How to install a toilet with your own hands: installation steps and useful tips. How to install and connect a toilet to the sewer: instructions and video How to install a floor-standing toilet with your own hands

Sooner or later there is a need to change the plumbing. Recently, many owners prefer to do the installation work on their own. Further in the article we will deal with how to properly install the toilet.

general information

Before you install the toilet with your own hands, you must select it. The main criterion in this matter will be the size of the room. So, for a typical bathroom, a "compact" toilet bowl model of imported or domestic production is suitable. Experts recommend purchasing a product similar to the one that stood before or with the same type of fastening system. It must be said that the assembly different types toilets are different. As a rule, the differences consist in the need to connect special equipment and additional functions. Modern models are equipped with enough detailed instructions in different languages, including Russian.

Important Points

Before purchasing a new toilet, you should carefully inspect the old product. You need to pay attention to:

• Release angle. Released today various models. The angle can be oblique, straight or vertical. You should measure the height of the outlet to the floor. If the output does not match in the model of the selected product, it will be possible to additionally purchase a drain transitional corrugation.
• Water connection. Traditionally, a bottom or side eyeliner is used. A flexible hose is installed. When choosing a new plumbing fixture, you should consider the length of the liner. Before installing the toilet, you should purchase a new hose.
• Mounting method. An old toilet can be fixed to the floor with two bolts. In this case, you need to purchase another set of fasteners. In some bathrooms, the appliance is cemented into the surface. In this case, it will be necessary to break the floor screed until a wood insert appears.

Before you install the toilet with your own hands, you should also check the method of blocking the water supply to the tank - from a common riser or locally. In the first case, you will have to contact local plumbers. It is also necessary to assess the condition of the sewer and water pipes throughout the apartment. It is possible that before you install the toilet, you will need to replace any elements. Before starting work, prepare the following tools:

• Drill and drill with a diameter of 10.
• Hammer.
• To assemble the tank - 2 wrenches.
• Silicone sealant.

Preparation for dismantling

Before you install the toilet with your own hands, you should remove the old product. Dismantling is carried out in several stages:

Dismantling

First of all, remove the mount to the floor. bolts (if old toilet screwed) are unscrewed. If the toilet is filled with cement, then the screed breaks if possible. If this is difficult to do, you will have to hit the plumbing object at the fixation points. After the toilet is removed, it must be tilted back. This is necessary in order to drain the remaining water from the cavities. Next, you need to disconnect the socket. The corrugation is simply removed. If a cast-iron or plastic socket is installed, then it must be disassembled to the first connection or cut to size. This is done after the toilet is removed.

Next, a corrugation should be inserted into the sewer socket. From the side of the joint, the element must be lubricated with sealant. The socket should be cleaned from the inside and also lubricated. The corrugation is inserted until it stops. After that, it is better to plug the entrance with an old rag or close it with a special plug to prevent the spread of sewer smell.

old mounts

If the floor is even (flooded with a screed or tiled), before installing the toilet on a tile or cement base, remove the old fixing elements. If the new product has similar fasteners, then the parts are installed in the old places. The old plastic dowels are drilled out. New ones are inserted in their place. Holes can be wider than dowels. In this case, the product will not be fixed securely. To prevent this, new holes should be prepared. The toilet assembly is attached to the place of fixation. Next, you should note the attachment points, taking into account the dimensions of the product, the length of the corrugation and the eyeliner. Dowels must be carefully hammered into the prepared holes. Items should fit easily. From proper preparation holes will depend on the further stability of the toilet.

Screed

If the plumbing product was flooded with mortar, then before installing the toilet bowl, it is necessary to make a new base. After removing the old product, the wooden lining will be visible in the recesses. The floor is leveled with a thick cement mortar, a toilet bowl is placed on top and screwed. After the screed dries, the bolts are finally tightened. One point should be taken into account here. Wood lining can rot over time. If the installation of the bar is not expected, then the screed is poured and allowed to dry for 2-3 days.

We install the toilet ourselves

A new product is attached to the prepared attachment point. Fasteners are twisted alternately - one and the second should be tightened evenly. The assembly of the product is carried out together with the drain tank. Usually, modern models made in the form of a compact design. In this case, the toilet and cistern are already connected to each other. When installing products equipped with automatic system collecting and draining water, usually there are no difficulties. However, attention should be paid to the assembly and adjustment of the float valve. This element is responsible for the volume and pressure of incoming water. The next step is to fix the flexible eyeliner. One end is screwed to the water pipe. Then you should open a faucet a little and drain a little water. This is necessary to flush the pipe from the inside. Next, the water closes, the second end of the hose is connected to the toilet. Here it is necessary to check the reliability of the rubber pads located under the nuts. Here's how to properly install a toilet.

System check

After completing the installation, you need to check the work. Water opens in the system. While it is being drawn into the tank, you should carefully inspect all the joints, check for leaks. Next, you need to drain the water several times. This checks that there are no leaks in sewer connections. After a few hours, everything should be carefully examined again. Here's how to install a toilet bowl with your own hands.

custom design

Often there is so little space in the bathrooms that many owners decide to install wall hung toilet. It should be noted that the installation of this product is somewhat more complicated than the one described above. How to install a wall hung toilet? More on this later.

