Ceiling insulation in a house with a cold roof Do-it-yourself ceiling insulation in a private house How to make the ceiling warm in the house

In accordance with the laws of physics, air rises when heated, so the insulation of the ceiling in the house with cold roof is not a way to get rid of extra money, but a decision dictated by expediency. If you live in a private house, then you have directly encountered the problem of a cold ceiling in the room above which the attic is located. Usually it is not heated, and its own thermal insulation is minimal to ensure normal temperatures during the cold season. As a result, there is a source of constant heat leakage above the living room.

You can insulate the ceiling in a private house from the inside or outside. Both options have their own advantages and disadvantages, the use of which is dictated by rationality, circumstances, technical nuances and other significant characteristics.

Insulation of the ceiling from the outside with roll material Source buildfun.ru

Why insulate ceilings in private homes

Laying insulating material that is optimal for a particular building will provide a thermal barrier between the room and the attic. It will prevent the cooling of heated air, its exit through microcracks in concrete or natural pores in a wooden ceiling, raise the overall temperature in the room, protect ceilings and walls from freezing and save a considerable amount that is regularly spent on heating.

Features of ceiling insulation in a wooden house

When working with wooden buildings, the final weight of the insulating layer should be given priority. Excessively high mass increases the likelihood of collapse or cracking in the ceiling.

Some try to insulate the ceiling in a private house with a cold roof with a decrease in the insulation layer, but work standards require a certain value for each region in accordance with temperature and humidity indicators. With a decrease in thickness, the heat-insulating properties decrease, and the meaning of laying the insulation disappears.

Ceiling insulation in a wooden house from the inside Source evejoy.top

List of materials used for insulation

For thermal insulation, installers use materials that are divided into four large groups:

bulk- expanded clay, dry sawdust, ecowool;

rolled- mineral wool and its varieties from other materials;

slab- sheets of compacted mineral wool, expanded polystyrene (polystyrene), cork plates;

sprayed / poured- penoizol.

When choosing insulation for the ceiling in a wooden house, you need to know which one has the best insulating properties. To do this, it is necessary to take into account a number of factors that affect the final result:

external or internal installation;

weather conditions and average annual temperature in a particular area, affecting the thickness of the layer;

the need and list of additional work;

time spent and project budget.

The combination of these features will indicate the rationality of using one or another type of thermal insulation.

In the photo, a bulk version of the ceiling insulation from the outside - expanded clay thermal insulation Source hi.decorexpro.com

External insulation

In most cases, insulating the ceiling in a house from the outside is a more convenient way to prevent heat from escaping. It allows you to expand the list of used insulating materials, reduce the time spent on work and reduce, in comparison with internal installation, the cost of thermal insulation when insulating in a house with finishing.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer home insulation services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

There are several options for insulating the ceiling from the outside:

The cheapest among all bulk insulator options. Due to the penny cost of the material and minimal additional costs, the total cost of the work is the lowest among those described.

There are certain requirements for sawdust.

A minimum moisture content is required, otherwise mold will begin to form over time. For this, the material is aged in a dry room for about a year before use.

The sawdust is mixed with flame retardants to reduce flammability.

Combining with antiseptics, fungicides and slaked lime will prevent the appearance of fungus and protect against rodents.

Insulation of the ceiling in the house with sawdust is done in two ways. In the first, they are mixed with dry cement, followed by the addition of a small amount of water. Cement acts as a connecting material. The second method involves dry filing of sawdust without adding a connector, but due to the natural shrinkage of the material and the need for regular addition, it is not popular.

Ceiling insulated with sawdust Source ohiogas.info

Expanded clay as a heater

The second most commonly used bulk material for insulation. Among its advantages:

acceptable price;

availability;

thermal insulation properties are above average.

However, the application has a number of limitations:

the own weight of expanded clay does not allow it to be used on thin wooden ceilings; concrete ceilings are desirable.

the material has low moisture resistance, therefore, a vapor barrier is necessarily laid in the first layer.

to ensure high-quality heat preservation, a layer of more than 20 cm thick will be needed (in cold regions of the country it is increased to 50 cm).

Using expanded clay, experts use a mixture of coarse and fine fractions to ensure a high percentage of empty space filling. From above, a layer of material is poured with a cement mortar 5–10 cm thick, which provides protection from moisture and serves as a floor covering.

Ceiling insulation from the outside with expanded clay Source obustroeno.com

Ecowool

Modern insulation for the ceiling of the house, made from recycled cellulose, with the addition of flame retardants for fire resistance and boric acid, which serves as a protection against fungus and harmful microorganisms. The main advantages of the material:

high-quality coverage of the entire floor space, due to low weight separate parts cotton wool is easily blown into all the cracks;

the composition does not contain compounds harmful to humans;

low material consumption to ensure reliable thermal insulation.

The disadvantages include:

low resistance to moisture, you will have to spend money on laying a vapor barrier;

hand-made installation without special equipment is impossible or will be of low quality;

ecowool is subject to shrinkage, so it will need to be laid with a margin of about 15%;

if crushed, it loses its thermal insulation qualities, therefore it is necessary to cover the ecowool with a layer of boards to enable movement in the attic.

Advice! Experts do not recommend using the material close to chimneys and other sources of high temperature, despite the addition of flame retardants to the composition. If this is not possible, then it will be necessary to make an additional fence of a fire-resistant coating that reflects heat.

Source ko.decorexpro.com

Mineral wool as a heater

Warming the ceiling in a wooden house with mineral wool has several advantages:

low cost of the material;

high laying speed;

good thermal insulation properties.

Not without cons:

cotton wool shrinkage is 15-20%, so experts advise taking the appropriate stock.

the material is not moisture resistant and quickly absorbs water, which immediately increases its thermal conductivity. You will need to lay an additional layer of waterproofing.

mineral wool cannot be crushed, the impermeability of the thermal barrier depends to a large extent on the air contained between the fibers, so you will have to spend money on laying the outer covering so that you can move freely in the attic.

For insulation with mineral wool, workers must install wooden logs. They will allow you to delimit the space into sectors and will become the basis of the future flooring.

The photo shows the process of thermal insulation of the ceiling with mineral wool Source iobogrev.ru

Penoizol insulation

Depending on the type of installation, penoizol is sprayed or poured. But in order to use this material, you will need to contact a specialized company, since specific equipment is used during the work, plus, protective suits for workers and professional skills are needed.

The advantages include:

high degree of penetration into all cracks and microcracks;

incombustibility;

environmental safety for humans;

not of interest to rodents;

the substance contains a large number of air bubbles, which provide high-quality insulation.

The disadvantages include the high cost and fragility of the material, which does not independently restore its shape in case of mechanical damage.

Video description

Which insulation divides heat better, look at the video:

Advice! When working with penoizol, it is recommended to wait for complete solidification, it has a slight shrinkage, which will have to be replenished in order to prevent the formation of voids.

The process of thermal insulation of the ceiling with foam insulation Source lestorg32.ru

Internal insulation

A residential attic, a house for several owners, the presence of utilities in the attic and other situations that make external insulation impossible require thermal insulation from the inside of the room. Bulk materials are not used for obvious reasons.

Video description

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside, see the video:

Sheet, roll or sprayed materials are used. When choosing insulation for the ceiling in a private house, you should pay attention to polystyrene foam boards or compressed mineral wool. They have the best ratio in the price / quality / speed category. Do not forget about penoizol, which will be an excellent option when increasing the budget.

The process of insulating the ceiling from the inside with foam Source nl.decorexpro.com

Thermal insulation of the ceiling from the inside with polystyrene boards Source barmanlive.ru

What to choose - external or internal insulation

The choice between these types of work is based on a combination of factors:

in the absence of finishing, they are equal in terms of the degree of thermal insulation;

if the repair of the room is completed, then you will have to remove the ceiling covering, which will increase the cost and time of work;

laying from the inside reduces the shrinkage of the material, but increases the thickness of the ceiling, reducing the total volume of the room;

with internal insulation, the ceiling overlap is not protected from low temperatures;

external insulation allows the use of a wider range of heat insulators.

Before you insulate the ceiling in a private house, you need to carefully calculate all the pros and cons, only after that you can make an unambiguous decision, which is better to use in your case.

