Brick oven-heater of periodic action. Batch Sauna Stove with Turbo Brick Sauna Stove

29.08.2019

This article is devoted to the consideration of the main features of brick sauna stove permanent action "RusSauna" developed by Igor Viktorovich Kuznetsov, distinguishing it from other bathing stoves of constant action of this author .

Therefore, here we only briefly list these features.

Most of the brick ovens of I.V. Kuznetsov have the following distinctive features:

kilns by I.V. Kuznetsov- these are bell-type furnaces, working on the principle of free movement of gases(SDG);
firebox in the furnaces of I.V. Kuznetsov is part of the lower hood of the furnace and is combined with it into a single whole through a continuous air gap, located in one of the walls of the firebox and called "dry seam";
inner space lower hood of the furnace with a firebox, usually, lined with refractory fireclay bricks. The purpose of the lining is to protect the outer walls of the furnace, made of solid clay bricks, from exposure to high flame temperatures;
the inner lining is separated from the outer lining of the furnace by temperature air gaps. The purpose of the temperature gaps is to prevent the destruction of the outer brickwork of the furnace by the lining, which expands when it is heated by the flame of burning wood;
firebox many of the furnaces of I.V. Kuznetsov in their upper part contains a lattice made of fireclay bricks. This lattice (received, in the terminology of the author, the name "catalyst") is designed to increase the completeness of combustion of volatiles emitted by burning wood, and to achieve higher temperatures in the firebox.

All brick sauna stoves by I.V. Kuznetsov, both intermittent and continuous, are designed for placing a heater inside the stove.

Recall that sauna stoves periodical action suggest their initial heating, and only then the start of taking bath procedures. In bath furnaces of periodic action, the stone lining for vaporization can only be located inside the furnace, and it is heated directly by the flame of burning fuel.

Bath stoves of constant action suggest the possibility of heating the stove while taking bath procedures. In bath furnaces of constant action, the stone laying for vaporization can be located either in a closed metal container or in an open metal container. In the first case, the container with stones is completely inside the furnace, in the second case, the container is only partially in the furnace, and the stones placed in the container are outside. In continuous furnaces, stones are heated indirectly through the metal wall of the container in which they are placed.

Model of a brick bath stove of constant actionreplaced the previously developed I.V. Kuznetsov to similar furnaces of constant action.

Main differencesthis oven model was:

metal tank application for stones specific design;
place and method of installation of the tank v brick oven;
the absence of a "catalyst" - a fireclay grate in the upper part of the firebox;
advanced internal secondary air supply systeminside the ovenfrom the ash space to the top of the firebox and a specially shaped smoke chamberfor afterburning combustible gases emitted by burning wood;
actual replacement of the 2nd furnace hood with a small smoke chamber(hog).

In order to make it easier to understand the changes made by I.V. Kuznetsov to the design of his existing brick bath stoves of constant action, I propose to first consider in in general terms the design of the drawings available in the open press of 2 models of such furnaces:BIK P1 3.5×4 met and BIK 41.

On the fig.1 and fig.2shows sections of two models of continuous furnaces by Igor KuznetsovBIK P1 3.5×4 met and BIK 41 with metal tanks for stone laying placed inside these furnaces.

Fig.1. Sauna furnace of periodic action by I.V. KuznetsovaBIK P1 3.5×4 met

Rice. 2. Bath stove of periodic action by I.V. KuznetsovBIK 41

From the drawings it can be seen that how the ovenBIK P1 3.5×4 met, and oven BIK 41 are 2-x bell-shaped. Metal ovens for stones are located inside the ovens and differ only in size. Oven for stones in the ovenBIK 41larger ovens for oven stonesBIK P1 3.5×4 metdue to the fact that in the ovenBIK 41the upper cap is made smaller in size, is located behind the stone tank and is shifted to the right wall of the furnace.

First ( lower) furnace capBIK P1 3.5×4 met(fig.1)ends 21stnext to red ceramic bricks, and the second ( upper) cap with overlap occupies from the 23rd to 30th rows and is located directly above the lower cap. Row 22 is the overlap of the lower cap.

In the oven BIK 41 (Fig. 2)the lower cap occupies space with2nd to 17th rows, 18th and 19th rows - overlapping part of the lower cap, 20-25 rows - the upper cap, 26-30 rows - overlapping the 2nd part of the lower cap and the entire upper cap(Fig. 2).Those who wish to verify what has been said can refer to the site of I.V. Kuznetsov ( BIK P1 3.5×4 met; BIK 41).

Under the metal tanks for stones in the 11th (BIK 41) and 12th (BIK P1 3.5 × 4 met) ranks is fireclay brick lattice ("catalyst" according to the terminology of the author of furnaces). The purpose of the "catalyst" is to mix the furnace gases with the air supplied to the firebox. Mixing furnace gases with air to increase the completeness of combustion products of thermal decomposition of wood emitted by burning wood. In addition, heated to high temperatures " catalyst "becomes a powerful source of beam (radiation) radiation towards burning firewood, which contributes to their heating and more intensive release of volatile combustible gases from firewood.

Air is supplied to the firebox for burning firewood from the blower compartment through a grate and a slot located in the 5th row of the firebox bottom in front of the stove door. This gap originates in the 4th row of the hearth of the firebox.

In the furnace BIK P1 3.5 × 4 met gap in front of the furnace door has a width of 2.5 cm, and in the BIK 41 oven - a width of 1 cm.

The metal tanks for stones themselves have the shape of a parallelepiped placed vertically with support on the smaller side. On one of the side surfaces of these tanks there is a rectangular loading opening for stones, which has the shape of a rectangular tunnel and connects the internal cavity of the stone tank with one end, and the opening of the stove door with the other side.

Stones are placed in the tank through this hole. Through the same hole, water is thrown onto the stones during the giving and steam exits into the steam room.

Furnaces BIK P1 3.5 × 4 met and BIK 41 belong to brick bath furnaces of continuous operation. Such stoves are called stoves, the design of which allows them to be used while taking bath procedures and at the same time not to stop (either if necessary or if desired) the process of burning firewood (for heating the stone laying that cools down when serving). In such furnaces, the possibility of getting into the steam room of furnace gases during soaring is excluded.

TO positive aspects In the case of permanent stoves, one can attribute the absence of soot and ash settling on the stones of the heater during the heating of the stove and, as a result, the inability to get into the steam room of these combustion products during the supply of water to the stove.

There is nothing terrible in this, since in periodic brick sauna stoves this factor is eliminated by one or two pours of boiling water on the heater before the start of soaring with an open pipe damper and while simultaneously covering the door of the heater immediately after supplying water to the heater. All ash and other solid unburned deposits from the process of burning firewood from stones are carried away by steam through the chimney into the atmosphere.

In addition, the possibility of fireclay dust from the walls of the firebox getting into the steam room when serving is excluded. In batch-type brick sauna stoves developed by I. Kuznetsov, this probability remains. Whether this is good or bad - I find it difficult to answer. Studies on the effects on the human body of such emissions have not been conducted. Therefore, it is up to the user of such a sauna stove to decide on the benefits or harms of this factor.

For some bath lovers weak side brick sauna stoves of periodic action is considered to be an insufficiently high heating temperature of a stone laying in a metal box. The temperature of the stones in the kilns BIK P1 3.5×4 met and BIK 41 rarely exceeds 400ºС. This is due to the fact that the stones are still heated indirectly, through the metal walls of the stone oven. In this case, the convective component of heat transfer is almost completely excluded from the process of heating stones. The radiative component of the heat of the flame of burning wood reaches the stones significantly weakened by the walls of the tank.

