How to cut tiles at home. How to cut tiles at home

  • 20.06.2020

When working with tiles, the question arises: what is the best way to cut ceramic tiles? The choice of tool is determined by the scope of work and the properties of the tile itself. There are several ways to cut ceramic tiles.

How to cut ceramic tiles

In any case, special tools will be needed for the work. The simplest of them is a glass cutter, a manual tile cutter has a higher productivity, for professionals it is recommended to opt for electric tile cutters. When gaining a certain skill, the tile can be cut with a grinder, and for manufacturing art products use a diamond string.

glass cutter

This is the most simple and inexpensive device for cutting ceramic tiles. It has a different design:

  • cutting element - a wheel of small diameter;
  • stylus with diamond tip;
  • roller glass cutter with oil reservoir in the handle. The lubricant flows down the narrow groove and facilitates the incision.

The cutting elements of the glass cutter can be replaced as the edge is ground down. How to cut ceramic tiles with a glass cutter? On the front side, a cut line is drawn with a pencil or marker. Keeping the ruler on the line, hold the glass cutter in the direction from the far edge of the tile towards you. The goal is to draw a uniform recess that reduces the strength of the tile web.

Important ! Spend on ceramic tiles once! Otherwise, the incision will be uneven and the tile will break unevenly.

Then they put the tile on the edge of the table or another flat surface. The cut line should line up with the edge. Holding the edge of the tile on the table with one hand, the other gently presses on the edge, which is on weight. The tile should break along the notch. Its edges are polished with a file for ceramic products.

With it, cut off durable floor tiles and porcelain tiles up to 15 mm thick. By design, it is a base, carriage skids with a cutting wheel are fixed on it. It is somewhat larger in diameter than in a glass cutter, which makes it possible to achieve a greater depth of cut. The minimum size of the wheel is 1.5 cm. It is also removable and can be replaced after a cycle of work.

Important ! When choosing a model, pay attention to the sliding mechanism of the carriage. It is better if it is made on bearings or self-lubricating o-rings.

On the basis of the manual tile cutter there is a strip of solid material, with the help of which, after the incision, the tile sheet is broken. There is a T-shaped part in front of the roller on the carriage, which exerts pressure on the two halves of the tile.

The tile is placed on the base of the tool, having previously marked the break line, tightly clamped. The clamping corners must be metal in order to cut floor tiles; enough plastic for the wall. They pull the handle of the carriage towards themselves, making an incision on the front surface of the tile.

The incision is made once. After the end of the incision, press the handle and the tile breaks. The edges will also have to be processed if they fall on the corner. If grout is applied, it will hide all defects.

Cutting ceramic tiles with an electric tile cutter

This tool belongs to the professional category and is quite expensive. With its help, a significant amount of work is easily performed, it cuts any tile quickly, accurately and beautifully. Allows you to make a cut with a width of less than 5 mm, make saw cuts at an angle of 45 degrees, recesses and holes. Used for curly cutting. The cut has smooth and slightly rounded edges. In some models, the edge of the disc is immersed in water, in others, the surface at the cutting point is only wetted. During operation, all the dust settles in the cooling tank with water.

It is largely similar in design to circular saw. It consists of a platform, a cutting disc fixed on it and an electric motor.

How to cut ceramic tiles with an electric tile cutter.

  • Water is poured into the container so as to cover the edge of the cutting wheel by 2-3 cm.
  • Tile cutter included.
  • The ceramic tile is pressed against the machine and slowly moved under the disk, focusing on the marked line.
  • The blade is moved under the cutting element with a force depending on the strength of the tile. It is not recommended to apply excessive pressure on the knife, as this may cause the tile cutter to stop.
  • To cut a corner, the tile is gently lifted, unfolded and repeated.

Attention ! When working on an electric tile cutter, you must use safety glasses, gloves and follow all safety rules for handling cutting edges.

It is necessary to monitor the condition of the cutting edge of the disc, replace it in time. Usually diamond wheels are used. Also regularly, as it gets dirty, change the water in the bath.

How to cut ceramic tiles with a grinder

Use new wheels for dry cutting, diamond-coated or for concrete work. Bulgarian is better to use with adjustable speed. At a rotation speed above 3.5 thousand rpm, the tile cracks, and the dust content increases significantly.

Warning ! This is a very dusty and dirty cutting process, so don't do it in a clean room.

