The first task after installing the toilet in place and connecting it to the sewer system is to install the cistern fittings. From correct installation and the quality regulation of this plumbing equipment will depend on the smooth operation of the entire system. The fittings of the drain tank is a device that provides filling it with water after emptying during draining, automatic regulation of the amount of drained water and control of its overflow. How to properly install the tank fittings, read our article.

Drain tank valve device

The fittings for the toilet cistern consists of the following components:

• located at an angle of the drain;
• an overflow pipe installed on the side of the drain hole;
• valve covers with rubber;
• tank filling mechanism;
• drain button mechanism.

Before you set up the toilet fittings, consider its main components.

Tank filling mechanism

This device ensures that the toilet bowl is filled with water to a certain level. This mechanism includes:

• float fixture;
• stop valve.

A float attached to a metal or plastic lever moves up or down as the water level in the tank changes. When filling the tank with water, the float rises, reaching the maximum level. The lever connected to it closes the shut-off valve, and water does not enter the tank from the plumbing system. When draining the water, the float lowers, the lever opens the access of water from the pipe to the toilet bowl.

Water drain mechanism (bleed mechanism)

The flush mechanism is designed to access water from the tank directly into the toilet. Components of the descent mechanism:

• drain siphon;
• release lever (handle).

The siphon hermetically closes the drain hole, preventing water leakage. There are several types of siphons. The simplest type of drain siphon is the familiar "pear" - a rubber cylinder, similar in shape to a plunger. The device for draining water into the toilet bowl (raising the “pear”) most often is either a lever located on the side of the tank, or a handle on the lid, which must be pulled up to flush the water. More modern version descender - a button that is located on the front wall of the tank. Such a mechanism is most often installed on tanks that are built into the wall.

Installation and adjustment of fittings

After installing the toilet bowl in the allotted place and then connecting the toilet bowl to the sewerage system, the next step is to install the cistern fittings: the video, offered as a small instruction, will help to carry out this work correctly.

Installation of toilet cistern fittings

Let's consider the installation technology of the fittings of the toilet bowl:

1. Put a rubber gasket on the drain mechanism.
2. Install the mechanism in the tank, fasten with a plastic nut.
3. Put plastic or iron (depending on configuration) washers on the fixing bolts and rubber gaskets. Insert screws into holes. On the other hand, put on a plastic washer and tighten the nut.
4. Slide a rubber o-ring over the plastic nut. If a new ring is used, sealing is not required. If a ring that has already been in use was used, all joints should be thoroughly lubricated with sealant.

Pro tip: Careful inspection of all structural details can reveal minor casting defects. In this case, you will also need to use a sealant. The installation site of the sealing ring must also be smeared with a layer of sealant, having previously cleaned it.

1. Install the cistern on the toilet seat and secure it with nuts.
2. Attach the filling mechanism. Attach the sleeve from the water pipe.
3. Put the tank cap back in place. Screw on the drain button.

Pro tip: Nothing should be additionally wound on the thread of the mounted mechanism to drain the water when putting on the sleeve. Try not to skew, so as not to strip the threads and spoil the part.

Armature adjustment

Installing a toilet and cistern should not cause much difficulty. But in some cases, additional adjustment of the toilet fittings may be necessary. So, to adjust the height of the drain valve:

1. Disconnect the rod from the overflow pipe.
2. Press out the cup retainer.
3. Move up or down the rack.

The water level in the barrel is adjusted as follows:

1. Adjust the position of the glass - raise or lower it along the guide, leaving a distance from the top of the glass to the upper edge of the tank at least 45 mm.
2. Install the overflow pipe 20 mm above the maximum water level and 70 mm below the top level of the rack.

To adjust the small flush, the small flush float must be moved up or down relative to the overflow tube. How to set up a full flush? Move the shutter (up or down) relative to the glass.

Adjusting the toilet fittings for full or low flush implies that moving the float or damper down increases the flow of drained water.

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• Kinds
• Choice
• Mounting
• Finishing
• Repair
• Installation
• Device
• Cleaning

Toilet device

The design of the toilet bowl should be both comfortable (suitable for all family members in height) and easy to clean.

The ease of use of the toilet bowl and all its components depends on the type of structure: the flush complex, the shape of the bowl, and so on.

Each of these parameters will be described in more detail below.

Among the designs of toilet bowls, the following features can be conditionally distinguished:

• toilet cistern mechanism;
• toilet flush complex;
• release device;
• toilet bowl decor.

The mechanism of the drain tank in the design of the toilet bowl: general information

Scheme of the structure and connection of the toilet bowl.