General information

The product itself and the tank are mounted on the wall. For this, a supporting frame is used - a frame. It is usually mounted in a wall (in a niche) and closed decorative panel. The depth of the niche will depend on the width of the tank. In this case, technical gaps of 1-1.5 cm should also be taken into account. The sewer pipe, which also closes in a niche, must have a horizontal socket. If there is no possibility to equip a recess in the wall, then the frame is installed close to the surface. From above it can be sheathed with drywall and tiled like walls. The design of the hanging toilet bowl allows you to disguise all communications. Outside there will be only the product itself and the button for flushing.

Frame installation

The height of the assembled frame is usually 1.3-1.4 m. The lower part of the frame should be equipped with adjusting screws. Brackets are installed on top. With their help, the vertical position of the frame is adjusted. The drain button is located at a height of about a meter from the floor. The toilet seat should be at a level of about 40-42 cm. Partly the exact dimensions will depend on the preferences of the inhabitants of the apartment, partly on the model of the product itself and the position of the sewer pipe. As a rule, there is free space under the structure. It is quite convenient when cleaning the room. The supporting frame is installed strictly in a vertical position. For alignment, use the level. The future location of the frame can be determined using plumb lines. After that, holes are drilled in the wall and floor. Dowels are inserted into them. After that, the frame is installed and the horizontal position is adjusted with the screws. Vertical alignment is carried out by brackets. After giving the frame the required position, it is fixed with lock nuts.

The final stage of frame installation

How to install a tank? In this case, the element is not fixed to the toilet bowl. Installation is carried out on the frame. After installation, the tank should be connected with a flexible hose to the water pipe. Then it is necessary to adjust the elbow-shaped adapter in length. It connects the socket of the outlet pipe and the outlet of the toilet bowl. After that, the pins are mounted for fastening, in fact, the bowl of the plumbing fixture. Corners are installed around the perimeter of the frame. The lining will be fixed on them. All the necessary holes are cut out on its front surface - for pins, pipes and a release button.

Finishing the installation of the toilet

The product is attached to the selected place after the frame sheathing and other Finishing work. At the installation site of the toilet, the wall must be perfectly flat. A special paste must be applied to this place. White cement, Portland cement or white cement can be used as a leveling mixture. The paste should have the consistency of a thick slurry. A gasket is put on the pipes and pins (it is supplied in the kit), then the toilet bowl is hung and pressed tightly against the wall. At the same time, tighten the nuts. The protruding paste must be carefully removed. In conclusion, a few words must be said about how to install a toilet seat. Actually, there is nothing complicated here. The seat is usually attached with two bolts. Included with the product you can find these fixing elements.

With "straight" hands, most of the housework can be done independently. This category of work includes the installation of a toilet bowl. Knowing the sequence of actions, installation or replacement can be done by hand.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation - a task of medium complexity

Types of toilets

In this article, we will consider not the features of the flush or the shape of the bowl, but those design features that determine the list of installation work.

According to the installation method

The toilet itself consists of a sanitary bowl and a drain tank. The bowl can be floor mounted or suspended. If the bowl is hanging, then the tank goes concealed installation- built into the wall. In the case of a floor bowl, there are three options for fixing the tank: on a special shelf on the bowl (compact), separate, connected with a flexible hose, in the installation (hidden in the frame wall).

The advantage of a floor-standing toilet with a conventional flush cistern is ease of installation. It can be installed without starting repairs. The disadvantage is that compared to the hanging one, it takes up more space, looks more heavy. Accordingly, the installation of suspended models is complicated - it is necessary to fix the supporting structure - installation - in the wall. Perhaps it is only during the repair.

Release to the sewer

The choice of toilet for release into the sewer depends on the location of the sewer pipe. They happen:

If the pipe is in the floor, a vertical outlet is optimal. If the exit is in the floor, but is close to the wall, the oblique toilet is most convenient. Horizontal option universal. Using a corrugated pipe, it can be connected both to the wall and to the floor.

Installing a toilet bowl with a compact cistern (floor version)

They usually bring a toilet bowl, a cistern separately from the store, drain device and float. Before installing the toilet, everything except the float must be assembled.

What does a floor-standing toilet with a "compact" cistern consist of?

Assembly

The process begins with the installation of a drain device. It comes assembled, you only need to install it in a hole in the bottom of the tank. A rubber gasket is placed between the drain device and the tank.

FROM reverse side the plastic washer that comes with the kit is screwed onto the nozzle. It is tightened by hand, then - using a key, but very carefully, since it is easy to break the plastic. To prevent the drain device from spinning, it must be held by hand.

The next step is to install the mounting screws on the tank. They are also included in the standard package. These are long thin screws made of galvanized or stainless steel. They are inserted into two small holes at the bottom of the tank, rubber gaskets are put on, then washers, and only then nuts are screwed on.

Before installing the tank on the toilet bowl, a gasket (included) is placed under the tank. To prevent odors from leaking out of the sewer, it must be “planted” on a sealant. First we coat it on one side, put it on the toilet bowl, coat it on the other, put the tank.

