Do-it-yourself drainage system around the house. How to make drainage around the house at an early stage with plastic pipes? Requirements for drainage systems around the house

20.06.2020

Many developers decide to build a house with a basement. The cost of building a basement is comparable to the cost of building a conventional floor.

In the basement, only non-residential, auxiliary premises can be located - a laundry room, a gym, a sauna, a boiler room, a workshop, a pantry, etc. All these rooms with better comfort and convenience would be placed on an ordinary floor or attic.

In the recent past, it was customary to build houses on deep strip foundations. The arrangement of a basement in such a house was really beneficial - the foundation served as the outer walls of the basement rooms.

Application in modern low-rise construction of lightweight structures and makes the device in the basement house unprofitable.

Nevertheless, lovers of tradition and solidity often choose a house with a basement on strip foundation deep laying. To comfortably use the premises in the basement, the basement must be protected from ground moisture.

How to protect the basement or basement from water and dampness

present constantly. Level ground water, the amount of perched water, soil moisture on the site vary according to the seasons of the year and depend on the structure and properties of the soil, the amount of precipitation, the terrain and the type of coverage on the site.

If the house is located on a slope, then, as a rule, it is necessary to divert water flowing down the slope from the house. Water flows down the slope both along the surface and underground horizons.

To protect the basement from water, two lines of defense are arranged:

Annular drainage around the house, at the level of the sole of the foundation, which intercepts and diverts from the walls of the basement most of the water tending to flood the basement.
Waterproofing of basement walls and floors, designed mainly to protect against capillary soil moisture.

Only basement waterproofing, without a drainage device, leads to the fact that water still finds a hole. If not immediately, then in a few years. Damp basement - money down the drain.

If you decide to make a basement or basement in the house, then wall drainage is recommended to be done, you will not regret.

Wall drainage is done simultaneously with the foundation. Its cost is minimal., compared to the cost of protecting an already flooded or damp basement from water.

If you want to take a chance, save on a drainage device and abandon its device, then conduct a thorough research. Assess seasonal fluctuations in groundwater levels at the site. Does it appear in the spring Ask your neighbors if they have drainage, if their basement heats up.

Lack of drainage, as a rule, will require strengthening the waterproofing of the foundation and increasing the cost of its installation.

The design of the wall drainage is adapted solely to protect the basement or basement from the water. If it is necessary to solve other problems, for example, lower the groundwater level throughout the site or reduce water saturation, then other types of drainage are used.

The device of wall drainage around the basement, as a rule, is mandatory:

With a constant or seasonal rise in the groundwater level above the base of the foundation.
If perched water appears on the site in the spring.

For a house located on a slope, from the side of the water running up the slope.
If the site has a waterproof layer of soil.

The last condition is caused by this. The soil cushion of the foundation and the sinuses of the foundation pit are usually covered with permeable soil to reduce the forces of frost heaving. If the soil on the site is waterproof, then the surface water will seep into the permeable backfill of the foundation and accumulate there.

Where to send water from the roof

Water flowing from the roof through the downpipes should not seep into the ground next to the walls of the house.

You can find a description of the device of the drainage system, which directs water from the roof into the wall drainage pipes. Wall drainage pipes in this case have a dual purpose - they also serve to collect groundwater around the foundation and to transport water from the roof.

Using leaky wall drainage pipes to also move water from the roof is quite risky, and usually ends up flooding the basement during heavy rain.

It is best to carry out a separate drainage system to drain water from the roof and surface runoff from the sites on the site.

Wall drainage around the foundation of the house in the context

(click on picture to enlarge)

Scheme of the ring wall drainage of the basement of the house

Drainage pipes - drains, are laid along the walls of the foundation and create a protective ring around the house. At the corners, the ring of drains breaks in the drainage wells. The water collected by drains is discharged into a storage, collection well.

Water can be removed from a prefabricated storage well in several directions:

Used on the site for household needs and watering plantings.
Drop on terrain outside the site.
Filter into the underlying soil layers.
Go to the central sewer of the village.

The method of using drainage water is chosen based on local conditions and the desires of the owner of the house.

In order to discharge drainage water into the central sewerage of the village, according to the rules, the permission of the owner of the sewerage network and payment for services for the reception and transportation of wastewater are required.