The functioning of the toilet cistern directly depends on the valves that are located inside it. The various types of construction of this element in the cistern largely affect the features of the toilet bowl.

Contains 2 main fittings:

1. Responsible for the collection of water in the drain tank (complex for the collection of water in the drain tank).
2. Responsible for flushing water directly into the toilet (drain).

The fittings that are responsible for collecting water in the tank can be of 2 types:

1. For collecting water in the upper area of ​​the tank. A similar method of placing valves can be found in the cheapest domestic-style toilet bowls. This option of filling the tank creates a decent amount of noise.
2. An armature that draws water into the lower area of ​​the toilet flush tank. This tank filling complex can be found in the line of toilet bowls, both imported and domestic. This arrangement of valves creates much less noise.

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Materials for creating toilet bowls

Today, toilet bowls are made from a variety of materials: in addition to standard porcelain and faience types, there are steel, plastic, glass, cast iron and even gold. The main variations of sanitary ceramics are presented in the form of porcelain and faience, which are made on the basis of the same raw materials. The main difference between them is the ratio of different raw materials and their processing technology, which leads to a variety of physical qualities of the manufactured materials.

Faience is familiar to many, since it was he who was often produced during the Soviet era. The disadvantages of this material include a large percentage of porosity and significant water absorption (in the region of 9-12%). In view of this substance, it is usually covered on top with a layer of glaze, which not only performs a decorative function, but also provides protection to the shell walls from aggressive cleaning solutions. The result is more efficient cleaning when flushing. The service life of toilet bowls made on the basis of faience is approximately 30 years.

Porcelain is created only from the best clay grades. Thus, the material is denser and less porous. Moreover, it practically does not absorb water (0.8%). High-quality porcelain products keep the glaze smooth for an order of magnitude longer, so it is much easier to keep them clean. It is porcelain that is given the greatest preference today. In the case of sufficiently careful operation, porcelain products will be able to serve their owners in the region of 50 years.

Structures created using other materials (glass, marble, wood, not to mention semi-precious and precious stones), it is almost impossible to meet on the world market in everyday sale. These items are made to order.

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Toilet flush device: features of work

The drain design is activated by pressing a special button or pulling the stem. The latter is found only in low-cost domestic toilets.

The most common drain mechanism is push-button. This water drain device is a button equipped with a lever, which is located in the design of the toilet bowl. The button can be placed either on the cistern lid or on the wall (in the case of a concealed cistern design).

The toilet trigger, which is activated by pressing a special button, can be of single- and dual-mode types.

The second case involves the descent of absolutely all the water from the tank. The first type of device, in turn, removes only half of the tank, thereby saving water.

A two-mode complex for draining water can also be represented by one button, where the amount of water drained directly depends on the pressure on the button.

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Toilet flush complexes: classification

There are 2 toilet flush complexes: circular (shower) and horizontal (cascade).

Horizontal descent is a classic system for supplying water to the toilet bowl. In this case, the water washes the bowl in a continuous stream, but only one side of it.

This system is less expensive, unlike a shower flush, and stands out among others for a long service life. Among the disadvantages of a horizontal flush, it is worth highlighting low interest tightness, since the water flow does not cover the entire capacity of the bowl. As a result, you need to perform more often. Among other things, the horizontal type of flush consumes water uneconomically.

Circular flush implies a uniform supply of water around the entire perimeter of the toilet structure. Moreover, the jets of water can be directed both at an angle to the rim of the toilet, and straight.

This toilet flush device stands out from others with minimal noise, economical water consumption and excellent cleaning qualities.

The disadvantage of such toilets is the rather high cost than similar designs with a horizontal descent. In addition, the small diameter of the holes through which water is supplied increases the risk of deterioration in the quality of the flush. This can happen due to the high degree of hardness of the water, which clogs these holes over time. Thus, if water of increased hardness is supplied to the apartment, one should choose either a large diameter of the holes in the toilet bowl with a circular flush complex, or a horizontal type of flush.

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Descent of the toilet into the sewer

The flushing of the toilet directly depends on the location sewer pipe Houses.

The release of the toilet bowl can be conditionally divided into 3 main types:

1. Vertical.
2. Oblique with a slope of 30-45 °.
3. Horizontal release.

The latter can be found in houses modern layout(many houses of the post-perestroika period of time).

The sewer complex, equipped with toilet bowls with a vertical outlet, can mostly be found in apartments built in the first half of the 20th century (Stalinist houses).

In houses built in the second half of the 20th century (Brezhnevka and Khrushchev), a sewerage complex is provided specifically for an oblique type of outlet.

