.

Spathiphyllum is a tropical plant that is evergreen. There are 45 species in total, 6 species are common indoor: spoon-shaped, domino, wallis, floriferous, charming, sensation. The flower is beautiful in appearance, it will easily complement any interior. It blooms only a few times a year, and only under conditions of proper care. I will reveal everything you need to know and what to follow for the normal growth and development of the plant.

Flower female happiness: care

Spathiphyllum does not require too much attention. It is enough to water and spray the plant on time, in addition, the flower is very smart, it makes it clear when it needs water, lowering its leaves down.

In the summer, you need to water it often, about every other day, in the winter - several times a week. I recommend using filtered or settled water.

Because the plant is tropical, it loves warmth. But here it is important to determine the correct thermal and light conditions, the ideal temperature would be 18-25 degrees. The sun's rays have a detrimental effect, the leaves become dry and wither, and if the leaves, on the contrary, are pulled up, but flowering does not occur, more lighting is needed. With a lack of light, the foliage will become pale in color. It is desirable to spray every day, but at the same time, make sure that water does not get on the flowers! You can also clean it with a damp cloth from dust and other external contamination.

The flower propagates very simply: the usual division of the bush and the root system. Flower growers use the method for propagation - with pieces of the root, but beginners will not be able to cope with this, as they can damage the main plant by incorrectly dividing the mother root. The leaf is not able to reproduce!

The best time for reproduction and transplantation - spring. First you need to prepare the soil: soddy land (2 parts), peat (1 part), humus (1 part) and sand (1 part). There must be good drainage at the bottom of the pot.

How to transplant a flower female happiness

A spathiphyllum transplant occurs once a year, in the spring, but if you just bought a plant, it needs an urgent transplant. In stores, as a rule, it is sold in plastic containers, for ease of transportation, but it will not be able to grow and reproduce under these conditions.

So, we start transplanting a flower by buying a new pot. It should be slightly larger in diameter than the previous one. Make sure that the room temperature is not lower than 20 degrees. To make it easier to remove the plant from the pot - water it about an hour before transplanting. We put the pot on the barrel and, with gentle tapping movements, separate the root system from it, to make it easier, you can use a metal spatula or knife, but proceed with extreme caution. Carefully remove decayed particles from the roots, and shorten too long. If you want to propagate, then separate parts of the roots together with the leaves.

We pre-prepare the pot: we close the drainage hole with small particles of brick (broken), expanded clay or shards, then lay the substrate (prepared in advance) and sprinkle on top with a thin layer of soil. We fix the flower in a pot, while adding the following portions of the earth, so that it fits snugly against the walls. We tamp the earth with our fingers until it is level with the leaves.

At the end of the procedure, water the stapiphyllum abundantly and put it in a dark place for 7 days, but spray the leaves daily. After a week, we return the flower to the familiar, bright part of the house.

Attention! A flower in the process of flowering can not be transplanted!

Spathiphyllum disease and treatment

The main cause of the disease of this plant are pests: mealybug, spider mite, aphid, soot fungus, scale insect.

Mealy bug

Appears when elevated level dampness and hides between the leaves, so periodically inspect the flower. If a small number of insects are detected, you can get rid of them by wiping the leaves with an alcohol solution or an infusion of citrus peels.

spider mite

The greatest threat to spathiphyllum. The pest appears on the foliage, covers it with cobwebs. As a result, the plant gradually dries out. For treatment, it is enough to remove the cobweb by treating the leaves with a non-concentrated solution of soap. In more serious cases, more effective means will be needed: insecticides, ground sulfur.

Aphid

The aphid originates on the lower part of the foliage and feeds on the juice of "female happiness". If the plant is left untreated, the leaves curl and dry out. Treatment: 1 gram of nicotine sulfate per 1 liter of water and spray liberally on the affected parts.

sooty fungus

Manifested in the blackening of the upper part of the leaves. The disease must be eliminated quickly, since it blocks the breath of the plant, which leads to its death. Treatment: frequent treatment with soapy water.

Shchitovka

Shield aphid (shchitovka) - dark spots on leaves and stems. At the initial stage, the disease is invisible. It is treated by spraying the plant with a tobacco-soap solution mixed with kerosene or alcohol in a small amount.

Prevention of diseases is the frequent "bathing" of the plant with a damp sponge. But the cause is not always pests! Indicators that the plant is sick:

It grows badly. Most likely, the light regime does not correspond to the norm or the humidity of the room and the zone next to the flower is disturbed. It is enough just to rearrange it to a more suitable place;
Dried leaf tips, spots. Non-dangerous yellow-brown spots, this may be the natural overflow of the plant;
Flowers turn black. The reason is excessive fertilizer or waterlogged soil. Treatment: spray the soil with a solution of foundationol 2 grams per 1 liter of water;
Yellow leaves. The reason is simple, either the plant is in contact with direct sunlight, or too much water is used when watering;
Deformed leaves. Curved, elongated, narrow - the reason is the lack of light. Dark places are contraindicated;
There is no flowering. Reasons: lack of top dressing, insufficient moisture, the need for a transplant.

Spathiphyllum does not bloom what to do

Women's happiness blooms only if she experiences a complete sense of comfort. When he is comfortable, warm, all external factors comply with the norms.

Why does not bloom:

the root system did not fill the pot, that is, the pot is too large;
room temperature above 25 degrees;
overabundance or lack of lighting;
draft;
too wet soil;
the need for transplantation, separation of rhizomes;
dry room air;
lack of watering and spraying the plant;
pests and diseases.

By eliminating any of the above reasons, you will enable the plant to exist normally, multiply and bloom.

As you understand, take care of female happiness not difficult at all.

Observe general rules care, and the plant will not give you trouble, but rather will delight your eye with beautiful flowering and beauty.

How to propagate a flower female happiness

The reproduction of this flower occurs in the process of transplantation, by dividing the bush, this is the most common method, which we will consider in more detail.

So, you decide to transplant the flower into a new pot, then at the same time you can divide the spathiphyllum rhizome into several parts to form separate plants. It is best to divide in the spring, in a room with a temperature of at least 20 degrees. Consider the process itself, how to propagate a flower of female happiness.

As you know, the spathiphyllum stalk gives several points of growth, you need to divide all the basal rosettes among themselves, but at the same time make sure that each bush has at least three leaves. Next, you need to plant spathiphyllums in small pots, with a diameter of 12-15 cm. A special earthen mixture for aroids is used as soil, which includes one part each: leafy soil, peat, humus, sand. You can add pieces of tree bark or coal to the mixture. Another mixture for seating is also allowed, in two parts: humus, peat, sand, coniferous and leafy soil.

With information on how to propagate a flower of female happiness, a women's site shared about everything.