In a metal tank, the heating of the heater occurs mainly due to conductive heat transfer between the stones in contact with each other, and to a lesser extent due to radiant energy, but not from an open flame, but from the re-radiation of radiant energy by the heating stones themselves and the walls of the oven tank.

Let me remind you that conductive method of heat transfer (by using the mechanism of heat conduction) involves the transfer of heat between bodies in direct contact with each other. Heat is transferred from a hot to a colder body by larger and intensity of oscillatory movements of its atoms (molecules) of a heated solid.

convective heat transfer involves the transfer of thermal energy from a heated air environment to a colder solid body due to collisions of heated air molecules with such a body. Since there is practically no air movement in a closed oven for stones, the transfer of its thermal energy by this air to the heating stones is minimized.

Radiative component of heat transfer is caused by radiant energy emitted by a heated medium. In a stove, such a medium is the hot gases emitted by burning wood.

However, in continuous sauna stoves, the radiant energy of burning wood is first absorbed by the walls of the stone oven, and then re-radiated by them both into the tank and out.

Part of the thermal energy of the flame of burning wood, absorbed by the metal walls of the oven tank, is transferred to the stone lining due to conductive heat transfer.

And part of this energy is re-emitted in the form of radiant heat inside the tank to the stones both by the walls of the metal tank itself and by the stones themselves at each other.

Thus, in stoves of constant action, stones get less heat energy released by burning wood than a similar heater, but directly heated by the flame of burning wood.

As a result, the heating temperature of the stones inside the metal tank is, as a rule, lower than the temperature of the heater located inside the batch furnace directly in the flow of burning gases.

In batch ovens, the heater is located in the upper part of the firebox and is directly heated by the flame of burning wood. At the same time, the radiant component of burning firewood plays the main role in heating the stone lining. The second and third places in the amount of transferred heat are shared by the convective and conductive components of heat transfer. The ratio of these values to each other depends on the type of materials laid in the heater (stone, cast iron), their geometric shape (parallelepiped, ball, ellipsoid, etc.), dimensions.

However, the indisputable advantage of brick stoves with continuous operation is the fact that the stones inside the oven tank installed in such an oven always remain clean, they do not have deposits of soot, ash and fireclay dust, which is inherent in stoves with periodic action!

When submitting to located inside the tank heater portions of boiling water for steam generation, those present in the steam room are not threatened to receive, along with a portion of steam, a portion of soot, ash and fireclay chips flying out of the oven!

In addition, the stones in the tank are heated in a more gentle thermal regime, which directly affects their service life. The service life of a stone backfill in continuous furnaces at least 2 times higher the same indicator for batch ovens.

Even scattered over time under the influence of high temperatures during operation stones heaters in continuous ovens no way cannot affect the quality of the fuel combustion process.

convection channels bath furnace of constant action for the passage of furnace gases, formed at the stage of laying the furnace, remain unchanged during the operation of the furnace. They are not clogged with crumbling stones of the heater. The furnace continues to operate in the same thermal and gas-dynamic conditions, provided for by its original design.

To increase the thermal energy stored by such a heater in order to extend the steaming modes, they put up to 60% cast iron in the form of bars, brake wagon shoes, balls, etc.

I want to note that the temperatures of heating stones up to 350-400ºС is quite sufficient to obtain superheated water vapor, from which you can get excellent steam bath conditions with the presence .

The question is how many people and how long are going to bathe and get the appropriate conditions required for soaring. For a family of 4-6 people, such a furnace is able to provide the required modes for 5-6 hours of soaring. At worst, what prevents you from flooding the stove and heating the stones that have cooled down from the sacrifices? After all, a continuous oven allows you to do this. 🙂

Another bottleneck Kamenka, enclosed in metal cabinets-ovens in bath stoves of constant action, was their property of being ejected to the outside after falling on an already cooled stone laying, in addition to water vapor, also non-evaporated small drops of water.

There were several reasons for this phenomenon:

1) a decrease in the power of vaporization of the heater that has cooled down from the heater (the impossibility of converting the portion of water supplied to the heater into a gaseous state in a few seconds);

2) the surface of the stove, limited in area, participating in vaporization (the surface of stones on which portions of thrown water fell), and which was determined by the design features of the stone oven (in particular, the shape and size of its loading opening);

3) the limited in size (practically closed on all sides) volume of the oven for stones with a cooled down heater contributed to the release of, in addition to steam, the droplet-liquid fraction of water portions thrown onto the heater.

Presence in the air the steam room, in addition to water vapor in the form of a gas, also a suspension of droplet-liquid water did not contribute to the creation of conditions favorable for obtaining an atmosphere of "light steam".

Now let's briefly touch on the issue of heating the steam room with the brick oven itself.

Let me remind you that the main task of the sauna stove in the Russian steam bath is heating up to the required high temperature of the stone laying . The second task of the sauna stove is to heat the steam room. In doing so, it must be observed an important condition: in the process of heating the stones in the oven to the required temperature, in no case should we overheat the steam room. By the time the stones are heated to the maximum temperature possible under these conditions (in our case, not lower than 35 0-400ºС) the temperature in the steam room and all enclosing elements (ceiling, walls, shelves, floor) should not exceed 45-50ºС.

The heating of the steam room with a brick oven is carried out mainly due to the creation of radiant heat transfer by the walls of the oven and heated convection air flows.

Why did the oven get its name?"Russauna"?

The answer to this question is simple. The stove of this design allows you to get steam modes that are typical not only for a Russian bath, but also modes inherent in a dry-air sauna!

So for a Russian bath, this stove allows you to get steam modes in the temperature range Т=45-65 0 С and relative humidity φ=60-90%. If desired, using this model of the stove in the steam room, you can get modes close to the modes of a dry-air sauna - air temperature up to T=90-100 0 C with low relative humidity φ=5-9%.

As you know, in steam rooms with a metal stove (saunas), air convection is necessarily present. Ascending air currents in a sauna with a metal stove are formed in the convection channels formed by the walls of the firebox and the protective metal casing of the stove. Due to the convection of air, the heating of the steam room is accelerated. Air convection is also present when taking bath procedures.

In the steam room of the Russian steam bath, convective air flows are reduced to almost a minimum. The heat content of the air in the steam room is increased by supplying water to hot stones, and even then only during the bath procedures, and not during the preparation of the bath.

In a Russian steam bath, the air temperature is rarely raised to values exceeding 60ºС. To withstand such a temperature at values of absolute air humidity, component d=80-100 g/m 3 for every cubic meter of steam room space, maybe not everyone. The relative humidity of the air under these conditions is φ=60-75%.

But there are lovers of bathing at temperatures 70-80ºС and at the same time wishing to obtain the same absolute humidity d=80-100 g/m 3(relative humidity φ=30-40%).

Here we will not characterize these conditions: good or bad. In the end, everyone chooses for himself what he likes. We will only note the fact that the sauna stove makes it possible to get in the steam room as the modes inherent in the classic steam Russian bath (T=50-60ºС,d=80-100g/m3, φ=60-75%), as well as temperature and humidity regimes, which occupy an intermediate position between the regimes of a classic steam Russian bath and the regimes of a high-temperature dry-air sauna (T=90-100ºС, d=40-60 g/m3, φ=5-9%).

