How to insulate the walls of a house from profiled timber. Insulation of a wooden house from profiled timber for a long stay

How to insulate a wooden house from the inside?

Timber-framed houses have been gaining momentum lately. They are chosen not only for their low cost and environmental friendliness, but also for the fact that they can be built in a short time and at any time. convenient time(both winter and summer).

However, such buildings need additional thermal insulation, especially in our country, where the climate in winter is very severe in places.

Many, faced with such a problem, wondered if it was possible to insulate a house from a bar from the inside and how to do it correctly?

Before answering this question, it is necessary to understand the reasons for the penetration of cold air into the room. There may be several of them:

1. Incorrect installation and selection of the thickness of the insulation contribute to the penetration of cold air into the room.
2. Between the timber there are holes and cracks that formed during shrinkage or improper installation.

Stages of warming a house from a bar inside

The internal insulation of a house made of timber includes several stages:

1. Room preparation.
2. Alignment of all irregularities and holes.
3. Vapor barrier.
4. Frame.
5. Insulation of a house from a bar from the inside with the help of materials.
6. Ventilation.
7. Decorating the rooms from the inside.

Preparing the room for insulation

Before you start insulating a house from a bar inside, you need to perform a number of preparatory work:

• cleaning all surfaces from dust and dirt (wallpaper, if any, should be removed);
• treat the surface with a special antiseptic solution (this must be done so that insects and mold do not appear);
• it is necessary to treat the surface with a solution that protects the tree from burning;
• all wiring that runs along the wall should be separated from the surface.

Wall processing

Crack sealing

At this stage, it is necessary to close all existing gaps, even the smallest ones, with jute fiber. The void is filled using a chisel. For large holes, tape tow is used.

On a note: If the house was just built, and no one lives in it, then it is necessary to close all the holes again in a year. If they live in the building, then this procedure can be carried out in a couple of years, since shrinkage is slower than in a non-residential building.

vapor barrier

The accumulation of moisture between the timber can lead to rotting of the wood. To avoid this, they create a barrier - a vapor barrier and waterproofing film, which is placed on the bar with a rough side. This must be done before you begin to insulate inside walls.

Thanks to the properly positioned vapor barrier / waterproofing film, moisture does not get on the wood.

Frame / crate

Racks are made in advance so that the corners get the desired shape. The length of the beam will be equal to the height of the room (section 5 × 10 cm).

Cut off another rail with the same length, but with a different section (5 × 5 cm). It is attached with self-tapping screws to the edge of the timber. The result is a design that resembles the letter "G".

It is worth noting that there should be exactly as many such racks as there are corners in the room. To keep the racks in the right position, use the level. Then, observing the distance between the rails of half a meter, install bars with a cross section of 5 × 5 cm vertically.

Insulation laying

Installation of insulation material

Mineral wool is used for thermal insulation. It is worth noting that the width of the insulation by a couple of centimeters should be greater than the gap between the bars.

With the help of anchors, during the laying process, the insulation is fixed to the wall.

Advice: For additional thermal insulation (that is, its improvement) put another layer of film.

Finishing work

A stapler is used to attach polyethylene to the bar. As soon as the film is fixed, they proceed to the decoration of the room.

Ventilation system

After thermal insulation, the humidity in the house will increase, so you should create a ventilation system: with its help, the microclimate will improve.

For this purpose, an attic is perfect, where you can place the entire ventilation system. In order for the air to begin to circulate, you can use a fan with a low power level.

In winter, it is necessary to turn on the fan daily for half an hour.

Insulation of the floor in a house from a bar from the inside

To reduce heat loss in wooden house floors need to be insulated. For this, mineral wool / polystyrene is used. If the floor is already covered, then it must be dismantled.

Important detail: After dismantling the floor, a rough coating is made from the base of the structure, on which polyethylene is placed. The gaps between the lags are sealed with insulating material.