In addition to how to propagate a flower of female happiness, you should also know that this procedure is rather difficult for the plant itself to perceive. The division must be done very carefully, since damage to the root system can lead the flower to gradual withering and, in the end, to death. Seated divisions require special attention from you, now they need to gain strength for independent existence, which means pamper them with abundant watering and frequent spraying.

Spathiphyllum care and reproduction.

Spathiphyllum is a perennial, herbaceous plant with dark green peaked leaves 15 to 30 cm long (depending on the variety). The petioles are long, often exceeding the length of the leaf plate itself, and the depressed veins give the leaf a folded appearance. The flowers of the spathiphyllum, like all representatives of the Aroid family, are collected in an inflorescence-cob.

Spathiphyllum is popularly called the flagolist, and the more common name for the flower is FEMALE HAPPINESS.

Spathiphyllum care and reproduction.

Caring for the plant "women's happiness" is quite simple, since the plant is not particularly demanding, it easily puts up with a lack of light, however, it will not bloom as intensively as on bright windows. Spathiphyllum on the north window will feel good. And the lack of lighting is evidenced, first of all, by the stretching of the petioles. A wonderful place for spathiphyllum windows of solar orientation, but in the heat you should definitely shade, because the plant does not like heat.

The temperature is the same all year round - room temperature. With its increase, you should monitor the condition of the earthen coma, it should not dry out in any case! Because the plant can simply die. The dormant period of the spathiphyllum is not pronounced, so the temperature should not be lowered. But female happiness is not reconciled, both with heat and with cold and drafts.

When overflowing, combined with low temperatures, the leaves become covered with brown spots, and when the air is dry, they turn yellow, and then the tips of the leaves turn black (especially in heating season). And if you also dry out the earthen ball, then the plant loses turgor, and it is difficult to restore it. It is advisable to spray the plant often, and once a week to arrange a warm shower.

Spathiphyllum reproduces by dividing the bush. As a rule, a healthy plant is a fairly large colony, and division occurs easily, neither roots nor leaves are damaged, the plant takes root without any problems. Therefore, I believe that the care and reproduction of spathiphyllum directly depend on one another.

It is better to feed with fertilizer for ornamental plants, during the period of active growth of green mass - nitrogen, and with the onset of flowering, increase the dose of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. This will help prolong flowering and keep the overall decorative look.

Transplant female happiness better in spring, in not large and not deep bowls, since the plant will bloom better and more abundantly in a cramped pot or bowl. If the diameter of the pot is 18-20 cm, then replanting every year is not desirable, but only regularly updated upper layer. The soil should be loose and light. It can be made up of humus, leafy soil, sand and peat. It is advisable to add pieces of charcoal and broken bricks. Drainage is required at the bottom (2-3 cm). Or buy ready-made soil mixture. That's the whole secret about the care and reproduction of spathiphyllum.

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Royal flagolus or spathiphyllum - features of caring for women's happiness

Spathiphyllum or "female happiness" comes from the humid South American tropics - this is a real decoration of a home greenhouse, aristocratic and unusual. There is a belief that such a flower is able to revive the lost romance in family relationships or help meet your soul mate. Whether this is so is verified only by experience - which means that you will need to take care of the plant so that it retains its beauty for a long time.

Varietal variety of spathiphyllum

Spathiphyllum flower comes in several forms:

cannolist;
profusely flowering;
Wallace (the most common type, enough large plant, snow-white coverlet of the flower).

There are also hybrid plants obtained in greenhouse conditions - they are larger than natural ones and bloom for a very long time.

Among the hybrids that can be easily bought in flower shops, Mozart, Variegata and Mauna Loa stand out. These plants vary in size and leaf color.

The nuances of caring for a tropical aristocrat

Caring for a spathiphyllum at home may seem difficult - but only until you begin to understand the language of this plant (the flower will signal a change in appearance about each of its “discontents”).

But it is possible and necessary to prevent the moment when the female flower begins to hurt and wither. Basic recommendations for the care of spathiphyllum:

The plant is light-requiring, but it will grow excellently in conditions of partial shade and shade. It is not worth placing it under direct sunlight, the best choice is the north side. It will suffer from an excess of light - the leaves will become pale, lose their color.
Warmth is very important. Its ideal temperature regime is 18-23°C.
Drafts are unacceptable - cold air negatively affects the plant.
Since indoor spathiphyllum comes from the tropics, it is very sensitive to moisture. During the flowering period (spring and summer), abundant watering is required, and in winter time moisten the soil in the pot moderately. The flower gratefully responds to spraying and will not be able to grow normally in conditions of low humidity, and therefore it is imperative to install a pallet with wet moss or sand. Moderately dry air is allowed only in winter, during the dormant period.
The period of regular feeding of the plant is autumn and spring. Fertilize in these seasons should be weekly, using top dressing for flowering. In winter, top dressing is unacceptable, because they will bring the flower out of hibernation.
When the flowers begin to dry out, they must be removed - this will preserve the decorativeness of the plant and allow it to form new inflorescences.

Transplant and reproduction

A spathiphyllum transplant should be done every year and each time a larger container will be required. For soil mix use:

turf;
sheet;
humus;
peat soil;
sand;
brick chips (charcoal).

Different types of soils are combined with sand in a ratio of 2:2:2:2:1.

Good drainage is also important. Replant the plant carefully so as not to damage the fragile roots. If, immediately after transplantation, the flower began to fade, it should be plentifully irrigated 2-3 times a day.

In the process of transplantation, spathiphyllum can also be propagated. There is a method of rooting apical cuttings, but it is laborious and not applicable at home. But reproduction is possible by dividing the bush - one large plant can be divided into several shoots at once, trying to keep as many roots as possible (at least 2.5 cm long) and at least 2-3 healthy leaves on each part. Sluggish leaves must be removed from each division.

Division is recommended to be carried out at a temperature of 20 ° C, since small plants are very sensitive to temperature changes. For one delenka you will need a 15-centimeter pot. The substrate used is the same as for adult plants. You need to take care of the cuttings in the same way as you would for a mature plant - water it in time, do not expose it to the sun and spray it often.

Questions for beginner gardeners - possible problems with the plant

Spathiphyllum is very popular among flower growers and all your questions most likely already have solutions:

Why doesn't the plant bloom? The reason may be waterlogging, insufficient air humidity or lack of nutrients. If the leaves are green and no flowers appear, then you need to wait until the root system grows to the entire pot.
Why do the tips of the leaves turn black? This indicates too much watering. This is evidenced by the formation of brown or yellow spots.
Why dry leaves appear? If you do not regularly spray the leaves, they will become dry. This can also lead to a lack of nutrients in the soil - nitrogen and phosphorus. Leaves that dry must be cut off.
Why do leaves curl and lose color? In this way, the plant signals you about an excess of light or pest damage.