Before purchasing a toilet, you should definitely clarify which outlet of the sewer pipe is present in the house.

Toilets with oblique and horizontal outlets are more versatile designs, as they allow access to sewer risers in any position. To do this, you need to purchase specialized adapter pipes. The vertical type of descent allows you to place the toilet close to the wall.

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Toilet flush options

The current classification of tanks for descent is much more diverse than it was 20 years ago. In order not to get lost in such a wide variety, it would not be superfluous to familiarize yourself with a similar plumbing fixture and its variations.

According to the type of materials used, tanks can be:

• metal (more often cast iron) - durable, but the external design is not highly aesthetic;
• plastic (plastic) - the lightest among all the others, very easy to install, but subject to mechanical damage;
• ceramic - safe, easy to install, have a huge range of different colors and shapes.

By type of mechanism for descent:

1. Side - represent a chain (rope) equipped on the tank, which, in turn, is located at a small height from the toilet; principle of operation drain device in this case, the following: the rope pulls the lever, and on the back shoulder the box with the gasket rises slightly, and the water passes into the drain pipe.
2. Upper - a head or a button located on top of the cover on the central part; here, water passes into the drain pipe only after pressing the necessary button or lifting the rod (rod) up; at the moment of pressing the pear of rubber rises from the so-called saddle and passes the water flow.

By type of descent device:

• mechanical - control over everything is carried out without user intervention;
• manual - the barrel valve opens at the request of the owner; at the same time, it is possible to control the volume of liquid that enters the tank.

1. The tank can be located almost under the flow itself, connecting to the toilet bowl through a long armature. This option allows you to achieve maximum water pressure during the descent, but outwardly it does not look very aesthetically pleasing with the current realities of design.
2. The tank is fixed directly on the toilet bowl. The option is quite compact, suitable for a variety of repair work.
3. The drain tank is built into the wall structure. This method makes it possible to free up additional space in the toilet room, and it looks very diligent and quite aesthetically pleasing. A significant disadvantage, however, is the complexity of the installation and further repair work.

Any toilet bowl, from the point of view of sanitary equipment, is a part of the toilet bowl, which is necessary to maintain a certain level of water. The water accumulated in the device is used for flushing, and the built-in mechanism is responsible for dosing the flush and limiting the capacity of the container.

A significant part of modern tanks is equipped with a push-button system. One or two buttons are quite often characterized by interchangeability without compromising performance characteristics. How does a toilet flush tank with a button or two work?

The action of any tank is based on the functioning of the systems for collecting and draining water. The set is due to the operation of the intake system, which regulates the progressive filling. The inlet, regardless of the type of drain equipment, is of the same type and consists of a float that allows you to adjust the intensity of filling the system with water.

In the process of draining water, another valve is involved, which allows you to control this process. This design is varied. Certain positions of the outlet valves make it possible use dual mode and emergency drain.

One button

You can see a diagram of a toilet with a button in this illustration:

Plastic or metal float regulates the opening process ball valve which helps water flow into the tank. The volume of incoming water is controlled by a diaphragm, which is equipped with a special lever device that regulates the pressure of the water jet.

Drain is regulated by means of a siphon, whose location is the central part. To fix the siphon to the outlet system, a “saddle” is used. A drain button is fixed on top of the entire structure.

A standard siphon can be provided with a split design that allows perform the cleaning process on the upper part only, and the lower part is simply washed.

With two buttons

Invisible elements of the two-button system are presented plug, float valve and drain fitting. The visible part of the design includes a cover and buttons.

The cistern device with two buttons is different high level economy. Water consumption is reduced due to the possibility to provide a minimum drain or completely empty the volume.

An illiterate installation provokes the operation of two buttons as one, with the same volume of drain. A properly installed mechanism is characterized by a small drain at the level of 2-4 liters, and about 6-8 liters of water are spent on a large drain.

The difference from the design of the toilet cistern with one button lies solely in the design of the outlet valve.

It is impractical to install such fittings on small devices. If replacement is necessary, any hydraulic system of a suitable size can be used.

The principle of operation of the drain mechanism

The operation of this mechanism begins with pressing a button that is associated with the internal elements of the drain system. Up to this point, the tank is already filled with water to a regulated level and the entire volume is held by a rubber bulb. Such material contributes to a fairly tight fit to the saddle. Pressing the button causes a pull that repels the bag from which the drain hole opens.