If you are going to insulate with foam, then you first need to fill the gravel into the floor structure by forty centimeters, and then level it.

It will take about two weeks for the concrete to dry completely. After two weeks, a film is laid on the rough coating, and then foam.

ceilings

Foam plastic / mineral wool / expanded clay is used to insulate the ceiling.

However, despite the wide choice of thermal insulation material, most owners use sawdust. Such a heater is good because it has high environmental friendliness and low cost.

But before insulating the ceiling with it, it must be treated with an antiseptic solution. This way you can prevent the appearance of fungus. Also, this material is treated with antipyrine so that in case of fire, it does not catch fire.

To avoid the appearance of rodents, the sawdust should be dried well and lime should be added to them. This insulation is tightly laid in voids.

What should be considered when choosing a heater?

Range of insulation materials

To choose a heater that is as safe as possible for health, you need to pay attention to the combination of material with wood. The insulation must not only be well ventilated, but it must also be in harmony with the properties and vapor permeability of wood.

Attention: Many prefer foam. But, it is worth noting that such material does not pass moisture well, therefore, it is not worth using it for internal as well as external thermal insulation of the room (condensate will drip onto the tree, which will lead to rotting of the timber).

Despite the fact that basalt and fiberglass are non-natural materials, they have excellent vapor-permeable properties. If there is a ventilation system, moisture will not accumulate.

But it should be noted that such materials emit harmful substances which enter the room during ventilation. As a result, a person breathes them. Of course, if you install a film, then no harmful particles will enter the room, but the beneficial microclimate of the tree will also disappear.

As for flax fiber and fiberboard, they are best combined with the properties of wood.

Video about the internal insulation of a log house

The log house has replaced the traditional log buildings. A special atmosphere of comfort always reigns in it, and the natural wood used provides a favorable microclimate. However, in order for the house to become truly comfortable and warm, it is important to take care of the insulation. Thermal insulation material in such buildings fills the intervention space.

Types of building material

The beam has several varieties.

• The most accessible regular or whole(unprofiled). It is a log sawn from all sides, due to which it has a square section measuring 150-220 mm. Such material is more prone to shrinkage, adverse effects of the environment than others. Over time, it cracks, due to discrepancies in the geometry and dimensions of individual products, gaps form in the structure. It is better to use such a beam if further sheathing is planned from the inside and outside.
• profiled the beam has a more precise geometry, it is equipped with spikes and grooves. Due to this, the appearance of cracks during the installation process is minimized. Outwardly, it is more attractive - there are no knots, blackouts, cracks on the surface. Since profiled timber, like regular timber, is cut from a single log, it also shrinks. However, it is less prone to deformation than the non-profiled counterpart.

• The least shrinkage gives the house glued timber. These are boards of cedar, pine or larch fixed together, which are thoroughly dried beforehand. It is drying that ensures the absence of warpage. Such material does not need additional processing, it has a convenient fastening system, and is distinguished by precise geometry. Compared to analogues, it has the highest cost, but cannot be considered completely environmentally friendly due to the presence of glue in the composition.

Features of the procedure

The use of interventional insulation allows you to solve the following tasks:

• preservation and improvement of the thermal insulation qualities of the massif;
• increase the life of the building;
• preventing the ingress of moisture from the outside, the appearance of mold and fungus;
• ensuring vapor permeability.

Proper insulation log house will significantly increase its thermal efficiency, eliminate cold bridges that invariably arise between the elements of the timber.

The walls will become windproof even for a squally wind. Internal insulation will maintain an optimal balance of temperature and humidity. Sensitive to changes in these indicators, wood will not be deformed due to a significant temperature difference between inside and outside the room.

What is the best way to insulate?

In ancient times, waste from household fabrics was used to insulate a log house. They were of plant origin, and therefore differed in safety and vapor permeability. This contributed to maintaining the optimum temperature and natural humidity in the house. Today, the criteria for a quality material are low thermal conductivity, vapor permeability and environmental friendliness.