Many plant diseases are caused precisely by pests, which often settle on a flower growing in conditions of excessive moisture. There are only a few main pests:

shield aphid, sucking juice from a plant - when it settles on a flower, dark spots appear on it;
spider mite - a thin cobweb between the leaves indicates that he chose your flower as a home.

Spathiphyllum can be saved if it is sprayed with ready-made insecticides in time, treated with ground sulfur or tobacco infusion.

If you carefully monitor your green pet, then it will very soon please you with an unusual abundant flowering, and maybe it will really attract “female happiness” to the house.

Reviews of flower growers

Maria Rudnitskaya, retired:

“Spathiphyllum is my gift from my son.

I had to tinker with it pretty much (the leaves often dried up), although I got an already formed plant. I shade it from the sun and water it with settled water. Only this year the handsome flower bloomed. It blooms unusually, but, unfortunately, it does not smell.

Stanislav Pecherskaya, economist:

"Girlish happiness, flagolist, spathiphyllum - this is my blue dream which is about to come true. I saw a luxurious bush of this plant in one interior magazine and was impressed. Now I'm trying to grow the same specimen. The secret of care is simple - no to the sun's rays and yes to frequent spraying. For the third summer, my aristocrat pleases with numerous white veils.

Daria Lukashina, nurse:

“For me, the spathiphyllum has remained an incomprehensible mystery. Happy in marriage - so it should grow by leaps and bounds? In my case, the legend of "female happiness" did not work and the spathiphyllum withered. A friend gave a new one, suggesting that in winter the plant has a dormant period, but this still does not cancel watering. We'll try again."

www.razmnojenie.ru

Spathiphyllum reproduction

Reproduction of spathiphyllum (cuttings, seeds, dividing the bush).

Spathiphyllum is a beautifully flowering indoor plant, known and loved by many flower growers. Possessing various indisputable advantages, in particular, a very attractive appearance, unpretentiousness, the ability to purify the air of city apartments from formaldehyde and phenol vapors, it is also famous for its ease of reproduction. If your friends have an adult spathiphyllum, then getting a young copy from the mother plant is not difficult at all. There are three options for how to do this.

The division of the bush

This is the easiest and most convenient way, and it is also useful for the mother plant. Spathiphyllum grows very quickly, forming many young rosettes. After a couple of years, he is able to occupy the entire surface of the pot, creating dense thickets and greatly depleting the soil. Therefore, he needs not only an annual transplant, but also a periodic division of the bush. Delenki obtained as a result of this procedure are ready-made young plants that do not require additional growing or any special procedures. All that is required is to plant them in a separate pot.

- it is desirable to divide the bush before the start of active vegetation, in the spring; - the division must contain at least three well-developed leaf rosettes and have a strong and intact root system; - when planting in a new place, it is impossible to deepen the root neck, the soil level must remain the same as that of the original bush;

- for growing spathiphyllum, you should choose small pots, otherwise the plant will begin to actively develop the root system and increase the green mass to the detriment of flowering.

In order for the root system to be injured as little as possible during division, you can use in the following way. Before removing the plant from the pot, it must be thoroughly shed so that the root system is saturated with moisture and becomes less brittle. It is better not to cut a clod of earth “blindly”, but to gently soak and blur, freeing and unraveling the roots. Then it will be possible to see and evaluate those parts into which the bush needs to be divided. It is desirable to free each finished part from old rotten or dried roots and leaves, sprinkle the wounds with crushed charcoal, give them time to dry a little and then plant them in a new pot, straightening the roots, gradually sprinkling them with earth and compacting the soil.

A ready-made specialized one for aroids is quite suitable as a substrate, but those who want to please their pet can prepare the soil mixture on their own, taking one part of peat, leaf and sod land and adding a half share of coarse-grained river sand.

cuttings

As cuttings, leaf rosettes are used, cut from the mother bush in spring or summer. If they already have a small root system, young plants can be immediately planted in the ground. Otherwise, simple measures will be required to promote the rapid development and growth of roots. The simplest thing is to wait for root formation by placing the cutting socket in a glass of water, where it is desirable to add half an activated charcoal tablet, otherwise the base of the stem will quickly become covered with mucus and begin to rot.

The process of root formation in a container with water is the simplest, but, as practice shows, in special substrates it is faster and more reliable. As the latter, you can use coarse-grained river sand or perlite. In addition, high-moor peat and sphagnum moss, moistened and tightly packed around the cutting, have proven themselves well. To speed up the process, high humidity is maintained around the leaf outlet by covering it with a transparent cap or placing a pot with a plant in a mini-greenhouse.

Separately, we note that the spathiphyllum does not propagate with leaf cuttings, even if the petiole from the stem is cut off with a “heel”.

Reproduction by seeds

Seed propagation of spathiphyllum can be done by those who are important and interested in the process itself, since growing this plant from seeds is a very difficult and time-consuming task. One of the main problems of this method of reproduction is the rapid loss of germination. That is, the seeds collected from the plant should be sown immediately. And for this, you must first pollinate the flowering spathiphyllum and wait for the seeds to ripen. Neither the first nor the second can be called a simple matter, so it's easier to look for seeds in flower shops.

When buying seeds, you need to check their expiration date. As already mentioned, only fresh seeds germinate in a spathiphyllum, and even at the very beginning, the percentage of their germination does not exceed half.

The seeds are sown in a bowl with a wet substrate consisting of a mixture of sand and peat, and placed in a mini-greenhouse with a slight (up to 24 ° C) heating.

Carefully!

When working with spathiphyllum, especially when pruning and dividing the rhizome, it must be remembered that it belongs to poisonous plants and its juice can cause various allergic reactions. Therefore, the juice of the plant should not be allowed to get on the mucous membrane, and after working with it, you need to wash your hands thoroughly.

Spathiphyllum - female happiness in your home!

In nature, spathiphyllum grows in South America, Polynesia and East Asia. This evergreen perennial lives in wetlands, along lakes, rivers and streams. Spathiphyllum is popularly called female happiness. It is believed that this indoor flower brings its owner good luck and family peace. It is not recommended to give your personal spathiphyllum to someone, because in this way you give your well-being into the wrong hands.

But the spathiphyllum flower, specially bought as a gift, will help any woman achieve what she most desires at the moment. For example, it will help an unmarried lady to find her love, a childless lady to get pregnant and give birth safely healthy child. It is also noteworthy that with constant family scandals and a lack of mutual understanding, the spathiphyllum cannot develop normally - it dies without having time to please its mistress with spectacular flowering.

Of course, only a calm environment in the house is not enough for the normal growth of the plant. Spathiphyllum, like any home flower, requires some attention. And in this article we will tell you what kind of care a plant needs, how to transplant it correctly, and what the reproduction of this indoor flower is. But first, let's look at the types of spathiphyllum so that you can choose your flower.