We install the tank on the shelf of the bowl, passing the screws into the corresponding holes. We put washers, nuts on the screws from below, tighten them. At the same time, make sure that the tank is level.

Next, we put a float - a device for controlling the water level in the tank. There are two holes in the top of the tank. Here we insert the device into one of them. It is mounted on the side from which the water supply will be connected.

We wind a little flax on the outlet pipe, coat it with sanitary paste, install a corner (brass or stainless). Do not tighten the connection strongly, do not clog that the pipe is made of plastic.

Installing a tee

Floor mounting

The toilet is almost assembled, you can put it in place. The toilet bowl is connected to the sewerage by means of a corrugated adapter. At the ends, it has rubber seals that fit snugly into the pipes and onto the toilet outlet.

If the sewer pipe is plastic, the corrugation is simply inserted all the way. If the riser is cast iron, and not yet new, so that the smell does not seep through the microcracks, the pipe is cleaned to metal, washed and dried. A layer of sealant is applied around the circumference on a dry, clean metal (a little more in the lower part), then a corrugation is inserted. For greater certainty, you can go through the sealant on the outside of the joint.

In any case, we insert a corrugation into the sewer pipe.

The second end of the corrugation is put on the outlet of the toilet bowl. This is the connection of the toilet to the sewer. Everything is so simple. There is only one caveat. So that it can be removed later, the corrugation outlet and the outlet of the toilet bowl are lubricated with soap moistened with water, only then the bell is put on. If this is not done, it will be problematic to remove the toilet without damaging the corrugation. But you still have to drill holes for fasteners. It will be much more convenient to remove, rather than trying to move a partially fixed device.

Putting the corrugation on the outlet, we expose the toilet as it will stand. Having installed the lid on the tank, we check that there is a place for it. Next, you need to sit down, check the comfort of use, if necessary, correct the position. Then they take a pencil or marker, inserting it into the holes in the sole, mark the places for installing fasteners.

Having removed the toilet bowl, holes for the dowels are drilled in the marked places. If the kit comes with plastic fasteners, do not use it - it will break in a few days. It is necessary to immediately put powerful dowels.

If the toilet is installed on a tile so that it does not crack, it is better to pierce the glazed surface. They take a self-tapping screw, mark it, hit it with a hammer several times. This is what is called "pinching". Then they take a drill or a puncher and drill a tile, turning off the shock mode. After the tile is passed, you can turn on the perforation mode.

Put in holes plastic stoppers from dowels. They must be in the same plane with the floor. If there is a thicker edge, cut it off with a sharp knife.

We sweep the floor, removing dust at the installation site of the toilet. We put it in place, insert the dowels into the holes, twist them with the appropriate key. It is necessary to tighten the bolts alternately on one side, then on the other. Tighten until the toilet becomes firmly, without play.

The final touch is the connection to the water supply. Connect outlet water pipe with a tap installed on it with a corner on the tank, which was connected earlier. This requires a flexible hose. At its ends there are union nuts (American), so there will be no problems with fastening. Tighten well, but without fanaticism.

How to install a wall hung toilet with installation

To install hanging toilets, the outlet of the sewer pipe must be located near the wall. The specific distance from the wall is indicated by the manufacturer, but it should be small - from the far edge of the order of 13-15 cm. If the exit from the floor, there is a solution - a special overlay with which the drain is transferred closer to the wall.

The installation of a wall-hung toilet begins with fixing the stops to the wall to the installation frame. They are attached two at the top and at the bottom. With their help, the distance to the wall is adjusted, the frame rises and starts.

The upper stops are in the form of rods, adjustable with a socket wrench and a screwdriver. The bottom stops are more like plates, they are also adjusted with a socket wrench but with a side head.

The assembled frame is attached to the wall, its center is exposed above the middle sewer exit. The mark on the frame rises or falls to the height required by the manufacturer (there is a mark on the frame, also indicated in the passport, usually 1 meter).

With help bubble level the horizontal and vertical installation of the installation for the wall-mounted toilet bowl is checked.

Checking the horizontal

By adjusting the height of the stops, an equal distance from the wall, set by the manufacturer, is set. How convenient it is to do, look at the photo.

The exposed frame must be fixed to the wall. In appropriate places put marks with a pencil or marker, drill holes. They are equipped with plastic housing dowels. Most of the hanging toilets are imported, and they recommend planting the dowel bodies on the sealant. IN drilled hole some of the sealant is squeezed out, a dowel is inserted. Then, before installing the fastener itself, the sealant is applied to the plastic case.

In a fixed installation, you can put connecting elements - branch pipes, couplings. They are all included and simply snap into place.

Next, metal rods are installed on which the toilet bowl will be held. They are screwed into the corresponding sockets, silicone seals are put on top (in the lower photo these are two rods above the sewer outlet).

The sewer pipe extends to the desired distance, is fixed in a predetermined position with a bracket. It covers the pipe from above, is inserted into the groove until it clicks.

Next, water is connected to the tank. Open the tank lid (it is latched), the plug on the side surface is removed. Right or left - depends on where you have water. A corrugated pipe is inserted into the opened hole, the counterpart is inserted from the inside, everything is connected with a union nut. It is necessary to tighten without applying excessive force - it is plastic.