We must not forget that wood is subject to fluctuations every year. linear size timber (a newly built house shrinks). Therefore, it is necessary to choose an elastic, elastic material that will be able to contract and expand without losing its technical properties. Traditional interventional heaters are flax (the rough parts of the plant that remain after the preparation of raw materials for linen fabric), jute, tow and felt (made from sheep's wool). Let's take a closer look at their modern modifications.

Lnovatin

Flax fiber (linen felt) - nonwoven fabric based on flax, obtained by pressing. The release form is strips 8.5-200 mm wide and 5-7 mm thick, rolled into a roll. Standard roll length is 2000 mm. The advantage of using flax fiber for timber is its environmental friendliness. It does not cause allergies, it is made from purified flax (not from industrial waste).

Linen felt has good adhesion and provides uniform insulation of the entire surface of the interventional gap. In addition, it has soundproofing abilities.

The use of flax fiber allows you to maintain an optimal microclimate in the room. The material takes away excess moisture, with an excessive decrease in air humidity, it gives it away.

It is worth noting the ease of installation of flax fiber.

Give the building an attractive finish appearance allows a cord of jute, fixed on top of the insulation. However, if the material is fixed under drywall, the use of a cord can be abandoned. Like any material, linen felt has disadvantages: insects can settle in the thickness of flax fiber, mice take it apart.

Jute

This material is a modern interventional insulation, the basis of which is a processed annual tropical plant of the linden family. Its unique resins are a powerful antiseptic. They protect not only the insulation itself from decay, but also wooden surfaces walls. In addition, the presence of resins makes the material unattractive to rodents.

Jute for timber can be purchased in the form of rolls or ropes. The first varieties have a thickness of 15 mm, their width varies between 100-200 mm, the length is 2000 mm. Ropes are often used as decorative element, since jute has an attractive golden hue that blends harmoniously with natural wood. The high content of resins has a downside.

The material quickly sticks together and dries. This leads to a decrease in its volume and the appearance of cracks in the wall. This can be avoided by mixing jute with flax fiber. The result is linen jute (the percentage of flax and jute is 50 x 50%) and jute felt (the ratio of flax and jute is 10 x 90%).

Tow

Felt

The basis of the material is natural sheep wool, which provides high sound and heat insulation characteristics of the material. To ensure the biostability of raw materials, they are treated with special impregnations. The advantages of the material are its elasticity and elasticity. Thanks to this, it fills the entire space without leaving cold bridges.

When a house shrinks or wood expands, under the influence of high humidity, the felt expands or contracts. This ensures the invariance of its thermal insulation qualities. It does not absorb moisture, does not shrink during operation, is a vapor-permeable material. The only drawback is the high cost. It is produced in rolls, the thickness of which is 12-18 mm, and the width varies from 90 to 200 mm.

artificial

In addition to traditional heaters, artificial materials can be found on sale today. For example, they include thermal insulation material, produced in the form of tapes based on polyester fibers. It has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, vapor permeability, repels moisture. All this ensures the biostability of the product, its ability to maintain a pleasant indoor climate.

Demanded heat-insulating insulation is PSUL(pre-compressed sealing tape) based on polyurethane foam impregnated with acrylic. A feature of the product is the ability to expand after installation, filling the entire interventional space. The durability of PSUL is another advantage. Its service life reaches 20 years.

Widely used latex, silicone, acrylic sealants, with which you can eliminate interventional gaps and get rid of cracks in the wood that occur when the material dries. Sealants fill cracks and free spaces, which prevents the formation of cold bridges. They do not absorb moisture, but at the same time they are vapor permeable. Due to the elasticity of the sealant, it can be used even in newly built houses.

It is easy to use the sealant due to the convenient release form (tubes). Due to the variety of shades, it does not need decoration. The material has good adhesion to wood and other materials. This makes it possible to use it in houses that have wood concrete, foam blocks or other building blocks as a foundation.