Variety of spathiphyllums

The types of this plant are varied. They differ in size, coloring of the bedspread (the so-called spathiphyllum flower) and cob. All indoor varieties are hardy, bloom for a long time and profusely.

A flower with a short rhizome. In height reach 30-40 centimeters. The leaves of this variety are dark green, oblong, have an elegant shape. The spathe is white at the beginning of flowering and greenish at the end. The plant is shade tolerant and does not need any special care;

Abundantly blooming spathiphyllum

Medium size (50-60 centimeters), has oval-shaped leaves. Peduncles are large, buds are formed directly in the leaves, which ensures abundant flowering almost all year round;

Large plant, blooms not as profusely as the two species described above. The coverlet of this variety of spathiphyllum has a greenish-white tint and resembles a flag.

Flowering lasts from April to June;

A large indoor flower growing up to one meter in height. The leaves of this variety are oblong in shape, the texture is glossy, wavy along the edges. Cover white color, has the shape of a spoon;

Also a large plant, the leaves of which are similar to canna leaves. cob yellow color, the bedspread is white-green, with a pungent aroma.

Indoor spathiphyllum has another name - white sail. It appeared due to the shape of its inflorescences. Cut flowers of any variety of spathiphyllum are able to keep their freshness for about a month, so they are often used by florists to create festive bouquets.

Features of care

All species of this plant are not too picky, so caring for them will not bring you any special problems. Spathiphyllum loves shaded places - bright sunlight is contraindicated for him. However, this does not mean that the flower must be constantly kept in the dark.

If you notice that the leaves of the plant have stretched out and become dark in color, there is not enough light for it. Pamper your spathiphyllum with sunbathing or organize artificial light with fluorescent lamps. By the way, at artificial lighting the flower grows faster and more often throws out buds.

Cold air and a draft are detrimental to this tropical beauty. Therefore, in winter, pay attention to the organization of the necessary temperature regime. 23-25 degrees of heat - these are the optimal conditions for growing spathiphyllum. Top dressing is applied during the period of growth and flowering, once a week. Before using the fertilizer, carefully read the instructions and act strictly according to it.

If the leaves of the plant have drooped and wilted, it lacks moisture. Remember, the root system of the flower should always be wet. Therefore, spathiphyllum should be watered abundantly - as the upper soil layer dries out. Once a week, arrange water procedures in the form of a shower for the flower.

Wipe the leaves with a clean cloth to prevent dust from accumulating. If after water procedures there is water left in the pan, do not rush to drain it, leave it for several hours. A moist environment is necessary for the plant both in winter and in summer. Therefore, with the onset of cold weather, it is not necessary to radically change its content.

Reproduction and transplant

Reproduction of the spathiphyllum occurs either by dividing the bush (during transplantation), or by apical cuttings. Before starting propagation (dividing an adult plant), carefully unravel the roots, being careful not to damage them. Then plant the spathiphyllum in new smaller pots. To root the cuttings, you need to create a greenhouse effect for them.

After planting the shoot in the ground, cover it with a glass container. When the spathiphyllum puts out young leaves, you can safely remove the greenhouse. Water during rooting only in the pan. Caring for a young plant is no different from maintaining an adult flower.

In order to transplant a spathiphyllum, it is necessary to prepare the soil. Mix in equal parts humus, leaf and sod land, peat and sand. In order for the substrate to have the desired air permeability, add fine brick chips and pieces of charcoal to it. Before transplanting the spathiphyllum, place drainage on the bottom of the pot, which can be used as expanded clay.

It is necessary to transplant spathiphyllum every year with the onset of spring. The size of the pot is chosen based on the size of the plant itself. You should not take too much capacity - this will slow down the growth of the flower in the future. After the transplant is done, put the spathiphyllum in a warm place and spray it daily.

Until the plant takes root, do not water it too abundantly. Rooting lasts about a week, so cut watering in half during this time. Top dressing is also not needed at this time. When the spathiphyllum takes root, care returns to its previous mode.

What difficulties can arise when growing spathiphyllum?

Spathiphyllum is considered unpretentious plant. However, he is not immune from some problems. Let's look at what troubles the owners of this plant can expect when growing, and what kind of care he needs to recover.

Leaf tips turn yellow and dry

This problem occurs due to insufficient air humidity. In urban apartments, this is inevitable, even with frequent spraying. Raising the humidity is simple: pour pebbles (or other pebbles) into a shallow tray, moisten it, put a spathiphyllum on top. This method is good for winter flower maintenance. After all, it is in winter that the air in the room is dry due to heating devices;

Brown spots on leaves

Excessive soil moisture or stagnation of water in the pan is to blame here. Dry the spathiphyllum well (do not water it for 3-4 days). Do not stop spraying the leaves. Then fluff up the earth in a pot, and water the plant abundantly the next day;

This indicates a lack of minerals in the soil - you need to feed the spathiphyllum. Use nitrogen-containing and phosphorus-containing fertilizers. Top dressing should be started as soon as possible, otherwise the leaves will completely turn black and fall off.

Spathiphyllum is susceptible to attack by thrips, mealybugs and spider mites. If the insects have not yet had time to completely infect the plant, an ordinary soapy solution will help, with which you need to wash the leaves.

In advanced cases, special chemicals are used, sold in flower shops. Sometimes an unplanned plant transplant is required.

So we learned everything about spathiphyllum, the flowering of which will not leave anyone indifferent. Love the plant and provide it whenever possible the right care. The flower will do the rest by itself - it will bring real female happiness to your home!

Proper transplantation and reproduction of indoor spathiphyllum.

A showy plant without stems of dark green leaves always looks spectacular, especially when it blooms. Spathiphyllum is great for beginner gardeners to get their hands on and show off their success to friends. Beautiful inflorescences should appear in early spring, and please the eye for a month. With proper care, the plant blooms several times a month.

Interesting! Psychologists believe that spathiphyllum helps to purify the air in the room, which has a positive effect on the mental state of a person.

General useful information

Direct sunlight for the leaves will be harmful, but the flower loves diffused sunlight, moist air. Spathiphyllum does not tolerate drafts, therefore, you need to find it in the apartment optimal location for him, which will ensure active growth. You should not let the leaves grow too actively, because this stops the flowering process.

In winter, you need to especially carefully protect the flower from the cold, which it does not tolerate. Only at room temperature of 18 degrees Celsius and above will the plant grow well and develop properly. As for the ideal temperature - it is 23 degrees Celsius, it is quite simple to provide such conditions in an ordinary apartment.

Every week, the leaves must be cleaned of dust and sprayed on the plant. Water only when the top layer dries out. In the presence of large leaves, watering should be provided a little more often. If the leaves drooped and the tips began to dry, then the spathiphyllum lacks moisture, you can put a pallet next to it with wet moss or wet stones.

