Drain pipe. Laying a drainage system in a summer cottage Drainage pipes installation

20.06.2020

Why is drainage needed?

Before enjoying outdoor recreation, the owner land plot Much effort needs to be put into improving it. A large number of land plots outside the city limits are characterized by waterlogging of the soil.

To get rid of excess moisture on the site, a drainage structure is created, which is an outflow of liquid artificially laid in the soil, consisting of a system of channels or pipelines. Once in them, the water moves towards specially equipped storage wells and reservoirs or is discharged outside the local area.

In practice, the owner of the site should be alerted by a number of signs of the presence of excess moisture, which indicate the need to equip drainage:

growth in the area a large number moisture-loving plants;
periodic appearance or constant presence in the basements and cellars of groundwater buildings;
the formation of poorly drying puddles after rain.

But as practice shows, the absence of the above signs does not indicate that there are no problems with waterlogging and that they will not appear in the future. The best solution may be to consult a specialist who will determine the degree of soil moisture in the area and the need for drainage work.

Drainage system options

Deciding how to style drainage pipes, you should be aware of the existence of several ways to create drainage structures:

Creation of trenches with gravel and sand. A closed-type drainage system is ditches and trenches dug in the ground, which are filled with a layer of rubble, and sand is placed on top. Often on personal plots they use an effective design called a "herringbone" - secondary pipelines are brought to the central highway.

Installation of perforated pipes

Before the installation of drainage pipes, calculations are made and building materials are selected.

seasonal groundwater level;
soil characteristics and soil structure;
the volume of moisture in the form of flood waters and precipitation.

All this information can be requested from the regional office of land resources. Based on the data obtained, specialists will make calculations and find out the required trench depth and pipe parameters.

When laying drainage pipes with your own hands, preference should be given to plastic products. The device of plastic pipes is simple - they have two layers of polyethylene or PVC, so that the products will last at least 50 years even if they are installed at great depths.

The procedure for laying drainage pipes with your own hands

The creation of a drainage structure begins with the marking of the territory, according to a pre-compiled scheme. Then they dig trenches with a depth that was established during the calculations. To determine their width, 40 centimeters are added to the outer diameter of the pipes. Also, do not forget about the slope of the drainage pipe about 3 °.

Pipes wrapped with geofabric are laid on a pillow. The connection of drainage pipes is carried out using special couplings.

At the final stage, backfilling is performed - performing all the steps in reverse order. On top of the pipes, crushed stone, sand and soil, previously taken out of the ditch, are poured in layers. Sod is laid on top, if desired.

discrepancy between the depth of the dug trench and the needs of the system, which may result in a violation of the water balance on personal plot;
use of drainage pipes of the wrong type that should have been used. As a result, the constructed structure will quickly fail;
incorrectly made angle of inclination of the drainage. This leads to incorrect operation of the system, and on the ground there are serious problems with the observance of the water regime.

If the laying of drainage pipes can be done independently, then entrust the calculations and drawing up the scheme to specialists. Performing a fairly simple job, you must follow the instructions, paying special attention to the angle of inclination of the system, the reliability of the connection of the elements, the correct arrangement manholes.

Laying drainage pipes with your own hands: installation, how to lay, laying drainage pipes with geotextiles, connection technology, photo and video examples

Do-it-yourself drainage pipe: step-by-step laying technology + analysis of the nuances of organizing drainage

Drainage is a piping system designed to drain excess fluid from a site. It must be equipped if underground aquifers come too close to the surface or there is a risk of flooding the area during spring floods.

Let's understand the system construction technology: how the drainage pipe should be laid with your own hands, what tools and materials will be required for this.

When the site needs drainage

Drainage is an expensive system, even if you do not have to pay for the services of specialists and the owner of the site is ready to do all the work on his own. Therefore, you should figure out how much it is generally needed.

The need for a system device cannot be determined “by eye”, because groundwater can lie close to the surface, which becomes a real problem only during floods or heavy rains.

Many areas are located in the lowlands. Waterlogged soil causes root rot, which creates many difficulties in caring for the garden and garden. Plants are often affected fungal diseases, "eats" the mold. Some crops do not take root in wet soil, and the crop rots in the bud.

Dense clay soils do not absorb water well. This leads to frequent flooding of the underground parts of buildings. Due to the high degree of mineralization, ground and atmospheric waters negatively affect buildings: they destroy building materials and provoke corrosion. Even high-quality waterproofing is not able to 100% prevent basements, foundations, plinths from getting wet. As a result, buildings serve much less than they could.

You can determine whether drainage is needed on the site by several signs:

Terrain relief. Sites located in lowlands and on steep slopes need a drainage system. Otherwise, fertile soils can be eroded or flooded during rains and floods.
Puddles. The flat terrain is convenient for construction, but puddles can appear and remain for a long time. This is a clear sign that water is poorly absorbed into the soil. A drainage system should be installed throughout the site.
Rotting of the root system of plants. If excess liquid remains in vegetable gardens, flower beds and lawns, the plants will rot and get sick.
moisture loving plants. If one or more types of moisture-loving plants grow on the site, this clearly indicates waterlogging of the soil.
Flooding of basements and cellars. An obvious "symptom" of the need for drainage is the flooding of foundations and underground building structures.
Hydrogeological research and observations. If experts have determined that the site has a high GWL, or similar conclusions can be reached during excavation, care should be taken to drain the soil.

Proper laying of drainage pipes on the site with your own hands - the only way Get rid of excess water inexpensively and effectively. If you contact a specialized company, the system will cost significantly more. It is better to understand the features of the arrangement of drainage and do everything yourself.

How is the drainage system

Soil drainage can be deep and superficial. In the first case, the system is designed to divert groundwater if they flood the area. In the second, drainage provides a decrease in soil moisture during the flood and rainy season. Both types of systems can be designed and assembled by hand.

Depending on whether it is necessary to collect moisture from the entire site or only from certain zones, linear or point drainages are equipped. Systems of the first type require careful design; when arranging them, it is necessary to strictly observe the laying technology and the slope angle of the drainage pipes.

In linear systems, there is a need if you need to drain areas around buildings, paths, entrances, ennoble the local area or remove excess moisture from the garden. Drains are shallow ditches where water flows and then moves to special receiving tanks, storm sewers or to an off-site discharge point.

Point collectors do not need to be accurately calculated and prepared diagrams. They serve for local drainage and are located on flat areas, in recesses. Therefore, there is no need for a large amount of excavation, and for the arrangement of a point system, much less materials than for linear.

Open systems are very simple to implement and cheap, but they spoil the landscape with an unaesthetic appearance. Another disadvantage is that the walls of the ditches have to be constantly corrected, because. they crumble under the influence of moisture, and the system ceases to perform its functions (water stagnates at the bottom of the trenches and does not move to the place of discharge).

To solve the problem of shedding the walls of the ditches, you can use the method of backfilling with crushed stone: a large fraction material is laid on the bottom, and a fine fraction on top, after which the entire drainage cushion is covered with turf. This option allows you not to trim or strengthen the walls of the trenches, but it is suitable for areas with relatively low humidity, because. the carrying capacity of the ditch is greatly reduced.