In other words, who loves it hot, he can easily get the conditions T = 70-80ºС in his steam room, d=80-100 g/m3, φ=30-40%.

This is achieved with the help of the fact that the tank for stones new design allows you to organize an additional convection air flow for heating the steam room, coming from the inside of the tank through one of the nozzles for outputting superheated steam to the outside.

This phenomenon becomes possible due to the phenomenon of some uneven heating of different sides of the tank inside the furnace.

If you bring your palm to the outlet of the holes in the steam outlet tank, you can feel that heated air comes out through one of these holes, and the air from the steam room is sucked into the other hole.

If there is no desire to overheat the steam room due to additional air convection through the tank with stones, it is enough to cover one or both of these holes, for example, with one or two stones. When water is supplied to the stones through the funnel of a metal oven-heater, the necks of the steam pipes are freed from stones, thereby freeing up passages for overheated steam to enter the steam room.

As a rule, the upper surface of the tank is hidden with a layer of stones. These stones not only give the stove a more aesthetic appearance, but at the same time perform such an important function as shielding the steam room from hard radiation emitted by the heated upper surface of the tank (Fig.5).

Another indisputable advantage of the new RusSauna sauna stove became a factor of her elevated(compared to other continuous ovens) maintainability and ease of use.

If necessary, the stone oven can be easily removed from the oven and thus accessed to its interior for routine maintenance.

Since the stones are inside the metal tank, they do not have any mechanical effect on the fireclay walls of the firebox. The pressure from the spacer forces of the heated stones is experienced only by the walls of the tank. But this trouble can be dealt with quite easily.

To protect the bottom and side walls of the tank from the action of spacer forces created by heated stones, inside the tank can be laid horizontally and be established vertically along the walls cast iron grate. If a couple of grates install vertically in the middle of the tank between the stones, then in this case we can achieve more uniform heating of the stone lining in height . This happens due to the fact that cast iron has a higher thermal conductivity compared to stone, and therefore delivers heat faster from the bottom of the tank to upper layers heaters.

Installation/removal of grates in/from the tank/a is carried out through the filling hole located in the upper surface of the tank, which is further closed with a metal lid with a watering can for giving portions of water to the heater.

In I. Kuznetsov's continuous brick ovens of earlier years of design, such an operation (installation / removal of grates) was not so convenient due to the existing design of metal oven tanks.

In addition, in the brick ovens of the author of earlier years of production, the repair / replacement of the stone oven tank required partial dismantling of the outer brick and inner fireclay masonry of the oven. Which, you see, was not convenient and required much more labor.

Fig.5. Sauna stove "RusSauna" performed by A.M. Shalagin

Let's summarize briefly.

From the above, it can be seen that the new model of the brick sauna stove developed by Igor Viktorovich Kuznetsov "RusSauna" has a number of strong moments. The features of this stove not only eliminated the weaknesses of the previous continuous bath stoves, but also made it possible to obtain a wide range of temperature and humidity conditions in the steam room, which are typical not only for a steam Russian bath, but also close to the regimes of a high-temperature dry-air sauna.

In terms of its characteristics, this stove is as close as possible to the characteristics of batch-type brick sauna stoves, and even surpassed many of them in terms of its capabilities!

This oven model has become almost universal!

Well, that's all for now!

In the future, on the pages of the blog, we will consider the design features of this furnace model.

In saunas, designed for one family and heated with wood, brick stoves-heaters of periodic action are usually used, in which stones are heated by flue gases passing through them. Such furnaces are about 30% more economical than combined furnaces and allow faster heating of stones to the required temperature. With intensive heating of the furnace, the lower layers of stone filling can be heated up to 1000-1100 ° C, the upper layers - up to 500-600 ° C. At such temperatures, the soot burns out and the stones remain clean. The only drawback of batch furnaces is the need to wait for complete combustion of the fuel or to remove the remnants of unburned fuel, so that carbon monoxide did not get into the bath when the chamber was opened.

The most compact are metal stoves of a simplified design without a tank for heating water. On fig. 51 shows one of these structures. In a metal box - a body with doors - grates with a stove are laid on the shelves from the corners, forming the bottom of the combustion chamber. Bricks are installed on them along the perimeter of this chamber, forming a screen to reduce thermal radiation. Case thickness - not less than 4 mm. Steel gratings are laid on the bricks, fixing the bricks in a vertical position and serving as a pallet for stone backfill. All internal parts are installed through a removable cover. During the top-ke of the furnace, flue gases enter the pipe, passing through the stone backfill. Water is heated in buckets or rectangular tanks placed on the lid.
Rice. 51. Metal heater of periodic action1- frame;2, 3 - doors;4- a shelf;5- grate;6 - plate;7 - bricks;8 - stones;9 - lid;10 - latticesteel
The most perfect heaters with built-in containers for heating water. They can replace the brick reinforcement of the combustion chamber from one or more sides, and can also be made in the form of a wall of the entire furnace.
The domestic industry does not yet produce metal batch furnaces. However, such a stove can be assembled from a washer stove and a metal barrel by making a steam door in the barrel and providing it with nozzles for connecting to a washer stove and a chimney.
On fig. 52 the external view and diagram of a metal heater of a foreign design are given. The furnace has internal reinforcement. The damper and channels for supplying secondary air to the firebox provide more complete combustion of fuel and its economical consumption.

Rice. 52. Heater of foreign design1 - metal case;2 - reinforcement;3 - firebox door;4 - grate;5 - blower door;6 - dampersecondary air;7 - manhole cover; 8-smoke exhaust cartridgeside;9 - stones
On fig. 53,a the external view of a brick stove-chi-heater of a reinforced design without a water-heating tank is shown. The firebox is made of refractory bricks and has a slot vault for stone filling. The width of the gaps (the distance between the brick arches) is 5-8 cm.
For a more complete use of heat, the stove is equipped with chimneys in the form of sinkholes and a common prefabricated chimney connecting the upper part of the stone chamber with a chimney (not shown in the figure). In order to increase the strength, the furnace is enclosed in a frame made of steel corners. On fig. 53, b shows a diagram of a brick stove with a hot water boiler. The stone chamber has two doors. Sometimes chimneys are made that pass flue gases from the space around the boiler to the lower part of the stone chamber.