Conclusion

When choosing a certain material for ceiling insulation, it is always better to ask for professional help. Every business has its pitfalls and stumbling upon them, relying on your own strength, is a waste of time and money. It is better to make repairs once, and get a guaranteed high-quality result - this will save you from unnecessary expenses and provide the house with heat for many years to come.

In winter time heat loss ceiling structure is about 15%. Since the house is warm and it is cold outside, condensation forms in the room, creating a favorable atmosphere for the growth of bacteria and fungus. Therefore, it is necessary to think about the effective insulation of the ceiling in the interior of the house.

Peculiarities

main feature insulation of the ceiling from the inside consists in the impossibility of organizing a condenser drain. The situation could be corrected by drainage walls. However, their cost is far from affordable for everyone. Depending on the time of year, the ceiling can quickly heat up and cool down. For this reason, the main ceiling insulation technology is focused on ensuring that condensation does not form in the finished structure.

To create a warm and cozy atmosphere in the house, it is recommended to use mineral wool in the form of a roll or slabs.

In the people, such a heater is called glass wool. If this material is used in conjunction with a false ceiling, drywall will create an insurmountable barrier to the outgoing heat.

The installation of mineral wool should be divided into several stages:

• Assembly and installation of a frame on a metal or wooden base. For this process, it is worth using an electric drill and dowels.
• Filling the free space between the parts with mineral wool. As a fastener, a special glue for tiles is used. It instantly freezes and creates secure fastening material. Do not forget about the additional installation of vapor barrier.
• At the final stage of work, drywall is installed on the ceiling. It is recommended to use self-tapping screws made of hardened steel as fasteners (they have high strength and are able to withstand maximum loads).

To an ordinary person It seems that the installation technology is quite simple. However, any installation process has its own nuances. It is strictly forbidden to press mineral wool. The main effect of heat retention is that the bubbles located in the inner part of the material do not provide heat exchange between the ceiling and the attic.

Spotlights can also create a certain problem. It is known that energy-saving lamps get very hot. The installed insulation will prevent the removal of heat from the lamps, which will lead to their rapid breakdown. An alternative option is to create an additional gap between the lamps and the insulation (obstruction of heat removal and air circulation).

Types and materials

Various shops and building materials markets offer a large selection of heaters. Against this background, several varieties stand out.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is a common textile fiber obtained by various methods. Fiber made from volcanic materials is called stony. Slag wool is created on the basis of blast-furnace slag. Glass wool is a raw material created on the basis of glass melt. As for the thickness of the insulation, the indicator ranges from 2 to 20 cm.

Mineral wool is optimally hygroscopic, over time it is destroyed as a result of ingress of condensate. To prevent this process, when installing the insulation, it is necessary to mount an additional layer of vapor barrier.

Polyethylene foam

Polyethylene foam in the form of a roll on a foil basis is a new generation of insulation. The thickness of such material is from 3 to 20 mm. Polyethylene foam is the most effective material used for ceiling insulation. The small thickness makes it easy to install it in a private house and apartment.

Styrofoam

Styrofoam is a material made from plastic mass in the form of cells. It is produced in the form of squares measuring 1 x 1 m. The thickness of the sheet is from 2 to 10 cm. The density of the material varies between 15-25 kg / m2 (foam 25 kg / m2 is often used to insulate the ceiling). Styrofoam is often used to insulate suspended frames, walls and other coverings of a private house. It has good reviews.

Styrofoam

Extruded polystyrene foam is formed by producing special polymers: the finished insulation is created by extruding the material through a special mold measuring 120x60 cm. The thickness of the finished sheet ranges from 10 to 200 mm. For warming ceiling structures more often, a material with a density of 25-45 kg / cm2 is used. In simple terms, this is foam plastic made using a different technology. Its main difference is the higher strength of the material.

Expanded polystyrene (polystyrene) should be used as a ceiling insulation when subsequent plastering is planned.

You can insulate the ceiling with loose expanded clay. This material is often used for insulation of attic floors. In addition to the basic materials, insulation can be carried out with isolon, penofol, penoplex. It is important to fix the insulation material correctly. The materials are suitable for insulation on the top floor, veranda, basement, attic.

Which to choose?

When choosing a heater, special attention should be paid to combustibility, strength, weight and level of permeability. The cost of insulation is not as important as its effectiveness. There are wooden and concrete floors. concrete structures unlike wooden ceilings, they have a large bearing capacity. Concrete is considered a partially vapor permeable material, but finished slabs lose this indicator.

Wooden ceilings are more common in private homes. Usually attic floors are installed on a wooden base. It is known that the tree is subject to burning and passes any vapors well. If you try to block access to air, over time the tree will begin to rot. It is worth highlighting the key factor influencing the choice of material - the location of the insulation layer. The ceiling can be insulated from the attic side of the house and its inner part. Fans of an inexpensive, simple and affordable option for insulation will suit the attic floor.

Work technology

Experienced experts do not recommend insulating ceilings in the interior of the room. The main reason is the danger of ingress of insulation or its fumes into the room. Consider the best options for the placement and installation of ceiling insulation, observing the technology of work and precautions.

As effective option Expanded polystyrene (EPS) can be used. Installation work begins with the installation of the crate. At the next stage of work, polystyrene foam is installed. The thickness of the insulation should be 3 mm.

Next, measure the space between the rails (no more than 2 mm). The empty space is filled with insulation and fixed with dowels. At the end, drywall is fixed to the crate as a false ceiling. As an alternative, tensile structures can be installed.

Foamed polyethylene is not as effective as a heater. It can be used for insulation in the event that heat loss is small. A crate is mounted on the ceiling and the penofol is fixed with dowels. After installation, a small gap is made on both sides of the material for air ventilation and another crate is installed.

At the end of the work, drywall or stretch ceiling is mounted. As an alternative, penofol is recommended to be used in combination with penoplex.

Additional insulation can be plaster mixtures. They are an excellent insulation for a concrete-based ceiling. Plaster mixtures are highly environmentally friendly. They are non-flammable and fit perfectly into the architectural style of the house. One of the most natural and high-quality do-it-yourself insulation materials inside is cork bark agglomerate. Such material is mounted on the crate. Since the cork bark is not afraid of moisture, vapor barrier is optional.

The insulation of the ceiling in the interior of the room directly depends on the material used. Using foam, the crate can not be installed, since it is perfectly mounted on mastic or glue. Additional strength to other materials is formed by a hinged structure. In wet rooms (for example, a bathroom), a metal profile is additionally used; in other situations, a wooden structure is used. However, to insulate the ceiling without decorative finishes fail.

The profile must be fixed to the dimensions of the insulation. As a waterproofing material, a film or glassine is used. The insulation is mounted without additional gaps. Another layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the insulation and hermetically glued. Foil insulation is mounted with a reflector in the interior of the room. A special crate serves as an additional support element for the subsequent decorative finishing of the ceiling.

When choosing a heater, it is necessary to take into account tips and recommendations, as well as a number of conditions and characteristics of the base material. In more detail, you should analyze the material of construction (concrete, brick, wood), as well as the size and purpose of the room.

Let's highlight the main properties and characteristics for ceiling insulation:

• High level of fire safety (material should not burn).
• The elasticity and elasticity of the material play an important role in the preservation and restoration of insulation.
• Environmental friendliness of the insulation (the main composition of the material should not contain harmful and toxic substances).

The ceiling is the area in the room that is responsible for the preservation of heat. After all, heat rises, and if the ceiling is defective and there are no obstacles in its path, then it slips out. Insulation of the attic space is possible, and now we will look at how to insulate the ceiling from the attic side in various ways.

The need for insulation

Attic insulation in the private sector will be required in the following cases:

1. The house is being prepared for construction and the ceiling consists of beams only.
2. A residential building, but the ceiling needs to be insulated, as it allows cold into the premises.
3. In the attic, the temperature is much lower than in the living room, and so that the heat of an unheated room does not go outside, it is insulated.

Types of heaters

When insulating the ceiling, the following materials are used:

• Sawdust.
• Expanded clay.
• Clay.
• Reeds.
• Seaweed.
• Ecowool.
• Penoplex.
• Minvata.
• Polyurethane foam (foam).