In drainage wells, soil particles settle, settle to the bottom and accumulate carried by water in drains. In addition, through the wells, the proper operation of the drainage system is monitored and periodically, as necessary, the drain area is washed with a jet of water from the deposits accumulated there.

Drainage wells are installed at the corners of the route, when the slope or difference in height changes, as well as on straight sections every 40-50 meters. It is not necessary to install a well at the corners of the turn if the distance from the corner to the nearest well is not more than 20 meters. The absence of wells at two corners of rotation in a row is not allowed.

Drain pipe slope

The length of the drain section between adjacent drainage wells should be no more than 50 meters. Drains are laid with a slope of more than 0.5% (0.5 cm per 1 meter of pipe length) towards the collection well.

The angle of inclination is selected so that at the lower mark of the drainage ring around the house, the lower edge of the drain is placed at 20 cm(to the height of the gravel bed) above the base of the foundation. At the upper mark of the ring, the bottom of the drain should be located at 20 cm. below floor level in the basement.

It is not allowed to deepen wall drainage (including gravel bedding) into the sand cushion of the foundation, not to reduce bearing capacity pillows and foundation.

To place pipes with the required slope sometimes it is required to increase the distance between the sole of the foundation and the level of the floor in the basement more than is required for design reasons. This increases the cost of building a foundation.

In this case it can be beneficial to abandon the construction of wall drainage and perform remote drainage. Remote drainage pipes are laid at a distance of 1-3 m. from the foundation. In this case, the lower mark of the drains in height may be lower than the base of the foundation.

Remote drainage can also be beneficial to protect an already built house with a basement.

Ring wall drainage device

How to make wall drainage with your own hands is clear from the drawings, which show the whole process step by step.

Geotextile

Geotextile is a synthetic fabric specially designed for laying in the ground. The material allows water to pass through, but retains soil particles. In the design of the drainage, it prevents silting of the filter bed, drainage plates and pipes with soil particles.

Filtering, draining layer on the foundation wall

On the foundation wall drainage slabs or drainage mats are placed on top of the waterproofing. Special permeable slabs or mats made of polymeric material intercept water that seeps to the foundation wall. Through channels in slabs or mats, water descends to the gravel and then enters the drainage pipes.

In addition, drainage slabs or mats protect the waterproofing from mechanical damage.

The drainage slab is separated from the soil with a layer of geotextile. Manufacturers produce drainage mats with a layer of geotextile already attached to their surface.

Drainage slabs can be easily made by hand. Plates are cast from Expanded clay of the largest and lightest fractions (20-40 mm and more), Slabs of this material will not only drain water, but also serve as a basement wall insulation. Plates with a thickness of at least 100 mm. lay out dry with dressing along the basement wall and cover with a geotextile sheet.

For insulation of basement walls, instead of drainage boards on the waterproofing of the foundation, insulation boards are spot-glued - extruded polystyrene foam 100 thick mm A profiled plastic membrane and geotextiles are fixed on top of the insulation boards.

On sale are membranes with a geotextile sheet already attached to their surface. Through the channels of the membrane, the water that has seeped through the geotextile flows down to the gravel sprinkling of the drainage pipe. The membrane also protects the insulation from soil damage.

Drainage pipes

On sale in the construction market there are drainage corrugated plastic perforated pipes with holes evenly spaced on the surface. Outside, the pipes are covered with a layer of geotextile, which protects the pipes from clogging with soil particles.

For wall drainage, pipes with a diameter of at least 100 mm.

Pipes are joined together with the help of special couplings. At the angles of rotation, it is recommended to join the pipes with two fittings with a rotation angle other than 90 degrees. As a result, the rotation of the pipe will be smoother.

Drainage wells

Drainage wells are assembled from ready-made plastic sections with a diameter of about 300 mm.

You can use any other pipes of approximately the specified size. The bottom of the well should be below the level of the drainage pipes by 200-500 mm.

Wells are cleaned and washed every two to three years. drainage pipes a jet of water.

Prefabricated storage well

The water collected by the drainage system is discharged into a collection well. A well is a reservoir where some amount of drainage water accumulates. From the reservoir, using a submersible drainage pump, water is periodically pumped out in a certain direction, for example, into a surface drain and further to the relief outside the site.

The capacity of the well - the volume from the bottom to the supply pipe, is chosen large enough, so that the frequency of pumping water is not burdensome for the owners.

If the pumping process is automated, then the volume of the well and the degree of concern of the owners can be significantly reduced. To do this, a stationary drainage pump, equipped with a float switch and supply electricity.