Rice. 53. Brick ovens-heaters of periodic actiona- without hot water tank;b -with hot water boiler
On fig. 54 the external view and the scheme of the heater with a hot tray for the water tank are given. The foundation for it is laid 4 rows of bricks lower than for other structures. This ensures air heating below the floor (warm floor) and the installation of a water tank at floor level. The flue gases from the stone chamber enter the horizontal flues below the ash pan through the drain channel and enter the vertical flue. When the stove is kindled, the lower damper is opened, which communicates the stone chamber directly with the vertical chimney. After the appearance of draft in the pipe, the lower damper must be closed.
Rice. 54. Brick heater with a hot tray for a water tanka - appearance and design;b- laying order
A two-burner stove can have other sizes. It can also be replaced by two single-burner stoves with dimensions of 47x32 or 48X32 cm. Steel plates with a size of 15X5X0.3 cm (you can change the dimensions) are laid between the 3rd and 4th rows of bricks. It is advisable to take the rods for laying between the bricks of the 13th and 15th rows smooth, so that during thermal elongation they easily slide between the bricks. It is convenient to use crowbars for this purpose. Holes in the masonry at the ends of the rods must be sealed with asbestos cord and plastered on the outside. The inner rods can be closed from above with a blind plate. In this case, it is necessary to install a steam door on the side of the chamber, similar to the top-liver door. The stove above the stone chamber can be used to heat water in buckets.
The designs of brick stoves, both periodic and combined, are diverse. Everyone improves and adapts them in their own way, based on the availability and size of available appliances, hot water tanks, boilers, etc. Sometimes electric ones are used to heat water, gas stoves and water heaters, laundry stoves, and for heating the bathhouse and generating steam - heaters of a simplified design. They are convenient in baths with a usable volume of more than 15 m 3 for large families and in small public baths. For an example on rice. 55 another design of the stove-chi-heater is given, which allows you to simultaneously heat the steam room, washing room and dressing room. It is heated from the pre-bannik, the steam door goes into the steam room, and the heating shield - into the washing room. On the shield there are two lowering channels and one lifting channel passing into the pipe. A ventilation grill with a valve is inserted into the wall of the lifting channel from the side of the washing room to remove steam from the washing room. The damper can only be opened after the furnace has been completed and the dampers of both downcomers have been closed.
Rice. 55. Heater with heating plate1, 2, 3 - doors blower, furnace and for var;4, 5 gate valves for the drain and lift channels of the heating shield;6 - cleaning doors;7 - masonry of the combustion chamber from refractory brickswhose
V. A. Safin We are building a bath. - M .: Stroyizdat, 1990. - 192s.

I must say that although I am a big fan of the sauna, the baths in which the stoves are built, I really like the way described below. Many people love them more, and tolerate them more easily than a sauna (yes, take my wife, for example). Using the method described in the article, a stove was built in the bath and my grandfather - and to be honest, rest after a steam room in such a bath turns out better and you feel better after it. It's probably a matter of tradition anyway.

Types of stones.

Brick bath stoves (otherwise called heaters) are of 2 types: periodic and continuous. Traditional, real Russian baths were heated exclusively with stoves periodical action. Previously, in ancient times, they did not have pipes, and they were heated in a black way - that is, the smoke went along the ceiling of the bath. They began to make stoves with chimneys only from the beginning of the 18th century, and even then they began to heat baths on white, that is, as we do now.

Furnaces Periodic action cannot be heated while you are steaming or washing in a bathhouse, because then smoke will also penetrate into the bathhouse along with the steam from the stove. These stoves are heated for three, five or even more hours before going to the bath. Stones heated by an open fire can heat up to 900 ° C, and the steam from such a stove is given off the way connoisseurs of the steam room love - light, not scalding, dry and easily portable.

Continuous heaters, in which cobblestones are placed in insulated metal containers, have appeared relatively recently. The advantage of such stoves is that they can also be heated during bathing procedures, and the disadvantage is that the stones separated by the walls of the container from an open fire do not warm up above 600 ° C. The steam in such heaters turns out to be “raw”, burning the human body.

Fire fighting measures. When installing a periodic heater, it must be remembered that this design is the most fire hazardous of all household stoves. A ton of cobblestone heated to 900 degrees and three or four tons of brickwork heated to a high temperature represent a great potential hazard. In order to avoid trouble, during the construction of the heater it is necessary to follow the rules of fire safety. Truth, special rules not for stones.

Moreover, some prohibitions and restrictions have recently been lifted and baths have been built, as anyone pleases - of immense size, two floors, with chambers of stone filling for two tons, etc. And this, in my opinion, is unacceptable.

Features of the design and masonry of the heater.

Kamenka stoves have structural differences from other household stoves. So, they do not provide descending chimneys and, if the stove is large, “unoccupied” space appears to the left and right of the blower. It is advisable to use it for arranging through niche channels in order to store poker, tongs and other utensils in them. They, among other things, increase the heat-releasing surface of the furnace.

In order for the firebox, which is made large in heaters, to receive enough air to burn firewood, the blower and the blower door must also be of sufficient size.

For a more free flow of air into the firebox, it is better to lay the grate along the blower. But on sale it is difficult to find grates for the entire length (depth) of the blower, so it is often necessary to lay short grates across the blower.

The firebox and the stone filling chamber are lined with fireclay bricks, which are best placed on a mortar (a solution of fireclay clay and fireclay with special additives) with an indent from the outer walls of the furnace of 8-10 mm. The lining will expand from high temperature, but the gap will protect the outer walls of the furnace from cracking. Instead of fireclay (fireclay "groats"), sand should not be used. It breaks down at high temperatures.

The firebox is arranged so that its height from the grate blows up to the laying of the cobblestone is 8-9 rows of masonry (56-63 cm). It is impossible to reduce this distance by bringing the cobblestone closer to the fire for more intense heating of the stones. In this case, the result will be the opposite.

The fact is that when burning wood, the highest temperature is at the top of the flame. At a short distance, the top of the flame will rest against the cobblestones, the temperature of the flame will decrease on them, and unburned soot will settle on the surfaces of the stones and in the cracks between them.

Laying arches with your own hands.

One of the problems when arranging large heaters is the arrangement of grates on which the stones are located. From the high temperature and gravity of the cobblestone, the grate is constantly deformed and fails. Even railway rails laid instead of grates can be deformed.

In the heater, instead of grates, it is better to make brick arches (or a vault with holes), on which you can put rail sections. This will create a solid foundation for the stone backfill.

Before laying an arch or vault, notches are made on the prepared formwork on the brick beds for better adhesion. Then the brick is rubbed or washed by briefly immersing it in water. It must be remembered that fireclay bricks should not be heavily wetted.

First, the brick is laid without mortar - for "shooting". When laying on a mortar, the bricks are upset by tapping lightly with a rubber mallet, and the castle one is upset more carefully. The solution should be of medium density.

After an hour and a half, the formwork must be dismantled, and 3-4 bricks should be placed on the arch. As a result, the arch will receive a prestress in order to withstand the loads from the stone backfill in the future. The mortar in the seams between the bricks of such an arch will be dense and durable, and it will last a long time.

If the folded arch is left on the formwork for a week or longer, due to the large shrinkage of the masonry mortar, the solidity of the masonry will be disturbed (clay mortar has a volumetric shrinkage of up to 5%.) Slits invisible to the eye are formed between the bricks of the arch. The longer the arch remains on the formwork, the weaker it will be.

Stone chamber.

The dimensions of the window for the exit of steam from the stone filling chamber should be such that it is possible, if necessary, to climb through it into the heater to replace cobblestones or grates, as well as for other repairs.

The distance from the rails to the window is made no more than 50 cm (seven rows of masonry). This is due to the fact that the top of the cobblestones should always be at or below the shelf in the steam room. The lower the steam source, the more efficiently it will be used. In addition to the door in the window, it is necessary to install an internal damper. Thanks to her, the wall of the steam room, opposite the window, will heat up less, and heat will be better preserved in the chamber. For more intense heating of the backfill, the walls of the chamber can be lined with sheets of fire-resistant steel. It's expensive and inefficient.

The total height of the chamber is made with the expectation that there are at least four rows between the top of the backfill and the vault (ceilings). At a lower height, it will be difficult to splash water on distant stones. The blocking of the chamber of stone filling is always arranged one or two rows above the lintel of the chamber window. This part of the chamber is a smoke collector - during the kindling of the heater, it will not allow smoke to enter the steam room.