Let's consider each material separately.

Ceiling insulation methods

What are the principles of attic insulation? It's no secret that the best insulation is air. In the current thermal insulation materials there is air, which is enclosed in a form in different ways.

Since the experience of the last century, the air that is locked in the attic has been an excellent insulating "material" as it changes with seasons or weather conditions.

The floor of the attic was insulated with a natural bulk substance. And all this helped to keep the temperature inside the heated room up to + 25 ° C. The positive thing is that these materials do not get damp in the attic due to regular ventilation.

Sawdust

Smear the cracks in the wooden floor with watery clay, pour sand on top, but if the clay cracks in some place, then sand gets into the cavity and the integrity of the coating will not change. Further, the main layer is sawdust (thickness can be either 15–20 cm or 25–30 cm). Sawdust is a combustible material, in order to protect it from fire, a layer of waste slag is poured on top. Boards are laid on top of the slag, for the convenience of walking on the floor.

To protect the sawdust from pests (mice), fill in a layer of slaked lime, mixed with carbonite.

The floor must be protected from excessive moisture. To do this, lay a waterproofing film on the wood floor with the possibility of passing steam from the edge of the living space, or cover the floor with clay, mix sawdust and cement (10: 1, where 10 parts of sawdust, 1 part of cement) and then add 1.5 parts of water . Pour the resulting mixture on the floor of the attic or between the beams of the subfloor. This work is best done in the spring, so that the cement with sawdust dries well in the summer. After drying, the sawdust does not break through, but crunch a little underfoot.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is a heavy substance, it is used to insulate ceilings from concrete floors, because there is a possibility that a wooden ceiling may collapse under the weight of this insulation.

Insulation of the ceiling from the side of the attic begins with a vapor barrier film. It is necessary to cover it with an overlap, and glue the joints with adhesive tape. The overlap on the walls will be up to 50 cm. The wooden rafters and the chimney are pasted over with the same film.

The next step is to place the mixed clay. Further, on top - expanded clay.

In order for the heat-insulating material to be durable, you need to take small and large expanded clay (the fine fraction will perfectly fill the voids, then the backfill will become homogeneous). In cold climates, expanded clay should be laid in a layer of at least 500 mm.

A sand-cement screed is laid on top of the expanded clay in a layer of 50 mm. The solution is quite thick. After drying, such an attic is used as a boiler room. It is fireproof and environmentally friendly.

Clay

Clay in its pure form is not used as a heater, because for effective work thermal insulation, such a layer should be at least 50 cm. For this reason, clay is mixed with straw or sawdust.

Initially, a vapor barrier film is laid on the floor, impermeable to moisture (at that time, a sawdust-clay solution is being prepared). Then into the barrel, with large capacity, add 5 buckets of clay (1 bucket approximately 10 liters).

Clay, being in water, should be almost all dissolved. Pour part of the mixture into the concrete mixer little by little and throw in the sawdust. When mixing the whole consistency, gradually add water.

The solution should be neither thick nor liquid. It must be applied to the ceiling with a layer of 20 cm. The entire surface is leveled and left to dry completely (if cracks occur, they are again smeared with clay).

reeds

A good option would be to insulate the attic in a wooden house with reed mats. Such mats are interconnected by wire or twine, stacked on top of the floors. It is better if they are laid in two layers, so that the cold will not be passed into the premises of the house.

Seaweed

Algae is a natural insulating material. You can buy them in coastal regions at affordable prices by ordering home delivery. Seaweed will not get rodents, they are anti-allergenic, do not burn or smoke.

Due to the fact that the algae is not afraid of moisture, it is not vapor barrier. Ladders are laid on the floor from it, in a layer of 20 cm, and boards are equipped on top.

Ecowool

Cellulose wool (ecowool) is an excellent natural substance that ensures the preservation of heat. Fireproof due to processing boric acid. It perfectly absorbs moisture, for this reason it is not necessary to lay a vapor barrier film. Cellulose wool is laid on both wooden and concrete floors.

With the help of a blowing machine, ecowool is blown into the cracks. The layer, in such a heater, comes out saturated and whole, with an air "prisoner" inside.

A layer of ecowool of 25 cm is sufficient, but in most cases the thermal insulation layer of the attic floor is 40–50 cm. When applying ecowool, at the end of work, water can be sprayed to increase the formation of a solid layer.

Penoplex

Penoplex is polystyrene foam with excellent strength properties. It is used for insulation concrete floor before the concrete floor is poured. Such material is not used for wooden floors, because it will not “breathe”, as a result of which fungi and mold will appear on the tree.

Before laying, the attic floor is leveled, after which the vapor barrier material is laid. Next, the plates are laid out with a run, and the surface is fixed with dowels with a cap. Fill the joints with mounting foam, and when it dries, fill it with a sand-cement screed in a layer of 5 cm.

mineral wool

The most popular insulation material is mineral wool. It is available in rolls and in rigid boards.

A vapor barrier material is laid between the wooden beams (since mineral wool is incompatible with moisture). The film is spread with an overlap, gluing the joints with adhesive tape.

From the side of the walls, an allowance of 150-250 mm is made. After that, rolls of cotton wool are placed in a thickness of 200–250 mm. The rolls should enter the space with little effort, cut with a margin of 20 mm (greater than the distance of the beams). Then the mineral wool is covered with wooden boards (with a gap between the board and the wool of 3 mm).

If the floor is concrete, then the concrete floors are leveled, then a vapor barrier film is covered, and tiled mineral wool is laid on top of it. Then the flooring is equipped with wood, plywood or other materials.

Do not screed on mineral wool, as concrete has poor vapor permeability, because of this, the main rules of thermal insulation will be violated.

Polyurethane foam (foam)

Polyurethane foam is a non-combustible insulation material, neutral for insects and microorganisms, has good soundproofing and waterproofing properties, tolerates temperature changes perfectly, with no cold bridges.

The material is sprayed under high pressure. So, it gets into all the cracks, enveloping all the protruding elements. The layer of such material is 100–120 mm.

The process of insulating an attic in a private house is simple, the main thing is to figure out what kind of material for insulation is most acceptable in your case.

Video

You can learn more about how to insulate the ceiling from the attic side by watching the video:

Scheme

The schemes proposed by us will help you to insulate the ceiling with high quality:

www.stroitelstvosovety.ru

How and what is better to insulate the ceiling in a private house

In order to keep the heat in the room, it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation measures. 15% of all heat loss occurs through the ceiling. Before you carry out the insulation of your ceiling in a private house with your own hands, you need to correctly select the material and familiarize yourself with the technology of work. Activities can be performed in several ways, it all depends on the type of insulated ceiling.

Ways to perform work

The ceiling insulation technology assumes the existence of only two installation options:

• outside the premises;
• from inside the room.

When choosing between them, several factors are taken into account. The article is about holding events in a private house, it is worth remembering that the insulation in the apartment is carried out according to the same principle, but the work can only be done from below, since the insulation from above affects the upper apartment or attic - the common house area.

Outside ceiling insulation scheme

Most often in apartment buildings insulation is required to increase the sound insulation of interfloor ceilings or thermal insulation of the ceiling of the last floor.

In a private house, the choice of method is limited only by the decision of the owner of the house. Carrying out measures for interfloor ceilings (as sound insulation) is not required, they carry out thermal protection of the ceiling of the last floor in the presence of an unheated attic. It is worth noting that a competent option is the thermal insulation of the ceiling from the outside, from the side of cold air. This has the following advantages:

The phased process of insulating the ceiling with mineral wool

• in addition to the room, the floor structure is insulated, which increases its service life;
• ceiling insulation from the attic side does not reduce the height of the upper floor;
• the work does not require serious efforts (when fixing the insulation from below, you must constantly keep your head up and use a ladder or other means of access);
• at different ways thermal insulation measures, the location of the dew point (condensation point) changes, when warmed from the side of warm air, it gets into the thickness of the floor pie, which can cause problems in the future;
• the method does not affect the interior decoration of the premises, if in the future it is necessary to replace the insulation, the work can be done quickly and without additional financial costs.

If necessary, the ceiling can be insulated from the inside.