After returning the button to its original position, the hollow and air-filled pear does not immediately return to its place. As it fills with water, the pear becomes heavier, lowers and fits tightly on the saddle. However, for the full functioning of the pear, a special pipe is important, which regulates the action of various forces on this rubber element.

Comparing the advantages and disadvantages of both options

One-button drain hydraulic systems belong to the category the most popular. Automatic two-button mechanisms are only gaining momentum in popularity.

The "small drain" hydraulic system is undeservedly underestimated. However, modern views tanks are equipped with a special element - an auger that makes the water fall down intensively and powerfully, which positively affects the cleanliness of the toilet bowl.

If desired, there is a need to purchase economical one-button drain tanks in which water flow control is carried out using the Aqua-stop design. Profitability is due to the alternation of pressures: the first pressing contributes to the drain, and the second - stops this process.

Flushing tanks operating in a dual-mode drain save almost twenty cubic meters of water per year, which significantly affects the payment costs. Indeed, it should be taken into account that modern two-button mechanisms are more expensive than the classic one-button version, but all costs quickly pay off.

The main disadvantage of two-button products is the need to perform a number of rather complex work adjusting and finishing character, which makes self-assembly rather difficult.

Types of major breakdowns

Most frequent breakdowns during the operation of toilets occur in the process of failures in the functioning of the systems for collecting and draining water. Imbalance contributes the formation of leaks of varying intensity. Such problems are solved by replacing separate parts or the entire system kit.

It should be remembered that the durability of the inlet elements directly depends on the quality characteristics of the incoming water. Experienced Specialists recommended to install filters.

Minor failures include broken buttons. In most cases, such failures can be eliminated by flushing the membrane to remove blockage. Such manipulation belongs to the category of simple and is easily performed independently.

In addition, the most common malfunctions include:

1. Inability to fill the tank.
   All incoming water flows out through the drain or overflows through the internal overflow. This situation most often occurs when the pear does not fit tightly to the drain, or if the rubber part of this element has worn out.
   In two-button systems, water can constantly leak out if the gasket or membrane fails. If a leak is observed at the junction of the supply pipe and the tank, the most likely cause of the problems is damage to the seal.
2. Toilet flush button not working.
   The problem may be due to the separation of the lever mechanism of the drain tank from the button and the release of the hooks from the attachment points.

Especially often there are problems with devices with a lower water supply which may be due to the following circumstances:

• insufficient water pressure under the conditions of the installed membrane filling valve, stimulating a constant flow into the tank;
• incorrect position of the inlet valve at which the elements are in contact with the walls of the device;
• float position not adjusted or violated which causes water to flow through the overflow pipe into the toilet bowl.

The most serious breakdowns are impractical to carry out on your own. Especially if there is a need to change the entire trigger valve system. A timely call to a plumber can save you from quite serious consequences and will certainly save time and effort.

A non-functioning toilet can be quite a problem, especially in a house where a large family lives. The services of plumbers are now expensive, and the arrival of a specialist sometimes has to wait for hours. Why not try to fix the problem yourself?

The design of this useful device is not particularly complex. Very often, the toilet flush mechanism becomes the cause of the malfunction. It is necessary to study its device, the principle of operation, as well as get acquainted with the most common breakdowns and the procedure for their elimination.

Toilet bowls and cisterns for them are quite diverse in design, construction, installation method, etc. There are standard "compacts", mounted models in which the tank is installed directly into the wall, as well as models with a free-standing tank.

The latter, however, are becoming less and less common, since such “retro” class plumbing is considered obsolete.

This diagram clearly shows the device of the float mechanism in the toilet bowl. When the float reaches the top position, the piston shuts off the water supply

But the drain mechanism inside the tank is of only two types, and the principle of operation in both cases is almost the same. It all depends on the type of water supply to the tank, which can be side or bottom.

Side water supply is the most common option. A significant part of the toilet bowls of domestic production is arranged in this way. They are simple, reliable in operation, but during the supply of water to the tank chamber they produce a characteristic noise.

In order to eliminate this drawback, models of tanks were created in which water is supplied from below. In this case, the filling of the container is made with a much smaller number of sounds, but the drain in such tanks is designed a little differently.

This figure clearly shows the internal structure of a conventional toilet bowl, in which water is supplied from the side.

The drain mechanism can be conditionally divided into two parts: a device that regulates the flow of water into the tank chamber, as well as a mechanism by which the tank is emptied, i.e. flushing is carried out. In addition, there must be a protective element in the tank - an overflow tube.

AT different models the internal filling of the tank may look different, but functionally it is always three main elements: a float valve, a flush and a protective overflow.

The flow of water into the tank is controlled by a special float valve. It consists of the following elements:

• a float that moves freely on the surface of the water;
• a rod with which the water supply from the plumbing system is turned on / off;
• lever that connects these two elements.

It works like this: when, after flushing, the water level in the tank drops, the float goes down, the lever transfers force to the bar, the water supply opens, and the tank begins to fill. When the float rises along with the water to the maximum level, the rod closes the water pipe and the flow of water stops.

The simplicity of the valve design explains its high reliability and our lack of knowledge of where, what and when to repair. It just works, that's all.

A vertical tube is often attached to the float valve of a tank with a side water supply. This element is necessary so that less noise is produced when water is supplied to the tank.

The second part of the drain mechanism is the flush itself. It consists of a valve that prevents water from flowing out of the tank, as well as a rod with which this valve is opened. A pear-shaped rubber element is usually used as a valve.

Such a mechanism is controlled using a button, a ball that needs to be pulled up, or a rope that is pulled down. Last option used only in free-standing “retro” tanks, which are extremely rare.

When the button is pressed, the valve opens and a significant amount of water flows into the toilet, performing the task for which this mechanism was designed.

The fittings of the tank with a lower water supply outwardly differ from the contents of domestic models, but the principle of its operation is almost the same

When the water is completely drained, the valve drops down and securely closes the outlet. At this moment, the float valve is activated, and water begins to flow into the tank. Another useful element is usually built into the drain system - an overflow tube. It prevents water from flowing over the edge of the tank.

This can happen if the float valve breaks down, if the water has not been shut off even after reaching the maximum level. Sometimes the overflow tube is not mounted in the drain valve mechanism, but is installed separately. In models with a bottom water supply, the float mechanism looks a little different, but the principle of its operation is almost the same as in a tank with a side water supply.

The device and the principle of operation of the drain mechanism are clearly presented in the following video:

Adjusting the amount of water in the tank

The maximum amount of water in the tank is adjusted by changing the length of the lever to which the float is attached. If the role of such a lever is performed by a piece of thick wire (this is still found in older models), it can simply be bent up or down, depending on whether you need to make the amount of water in the tank more or less.

The higher the position of the float in the tank, the more water will flow into the tank.

But instead of wire modern models Increasingly, plastic elements are used, which, of course, cannot be bent. To change the position of the float, it is simply shifted along the plastic shoulder, placing it closer to the water supply or further away from it.

The closer the float is to the valve, the less water goes into the tank. To attach the float, a latch is usually used, which must be squeezed out in order to move this element. Sometimes used threaded connection, it is usually not difficult to unscrew and then tighten.

In bottom-flush toilets, the arm is vertical, making it even easier to adjust the water level. The float is simply moved up or down the lever. Its position will correspond to the required water level.

Such simple manipulations will help to improve the performance of the tank, increase the efficiency of flushing and save a significant amount of water.

The procedure for installing the drain mechanism of the tank

In the process of installing a toilet bowl, it usually becomes necessary to assemble and install a flush mechanism as well. An installation for a built-in toilet is usually supplied already assembled, but you will have to work hard on assembling a compact. Sometimes in the instructions there is a recommendation to first assemble and put the device inside the tank, and then mount the tank on the bowl, but practice shows that this is not always convenient.

Sometimes the drain elements block access to the tank mounting bolts, which greatly complicates the installation. Therefore, it makes sense to first put the tank and fix it, and then proceed with the assembly and installation of the “stuffing” of the tank.

• First, a special protective gasket is installed on the thread of the drain mechanism.
• The construction with the gasket is placed in the drain hole.
• The gasket is fixed with a special plastic nut, which should be carefully but tightly tightened.
• The drain hole on the toilet bowl is protected by another gasket.
• The tank is placed on the toilet bowl and secured with tie bolts, under which there should also be small rubber gaskets to protect against leaks.
• Install the water supply.
• Connect it to the plumbing system.

After that, you can close the tank with a lid, install the flush controls (button, rod, etc.) and the installation of the toilet bowl can be considered complete.

As a rule, malfunctions are associated with poor-quality production of components or simply outdated parts. Most often, the drain mechanism of the tank causes three types of trouble to its owners:

• Water does not enter the tank.
• Water pours out of the tank and flows onto the floor.
• Water enters the tank, but constantly flows into the toilet, and the tank remains empty or only partially filled.

To find out the cause of the breakdown, usually the inside of the tank has to be removed, disassembled, inspected and repaired. Of course, before starting any repair operations with the tank, you need to turn off the flow of water to the toilet.