For arrangement closed system use special trays-water collectors made of concrete or polymer materials. They are covered with gratings on top to drain water. Such a device helps prevent shedding of the soil, and dirt and debris do not get inside the structures. In most cases, site owners prefer light polymer tanks, because. they are easy to install and durable.

When determining how to properly lay the drainage pipe to protect the plants from excess moisture, you can use the average values. As a rule, the optimal depth is 0.6-1.5 m. Moreover, for flower beds, lawns, beds, it does not exceed 0.9 m, and to protect the rhizomes of trees, it is necessary to dig the deepest trenches, especially if the site is located on peat soils.

Types and options for choosing drainage pipes

Of all the materials for the manufacture of pipes, polymers are the most popular. Their undeniable advantages are durability, resistance to chemicals and smooth inner walls that do not stick to dirt. Stormwater and groundwater drain into the pipeline and freely move to the water collectors by gravity.

Drainage system made from modern materials capable of serving up to half a century. The main thing is to mount it correctly, conduct technical inspections on time and not ignore the need for repairs. Another advantage of polymers is their relatively low cost, since ready-made drainage is inexpensive, practical and durable.

An excellent solution is a pipe in a geotextile sheath. External material filters water, retaining dirt. Due to this, the pipelines do not silt. An alternative to drainage pipes is ordinary sewer pipes. From them you can make a drainage with your own hands. To do this, simply drill holes in the products, and wrap them with geotextile fabric on top.

If a local drainage system is required, pipes with a diameter of 100-200 mm can be dispensed with, and if it is necessary to remove moisture from a large area or there is too much water, it is better to choose products with a diameter of 300-400 mm. The best choice is a special drainage pipe with a filter shell.

Drainage pipeline laying technology

When arranging drainage, the relief of the site is of fundamental importance. The system must be built in such a way that there are no problems with the outflow of fluid into the ditches. If there are no results of geodetic studies, you should independently draw up a diagram, marking on it the places where rainwater drains.

When creating a circuit, you need to be careful, because. errors will cause drainage to be ineffective. According to the finished drawing, they outline how to lay and tilt the drainage pipe and where to install the water collectors. After checking the data, markup is carried out on the ground and work begins.

The pipeline leads to a drainage well. If it is long and located on a flat area, manholes are equipped at each segment of 50 m. They are also needed in places where the pipeline turns and bends, where the slope changes.

A drainage well can also be built with your own hands. It consists of a bottom, a shaft with a neck and a hatch. The dimensions of the well should be large enough so that a person can descend into it and clean it of silt. If it is not possible to equip an overall well, then it should be equipped in such a way that it is possible to wash the walls with a hose and scoop out the dirt.

Concrete, plastic, brick can be used as materials for the manufacture of wells.

The strongest and most durable structures are made of reinforced concrete well rings. They have a large diameter, they are easy to maintain. Minus - difficulties with installation due to the large mass. As a rule, you have to attract assistants or use special equipment.

Do-it-yourself drainage pipe laying technology

The nuances of the technology of laying a drainage pipe with your own hands. Features of the choice of drainage pipes and arrangement of the system. Drainage Installation Instructions

Drainage pipes: do it yourself

The increased humidity of the site is always a source of big problems for the owners. Wet soil destroys plants - due to insufficient oxygen supply, roots rot and almost the entire crop is destroyed. Not the best way to feel and buildings. The foundations become damp, water appears in the basements in the spring, the walls are covered with a network of cracks and colonies of fungus.

Excess moisture can be easily removed with the help of special engineering structures known as drainage. The owners should pay attention to the arrangement of the drainage system in the first place immediately after the acquisition of the site. And preferably before carrying out large-scale construction work, if any are planned.

How and why drainage works

An artificially constructed watercourse is a system of underground pipelines and surface channels for collecting water. Moisture enters special containers, and then is removed outside the site.

It is possible to determine whether a site needs drainage by indirect signs. The high moisture content of the soil is evidenced by:

the presence of moisture-loving plants (for example, nettles);
flooding of cellars and cellars;
long drying of the site after rain (large puddles remain, from which water does not drain well).

But even in the absence of such warning signs, structures are not immune to water damage. For example, during heavy rains or during active snowmelt. For this reason, experts recommend, in any case, to install drainage around the foundation with their own hands and equip storm drains.

The main advantage of this type of drainage systems is the exclusion of expensive treatment facilities and other technical units. The complete system consists of:

from drainage pipes;
storm drains (gutters and storm water inlets);
sand traps - special mechanical filters at the inlet to the system collector;
common drainage wells;
a collector with a check valve (from here the water is discharged into the ground or a reservoir).

How to choose pipes

The main element of the system is the pipeline. For this reason, special attention is paid to the choice of pipes or drains, as they are more commonly called. Experts recommend paying attention to the following technical specifications.

Manufacturers offer products made of asbestos cement, polyethylene (with perforation) and polyvinyl chloride (perforation can be done by hand). Asbestos cement is the cheapest material. However, there are serious doubts about its environmental safety. Therefore, an increasing number of buyers opt for products made of durable plastic.

Ready-made perforated drains are sold in a geotextile wrapper. Cheaper PVC pipes require additional processing - cuts are made in a checkerboard pattern up to 5 mm wide. Processing is carried out on both sides. The distance between the cuts is 50 centimeters. Additionally, you will need to purchase a geofabric to wrap the pipe before laying it in the ground. The fabric serves as a filter and prevents liquid dirt from clogging the perforated pipes.

The diameter is selected depending on the amount of groundwater and precipitation.

Usually the diameter is from 5 to 8 centimeters.

Soil type

Soil type is one of the most important parameters when choosing pipes:

In soils with a high content of crushed stone, perforated products are laid, but without a geotextile filter.
Sandstones use geotextile-wrapped pipes with perforations. Additionally, it is recommended to make a sprinkling of crushed stone to prevent deformation of the pipeline.
V clay soil perforated products with a coconut fiber filter are mounted. More cheap option– use of geotextile. Be sure to make a backfill of crushed stone, covering the pipeline by 15-20 centimeters.
For loam, perforated pipes wrapped with geotextile are used.

In any soil, you can also use ordinary PVC pipes with homemade perforations and geotextile winding. This will greatly reduce the cost of the drainage system.

Tools and materials

For work you will need:

shovel and bayonet shovel;
garden wheelbarrow for soil;
manual roller for compacting sand and gravel;
mounting knife for cutting pipes;
drill or grinder, if you want to make notches (perforation);
scissors for geotextile.

You should also prepare building materials:

pipes;
adapters for manholes and collector;
fittings for pipe installation;
plastic pipes with a diameter of 30 to 50 cm for arranging inspection and drainage wells (you can also
purchase ready-made wells with a hatch or plastic tanks);
geofabric in rolls;
crushed stone or gravel, sand.