Insulation from the attic

Thermal protection from the side of cold air is best carried out with materials that have a high density and rigidity. An attic is a space in which it is necessary to provide access for the passage of a person. If compressible, fragile material is laid on top of the attic floor, it may crumple, deform or collapse and cease to perform its functions. When choosing a heater for this method, strength is as important as thermal conductivity.

The scheme of insulation of the ceiling in the attic

Before you insulate the ceiling in a private house, you need to familiarize yourself with the order of work:

1. The attic space is cleared of debris and dirt. The insulation must lie on a clean and even base.
2. The space is measured, the required amount of thermal insulation material is calculated.
3. Depending on the material chosen, a vapor barrier layer is provided. It must be laid on the side of warm air relative to the heat insulator. Not all materials need vapor barrier, if the insulation is moisture resistant and has a low moisture absorption coefficient, no additional measures are required.
4. Laying is carried out in two ways, the choice between which depends on the strength of the purchased material. If thermal protection is carried out with a high-strength insulation, it can be laid under a cement-sand screed. To increase the reliability of the structure, the screed is taken with a thickness of at least 2 cm and is additionally reinforced with wire reinforcement with a diameter of 3-4 mm. If the strength of the heat insulator is not high enough, installation is carried out between the lags. Availability wooden frame allows you to remove the load on the floor of the room from the insulation and transfer it through the bars to the ceiling.
5. After installation of the heat-insulating layer, waterproofing is provided. It will prevent the insulation from getting wet from the outside. Water in the attic can appear during roof leaks or liquid spills, waterproofing in case of unforeseen situations protects the heat-insulating layer from loss of performance. The simplest material for waterproofing is polyethylene film.
6. The next step is the installation of the floor pie.

Warming from the inside

Before you insulate the ceiling, choose a fairly light material. In contrast to the installation of thermal protection from the outside, the insulation of the ceiling from the inside does not require the use of durable heat insulators. In this case, they try to choose the insulation that will hold securely on a horizontal surface. The smaller all the layers, the easier it is to mount it.

An example of correct and incorrect installation of insulation

To understand how to properly insulate the ceiling in this case, you need to familiarize yourself with the order of work:

1. As with the previous method, first the surface is cleaned of dirt and dust. Calculate the required amount of material.
2. Next, the installation of a wooden or metal frame is required. If during installation from the outside it can be laid without additional bars or boards, then when installing from below, it is better to ensure reliable fastening. The ceiling structure is subsequently attached to the frame. As frame elements, wooden boards or bars or aluminum are used. ceiling profile.
3. The insulation is placed between the guides. Mounting can be glued to the ceiling or using fasteners to the frame. Both of these options are often used together.
4. The final stage is the installation of the ceiling.

Materials for insulation

The choice of thermal insulation layer depends on the method of insulation and the financial capabilities of the owner of the house. To answer the question, what is the best way to insulate the ceiling, you need to distribute the materials that can be used for each case.

For the top method use:

• rigid mineral wool boards (for more details, see the article “Insulation of your ceiling in a private house with mineral wool”);
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• polystyrene of high strength grades, placed between the lags or under a reinforced screed;
• polyurethane foam (only between the lags);
• sawdust;
• expanded clay.

The last two options are suitable for those who care about the environmental component of construction. Expanded clay and sawdust are an inexpensive and natural option for thermal insulation.

When insulating the ceiling from the side of the room, you can use:

• Styrofoam;
• mineral wool in mats;
• polyurethane foam.

These materials have light weight and fixed without problems. Before you properly insulate the ceiling, you need to prepare.

Study the advantages and disadvantages of each material and make the right choice. A careful approach will allow you to perform insulation for many years.

domzastroika.ru

We insulate the ceiling in a house with a cold roof

Ceiling insulation in a house with a cold roof

Builders often charge a lot of money for work on roof insulation. This is motivated by the fact that these are labor-intensive works that are carried out on weight. To save money, insulation mansard roof wooden house can be done independently. Special qualifications are not needed here, special equipment is not required. And it doesn’t matter if your roof is made of ondulin, metal tile or slate, gable or broken structure. However, modern insulating materials and proven cold roof insulation technology have many nuances that you need to know.

It is not difficult to make the roof warm, and the premises of a private wooden house suitable for year-round use. The main thing is to create good conditions to keep the heat inside the attic. How to insulate the roof, what materials to use, we will consider in this article. Insulation issues can be addressed both during the construction of the house, and after, by reconstructing the upper floor.

Features of a cold roof

In accordance with the laws of physics and convection processes, warm air masses rise to the top. In the presence of a cold roof of a wooden house, all the heat will go outside. Such heat losses make it necessary to additionally heat the premises in the house, spending electricity or fuel. Therefore, high-quality insulation of ceiling slabs is the most important task for maintaining heat, rational use of heat carriers and creating a microclimate in the house.

Attic roof insulation

Cold refers to the construction of a gable or broken roof, which does not have a multilayer structure. In such inexpensive and simple roofs, there is no waterproofing, vapor barrier and thermal insulation.

cold roof insulation

The design scheme of a gable cold roof is very simple - as a rule, a floor of boards is laid on the beams of a wooden floor, and the roof is made of slate or metal tiles, without any insulators. In order to properly insulate a cold roof, you need to know what requirements apply to the design of the ceiling of the upper floor and attic floors. And also you should choose the right insulation material.

Scheme of gable roof rafters

Requirements for roofing

When starting to insulate a roof made of ondulin, slate or metal tiles, broken or hip, you should know which building codes and rules exist for the floors of a private wooden house. In order not to violate the basic parameters that the attic design must meet, the thermal insulation of the ceiling and the insulation of the mansard roof from the inside should be carried out taking into account the basic requirements. For attic floors and ceilings, this is strength and compliance with fire safety standards.

roofing cake

The strength of the attic floors must correspond to the nature of the under-roof space. If an attic is arranged in the attic, then the ceilings must withstand the weight of the floors, furniture and people in it. Floor beams must not sag, and the allowable load cannot exceed 100 kg per square meter.

Load on the gable roof truss system

The second basic requirement - fire safety is especially important for a wooden house. All structural elements must be treated with special flame retardants.

Gable roof truss system

Types of heat-insulating materials

In order to qualitatively insulate the structure wooden ceiling and the entire roof of metal tiles use a variety of heat insulators.

Types of heaters

Main types:

• polystyrene and foam plastic;
• mineral wool;
• ecowool;
• glass wool;
• foamed polyurethane;

Each of the listed heaters has its pros and cons. The choice of insulation for the ceiling and for metal tiles depends on various factors. Therefore, you should familiarize yourself with each type of heat insulator in more detail in order to understand the better it is to insulate the ceiling floors and the entire upper floor.

Insulation of a mansard roof made of metal tiles

Budget options for insulation

In addition to the listed thermal insulation materials, there are inexpensive, bulk heaters. Such materials also carry out the insulation of the mansard roof. Bulk heat insulators include:

• sawdust and shavings;
• expanded clay;
• slag;
• ecowool.

To prevent the crumb of insulation from waking up through the cracks of the wooden floor, you can lay a plastic film.

Ecowool insulation

But remember at the same time that there will be no vapor barrier, since polyethylene does not allow moisture to pass through, which can condense in the room of the upper floor. Backfill insulation requires calculations of the strength of the floors. It is necessary to make sure that the beams can withstand a considerable weight of bulk insulator, as well as slate or metal tiles.

Ceiling insulation from the outside with expanded clay

Another economical option for ceiling insulation is the installation of corrugated cardboard. Sheets of material are fastened with self-tapping screws or building brackets to the attic floor. Joints and seams are sealed with polyurethane foam. Electrical wiring is retracted into corrugated channels, protecting wooden structures from fire.

Roof insulation with corrugated cardboard

General scheme of ceiling insulation

Roof and ceiling structures are the most vulnerable elements to heat loss in a home. They account for from 15 to 40 percent of the total heat transfer of the house, regardless of the roofing material - metal tiles or slate. In addition, to create a comfortable climate in the house, a vapor barrier must be made to protect the insulation from evaporation, as well as waterproofing of the ceiling and attic floor.