A tee is installed inside the tank, a pipe (usually plastic) is connected to the desired outlet. They do this with the help of an adapter and an American.

A hose from the tank is connected to a special tee inlet. It is flexible, in a metal braid. Tightened with a cap nut.

Install the cover in place. In principle, the installation for the toilet is installed. Now we need to close it. To do this, make a false wall of moisture-resistant drywall. It is recommended to put two sheets, but you can use one. Drywall is attached to the installation frame and to the mounted profiles.

The toilet bowl is put on the pins, its outlet goes into the plastic socket. The connection is tight, no additional measures are required. This completes the installation of the toilet with the installation.

The toilet is a thing that, depending on the number of people in the family, is used with enviable regularity. And although manufacturers make it strong enough, nevertheless, there is whole line reasons why a toilet needs to be replaced. For example, ceramics have become unsightly or the mechanism of the toilet has broken, plus there is a natural physical and moral deterioration of things. Therefore, the question of how to install a toilet is of interest to many who have not been spared the problem of replacing the toilet.

Types of toilets

On the market of sanitary ware, all types of toilet bowls are presented, which differ in special features:

• according to the configuration of the outlet drain: horizontal, oblique, which is located at an angle of 45 degrees and vertical;
• according to the shape of the bowl: visor, where the walls have a different angle of inclination, dish-shaped with an internal platform and funnel-shaped, which is considered the most practical option.

Before starting work, you need to figure out how to properly install the toilet, depending on the main toilet systems, the disassembly of which can have significant differences:

• Mounted or wall mounted. With this design, plumbing does not touch the floor, but is only attached to the installation - a special wall system that can withstand any load. Aesthetically, everything looks attractive, because. all communications are hidden. However, the installation of such a design requires significant financial expenses, most minor repairs turns into a huge problem, and the question of how to install a toilet with your own hands remains open.
• Attached. With such a system, the toilet bowl is attached to the floor, and the drain tank with all communications is hidden in the wall. Plus - appearance such a device, and the minus is the difficult repair of hidden parts.
• Intrafloor. This system is used in public toilets when installation is done directly into the recess of the floor. However, for apartments and houses, this option remains unacceptable by many.
• Floor. The most popular standard designs with a toilet bowl attached to the floor and a cistern adjacent to it. The indisputable advantage of such technologies is the ability to install and repair the toilet on their own, without resorting to the help of specialists.

Installing a new toilet, regardless of the specific type of product, consists of two stages:

• removal of the old toilet;
• installation of a new product.

Dismantling the toilet

When removing an old toilet, special precautions must be taken to avoid water leakage, which, in the worst case, will require further refurbishment measures. Therefore, in order to avoid common mistakes, below is step by step guide for non-professionals.

water shutoff

The first step in dismantling a toilet is to turn off the water. This can be done by simply turning off the faucet. However, there are situations when valves are no longer used. long time and they get rusty. In this case, it is necessary to block the main riser and, during the repair process, change the faucet at the same time.

Advice! In order for the taps not to rust, they should be used for prevention at least once a year.

After shutting off the tap, completely drain the water from the tank.

Disconnecting the water supply hose

On the side of the drain tank there is a flexible hose through which water flows for flushing. It is fastened with ordinary nuts which unscrew very easily.

Removing the drain tank

The flush tank is attached to the toilet with two long bolts. In order to unscrew them, you first need to remove the tank cover. Then, if necessary, blot excess moisture with a sponge (if water remains inside, it will surely spill onto the floor through the holes of the removed bolts). A situation may arise when the screws are rusted, because. have been in contact with water for many years, then a special anti-rust agent will help.

After loosening the bolts, carefully remove the drain tank, swinging it in different directions for even extraction.

The toilet bowl, as a rule, is attached to the floor with several bolts (it is possible that a toilet is first placed under the toilet wooden board). To facilitate the workflow, you first need to remove the toilet lid. Then be sure to put rags on the floor or substitute a bucket. The toilet bowl has a water seal, where water is constantly located - this is a kind of barrier from unpleasant odors from public sewerage. When removing plumbing, a fair amount of liquid is poured out, as a result of which it is possible to flood the neighbors.

Then you need to unscrew the bolts at the base of the toilet. If they are rusty, then you need to use special tool or cut them with a grinder.

Along the entire line of the base you need to walk with a sharp knife or blade, because. often the joint between the toilet and the floor is coated with sealant.

Fastening to a common sewer pipe, very often, is fixed with cement. In order to get rid of it, you can use a drill with a medium drill.

Important! In order not to breathe gases from an open sewer, before removing the toilet bowl, you should prepare a homemade plug, for example, old rags. After a quick cleaning of the pipe from the remnants of construction debris, it is necessary to immediately plug the hole with a prepared rag.

Now the old toilet can be removed, and this completes the dismantling work.

Removing a wall hung toilet

When dismantling the wall-mounted toilet, the procedure is approximately the same:

• first you need to loosen the bolts that hold the toilet in the wall installation;
• then disconnect the toilet from the drain tank and the general sewer;
• finally remove the toilet.