Work order

Drains are laid in the following order:

trenches are dug along the marking line, their depth should be below the freezing point of the soil;
a plan is drawn up and marking is carried out on the ground;
a layer of sand up to 10 centimeters thick is poured onto the bottom and carefully compacted with a skating rink;
crushed stone or gravel is laid on top (layer thickness 20 cm);
pipes are laid on the prepared pillow;
the system is mounted using couplings, and then the angle of inclination of the pipes towards the water collectors is checked;
at the joints and turns of the pipes, manholes are equipped (a piece of plastic pipe is cut off, a protective cover is mounted);
performed backfilling- a layer of crushed stone, sand, soil is laid out sequentially;
on top, you can lay turf or sow herbaceous plants;
at the end of the outlet pipe after the collector, a check valve is mounted or a well is arranged to collect water (a sealed plastic tank is used).

Highlights when laying

The drainage system must comply technical requirements. Self-activity in this matter is not welcome. For this reason, owners should pay attention to some important points:

To carry out the work, it will be necessary to create a vertical plan of the site, taking into account the occurrence of groundwater in a particular area. Specialists will help to compile it for a fee.
The exact depth of the pipeline, its diameter and type are calculated. At this stage, you will also need the help of specialists.
When digging a trench, make sure that its size is approximately 40 centimeters larger than the diameter of the pipes used. The slope of the trench is from three degrees (from 0.5 to 1 meter slope).
Manholes are located no closer than fifty meters from each other.
Installing a check valve or arranging a water collector is a prerequisite for the proper functioning of the entire system.

Common Mistakes

The most common mistakes in the arrangement of the drainage system are as follows:

shallow depth of trenches (decrease in system efficiency and increased risk of drains freezing in winter);
the use of pipes of the wrong type and diameter (leads to a quick failure of the system);
lack of an angle of inclination or a small angle (the operation of the system is paralyzed at maximum load).

Installation drainage system- work that the owners of the house can do. However, it is better to entrust the preparation of a plan and carrying out all the necessary calculations to specialists.

Also, special attention is paid to compliance with all technical standards. The selection of pipes, the depth and angle of their laying are important points in the installation work.

Maintenance

Even a properly installed and well-functioning drainage system requires regular maintenance. Maintenance. Inspections of drainage and manholes are carried out once or twice a year. The owners should be alerted by the low water level, which may indicate:

clogging of drains;
about the appearance of a leak in the pipeline;
about the silting of the drainage well.

Sludge is the easiest to deal with. To do this, it is necessary to clean the drainage runoff using a fecal pump with a float shut-off mechanism. Such a unit will automatically cope with polluted water containing large impurities.

Flushing of drains is carried out with special equipment. To solve the problem with clogging of the system, you need to contact the experts.

Proper laying of drainage pipes with your own hands - highlights and typical mistakes

Laying drainage pipes: purpose of drainage, selection of drainage pipes, tools and materials, installation procedure, common mistakes, system maintenance

The most effective way to protect the foundation of a private house from the damaging effects of groundwater and storm water is a high-quality drainage system. What is especially important when water accumulates in the upper layers of the soil, as it can provoke flooding of the basement or basement, moistening and deformation of the walls, as well as the occurrence of fungal formations. The article will discuss how to lay drainage pipes.

Pipes for the drainage system, which are installed around the entire perimeter of the site, allow you to create a high-quality drainage system. After all, the danger of flooding is not only groundwater, but also floodwaters. Damage can also be caused by precipitation that exceeds permissible limits.

Drainage pipe photo

Unlike foundation waterproofing, the drainage system can be laid even after the construction of the house, if there are grounds for this. But under certain conditions, it is better to install at the initial stage of construction. This requires the following reasons:

the gently sloping location of the site, contributing to a significant accumulation of water;
clay and loamy soil, which have poor culvert characteristics;
statistics of exceeding the level of precipitation characteristic of the area in which the building is located;
elevated groundwater level (less than 1.5 meters to the ground surface).

In addition, it is worth focusing on the depth of construction of the remaining buildings on the site. The presence of a deep foundation next to the main building not only prevents the natural outflow of groundwater, but also contributes to its accumulation, thereby increasing the risk of flooding. The barrier for free circulation of water are also equipped on the site concrete blind areas and asphalt pavement. In such a case, it is considered competent to connect storm drains to the main drainage system.

To prevent the consequences of changes in the level of groundwater and the accumulation of moisture in the soil around the building, laying a drainage pipe will allow.

Types of drainage systems

There are two main options for designing a drainage system:

Open (surface)- used to remove excess moisture that has arisen due to the accumulation of precipitation or melt water. The open drainage system is presented in the form of ditches and trenches.
Closed (deep)- in laying pipes with perforation are used, which are laid to a certain depth in a previously prepared trench. The main function is to drain groundwater and protect the foundation of the house.

Materials required for laying a closed drainage system

The process of installing a drainage system is quite laborious and requires thorough preparation. From bulk building materials will need:

Sand. In drainage works, river sand is mainly used. Its main function is to create a filtration cushion around the drainage pipe.
rubble. To equip the system, you will need a medium and large fraction. The purpose of crushed stone is to form a stable layer to prevent the penetration of dirt and large parts of the soil. In addition, crushed stone prevents excessive soil pressure on the corrugated pipe.

drainage pumps. They are used only in case of significant flooding of the site with groundwater. Contribute to mechanical drainage;
drainage pipes. With their help, the main drainage system is formed. The number and diameter depends on the complexity of the bookmark scheme. Most often, plastic pipes are used for drainage;
geotextile- protects the drainage pipe from soil contamination. As a rule, interlining or dornite is used. In addition to strength, both types of textiles have a filtering ability;
couplers- necessary for attaching drainage pipes to each other.

As a rule, the drainage system needs periodic cleaning; for this, manholes are installed along its perimeter. And to collect water in the system, a collector well is mounted.

Selection of drainage pipes

Before starting the installation of the drainage system, special attention should be paid to the choice of pipes for work. The first thing to consider is the use of perforated pipes in the arrangement of the drainage system. The second is the diameter and the presence of holes for the outflow of moisture and air exchange. And no less important point is the material from which the pipes are made.

Currently, the following types of pipes are presented on the building materials market:

The most popular in the arrangement of the drainage system are polymer drainage pipes. Their advantage over other species is as follows.

Long service life - up to 70 years.
High levels of strength.
Resistance to corrosion processes and exposure to aggressive environments.
Reduced weight indicators that simplify the process of transportation and installation.
Self-cleaning ability due to smooth surface.
Silt resistance.
Value for money.
Ease of maintenance. Thanks to the geotextile filter, the system does not need to be flushed.

Drain pipe diameter:

up to 150 mm - for a drainage system that drains a small amount of water;
up to 300 mm - for systems with a high load.

For an extensive drainage system, you will need pipes of both small (for branches) and large diameter (for the main branch of the system).

Plastic drainage pipes

Polymer pipes, which are usually used for laying drainage systems, are made of PVC, polypropylene or polyethylene and are represented by the following types:

single layer or double layer. The choice of the number of layers depends on the density of the soil;
flexible and rigid. Rigid pipes are applicable for simple circuits drainage, while flexible ones allow you to create complex branching throughout the site;
pipes with or without filter jacket. As a rule, drainage pipes already have holes along their entire length. But if there are no special holes in the purchased material, you can make them yourself with a drill and a thin drill;
corrugated or smooth.

As for geofabric coverage, as a rule, samples already covered with filter textiles are presented on the building materials market. When buying uncoated pipes, their surface can be wrapped independently by securing the material with a rope or thin wire around the perimeter of the pipe.

Drainage pipe laying design

Before starting work on the installation of a drainage system, it is worthwhile to first draw up a plan for its location on the site.

This requires taking into account the type of soil and the height of groundwater. The branched scheme is most often used, at the junctions of which manholes are installed.
The distance between the branches directly depends on the type of soil. For clay soil, it is 10 meters, for loamy soil - 20 meters, with sandy soil type - 45 meters.

Laying drainage pipes with your own hands

First you need to determine the location of the drainage system. There are only two accommodation options:

"wall" drainage - passes only near the foundation of the house and prevents moisture from entering directly into the building itself;

a drainage system located around the entire perimeter of the site protects not only the basement of the building, but also other outbuildings and plantings located on the territory.

The first step is to mark the site for the placement of drainage ditches. To facilitate the process, you can use a special laser rangefinder. Particular attention should be paid to places where moisture accumulates after rain - this means that water exchange is difficult in this area due to the density of the soil or the presence of obstacles.
Trench. The recess under the drainage trench must be carried out taking into account the height differences. The main task of the prepared ditch system is the rapid and unhindered outflow of water.

Tip: during work, you can use the water hose by running a certain amount of water - make sure that in separate parts trenches do not accumulate water.

Before installing drainage pipes, the bottom of the trench must be carefully tamped. Then any filter material is laid, while its ends should extend beyond the trench. Next, river sand and crushed stone are poured, first large, then medium fraction, to a thickness of no more than 20 cm.
Drainage pipes are cut according to the dimensions of the scheme, using a jigsaw or a special device - a pipe cutter. Next, start laying pipes, connecting the joints with fittings. In order for the junction to be strong, it is necessary to dock the parts after preheating the docking sections.
Pipes must be carefully wrapped with geotextile, securing the joints with a rope or thin wire. The choice of such a material is not accidental, since it must pass the water coming out of the perforation. In addition to the throughput, the function of geotextiles is to protect the perforations of the pipe from clogging.

Pipe laying must be done at a slope, connecting the ends to manholes. Two types of wells can be used in the system: sealed, allowing the use of collected water for technical purposes, and absorbing - the water will go back into the soil. The slope of the drainage pipes depends on its diameter, the larger it is, the less slope is needed.
The next step in the installation of drainage pipes will be filling the surface with crushed stone and sand. After that, the structure is wrapped with sheets of filter material located on the surface and covered with a layer of soil.

Maintenance of the drainage system

In arranging the site with a drainage system, not only its thoughtful and high-quality installation is important, but also compliance with the operating rules. This will extend the life of the system for as long as possible.

Approximately once every four years, it is mandatory to inspect the condition of pipes and wells, as a preventive measure. In addition, once every two years it is worth measuring the water level in the wells, its significant change may indicate the following factors:

damage to the integrity of the pipe;
the formation of a dense blockage;
the growth of silt deposits on the entire surface of the pipe;
partial settlement of the pipeline due to soil movement.

In order to avoid such problems, it is necessary to timely inspect the drainage system and clean it from various kinds of pollution.

Errors in the laying of the drainage pipe

The effectiveness of drainage directly depends on the quality of the installation. Any violations during operation contribute to the disabling of the system. In the best case, you can repair the damaged area, in the worst case, you will have to completely reinstall the drainage system.

The most common mistakes include:

selection of the pipeline system without taking into account the quality of the soil. For example: on loamy soil it is not recommended to use pipes without a filtration system;
violations associated with a change or absence of the angle of inclination of the drainage system;
initially, the option of draining water from the well was not provided;
the technology for arranging drainage pipes is not observed - the installation was made without filtering dumping of crushed stone and sand;
lack of geotextiles and filter material;
poor-quality soldering of pipes;
no perforation.

Choosing the type of drainage system, it is necessary to be based on the location of the site and the quality of the soil. For self-arrangement of drainage, it is necessary to plan in advance the layout of the drainage. When choosing materials, preference should be given to the most practical and durable. These include plastic corrugated pipes with perforation. Observing all the stages of laying the drainage system, you can get a high-quality drainage system. In addition, drainage guarantees the protection of the basement or basement of the house from the harmful effects of groundwater.

Laying a drainage pipe: step by step instructions, Construction Portal

The drainage pipe is the main component of the drainage system, which in turn is a structure designed to collect and drain filtered rain, melt and groundwater. Rain and melt water cause unwanted groundwater rise, increasing the destructive impact on building foundations and landscape design elements.

The use of drainage pipes effectively protects the house from damage associated

With high humidity, mold formation and permafrost, prevents flooding

cellars, the formation of puddles and spring ice on footpaths, prevents rotting of garden plants due to excess moisture in summer cottages and garden plots.

Drainage pipes are corrugated perforated pipes with stiffeners and a large number of rational small holes located in the wave cavity (corrugations). The stiffening ribs make it possible to evenly distribute the soil pressure along the entire length of the pipe and perceive additional loads that arise. These pipes are designed for laying to a depth of 0.7 to 6 meters. The stiffening ribs make it possible to evenly distribute pressure throughout the pipe and absorb additional loads that arise. Drainage pipes are designed for laying to a depth of 6 meters. The presence of a large number of small holes of a special profile for one running meter The product contributes to a faster collection, passage and removal of excess water from the drained area.

The presence of a large number of optimally located small holes of a special profile along the entire length of the pipe contributes to a faster collection, passage and removal of excess water from the site. Due to its low weight - (a coil 50 meters long and with an optimal diameter of 110 mm weighs only 25 kg.) - installation and transportation are carried out without special

Also, one of the advantages of these pipes is their high corrosion resistance in aggressive groundwater. The service life of a drainage system made of polymers, with proper operation, is 50 years or more.

Efficient drainage prevents groundwater from rising too high at the base of the house, protecting the building from damage caused by moisture, mold and frost. If it is required that the drainage work in the cold season, it should be laid at a depth exceeding the freezing depth of the soil. Specialists

think that for middle lane Russia almost always needs drainage.

Drainage flexible corrugated pipes made of polyethylene with a filter are used for

the creation of melioration systems (drainage), to protect buildings or sites from excessive

moisture, seasonal rise of groundwater. Drainage is an extensive system

of interconnected pipes located around or into the system, water flowing down the ground enters.

Each pipe (specialists call it a drain) has a network of holes (perforation) on its walls. They are at the same distance from each other. Drainage can be laid both before and after waterproofing the foundation and basement, but strictly before the general backfilling of the outer side

foundation. The water collected through pipes enters the collector (transport network), and then into the water intake well or into the water intake (river, stream, ravine). Sometimes water from a water intake well is pumped out by a pump into the nearest ditch, ditch or sewer well. As a result of well-executed drainage, the level of groundwater decreases, fertility improves, drained soil is easier to prepare for sowing, and such land also accepts fertilizers better.

DRAINAGE- this is a system of underground channels, called drains, through which groundwater is drained from building structures and its level is lowered, as well as land is drained for the cultivation of agricultural products. Water from the drainage network is discharged outside the drained area into the water intake. Thus, a drain is an artificial watercourse in the soil for collecting and draining groundwater (usually underground). Drainage systems are used in agriculture, forestry, landscaping and construction projects.

Where are RUVINIL drainage systems used? ?

Building

The foundation of any building structures, even at a shallow depth of 1.5-2 m, is exposed to groundwater. The composition of groundwater includes components that have destructive properties. Even waterproofing does not protect in this situation. A high level of groundwater leads to the destruction of building foundations, flooding of basements, the appearance of fungal formations, etc. When constructing roads, sidewalks and open flat areas, it is also necessary to take into account the characteristics and degree of soil moisture.

Land reclamation and agriculture

High groundwater levels lead to rotting and freezing fruit trees, the occurrence of fungal diseases of plants and waterlogging of the area. If it is necessary to drain swamps and waterlogged areas, it is effective to use polyethylene corrugated pipes, which provide a quick and cheap laying of the drainage system. The drainage system, mounted even on flat areas with the help of a drainage pipe, removes the backwater of groundwater and significantly reduces their level.

Classification of soil types

crushed stone soil	sandy soil	Clay soil	Mixed soil (loamy type)
Can be used drainage pipe perforated without filter material.	used drainage pipe with filter from nonwoven fabric- geotextiles; it is also necessary to make a backfill of crushed stone around the pipe.

Can the owner of the site lay the drainage system himself?

Laying drainage is not difficult if you have auxiliary tools (shovel, water level and rope). The pipes are very light - so a coil 50 meters long with a diameter of 110 mm weighs only about 25 kg. Drainage work on the site is usually carried out in conjunction with activities for its development. To remove excess moisture from the soil, it is necessary to ensure the maximum flow of water to the drainage pipeline. The factor that determines the access of water to pipes is the permeability of the soil. Increasing water permeability is achieved by backfilling drainage pipelines with filtration materials such as crushed stone, pebbles, gravel, etc. The presence of a filter also helps to increase the volume of water collected by the system. To prevent the network from silting up, the speed of water flow in the pipe must be at least 0.2 meters per second. This speed is ensured by the corresponding minimum pipe laying slope - 1 centimeter per 2 meters of pipeline length. The main condition for effective drainage of the site is the creation of a guaranteed possibility of draining water by gravity into a street ditch, ravine, decorative or natural reservoir or well (tank), storm sewer, etc. When constructing drainage systems, wells are used, both made of reinforced concrete and polymeric materials, specially designed for these purposes, which can significantly reduce the amount of excavation work and save significant money.

Methods for laying drainage systems

There are two main approaches to the construction of drainage systems:

Surface method - it is based on the planning of the territory, including work on creating slopes from buildings, installing a drainage network with upland ditches to intercept water, pits and trenches;
Deep method - the removal of groundwater directly from the area of \u200b\u200blocation of structures using pipes for drainage and wells. In modern summer cottages and cottage plots, as a rule, they practice combined method drainage that does not disturb the appearance of the territory and allows the use of the soil above the drainage systems for planting plants or arranging lawns.

Typical mistakes when laying drainage pipes

The most typical errors in the construction of the drainage system are:

The use of pipes that are not intended for laying in a certain type of soil (for example: a pipe without a filter was laid in loamy soils),

Drainage water supply is laid without filter coating;

Not met minimum slopes at the device of a drainage;

The trenches are not covered with filter soil;

For various reasons, timely removal of excess water from the collection well is not carried out.

To ensure the effective operation of the drainage system, the choice should be carefully made:

Pipe diameter. The choice of the internal diameter of the drainage pipes depends on the area to be drained. The more inner diameter pipes, the higher its throughput. Drainage with geotextile is usually used in sandy and mixed soils, and in coarse soils, a pipe without geotextile can be used.

Type of pipes (with geotextile, without geotextile). Drainage with geotextile is usually used in sandy and mixed soils, and in coarse soils, a pipe without geotextile can be used.

Depth of laying pipes;

Pipe angle.

For this you need:

Know the vertical layout of the site;

Determine the level of groundwater (this requires hydrogeological surveys to a depth of 3-4 meters);

Set the type of soil (see the table “Classification of soil types”).

Such an integrated approach to solving the problem of drainage gives a positive result in determining measures to protect the fertile soil layer and structures.

A layer of sand is poured into specially dug trenches, then a layer of rubble (at least 20 cm high). The width of the trench along the bottom is equal to the outer diameter of the pipeline plus 40 cm. In cross section, the trench can have a rectangular or trapezoidal shape. The bottom of the trench must be free of hard lumps, bricks, stones, etc. (which can push through the bottom wall of the pipe laid on top of them).

A drainage pipe is laid on top of the rubble layer. The upper part is covered with backfill - a layer of crushed stone (at least 20 cm), and then again with a layer of sand. The outer part of the soil is covered with turf. Layer Sequence
is significant because not crushed stone, but sand should be turned to water. A cushion of sand and gravel at the bottom of the trench acts as a filter-shock absorber and allows you to maintain a slope for gravity water flow. Backfilling with crushed stone and sand (blanket) is a filter layer and protection of the drainage pipe from mechanical damage. The purpose of the filter is to pass water and prevent small soil particles from entering the drainage pipe. Otherwise, drainage holes quickly become clogged and the system will have to be cleaned.

In order to ensure normal operation, drainage pipes are laid to a frost-free depth (at least 80 cm).

The minimum slope of the drainage pipe towards the drainage well or natural watercourse according to building codes is:

3 mm per 1 linear meter in clay and loamy soils; (slope not less than 3 degrees)

5 mm per 1 linear meter - in sand.

Often in practice for good flow waters make a slope of 10 mm per 1 lin. m. At the same time, the water flow rate should not be high (no more than 1 meter per second).

For maintenance of drainage systems, it is necessary to install manholes in straight sections at least every 50 meters, as well as in places of turns, intersections and changes in the angles of inclination of drainage pipes.

The drainage network is discharged into an open reservoir through an outlet pipe with a grate valve, or into a storm sewer through an outlet pipe with a check valve.

In the conditions of garden and summer cottages, it is advisable to lay drainage around the house (at a distance of 0.5-1 m) and divert water into the nearest ditch, any natural reservoir or well. Depending on the dimensions of the site and the level of groundwater, it is possible to make additional drainage (for example, along the perimeter of the site).

In cross section, the trench may have a rectangular or trapezoidal shape. The bottom of the trench should not contain solid lumps, brick, stone, construction waste, which can push through the bottom wall of the pipe laid on them.

Couplings and tees are used for building and joining drainage pipes with each other.

The most common drainage system is laid in the form of a "herringbone", i.e., a network of the same drainage pipes-collectors is fed into a large drainage pipe-collector from both sides. Through a drainage pipe-collector, groundwater flows by gravity into a storm sewer or a roadside ditch. In the case when the places of water discharge are above the level of the site, a drainage well is required, from which water is removed using a pump.

Pipeline installation is carried out at a temperature environment down to minus 10 degrees.

Together with drainage work, it is advisable to carry out the installation of engineering networks, ranging from the equipment of septic tanks (for domestic sewage) and wells (wells) to tracing electrical cables to the points of connection of street lamps. As cable routes, you can use a double-walled corrugated pipe.

Maintenance and repair of drainage systems

Maintenance and timely repair of drainage pipelines greatly contribute to their efficient operation for the entire estimated life.

The operation of drainages is carried out by control and supervision services, whose task is to:

Periodic inspection of drainage devices;

Troubleshooting;

Systematic monitoring of the position of the groundwater level in the drained area in order to establish the effectiveness of the drainage;

Drainage water quality control;

Carrying out preventive and current repairs, elimination of accidents.

Clogged filter holes.

All products of CJSC "RUVINIL" are certified

Building a house is a responsible and very costly undertaking. Naturally, any owner wants the erected building to last as long as possible. And for this it is necessary to protect the foundation of the house from the destructive action of groundwater, that is, to build drainage. Consider how do-it-yourself drainage pipes are laid, what materials are used for this, and what nuances must be taken into account when doing this work.

The construction of drainage seems to many an optional event. In fact, protection from groundwater is very important. Properly built drainage helps keep basement damp and prevent the destruction of the materials from which the foundation of the house is built.

In addition, a drainage device may be necessary in a personal plot or in a country house, if high-lying waters interfere with the growth of trees and shrubs. Consider the main points of the construction of drainage systems.

What is drainage?

Before describing the construction technology, it is worth understanding what drainage is and in what cases its construction is necessary. So, drainage is a pipe system that is used to divert soil water from the foundation of a building, as well as to drain the site. When is drainage necessary?

If a building is being built that will have a basement.
If the site is initially swampy, or it has heavy and poorly water-permeable soils.
If it is planned to make changes to the natural relief of the site - to level the sites, build artificial hills, etc.

Where to begin?

First of all, it is necessary to find out how deep the soil water is. This can be done by studying the water level in nearby wells. The well, which is dug to a depth of 5-15 meters, is filled just to the level of groundwater. In addition, from the marks on the concrete walls of the well, one can understand how high the water rises during the flood period.

Advice! The ideal solution for determining the level of soil water occurrence is a geodetic examination by a specialist.

Next, you need to decide on the type of drainage. The easiest way, of course, is to build an open drainage, that is, just dig trenches with a slope. However, such a solution will not decorate the site, so most owners choose a more time-consuming construction option.

Selection of materials for construction

About 30 years ago, there was no special choice of pipes for the construction of drainage systems. I had to use asbestos-cement or ceramic pipes, before laying in ditches, it was necessary to make many holes so that water could freely penetrate into them. Today, there are more convenient and available materials- corrugated pipes made of polymeric materials, which already have a ready-made perforation.

Advice! On sale you can find drainage pipes with geotextiles or coconut fiber. These materials provide additional filtration and prevent clogging of the drainage system.

The process of installing a drainage system requires serious labor and preliminary preparation of the material. For construction you will need:

Sand. To create a drainage system, it is necessary to use river sand. It is used to create a cushion at the bottom of the ditch, this is necessary in order to exclude damage to structures due to soil movements.
Rubble. To equip the system, two types of crushed stone are required. Used material of medium and large fractions. The main purpose of crushed stone is to create a filter layer and prevent various debris contained in the water from entering the drains. In addition, crushed stone prevents damage to drainage pipes during soil movements.

Geotextile. This is a material made of synthetic threads, it is used to wrap a drainage layer of crushed stone. The use of this material additionally protects the laid pipes from silting.
Fitting. Couplings are used to connect pipes, corners are used to ensure turns.

Advantages of plastic pipes

pipes are characterized by increased strength, they are laid to a considerable depth - up to 10 meters.
The service life of polymer pipes is at least 50 years.
Connections are easy to make yourself using couplings
They are easy to transport, unload and mount, as they are quite light.
To cut plastic pipes, you do not need to use a special tool.

Advice! To prevent clogging of pipes with soil particles, additional filters are used - geotextile or coconut fiber material.

For the installation of the system, pipes of different diameters are used, most often used:

150 mm - for systems that drain a small amount of water;
300 mm - for systems operating with increased load.

For installation of the system, two types of pipes are used: a larger section is used for the main line, and a smaller one is used for branches. Plastic pipes for the installation of drainage systems can be:

Single or double layer. The second option is more durable, it is suitable for laying in heavy soils.
Flexible and rigid. The first option is ideal for mounting simple systems. If a network with a large number of turns and branches is being installed, it is more profitable to use flexible pipes.

Smooth and corrugated. Last option is more durable.
With and without shell. The choice depends on the quality of the soil. In crushed stone soil, pipes without a sheath can be laid. In sandy - it is better to lay wrapped with geotextiles. If there is clay on the site, then perfect choice there will be pipes with a filter made of coir (coconut fiber).

Installation of drainage systems

Consider how the installation of drainage is carried out, and what are the nuances of laying pipes.

Planning

At the first stage, a scheme for laying drainage pipes should be drawn up. In carrying out this work, a preliminary geodetic examination of the site will greatly help, as a result of which the types of soil and the level of groundwater location will be clarified. Based on the results of the examination, the diameters of the pipes are selected, as well as the depth of their laying.

Advice! Drawing up a drainage scheme and making calculations, it is desirable to entrust specialists.

Laying

How should pipes be laid in a ditch?

A layer of sand 15 cm high is poured into the trenches dug to the required depth.
A geotextile is laid over the sand so that the edges of the canvas cover the sides of the ditch.
A layer of fine gravel is poured onto the geotextile.
On top of the rubble, pipes are laid with perforation down.
When laying pipes, it is necessary to maintain a slope directed towards the collection well. The size of the slope is at least 3 degrees.

In order to be able to control the operation of the system and, if necessary, flush it, you need to plan the installation of manholes. The minimum distance between wells is 50 meters. In addition, wells should be placed at the places where the pipeline turns or when its angle of inclination changes.
The choice of filter is carried out depending on the type of soil. If these are light sandy loams or loams, then it is worth using pipes wrapped with geotextiles. In heavy soils, it is more profitable to use pipes wrapped in coconut fiber cloth.
Crushed stone is poured over the laid pipes, as a rule, the thickness of the top backfill is 40 cm.
From above, the crushed stone layer is covered with geotextile, which was previously fixed on the sides of the trench.
From above, the trenches are covered with soil and covered with pre-cut turf.

Mistakes that should not be made

Wrong selection. For example, in loamy soils, pipes without a filter cannot be used.
Unrestrained bias.
Wrong choice of location for the installation of a prefabricated well or untimely removal of water from it.

So, the drainage system is a necessary element to protect the house and site from excess soil moisture. When installing drainage, it is extremely important to correctly develop its scheme and perform installation in strict accordance with the technology. Errors made during installation will lead to the fact that the water from the foundation will not be fully discharged, that is, the efficiency of the system will be reduced.

Contrary to popular belief, moisture may not always be a plant's best friend. Too much water is often bad for most of them. Excess moisture is not good for buildings either. It has a destructive effect on various materials the buildings. Therefore, each owner of a suburban or summer cottage ( garden plots) it is important to take excess water from your own territory.

The most effective way to protect the foundation of a private house from the destructive effects of storm and groundwater is a concrete installation. What is especially important when water accumulates in the upper layers of the earth, since it can provoke flooding of the basement or basement, moistening and further deformation of the walls, as well as the appearance of fungal formations.

Here we will talk about how to find how to do the laying of drainage pipes with your own hands.

Pipes for drainage systems, which are installed around the entire perimeter of the site in the country, make it possible to create a completely high-quality drainage system.

After all, the danger of flooding is borne not only by groundwater, but also by floods. Damage can also be caused by various atmospheric precipitation that exceeds the permissible limits.

Installation factors:

The gentle location of the site (on a slope), which contributes to a large accumulation of water.
Loamy and clay soil, which have very weak culvert properties.
Elevated level of location of drainage groundwater.

Varieties of drainage systems

What are the types of installation? There are currently two main installation options:

Open or surface - used to remove excess moisture that occurs due to the accumulation of melt water or precipitation. Laying of this type is presented in the form of trenches and ditches (pipes in a ditch).
Closed or deep - in laying, round and flat perforated drainage pipes (drainage pipes with perforation) are used, which are laid to the required depth in a previously prepared trench (laying depth is different). The main function is the removal of groundwater, as well as the protection of the foundation of the house.

Materials that are necessary for laying a closed system

From bulk building materials you will need:

Sand. River sand is used in drainage works. Its main function is to create a special filter pad.
Rubble. The purpose of crushed stone is to form a stable layer to prevent the penetration of large parts of soil and dirt.

Main materials:

Pumps. They are used exclusively in case of severe flooding of the site with groundwater.
Drain pipe.
Geotextile - protects against soil pollution.
Couplings - are needed for fastening laid underground pipes to each other.

Basically, the system in the ground needs regular cleaning. To do this, manholes are installed along its perimeter. To collect deep water, a collector well is installed in the system.

Selection of drainage pipes

Before installing the system, great attention should be paid to the selection of perforated drainage pipes for work.

The first thing to consider is the use of perforated drainage pipes in the arrangement of the drainage system. The second is the diameter and the presence of holes for the outflow of moisture, as well as air exchange.

Not less than important nuance is the material from which round or flat drainage pipes are made. To date, the building materials market includes the following types:

Asbestos-cement.
From ceramics.
Polymer.

The most popular in the arrangement of the drainage system are polymer drainage pipes and their check valve. Their advantage is as follows.

Quite a long period of use - up to seventy years.
High strength indicators (check valve).
Resistance to corrosion and hostile environment.
Reduced weight indicators, simplifying the process of transportation, installation.
Ability to self-cleaning, due to the smooth surface.
Silt resistance.
Value for money.
Ease of maintenance. Due to the geotextile filter, the system does not need to be flushed.

Up to 150 mm - for a system that removes a small amount of water.
Up to 300 mm - for systems with a large load.

For a branched system, pipes will be required for both small (for branches) and large diameter (for the main branch of the system).

plastic pipes

Polymer types and their non-return valve, which are mainly used for laying drainage systems in the ground, are made of PVC, polyethylene or polypropylene and are represented by such varieties:

Single layer or double layer. The choice of the number of layers depends on the density of the soil.
Rigid and flexible drainage pipes (high flexibility). Rigid drainage pipes of large diameter are used for simple schemes, while flexible ones allow you to create a very complex branching throughout the site.
Types with or without filter casing. Basically, they already have special holes along the entire length. However, if there are no holes in the purchased material, then they can be made independently using a thin drill or drill.
Smooth and corrugated.

If we talk about geo fabric, then the building materials market often has samples already covered with filter textiles (quality fabric). When purchasing uncoated systems, their surface can be easily wrapped by yourself, securing the material with a thin wire or rope around the perimeter.

Pipe laying design

Before starting work on installing the minimum system, you must first draw up a plan for its location on the site.

To lay the system, you need to take into account the type of soil, as well as the height of groundwater. The branched scheme is most often used, at the junctions of which manholes are installed.
The distance between the drainage branches depends on the type of soil. For clay soil it is 10 m, for loamy soil it is 20 m, and for sandy soil it is 45 m.

Laying drainage pipes yourself

How to lay drainage pipes correctly?

First you need to determine the location of the drainage pipes. There are two types of accommodation:

"Wall" drainage - passes only near the foundation of the house, prevents moisture from entering the building itself.
Drainage pipe laying, which is located around the entire perimeter of the site. It protects not only the basement of the building, but also other outbuildings, plantings, which are located on the territory.

Work stages

The first step is to mark the area for the placement of ditches. To facilitate the process, you can use a laser rangefinder. Particular attention should be paid to places where moisture accumulates after rain. This means that water exchange is difficult in this area due to the presence of obstacles or the density of the soil.
Trench. The recess under the trench should be laid taking into account the height differences. The main task of the prepared ditch system is the unhindered and rapid outflow of water.
Before installation, the bottom of the trench should be well tamped. After that, a special filter material is laid. Its ends must necessarily go beyond the trench. Then river sand and crushed stone are poured to a thickness of not more than 20 cm.
The drainage pipe is cut according to the dimensions of the scheme. When you figured out the size, you can start laying, connecting the joints with the help of fittings.
Pipes must be carefully wrapped with geotextile, securing the joints with a rope or thin wire, and only then can they be laid. In addition to the throughput, the function of the geotextile is to protect the perforations of the perforated drainage pipe from clogging.
Laying must be carried out under a slope, attaching the ends to the manholes. Two types of wells can be used in the system: sealed, allowing the use of water for technical purposes, and absorbing - the water will go back into the soil. The slope of the drainage pipe depends on its diameter, the larger it is, the less slope is required.
The next installation step will be backfilling with crushed stone and sand on the surface. After that, the structure is wrapped with sheets of filter material located on the surface and covered with a layer of soil. How deep to dig? Everything is individual.

System Maintenance

In arranging the site with a drainage system, it is extremely important not only its high-quality and well-thought-out laying, but also compliance with all operating rules. This will extend the period of operation of the system for a sufficiently long period.

Every two years it is necessary to measure, its significant change may indicate such factors:

Damage to the integrity of a running system.
The formation of a dense blockage.
The growth of silt deposits on the surface.

To avoid such problems, one must not ignore the rules, timely inspect the drainage system and clean it from any contaminants.

(Drainage of the site - do-it-yourself drainage pipe)

Common mistakes

Laying drainage pipes with your own hands must be carried out in accordance with all requirements. This also applies to the selection of installations, which should be suitable for the type of soil. For example, if you have loamy soil in your area, you cannot use systems that do not have a filter.

So, among the most popular mistakes that are made when laying a system around the house with your own hands, today there are:

Wrong type of system.
During installation, the angle of inclination, which is accepted for laying the system, is not respected.
There is no water outlet from the collection well.
Incorrect do-it-yourself laying technology, that is, a filter bed consisting of gravel and sand was not made.

If a building is being built that will have a basement.
If the site is initially swampy, or it has heavy and poorly water-permeable soils.
If it is planned to make changes to the natural relief of the site - to level the sites, build artificial hills, etc.

Where to begin?

Advice! The ideal solution for determining the level of soil water occurrence is a geodetic examination by a specialist.