Important point- sealants are not suitable as the only insulation for primary caulking. They should be combined with elastic synthetic insulation, and also used to eliminate cracks in the beam itself after shrinkage.

Manufacturers Overview

Polyester-based artificial insulation has become widespread. The Finnish company Politerm is considered the leading manufacturer of such materials. You should trust this product just because wood construction in Finland it is common, and severe winters are in many ways similar to Russian ones. The material is safe for humans. Even after years of use, it does not decompose and does not emit toxins.

Despite the artificial origin, the material is characterized by vapor permeability, fire resistance and chemical inertness.

It has a low thermal conductivity and is characterized by its ability to expand and contract. This prevents the formation of gaps as a result of shrinkage of the house. The kit includes special curly elements designed to connect the nodes of the log house.

The most adapted to the operating conditions in the Russian climate are products from the domestic manufacturer Avaterm. It has the same advantages as the Finnish counterpart. The service life of this insulation is up to 200 years. Products designed with technical features houses from different types of timber (glued, profiled).

When drilling, material particles are not wound around the drill. It easily passes through the insulation, leaving smooth edges at the perforation site.

Among the reputable manufacturers of sealants for interventional insulation are the products of Сonseal, Neomid Warm Seam, Weatherall and Wepost Wood. These materials are characterized by high performance characteristics.

How to do the work yourself?

Immediately after construction, the interventional spaces are insulated from the inside, that is, they carry out the primary caulking. To do this, the rolled insulation is twisted and the space between the logs is filled with a chisel. Those who make repairs with their own hands should know that they first caulk the lower link around the entire perimeter. Only after that you can rise higher, working around the entire perimeter. If you first completely caulk one wall, and then the second, this can lead to warping of the house.

First of all, the interventional space should be cleaned of dust and litter. Next, the heat-insulating material is twisted, applied to the gap and hammered into it with blows of a chisel, mallet. Excess material is cut off.

When using synthetic insulation, it is recommended to apply a layer of sealant over them.

A year later, the biggest shrinkage of the house will occur, after which you can start warming. Before insulating the walls, you need to check the condition of the wood and interventional material. When cracks and cold bridges appear, it is necessary to re-caulk. After that, antiseptic solutions and antipyrines are applied to the walls. In rooms with high humidity air, it is recommended to treat the timber with water-repellent compounds (for example, drying oil).

Further internal insulation involves fastening around the entire perimeter of the vapor barrier material. It is fastened with overlaps of 10 cm and fixed with a stapler. It is necessary to protect the house with a vapor barrier layer so that it breathes, and the wood and insulation are not saturated with moisture vapor.

If you plan to use penofol (insulation based on foamed polyethylene with a foil layer) or mineral wool, a vapor barrier layer is not needed.

Availability and excellent thermal performance make profiled timber one of the favorite materials for builders. Many believe that due to thermal insulation, lumber does not need additional insulation. This opinion is often wrong. Below we will understand in which cases thermal insulation is required at home, and how exactly it should be carried out.

Timber insulation is not always required. A warm climate or temporary residence in the house allows the structure to retain heat without additional costs. The fastening system of the profiled timber has no gaps, and this is a plus, since the inside of the building remains comfortable temperature for living.

This also allows you to save on finishing, since pre-treated lumber does not need additional polishing.

If the construction of the house takes place in a cold climate, or if you plan to stay indoors for a long time, insulation is a must.

Stages of warming a house from profiled timber

All elements of the house need insulation. Therefore, it is worth taking a responsible attitude to each of them. Otherwise, the event will be useless.

Foundation

There are two ways to insulate the foundation:

• internal;
• external.

Internal insulation is highly undesirable and is recommended only if for some reason external insulation impossible.

External insulation has several advantages:

• materials for it are cheaper than for internal insulation;
• allows you to avoid freezing and, as a result, a sharp temperature drop, which lead to the destruction of the structure;
• allows you to save the internal area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe basement.