In the latter case, for the device of a collection well of small volume it is convenient to use the same design as for the drainage well. In order to increase the volume and ensure the operation of the pump, the collection well is made deeper than the drainage one.

It is necessary to follow that the water level in the collection well did not rise above the level of the drainage pipes.

Drainage water from a collection well can be pumped into an underground tank, where it is accumulated and used for watering plantings, washing cars and other household needs. This is beneficial if in the same container direct the water of the surface drain from the roof of the house and from the sites on the site.

The device of the storage tank, similar to the design of a septic tank autonomous sewerage. For example, such a well-shaped tank, like a septic tank, is made from. You can also use plastic containers.

Water from the roof and from the surface drainage system under no circumstances should it fall into drainage system. Drainage will not cope with the diversion lots of water during a rainstorm and rainwater through the drainage can flood the basement. Pipes and wells of drainage and gutter systems must be isolated from each other.

If on site low level groundwater, and the bottom layer of soil in the area is permeable, then the prefabricated well can be made in the form. Water from the well will seep into the permeable layer of soil. The depth of the well should be such that the filtration zone is in a permeable soil layer.

Frost protection of the drainage system

drainage system-drains, wells at the level of drains and below, in winter should be in a non-freezing layer of soil. It is known that in spring water appears on the surface of the earth much earlier than the soil frozen at depth thaws. Frozen drainage will not be able to keep water away from the foundation.

The soil surrounding the drainage may freeze if located higher. For example, for the Moscow region, the estimated depth will be 0.7 m. This development is especially likely if the basement of the house is not heated or well insulated.

In case of danger of freezing, the soil is insulated, laying under the blind area of the building a slab of PSB 35 foam or extruded polystyrene foam 100 thick mm.

Drainage system around the house

Even the most reliable and high-quality foundation waterproofing cannot endlessly withstand ground moisture. Sooner or later, water will find its way through the opened capillaries, cracks and mechanical defects of the insulating layer. To prevent this from happening, and the foundation does not eventually become a capillary pump and a source of dampness in the premises, it is necessary to divert groundwater away from the foundation, or at least reduce the capillary pressure on the waterproofing surface.

Most reliable way to protect the foundation from wetting is to divert water from it through the drainage. Various drainage systems are described below and examples of their implementation are given.

What is drainage and how does it work

If waterproofing can be compared to a wall for water, then drainage is like a bilge pump. Waterproofing and drainage system around the house perfectly complement each other and provide the most complete protection of the foundation from ground moisture.

As is known from the school physics course, the liquid, according to the law of communicating vessels, always overflows to a lower place. Do not forget that in the soil moisture spreads through the capillaries rather slowly. Therefore, the rapid discharge of the collected water through the drainage pipes allows you to create a dry zone behind them. It is this effect that is used to protect the foundation of the house.

Laying drainage around the house with your own hands is easy. It is a system of perforated pipes that collect groundwater, which flows by gravity to a discharge point in a suitable place, such as a special well.

In any case, the drainage pipes are mounted at a slope. Ideally, if the soil around the house has a slight slope, and there is a ravine nearby, where water can be discharged. On a horizontal section located in a lowland, water has to be collected in a special storage tank - a drainage well, from where it is periodically pumped out as it is filled. The accumulated moisture can be used both for technical needs and for watering plants.

Ready-made drainage pipes can be replaced with homemade ones. A do-it-yourself drainage pipe is made from an orange water pipe (thick-walled pipe for outdoor installation). The effect is achieved by drilling many drainage holes in it.

Types of drainage for a private house

Do-it-yourself drainage of the foundation of a house is of two types: surface and deep. The first of them is necessary to drain water after melting snow and rain from the soil surface or blind area. Structurally, this is an ordinary storm drain. Water is collected in it along the blind area of the foundation, which has a slight slope from the wall of the house in the direction of the sewer. The size of the storm drain depends on the maximum rainfall in the area and the area of the roof that collects water.

To protect against groundwater, it is necessary to equip a deep drainage system. Moreover, it should be located as low as possible, ideally - below the sole of the foundation.

In order to save money and time, some inexperienced developers combine the sewer and drainage system by organizing the drain of the roof drains into the drainage pipe. This should not be done in any case, because during rain the drainage pipe does not have time to drain the drain water, and they actively penetrate the soil through the perforation, causing waterlogging around the drainage. If there is nowhere to drain rainwater, you can drain it directly into the drainage storage tank, but always through your own separate pipe.