Reproduction of spathiphyllum

- It is best to propagate the plant in early spring - early March. You can propagate the flower by the usual division of the bush. You can also use apical cuttings for this, but it is better to refuse the method of propagation by seeds: it is long and not effective.

When dividing the bushes, the roots should be untangled as carefully as possible. For planting, smaller pots are selected than the one in which the plant grew as a whole. While creating greenhouse conditions spathiphyllum quickly take root. But it is imperative to provide several hours of ventilation per day, otherwise, excessive moisture will negatively affect overall growth.

The shortened stem of the plant after reproduction may begin to branch. This good sign that new points of growth are formed. Young leaves will begin to appear simultaneously in several places at once.

You should not grow large greens, because, it minimizes the possibility of the flowering process.

How to transplant spathiphyllum?

Spathiphyllum is extremely sensitive to damage to the roots. Transplantation must be carried out carefully, perhaps even giving up gloves in order to feel each root with your fingers. After transplantation, it is necessary to provide the flower with warmth, moderate watering and frequent spraying. These three factors contribute to rapid rooting. The pot should not be chosen too large, otherwise, the growth and flowering of the plant will be extremely slow.

Soil suitable for transplanting:

Sod; Humus; Sand; sheet;

Peat;

It will be great if you mix several types of soil.

The substrate must be moisture-permeable, it is also good to pass air.

Spathiphyllum: description, cultivation and care at home

A slightly acidic environment should be provided, for which sand, charcoal or brick chips should be added to the kidney. Be sure to make good drainage.

Young plants should be transplanted once a year, and then you can switch to the regime of one transplant every three codes. The signal for a transplant is that the roots have filled the entire volume of the pot and they simply have nowhere to develop further.

With proper care, maintenance, transplantation and reproduction, spathiphyllum is resistant to pathogens and pests. If the air in the apartment is dry and watering is insufficient, then certain problems may begin: dry leaves, lack of flowering, the appearance of aphids or mites.

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Basic care for ficuses at home.

There are some features of the propagation of spathiphyllum at home. This article provides useful recommendations on how to propagate the plant. The most accessible and common are: propagation of spathiphyllum by dividing the bush and cuttings. Seed propagation is possible. The method of propagation by a spathiphyllum leaf is not found in the literature.

Reproduction by seeds

Immediately make a reservation, propagation by seeds is a very laborious process.

Spathiphyllum care at home

At home, it is difficult to artificially pollinate a flower, get seeds, and create conditions for their ripening. The germination of spathiphyllum seeds is very low and quickly lost. If you still managed to get spathiphyllum seeds, you can try this breeding method.

Seeds are sown in a greenhouse in moist soil, consisting of sand and peat. Care should be taken to keep the soil constantly moist, but not wet. When seedlings appear, they need to be periodically aired by slightly opening the greenhouse. This method of reproduction is possible, but not recommended for reproducing spathiphyllum at home, as it is complicated and not always effective.

Read also: How to grow a pumpkin yourself?

cuttings

It is best to root cuttings in spring and summer. Rosettes of cuttings are carefully separated from the mother plant. For rooting use containers with wet sand. Cuttings root well in moistened perlite. In order for the roots to grow well, the cuttings are placed in a mini greenhouse.

When well-developed roots appear, the cuttings are planted in the prepared earthen mixture. Peat, sand, leaf, humus and garden soil are mixed in equal proportions. Young plants are watered.

By dividing the bush

Plants are planted in a special ready-made soil for aroid plants. You can prepare the soil mixture yourself, as described above. A layer of expanded clay is necessarily laid at the bottom of the pot. It serves as a good drainage system when watering. Expanded clay retains moisture well and does not allow the roots to dry out quickly.

Who is unfamiliar with delicate cobs of flowers, carefully protected by a light blanket-sail, outstanding from the juicy emerald foliage of spathiphyllum, an evergreen perennial that has long been cultivated in indoor floriculture. This typical representative of the Aroid family has acquired another unambiguous name - female happiness.

Main characteristics

Numbering up to 40 species, spathiphyllum is common in the habitual range for aroids - shady rainforests of Central and South America, New Guinea, the Philippine and Solomon Islands. Excellent endurance and love for high humidity distinguishes all types of this plant - both cultivated and wild. Spathiphyllum was “domesticated” by English breeders back in the 19th century, and today there are many varieties of culture - from baby dwarfs to giants of impressive size with dark green or textured variegated leaves.

The lack of a stem at the flower adds decorativeness, since the leaves located close to each other appear from the rhizome in a bunch and grow back, effectively bending back and forming a luxurious bush. The leaf is whole lanceolate with textured relief veins.

The inflorescence is an ear on a long peduncle, wrapped in a white veil that turns green over time. Flowering begins in spring and lasts for several weeks. good care for spathiphyllum - a guarantee of re-blooming in autumn or winter.

How to care for a plant

The unpretentiousness of this culture has become a byword, but in order to achieve generous flowering, it is worth taking care of it. In addition, you won’t have to strain much, since caring for a spathiphyllum at home is completely easy.

Lighting and room temperature

Spathiphyllum is shade-tolerant, but it develops better in lighted places, feeling great on northern window sills or near east and west windows under diffused light. It develops well and at a sufficient distance from light sources, which is very valuable for arranging the interior of offices and offices.

How to care for spathiphyllum, the rules for growing a flower at home

The plant compensates for the lack of light by some slowdown in growth, rare flowering and more intense coloring of the foliage, which, however, does not affect the overall decorative effect.

Spathiphyllum does not put forward special requirements for air temperature and grows productively at 18-25˚С at any time of the year. It is important not to lower the temperature, since a decrease to 12-14˚С will make it difficult for the plant to develop, and 10˚С is already a serious threat that can provoke root rot and death.

Spathiphyllum does not tolerate drafts, therefore, when choosing a place for a flower, this circumstance is taken into account.

We select the soil for planting

The substrate should be light and breathable. The habits acquired by wild-growing representatives, whose habitat is the lower tier of rain forests with loose, fertile, composted soil, are affecting. The best soil for spathiphyllum - a mixture consisting of peat, garden soil, vermiculite, crushed charcoal and wood chips in a ratio of 3 * 2 * 2 * 1.

To avoid root rot, use drainage - expanded clay or fine gravel.

Transfer

Young fast-growing spathiphyllums are transplanted in the spring every year. Adult plants that have reached the age of 4-5 years are not touched until the roots begin to appear from the drainage holes of the container. A narrow and shallow pot is convenient for a spathiphyllum, since in large containers the soil turns sour and inhibits growth, and flowering does not occur until the roots grow to the entire volume of the container.

Important! With each next transplant, the dimensions of the new container increase slightly - by 1-1.5 cm.