Between the arch and the rows of the main ceiling of the furnace, it is necessary to leave a sedimentary gap in one row of masonry. The gap is also used as a chimney to the chimney, allowing it to be installed on any corner of the furnace.

Orders and sections of the furnace:

1 - smoke damper; 2 - stripes and corners; 3 - railway rails R-70 for laying cobblestone on them; 4 - steel tube 050 mm for additional steam or water heating; 5 - furnace door; 6 - blower door; 7 - grate fireboxes; 8 - cobblestone of volcanic origin; 9 - temperature gaps; 10 - through niches-channels for storing pokers, tongs and other small items; 11 - damper of the steam outlet window; 12 - steam outlet door; 13 - ceiling cutting.

Ceiling section.

The most dangerous place in the steam room in terms of fire is the ceiling around the chimney. So that this place does not heat up unnecessarily, the pipe at the point of passage through the ceiling is placed with thicker walls - with a ceiling cut. For heaters, the wall thickness of the pipe here is 38 cm or 25 cm with additional thermal insulation.

The outer dimensions of the pipe cutting are 76 × 76 cm. But at the place where the pipe passes in the ceiling, a large opening is arranged - 86 × 86 cm. Gaps of 5 cm on each side between the brick and the ceiling material are filled with basalt wool or other fireproof material.

Ordinary brick begins to collapse at a temperature of 700 ° C, so it is better to lay the ceiling cutting from fireclay bricks. For greater decorativeness, some details of the furnace (extension at the bottom, skirt, cutting elements) can be made from bricks that differ from the rest in color.

Materials needed to build a stove

brick red	M200	1000 pcs.
fireclay brick	Sh-8	450 pcs.
Chamotte wedge-shaped brick	Sh-55	80 pcs.
Smoke damper	260×260 mm	1 PC.
Steel corner	65x65x5mm	14 m
Steel strip	50×5 mm	2.5 m
Heat-resistant steel tube	050 mm	1.5m
Railway rail	R-70	2.5 m
Furnace door	280x 250 mm	1 PC.
Blower door	210×250 mm	1 PC.
Grid grates	200×300 mm	6 pcs.
Steam damper	Produce locally	1 PC.
steam outlet door	Produce locally	1 PC.
Chamotte clay		170 kg
fireclay		170 kg
Clay, mountain sand	On demand
Cobblestone of volcanic origin		1t

STOVES FOR THE BATH WITH YOUR HANDS - OPTIONS FROM READERS

We make a stove for a bath from a potbelly stove with our own hands

A bath for a summer resident is not a luxury, but a prime necessity. And if so, she needs a simple, economical and efficient firebox.

Such a " barrel stove» for the bath I made from two metal barrels. As a stove, you need to take a barrel with a capacity of 200 liters, and a second, smaller barrel can be welded to the first and used to heat water. I welded such a barrel with a capacity of 90-100 liters to the stove. But at the same time, he bent one of its walls so that the future water tank would fit well against the wall of the stove.

And in front of the furnace, he cut a hole for a pipe, which he filled with stones to accumulate heat. Cut the pipe to the width of the oven. At one end, he drowned it out and inserted it into the hole in the furnace, and then scalded it along the end. To prevent stones from falling out of the oven, I made a special grate (see fig.).

Then I cut a square hole for the firebox, made a door and a blower. Each summer resident must install the stove in such a way that it is convenient to maintain it and “give it to the park”.

I think that my stove meets such requirements as simplicity, cheapness and reliability. It is especially pleasing that you can go to wash in such a bathhouse literally half an hour after kindling.

Manufacturing

Considering dimensions old oven and premises, prepared a drawing of a new design (see Fig.). Partially dismantled the old furnace, leaving only a firebox with an afterburner pipe. The cracks in the masonry were covered with clay.

From sheet steel 10 mm thick, according to the drawing, I welded a rectangular box for the heater and a water tank. In the heater, I cut out the necessary openings for the doors on the side of the steam room (photo 1) and washing (photo 2). as well as holes for the afterburner pipe. In the latter, from the side of the steam room, I cut out a rectangular opening and closed it with a door (see photo 1 p. 1).

I installed the finished heater on the firebox, strung it on a pipe, welded the joints from above and below. Installed a chimney on the stove.

I fixed a water tank on the firebox (photo 3). The walls of the washing department adjacent to the stove were sewn up with tin for fire safety purposes.

For better heat supply to the steam room under the doors of the heater, I drilled nine holes d 20 mm (photo 4). I painted the body of the heater and the tank with heat-resistant silver, and whitened the stove.

Tests

When he flooded the stove, the bath measuring 2.3 × 3.3 × 2 m warmed up to readiness in 1.5-2 hours. A 100-liter water tank is heated in the same time to a temperature of 95-100 degrees. To prolong bathing procedures, thanks to a pipe with an afterburner, you can throw firewood at 3 logs per hour.

Furnace Advantages

Three positions for space heating:

A - the doors of the heater in the steam room and in the sink are open - simultaneous heating of two rooms.

The B-door of the heater in the steam room is closed, and in the sink it is open - more heat in the washing compartment. On the contrary, accelerated heating of the steam room.

B - All doors are closed - heat accumulation mode in the heater.

Two firing modes:

A - with a fully open blower door - the fastest heating of the bath.

B-with the door closed - maintaining heat in the bath, for example, in the summer.

The wide window of the heater in the steam section allows you to safely pour water onto hot stones.

Which oven is best?

The main thing in the bath is the stove-heater. Previously, it was built of brick. Now you can just buy ready-made metal structure. The main thing is to choose the right one among the many options.

All stoves-heaters are divided into three types according to the type of energy carrier used: wood, electric and gas.

Wood

The minimum formation of smoke and the absence of burning, which means that the procedure for taking a bath will be not only useful, but also safe for health.

All models use special elements that eliminate the risk of burns.

Variety of shapes and colors.

Cheaper electric and gas stoves.

Soot accumulates on the stones and must be cleaned regularly.

Electrical

No need for a chimney.

Eco-friendly. Any contamination is excluded.

They have a temperature control and regulation system.

– High energy consumption of 1 kW/1 sq. m.

Both rooms heat up very quickly.

Able to heat water well. A scheme for passing the chimney through a special tank is used.

- The need for a gas pipeline on the site.

Although metal sauna stoves have been invented for many years, most people still prefer traditional brick ones. This choice is due to the fact that it is the “live” material that is able to create the most comfortable level of heat for a person and the optimal amount of steam, as well as give the room a cozy atmosphere.

Peculiarities

The main advantage of brick ovens for baths is a certain technology of vaporization, which is achieved thanks to unique properties bricks. A person in the room breathes easily, feels "soft" warmth and enveloping steam, saturated, but not burning. When the metal is heated, infrared radiation occurs, burning oxygen in the steam room and burning the skin. It is not surprising that brick heaters are preferred by people who take care of their health and choose comfort.

Brick construction comes in a variety of sizes and designs., which means it can fit into any bath that demonstrates the individuality of the owner. As a rule, furnaces are built with a base of 3.5 by 4 bricks (89 by 102 centimeters), or 4 by 5 bricks (102 by 129 centimeters). The height without a pipe can be 168 or 210 centimeters. The most popular is the model with a tank for heating water.