The drainage device itself is highly dependent on the type of soil. So for sandy soil with a high clay horizon lying above the base of the foundation, drainage should take place at the junction of the clay and sand horizons. Heavy clay soil does not pass water well, and to determine the depth of water penetration, it will be necessary to dig an exploration pit. On heavily waterlogged lands, it may be necessary to create a local watershed from a waterproof film or even a concrete partition in the ground.

Arrangement of deep drainage

The main element of underground drainage is a drainage perforated pipe that collects water from the ground and transports it by tilting. The greater the slope, the more efficiently the do-it-yourself home drainage works, and the more water is removed from the ground. But a strong slope leads to a sharp increase in the amount of work, especially with a large length of the drainage system.

On the other hand, a small slope of the pipes slows down the movement of water and leads to a gradual silting of the internal channels. A slope of at least 1 cm for each running meter pipes. The slope angle must remain constant throughout the drainage. Otherwise, sediment will begin to accumulate at the fracture sites, which will gradually lead to blockage of the pipes. This angle during the arrangement of drainage must be controlled with a meter bubble level and centimeter lining.

A drainage ditch is dug along the perimeter of the foundation no closer than 50 cm from it. If the blind area of the house is wider than half a meter, we dig a ditch along its edge. The minimum width of the ditch is also 50 cm. The wall closest to the foundation is made vertical. The opposite slope of the ditch is with a slight slope. Further actions depend on the type of soil and the level of waterlogging of the soil.

The device of the drainage system on light soils

If the soil does not suffer from high humidity and has a light mechanical structure, drainage can be arranged according to a simplified scheme. A permeable geotextile is laid at the bottom of the ditch with an overlap on the edges. A layer of coarse sand and a few centimeters of medium and fine gravel are poured on it. A drainage pipe is laid on top of the rubble.

Then it is completely covered with rubble and all this is covered with the edges of agrofibre. Sand and gravel act as a filter to trap solid particles that can clog drainage holes. The ditch with the pipe is covered with a thin layer of fine gravel, and then with soil.

How to make drainage around the house with a high level of waterlogging

For heavily waterlogged soil, the drainage described above will not be enough. To separate excess moisture, waterproofing is pre-equipped along the outer edge of the ditch. The easiest option to make such an artificial watershed is to cover the outer wall of the ditch with a waterproof membrane or several layers of roofing material. The depth of the ditch in this case should exceed the level of the water-resistant clay horizon or be below the base of the foundation.

For full protection drainage should close the perimeter around the foundation. The drain point is equipped in the place of the greatest occurrence of pipes. As already mentioned, storage capacity can be used to collect both groundwater and precipitation. In this case, the joint use of drainage pipes and a drain is unacceptable, and the groundwater discharge point should be located below the connection point of the rain drain.

Outcome

The drainage device around the house provides enough high level protection against wetting of the foundation. Thanks to a properly equipped water drainage system, you will be relieved of many problems associated with increased dampness for many years.

There are several places in a private house that need to be protected from getting wet from the outside. This is the foundation and recessed buildings. Rainwater, all kinds of runoff and rising groundwater gradually destroy the monolithic foundations and walls of the basements. A properly equipped drainage system around the house can prevent the occurrence of this process. It is able to remove excess moisture from structures. Even a very good blind area cannot be compared in terms of the degree of protection of a house with a laid drainage system. It is highly recommended to equip such a system near each house, regardless of the presence of a basement or basement.

A high-quality drainage system around the house with your own hands can be made in several ways:

Features of different foundation drainage systems

The choice of a particular type of drainage depends on the presence of buried rooms, the depth of groundwater, the composition of the soil on the site and the topography of the site itself. Consider what features the drainage device around the house has.

In total, there are 3 types of drainage, which differ in their location and design:

Important: Please note that formation drainage does not replace other types of drainage, but only complements it. Therefore, in addition to it, the main drainage system should be carried out.

Please note that if you decide to do ring drainage around the house with your own hands, the system should be located 0.5 m below the foundation level. Such an arrangement will ensure high-quality removal of groundwater from the building at any time of the year.

And if you are thinking about that, then our separate material on this topic may be useful to you.

Drainage installation

Consider how to make a drainage system around the house in two ways.