Before the direct installation of a sanitary ware, it is necessary to perform some actions:

• Take accurate measurements of the old toilet so that you can avoid unnecessary problems when buying and installing a new one. You also need to pay attention to the length of the bowl so that it does not accidentally block the door.
• Choose a brass mount that does not lend itself to corrosion. However, some metal toilet bolts have a yellowish zinc finish that makes them look like brass, so the item should be carefully inspected.
• Repair or good .

When installing a toilet, you can use one of three methods:

• Taffeta fastening. With this method of installation, taffeta is placed under the base of the toilet bowl. This is a special hardwood board pre-treated with drying oil. It should be laid either on the same level with the floor, or slightly above it. The taffeta must be fixed with anchors and the installation site must be filled with cement. After the solution is completely dry, you can proceed with the installation of the toilet bowl. All joints with the sewer pipe should be treated with sealant and sealed with tow, and the base of the toilet should be screwed to the prepared place with screws. Then attach the drain tank and check the tightness of the system.
• Connection with glue. One of the most simple ways you can consider fixing the toilet with epoxy glue. To do this, it is necessary to clean the contacting surfaces well, and then degrease them with one of the substances - a solvent, acetone or white spirit. After that, you need to roughen them for greater adhesion and repeat the degreasing procedure. Then dry. The next step is to connect the cistern to the toilet. Then it is necessary to apply a thin layer of epoxy glue on the floor, put a plumbing product on it and press it well (you can just sit on the toilet). The glue must dry for at least 12 hours.
• Dowel installation. Correct installation toilet bowl is easily implemented with dowel mounting. This practical method involves fixing the toilet directly to the floor, without first installing additional structures under its “leg”.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation will consist of several steps:

1. Pre-sampling. On the prepared floor, you need to put the toilet and check for discrepancies between the height of the neck and the sewer. You also need to check the angle of inclination. If necessary, a correction should be made.
2. Design markup. First, you should measure the width of the room and find the middle, which will be the axis of the toilet. On it, approximately at a distance of 10-15 cm from the outlet pipe of the sewer, install a toilet. Then, in the mounting holes, you can insert a marker and make the appropriate marks. At the end, you need to circle the base.
3. Drain tank assembly. In accordance with the recommendations of the instructions, you need to assemble the tank, and then screw it to the toilet. To check the quality of the work done, you can reconnect all communications and make a test run. After a successful experiment, you need to drain the water again and continue the process of replacing the toilet.
4. Preparation of mounting holes. In the places marked with a marker, with the help of impact drill or a puncher you need to make holes. Then hammer plastic dowels into them.
5. Corrugation sealing. First you need to wipe the pipe dry with a rag and apply silicone in waves to the ribbed gum hidden in the sewer. The same actions must be carried out from the opposite end of the corrugation, processing the area that is put on the toilet neck.
6. Connecting the device to the sewer. First, part of the corrugation (to the edge of the gum) must be inserted into the sewer pipe. On the opposite side, firmly put it on the toilet outlet. Then, on the place previously outlined by the marker, you need to lay a special rubber gasket or apply a good silicone ball.
7. Equipment installation. Initially, you need to put the toilet in the prepared place, press it and screw it to the floor. Excess silicone formed during installation can be cleaned with a wet cloth, passing it along the contour of the device.

This completes the installation. Now you can test run the water. If the work was carried out without errors, then the tank will be filled with water to the required level and its flow will stop. There should be no overflow. After draining the water, the process should be repeated without failure. You should also carefully check that the newly installed structure does not leak anywhere. If everything meets the above criteria, then the installation can be considered successful.

IN last years the wall-mounted toilet has become very popular, so the question of installing a wall-mounted toilet is as relevant as ever. Installation of such plumbing equipment is carried out on the wall without any fastenings or contacts with the floor. In order to securely fix the toilet, you first need to build a metal frame. It is attached directly to the load-bearing wall, and already to it and the toilet itself. This applies to the case if the tank and pipes need to be hidden behind a plasterboard wall. In some versions, a wall-hung toilet with an open tank can be mounted directly on the wall. But then it will be necessary to press the sewer pipe into the thickness of the wall. The fastener itself is made using anchors that are mounted in a wall or frame.

Installing a toilet on a tiled floor

The tile should always be whole and beautiful, regardless of the workflow for installing the toilet. There are unspoken rules for this, the list of which is given below:

• When installing the toilet, be sure to put on rubber gaskets under the anchor nuts and dowels. They will prevent cracks in the toilet when tightened and eliminate rusty drips on ceramic tiles.
• If the tile is already laid, then best solution will attach the toilet epoxy resin or dowels.

Important! for dowels deep holes you can’t do it, because the waterproofing layer can be broken, which, in turn, can lead to more serious problems.

Sometimes you need to install the toilet yourself. Not everyone knows how to do it right and what to pay attention to. Get professional advice.