The most preferred material for insulation of the foundation is polyurethane foam.

It is more expensive than polystyrene, and has the following advantages:

• its installation does not take much time;
• there are no seams and gaps;
• no cold bridges.

For laying such material, special equipment is used. The thickness of the insulation layer should not be less than 5 centimeters.

A little less often they use a heater - extruded polystyrene foam. It has only a couple of advantages:

• low price;
• absolute immunity to moisture.

Floor

The floor, laid out with boards, will sooner or later be covered with gaps and cracks. And this means that the thermal insulation of the room will drop sharply. To prevent this from happening, they also provide floor insulation. Moreover, it is desirable to do this at the stage of building a house in order to avoid problems with laying boards in the future.

On a note!

thermal insulation floor covering implies not only laying insulation, but also hydro and vapor barrier. What materials will be required is best agreed with a specialist, since the choice depends on many factors, such as the material of the boards, ventilation system in the house and so on.

In order to insulate the floor, logs are installed in the foundation. Then shields are nailed to the timber and a hydro- and vapor barrier, a heater and again both insulations are installed.

This method is not the only one, but is more common in its execution.

Walls

There are only three options for wall insulation:

• external;
• internal;
• interventional.

The last option for those who care about the aesthetics of the room.

As a rule, the following materials are used for thermal insulation of walls:

• natural insulation: linen, sheep wool, lnovatin and more. Such materials are suitable for interventional styling;
• foam or any cotton material is ideal for external insulation;
• for the inside - exclusively cotton insulation.

In addition to thermal insulation materials, a vapor barrier will also be required, which will not allow the insulation to absorb moisture.

November 25, 2017

How to choose the right section of the beam. To insulate or not a house from a bar?

Very often, before starting construction, you can hear the question: what section of the profiled timber to choose for the house? Here we can immediately say that it is quite difficult to unambiguously answer this question. For example, if it’s not particularly important for you personally how much to pay for heating, the cross section of the beam can be anything.

In addition, the thickness depends on the type of wood, since larch, spruce, cedar and other species differ significantly in thermal conductivity characteristics.

If you take glued laminated timber, it will be much warmer in structure than solid wood. New construction technologies are also emerging, which also provide their own answers to this question, so here each case needs to be analyzed separately.

What is the section of the beam, and in what buildings is it used?

Ric .1 common cross-sections of profiled timber

The minimum section of profiled timber used in construction is 100x100 mm, 100x150 mm. Material with such parameters is used for the construction of outbuildings various types, not intended for permanent residence, it is also suitable for building a bathhouse, a veranda, a gazebo and a summer house on suburban area.

Ric .2 bath of profiled timber 100x150 mm

A bar with parameters of 150x150 mm is mainly used for the construction of seasonal houses and baths. This is the best option in terms of price and quality. In such a house it will be as comfortable as possible in the summer, and after additional insulation and year-round use.

Ric .3 dacha of profiled timber 150x150 mm

As for winter houses and houses for permanent residence, in this case it is necessary to use a beam with a section from 150x150 mm to 200x200 mm. This is the thickest material, but it also costs a little more than the rest. But with such a bar you can save on insulation.

Ric .4 winter house made of profiled timber 200x150 mm

What timber can be used for a winter house?

There are two main options here, depending on the wishes and financial capabilities of the Customer.

1. If you do not plan to conduct any Finishing work from the outside of the house (siding with siding, a beam simulator, etc.), then it would be best to use a profiled beam with a section of 150x200 mm (or 200x200 mm).

Ric .5 profiled timber wall 200x150 mm

If you are planning any future exterior finish, then it is quite possible to use a profiled beam with a section of 150x150 mm and subsequently compensate for the missing heat with the help of various kinds of heaters.

Ric .6 house made of timber 150x150 mm before and after finishing

To insulate or not a house made of profiled timber?