Scheme of vapor barrier, waterproofing and roof insulation

It is recommended to carry out the insulation of a wooden house in a complex way, arranging the thermal insulation of the roof from the inside and the ceiling at the same time. This will save insulating material, since two ten-centimeter layers of heat insulator with an air gap in the attic space replace a layer of the same insulation with a thickness of 25-30 cm. Thus, about forty percent of thermal insulation is saved. External insulation of the ceiling with simultaneous thermal insulation of the roof from the side of the attic will give a good effect and will avoid dampness of the lower rooms. Such thermal insulation can be carried out without dismantling the roof of metal tiles and the ceiling of the upper floor.

Reflective roof insulation

Features of ceiling insulation

They consist in the fact that when installing thermal insulation, there is no way to organize the removal of condensate, which is formed due to the temperature difference between the attic and lower rooms. In addition, depending on the season, there is a change of warm and cold sides. Therefore, when installing thermal insulation of a wooden ceiling, it is necessary to provide for the complete absence of condensate on the insulation.

Scheme of ceiling insulation in a wooden house

You can prevent the formation of condensate by laying a special vapor barrier - a film material that allows moisture to pass through in one direction.

It should be laid in such a way that there is a gap between the insulation material and the film.

It should be noted that when insulating the ceiling, the correct use of the separating film is of great importance. Below we will consider their varieties.

Ceiling insulation

Membranes and release film materials

Modern technologies allow the use of more and more diverse materials that allow water, steam and other substances to pass or repel. Years of proven glassine, roofing felt and tar used on slate roofs or metal roofing, fade into the background and are rarely used. Technological membrane-type insulating films are much lighter, more convenient to use and, importantly, perform their function more purposefully and efficiently. In addition, they are reliable, strong and durable, and their thickness is much less. The correct scheme of their application is important.

Super diffusion membrane for pitched roofs

Enlarged insulating materials can be divided into two groups.

1) Vapor barrier. For this purpose, so-called vapor barriers are used - thin-layer materials that do not allow evaporation to pass through. In turn, they can be:

• film;
• foil;
• foiled with a capillary substrate (folgoizol).

The vapor barrier protects the roof insulation

2) Waterproofing. It is carried out with materials that do not allow moisture and any liquids to pass through, called membranes. Are divided into:

• simple film with one layer;
• microperforated with steam penetration in both directions;
• superdiffusion, with vapor permeation in one direction.

Roof waterproofing

Vapor barrier is best arranged using polypropylene film materials, the thickness of which is from 55 microns. Polyethylene films are not suitable for evaporation protection, since they let air through regardless of their thickness, due to their structural features.

The PVC film is sensitive to temperature changes and changes in humidity, it can perform its role poorly over time, and even crack.

For a foil vapor barrier, polyethylene can be used as a base, since the foil prevents the penetration of vapors.

Fastening the foil vapor barrier

Waterproofing can be done with a simple polyethylene film.

But polyethylene is suitable only in heated houses with slate or metal roofing.

When insulating the ceiling of a cold roof, a film with microperforation and a three-layer reinforced coating is needed. The reinforcing layer will not allow the film to sag and will provide a ventilation gap.

cold roof ceiling insulation

Thus, having studied the properties of insulating materials and the features of their use, we can conclude that waterproofing and thermal insulation of the cold ceiling of the house on our own is a completely feasible task.

Proper insulation of the attic and attic ceiling

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How to insulate the ceiling and attic floor

• The better to insulate the ceiling
• Insulation of concrete floors
• Conclusion

In a heated private house, a large amount of heat will escape through the roof, if measures are not taken and the ceiling of the upper floor is not properly insulated. The physics of the process is known: heated and lighter air is displaced into the upper zone of the room, bordering the cold attic, where it gives off heat to the uninsulated floor. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to arrange a barrier in the form of a layer of thermal insulation on the path of the heat flow. In this material, we will just talk about how to properly insulate the ceiling or attic floor with your own hands and the better to isolate this horizontal structure.

The better to insulate the ceiling

When choosing insulation for a ceiling located under a cold roof, one should take into account regulatory fire requirements. The fact is that for all types of floors these requirements are quite stringent, which makes it impossible to use combustible materials for thermal insulation. In short and in simple words, the insulation layer should not reduce the standard fire resistance of the structure. That is, combustible materials cannot be used to insulate ceilings under a cold attic, hemmed to wooden beams, as well as interfloor wooden floors and the same ceilings above the basement.

For reference. Wooden floor beams and other supporting structures, in accordance with the requirements of regulatory documents, must be impregnated with a special fire-fighting compound, and the gaps between them must be filled with non-combustible materials.

Accordingly, the answer to the frequently asked question, is it possible to insulate the ceiling with foam plastic from the inside along wooden beams, is quite clear - it is impossible. This also applies to the use of extruded polystyrene foam and foam plastic. It turns out that the list of heaters suitable for thermal insulation of wooden structures is quite limited:

• non-combustible basalt (stone) wool, sold in slabs and rolls;
• bulk fire-resistant heaters - expanded clay, perlite;
• traditional folk material - sawdust mixed with clay.

Note. Not bad resists open fire and a coating of polyurethane foam applied by spraying. But the resistance time is limited, with prolonged exposure, the insulation changes its structure and collapses.

Mineral wool, made on the basis of fiberglass, is not suitable, as it can withstand temperatures not exceeding 200 ° C. The same applies to the actively advertised ecowool. Although it does not burn, ecowool cannot serve as both a ceiling insulation and a fire barrier. Judging by the degree of popularity among homeowners, the best way insulation in this case - basalt mineral wool. Other listed materials in comparison with it have too high thermal conductivity.

Of course, you can violate fire safety requirements and insulate your private house with anything, no sanctions are provided for this. But it should be remembered that as a result of such actions, the risk of a rapid collapse of the ceilings during a fire increases, which leads to very negative consequences.

Another thing is the insulation of concrete floors, which themselves have a high degree of fire resistance. Here it is possible to use any polymeric heaters - polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and foam plastic. At the same time, it is strongly recommended to insulate the ceiling not from the inside, but from the outside, such a solution will be the most correct in all respects.

Wood floor insulation

As a rule, the ceiling under a cold roof is insulated from the side of the attic. To do this, the first step is to hem the ceilings from below, so that mineral wool or expanded clay can be safely laid between the beams. The filing will serve as a support for it, which means it must be designed for the appropriate load. This is especially true of expanded clay or clay with sawdust, whose weight is quite significant.

The second important stage is the laying of a vapor barrier layer. It is well known that mineral wool absorbs moisture well, so do-it-yourself attic floor insulation should include a protective film layer and an air gap for ventilation. Due to this, water vapor from the living quarters will not get inside the insulation, and those that condense on the vapor barrier will disappear through the air gap. The general scheme of laying the heat-insulating layer on the ceiling under the roof is shown in the figure:

Film sheets should be laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm, after which the joint is carefully glued with construction tape. The organization of the air opening is carried out by arranging an internal crate made of bars up to 50 mm wide, to which the finishing coating of the ceilings is nailed. From the side of the roof, the insulation is covered with a diffusion membrane, which protects against wind and water drops, but allows steam to pass through.

Advice. Vapor barrier can be equipped using thin foil insulation - isolon or penofol. Then the canvases are laid end-to-end, and the seams are sealed with a special aluminum tape.

Moisture that is formed in the thickness of the material due to the occurrence of the dew point will be removed by ventilation from the attic, so that the thermal insulation will work correctly and for a long time. It should be noted that often the height of the beams is not enough to lay a heater of the calculated thickness between them. That is why below in the diagram with suspended ceilings showing the laying of mineral wool in 2 layers: one between the beams, the other on top of them. Expanded clay is simply poured into the openings on top of the vapor barrier.

Note. In the same way, the attic ceiling is insulated, that is, its horizontal part. The composition of the heat-insulating "pie" is the same as for the ceiling, the thickness of the insulation is the same as on the walls of the attic.

Installation of ceiling insulation can also be done in the reverse order - from below, from the side of the room. There is not much difference, only the work is not so convenient to perform, and even the vapor barrier must be done with a release on the walls of 15-20 cm, otherwise moisture can penetrate along the edges of the “pie”. This is especially true in wet areas such as bathrooms. More on this topic is described in the video:

As for the insulation of interfloor wooden floors, it often does not make sense to perform it. It appears only if you plan to isolate the second floor from the first and heat them separately in order to save money.