Immediately before transplanting, the spathiphyllum is well watered. The ability of the plant to grow rapidly leads to shredding of the leaves and, in order for the flower to please with large textured foliage and tall peduncles, when transplanted, lateral processes are separated from the spathiphyllum, which draw food onto themselves. A layer of expanded clay (2.5-3 cm) is laid on the bottom of the container, then the plant is placed together with an earthen clod and the soil is sprinkled, carefully compacting it, after which it is generously watered with water with the addition of aloe juice. Over the next 3-5 days, the plant should not be moistened, but it should be sprayed twice a day.

watering

With its love of moisture, the spathiphyllum does not welcome stagnant water in the pan. Watering during the active period should be generous, but reasonable: as the surface layer of the soil dries, the culture is abundantly moistened. In a quiet period (from November to January), watering is reduced, still not allowing the earthy coma to dry out completely. Pay attention to high level dryness of the air in city apartments in winter, you should constantly monitor the water regime. It is useful for the winter to place a container with a plant in a tray with wet pebbles.

The humidity in the room should be high, and with the onset of the spring-summer season, frequent spraying is carried out, which the sapatiphyllum gratefully accepts, significantly adding decorative effect.

reproduction

The preferred way to propagate spathiphyllum is to divide the bush. By separating the lateral processes-rosettes during a spring transplant, the grower gets ready planting material. Viable shoots must have at least 3-4 leaves growing from the core, and roots.

Advice! In the absence of roots, the sockets are placed in water and waiting for their growth. Planting such a delenka is a win-win option, it will definitely take root.

The delenki are planted immediately in separate containers filled with special soil for aroid or prepared substrate, the composition of which is indicated above, and cared for as independent plants.

Important! When planting a delenka, the basal neck is not deepened, otherwise the flowering of the spathiphyllum may not occur.

A possible option is propagation by cuttings, which are a cluster of young leaves with rudiments of roots at the base of the mother plant. It is not recommended to trim the spathiphyllum when separating rosette cuttings. Young rosettes easily move away from the mother plant. In summer and spring, they take root well in containers with moist perlite or sand. Film cover will speed up rooting. When roots appear, seedlings are placed in separate small containers with a mixture of sand, peat, humus and garden soil (1 * 1 * 1 * 3).

Seed propagation by flower growers is not practiced, since even ripened seeds have a low germination rate and do not always carry the varietal characteristics of the mother plant. Seeds can be sown immediately after collection in a wet mixture of sand and peat. The seedling box is covered with a film or glass and periodically ventilated to avoid mold.

Fertilizers and frequency of application

During the period of activity from March to October, the spathiphyllum requires top dressing with a solution of complete mineral fertilizer (1.5 g / 1 l) once every 15-20 days. In spring, it is more efficient to alternate mineral nutrition with organic matter, for example, Kemiru-universal with humus or a 5% solution of mullein infusion. By winter, top dressing is stopped, but if the plant continues to grow rapidly or bloom, then it is necessary to fertilize it once a month. Such “behavior” is facilitated by high-quality care, proper hydration and top dressing.

Diseases and problems

Despite the fact that the endurance of the plant is very high, sometimes aphids attack the spathiphyllum, and errors in the irrigation regime provoke the appearance of a spider mite. You can fight them with home remedies by rubbing the leaves weekly with a solution of soap with nicotine sulfate. The substrate in the container is pre-covered protective film. A day after treatment, the drug is washed off the leaves. Repeat this operation as needed.

Important! The simplest hygiene procedures - wiping the leaves from dust and periodic inspections will help to avoid pest attacks or prevent them in time.

Diseases are usually the result of illiterate care. For example, the leaves turn yellow or wither if errors are made in the regularity of watering and the soil dries up. If this has already happened, then the plant should be brought back to normal, gradually soaking the soil and increasing the volume of water. Yellowing of the foliage also causes a lack of nutrients, compliance with the feeding regimen will help to eliminate it.

The situation becomes more dangerous when the spathiphyllum leaves turn black. As a rule, this is a sign of the death of the root system, which often occurs when waterlogging, keeping the flower in an insufficiently warm room or overfeeding.

Advice! When the leaves turn black, it is necessary to remove the plant from the container, inspect the roots and remove the problematic ones, and then transplant them into a new substrate, after holding them in the Epin or Zircon solution.

The tips of the leaves of the spathiphyllum dry when the air in the room is too dry or cold and there is a lack of nutrition.

Fixing this problem is not difficult, you just have to balance top dressing, as well as change the temperature and humidity in the room.

Spathiphyllum does not bloom if the rules of planting and care are violated.

Excessive deepening of the outlet when planting a plant, too spacious a container or the use of liquid wax when caring for leaves - all this provokes a fair delay in flowering.

Note that it is not difficult to fix the listed troubles. Spathiphyllum is extremely responsive to quality care, and as soon as its life processes are restored, the decorative effect of this elegant handsome man also increases.

It is best to propagate spathiphyllum by seeds at the end of winter and beginning of spring.. But cuttings or dividing the bush at any time, except for flowering. It is better to wait until the plant has faded.

Inventory preparation

To propagate this room culture, you will need the following materials:

container made of ceramics, wood;
scissors, secateurs;
glass for sheltering seedlings;
container with water for rooting cuttings.

Step by step instructions on how a flower reproduces

Cuttings are presented in the form of leaf rosettes, separated from an adult plant.. If small roots are present, then the cuttings are ready for planting directly into the kidney.

In their absence, it will be necessary to place the planting material in water with activated carbon until they are formed. After rooting, the cuttings are placed in a special soil.

To do this, connect to equal number the following components:

perlite;
riding peat;
sphagnum moss.

After the cutting has been placed in a nutrient substrate, install it in a greenhouse or under a glass jar. This is necessary to maintain high humidity. With the onset of spring, an already strengthened process can be planted in another container. suitable for size.

The division of the bush

This breeding method is convenient and easy to implement. For an adult plant, it is also useful, as it is an opportunity to “thin out” a thick bush. The flower will grow quite quickly, and young rosettes remove all the nutrients from the soil, depriving the mother plant.

IMPORTANT: The division of the bush has a positive effect on the subsequent growth and development of spathiphyllum.

Carry out the division of the bush in early spring, even before the start of the growing season. The root system must be strong and without injury. The delenka is ready to grow on its own if it has 3 leaf rosettes which are well developed. The root neck of immature plants should be at the same soil level as that of the mother bush.

The capacity for the flower should be small, since in a deep container the root system will begin to actively develop, and this will lead to rapid leaf growth and delayed flowering.

Procedure:

Before the procedure, water the mother plant abundantly in flower pot. This will make it easy to extract a flower with an earthy clod and less trauma to the root system.
As soon as the flower has been removed from the container, then thoroughly rinse its roots from the ground and, if possible, untangle.
The prepared root system will be easier to separate.
Sprinkle the cuts on the root system with sharpened activated carbon. Wait 2-3 hours for them to dry.
Before each division, perform a thorough inspection and remove dried and rotten parts from the root system and leaves.
Each young plant plant in a shallow and narrow container.
Spread fragile roots over the surface of the soil and carefully sprinkle with a nutrient substrate. After that, compact it slightly.