Each "tiler" has a whole arsenal of tools and devices with which he can trim and fit tiles. Home master there is no point in buying expensive professional equipment - you can use what is at hand. And the fans good tool can rent it.

How to cut tiles

According to the type of “drive”, all tools capable of cutting tiles can be divided into two categories: mechanical and electrical. And it just so happened that mechanical tool does not actually cut, but only “scratches” the surface, leaving an incision along which the tile is split. An electric tool cuts it completely. Although there are ways to fit the tile when it is slightly “cut” and then broken or broken into pieces.

glass cutters

Now, in the age of double-glazed windows, this hand tool has almost lost its original purpose - in everyday life it is more often used to fit tiles than when working with glass.

In total, there are four types of glass cutters:

  1. Victorious. This is the simplest cutter with a fixed cutter. It is inexpensive, but this is its only advantage. To literally scratch the surface, you need to make a significant effort, which can lead to the formation of chips along the edges of the tile.
  2. Roller. An improved version of the previous sample, when the carbide cutter is made in the form of a "wheel" with a cutting v-shaped edge. There are even models with a block of three or six rollers that can be reinstalled in the working position. The rotating cutter provides a relatively “soft” stroke of the glass cutter, and the groove is of better quality. The disadvantage is a low resource. Due to the small diameter of the roller and the “shallow” groove, there are still restrictions on the thickness of the material, which is sometimes specified by the manufacturer. But it extends to glass, and if you act competently and carefully, then you can work with it normally even with thick ceramic floor tiles.
  3. Oil. The next step in the "evolution" of the roller glass cutter. In these models, oil is supplied to the cutting edge in microdoses, which is filled into a hollow handle. In a sense, this is an imitation of the mode of operation industrial equipment at machining metals and stone. Lubrication reduces the "resistance" of the material, provides the cutter with easy movement and increases its service life.
  4. Diamond. The most expensive type of glass cutter, which is classified as a "classic" professional tool. And no matter what new alloys are invented, diamond will remain the hardest mineral in nature, the resource of which is practically inexhaustible when cutting glass or ceramics. But the most important quality- the cut and break line is very “clean”, without visible chips.

Tile cutters

  1. Tile cutters. The design is a combination of tongs and a roller glass cutter. On the outer side of one of the grippers, a movable cutter wheel is fixed, on inside the other - clamping sponges. First, a groove is cut. Then the tile is laid in tongs so that the sponge is on top, and the cut line passes through its center along the line of the handles. Gently squeeze, breaking the tile on the lower grip.
  2. Mechanical tile cutter. The principle of operation and the sequence of work are somewhat similar to the previous tool, but at a “higher” level. The working bodies are the same - a cutting roller, a clamping sponge and an emphasis (thorn), on which the tile is broken. All the attributes of a small machine are present here - a platform, a bed, guides, a tile stop, a handle with a cutter (it's also a lever with a sponge), which moves along the guides. There are more complex models for professionals that are equipped with tile grips, movable rulers, and limiters.
  3. Electric tile cutter. This is a specialized circular electric saw, which is oriented to work with tiles and stone. Unlike mechanical tile cutters, the disc does not "scratch" the tile, but cuts it completely. There are portable manual models and full-fledged machines with a platform, water-cooled tiles and other options.

Tile cutting tool

Continuing the topic of completely cutting a tile, the list can be supplemented with the following tools:

  1. Hacksaws. This is a well-known hand tool with an interchangeable blade attachment. Some types of ceramics can even be cut with a metal blade, but there are special "strings" with diamond or carbide coating, which cut any tile (even porcelain stoneware).
  2. Jigsaws. They also produce interchangeable blades for diamond-coated ceramics.
  3. angle grinder Angle grinders, or grinders - another type of electric hand tool, which, unlike electric tile cutters, almost every home craftsman has.

If we do not talk about the features of the drive, then there is no fundamental difference between an electric tile cutter and an angle grinder.

How to cut tiles with a glass cutter

The algorithm of work is simple:

  1. The tile is placed on a solid and even base. And so that the tiles do not move during work, the worktop can be covered with a piece of “non-slippery” fabric - the same coating for professional tables for cutting glass.
  2. On the front side, mark the cut line.
  3. Apply a ruler so that the cutting edge is on the line. The thickness of the ruler should ensure a snug fit of the glass cutter head. Professionals use rulers and corners with a thickness of at least 4 mm.
  4. With one movement "toward yourself" they cut a groove. At the beginning and at the end of the line, do not press hard on the glass cutter so as not to chip off the edge.