In such a situation, the insulation between floors will have to be protected from vapors on both sides, as shown in the diagram:

Insulation of concrete floors

It is best to insulate the concrete ceiling of the upper floor from the outside, but it is convenient to do this during the construction process. After all, it is necessary to lay on top of the insulation roofing protecting the house from rain. The sequence of work is as follows:

• cleaning and leveling the concrete surface;
• organization of inclined surfaces for water drainage using a monolithic screed;
• laying waterproofing with a release at the edges;
• laying insulation in 1 or 2 layers;
• installation of a cement-sand screed up to 5 cm thick;
• spreading and sealing roofing.

The "pie" of the correct insulation of the concrete ceiling from the outside is shown in the diagram:

If the roofing is already available, then it is not advisable to open it to organize thermal insulation; instead, you can insulate the ceiling from the inside. The easiest way for this purpose is to take expanded polystyrene or penoplex, which do not have to be protected from moisture. Material slabs are attached to the concrete surface in 2 ways:

• first, wooden logs are installed, a heater is inserted between them, and the gaps are sealed with foam;
• foam boards are attached directly to the ceiling by means of dowels in the form of umbrellas.

Advice. When installing a log or fastening polystyrene foam, be careful when drilling holes so that the dowel does not fall into the void.

When there are lags, it is convenient to mount any topcoat. At the same time, the installation of insulation on dowels is practiced when installing stretch ceilings. When mineral wool is used as an insulator, then the organization of a vapor barrier and an air gap is mandatory, so here you can’t do without a log and a counter-lattice.

The concrete ceiling above the unheated basement also needs to be insulated, since in this situation a lot of heat will escape through the floors of the first floor. There are 2 options here: insulate the basement ceiling or the floors on the ground floor.

The choice often falls on the second option, since it is more convenient to isolate the floors of the first floor. There are also two ways of thermal insulation: on the logs and under the screed, both of them are reflected in the diagrams:

Conclusion

The issue of insulation of ceilings and attic floors is not easy and requires a thorough approach. Particular attention should be paid to the installation of hydro and vapor barrier, since the service life of the insulation depends on the tightness of these layers. Also, do not save on its thickness, otherwise you will spend a lot of time and effort, and the result will remain far from expected.

When installing good ceiling insulation in a residential building with a cold roof, heating costs are saved and heat losses are reduced. For this, heat-insulating building products are used, various in type of manufacture and composition. It is important to know which heaters are the most effective and how to properly insulate the attic floor to increase the thermal efficiency of the building.

Need for ceiling insulation

Warming the ceiling of the house allows you to raise the room temperature in the premises, but condensation may appear in the attic. When warm air rises, it comes into contact with cold air, condensing moisture droplets. As a result of this process, the heat-insulating material is saturated with water and begins to actively rot with the formation of fungus and mold. To avoid this phenomenon, it is necessary to change the physical conditions in the attic floor.

concrete ceiling

Since concrete has a high thermal conductivity, it consumes heat but remains cold. As a result, condensate is formed, which can destroy the structure of the material when it freezes. Therefore, the insulation of the attic floor reinforced concrete slab occurs with the obligatory use of a vapor-permeable insulation to remove moisture to the outside.

If it is not possible to insulate the ceiling from the outside, then the material will have to be laid from the inside, but then it must be impervious to steam in order to protect the concrete from moisture. You will also need a layer of vapor barrier for additional protection.

wooden ceiling

Wood is susceptible to decay and attack by various bacteria. If the thermal regime is not properly organized, the floor will get wet and intensively destroyed. In this case, the insulation of the wooden ceiling can be carried out both from the inside and outside. With the external method, you can significantly save space, and with the internal method, impenetrable high-quality material is required. It is also recommended to lay a vapor barrier between the ceiling and the insulation for greater protection.

Varieties of vapor barrier

When insulating the ceiling of a cold attic, the installation of a vapor barrier layer is important process, because due to its absence, the whole procedure will be impractical. After installing the insulation from the inside, the state of the ceiling will be unknown, and all kinds of impacts on it will be hidden. In the future, this may be the reason for the partial or complete restoration of the overlap. The most effective way to protect it is to install a vapor barrier.

Vapor barrier

Represents a conventional polyethylene film as an airtight barrier to wet steam. To save money, a simple polyethylene sleeve can be used, as it has the same properties as other polyethylene materials. Laying is carried out in overlapping strips of 15-20 cm and an overlap on wall structures up to 15 cm. The joints must be glued with adhesive tape to achieve tightness.

When installing from the inside of the room, the film is laid only on top of the impermeable insulation, the same applies to installation on a concrete floor. If the insulation is carried out in the attic, then polyethylene is located between wooden structure and a heat insulator.

Membrane

It is a film where only one side is permeable. It prevents the penetration of moisture, but does not prevent it from coming out. They are used to protect the heat-insulating material from getting wet and deoxidized.

If the attic floor is insulated on wooden beams with mineral wool, then the vapor barrier membrane will ensure the free release of steam, but will protect the insulation from external moisture, while maintaining its operational properties.

Features of cold roofs

To protect a residential building from the effects of external phenomena, a cold-type roof is arranged. There are many thermal insulation products that help reduce heat loss. The temperature inside and outside the attic should vary within 4 ° C, so the air through the ventilation ducts should enter the attic, and not into the space under the roof. Then the humidity and temperature indicators will correspond to the street. Otherwise, the imbalance of modes will lead to the destruction of the truss structure and roofing.

The advantages of a cold roof are:

1. Ease of maintenance. The roof has free space for access to any point, so repair and preventive measures are carried out without difficulty.
2. Good waterproofing. A warm attic involves the use of add-ons that violate the integrity of the waterproofing material. When installing a cold roof, installation of additional elements is not required.
3. useful use. Despite the fact that the temperature in the attic is lower, it can be used as a temporary warehouse, and later converted into an additional room.
4. Minimum heat transfer surface area. Heat loss is only possible through the ceiling.

Inlet and outlet vents work most effectively at a great distance from each other. When they are arranged under the wind board along the entire length, a full-fledged air exchange of the entire attic space is ensured. Inlet openings are located in places of greatest pressure, due to which the intensity of blowing increases.

Read also: Stages of building a foundation with your own hands

A cold roof is arranged on various types of buildings with a height of 1-5 floors. Therefore, the installation of thermal protection on the ceiling is carried out with an estimated thickness depending on the material and location region ( climatic conditions). Often it is laid in a layer of 20-50 cm. It is equally important to take into account the exit areas of ventilation and chimneys through the attic floor. It is these zones that contribute to the maximum removal of heat to the outside.

Advantages of ceiling insulation

Roof insulation should be calculated at the stage of building a house. But often this question arises when the building is already finished, where thermal insulation was not provided earlier. When insulating a reinforced concrete or wooden ceiling in a house with a cold roof, you can get the following benefits:

1. Maintaining the microclimate by preventing the penetration of heated air from the street in the summer season.
2. In winter, it will protect the room from serious heat loss through the ceiling.
3. The insulation additionally has soundproofing properties. Therefore, discomfort will not be created during heavy rain, wind or extraneous noise on the street.

Effective ways to insulate the ceiling

There are several types of attic floor insulation: from the inside by nailing the insulation to the ceiling, and from the outside, using a rolled product and rolling it over the attic surface. Both methods are very practical, the main difference is the choice of the appropriate product and installation method.

Work indoors

When warming from the inside, you can use mineral wool due to its high heat-insulating and vapor-permeable properties. Often it is laid inside a suspended structure made of metal profiles and sheathed with drywall. However, it is forbidden to compress it, as it has air gaps. When compressed, they disappear, and the thermal performance decreases sharply.

Important! Despite the effectiveness, mineral and basalt wool is recommended to be used only for external insulation. Due to their low strength, the microfibers separate and, if ingested, cause side effects and serious illness.

Other materials can also be installed on the frame or screwed directly to the ceiling, taking into account the laying of the vapor barrier layer.

Work outdoors

From the side of the attic, it is recommended to lay rolled or slab material, since it does not require careful fixation or frame manufacturing. This is a practical way, since the insulation does not take away the useful height of the room. Before carrying out work, the surface should be thoroughly cleaned of foreign debris. Laying can be carried out in one or two layers with a thickness of 30-50 cm using mounting foam to fasten them.