Pros and cons

When giving preference to brick ovens, it must be remembered that they have both certain advantages and disadvantages. Among the advantages are the following:

attractive appearance and the ability to fit into any bath interior: both made of wood and brick;
such a furnace will please the owner much longer than an iron one: unlike metal, brick is a material that will not be spoiled by small defects;
no need to carry out additional finishing work;
the emerging steam has a beneficial effect on human health;
the heated brick will not begin to release hazardous chemicals into the air;

a brick oven better maintains a high temperature throughout the bath;
for kindling, fuel is used that is sold on any construction market, as well as the simplest raw materials that do not even have to be bought: sticks, branches, newspapers, dry moss and others;
in a room with a periodic heater, you can steam for 2-3 days, and it will not cool down;
if, after bathing procedures, you simply do not close the door to the steam room, then the oven will dry the bath itself;
the chimney does not require monthly cleaning, unlike a metal firebox.

However, there are also some disadvantages:

the furnace structure itself is quite large, you will either need to initially build a large bath, or you will have to sacrifice some square meters;
if mistakes are made during the assembly process, the oven will not hold the temperature well, and the room will cool down quickly;
brick is a rather expensive material;
the services of a professional stove-maker are also very expensive;

due to heavy weight the stove will need a solid foundation, the depth of which should be below the freezing point of the soil, and the foundation for the stove should not be tied to the foundation for the very structure of the bathhouse;
building a heater is a long-term and labor-intensive task;
to completely melt a bath with a brick oven, it will take a long time, up to 6 hours.

Kinds

There are 4 main variations of sauna stoves:

"in white";
"in black";
"in gray";
with a plate.

Black-fired stoves do not have a chimney, and have been used in villages across the country for decades. All fumes and smoke leave through the steam room itself - in a natural way through the cracks and gaps of the roof. Of course, this is how the best steam and aroma arise in them, and it becomes very pleasant to wash, but at the same time you have to wait until all the firewood burns out. When choosing furnaces "in a black way" it is recommended to process internal walls baths with a special solution that can prevent the occurrence of soot residues. Black baths have a very high efficiency, and therefore, when using them, you can save on fuel.

Next in complexity are furnaces that are heated "in a gray way". They have a chimney, and therefore the bath warms up much faster. However, you still have to wait until all the fuel has burned out, as soot is deposited on the stones. The walls do not get dirty with soot, but when liquid is applied to the stones, a small amount of soot microparticles appears along with the steam from the furnace. This design can be direct-flow and with channels. In the first case, the stones located above the firebox are on fire, and the gases are released into the air through a pipe, and in the second - through two valves.

Furnaces "in white" warm up the room for up to 12 hours, but do not pollute the stones, therefore they are considered the most environmentally friendly. The process is as follows: the overlapping metal plate is heated from the fuel, and from it the stones, which will store heat for several hours. This method of heating appears to be the most expensive - it consumes a large number of firewood and other materials. Previously, the box in which the stones were put was made of ordinary black iron, but now it is made of heat-resistant stainless steel. Traditionally, white-baths have two separate spaces: a dressing room and a steam room itself. To warm both rooms, one side of the stove goes into the dressing room.

In the fourth case - with a stove - stones and a water tank, the placement of which can be changed, are heated by two cast-iron stoves. One of them is located above the firebox, and the second - above the chimney. On three sides, the slabs must be protected by a brick screen, which will provide a high temperature of the water. Such furnaces are usually built independently.

According to the type of fuel used, stoves are distinguished:

wood;
melted with coal;
natural gas;
diesel fuel;
wood chip briquettes;
electricity.

According to the type of construction, they are divided into furnaces:

with an open heater (typical for a Finnish sauna);
with a closed heater;
combined.

The heater in the first case is called flowing, and the stove itself is called periodic. In the second case, the heater is direct-flow, and the stove is continuous.

Batch stoves are usually chosen by large families when a lot of people go to wash, but the duration of the steaming process is short. They have thick walls that store heat for a long time and provide the necessary service life of the bath. The smoke passes through the stones before entering the chimney. The volume of stone filling in such a heater is much larger than in permanent heaters.

Bath stoves of constant action have a minimum wall thickness and the volume of stones located in an insulated metal box above the firebox. Their main advantage is the ability to use the steam room during the melting process. Stoves with a closed heater are also safer. Heating is carried out inside the body through the wall, which is common for the heater and the firebox. Stones store heat much longer, and the air in the steam room at the same time has a stable optimum temperature. It will take about 4-5 hours to warm up the air in such a bath.

Separately, it is worth highlighting such a variety as a stone stove-fireplace for a bath. This design has an attractive design, but has a low efficiency. If you install a fire-resistant glass valve, you can protect yourself from flames and enjoy relaxation in a warm room. That is why fireplaces are often installed in the "waiting rooms". Modern technologies allow you to design and mini-heaters. This design quickly warms the bath, but even after the fuel has completely burned out, the heating of the room remains. Its length and width are usually 2 bricks.

Design and style

Exists various ways decorating brick ovens.

With the help of plaster, you can make relief patterns, or simply create a neat smooth surface. Paint or decorative plaster is applied over the plaster.
Painting is the easiest option. In this case, it will only be necessary to paint the stove with 1-2 layers of very resistant paint.
If you need some creative and spectacular solution, then you should turn to facing the furnace portal with tiles or stone in a consistent or chaotic manner. In the event that the fireplace is planned to be closed, glass cladding is selected, and the brick itself will serve as decoration. In general, it is possible to clad the oven natural stone, majolica, unglazed terracotta, clinker tiles and porcelain stoneware.

When thinking about the color for the stove, it is recommended to be based on interior design. For example, the loft style implies artificially aged hand-moulded bricks. For classic interior in calm, light colors, as a rule, light yellow brick is used. Thanks to modern materials it is possible to paint the stove in any light.

If there is a desire to decorate a log bath in a Russian rustic style, then it is best to assemble the stove with your own hands. Usually it is tiled or simply plastered and painted in White color. It is also necessary to take care of the substrate, which can be glass-magnesite sheets or drywall.

Masonry schemes

If it has not happened before to build a heater, then it is recommended not to take it personally for drawing up a drawing, but to find a ready-made order and use it. Currently, various masonry schemes are used, the most complex of which are chosen by professionals, and the simple ones by amateurs. In both cases, the result is satisfactory, and the oven works efficiently. In addition to traditional masonry methods, the ordering of Kuznetsov's bell-type bath stoves is also distinguished. This design takes up much less space.

Initially, the oven is laid out dry in order to draw an ordering plan. It must be remembered that standard schemes are not suitable for all rooms, therefore, for each bath, they must be created individually, making the necessary changes to existing ones. Once you have a clear understanding of how each row is done, it's time to start the main assembly.

Ordering always begins with the foundation of the furnace, the so-called zero row. At this level, the laying is continuous, but a half-window is usually left on the side in order to create additional traction and clean the chimney shaft. At the next level, ligation is carried out - this means that the row is shifted by 30-50% to make the structure stable. If you need halves or quarters of a brick, it is recommended to use a grinder with a diamond disc. It must be remembered that such elements cannot be located in chimneys, the shafts of which are always assembled from solid bricks, but only inside the structure.

At the third level, a damper usually appears, and the installation of the ash pan door begins. The fourth row indicates the appearance of a soot sampling door. At the sixth stage, as a rule, the shaft is divided into two parts using a jumper, one of which will become the slab shaft. On the twelfth row, one of the mines will be laid, and one main one will remain. Usually, at the twenty-fifth and twenty-sixth stage, the masonry of the main structure ends, and then the chimney is laid.