    The cut line should be one. If for any reason the glass cutter “broke off” from the surface, then it is necessary to step back from this place 2-3 mm further along the line and continue the incision.

  5. Then the tile is moved to the edge of the worktop so that the part to be cut "hangs" along the cut line. And with a little effort, they break off the unnecessary edge. Depending on the hardness and thickness of the tile, the minimum width of the strip that can be broken off is 1-1.5 cm. If it is smaller, then it is better to break it off in parts using tongs or pliers.
  6. The end of the "working" part of the tile is moonlighted with a file, whetstone or emery.

In addition to the glass cutter, you can cut tiles in the same way with a drill for metal or concrete (with a victorious tip), and sometimes just with a good tool steel knife.

But on the condition that it is ordinary ceramics.

Tile cutter

How to work with a tile cutter-tongs is clear from its description - step by step actions the same as when working with a roller glass cutter. Except for the part where the tile is broken along the cut line.

It is even easier to use a mechanical tile cutter with a bed:

  1. Carry out the marking of the line.
  2. Lay the tile in the tile cutter, combining the line on the tile and the edge on the platform.
  3. Pull the handle towards you so that the cutter is at the beginning of the markup.
  4. Moving away from you, pressing the cutter against the tile, cut a groove.
  5. At the end, pressing with a handle like a lever, they break the tile along the cutting line on the edge with a sponge.

How to do this you can see on the video

How to cut a tile with a grinder without chipping

Another common way to cut tiles is a grinder. But it is used in cases where it is impossible to use a tile cutter. For example, you need to make a curly cut or cut a large-format tile in the form of a parquet board. Disadvantages - noise, a large amount of dust and a relatively low pace. Yes, and the tool itself requires careful handling, compliance with safety regulations, the use of personal protective equipment.

The most important drawback is chips on the front surface along the edge of the cut, the dimensions of which depend on the type of disc.

Segmented discs for stone and ceramics cut quickly, but the edge of the tile is quite uneven - with large chips. In most cases, this edge is covered with a plinth or "leaves" in the corner under another tile. For fine work, solid diamond-coated discs are used. But even they leave small gaps - this is general disadvantage all electric "dry cutters". There are two ways to minimize the magnitude of these defects.

In the first method, the disk is not placed exactly perpendicular to the surface, but with a slight slope. The acute angle should be relative to the surface of the cut off "non-working" edge. With this position of the disk, the tile will chip off where it is slightly pressed against the edge, and the opposite edge will remain clean. You can see how this happens in the video below.

The second method consists of two stages. First, a line is cut with a tile scriber, a victorious or diamond glass cutter. And then, along the border of this line, from the “outer” (cut off) side, an incision is made with a disk for ceramics. Thus, the chips on the main part of the tile will be limited by the line from the scriber (glass cutter). This is clearly shown in the following video (starting from 4 minutes)

A good modern tool is an important, but not the main condition for high-quality work with tiles. A real master can do with a simple glass cutter. And even a non-professional is able to cleanly cut and precisely fit the tile if he has a good eye, a steady hand and a responsible approach to work.

The type of cutting "on a flat" is most often in demand in the process of facing walls or floors. On a flat one - it means that from a whole ceramic tile, it is necessary to cut off an even strip. Since almost all ceramic tiles have a smooth glazed surface and the thickness of the tile itself is usually 5-7 mm, a tile cutter is used for cutting.

The tile cutter is a portable flat platform with two guides placed above it. A carriage moves along the guides, in the lower part of which there is a cutting stone - a diamond or a victorious core. In the upper part of the carriage there is a lever for its movement along the guides. On the other side of the tile cutter platform is another lever that drives the presser feet. Sometimes there are models of tile cutters, in which both the cutter and the presser feet are placed on the movable carriage.

The principle of working with a tile cutter:

  • With the help of a pencil and a square, the future cut is marked on the surface of the tile;
  • Using the levers, raise the carriage with the cutter and the presser feet in the tile cutter;
  • The tile is placed strictly under the guides, and the cutter of the movable carriage is installed on the marking line. The tile itself is fixed with additional sponges;
  • Using the lever, the cutter is moved 1-2 times with a slight pressure along the marked line on the ceramic tile, after which the cutter of the carriage rises, and one sharp pressure is made on the lever with the clamping jaws. Pressure is applied to the tile, as a result of which it splits evenly strictly along the scratched line with the cutter.