If the attic space is not used in the future, then additional coatings are not required. If it will be equipped for storing things, then the insulation is covered with plank flooring or sheet moisture-resistant plywood. When using bulk materials, coating is also not required, but this does not apply to dry leaves or sawdust.

• thickness should be calculated according to the region of residence and type of material;
• based on the selected product, you should know how to properly insulate the ceiling with a cold roof to ensure maximum effect;
• when laying several materials on top of each other, the vapor barrier indicators should increase from the bottom to the top (the other way around is impossible);
• mineral wool cannot be covered with expanded clay or vermiculite in order to avoid its punching;
• it is forbidden to lay vapor barrier on both sides of the heat insulator, so as not to lock in moisture and not spoil the material;
• all joints of the connection of steam and heat-insulating materials must be sealed to eliminate cold bridges. For this, adhesive tapes, mounting foam, a special solution or glue are used.

Required Tools

To carry out thermal insulation work, you will need tools such as: fasteners (self-tapping screws, screws, dowels, anchors, liquid nails), building brackets, tape measure, concrete puncher, screwdriver, hammer, construction knife for cutting sheet products.

The material is a heater, a vapor barrier film or membrane, metal profiles to create a frame, wooden bars 3x3 cm or 5x5 cm.

What is the best insulation for the ceiling in a brick house

For effective insulation ceiling in a house with a cold roof from the outside and from the inside, the following types of material are used:

1. Monolithic - has a high density and water resistance, while the dew point goes in any direction without deteriorating the properties of the insulation. These include extruded polystyrene foam.
2. Fibrous or porous - produced in the form roll material or mats. They are highly exposed to moisture saturation and lose their characteristics, therefore they are used only in conjunction with a vapor barrier. There are such types: mineral wool, slab and sheet polyurethane foam.
3. Bulk or sprayed - the first option is laid manually, and the second only with the help of special equipment.

From the outside, insulation along the wooden beams of the attic floor is carried out using light rolled or bulk materials (sawdust, leaves). For concrete slabs you can lay a dense monolith, slabs or heavy bulk material (expanded clay).

Features of insulation for outdoor use

Work from the attic can be carried out with the following materials:

Material	Description
Plate and roll
reeds	Represents mats that fit in two layers. It is environmentally friendly with high thermal properties. Disadvantages: increased fire hazard, susceptibility to attack by rodents and insects, rotting in high humidity.
Seaweed	A popular material in coastal regions. Refers to environmentally friendly and efficient heat insulators. They are laid in one layer outside the attic and covered with boardwalk. Resistant to moisture, insects and rodents.
Penoplex	It is a type of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) with high strength. It is not used for wooden floors due to complete vapor tightness. Before laying the insulation, the concrete base is leveled and covered with a vapor barrier film. After insulation, the material is poured with a cement-sand mortar up to 50 mm thick. During operation, you can move on the surface.
Mineral wool	The most common material that is available in plate and roll versions. Between wooden lags it is recommended to lay mineral wool in the form of mats, and for concrete floors - in a roll type. Plank flooring is required to use the base as a floor.
sprayed
polyurethane foam	It has a number of advantages, however, due to the absolute vapor impermeability, it can disrupt the microclimate in the premises. It is applied using special equipment under high pressure, so self-insulation is impossible. The foam layer with optimal thermal performance has a thickness of up to 12 cm.
Ecowool	A modern heat-insulating material that is laid on a wooden and concrete base without the use of vapor barrier products. However, experts recommend nevertheless laying in order to avoid the ingress of insulation into the room through joints and cracks. It is also installed using an installation that provides a monolithic coating with the filling of all defects in the ceiling. The layer thickness is 25-40 cm depending on the region. Maybe independent use and application to the surface.
Bulk
Sawdust	Most popular in conditions where you can get it for free or at an extremely low cost. For a ceiling with a cold roof, the layer thickness is 15-30 cm. The disadvantage is the increased flammability, therefore they are additionally covered with a slag layer. Before laying, a layer of carbide and slaked lime is arranged as a protection against rodents and insects. Sawdust is often used in conjunction with cement or clay.
Expanded clay	Relatively light, used for insulation of different fractions: 0-5 mm, 5-20 mm, 20-40 mm. In cold regions, the thickness of the embankment layer is 40-50 cm, for a temperate climate - no more than 20 cm. If the attic is not used, the material does not require additional coverage, otherwise you can make a plank floor or fill it with a layer of cement-sand screed up to 5 cm .

Read also: Finishing the plinth with plaster: features various kinds finishing, step-by-step technique

Insulation for indoor use

Insulation of the ceiling in the premises is not recommended, however, in the absence of other options, this is possible. Since the house is quite warm and humid, the material can be exposed to mold and mildew. To avoid this, it is necessary to create a ventilation gap between it and the finish up to 3 cm thick, which will take even more room height.

As a heater on the ceiling in a private house, the following products are used:

1. Penofol - is a double material of foil and polyethylene foam. Used in areas with temperate climate, as it has average thermal insulation. It can be used as an independent layer, or combined with other types.
2. Expanded polystyrene - practical for concrete floors. Fits into a crate with a depth of about 3 cm and closes finishing material(lining, drywall, Armstrong, stretch ceiling).
3. Plaster mortars - they are distinguished by high moisture resistance, fire resistance and decorative appearance. The mixture is used only for concrete bases and includes heat-insulating components.
4. Cork - cork material is moisture resistant, therefore it is used without vapor barrier. It is environmentally friendly, can serve not only as a heater, but also as a finishing material in a certain room design.

When choosing a heat insulator, you should pay attention to the material of manufacture of the ceiling and financial possibilities. Wooden ones are recommended to be insulated with dry products, and concrete slabs or coated with special compounds.

Methods of internal insulation of the ceiling of a cold attic

Before an external or internal insulation it is necessary to calculate the thickness of the material according to the formula R=δ/λ, where:

• R - resistance to heat transfer (according to the region of residence, for Moscow - 4.7 m² ° С / W);
• δ is the thickness of the insulation layer;
• λ is the thermal conductivity of the material (according to normative document GOST).

Work begins with a thorough cleaning of the surface from debris, dust, cobwebs or moisture. When laying the product on the ceiling, be sure to leave a ventilation gap to protect against mold and moisture accumulation.

The use of penofol

Penofol consists of foamed polyethylene and a foil layer, it is used for buildings with a low level of heat loss due to low thermal insulation performance. To install insulation on the ceiling, you need to create a crate. The product is rolled out on the surface of the frame and fixed with nails. The foil layer should look inside the room.

The creation of ventilation gaps on both sides provides for the presence of an additional crate, which will later be closed with sheet finishing coatings or a stretch ceiling. The most effective use of penofol is possible in conjunction with penoplex to increase thermal insulation properties.

The use of penoplex from the inside

The material is practical for both outdoor and indoor use for thermal insulation of cold roof ceilings. Warming is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. A crate is made of a wooden beam with a thickness exceeding the thickness of extruded polystyrene foam by 0.3-0.4 cm. The step between the slats is equal to the width of the insulation sheet minus 1-2 mm.
2. The material is installed in the cells, and with the correct assembly of the frame, the plates should fit snugly with little effort.
3. The crate is closed with plasterboard, suspended or stretch ceiling.

Attention! To increase the reliability, penoplex can be fixed to the ceiling using dowel-nails of the "umbrella" type. The wide cap allows you to press it tightly without pushing through the fasteners.

Polyurethane foam and plaster mixes

Polyurethane foam belongs to modern high-performance products and allows you to create an ideal heat-insulating layer to reduce the heat transfer coefficient. The advantages when used on ceilings are:

• resistance to insects, bacteria;
• fire resistance;
• high sound and waterproofing;
• high adhesive properties with various types of coatings;
• resistance to temperature changes.

Uncomfortable temperature in the rooms, with "astronomical" figures in gas receipts, is a sure sign of poor thermal insulation of a private house, in particular, the ceiling. For the most part, through it, obeying all the laws of physics, heated air seeps into the atmosphere. Modern ones make it easy to prevent this, but due to various circumstances, it is not always possible to work from the side of the attic. and strike a balance of efficiency, cost and environmental friendliness, read below.