Drawings and projects

The design of a sauna heater differs from traditional designs: it has a special space for heating stones, which allows you to heat the steam room at a high speed. There are two main designs of such a stove: grate and non-grate.

In a grate stove, firewood is placed on a small grate or grate. This device also serves as the bottom of the furnace, and primary air is supplied through it for ignition. Through the holes in the grate, the ash goes down, thus making room for a new portion of fuel. best material for this element of furnace fittings - cast iron, as it is more stable than steel. Such furnaces have high efficiency, high combustion intensity, and are very easy to maintain.

There are one-piece grates that cannot be disassembled, and typesetting, consisting of several parts. In the first case, when buying a part, you need to focus on the available area of \u200b\u200bthe furnace, and in the second, you can assemble an element of the required size yourself. Steel grates are produced by chain or pipe. Steel are tiled, basket, beam and movable.

The grate-less furnace is also called hearth. Firewood is placed on a sub-deaf floor, on which it is also possible to cook and bake, and air is supplied through the firebox door. In such furnaces, “upper combustion of the fuel” occurs, when the front propagates from upper layers bookmarks to the bottom as they burn, which is considered a more environmentally friendly way. For such stoves, only wood materials are used: firewood and briquettes.

Some craftsmen assemble stoves "by eye", since they believe that both the assembly of a brick oven and the iron lining are so simple that preliminary calculations are not needed for them. However, it is better to make preliminary calculations. Both the thermal regime and the amount of steam in the room depend on the correct design. Otherwise, it may happen that the air heats up very quickly, and the stones remain cold.

The parameters are calculated based on the dimensions of the room: length, height and width. The power of the furnace is also calculated depending on the volume of the steam room: 1 kilowatt of energy is required for each cubic meter.

How to do it yourself?

To independently fold a standard oven, the first step is to choose the right brick. The material must be very strong, capable of withstanding high temperatures and possessing refractory properties. Best Option It is considered a pale yellow brick based on refractory fireclay clay. It should be borne in mind that it is an expensive material, therefore, when building a home-made furnace, it is supplemented with solid red brick. For example, fireclay bricks are used for fragments that are subjected to the most severe heating, and to enclose external walls, smoke circulations and decorative elements- red hollow brand M with a number from 75 to 150.

When choosing a brick, you should follow a few simple rules:

When struck with a pick or hammer on a quality brick, a sonorous and clear sound will be heard;
The brick must meet the standard parameters: 250 by 120 by 65 millimeters;
At quality material there are no pronounced damages and defects, with the exception of filiform cracks and grooves;
If a brick has a "micaceous" film, this indicates a marriage.

To build a brick oven, you will need knowledge of block laying and compliance with a single order. First of all, a waterproofing layer is installed in the base of reinforced concrete in order to cool the foundation. At the same stage, an under-furnace for storing inventory is formed. Then the preparation of clay and sand begins to connect the elements, because cement is not suitable in this situation. The clay is thoroughly cleaned of stones and impurities beforehand and soaked for several days. It is recommended to take samples mined at a depth of 150 centimeters below the surface of the earth. Quarry or river sand is carefully sieved for pebbles or pieces of pebbles. After that, the clay must be stirred, diluted clean water without a musty smell and combine with sand prepared in the same way.

When using clay with a high fat content, it is recommended to dilute it with sand in proportions of 1: 2. To check whether the mixture is correct, you must use a wooden stick. It is dipped into the solution, and if the resulting layer has a thickness of 2 millimeters, then you can get to work. Experts also recommend giving preference to the clay underlying the selected brick, that is, either red or fireclay.

At the next stage, it will be necessary to lay out brick blocks. As a rule, this will require ordering, a square, pliers, a broom with a scoop and an emery wheel. Each brick is pre-immersed in water to ensure that all air bubbles are removed from the pores and that dehydration of the mortar is prevented. Fireclay bricks are not recommended to be immersed in liquid for a long time, a few seconds are enough to remove dust. Masonry starts from the corner. The first row is laid on a dry foundation, without applying a sand-clay mixture.

At some point, a water tank is also installed., plates, and, if necessary, a grate, as well as fixing the doors. Regardless of the method of laying, the key parts remain the same: a refractory brick firebox, a chimney, a water tank and an ash pan consisting of a cast-iron stove, a firebox and an understove. Drying of the sauna stove takes place within 4-5 days with open windows in the room. After this period, you can begin to heat it with small chips once a day, for a maximum of 10-15 minutes. While the condensate continues to rise to the surface, the furnace is not yet ready for full operation. Optionally, after that, you can carry out and finishing, for example, tiled.

When constructing a stone oven, the following rules must be taken into account:

leave at least 50 centimeters between the stove cover and flammable structures;
more than 1 decimeter should remain between the brick chimney and the wooden parts of the bath;
a gap will appear between the smoke channel and the roof, which must be covered with a metal plate, for example, made of galvanized steel;
the floor in front of the base of the stove is also covered with a metal plate about 10 millimeters thick, it will prevent sparks and coal from getting on a flammable surface;
the weight of the furnace together with the pipe, but without the foundation, should not exceed 750 kilograms;
before laying, all bricks are carefully sorted, products of the same thickness are selected to get even seams - the best examples go for smoke channels and fireboxes;
the stove is recommended to be built near the wall, which is opposite to the shelves in the steam room.

Beautiful examples in the interior

Decorative eye-catching finishes for beautiful and stylish stoves.

A massive wall-length stove-heater will become a bright accent of the steam room. It can be decorated with tile inserts, finished with stone and original brickwork. The rest of the interior details, including basins with ladles, are made of light wood. Brooms are an organic accessory.

If you want to design a high-tech bath, you need to use a concise small heater, possibly a mini one, and shiny metal sheets in the interior. The latter can also act as protection for wooden walls.

Brick oven-heater of periodic action

Let us consider in more detail the technique of erecting a brick oven-heater of periodic action (Fig. 22). The firebox of such a furnace is made of refractory bricks and has a slotted vault designed for stone filling. The width of the slots can vary from 5 to 8 cm.

Rice. 22. Brick oven-heater of periodic action: a- without hot water tank; b- with hot water boiler

The furnace must be equipped with chimneys in the form of pits. To give greater strength, it is recommended to finish it with steel corners. The chamber for stones, as a rule, is equipped with two doors.

It is not uncommon for chimneys to be arranged in such a way that they allow flue gases to pass from the area around the duct to the lower part of the stone chamber.

The construction of a massive brick stove-heater should begin with the laying of its foundation. To prevent the furnace from settling and tilting due to moistening or freezing of the soil, the foundation must be deepened by at least 0.5 m. Its transverse dimensions must be larger than the furnace ones by half a brick in each direction, i.e., in general, per brick. The distance from the furnace foundation to the wall foundation must be at least 5 cm, and the gap between them must be filled with sand. The bottom of the pit should be tamped and leveled using a special level. The most suitable foundation is considered to be concrete or rubble concrete. In dry ground, it can be made from bricks using lime, cement or lime-cement mortar.

Master's advice

For the preparation of lime mortar, slaked lime and sifted sand are used in a ratio of 1: 2 to 1: 3. Cement mortar, in which the ratio of cement and sand is 1: 3, is recommended to be prepared in small portions in order to have time to apply it before setting.