Cutting tiles with a tile cutter

Self-cutting porcelain stoneware and embossed ceramic tiles

It must be said right away that due to the hardness of porcelain stoneware and its embossed surface, it will not work to use a tile cutter for cutting. You can, of course, try, but the result will be porcelain stoneware smashed to smithereens. For cutting "in a straight line" or figured cutting of porcelain stoneware and embossed ceramic tiles, angle grinders (grinders) with a diamond pobedit disk are used.

The principle of cutting a porcelain stoneware grinder:

1. Using a square and a simple pencil, markings are made on the front surface of porcelain stoneware.

Attention! Marking and cutting on relief tiles and porcelain stoneware are always performed on the front side of the material. Otherwise, if you cut from the back side, unwanted chips may appear on the front side.


2. Having laid the porcelain stoneware on a flat and stable surface, the angle grinders are initially rotated by a rotating diamond disc with light pressure once along the drawn line.

3. Having completed the first surface cut, a diamond disc is used at the beginning and at the end of the line to cut through the entire thickness of porcelain stoneware. These cuts along the length are 10-20 mm. They are needed so that the porcelain stoneware does not burst in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe corners.

4. Along the previously made longitudinal cut, they pass with a rotating diamond disk angle grinder 3-4 times until the porcelain stoneware is completely cut.

It must be said that an angle grinder with a diamond blade is also used for cutting smooth ceramic tiles, for example, when it is necessary to perform figured cutting. Depending on the previously developed design project, it may be necessary to cut ceramic tiles along a curve, for example, the cutting line is needed not even, but radial. A tile cutter cannot perform such work, since it is designed only for smooth cutting in a straight line.


The use of bolagrka

Making holes in porcelain stoneware and ceramic tiles

  • Holes with a diameter of up to 12 mm in porcelain stoneware are drilled with drills with victorious tips. An electric drill must have a power of more than 800 W, its cartridge must be centered, that is, not “beat” during rotation. If the surface is too smooth and there is a risk that the drill may begin to slide, then 3-4 strips of paper tape are glued one on one to the area where drilling will be performed.
  • Holes with a diameter of 30, 40, 50, 60 mm on porcelain stoneware are made with crowns made of refractory metal with teeth coated with a victorious coating. The initial drilling with such crowns is always carried out at low speeds, and only when the teeth of the crown go deep into porcelain stoneware by at least 3 mm, they move on to faster drilling. The disadvantage of victorious crowns is the ability to perform only standard holes.
  • A hole with a non-standard diameter, for example 55 or 68 mm in porcelain stoneware or tiles, is made with a ballerina. The ballerina is a drill with a pobedit tip, in the middle of which a horizontal holder is fixed by a tripod. At the remote end of the holder, a round or hexagonal metal rod is located vertically, parallel to the drill, with a cutter installed at the end. For example, you need to make a hole with a diameter of 58 mm (hole for sewer pipe from the sink), so 58 divided by 2 gives a radius of 29 mm. Next, using a ruler, set the position of the cutter holder on the ballerina so that there is a gap of 29 mm between the cutter and the center of the drill.

Attention! Drilling holes with a ballerina must be done with the utmost care. The tile should lie horizontally evenly, and the angle of the central drill in the ballerina with respect to the tile should be 90 °. The slightest skew and the ballerina's cutter can break the tile.

  • Holes over 100 mm in diameter (for sewer riser or ventilation duct) in porcelain stoneware, a small angle grinder with a diamond disk is made. Initially, a couple of pieces of paper tape are glued onto porcelain stoneware. After that, sticking a compass into the adhesive tape, draw the correct circle. Next, the protective cover is removed from the small grinder. Holes larger than 100 mm are cut by holding the angle grinder in an absolutely vertical position with respect to the tile, carefully cutting in a circle.

Attention! Given that the protective cover will be temporarily removed from the angle grinder, be sure to use safety glasses, long-sleeved clothing and gloves during operation, as there will be a lot of chips flying.



Drill ballerina

What to do when you need to make a hole in the glass?

The fact that glass or a mirror can be cut with a glass cutter is probably known to many. But often during finishing works in the bathroom there is a need to drill glass or a mirror. If it is not possible to take the mirror to the “glass cutter”, then you can drill a hole yourself in the following sequence:

1. Paper tape is glued to the back and front side of the mirror;

2. A ring with a side height of 2 cm is made from children's plasticine and stuck to the front surface of the mirror;

3. Turpentine is poured into the plasticine ring to the middle;

4. Drilling in turpentine is carried out with pobedit drills with a diameter of up to 6 mm or a cast round copper or brass core. You can also use an old straight soldering iron tip.