The answer to this question depends on many factors: the climatic region of residence, the purpose of using the building, the specific section of the timber, as well as other nuances.

If you, for example, put summer house or a bath in a summer cottage and plan only seasonal use (from late spring to early autumn), then you can limit yourself to the minimum thickness of insulation or not use it at all.

But by insulating the house (in this case we are talking about the insulation of the house from the outside), you get a number of undeniable advantages that may compensate for all your costs for warming and finishing the house:

1. significant increase in thermal insulation properties(insulation covers all possible cracks, cracks);
2. protection of wood from the adverse effects of precipitation, temperature fluctuations, condensation(the material does not rot or mold);
3. providing comfort and a favorable microclimate indoors(in the summer the house will be cool, and in the winter it will be warm);
4. prevention of timber freezing and cracking(additional layers of insulation do not allow the timber to freeze completely);
5. increase the life of a house or bath(it is much easier to change the facade decoration than to completely rebuild the house);
6. reduction of heating and space heating costs(Insulated house cools down much more slowly).

Ric .7 diagram of installation of insulation and finishing of a house from a bar

Warming the house from the inside is used quite rarely, as it has a number of disadvantages:

• reduced usable floor space;
• the beam remains unprotected from the adverse effects of precipitation;
• the outer walls of the house remain cold;
• possible formation of condensate at the junction of the wall with insulation.

The advantages of this method include the possibility of warming at any time of the year. In addition, it is not always possible to insulate the walls outside the house.

As for the insulation technique, it will directly depend on each individual construction project, except that special attention should be paid to ventilation in the space between the insulation and the wall (for this, a certain indentation of the insulation from the wall is made). This solution will help to avoid excess moisture on wall structures.

Insulation plays an important role in home insulation. It must be strong, reliable and quality material which does not pass moisture and keeps heat well. It must be resistant to temperature extremes, humidity, fireproof. Also, it is very important that it is environmentally friendly and safe for health.

Ric .8 main types of insulation used for home decoration

If you want to get a house that is perfect in every respect and not worry about whether it will be warm and comfortable for you in it, contact SvoyTeplyDom. Here, highly qualified specialists will help you decide, as well as advise what is best to use for the most comfortable stay.

Timber houses, due to their environmental friendliness, are a popular option for private construction. But although they heat up quickly enough and have good thermal insulation properties, insulating a log house is an urgent need for most households.

Installation of insulation on the walls of a house from a bar Source nd-prime.by

Differences between old and new technologies

Wooden construction in Russia is a centuries-old tradition. For centuries, houses were built exclusively from log houses, from massive round and semicircular logs, the thickness of which was enough for good thermal insulation. Like today, the wood shrank over time, and gaps appeared between the logs. But earlier there were other ideas about the beauty of the facade, so ordinary tree moss was used to seal the cracks. He landed in the cracks between the logs and over time reliably filled the entire space between them.

V modern construction savings issues are foreground and forced to use timber, the thickness of which does not always meet the requirements of the developed standards. With insufficient cross-section, complete freezing occurs in winter, which means that the walls of the house are not able to retain heat. In addition, over time, the tree begins to dry out, which is why heat loss grows even more.

This is what a wall made of timber looks like after the wood has dried. Source bredmozga.ru

Advantages and disadvantages of wall insulation in a timber house

Prudent owners are looking for ways to properly insulate a house from a bar in order to spend less funds for heating. This can be done in two main ways: from the inside and from the outside, and external insulation is preferable for a number of reasons.

Features of insulation from the inside

With internal insulation, the positive effect of saving heat is offset by the disadvantages:

• Part of the usable area is inevitably lost due to the installation of the frame under the insulation.
• The heat-insulating layer hides the "living" wooden walls and the rooms lose their unique charm.
• Due to external winter cooling unprotected wooden wall dew point shifts internal insulation. Condensation occurs, mold appears, and it is difficult to control the condition of the wood.