To plant delenki, you need to buy ready-made soil for plants of the Aroid family or cook it with your own hands. To do this, connect the following components:

leaf ground - 1 part;
peat - 1 part;
turf - 1 part;
river sand - ½ part.

Watch a video about reproduction by dividing the bush:

This method of reproduction is not easy and time consuming. The reason is that the seeds quickly lose their germination capacity and cannot be stored for a long time. Sow them immediately after harvest. And in order for them to ripen, pollinate a flowering indoor flower. This process is complex and lengthy, so it is better to buy planting material in a specialized store.

Even when using the freshest seeds, about half of them will not give inputs.. So when buying, pay attention to the expiration date.

Procedure:

Prepare a shallow container with drainage. Cover it with a nutrient substrate consisting of peat and sand, taken in equal proportions.
Scatter the seeds over the surface of the soil and lightly sprinkle with earth, without tamping.
Cover the container with glass and install the container in a room where the air temperature will be 24-25 degrees.
Watering the soil is carried out by spraying.
Every day, open the glass to ventilate the seedlings and remove condensate. An excess of moisture leads to the development of mold and the death of planting material.
As soon as 2-3 leaves are formed, carry out a pick, planting young plants in separate containers.

Plant care at home

Lighting and temperature

Propagated spathiphyllum requires diffused light. Only then will the plant grow large, and it will be long-lasting. In spring and summer, maintain the temperature regime at 22 degrees Celsius. with the onset of autumn and winter, the temperature should not be below 16 degrees.

ATTENTION: If the temperature is less than 10 degrees Celsius, the plant will die. Drafts also have a detrimental effect on the flower.

Humidification is carried out all year round using settled water. During the period of active growth and in summer, watering should be plentiful. Perform it 2-3 times a week, without waiting for the top layer of soil to dry out. If the earth dries out, the root system will die. Moisten the soil carefully so that water does not fall on the flowers.

Growing spathiphyllum at home, it is important to spray, and also mark the pot in a container with gray expanded clay. Spray the flower at least 2 times a day. Otherwise, the leaves will begin to dry out. In winter, watering is reduced to 1 time per week.

Fertilizer

Apply mineral fertilizers from March to September. dilute them with water (1 g per 1 liter). Water the flower thoroughly before making. Top dressing should be regular - once every 2 weeks. In winter, if the plant does not bloom, fertilize it too, adding nutrients once every 5 weeks.

During flowering, fertilizers should not be used. Also, they are not needed for young plants after transplantation. For long and abundant flowering, top dressing with a high concentration of potassium and phosphorus is suitable.

You will learn all the subtleties and nuances of caring for this plant in.

Possible problems and difficulties

When growing spathiphyllum, the following problems are possible:

Drying and curling of the tips of the leaves. The main reason - low humidity or low room temperature.
pale leaves. This phenomenon occurs when the light is too bright. It is necessary to rearrange the container with the flower to another place, and remove the affected leaves. Otherwise, the process is irreversible.
Black spots on leaves. Such a nuisance occurs if the root is sick. In most cases, this is due to excess moisture. It is urgent to transplant the flower, and clean the root system. An unbalanced diet can also affect the development of blackness on the leaves. If you overdo it with top dressing, then do not transplant.
No flowering. This occurs as a result of excessive fertilization. Also, the absence of flowers may be due to the filling of the entire capacity of the pot with roots.

You can read more about spathiphyllum diseases in.

Conclusion

Reproduction of spathiphyllum is a complex and responsible process that requires increased attention. For a beginner, the best option would be to use the method with dividing the bush, since propagation by seeds and cuttings is an option for experienced gardeners.

Choice indoor plants for a home garden, it is primarily determined by the personal preferences of the gardener. It is extremely important for someone that all his pets bloom. Others are more attracted to the unusual shapes and colors of the leaves. Still others prefer cacti and succulents, attracted by their diversity and cardinal difference from most familiar home flowers. But among the whole variety of plants there are those that can satisfy both lovers of beautiful foliage and fans of flowering specimens. Spathiphyllum belongs to such inhabitants of indoor greenhouses. Caring for him, by the way, is quite simple and accessible even to a novice florist.

Why is it called that

Almost all botanical names are based on Greek or Latin roots. Spathiphyllum got its name also thanks to the Greeks. It consists of two halves: "spat", which means a coverlet, cape, and "phyllum" - a leaf of a plant. Taken together, the name very accurately describes the spathiphyllum flower: the inflorescence-cob has a petal-veil at the base, similar in shape to a leaf, only snow-white.

Useful qualities of the plant

The most important of these for indoor gardeners is how unpretentious the spathiphyllum is. Caring for him is absolutely not time-consuming and does not require the creation of any too specific conditions. The second notable feature is that the flower perfectly cleans the atmosphere in the apartment. True, he does not tolerate gas and smoke at all, so he is unlikely to survive in the kitchen.

Concerning folk signs, there is no certainty. Some seriously believe that spathiphyllum discourages men from home and can even destroy a family. Others claim that this flower not only contributes to the search for a "second half", but also helps to make the right choice, not to make a mistake if there are several applicants. Believe what you like best.

Where did he come from

V room conditions more than forty species of spathiphyllum are cultivated. Most of them are home South America. The natural environment for them is the tropics, and forest ones, and even the banks of streams and small rivers. Some varieties have been introduced from the Solomon Islands, Polynesia and Malaysia. All species of this plant arrived in Europe in the 19th century, and they were brought specifically for indoor breeding.

Structural features

Spathiphyllum care has some features due to the fact that the plant, in principle, does not have a stem, and its rhizome is short. If the stem flowers need some time for water to reach the leaves, then the spathiphyllum gets it very quickly. Therefore, watering is allowed only after the complete drying of the earth. If you do this more often, and the moisture will stagnate in the pot, the leaves may rot at the very base.

Spathiphyllum blooms for a long time, usually in spring. However, with proper maintenance, repeated flowering is not uncommon, and they can be repeated several times a year. Don't forget to cut off dead flowers! And this should be done as close to the ground as possible. Dry "flowers" are not only unsightly, they also prevent the appearance of others, and the leaves next to them grow more slowly, and may even rot.

Proper lighting is the key to success

So, you have decided to have homemade spathiphyllum flowers in your home. Caring for them begins with a competent location within your apartment. Remember that they are rainforest plants where there is a lot of shade from the trees. So spathiphyllums will be just a godsend for those whose windows face a not too sunny side. Moreover, if you have a choice regarding lighting, you can achieve different colors and shapes of leaves: in diffused rays they will be lighter, brighter and wider, in a shady room they will be densely green and oblong. However, if there is absolutely not enough light, you will not wait for flowering, so after buying, observe how your spathiphyllum flower feels (care also implies attentiveness). On the northern windowsills, the plant feels more comfortable, but on the southern windowsills it blooms more magnificently and longer; the main thing is to avoid direct rays that cause burns.