To mix a lime-cement mortar, you will need cement, lime and sand in a ratio of 1: 2: 10.

The foundation surface should be poured with cement mortar, leveled with a lath and covered on top with waterproofing roofing or roofing felt in two layers.

The main material for laying such furnaces is an ordinary solid brick of the first grade. It is strictly forbidden to use perforated and silicate bricks, as they quickly collapse. Refractory and refractory bricks are most suitable for laying and lining the furnace firebox. Refractory bricks are used for burning firewood, and refractory (chamotte) bricks are used for burning hard coal, liquid fuel, gas.

The basis of high-quality masonry is to ensure the tightness of the seams. This is necessary so that combustion products do not enter the bath room, which can cause poisoning. carbon monoxide. Masonry seams should be filled with mortar to the full depth. Their thickness should be minimal. If ordinary brick is used, then the joint thickness should not exceed 5 mm, and for refractory and refractory bricks, it should not exceed 3 mm for the entire depth. The solution can be spread by hand, with a trowel it is allowed to spread it only to the floor of the firebox and the bottom of the smoke channels.

It is necessary to ensure the smoothness of the internal surfaces of the furnaces. For this, chipped and hewn bricks have rough edges outward. Every 4-5 rows of masonry, the inner surfaces are rubbed with a damp bast brush or rag.

You can proceed to the laying of the next row only after all the bricks of the previous row have been laid. It is recommended that prior to laying on the mortar, it is recommended to make an approximate layout of bricks without mortar.

After the first row is laid, the correct angles should be checked using a special square or cord. After laying the second row at the corners of the oven, it is necessary to arrange guide cords with cut-offs. They should be hung with nails from the ceiling, and wound on nails from below, recessed into the seams between the two lower rows.

When laying bricks, it is important to follow the rules for their dressing: each vertical seam must be covered with a brick located next to it. It is strictly forbidden to bandage the laying of ordinary bricks with the laying of refractory or refractory bricks, since when the temperature rises, they have different expansion.

Furnace appliance doors, valves, grates, stoves and water boxes must be installed during bricklaying. The door frame should be mounted in the masonry using special paws (clamps) made of mild steel strip (hoop iron). The legs must be attached to the frame with rivets. Before fixing in place, the frame should be wrapped with asbestos cord or cloth. If there is no asbestos between the frame of the firebox door and the brickwork, then a gap of 3–4 mm wide must be left around the entire perimeter. This is necessary so that the frame, when heated, cannot push the masonry apart. In order to ensure the strength of the lintel, the firebox door must be closed in the “locked” manner, that is, when the middle brick is placed with beveled ends on the beveled ends of neighboring bricks. Other doors and damper frames must be fixed to the masonry with wire.

The grate is mounted with slots along the firebox. To expand the lattice between its edges and masonry bricks, it is necessary to leave a gap of at least 5 mm. It must be filled with sand. The same gap should be made between the stove above the firebox and the masonry.

One of the most important parts of the furnace is the firebox. For firewood firewood, its smallest width should be one brick, i.e., be 25 cm, and the minimum height should be 35 cm. The greater the height of the firebox, the better conditions fuel combustion. It is desirable that it be 40–60 cm. In the lower part of the wall, the firebox should be made with a slope towards the grate so that the coals rest on the grate during combustion.

The design of smoke circuits affects the uniformity of heating and the efficiency of the furnace. Their inner surface must be even.

It should not be covered with clay mortar, which quickly falls off and can clog the chimney.

The upper wall of the furnace (roof) consists of three rows of bricks, which are laid flat with dressing. If the vertical seams of the upper walls coincide, they should be covered with pieces of steel sheet.

The pipe for the heater must be mounted, i.e., located on the stove array. In this case, the thickness of the walls of the furnace and pipe, as well as the flow area of the smoke channels and pipes must be at least half a brick. The pipe must be brought to a height of at least 0.5 m from the roof surface. For this, it is recommended to use a cement or lime mortar, but not clay, as it is easily washed out by rain and condensate that forms inside the pipe.

In order to comply with fire safety, it is necessary to maintain a distance between the brick surface of the stove and the combustible structure, i.e., the wooden parts of the bath. It should be at least 40 cm if the structure is not protected from fire, and more than 25 cm with the existing protection. If the furnace and the pipe are made of metal, then these distances should be increased to 100 and 70 cm, respectively. Between brick pipe and wooden elements of the roof, it is necessary to leave a free distance of at least 10 cm. When using a metal or asbestos-cement pipe, the nearest wooden parts of the ceiling and roof must be covered with felt, pre-impregnated with clay mortar, and additionally sheathed with roofing steel. There should not be a gap between the pipe and the roof, so it should be closed with a galvanized steel apron. On the wooden floor in front of the furnace door it is recommended to install a metal sheet at least 70 x 50 cm in size.

Master's advice

Solutions of the following compositions are suitable for plastering the furnace - gypsum: lime: sand (2: 2: 1); clay: lime: sand (1:1:3); clay: cement: sand (1:1:3); clay:sand (1:2). Regardless of the choice of solution, it is recommended to add 0.1–0.2 parts of asbestos to it.

From the book Bath Building Tips the author Khatskevich Yu G

From the book How to build a rural house author Shepelev Alexander Mikhailovich

From the book Construction of a bath and sauna author Shukhman Yuri Ilyich

From the book Stoves for baths and saunas with their own hands author Kalyuzhny Sergey Ivanovich

From the author's book

BRICK MASONRY Used mainly for laying foundations and walls. It can be 1/2, 1, 1 1/2, 2, 2 1/2, 3 or more bricks thick, or 120, 250, 380, 510, 640, 770 mm, respectively. The thickness of the masonry depends on the purpose of the structure and local climatic conditions. Performed on various

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6.2. Classical brick Actually, the classic brick stove-heater is considered in the section on designing a bath, since it is proposed to design there, that is, “dance from the stove”. There are many similar constructions in the corresponding literature. masonry

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Compact stove-heater A compact stove-heater (Fig. 12) of continuous operation can be arranged on the basis of the so-called laundry stove. To do this, stones must be loaded into the tank instead of water, and water can be heated in a bucket mounted on stones. Stove-heater

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Metal stove combined with a kitchen stove The dimensions of the metal stove combined with a kitchen stove are 40 x 50 cm. During its operation, the temperature in the steam room can be maintained up to 100 °C. These ovens don't require a lot of space to set up.

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Small-sized stove-heater with a top-mounted tank Quite common is a small-sized stove with a water-heating tank (Fig. 15, 16). The volume of the chamber for stones and the capacity of the tank are 40 liters each. The tank is located on the slab next to the stones. Regulation

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Small-sized stove-heater with a lower tank placement The design of a small-sized stove-heater with a bottom tank placement (Fig. 17, 18) differs from other small-sized stoves in a larger furnace length and a capacious stone chamber volume (50 l). In addition, she has

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A stove-heater for small family baths In small bathhouses, it is enough to install one stove, which should be located in the center of the bath so that most of it with the stove is in the washing room (Fig. 19, 20). For building a stove

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A stove-heater without a water heater When installing a stove-heater without a water heater (Fig. 21), a metal box or a cast-iron boiler can be used as an impenetrable partition. The stones will heat up very quickly, since its surface is washed by hot

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Universal stove-heater designed by A. Suzdaltsev cast iron stove. The water heater is