Video description

What happens to the wall improper insulation from the inside - on the video:

Wall insulation from the outside: advantages and disadvantages of the method

Most often, they resort to it, meaning obvious benefits compared to internal insulation:

• The usable area of ​​the internal space is saved;
• Outside work does not change the daily routine of the family.
• The facade of the house is reliably protected from sudden changes in temperature, which prolongs the life of the building.
• The correct selection of materials does not violate the microclimate of the rooms (the house "breathes").

• You can decorate the facade to your liking or improve the appearance if the wood has darkened over time.
• If the technology is followed, the wood will be additionally protected from damage.
• Easy to control the work of the construction team.

The main disadvantage of external insulation is the need to carry it out in good weather - it makes no sense to do this in cold and damp conditions.

Three main methods of insulation

Any wall insulation involves attaching a layer of insulation to it and structures holding it. For this, several methods have been developed, and each of them has its own advantages and features of execution.

The principle of wall insulation is the creation of an additional protective "pie" Source lestorg32.ru

Hinged ventilated facade

By itself, this technology was developed as a decoration of the facade of the house, but since the installation procedure involves attaching a layer of mineral wool or similar material to the wall, this method can be considered as insulation.

Advantages of using ventilated facades:

• Long service life (up to 50 years), excellent heat and sound insulation.
• Ease of installation.
• Wide choose facing material different colors.
• The dew point moves outward.

Mounting technology:

• The lumber is pre-treated with compounds that prevent rotting and make the tree unattractive to insects.
• Outside, a crate is attached to the house, on which a sheet of hydro and wind protection is stuffed. In the space between the slats of the crate, air circulates freely, due to which condensate or moisture that has appeared in another way will be removed from the insulation.
• The crate is leveled with a plumb line.
• Next, slats are stuffed onto the crate, the distance between which should correspond to the width of the heat insulator. Accordingly, the height of the rails is selected - for middle lane Russia is recommended to use insulation with a thickness of at least 70 mm.

A feature of the ventilated facade is that a gap is left between the insulation and the cladding Source builderclub.com

• Insulation mats are laid between the slats, fixing with dowels.
• Then, bars with a thickness of at least 5 cm are additionally stuffed onto the slats, so that there is a gap between the insulation and the cladding.
• Facing (siding) is mounted.

Insulation under siding.

There are practically no fundamental differences from the previous technology - insulation is also used here and is also used outside decorative coating. But if the very name of the ventilated facade indicates the place of its use, then the whole house is covered with siding in any case.

The nuances of installation, taking into account the selected material:

• The distance between the slats is set equal to the width of the mat if foam or extruded polystyrene foam is selected.
• The distance between the slats is set 10–15 mm less than the width of the mat if mineral wool is used. This must be taken into account when calculating the amount of mineral wool.
• According to the technology, cotton wool slabs are mounted at a distance; polymer plates are placed in cells, the joints are treated with mounting foam.
• Using mineral wool a waterproofing layer (diffuse membrane) is additionally mounted on top. It is not needed when using fiberglass or polystyrene.

Sheathing a log house with siding Source stroyfora.ru

Polyurethane foam spraying method

The principle of this technology is clear to anyone who has seen how they work with mounting foam. The difference here is that the amount of material needed to create a thermal insulation pad is much larger, so a spray gun using compressed air from a compressor is used to process polyurethane foam. Technology advantages:

• Easy to use and high speed of application of the heat-insulating mixture on large surfaces.
• Excellent adhesion (adhesion) with most building materials, long-term preservation of properties.
• Environmentally friendly, fire resistant and anti-rot of the treated surface.

Insulation spraying can be carried out on any prepared surface Source keeninsulation.com

Types of heaters

The choice of insulation for outdoor work is quite wide and each of them has distinctive features to consider when choosing:

Mineral wool

It is produced in three varieties - stone (basalt), glass and slag. All have similar properties: fire-resistant, non-combustible, have chemical and biological resistance. Another advantage of the material is vapor permeability, environmental friendliness and high sound insulation.