Materials for interior work: what is better to use

Most often, ceiling insulation from the attic is impossible due to the low roof slope or too thin beams. Often the reason is the elementary lack of access. In this case, you need to mount a heater inside the room. This complicates the work, increases their cost. You have to think about the availability, make a new "finishing" ceiling. The impossibility of using the most common, cheap, easy-to-use heat-insulating materials, such as expanded clay and sawdust.

For internal works not every material is suitable. The main condition is compliance with the following requirements:

• high fire resistance;
• environmental friendliness, at room temperature the material should not emit substances harmful to humans;
• durability, resistance to fungus;
• adequate price;
• sufficient efficiency with a minimum thickness, which is especially critical for low ceilings;
• low specific gravity, so as not to load the structures of wooden floors.

Of course, there is no insulation that would fit the listed conditions without restrictions, however, there are materials that have a good average balance of parameters, which allows them to be used to insulate the ceiling in a house with a cold roof.

First of all, it is:

• Styrofoam;
• polyethylene foam;
• mineral wool.

The quality of the materials used directly determines how efficient and durable it will be. Accordingly, this issue requires detailed consideration.

Properties, advantages and disadvantages of materials

The suitability of the insulation is determined for each case individually and depends on the material from which the ceiling is made, its height, and the financial situation of the owner. In "severe" cases, one has to reckon with the interior of the house and even with the presence of rodents. To speed up the choice, to make it right will help to study the features of each of the heaters, their positive and negative sides.

Mineral wool

The most popular and widespread material. It was used even under the Soviet Union, however, it was known as "glass wool". The current name accurately determines the composition of the insulation. Fibers are now made not only from glass, but also from slag and some rocks, such as basalt, that is, only non-combustible substances are used.

Millions of mineral fibers stick together and form insulation, which, depending on the purpose, is produced in rolls, plates and cylinders, which allows you to economically work with surfaces of various configurations. Due to the low specific gravity (from 20 kg / m3), the ceiling is insulated with mineral wool, without the risk of overloading the wooden floors. Therefore, if necessary, it is used even in dilapidated buildings.

These are not all the advantages, mineral wool has a number of other advantages:

1. Low thermal conductivity.
2. Resistance to chemical compounds.
3. Due to the porous structure, it provides air movement, which prevents the formation of condensate.
4. The steam does not settle on the cotton, which means it does not get wet.
5. The insulation does not burn, does not form smoke when heated, does not emit harmful substances.
6. Excellent soundproofing, which is important if there are neighbors from above.
7. Long service life.

True, the advantages of the material do not seem significant against the background of the following shortcomings.

1. Mineral wool is afraid of moisture, due to the ingress of large masses of water on it, thermal insulation properties are lost. Therefore, additional ones are needed.
2. Dusty. Fine fibers can constantly enter the room through the smallest cracks and holes.
3. It is unsubstantiated that the resin used to glue the fibers emits harmful compounds.

Nevertheless, mineral wool remains the most popular heat insulator, so ceiling insulation will be considered using its example.

Lightweight, efficient, easy to install material - an alternative option when it is not possible to use mineral wool. Insulation is produced in sheets 1 × 1 m in size, 20-100 mm thick. This is practical, since it is possible to insulate the ceiling in the house at the lowest cost.

Styrofoam is often used indoors, despite a number of disadvantages:

1. Efficiency in work is possible only if there is no gap between the ceiling and the insulation, which excludes air circulation, which means it leads to condensation.
2. Styrofoam is destroyed by rodents and microorganisms.
3. Flammable, emits acrid smoke.
4. Evaporates formaldehyde at room temperature.

Therefore, it is better to mount the foam from the side of the attic space.

Foamed polyethylene

Insulation is made by introducing a gas hydrocarbon mixture into a liquid material, followed by cooling. As a result, a mass of closed, air-filled bubbles is formed, which serve as a heat-insulating base.

Polyethylene foam has a number of undoubted advantages:

• efficiency;
• environmental friendliness;
• long service life without loss of quality;
• resistant to fungus and rodents;
• hygroscopic;
• not complicated installation.

The main disadvantage is the flammability of polyethylene foam, and it ignites at a relatively low temperature - 100 C. Combustion is accompanied by the release of acrid smoke. In addition, polyethylene foam is not used in all rooms, since it is possible to insulate the ceiling from the inside only if it is quite high. The reason is that for the effective operation of the insulation, it is necessary to provide, on both sides of it, an air gap of 2–3 cm. This, given the thickness of the insulation and the crate, will significantly “lower” the room. However, in the case when it is assumed, insulation with polyethylene foam is quite possible. A bonus to this will be excellent sound insulation, especially if the floors are made of concrete.

The material with properties and structure resembles foam plastic, only with a denser structure, since the manufacturing technology is associated with high pressure. Thanks to this, the insulation turned out to be so durable that it is usually used as the basis for a warm floor. But, sometimes it is also used as a ceiling insulation for a private house. After installation, the plaster is applied directly to the expanded polystyrene, which is one of the main advantages.

True, the latter is true only for the insulation of unheated premises. The fact is that polystyrene foam should not be in direct contact with warm air, otherwise, on its cold side, condensation will inevitably form. This option is unacceptable, since the insulation is afraid of dampness and collapses from it. Therefore, it is necessary to close it with a vapor barrier, and from above - with a decorative ceiling. Thus, the main advantage of expanded polystyrene is nullified.

There is another plus that can be decisive when choosing a material for the internal insulation of a private house - environmental friendliness. It is believed that extruded polystyrene foam, at room temperature, is absolutely safe, unlike polystyrene.

Not without drawbacks:

• combustibility;
• afraid of direct sunlight;
• is destroyed by rodents and insects, despite the fact that manufacturers claim the opposite;
• at temperatures above 75 degrees, it emits substances harmful to humans, therefore it is not used for warming baths.

That's all about the qualities of materials, now about how to insulate the ceiling yourself.

Sequence of work

As already noted, the installation technology will be considered using mineral wool as an example. However, the process, with minor adjustments, is suitable for other thermal insulation materials. The difference is only in some details, the main stages of work remain unchanged.

Frame installation

This is the main element of the whole structure, which determines its durability and aesthetics. You can create a crate from wooden bars or a metal profile. In this case, everything depends on decorative ceiling. Actually, it is for him that the crate is made. If it is supposed to install drywall as a “finish ceiling”, then it is definitely necessary to use a profile. The fact is that the tree is strongly deformed when it dries, and there is no such fastener that could resist this. There is a cracking of the seams between the sheets, "slippage" of the caps of the screws through them.

Lining, MDF and OSB, in this regard, are more unpretentious and are attached directly to a wooden crate, which is pre-treated with an antiseptic.

In any case, regardless of the material chosen, the work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. The surface of the ceiling is cleaned of crumbling plaster in compliance with safety regulations, chandeliers and lamps are dismantled.
2. At the same distance from each other, equal to the width of the insulation, wooden bars or a profile are attached to the ceiling. Here you need to take into account several nuances. Rails can be attached directly to the ceiling, which greatly facilitates the work. At the same time, their thickness should be the same as that of the insulation layer. To install the profiles, special suspensions are required, which are fixed on the ceiling, and the profile is already screwed to them.
3. Hanging parts will often have to be installed, since drywall sheets have a large mass. If the plane is made of concrete, special dowels must be used. A gap must be left between the profile and the ceiling in order to subsequently slip the insulation there. Otherwise, in this place, "poles of cold" will turn out.

When all profiles are installed, the crate can be considered complete.

Insulation installation

First, the inner layer of vapor barrier is laid. You can fix it on the ceiling in any convenient way, for example, with glue or staples. Insulation is placed between the profiles. If it's about mineral wool, then you should take care of the means of protecting the eyes and respiratory organs. Another layer of vapor barrier is laid on top. Now you can move on to finishing.

Ceiling insulation can save up to 10% of heating bills. It is only necessary to choose the right material. The main characteristics of each of them are now known. The better to insulate the ceiling, the owner of the house must decide, based on the analysis and in accordance with his capabilities.

Video

Here's a themed video: