Drainage systems at their summer cottage: surface drainage. How to make drainage of the site with your own hands: we do the drainage correctly by studying the projects and types of systems Surface drainage of the site

Drainage systems are designed to reduce the degree of waterlogging of the site in case of unfavorable hydrogeological conditions of the area on which it is located.

Linear drainage systems are a system of channels geographically distributed over the site to collect water from its surface.

Do I need to install drainage in the garden or suburban area?

Site surface drainage systems are designed to quickly remove water from the soil surface. In this way, it is possible to avoid its waterlogging and the demolition of the fertile soil layer by streams of rain or melt water, if the site is located on a slope.

To determine whether the construction of additional drainage hydraulic structures is required on the site, it is necessary to analyze the specific meteorological and hydrogeological conditions of the area, the properties of the soils on the site and its topography.

Waterlogging of the site is likely if:

• the site is located on a slope or in a lowland;
• the soil in the area is clayey or a clayey water-resistant layer lies not far from the surface;
• there is a reservoir near the site;
• the site is located in the flood zone;
• groundwater close to the surface;
• the site is limited by deep-lying foundations.

What is the danger of waterlogging the site

Installing drainage in the area

Waterlogging of the soil and underlying layers leads to their general instability. They become mobile, cease to be a reliable support for garden structures, for example, paths, causing their gradual destruction.

The foundations of the house and outbuildings are exposed to continuous moisture, causing, despite the presence of waterproofing, negative consequences - mold and decay, water in the basement and viewing hole garage.

Appearing here and there on the site, almost non-drying puddles “steal” precious usable area, creating discomfort for people and agrotechnical conditions that are incompatible with life. cultivated plants. In winter, waterlogged soils freeze to a great depth, which the root system of trees cannot withstand and they die.

Proper site drainage from groundwater: installation of various types of systems

Technologies of surface drainage of a country-garden plot

A drainage system is constructed to remove excess water from the site in a timely manner. Drainage systems are of two types - linear, when they are created territorially extended over the area of ​​​​the site, and point systems, arranged at the points of flow, for example, at the drains of downpipes.

Linear drainage system Structurally, it is a network of channels from gutters, closed from above with gratings, or special pipes. Gutters are sloping for natural drainage. To collect sand and soil particles carried away with water and prevent clogging of channels, flow-through filters-settlers are built into the threads of the gutters.

Such a filter is a container with a box inserted inside, which is periodically removed and cleaned of sludge.

Drainage lines from gutters covered with gratings are made either in places with a fixed soil layer (lawns) or in places with a hard surface (paths).

For loose cultivated soil, it is carried out by deepening the drainage system from perforated pipes to a depth of at least 70 cm, below the root system of plants.

Design and installation of a rainwater drainage system

Installing a drainage system - saves you from waterlogging

The need for the device of point water intakes exists in any case, at least in the form of containers under the drains of downpipes with subsequent use of water for irrigation. If the site is in the area high humidity, then without linear system drainage pipes not enough.

They begin with the fact that the scheme of the planned system is applied to paper, counting the required number of gutters and drainage pipes, details for their wiring and docking, as well as the number of sedimentation tanks and plugs. Typically, drainage lines are located along the longer side of the site with slopes of half a degree.

Under the drainage line, they dig a trench with recesses for sedimentation tanks. The depth of the trench is determined by the height of the concrete bed for the gutters, the height of the gutters themselves, the thickness of the grid, plus half a centimeter to the surface.

After laying the gutters from the bottom up along the twine on fresh concrete, the gaps between the edges of the trench and the gutters are also concreted. Water inlets are covered with gratings. The line ends with a sump with a branch pipe in the direction of water drainage.

Doing the right drainage

Pipes (drains) are laid with a slope in a trench with a layer of crushed stone at the bottom for filtration. The pipes themselves must be wrapped with a special permeable cloth to prevent clogging of the drain holes.

From above, the trench is covered successively with layers of gravel, sand and, finally, excavated soil.

Collection and disposal of drainage water on the land

With surface drainage, natural rain and melt water is removed. Therefore, additional treatment facilities, similar to sewer, in this case is not required.

It is not advisable to connect the output of such drainage to the system autonomous sewerage, which will be overloaded, and as a result, unsettled effluents will be at the output.

Surface water that has entered the drainage system can be directly discharged into ravines or reservoirs.. If there is no direct access to them, the drainage system is completed with a sufficiently capacious drainage well.

And already from it, water is pumped through a separate pipeline to a suitable place where it is impossible to harm nature or neighboring areas.

When there is too much precipitation or when ground water too close to the surface, it becomes necessary to protect the site from the influence of excess moisture. Excessive moisture can lead to washing out, heaving, swamping, flooding of basements, if any, serious undermining of the foundation of a house and buildings.

Drainage systems have a thousand-year history, during which only the materials used have changed. If our ancestors used clay pipes, today polymeric materials dominate in drainage systems.

Varieties of site drainage

To summarize all the points, the drainage system can be represented by the following plan:
Site drainage can be superficial or.

Surface drainage

Surface drains are designed to protect buildings and soil from excessive moisture, which can be caused by excessive rainfall, melt waters or water collected through stormwater systems. Surface drains can be divided into the following types:

Linear- are systems of trays laid on the surface of the earth, which have a slope for a stack of water to the point of water intake. For convenient operation, such trays are covered with special protective decorative grilles. Such devices are often additionally equipped with sand traps that allow you to trap sand, pebbles or small debris present in wastewater and which can lead to clogging of the storm drain. Such a site drainage system will do an excellent job of protecting the soil from excessive moisture, but only on condition that the groundwater is deep enough.

Point. They are a system consisting of storm water inlets or water collectors, which first collect water in themselves, and then transfer it to the sewer through pipes laid in the ground. Such collectors are usually installed under downpipes, taps, as well as at the minimum points of the site, which allows collecting excess water.

Surface types of site drainage work great, but you need to choose the right materials and install them wisely, as well as clean the system in a timely manner.

deep drainage

Deep drainage systems- This is an option for regulating the balance of water in the soil by laying perforated pipes in the ground, which are called drains. Such pipes absorb excess moisture from the soil, thereby protecting the site and buildings from the harmful effects of excess water.

In order to properly perform the site, drain pipes must be laid with a slope towards the spillway point. Any reservoir, storm sewer, storage well, etc. can act as such a point. Revision wells must be provided in the system, with the help of which it is possible to clean the network.

It should be noted that deep systems are needed in areas where groundwater is high enough (up to 2.5 meters), in soils that have poor moisture permeability and near various structures in order to eliminate increased moisture.

The arrangement of the deep drainage system is associated with a significant amount of land work. That is why all the work on laying the drainage must be carried out before the construction of the house, as well as complete arrangement site.

One type of deep drainage system is reservoir drainage. It is carried out under the base of the house in the form of a filter pad, which is combined with drains. Such a system will protect the house from excessive dampness and humidity, as well as from flooding with groundwater or melt water.

Drainage works

It must be said that if you can perform the surface drainage of the site yourself from beginning to end, then the deep drainage system must be carried out with the involvement of specialists, because. it needs a project that will include testing the soil for moisture content. Deep drainage should begin with a study of the existing level and amount of groundwater, which is quite difficult to do on your own without special skills.

Please note that erroneous pipe laying can lead to waterlogging of the area and even lead to flooding on the site. That is why it is possible to independently mount a deep drainage system only according to a project prepared by specialists.

The surface fertile soil layer should conduct water well. In cases where it is clayey, then water transfer will not occur. In such cases, it is necessary to improve the site by delivering black soil. If you look at the section of the soil, you can clearly see the layers. Most often, the upper fertile layer occupies about 20 cm, and after it there are layers of sand or sandy loam, under which dense layers of clay lie, which will no longer let water through. Just on the verge of clay and sand, drains should be installed.

The most common way to lay the channels of the drainage system is a system of one main and several side channels.

The slope of the pipes must be maintained at least 3 cm per meter. The water that will enter the side channels flows into the main channel, and from it already flows to the water collection point. In cases where the exit from the main main canal is located below the level of the receiving well, then another intermediate well must be laid at the system outlet. The depth of laying can be different, everything will depend on the level of the main receiving well. For a drain device, it is best, and cheaper, suitable plastic pipes, which must be perforated, however, existing old pipes can also be used by making holes in them along the entire length. Additional drains are also connected to the main drains, and at their joints gaps of 3 cm thick must be made, which are covered with coarse gravel.

Please note that the drainage system of the site can be made without pipes at all. You can simply fill the prepared channels with large gravel. However, such a system would be inefficient.

It is desirable to lay drains not immediately into the ground, but with an interval of gutters made of fine mesh, into which gravel should be filled, in which pipes are already laid. This must be done so that the holes in the pipes are not clogged with silt. In this case, the gravel acts as a filter.

Photo: Legion-Media. The main elements of the drainage system are trays closed with gratings. They are mounted in a row along the edges or (more rarely) across the alleys and in low places where moisture accumulates. Often landscape designers use these channels as a kind of decor, visually delimiting the functional areas of the site with their help

Photo: Legion-Media. metal and plastic lids fixed with stainless steel screws and screws and special brackets

Surface drainage is arranged along the blind area, paths, entrance alleys, on open paved areas (for recreation, parking), and occasionally on the lawn. The system consists of shallow channels through which water flows into sand traps and then is discharged through underground pipes to a lower terrain, a roadside ditch or a drainage well. Such a network helps to get rid of puddles after rains and even slightly lower the level of soil water and thereby reduce frost heaving of the soil.

Photo: Legion-Media. Cast iron grates are not attached to the trays: they are held in place due to their precise fit and considerable weight.

First, the calculation

Photo: AquaStroy. On the lawn and walking paths, trays with plastic gratings of class A15 are appropriate

Before installing the drainage system, it is necessary to determine the slopes of the area and develop detailed plan, which will indicate the location of flumes, sand traps and underground pipes. When selecting the section of elements, it is desirable to carry out a hydraulic calculation, taking into account the amount of precipitation, the length and slope of the channels. Such a calculation can be performed for you by specialists of companies offering components for drainage systems (the cost of the service is from 10 thousand rubles). It makes sense to include at least a 30% margin in terms of throughput in the project - then the system will cope even with heavy rains and will be less likely to become clogged.

On heaving soils, it is better to do without sand traps: these large containers will almost certainly move relative to the trays, and it is too difficult and expensive to lay a foundation under them. It is easier to connect the pipes directly to the trays and to inspect the system more often.
Under the spouts of roof drains, as well as in those places where, due to the features of the relief, local accumulation of water is possible, point rain inlets should be located - small storage tanks, water from which is also discharged through underground pipes.

Is it worth saving?

When arranging linear surface drainage, many summer residents tend to do without special components. For example, they dig a system of grooves 20–30 cm deep and fill them with gravel. Or they lay old asbestos-cement or inexpensive roofing or galvanized steel in the ground, and instead of storm water inlets, leaky barrels and other unusable containers are used. However, gravel drainage silts up relatively quickly and stops working, and trays without covers interfere with moving around the site, break down and do not decorate the landscape at all. Drainage from improvised materials does not function well and is constantly in need of repair, which means that the savings do not justify themselves.

Plastic or stone?

The surface drainage system consists of trays with lattice covers, rain inlets, sand traps and outlet pipes. The market includes products made of concrete and plastic. Let's take a look at the pros and cons of both.

Plastic systems (mostly low-density polyethylene) are the most popular. They weigh little, are frost-resistant, fit securely and are designed for at least 15 years of operation. For pedestrian areas, products of A15 load resistance class (according to the European standard EN1433) are suitable, for car entry - classes B125 and C250. Plastic trays on any soil require a reliable base (reinforced concrete tape), without which they often float, crack and even break under load. The price of the product starts from 380 rubles. for 1 running m (with a hydraulic section of 100 mm).

Photo: Gidrostroy. Scheme of the device of the drainage channel: 1 - sand; 2- gravel; 3 - concrete base; 4 - tray; 5 - lattice

The trays are covered with plastic or steel gratings. The best option is stainless steel covers, the service life of which exceeds 30 years. Galvanized ones are less durable (10-15 years), while plastic ones, although they do not rust, are not suitable for car entrances and even in pedestrian areas are often damaged when cleaning ice and snow.

Prefabricated concrete elements are strong and durable. They are made by vibrocompression; trays designed for high loads are also reinforced with a steel or plastic bar. A significant mass (1 linear meter - an average of 50–120 kg) is both a plus and a minus of concrete parts: on the one hand, it makes installation difficult (often you have to use equipment), on the other hand, it provides a reliable landing in the ground. Concrete trays are joined, sealing the joints with cement glue or rubber sealant, and closed with steel or cast iron gratings; the service life of the structure is at least 50 years.

Photo: Aquastock. As for roads and alleys where heavy vehicles can pass, it is better for them to purchase products of class C250 or even D400

The price of concrete parts is not very high (a tray with a hydraulic section of 100 mm and a length of 1 m costs about 650 rubles), however, taking into account delivery and installation, the costs are 1.5–2 times higher than for a plastic system.

Composite (polymer concrete) trays and storm water inlets are made from a cement-polymer mixture with various fillers (most often glass or ceramic fiber). Such products are lighter than concrete, stronger and more durable than plastic and, despite the relatively high price (from 1250 rubles per 1 linear meter), are increasingly used in private construction.

Surface drainage is unable to significantly lower the groundwater level. This purpose is served underground systems from perforated pipes collecting water into a receiving well, from which moisture is pumped out by a pump outside the drained area

As for the organization of the underground, then for this purpose sewer pipes from PVC diameter 100–150 mm, with walls from 3 mm thick.

Assembly workshop

It is most convenient to install a surface drainage system at the same time as landscaping. (On the equipped site, you will have to partially destroy road surfaces, while damage to the landings cannot be avoided.) Installation begins with markings. The level of laying channels is set using a cord stretched along the level: the trays need to be given a slope of 0.5–1% towards the storm water inlets. Then they dig trenches and build the base of the channels. In dry areas in the pedestrian zone, a layer of cement-sand mortar about 10 cm thick is sufficient. On heaving soils, as well as at the car entrance, a reliable foundation is required - a concrete tape with a height of 15 cm, reinforced with four steel bars with a diameter of 8 mm. The width of the base in any case should be 5–10 cm greater than the width of the tray. The latter are pressed into liquid concrete, joining so that the connecting ridges (or arrows on the sides) are directed in the direction of lowering the level. Start with the tray closest to the bottom of the channel. Underground drainage pipes are laid in trenches on a leveling sand pad. If possible, they should be dug below the freezing depth of the soil - then the system will work in the spring, which means that the site will dry out faster after the snow melts.

Photo: Aquastock. Thanks to stiffening ribs, trays, sand traps and rain inlets made of low-pressure polyethylene (HDPE) are able to withstand significant compressive loads that occur when the soil freezes. And the walls and bottom of the special shape provide reliable grip with concrete base channel

TO common mistakes installation includes the installation of trays without a foundation or on an unreliable foundation, without a slope or with a counter slope, as well as an unstable and leaky connection of elements

free channel

Modern plastic and polymer concrete drainage systems rarely become clogged, as water easily washes away dirt from smooth surface, and gratings trap large debris. And yet, in the fall, you should carefully remove fallen leaves from the covers, making sure that as little debris as possible falls into the trays. In addition, it is necessary to clean the sand traps annually and once every 2-3 years - the entire system, including underground pipes, which are washed with a jet of water under pressure. At the same time, to prevent the growth of the fungus, it makes sense to treat the surfaces with a chlorine disinfectant or a mold repellent. Concrete channels, especially rectangular ones, require more frequent maintenance: they must be cleaned annually, or even twice a year - in spring and late autumn.

Photo: Standardpark, ACO. Collectors (a) and rain collectors (b) are installed at the end of the channels and under roof drains. Storage tanks not only trap dirt and debris, but also help the system cope with peak loads during a downpour

In suburban and summer cottages, there is often an excess of moisture, which adversely affects the yield and the condition of the foundation of the house. To combat this phenomenon, surface drainage is well suited.

Linear surface drainage

The device of linear surface drainage provides for the laying of long gutters, closed from above with gratings. Gutters are laid along the paths, along the contour of the sites and in other places where water usually accumulates.

The linear system works on a simple principle - water is collected in the gutters, flows into them under the created slope and enters the collector well. The gutters are made from different materials. The most popular are gutters made of polymer concrete, concrete and plastic.

Note! A linear surface drainage system prevents flooding of the foundation of the house by collecting water from the roof and nearby areas and diverting it to the sewer.

If it is necessary to arrange drainage around the house, HDPE pipes with a perforated surface can be used for this purpose. You can do it differently: sewer pipes are taken and many holes are drilled into them using a puncher or drill. They must be made along the entire length of the pipe in 3 rows.

• At a distance of half a meter from the house, ditches are dug along the perimeter of the foundation, and perforated pipes are laid in them. Trenches are dug to such a depth that sewer pipes are completely hidden in the ground.
• With the help of a shovel, all internal surfaces ditches.
• The bottom of the trench is covered with a layer of a mixture of gravel and sand.
• Pipes are laid in a prepared ditch at a certain angle and led out of the site. Pipe openings must be fully accessible. In trenches on opposite sides, a slope is made, which contributes to the fastest flow of rainwater into the pipes. With such a linear drainage system around the house, water damage to the foundation can be avoided.

Point drainage is used for local collection of precipitation in the form of rain. They are equipped in many places, which include the space near doors, gutters that are installed on the roof to collect water from the roof, under watering taps coming out of the niches of the house, at the entrance and parking lot, as well as at other points where moisture often accumulates. and puddles form. Concrete wells are arranged under point drainage, on which decorative gratings are installed on top.

There is an option with pumping water. To avoid clogging of pipes, sand traps are provided in the system. The structure of the drainage system, in addition to the sand trap, includes storm water inlets, ladders, drainage systems and storm dampers.

Note! Point drainage system at correct device can be well combined with linear collection and discharge of water.

What elements are included:

• The sump is a container rectangular shape. It is made of polymer concrete or plastic and is equipped with outlets that have access to the water drainage network. Such a network, for example, can be a storm sewer. To make it easier to maintain the storm water inlets, they are equipped with special baskets into which garbage of large fractions is collected. In practice, storm water inlets are also used, in which water seals are mounted. The presence of siphons does not allow spreading through the air near the house unpleasant odors. The storm water inlet can be increased in height - for this, one element must be installed on another.
• Drainage ladders have the form of a container, equipped with a protective grate of a decorative type on top. This element is connected to a surface linear drainage or system storm sewer. The purpose of the drain is to locally collect and drain water from paths, equipped areas and other vulnerable places.
• The storm damper is a protective device of the drainage structure. This element does not allow water to flow in the opposite direction.

Detailed installation instructions below:

Site drainage

A natural drainage system may not be enough if the site area is located in a wetland or in a lowland. Earth in early spring after the snow melts, it is saturated with water, which stands still for a long time, while the sprouted plants begin to rot and die. As a result field work stray from the schedule and the yield of the site does not reach the level that was planned.

• The area of ​​the site is divided into equal sections. Narrow ditches 0.5 m deep are dug. Ditches are arranged at a certain slope so that the water flows down and does not stand still. In order to fully use the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site, after draining the water in the right places, the trenches are laid with branches, and sprinkled on top with a mixture of soil and manure. On temporary additional areas it is possible to grow crops for which dampness is the norm. In autumn, after harvesting, the drainage trenches are restored to their original form - the layer of temporary soil is removed.
• Surface drainage of a storm type is arranged in order to prevent flushing fertile soil from the site during heavy rains or precipitation falling for several days in a row. Drainage trenches are arranged with a slope for the subsequent withdrawal of water from them. The grooves are sealed with concrete, plastic or other trays are arranged in them. A variant of trenches with retaining boards is possible, which rest against the walls of the grooves and are held in a vertical position by transverse struts. Tracks are made on top of such grooves, and the trenches themselves are covered with removable gratings.
• If the site is located in the middle of a large slope, there is a possibility that short-term heavy rains can wash away a layer of fertile soil. In this case, a diversion drainage is necessary, the trenches of which will be arranged in such a way that the runoff will be collected and drained of water along an inclined surface, but outside the site. It is necessary to dig a storm trench across the slope, which will become an obstacle to the flow and divert water along the edges of the usable area. Such a ditch must be permanently open. It can be turned into a ravine by sowing with reeds or other similar plants, but it is better to reinforce the ditch with concrete, because such drainage structures quickly lose their original appearance, erode and collapse.

Site dehumidification option

If the soil of the site consists mainly of clay and loam, excess moisture can be removed using surface drainage, which involves the construction of a network of trenches throughout the usable area.

• First, a plan is drawn on paper, on which a network of ditches located throughout the site is applied, and drainage well, where the collected water will be discharged. In order for the drainage to work properly, the trenches are given a slope towards the water intake. If the site is located on a slope, the direction of the flow is chosen based on the given direction. If the surface of the earth is flat, the slope is created artificially. The number of trenches depends on the degree of soil moisture. The depth of the ditches should be approximately 0.5 m, the width will increase as you approach the water intake.
• After the drainage system is ready, it is checked for the quality of the flow. To do this, water is launched from the hose into the ditches and the flow rate is monitored. If there are areas with stagnant water, the slope in these places increases.
• If the test was successful, you need to start decorating the trenches - bare ditches look unattractive. To do this, a layer of marble chips or decorative gravel is poured onto the bottom of the ditches. Plants are planted on the "shores".