This is not difficult to do if, during the installation of the plumbing system, an appropriate shut-off valve was provided.

An important structural element is the tank lid

Models in which flushing is carried out using a button, single or double, are very convenient and popular. However, such a cover must be removed very carefully so as not to damage the control mechanism. Around the button is a special retaining ring.

First you need to carefully unscrew it. Usually this element is made of plastic, with excessive pressure, the ring may burst.

To remove the retaining ring from the tank cap, press the button and carefully unscrew it. You can use a special slot on its inside

After the ring is removed, the cover must be carefully removed. Sometimes when you press the button, flushing is not performed. Almost always this is caused by the disconnection of the hooks connecting the button and the flush mechanism. It is enough to eliminate the offset so that the tank begins to work normally.

If the buttons sink, this also indicates their incorrect position. After the offset is eliminated, the mechanism will start to work correctly.

If water does not enter the tank, the problem is most likely in the water supply mechanism. It's either clogged or broken. It is necessary to disassemble this part of the device and check if there is any dirt inside. It is usually sufficient to flush the valve or remove deposits inside water pipe and then install the valve again to get rid of the problem.

If water does not enter the tank, the inlet valve of the device should be disassembled and cleaned. You may need to clean the water pipe (hose)

The opening in the valve is very narrow and clogs easily. To clean it, they usually use a piece of wire or a needle. To flush the water pipe, you need to briefly open the stopcock. After the valve is screwed back on and the mechanism is installed, the water is released to check the operation of the system.

If the quality of tap water is low, it makes sense to think about installing a protective filter. This measure will increase the life of plumbing in the house.

Pear problems

If water constantly flows out of the tank into the toilet, then there are problems with the rubber bulb that blocks the drain hole. Either it is too light and needs weighting, or it is leaky and a complete replacement of this element is necessary.

To determine the nature of the problem, you should remove the tank cover and press the flush mechanism from above. At the same time, a sufficient amount of water must remain in the tank.

To weight the fittings of a tank with a bottom water supply, place a suitable weighting agent in its lower part, as shown in the figure.

If the water continues to flow under significant pressure, then the pear is damaged. You should perform the following operations:

• Shut off the water supply.
• Move the float to the top position.
• Remove the flush mechanism.
• Remove pear.
• Purchase an element of a similar size and shape in a store.
• Set the pear in place.
• Install the flush device.
• Check system operation.

If there is a choice, it is worth giving preference to a pear made of more elastic rubber, this will ensure its better fit to the drain hole.

Sometimes a layer of sealant allows you to solve the problem with a leaky pear, but this is a temporary measure, soon the problem will arise again.

The rubber valve (pear) that closes the drain hole in the tank wears out over time and may require weighting or replacement

If, when pressing on the mechanism, the leakage is eliminated, it is necessary to weight the pear. For this, various weighting agents are used: lead elements, several bolts, a narrow nylon bag with sand, etc.

The pear is removed, and the weighting agent is placed above it, evenly distributing it around the nozzle. Then the pear is set in place.

If the tank is leaking

If water flows directly from the tank to the floor, then one or more gaskets covering its mounting holes are out of order and need to be replaced. This will require quite a large-scale work:

• First, remove the water from the tank.
• Then dismantle its internal content.
• After that, unscrew the fixing bolts.
• The tank is carefully removed from the toilet bowl.
• Worn rubber pads are removed.
• All connections are thoroughly cleaned of contaminants.
• The tank is reinstalled using new gaskets.

Even if only one gasket is leaky, it is recommended to replace all of them immediately, since the remaining elements were subjected to the same destructive effect and may soon fail.

The operations for dismantling and assembling the tank are quite laborious, and such foresight will eliminate the need to do this work several times.

If one of the tank gaskets is worn and leaking, it is recommended to replace all similar gaskets, since the likelihood of early leaks in these places is very high.

Sometimes the gaskets are fine, and water flows over the edge of the tank. Most likely, the problem is a breakdown of the overflow system. It needs to be either cleaned or completely replaced. It will help to solve the problem and the correct adjustment of the position of the float. This procedure has already been described above.

The gasket located at the inlet of the tank can also leak. It must be replaced in the same way. All joints should be carefully sealed to prevent such breakdowns in the future. At the end of the work, you need to fill and empty the tank several times to make sure there are no leaks.

Features of breakdowns in tanks with a lower water supply

When operating such a device, the same problems may arise as in a side-feed tank. They are dealt with in the same way. But there are also differences. For example, the reason for the lack of water in the tank may be insufficient water pressure in the plumbing system at home.