In contact with

classmates

Introduction

"How to install a toilet with your own hands?" - this is the question every owner asks new apartment or at home. - an integral part of any apartment or house. He, like a bathroom, a sink, requires connection to the water supply, sewerage, city or own, needs complete isolation of internal water. For its full operation, it is required to adjust the flush handles, a permanent set of the tank, check the entire structure for cracks, and much more. At first glance it seems hard work, but it will still be better if you do it yourself. So, in the event of a breakdown, you will quickly orient yourself and eliminate the leak. If the work is done by the masters, you will have problems.

Installing the drain mechanism

Before buying a toilet

Before buying, you need to check the dimensions of the product and correlate them with the dimensions of the toilet. It is worth considering all the nuances floor covering, make sure the quality and reliability of the device. If you have any prejudices about toilets, put it out of your mind, it's just a piece of stone. For now.

Stage 1. Installing the drain mechanism

The toilet bowl in its original form is a bowl and, inside of which there is a shut-off pipe and other details. To do a complete do-it-yourself toilet installation, you need to assemble them together so that everything is airtight. This is done by tightening many nuts, screws, fasteners.

First you need to insert drain mechanism- it comes already assembled - into the single large hole in the bottom of the tank, then fix it with a nut or two, depending on the design of the tank. The nut is tightened either by hand and with your own tools, or with the included in the set special key. Be careful not to damage the pipe, otherwise it will cause permanent problems later. For proper insulation, rubber gaskets are installed at any connection. In this case, put it in the inside of the tank, but do not twist anything, or it will break.

Bowl and tank connection

Stage 2. Connecting the bowl and toilet bowl

To attach the tank to the toilet bowl, you will first need to put a rubber seal on the drain mechanism. This is done for security and tighter isolation. Now carefully place the tank on the bowl, focusing on the shaped features and holes for the nuts. Make sure that both parts are perfectly aligned so that there are not even small holes or other errors. Do-it-yourself toilet installation will be quick and easy if you carefully check every step.

Now we fix the tank on the bottom of the toilet, for this, count the number of holes for the nuts and take metal washers, studs, cone gaskets and nuts in just that amount. This will avoid skipping holes and secure the device as much as possible. For each of them, you must first connect the stud to the washer, then put a conical rubber gasket on top and install this design on the hole. Carefully insert the nut and screw in. Remember, you can’t completely tighten the nuts at once, first fill all the holes and turn evenly, that is, first we turn each screw to half, then tighter and to the end. It is optimal to fasten everything in three approaches, you should not try to save time and rush.

Autonomous toilet

Types of tanks

How to install a toilet bowl with your own hands if you have a non-standard type of tank? Let's figure it out. Tanks are of three types:

• Standard, attached to the bowl;
• Autonomous, located above the bowl, suspended from the wall;
• Built-in, found in hanging toilets;

The difference is the location of the tank, the method of draining, fastening. In fact, the technologies are quite close, but the installation is still slightly different.

Installation of an autonomous tank

The self-contained tank is attached to the wall using bolts, nuts, or in another way that the manufacturer suggests. The tank is attached to the toilet with a drain pipe. This type of toilet bowl is not very convenient, it is used in public places, but if you use it, then the installation order is as follows: first we attach drain pipe to the toilet without attaching it to the tank. We mark the lower attachment point. We twist the nut or bolts on the connection of the pipe with the bowl. After that, calculate the height of the tank mount and mark it with a marker. Use the level to set the ideal position of the pipe and fix it to the wall, after checking the height. We connect the tank and the pipe in the same way as with the bowl, then fasten both elements to the wall using brackets and dowels. Installation completed. After the toilet is fully installed, check the performance of your system, inspect it for leaks.

Built-in toilet

Installation of a tank built into the wall

The next type of toilet bowl is, which, unlike the previous one, has a completely different mounting technology. Here the main element is the tank, not the bowl, it closes wall panels, tiles, drywall - by any available method. The advantages of such a model - it takes up little space and looks non-standard, there are design ideas that turn the toilet into something completely unpredictable. If you want to diversify the style of the apartment - the option is right for you. The disadvantages of this type are unreliability (depending on quality) and high cost. Usually, the installation technology is signed in the instructions, as there are different variants installation. However, it does not say how to install a built-in toilet with your own hands so that it works specifically with your sewer and water supply system. Usually, the tank is suspended from the frame, fastened with several bolts and nuts through a gasket, carefully checked for strength and reliability, on which the unique installation ends. Adjust the drain to save water and proceed to the bottom paragraphs, which will describe in detail how to attach the unit to a sewer, water pipe.

How to install a hanging toilet with your own hands

Sewer connection

Stage 3. Attaching the float to the assembled part

It was possible to connect the toilet to the float earlier, but then it would interfere with the tightening of the nuts. Proper assembly is as follows: put a rubber seal on the threads of your float, also for safety, now insert it into the tank with the side where the float has a thread. It is necessary to connect the tank and the float from the inside, then, as in previous cases, we slightly fix it with a suitable nut.

We have already solved half of the question of how to install a toilet bowl with our own hands - the device is fully assembled and ready to go. Now you need to properly connect it to your sewer and plumbing system, install it in a specific place.