Production of wall drainage

Before performing work, it is necessary to prepare the foundation, since the system will directly adjoin it.

For this, the following work is carried out:

The foundation from the outside is primed with a special bituminous primer.
Bituminous mastic is applied to the dried surface.
A reinforcing mesh with 2 x 2 mm cells is glued onto the mastic.
The next day, after the mastic has hardened, the second layer of mastic is again applied to the mesh.

In the photo, the drainage system around the house is a trench and manholes along the edges

a collector well is mounted, to which drainage pipes will be connected. It is located at the lowest point on the site;
using a laser or building level, the slope of the trench passing near the foundation is ensured towards the water collector;
the bottom of the trenches is covered with a layer of sand of at least 5 cm;
geotextiles are laid on the sand, the sides of which will subsequently be overlapped;
a gravel backfill is created having a thickness of the order of 10 cm;
prepared perforated pipes are laid on the gravel layer. They are provided with a slope of 2 degrees;
pipes are joined by adapters and corner connectors;
at the corners of the building, all pipelines enter the installed manholes;
from manholes pipes are laid to drain water into a collection well or drain hole. These pipes are also located in trenches and have a slope;
the pipes are backfilled with gravel (about 10 cm) and the entire contents are wrapped with geotextiles. By means of synthetic ropes, the geotextile is firmly fixed;
further backfilling of the trenches to the level of the soil is carried out with sand or soddy soil.

We looked at how to make drainage around a wall-type foundation. Next, we will pay attention to the manufacture of trench drainage, which is even more popular.

Production of an annular drainage

For this type of work, you will also need perforated pipes, crushed stone, sand and geotextiles. When an annular drainage system is made around the house, the technology involves digging trenches at a distance of 5-8 m from the foundation of the building in order to exclude the possibility of subsidence of the soil around it. The trenches are located around the building and represent a closed system. The depth of the trenches should be such that the drainage passes below the level of the foundation by 50 cm.

A trench (or several trenches) is immediately carried out towards the main catchment well. The slope of the trenches is provided at least 2-3 cm per linear meter. The slope can be adjusted by adding sand in the right places.

the bottom of the trenches is lined with a layer of sand, and then with geotextiles, the edges of which are wrapped around their walls;
crushed stone is poured onto the geotextile with a layer of 10 cm;
pipes with holes drilled in them are laid out on crushed stone. It is desirable to use a pipe diameter of at least 10 cm. It is advisable to pre-wrap all pipes with a layer of geotextile, which will prevent their clogging;

Tip: Regular ones are fine. pvc pipes used for sewerage. In them, you can drill holes of small diameter with a drill, placing them in a certain order.

the slope of the pipes is checked, which must be at least 2 degrees;
manholes are mounted at pipe bends, closed with removable covers. The same wells should be installed on long straight sections, with a step of 12 m;
crushed stone or gravel is poured over the laid pipes with a layer of 20-30 cm;
the entire “pie” inside the trenches is wrapped with overlapping geotextiles;
the place remaining in the trenches is covered with river sand and covered with turf.

Features of drainage wells

Any drainage around a site or structure should be constructed using multiple manholes located at pipe bends. It is in these places that clogging of drainage pipes most often occurs. Through the manhole, you can control the cleanliness of the drains and clean them if necessary. Wells can be purchased or made from any material. They should be of such a width that it is convenient to clean them by lowering your hand there.

In addition to several manholes, at the lowest point of the site is collector well designed to collect all the water flowing through the channels. This is a wider and more voluminous structure, which can be concrete, plastic or metal. Its depth is chosen in such a way that the pipes entering it are at a considerable distance from the bottom. This makes it possible to periodically clean the well from sediments accumulated at its bottom and allows the well to be filled with sewage. From the collector tank, water can be pumped out by a pump or go by gravity to designated places.

By creating a drainage system around the house in accordance with all the rules, you will get rid of the detrimental effect of excessive dampness affecting the foundation and recessed rooms of the house.

Excess water at country house even more dangerous than its lack. You need to know how to take it away and save it for later use. Indeed, during the season, the supply of moisture and the need for it are not equivalent, which means that the process must be controlled. This will help local drainage systems.