Diaphragm-type valves are sensitive to this problem. If the water pressure in the system can drop to the level of 0.05 MPa, it is better to choose a device with a stem valve.

In toilets with bottom water supply water hose located next to the bolt that secures the cistern to the toilet bowl

The displacement of the elements of the intake mechanism is another common reason for the lack of water in the tank. Even when installing a toilet with a bottom water supply, you should pay attention to this point.

If the elements of the mechanism touch the walls of the tank or the drain mechanism, then they are not installed correctly. To solve the problem, it is enough to return the valve and float to the correct position.

Regardless of the model and brand of the toilet cistern, the fundamental purpose of the cistern shut-off valves is unchanged:

• open the water supply if it is empty;
• turn off the water when filling it.

The cistern fitting kit consists of the following items:

• drain mechanism (it includes a siphon with a lid and a sealed gasket between drain pipe and cistern);
• jet adjustment lever (connected to the water pipe by means of a ball valve);
• float (adjusts the filling level of the tank). Connected to the drain mechanism with a spoke.

The design of the mechanisms for draining and filling the tank depends on the type of installation.

Type 1- a tank suspended high above the toilet. This type is familiar to almost every inhabitant of our country. Not too pretentious in appearance, it nevertheless has undeniable advantages:

• simplicity of design (which makes it easy to repair it on your own);
• the high speed with which the flow of ode rushes from a height into the toilet bowl.

Type 2- a drain tank installed on the toilet shelf. Most modern apartments and public institutions use this type of device.

Type 3- a tank built into the wall. It looks more like a thick-walled polyethylene canister.

All manipulations to replace the fittings of such a tank are performed through the hole in the drain button.

In order to successfully install a toilet or bidet, you need to know what it should be, this is necessary so that the pipes do not clog and wear out ahead of time. The most important and up-to-date information.

If the toilet "does not flow", then the water consumption is minimal. However, in addition to paying for water, it is necessary to check water meters regularly. About the cost, conditions and frequency of this procedure, there are many useful tips how to save on checking meters!

Drainer mechanism ^

It is hardly necessary to consider in our time the installation of drain fittings for suspended structures: they have long lost their relevance.

Therefore, in the future we will only talk about the valves of the most common types - cisterns installed directly on the toilet bowls.

According to the method of actuating the drain device, the mechanisms are divided into two groups:

1. exhaust (rod). In order to activate the device of this group, it is necessary to raise the top of the rod that locks the drain hole with the handle.

   In modern models of tanks, such a mechanism is practically not found. It was preserved only in fairly old models;

2. push (button). The mechanisms of this group are divided, in turn, into two subgroups:

1. Croydon valve. It consists of a body, an axis of the float lever, a piston and a seat. The float arm drives the piston.

   The piston movement in Croydon valves is vertical. This design is installed in old-style tanks.

2. piston valve. In this design, the axis of the float lever is fixed in a cotter pin, split in two.

   Moving, the lever causes the piston to move in a horizontal direction. The piston, in contact periodically with the saddle, regulates the flow of water into the tank.

   A gasket is mounted at the end of the piston, which blocks the water flow at the moment the piston presses on the seat. Tanks with piston valves are in many Russian apartments.

3. diaphragm valve. In this type of design, a membrane (rubber or silicone) is installed instead of a piston gasket.

   The plastic piston, moving under the action of a lever, also moves the membrane. It blocks the water inlet. The diaphragm valve is the latest advancement in cistern production.

In addition to plumbing, water can be used for additional space heating. Recently, warm water floors are gaining popularity, creating an optimal microclimate in the apartment. Read about how this can be organized in the article, this is not such an expensive pleasure, but the benefits of keeping your feet constantly warm are undeniable!

Summer water outages are not terrible if you have a water heater. One of the most popular companies in Russia is the Termex company, read about its water heaters with a capacity of 80 liters or more, let it always be comfortable in your home.

Tank filling method ^

The tank can be filled in two ways:

• through the side water supply;
• through the bottom water supply.

The cistern with side inlet fills with water noisily while at the bottom supply, water fills the tank almost silently.

But many manufacturers began to supplement the fittings of the tank with a side supply with a drain pipe. It is made of soft plastic and sends a jet of water to the lower area of ​​the tank.

Thanks to this addition, drain cisterns with a lateral supply have ceased to make noise.

In what cases does the question arise about the replacement of reinforcement ^

Drain cisterns entering retail chains, as a rule, are equipped with the necessary set of fittings.

And the majority of users are not interested in what mechanisms ensure the normal functioning of the device.