Self-cutting artificial marble at home

Cutting along a straight or radial line of marble is done with a small grinder with a diamond blade. However, the work will require the participation of 1 assistant. The bottom line is that when cutting marble, directly at the point of contact of the diamond disk with marble, a constant supply of water at room temperature is necessary. At home, one person directly cuts the marble with angle grinder, and the second person, using plastic bottle with a hole in the lid, continuously pours water in a thin stream onto the area where the rotating disk of the angle grinder is located. Drilling holes in marble is done in the same way, with water supply.
So home cutting facing materials is not particularly difficult if you first familiarize yourself with all the nuances of the workflow. For a more accurate representation of the sequence of actions, in addition to reading the article, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the video materials on this topic.

Laying wall or floor tiles almost never goes without trimming. Parts need to be adjusted to size, cut to the shape of the base, etc. Traditionally, a tile cutter is used for this, but more and more home craftsmen are choosing an angle grinder. We will figure out how to cut with a grinder without chips and whether this is possible in practice.

All about cutting tiles with an angle grinder

Why is a grinder better than a tile cutter

Let's start with the fact that the tile cutter is designed for cutting tiles. For each of its varieties: thick or thin, more or less durable, you can find a suitable tool model. The main advantage of a tile cutter is that it gives an even cut without chips. No work in progress a large number dust, the risk of damaging the plate is minimal. Not so with an angle grinder.

You can cut it, the result can be very good. But for this you will have to try. It is desirable that there is a skill in working with a grinder, otherwise there is a great risk of spoiling the material. The tool will cut any cladding if you choose the right cutting disc. You must be prepared for the fact that during the sawing process it will be very noisy, a lot of dust will rise into the air. The cut line may be chipped.

Nevertheless, home craftsmen choose the grinder. The reason is simple: a tile cutter, especially if it is a quality and well-doing model, is expensive. Buying it for the sake of finishing one room is unprofitable. Cheaper to trim with an angle grinder. You just need to learn how to handle it correctly.

What disc to cut tiles

Equipment for the tool is selected for a specific material. Several types of discs are suitable for cutting.

Stone circles

Cutting element of considerable thickness. Due to this, the cut is wide, the amount of dust during operation increases. The main disadvantage is the rapid wear of the consumable. Moreover, if chips or other defects appear on it during operation, the circle is immediately changed. Otherwise, it may collapse, damaging the workpiece and harming the person working with it. Stone discs are the cheapest.

steel circles

Fine tooling with different processing. For hard materials, diamond-coated steel is chosen. Such a cutting device easily copes with the task, it does not grind for a long time. Three types of steel discs are used for cutting.

  • Dry cutters are segmented. Radial cuts divide the circle into segments, which contributes to the cooling of the steel during operation. Therefore, the duty cycle is one minute, after which cooling at idle is required. Segmented tooling can cut cladding without water supply. Flaw: low quality cut, many chips.
  • Solid circles. They are distinguished by the absence of thermal relief segments, therefore, their cooling requires a constant supply of water to the treated area. In this case, cutting is continuous. Without cooling, you can only work for 10-15 seconds, after which 20-30 seconds of idling. The cut line is of the highest quality, there are no or very few chips.
  • Combined elements. Used for wet and dry cutting. The period of continuous operation is longer than that of a solid disc, but shorter than that of a segmented disc. The quality of the cut is better than that of a segmented cut, but worse than that of a continuous cut. Disadvantage: quickly clogged with dust. It is more difficult to clean them than analogues: for this you need to cut the silicate.

Criterias of choice

When choosing which circle of steel to cut ceramic tiles with a grinder, take into account three important moments.

  1. The thickness of the snap-in is not more than 2 mm, and preferably about 1 mm. This will give a smooth cut without defects.
  2. The speed indicated on the wheel is the same as the speed of the tool.
  3. The height of the diamond coating is greater than the thickness of the cladding.

How to cut tiles with a grinder

Cutting off a fragment with an angle grinder will become easier if you follow a few rules.

Rules for working with angle grinders

  • The cladding should be cut with front side.
  • You need to cut off a fragment in one go. With each pass, the number of chips increases.
  • The maximum number of chips on the ceramic plate appears in the area where the circle exits. Therefore, at the end and beginning of the cut, the speed is reduced. If the machine has such a function.

When working, the angle grinder makes noise and generates a lot of dust. It is impossible to do anything with the first, but the second can be minimized. Three methods are used for this.

How to reduce the amount of dust at work

  1. Turn on the construction vacuum cleaner. You will need an assistant to manage it.
  2. Supply water to the cutting area. Sometimes it is simply poured from a bottle or hose, but then an assistant is needed. If you attach a water supply device to the casing, you can saw without dust alone.
  3. A shallow seam is cut in the tile plate, then the part is broken along it. When sawing, the icing almost does not dust, so the technique is effective. But it won't work on unglazed models.

straight cut

The easiest and most common way is ceramic. Operations are performed in the following order.

  1. We mark the plate. The cut line must be drawn with a bright pencil or felt-tip pen so that it can be clearly seen. Be sure to leave an allowance for grinding. It is impossible to cut ceramic perfectly evenly, so if the lining is completely visible, we make an allowance of a few millimeters. Then we will remove it with a cylindrical grinding nozzle. For an edge closed, for example, by a plinth, an allowance is not required.
  2. Lay the tiles on a flat, solid surface. So that it does not move, we fix it with clamps, a vice, or simply press it with our foot. We remove everything superfluous, nothing should interfere with work.
  3. We start cutting. Most often, it is not necessary to completely saw the part, it is enough to make an incision on the base, in order to then break off a fragment from it. When entering the cutting edge into ceramics, we reduce the speed of the tool. We hold it perpendicular to the plate, we try to drive smoothly, with the same speed away from us. We adhere to the cut line outlined earlier. Before removing the edge from the material, we reset the speed again.
  4. We lay the notched facing plate on the edge of the table or workbench. With a sharp precise movement, we break off the edge of the part.

This cuts at a right angle. Sometimes it is required to cut ceramics at an angle of 45 °, for example, for decoration. Experienced craftsmen can perform this operation with a grinder. It is better for a novice tiler not to take risks. The part is sawn off at a right angle, the excess is squeezed off with a grinding nozzle.

Masters advise to soak the tiles for 35-40 minutes before cutting. Allegedly, after that it will be easier to cut it. This does not apply. She is not soaked. To obtain the most even cut along the intended line, a ruler or steel plate is fixed with a clamp. Be sure to follow all safety requirements, wear protective clothing and goggles. Scale from the disc can injure the eye.

Notched neckline

It is carried out by a grinder along a curved path. Sequencing.

  1. Mark the base with a marker or pencil.
  2. The workpiece is laid on a flat plane and securely fixed.
  3. We turn on the angle grinder, at low speed we introduce the cutting edge into the ceramics. We carry out small through cuts, the length of which depends on the shape of the cutout.
  4. We remove the remaining fragments along the cut.
  5. We put the abrasive wheel in place of the cutting wheel, grind the resulting cutout.

Round or oval hole

The technology is similar to a figured cutout, only the notches are made in a circle. Sequence of operations.

  1. We mark the future hole with a grinding allowance, since the edge will not turn out to be even. We outline with a felt-tip pen or marker. We draw two lines connecting in the center of the figure, defining its center.
  2. We turn on the tool, carefully make cuts along the intended border of the hole.
  3. We make straight cuts along the markup to the center of the figure.
  4. Carefully knock out the resulting sectors.
  5. With a drill with a grinding nozzle, we process the edge of the opening to the desired smoothness.

Hole rectangular shape performed a little differently. After marking, steel limiter plates are laid on the line, fixed with clamps. Sawing begins from one of the corners, gradually leading the tool to the limiter. Thus, the entire circuit is processed.

So that there are no questions left, we suggest watching a video on how to cut without chips with a grinder.

  • Material prepared: Inna Yasinovskaya

A manual tile cutter is a simple tool.

But in order to use it correctly, you need to be aware of some features.

They will be discussed in this article, the topic of which is a manual tile cutter: a video and a description of the technology for using the tool.

When choosing a manual tile cutter, pay attention to the following characteristics:

  1. Carriage mechanism. There are two varieties: roller and bearing. The roller carriage of a quality tile cutter moves easily at first, but soon loses its smoothness. Bearing tile cutters are more expensive, but have a number of advantages: they last longer, cut more accurately and provide a smooth ride for the carriage.
  2. The bed must have sufficient rigidity, which is provided by the ribs under the bed. The low-strength frame bends under load and the tile breaks crookedly, not along the furrow.
  3. Guide thickness. The higher given parameter, the lower the probability of carriage backlash.
  4. cutting wheel diameter. Should be the larger, the thicker the tile.
  5. Bed size. It is advisable to purchase a tile cutter with a bed large enough to cut large floor tiles and make diagonal cuts.
  6. Manufacturer. Guarantee of quality and durability of the tool - well-established, time-tested brands: Sigma, First, Matrix, Rubi, S.A., Germans Boada.
  7. Additional features. These are the ruler (allows you to estimate the width of the cut and the remaining parts) and the rotary bed (it is used to cut at different angles).

Using a manual tile cutter

Before use, check the serviceability of the tile cutter according to the following criteria:

  1. The diamond roller is sharply sharpened, there are no chips or gouges on the cutting edge. Otherwise, the tile breaks crookedly, you get a lot of marriage. A defective video is changed.
  2. There is no carriage play. If there is play, it is eliminated by adjusting screws. If it does not help, the tile cutter is repaired or replaced.
  3. The carriage moves smoothly. If it sticks, lubricate the guides. It is also useful to lubricate the roller so that it rotates more easily.
  4. Clean stand. The crumbs of ceramics on it look like.
  5. The condition of the rubber mats preventing tiles from slipping. They should fit snugly to the base.
  6. The angle between the stop and the axis of movement of the carriage is 90 degrees. Checked with a square.

It is advisable for left-handers to purchase a tile cutter with a mirrored double ruler.

Benefits of a manual tile cutter

Compared to an electric tile cutter, a manual one wins in the following:

  1. Low cost. It should also be noted that the cutting element is cheap: a diamond blade costs much more than a roller.
  2. Compact and light weight - easy to transport.
  3. Simplicity of design.
  4. Independence from electricity.
  5. No noise and dust.
  6. No operating costs: when using the electric version, you have to pay for electricity.
  7. Ability to work at any humidity and temperature.

Marking before cutting

And here is what loses:

  1. Performance. With a significant amount of work, it is better to use an electric tile cutter.
  2. Cut quality. After a manual tile cutter, the edge, if it is not hidden by the plinth, has to be sanded.
  3. The complexity of the operation. A beginner will have to spend some, albeit a little, time to learn how to move the roller with the same effort and uniform speed.
  4. The ability to cut tiles only in a straight line. Usual electric tile cutter also has such a limitation, but there are special models for curvilinear (shaped) cutting. The cutting element is a ring rotated by the engine.
  5. There is no way to cut a groove in the tile.
  6. The width of the cut off part cannot be less than 1 cm.

In addition, a manual tile cutter is difficult to cut high hardness tiles.

How to cut tiles with a manual tile cutter

The principle of operation of a manual tile cutter is the same as that of a glass cutter: a pressed diamond roller, when rolling, destroys the surface layer and leaves a groove, after which part of the tile is broken off. The difference is that the strong mounting of the roller and the presence of a lever allow you to press on it with great effort.

It sounds simple, but correct execution operation requires knowledge of some nuances. Consider in detail all the stages of cutting.

Tile cutting technology

markup

The marking is applied according to the results of measurements of the area for which the tile is cut. It is better to apply the cut line with a marker - the pencil on the tile is hard to see.

In the absence of experience with a tile cutter, it is advisable to leave an allowance of 3-5 mm for leveling and grinding when marking the tiles, especially if the cut edge is not hidden by the plinth.

Tile cutting technology

The operation is carried out as follows:

  1. The tile is laid face up on the bed, so that the line drawn by the marker is exactly above the breaking edge. Above it is a diamond roller.
  2. On one side, the tile rests against the stop on the frame - this prevents its displacement.
  3. If necessary, cut off a narrow strip, the main part of the tile hanging from the frame. For stability, drywall or bars of the same thickness as the bed are placed under it.
  4. Holding the lever, the tile cutter carriage is transferred to the working position: the support legs are bent and the diamond roller is placed on the tile.
  5. Pressing on the lever, roll the roller along the drawn line. The key to a quality cut is uniform force and speed.

It is advisable for a novice master to practice on a broken or defective tile.

A furrow of sufficient depth must be cut in one pass. If you try again, you cannot set the roller in exactly the same position, you will get two grooves and the tile will break crookedly.

Should tiles be wetted?

Soaking tiles before cutting warm water - useful procedure: the material softens and therefore crumbles less, the cut is smoother.