Stage 4. Connecting to the sewer

Before you connect the toilet to the sewer system, you need to accurately choose a place for it, punch a hole for the pipe. If you have done this, proceed with the connection. For this, it is better to use, it combines strength, durability and, importantly, flexibility. With this material, you can move the toilet within its length, which is very useful for further work. Installation of a corrugated outlet is carried out as follows: the side with the feather gasket is inserted into the sewer pipe, and the other - onto the outlet of the toilet bowl. Tighten these holes as much as possible, they will hold themselves together.

Installation process

Stage 5. Installing the toilet on the surface

The next step is installation, attaching the toilet bowl with your own hands to the right place. To begin with, determine the position in which it will be comfortable for you to sit, the toilet will not stagger and creak, the corrugated pipe will hang freely, not stretch or shrink. Now let's pay attention to the bottom of the toilet - here you can see several holes. Draw their outline with a marker or other writing medium and move the toilet away, but be careful not to damage the incoming pipe.

It is optimal to first move it a little to one side in order to drill holes from one part, then do the same on the other. It is most convenient and correct to do this with a puncher, in no case do not drill holes through the toilet itself, cracks, chips, breaks are possible. Take the time to do quality work.

Stage 6. Tighten the nuts

We insert the plastic plugs supplied with the toilet into the holes made. Now move the toilet back to the desired position and screw it on with the long screws that are usually included in the kit. As in other cases, do not forget to install metal washers, conical spacers and studs. Try to shake the device in place, if it walks, twist it harder, otherwise when you sit on it, it will tremble and eventually break. Ultimately, the toilet will stand firmly on the surface, no movement will generate a squeak. This completes the installation of the toilet with your own hands, it remains to attach the iron pipe connecting the unit to the plumbing system. This process is a little more complicated than the previous ones, but it is quite feasible.

Metal-plastic pipes

Stage 7. Connecting the plumbing system - options

When connecting the water supply to the toilet, you can use two types of pipes - a flexible hose, negative sides which is unreliability, creaking, leaks, fragility. He will constantly interfere, bend and wrinkle. Positive points- ease of connection, the ability to install on toilet bowls of non-standard format.

The second way is a metal-plastic pipe, reliable, strong, but not bending at all. Poor-quality models, which are the most on the modern market, will leak and rust. On the other hand, if you buy an expensive and high-quality pipe, it will serve a really long service and will not cause any problems in the future, which cannot be said even about the best hoses. We recommend using this method.

Stage 8. Connecting the plumbing system. First way

Proper installation of the toilet with your own hands involves the cost of your personal time, but if you still decide to finish this job quickly, use a flexible hose. It is best to buy a corrugated hose, its advantages have been described. For proper attachment, attach one end of the hose through the gasket to the toilet, the other to the plumbing system. After that, twist the ends, just do not apply excessive force - the gasket may break and then the hose will start leaking from the very first use. If during operation you damaged the hose, you will have to replace it, since its repair will cost you a lot of time, despite the fact that a positive result is not guaranteed.

Toilet installation

Stage 8. Connecting the plumbing system. Second way

Let us examine in detail the second method - connecting a metal-plastic pipe. It is installed in the same way as a flexible hose, only you need to twist the ends even more carefully - the metal will easily cut the gasket, so you need to find a middle ground between under twisting and twisting. Metal pipe will not bend and interfere, so for this case it is ideal. After its installation, work with the toilet will be finally completed. All that remains is to attach the lid to the toilet bowl, seal the place where the unit docks with the floor, and that's it. Be sure to add a faucet to your pipe that can quickly turn off the water supply - this will prevent serious water leaks.

Outcome

After reading this material, your question about how to install a toilet bowl with your own hands will be settled. The main rules for installing a toilet bowl are accuracy, patience, and attentiveness. Follow these rules and you'll be fine. Remember that during the first time after the final installation, various problems may occur, such as leaks. Do not worry, sometimes after twisting the pipes can move away, leak. If you encounter this problem, just tighten the desired nut.

Install a toilet with your own hands video:

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If this is your first time thinking about installing a toilet, this article is for you. And it’s better if you have time to read it before you go to the store for a new “faience friend” or before you start finishing in the toilet room.

The fact is that modern toilet bowls are so different that they have a very different type of attachment, flush, sewer supply, etc. So, ideally, planning which toilet you have to mount with your own hands should begin already at the design stage of the toilet.

And what to do if there is an old “throne” in the toilet - how to remove it, avoiding the global flood? We will also talk about this in the article. Features of the installation process, a step-by-step guide and a few tips from the masters will help you save money and mount the toilet with your own hands without any problems.

It is impossible to plan a comfortable toilet without taking into account the features of the toilet bowl that is to be installed there.

To understand what exactly needs to be done, you need to know:

• whether it is necessary to dismantle the toilet bowl, which has served its purpose and carry out major repairs in the toilet (including cladding, repair and supply of sewer communications and floor screed);
• what are the dimensions of the new plumbing - will it not clutter up the space and will it allow your door to open quietly;
• what mount your future toilet has;
• what is the way to flush the toilet;
• At what height do you want to install plumbing.

If you know the answers to all these questions, it remains only to dismantle the old one (if necessary) and install a new toilet bowl.

Recall that floor plumbing is divided into several types. It differs in form and its device.