We select materials for construction

Today, there are more convenient and affordable materials - corrugated pipes made of polymeric materials, which already have ready-made perforations.

The main advantages of using plastic pipes

Corrugated pipes are characterized by increased strength, they can be laid to a considerable depth - up to 10 meters.
The service life of polymer pipes is at least 50 years.
Plastic pipe connections are easy to make yourself using couplings
Pipes are easy to transport, unload and install, as they are quite light.
To cut plastic pipes, you do not need to use a special tool.

Advice! To prevent clogging of pipes with soil particles, additional filters are used - geotextile or coconut fiber material.

Installation of drainage systems

Consider how the installation of drainage is carried out, and what are the nuances of laying pipes.

Planning

Advice! Drawing up a drainage scheme and making calculations, it is desirable to entrust specialists.

Pipe laying

A layer of sand 15 cm high is poured into the trenches dug to the required depth.
A geotextile is laid over the sand so that the edges of the canvas cover the sides of the ditch.
A layer of fine gravel is poured onto the geotextile.
On top of the rubble, pipes are laid with perforation down.
When laying pipes, it is necessary to maintain a slope directed towards the collection well. Slope size - not less than 3 degrees
In order to be able to control the operation of the system and, if necessary, flush it, you need to plan the installation of manholes. The minimum distance between wells is 50 meters. In addition, wells should be placed at the places where the pipeline turns or when its angle of inclination changes.
The choice of filter for the pipe is carried out depending on the type of soil. If these are light sandy loams or loams, then it is worth using pipes wrapped with geotextiles. In heavy soils, it is more profitable to use pipes wrapped in coconut fiber cloth.
Crushed stone is poured over the laid pipes, as a rule, the thickness of the top backfill is 40 cm.
From above, the crushed stone layer is covered with geotextile, which was previously fixed on the sides of the trench.
From above, the trenches are covered with soil and covered with pre-cut turf.

Mistakes that should not be made

Incorrect selection of pipes. For example, in loamy soils, pipes without a filter cannot be used.
Incorrect pipe slope.
Wrong choice of location for the installation of a prefabricated well or untimely removal of water from it.

And now a shorter, but capacious guide to the competent laying of drainage pipes:

Drainage pipes are laid in trenches with a depth of 0.7-1.6 m, expanding upwards at an angle of 10-20 °; the width of their bottom is 30-40 cm. If it is known that water will flow to the drainage pipe only from above and from the sides, the pipe wrapped with geotextile can be placed immediately at the bottom of the trench. Although, to level the surface and create the desired slope, a sand cushion is more often made. If the drainage pipe collects water from all sides, a return filter must be poured under it, consisting of a layer of sand (5-10 cm) and a layer of crushed stone (5 cm). Sometimes a return filter is constructed only from sand. Its task is to trap fine dusty and clay particles that can clog the drainage pipe. Less water flows from the bottom than from the side and top, so the return filter should not be too thick. A drainage pipe is laid on it (or immediately on the bottom, as in the first case), surrounded by a volumetric filter - some kind of protective filtering material: geofabric of a certain density or coconut fiber.

Filters for drainage pipes are selected depending on the type of soil. In "difficult" conditions, when pipes are laid in clay soils, a coconut fiber filter works best. Several foreign companies, such as Wavin, Uponor, supply pipes already wrapped with coconut filter material. Their cost is about two to three times higher than the cost of similar drainage pipes without filters. For light loams and sandy loams (lighter soils, with a lower content of clay particles), bulk geotextiles are used. This is a fairly thick (2-4 mm) non-woven or needle-punched material weighing 250-450 g/m2. Its filtering capacity is lower than that of coconut fibre. On sandy soils, thin filters, fiberglass and other similar materials weighing 150-250 g/m2 can be used.

The drainage pipe wrapped in a filter is covered with rubble to about 1/3-1/4 of the trench depth. Now, crushed stone of the middle fraction (about 20-40 mm) is taken for backfilling, while theoretically it is more competent to do this: the first layer is crushed stone of a large fraction (40-70 mm), the second layer is of a medium fraction, the third is fine (less than 20 mm). Usually, the thickness of the top backfill is about 40 cm. The minimum layer capable of ensuring the optimal mode of water penetration into the drainage pipe is 20 cm. A layer of geotextile is laid over the crushed stone to prevent mixing of the crushed stone and the bulk materials located above - sand (layer 5-10 cm thick) and fertile soil(15-20 cm). To make the system work more reliably, the volumetric gravel filter is sometimes also placed in a protective casing made of geotextile, the cost of which is about 30 rubles. for 1 m2. Such expenses are often justified when compared with the costs of maintaining the system. Sometimes the pipe itself in this case is not wrapped in geofabric, however, such a system will clog faster and the likelihood of mud plugs in it is higher.

The depth of the trenches and, accordingly, the location of the drainage pipes depends on the type of soil, the level of groundwater and what will grow in the drained area. For mineral soils, the optimal trench depth is from 60-80 to 120-150 cm. Please note that a groundwater level of 60-80 cm is quite acceptable for lawns and flower beds, about 90 cm for forest trees, 120-150 cm - for fruit trees. When drained, groundwater will be set at a level of approximately 0.7-0.9 of the depth of the drainage pipes. By the way, according to experts, for the free development of an apple tree, this depth should be 2-2.5 m, cherries and plums - 1.5-2 m, berry bushes (currants, gooseberries, raspberries) - 1-1.5 m. peat soils, all trenches should be a little deeper - 100-160 cm, since peat continuously "sits down" throughout its "life". This is due to three reasons: the surface settles above the drainage pipe; a layer settles under the drainage pipe; peat decomposes into substances that become water-soluble and are washed out.

The depth of the drainage pipes is determined taking into account another factor - the location of the aquiclude. This is the name of the layer of impermeable rocks that limit the aquifer. If the aquiclude is located close to the surface of the earth (for example, at a depth of 70 cm), then the pipe is laid to a depth not exceeding this distance. Water will come to it only from the side and from above. To the drainage pipe, which lies inside the aquifer, water flows from all sides - of course, if there are perforations around the entire circumference of the pipe. An example of water-resistant horizons is heavy loamy and clayey soils with a low filtration coefficient: water passes through them very poorly or does not pass at all. An example of aquifers is sandy and sandy loam.

The minimum slope of drainage pipes required for normal water flow is 0.003, that is, 3 mm per 1 m of length. In practice, it is increased to 0.005. If the natural slope of the soil is significant, then it can reach 0.01-0.02. However, it is not recommended to make the slope large - the water should leave smoothly and evenly. Drainage should always be carried out taking into account the relief, so as not to argue with nature.

The spacing of the drainage pipes depends on the type of soil. On heavy soils, clay and loamy, pipes are located more often: at a distance of 4-5 to 12-15 m from each other. On light soils, sandy and sandy - less often, after 20-30 m. On average, it is believed that a drainage pipe 1 m long drains an area of 10-20 m2. To drain sports and playgrounds, the gap between the pipes is halved. Do not plant trees closer than 2 m to the right and left of the drainage pipe. Bushes (for example, lilacs) are recommended to be planted, maintaining a distance of 1 m.