Soaking time is 40-50 minutes. No more needed - the tile will deteriorate.

Porcelain stoneware is not subjected to soaking - only tiles.

If the tile is large, and large capacity was not at hand, it is wrapped in wet rags.

Cutting: towards or away from yourself

Properly move the tool carriage away from you. So it will be easier to manage it and provide the required effort. But excessive efforts should be avoided - you can damage the material.

Fault

Having brought the roller to the end of the line, the carriage is lifted by the lever, as a result of which the support legs are placed on the tile. They press the lever so that the paws break the tile on the rib protruding from the bed.

How to cut tiles without a tile cutter

Other tools are also used for cutting tiles.

Tongs-tile cutter

Special tongs with a plate on the upper sponge. The cutting roller is installed below.

It is required to run the roller over the material, then grab it with the sponges so that the groove is in the center of the plate, and squeeze the tool.

Tongs can also come in handy if you have a tile cutter.

With their help, bite off fragments small size(when cutting with a tile cutter, the width of the cut part must be more than 1 cm) and form curved cuts, which a manual tile cutter is not capable of.

Bulgarian

If a tile cutter is a highly specialized tool, then it is used to solve a wider range of tasks and therefore is available in almost every household.

Consequently, when performing one-time work, tile cutting is more often implemented with this tool.

Cutting is carried out by a disk. Steel discs are preferred: they are thinner than stone ones and last longer.

Steel wheels are divided into two types:

  1. Segmented. They are separated by slots into parts, which improves heat dissipation and ensures free expansion of the metal when heated. Due to this, the disc is capable of within 1 min. cut the tile without cooling, after which it is twisted for 20 - 30 seconds. at idle to cool down. Due to the ability to cut the material dry, such discs are called dry cutters. Their disadvantage is the low quality of the cut.
  2. Solid. Another name is a wet cutting disc. There are no slots for thermal relief, so you can only work dry without interruption for 10-15 seconds. For long work filing required cold water into the cutting area. Compared to a segmented blade, a solid blade cuts smoother and better.
  3. Combined. Can be used for both dry and wet cutting.

According to their characteristics, combined discs are located between solid and segmented:

  • cutting quality: better than segmented, but worse than solid;
  • continuous operation time: more than continuous, but less than segmented.

For single works of small volume - the combined disk is considered the most preferable.

If it is enough to install the segmented and solid disks for cleaning from crumbs on the other side, then this option does not work with the combined one. This cutting element can only be installed on one side. Cleaning is done by cutting sand-lime bricks or concrete tiles.

Hard varieties of tiles, such as porcelain stoneware, are cut with diamond-coated discs. According to the method of fixing diamond chips, discs for domestic use are divided into two types:

  1. with soldering on silver solder;
  2. with positive lock: the crumb is fused into the heated edge of the disk.

The latter are more expensive, but last longer and better tolerate overheating.

To cut the tile with a grinder correctly, you should follow the rules:

  • The cut starts from the front side: most of the chips are formed when the disk leaves the material.
  • The tile is cut in one pass. With each new time, the number of chips increases.
  • With low requirements for the quality of the edge, the tile is not completely cut: a groove is applied, then the module is broken. This produces much less dust.

Since, in the absence of experience, it is difficult to make an even cut with a grinder, it is recommended to leave an allowance of 3-5 mm for finishing with a grinding nozzle.

glass cutter

With thin tiles with a thickness of 4 - 6 mm, this tool will cope. It is better to choose a variety with a diamond roller. Having cut a furrow, the module is laid on the edge of the table and broken.

Drill bit with pobedite tip

Diameter 6 - 8 mm. It is ground with a diamond wheel to the shape of a pencil, but in such a way as not to grind off the winning soldering. The tip is made round. In the presence of faces, the angles between them act as stress concentrators, which reduces the strength.

A sharpened drill cuts a furrow in the same way as a glass cutter. Then part of the tile is broken off.

Waterjet installation

Such equipment is available in large workshops. The machine delivers under high pressure a jet of water with a diameter of 0.2 mm with the addition of abrasive chips. Cuts tiles smoothly, quickly and along the path of any curvature.

In the absence of tools, you can order cutting tiles in a similar workshop.

After a little training, even a novice master cuts cleanly and evenly with a manual tile cutter. It is only necessary, based on the above tips, to choose a high-quality and serviceable tool.

If it is not there, you can use an alternative option: a grinder, special tongs or a home-made tile cutter from a drill.