Drainage systems around the house

Excess water in soils surrounding Vacation home, capable of causing irreparable damage to the foundation and buried parts of the building. The reason for this is the hydrological situation at the construction site. This can happen for various reasons:

high location of water-bearing sand, resulting in an increase in the level of moisture in seasonal highs from melting snow;
availability of waterproof clay soils, preventing the rapid outflow of fluid;
the location of the house in a lowland, which is why drains from the surrounding area are directed towards it.

This is largely due to errors in the design and construction of a house in adverse hydrogeological conditions.

The wall drainage system, together with good waterproofing, removes moisture from the foundation, extending its service life

Types of drainage according to execution

There are several types of drainage systems to remove excess moisture:

Open devices for water discharge. They are made in the form of ditches. To protect against silting, large stones, fragments of brick or crushed concrete are placed at the bottom of the ditch. Such devices are used only to drain liquid from large areas. The sanitary and aesthetic condition of the spillway does not allow it to be used around the house.
Water in such ditches can stagnate, so open drainage is not used in the local area
Filling pipeless systems. They are the same ditches with the same filling. The difference is that the fillers are wrapped with geofabric, which acts as a filter. A gravel cushion and a sandy filter layer are poured over it. The unfilled space is filled with previously excavated soil. The soil is being recultivated, as a result of which the device quickly overgrows with grass and becomes invisible. Cleaning such drains is impossible, they can only be redone.
Backfill drainage is covered with a fertile layer of earth, but it cannot be cleaned when clogged
Closed drainage systems. With this design, the ditch is covered with geofabric with the release of edges on the walls, after which gravel of the middle fraction is poured into it. This is followed by the laying of pipes and their joining with couplings or tees. They are placed with a slope towards the drain of about 2-3 degrees and are covered with gravel from above with a layer of up to 20 centimeters. Then the edges of the geotextile are overlapped. It is advisable to sprinkle this entire “pie” with a layer of coarse sand up to 10–15 centimeters. The surface is leveled backfill previously excavated soil and reclamation of the sod layer.
To increase the reliability of drainage, drainage pipes (drains) are covered with a layer of gravel from above

Types of drainage systems for their intended purpose - device and installation

To normalize living conditions in a waterlogged area, several types of drainage systems are used. To remove excess moisture from the site, developed systems are used. The distance between the drains in them is determined by the qualitative characteristics of the soil.

Ring systems

Such drainage schemes are arranged in the absence of recessed premises in the design of a residential building. The distance from the foundation to the drains in this case is 2-4 meters. This is also due to the characteristics of the soils. On heavy loam or clay, the drain is able to drain a limited area around it, and sandy or light sandy soils help to collect water over a larger area.

Inspection or rotary wells are installed at the corners of the drainage system. Their purpose is to inspect the state of the system and, if necessary, to clean the drains from above with pressurized water. Similar wells are also arranged on straight sections more than 10 meters long. By closed system water flows through drains into a storage well or a special container - a tank. When the system overflows, automatic pumping of liquid out of the area is activated. After cleaning in the tank, the water is suitable for use for household needs - for washing a car, watering a garden, and so on.

The drainage ring system is often combined with a storm sewer.

Such a system is considered mandatory if the house has recessed rooms - basement or semi-basement. Its device is usually made during the construction process when installing the foundation. The depth of the drains should be below the reference plane of the base of the building by approximately 50 centimeters. The purpose of wall drainage is to collect and remove moisture from the foundation. For its construction, only perforated pipes in geotextile insulation with gravel and sand filters are used.

The wall drainage system is performed as follows:

After proper curing of the concrete foundation, the formwork must be dismantled.
Perform waterproofing of the base wall. To do this, it is better to use bituminous mastic with pre-treatment with a primer. The brand of soil is indicated on the packaging with mastic. Keep the layer for a day, then repeat the operation.
After complete drying, the foundation must be smeared bituminous mastic for waterproofing
Deepen the ditch along the foundation by about half a meter.
Cover the bottom of the ditch with geofabric, fix the edges on the ditch wall and on the foundation.
Pour gravel to the bottom in a mixture of fine and coarse fractions with a layer of 20 centimeters. If coconut filter pipe is used, coarse sand should be used instead of gravel.
Lay the drains, observing a slope of about 1-2 mm per meter of length in the direction of the liquid flow. Slope control laser or spirit level.
Drainage pipes are laid along the entire perimeter of the foundation with a slope towards the drain collector
Install wells at the corners of the drain system.
Fill the pipes with gravel (or sand) about 20 centimeters above the pipe. Wrap the ends of the geotextile over the gravel with an overlap.
The drainage pipe is covered with a layer of gravel and covered with the rest of the geotextile.
Fill the ditch with previously excavated soil. Alternatively, instead of backfilling with soil, it is possible to make a clay water seal. To do this, the clay in the right amount is soaked with water for a day. Then a solution is prepared from it in the consistency of thick sour cream. Fiber chips must be added to it as a reinforcing element. The solution is laid on top of the geotextile at a level below 10 centimeters from the upper edge of the bituminous waterproofing. Clay seal should be dried for 4-7 days, periodically spraying it with water.