But time passes, and the tank ceases to cope with its task. It is at this moment that the user has to get acquainted with his device, solve the problem of acquiring spare parts.

Moreover, the problem is not that they are difficult to buy, but how to buy a quality product.

The quality of the cistern fittings plays a huge role in its normal operation.

It is faulty mechanisms that cause various problems. For example, water begins to seep into the toilet bowl, which is why the snow-white surface of the toilet bowl covered with red streaks.

For more information about the types, cost, sizes of toilets and bidets, what is typical, installation methods and selection tips, read only on our website.

Sewer pipes require periodic cleaning. About cleaning methods, cost, special devices for this procedure and much more, let your sewer system function as it should.

Or the flushing mechanism ceases to control the volume of flushed water. Such troubles can occur for various reasons, but the most common ones are as follows:

• low quality of plastic elements of mechanisms leads to their distortion. A too sharp drop in water temperature can give the same effect, even if high-quality fittings are installed in the tank;
• many import production mechanisms(they use diaphragm float valves) can't stand the quality of our water: rigid, having a large number of impurities (such as chlorine). For guard imported equipment sometimes has to be installed coarse filters and fine cleaning at the entrance of the water pipe to the apartment;
• when using low quality materials for the manufacture of cistern fittings, it is subjected to premature aging and abrasion.

So, in what cases does it become necessary to replace the fittings:

• continuous flow of water into the tank. Such an "accident" can happen due to a misalignment of the float lever.

  But if nothing has changed after adjusting it, then the float is damaged: it lets water in, becomes heavier from this and sinks to the bottom. In this case, you will have to purchase a new float.

  It costs quite a bit - just about 4 rubles. But in practice, in the event of a float failure change the entire float valve. This node costs an average 200 - 300 rubles.

• Continuous flow of water into the toilet. There is only one reason for this - the membrane of the drain tank siphon is damaged. In this case, there is only one way out: replacing the membrane.

The cost of this element depends on the method of its manufacture:

• stamped membranes stand 6 rubles;
• molded with vulcanization 30 rubles.

Many users often think: is it worth replacing individual elements of tank fittings?

After all, if the mechanism begins to wear out, then one breakdown will be followed by others. It is safer to replace the entire set of fittings.

In addition, it is very difficult to find, say, a membrane or a float for an imported cistern. BUT replacing a part with a "non-native" one often does not lead to the expected result.

If you decide to replace the valve set in the cistern. Ask price ^

The cost of a set of fittings for a Polish-made Cersanit tank with a lower water supply is 650 rubles. The kit includes:

• outlet valve;
• filling valve;
• ring sealing;
• fitting plastic BAS 24;
• button and sleeve are metallized.

Fittings for the Vidima cistern 1250 rubles. But for products of this brand membrane can be ordered separately. It will cost in 300 rubles.

Drainage device for the Hybner cistern with stop function costs 1800 rubles.

The drain valve of a tank of the Spanish production of Jika costs 2800 rubles. The product is available in two versions:

• button height is short;
• button height increased.

The Jika flush valve can be used in the ROCA and JIKA flush cisterns of the collections:

• dama senso;
• victoria;
• vega etc.

Reinforcement of domestic production is much cheaper. For example, armature "way"(produced in Pskov) will cost the buyer from 250 to 340 rubles.

Moreover, the manufacturer claims that all plastic elements are made from virgin polypropylene, and shut-off valves are produced with the addition of natural rubber.

Interesting options are offered by the Ryazan company Center for Heating Equipment and Plumbing. They produce fittings brand "RBM" with three types of valves:

• direct action;
• membrane;
• backpressure.

They can be used in tanks with both side and bottom water supply. They have models with stock and push-button start mechanisms.

Universal Design:

• with rod mechanism from 99 rubles;
• with diaphragm backpressure valve (push-button) from 205 rubles.

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11 responses to the article“ What you need to know about fittings for the toilet cistern: characteristics, firms, prices”

1. Oksana

   It’s even strange that a tank suspended high above the toilet bowl is not in fashion now, yet it seems that it really is the most efficient, after all, the speed of the water flow is enough important factor. I even wanted to do this at home, I will have to find out if it is possible to do this now, otherwise I recently went to a plumbing store, but somehow I didn’t see this.

2. Anna

   I really like the hidden toilet barrels that are built into the hay. Only one button is visible on the face. Unfortunately, such a system is very expensive, and not everyone can afford it. Recently, I began to think about the economy of the toilet bowl drain barrel. Today, this is a very topical issue for everyone. Are there systems that allow you to save water?