Heat is the key to health

When choosing a temperature regime, you should not, again, forget where spathiphyllum indoor plants come from. Care in this regard is to keep the flowers from freezing in winter. It is unlikely, of course, that you live in very wild conditions, but if the house has an unheated (for example, non-residential, guest) room, the spathiphyllum must be removed from there. Even plus 10 for him is a lethal temperature; with it, the flowers rot, and it is almost impossible to “pump out” them after that (what can we say about lower values!). The minimum at which plants are viable and do not get sick is plus 16; if your heating is turned off in winter, warm the room at least with a fan heater. And exclude the possibility of drafts: they are detrimental to these plants.

Water in the life of a spathiphyllum

For any "green friends" moisture is the main component of normal functioning. If you decide to grow a spathiphyllum plant, care (the most important part of it) is to follow the correct mode of obtaining moisture. Watering this flower is needed all year round, just in some periods of life they should be more frequent and plentiful, in some - rare and sparing. When there is flowering (whatever the time of the year in the yard), it is necessary to water very generously. The most reasonable would be a moisture-supporting regime from a pallet, since the topsoil must be absolutely dry by the time water is applied. However, too rare “wetting” is harmful: the roots may have time to dry out, so it will be problematic to revive the flower.

If you want to have a spathiphyllum indoor flower with shiny glossy leaves in your home, living and healthy, care for it should include regular irrigation of the leaves. The requirements for it are standard: the water is settled, not hot and not cold, irrigation is carried out either early in the morning or in the setting sun (depending on how the windows are located where the pots with plants are located). If it is extremely hot outside, you will have to spray the plants twice a day; if the temperature does not go off scale - it happens that once in three days is enough. An important note: in the presence of flowers, it should be irrigated so that water does not fall on the "cobs" with "bedspreads".

And plants need vitamins

All plants have a particularly active period. It is called the growing season, and usually lasts from the beginning of spring (the month of March) to the beginning of autumn (until the end of September). At this time, all plants need to be fed - your spathiphyllum is no exception. Care at this time is reduced to feeding. A complete mineral fertilizer is taken, only in a small concentration (from a gram to one and a half per liter of water). You can buy ready-made dressings for aroids or complex universal ones, or use folk, “village” methods: the same mullein, diluted in a ratio of 1:20, will greatly support your pet. Before and after feeding, do not forget to water the plant with warm water (and generously enough!)

Time to relocate!

I must say that this plant quickly fills the space of the pot with its roots. And the whole spathiphyllum suffers from this. Transplantation and care after it is therefore a mandatory annual event. An alarm signal can be roots that crawl out from below through holes to drain excess water. If we also remember that an overly large pot slows down growth, impairs health and stops the blooming of the spathiphyllum, we can conclude that it is better to spend a little time in the spring than to initially plant in an oversized container or delay the transplant for a year.

In the process, it is worth showing maximum care - the flower suffers damage to the roots with difficulty and then recovers for a long time. The soil can be "collected" independently from humus, charcoal and finely broken bricks. You can buy a substrate designed for aroid; at the same time, it will not be superfluous to refresh it with the same coal. Any selected primer for prevention is spilled with a strong and hot solution of potassium permanganate; the pot should be wider than the previous one by no more than 5 cm in diameter. After moving, your spathiphyllum will become a little more capricious. Care after transplantation consists in regular, but not too abundant watering, keeping the seedling warm without drafts and systematic irrigation. If you want the flower to take root faster - build an impromptu greenhouse: cover it with polyethylene or a plastic bottle (both with holes made).

How to get several from one

Suppose you have already figured out the place where the spathiphyllum will be comfortable, decided on its content and established a timely transplant. You like the flower, caring for it does not cause any special problems, it fits perfectly into the interior, and now you want to have more such plants. Cuttings in the case of spathiphyllum will not work - you will have to learn how to divide the rhizome. The best time for this is spring, when the plant is usually transplanted. This is done in the following way. The flower is carefully removed from the pot, slightly shaken off the ground (just so that the soil does not interfere, you should not completely clean the roots). The rhizome is then separated with a sharp knife and extremely carefully. In each segment, 2-3 leaves should depart from the roots, no less. The resulting delenki are planted in low and narrow pots. The easiest way is to fill them with ready-made soil for aroids; if you want to be sure about the soil - make it yourself from leafy and coniferous soil in combination with peat and sand (ratio 2:2:2:2:1) and a small amount of charcoal.

Dangerous "fans" of spathiphyllum

Low susceptibility to infections is another advantage that spathiphyllum will please. Diseases common among other houseplants are extremely rare. However, there is no escape from pests! For spathiphyllum, spider mites, aphids, mealybugs and scale insects are dangerous. And here it is important to determine in time who "visited" you, and take measures to save the pet. A weightless cobweb appeared on the flower, and the leaves began to dry out? This is a spider mite. Carefully collect all the strings and wash the leaves with soapy water, tincture of onion peel, treat with ground sulfur or purchased insecticides. The main thing is to rinse the poor fellow afterwards with clean warm water. Are the leaves curling, withering and drying? Your guest is an aphid. It breeds just incredibly fast, so you need to act quickly. Nicotine sulfate is your weapon! Just cover the ground with polyethylene, and get ready to attack repeatedly: the aphids cannot be removed the first time. Shchitovka leaves behind dark spots throughout the body of the plant. Tobacco-soap solution to help you! Wipe only stains, healthy areas can not be touched. And again, wash the flower after processing.

The mealybug is also determined visually, no need to look for any signs. Excess moisture contributes to its appearance; on examination, it is easily detected. If there are few pests, simply wipe the leaves with a rag soaked in alcohol. In case of a serious infection, you will have to resort to chemical preparations.

Why is the flower not happy

It would seem that everything is done according to the rules, but the spathiphyllum upsets you! Diseases did not seem to overtake him, but, for example, he does not bloom. Most likely, the plant lives in too large a pot. As soon as the roots braid the entire earthen ball, the spathiphyllum will give color. Drying tips of the leaves indicate a lack of moisture. Spray more often - and it will pass. Dry yellow-brown spots on the foliage indicate overflows. Make watering more infrequent. The black edges of the leaves, which dry out over time, most often indicate a lack of top dressing; try introducing nitrogen-phosphorus fertilizers. And never, ever grease the leaves with liquid wax! From it they really begin to shine very beautifully, but the spathiphyllum dies from clogged pores on the leaves, so let it shine naturally. Good luck in cultivation!