Further actions are performed in conjunction with the device storm sewer.

Basement drainage (reservoir)

Reservoir drainage is advisable to use with high groundwater or the presence of a reservoir near the house. Basically, it works at the maximum rates of water inflow of a seasonal nature.

Installation of such drainage is carried out during construction before laying the basement in the following order:

A pit is being torn off for a basement device.
On the bottom cleared of construction debris, a geotextile sheet is laid and a gravel cushion is arranged.
Reservoir drainage is arranged in a pit dug and covered with gravel
Drains are laid out and removed for docking with the wall drainage system during its installation. To do this, they put on sleeves from steel pipe to later place them in the body of the foundation.
For joining drains, special metal or plastic couplings are used.
After that, the geotextile is wrapped on a gravel layer and poured upper layer gravel.
The bottom of the basement and the foundation itself are being poured.
A wall drainage circuit is mounted, a reservoir circuit is connected to it. A well is installed at the junction.

Storm sewer

The name itself suggests that such systems are used to collect and dispose of rain and melt water from the site. Storm drains are especially necessary on soils with a substrate of low-permeability clay layers.

The main functions of storm sewers are:

collection of rain and melt water in storm water inlets;
filtration of drains from sand;
purification of liquid from oil pollution.

If all these functions are implemented as part of a stormwater device, the water from it can be used for household needs.

To implement such tasks, the following devices are needed:

Thus, additional functions of storm systems are implemented:

For storm sewers, the following components are used:

drain pipes and gutters - used as part of the roof of the building to collect water and direct the flow to the drainage system;
trays - are installed to collect the rain flow and transport water to the storage tanks;
storm water inlets - serve to accumulate liquid and its primary sludge until large solid components settle;
collector well - is intended for combining drains from different storm water inlets and final settling of water.

Storm sewer is a surface system, so it does not require significant excavation. A feature of its device is the use of pipes with solid walls for transporting wastewater. The drainage wiring is mounted separately and perforated channels are used on it.

Photo gallery: components of a storm sewer

Do-it-yourself drainage device around the house

The essence of the problem is to practically solve the set tasks with minimal cost Money. To do this, it is necessary, first of all, to develop a drainage device.

Drafting a drainage system

This measure can be successfully carried out only on the basis of objective data from a hydrogeological survey of the site. To do this, you can make test drilling at several points. It can be done using a small diameter auger drill. The more holes will be made, the more accurate the information will be for making a decision.

Considering soil samples from different depths of wells, one can get an idea of the quality of soils and their moisture content, that is, to obtain objective information to answer such questions:

at what distance from the walls of the house to install ring drainage;
whether there is a need for a reservoir drainage device;
at what depth to lay drains;
what pipes to choose for the drainage system.

Based on the results of the research, materials are selected, a layout and type of watershed is drawn up, and all the necessary components of the system are purchased.

Installation of drains

The system is assembled after laying the geofabric in the trench and backfilling the bottom layer of the gravel pack. The pipes are laid out along the axis of the ditch and the presence and magnitude of the slope in the desired direction are checked. To do this, it is good to use a laser level. For different types pipes, the angle of inclination should be slightly different, but on average it is enough to provide a slope of 1.5 mm per linear meter of the pipeline.

Thereafter:

After completion of work, only well covers and drain grates will remind you of the presence of the system.

Video: drainage device around the house

Getting rid of excess moisture around a country house, you can not only protect yourself from a number of troubles. It is quite possible to use the diverted water rationally. The excess water accumulated in the spring can be very useful during the dry summer.