By cons - cotton wool attracts rodents and does not dry out completely when wet.

It all depends on the skills of the builders, but usually it is easier to insulate a house from the outside with mineral wool using mats than rolls - the latter are not always convenient to deploy on vertical walls.

Laying mineral wool slabs in the crate Source remontik.org

Styrene boards (polystyrene, polyurethane foam)

Styrofoam - the most cheap option, light and porous, with low hygroscopicity and excellent thermal insulation. The main disadvantages are combustibility (releases toxins during combustion), fragility and instability when exposed to ultraviolet radiation.

Video description

In this video, we will dwell on the insulation of the house with foam plastic. How safe is styrofoam?:

Extruded polystyrene foam

It has a special porous structure, tolerates low temperatures well and is unsuitable for microorganisms. The material is durable, easy to install (plates), does not absorb water. Disadvantages: highly flammable and at the same time releases harmful toxins.

Styrofoam and polystyrene are outwardly similar Source lineyka.net

Environmentally sprayable styrenes (ecowool and polyurethane foam)

Such heaters are expensive due to the method of application; for processing large surfaces requires special installation and experience in work. For small areas of complex shape (crevices near pipes, windows, between plates), polyurethane heaters in cylinders are offered.

"Warm" plaster

A mixture of light granules of complex composition (glass, cement and hydrophobic additives), which does not ignite, is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation, well protects the facade from moisture and is easily repaired.

Subtleties of wall insulation from timber

Insulation of a log house outside under the siding cannot be started whenever you want - before that, the following conditions must be met:

• Work on the installation of insulation can begin only after the complete shrinkage of the log house - often this period can be one and a half to two years.
• It is forbidden to carry out work if the facade has not been treated with an antiseptic. Ignoring this rule will lead to the appearance of fungus and rot.
• Before insulating a house from a bar from the outside, it is necessary to prepare the facade: close up not only wide cracks, but also small cracks. To do this, you can use putty, mounting foam or similar materials.
• Good thermal insulation log house requires careful selection of material and calculation of its quantity. It should be taken into account how the heat-insulating material will be combined with the wood of the beam itself.
• To choose a suitable insulation, it is necessary to take into account the size of the building, the quality of the log house and the seams.

Some heaters are installed without crates. Source obustroen.ru

Tools and materials for building thermal insulation

To insulate a house without being distracted by the search for tools and materials, builders need to prepare the following:

• bubble or laser building level, you can still use a plumb line;
• tape measure, square or ruler made of metal;
• hammer, construction knife or hacksaw, screwdriver;
• facade dowels, adhesive tape, chalk, polyurethane foam, antiseptic;
• dry slats, insulation;
• vapor and waterproofing film;
• finishing material.
• wood preservative sprayer

Treatment of a wooden wall with an antiseptic Source mybesedka.ru

On our website you can find a list of companies, home insulation services, among the houses presented at the exhibition Low-rise Country.

The general course of the installation of thermal insulation

All steps for warming a house from a bar by any of the methods described are always schematically the same and are performed in the following sequence:

• for ventilation of the first layer of insulation, a crate of wooden planks is mounted on the wall;
• a frame is stuffed onto the crate for fixing the insulating material
• installation of a heater;
• installation of additional battens and frame (if double insulation is used);
• laying an additional layer of heat insulator;
• fastening of a diffusion membrane, which will provide hydro and wind protection.
• installation facade decoration(lining, siding) with an air gap.

Of course, in the end, the insulation will hide the beauty of the natural material, but finishing the house with a block house can be a way out.

In general, the insulation of a house made of timber according to the rules will make it possible to save on heating in the future. Despite the seeming simplicity of the whole process, there is enough a large number of pitfalls that will definitely come out during installation. As a result, if there is no proper qualification, then it is better to order the work to professionals, because it is much more pleasant to control the construction site than to climb walls on your own.