Classification by bowl shape:

• funnel-shaped;
• plate-shaped;
• visor.

Outlet drain happens at toilet bowls:

• horizontally oblique;
• vertically arranged.

The drain tank can be combined with the toilet bowl and independent (wall-mounted).

Toilets are attached to the floor: on 2 and 4 attachment points, on the corners.

Down with the old toilet!

Surely your toilet, which needs to be dismantled, is not wall-mounted, which means that it is attached to the floor. It will be possible to remove it from the toilet in just 7 steps.

1. Turn off the water and drain it from the tank in the toilet.

   

2. We unscrew the thin hose suitable for the tank.

   

3. We unscrew the fasteners of the tank. If they are rusty or “sticky”, you can water them, leaving for 5-7 minutes, with a special tool that will dissolve the lime. Or you can simply rip off the bolts using a screwdriver and adjustable wrench. Also, in order for the bolts to succumb, you can pre-spray on the mount "WD", kerosene composition, etc.
4. Following the tank bolts, you need to unscrew the toilet bowl mounts. They usually look like a nut screwed onto an anchor. To simplify the process, use the same methods as when working with tank mounts.

   

5. Next, you need to unhook the toilet drain from the sewer pipe. If the toilet is old, then the drain at the attachment point is probably smeared with cement for strength. It must be beaten off with a hammer and screwdriver. First you need to crumble the coating across the seam, and then you can mechanically destroy the cement. The drain should swing for now, but stay in its place.

   

6. We tilt the toilet several times in different directions, thus draining the water remaining in the knee.

   

7. Ready. The old toilet can be unhooked and proudly carried to the trash, while not forgetting to plug the gaping sewer hole with a plug made of plastic, fabric or wood.

   

If there are no plans for an old toilet, and you are seeing him off on his last journey, then after swinging it, you can split it with a sledgehammer so that it is not difficult to carry it out. You will also have to do the same if the fasteners of the old plumbing are cemented.

After dismantling the toilet, evaluate the condition of the pipes in the room. Cast iron create many problems; before installing new plumbing, it is recommended to change them to plastic. Also, plastic pipes greatly facilitate the process of installing a toilet bowl and distributing sewer drains (by the way, about installation plastic pipes with your own hands you can also read on our website).

Self-installation of plumbing "step by step"

For normal operation, the toilet bowl needs a flat, lined or specially prepared surface of the walls and floor.

1. First, we connect the drain of the toilet bowl with the help of a corrugation to the outlet of the sewer pipe-riser. You can also use a hard tube. The best option is if the toilet drain enters the riser without extension corrugations, etc. To seal the drain, we use a ring with a rubber border. It is important to consider that rubber does not tolerate cement and similar coatings on its surface. But the sealant is quite suitable.

   

   Toilet installation - cuff

2. To enter water, you need a flexible long enough hose connecting the tap that supplies liquid from the water supply to the tank of your plumbing. Pay attention to both inlet diameters in order to match the hose with two suitable fittings. Obviously, there is no way to screw a 3/4” thread onto a 1/8” pipe.

   

   We take the cuff and apply silicone sealant and install it in the pipe

   

   

   

3. If the drain is securely connected, you can begin to fix the plumbing.

   

   

   

We fix on the floor: 3 types of fasteners

You can fix the toilet with a wall tank without screws, for one resin. True, with this method of fastening, it is first necessary to clean the surface of the tile so that the glue holds better. When using "epoxy" it is important to allow freshly installed plumbing to dry properly and gain a foothold on the floor surface.

Fixing the toilet to the wall

Wall hung toilets are being used more and more. Their installation is not much more complicated than usual (by the way, you can read about installing a toilet bowl with your own hands on our website). Wall mounted toilet, as its name implies, will not have contact with the floor surface. It is suspended using a metal frame, which is attached to the load-bearing wall itself. The cistern and pipes of the toilet in this case are behind a false plasterboard wall. If the mounted plumbing has an open tank, then it will be possible to fix it on the wall itself, but then the sewer pipe should be inside the wall. The same anchors embedded in the wall or in the supporting frame will hold the structure.

After fixing the toilet bowl on the wall or on the floor, it remains only to assemble the toilet bowl. A tank is placed on the base, already securely fixed, or a pipe is connected to it from a tank hung on the wall.

It remains only to check if the toilet is working, and if there are any leaks. We turn on cold water, wait until the tank is filled, adjusting the filling level. We set up the locking mechanism according to the instructions. Rinse and see if it flows from the drain.

The last step is to screw the toilet seat. But here you, for sure, can already handle it yourself.

1. Before buying plumbing, first decide on the type of drain that suits you. If you do not plan to change the supply of the sewer riser, you must choose the same type as in the toilet that has worked out. Remember: no adapters will help to qualitatively connect the toilet bowl to the type of outlet that is not suitable for it.
2. Do not leave the choice and purchase of a toilet bowl for the final moment of repair: it is better to prepare a place in the toilet in advance to facilitate the installation of plumbing.
3. Invest in nickel-plated bolts and anchors to secure the toilet to the floor or wall. They do not rust, which means that ugly streaks and sticking of bolts are excluded.