Drainage at home is needed so that puddles do not accumulate on the site after rain, and those living in the house do not have to suffer from dampness. High-quality drainage prolongs the construction period, and therefore it is necessary to equip it, despite the fact that work on its device is quite laborious.
It is necessary to protect the foundation of the building from moisture as much as possible, since the destructive effects of water on building support structures are well known.
Some homeowners believe that waterproofing the foundation is able to cope with moisture and do not take any additional measures to protect the house from water. In fact, this state of affairs is justified only for those buildings that are located on sandy soils. Houses standing on alumina or loam have every reason to be flooded with water during the spring snowmelt, since the groundwater level on these types of soil rises quite high to the surface of the earth. Therefore, it will not be possible to cope with drainage by the forces of only one waterproofing. It is necessary to provide more serious protection from water. In this case, it is necessary to equip drainage around the house.

Drainage: three types of systems

Drainage systems:

Location of drainage layers.

Open. They imply the use of open ditches up to 50 cm wide and about 0.5-0.7 m deep. Advantages: technically simple. But they are rarely used anywhere, because from an aesthetic point of view, the appearance of open ditches does not particularly attract the eye and does not decorate the landscape.
Closed. These are engineering communications, which are a prefabricated network of perforated pipes (mainly from polymer materials) laid on gravel bedding. A drainage system of this type is considered the most efficient, but also the most time-consuming.
Backfilling. There are some similarities with open type, but the pit is not empty, it is covered with permeable material: crushed stone of a large fraction, broken brick, etc. From above, the ditch with all its contents is covered with cut turf. Such drainage has its advantages, they are expressed in its durability, especially if the hole is covered with geotextile before filling. The drainage system also has its minus - the impossibility of cleaning when it becomes silted.

Drainage system for the home: a classic version of the scheme

Along the perimeter of the building, trenches are dug for laying drains, they must comply with the dimensions of the slope up to 1%. The discharge point (collector well) is organized at the bottom of the system.
A drainage pump is included in the system if it is not possible to provide an appropriate slope.
Drains are made from perforated pipes.
Revision wells are an indispensable component of the scheme. They are installed at the corners of the building.

DIY drainage: construction tools

hacksaw for metal;
shovel;
hydraulic level;
wheelbarrow for transportation of crushed stone and removal of soil;
tamper.

Drainage device

Wall drainage of the foundation.

The drainage system can be equipped independently, without the help of specialists.

Trench preparation provides for groundwater drainage. The sequence of earthworks is characterized by the following stages of construction:

The trenches are torn off so that their width accommodates the pipe and there is still a free space of 10 cm from it on each side. Their depth depends on the depth of the foundation of the house. The pipes are located 0.5 m lower than the lowest point of the foundation.
It is necessary to make regular measurements of the slope when preparing trenches.
The bottom of the ditches is carefully tamped, then sand is poured with a thickness of about 10 cm and is also tamped.
The trench is covered with geotextile so that its edges overlap the edges of the ditch.
Make another layer of backfill - gravel or expanded clay. The material is covered with a thickness of 20 cm, while constantly monitoring the slope.
The next stage is to lay pipes in ditches, and revision wells are placed in the corners of the house.
Gravel is again poured on top of the pipes, the height of which should reach 20 cm.
The edges of the geotextile are aligned over the gravel backfill. The geotextile will serve as a protection for the gravel, preventing soil from getting into it, and will not allow it to silt. Secure the material with polypropylene tape or twine.
Since storm water and drainage are built at the same time, storm sewer pipes are placed on top of the geotextile.
Non-perforated polymer pipes are used as a drainage system for rainwater.
Rainwater outlets installed under the roof drainpipes are connected to the stormwater pipes.
The network of pipes from which the drainage system and the storm sewer network are made are connected to a drainage well, from which it is led into a reservoir located nearby or a roadside ditch.
Then the trench is covered with sand 10 cm thick, it is rammed from the sides.
The last backfill layer is the soil that was taken out at the stage of excavation. The top of the trench is covered with turf cut before the start of work.

wall drainage

Mandatory conditions for wall drainage are the presence of a basement or basement. Its installation is carried out at the same time when the foundation is being erected. In this way, it will be possible to avoid unnecessary labor costs, since no additional trenches will be required. Drains can be laid in a pit dug under the foundation.

Diagram of closed drainage systems.

Wall drainage is calculated by calculating the length of the trenches and the optimal slope (at least 1% of the length) for the location of the pipes.

Important: for example, if the length of the trenches in general is 25 m, then the distance between the highest and lowest points of the system will be 25 cm.