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Owning your own home is the dream of many people. There is nothing better than your own corner, provided with all amenities. However, everyone wants to surround themselves with comfort, and the outdoor toilet, along with the need to carry water from the well, is a thing of the past. In this regard, the question became relevant: “How is a sewerage scheme created in a private house with your own hands?”.
Creating a sewer for a private house is not as difficult as it seems
Before starting construction, it is necessary to determine the type of sewerage scheme in a private house. With your own hands, you can create several varieties that will have their pros and cons.
The most popular are the following varieties:
- Drain well. Simply put, an ordinary pit that accumulates all waste and sewage. Such a structure is inexpensive, does not take much time during construction. The sequence of actions is simple - dig a hole at a distance of twenty meters from the house. The calculation of its volume is based on indicators of 0.7 cubic meters per person. To strengthen the walls, it is recommended to use brickwork or concrete rings. After that, for additional sealing, the seams are coated with bitumen. The bottom of the pit can be filled with concrete so that the wastewater does not poison the soil. Upon completion of construction, install a hatch for the subsequent removal of liquid. This is the simplest sewerage scheme in private houses, created by the owner with his own hands. However, such an arrangement is relevant, rather, for country houses than for a full-fledged living space;
- An equally well-known method is the instillation of a closed container. This structure operates on the same principle as drain hole. A special tank is buried in the ground, the volume of which is calculated according to the number of people living. The main waste lines are brought to the hatch of the tank. Drain water accumulates in the tank without polluting the surrounding area. A significant disadvantage of this method can be considered the need for constant cleaning.
- A septic tank is difficult to build, but at the same time the most reliable sewerage system in a private house, the scheme, laying depth and components of which can guarantee efficient operation for many years. During construction, it is necessary to choose a suitable place for the future well. Distance from the house should not be less than twenty meters. Further, the walls of the pit are securely reinforced with bricks, the recommended thickness of the masonry is twenty-five centimeters. We carefully concrete the bottom, after which we proceed to laying the drain. Position it above the water. Do not forget to provide a hole through which the liquid will be removed.
Helpful information! Deciding which option to choose should be based on the funds that you expect to spend during construction. The above examples differ both in the high cost of the elements and in the time costs.
In addition, do-it-yourself sewage installation in a private house depends on the layout of the dwelling and the number of people who regularly live in it. Experts recommend placing rooms such as a kitchen, bathroom and toilet nearby. This configuration makes it possible to allocate a single collector for their service, through which the waste liquid will flow into a septic tank or sewage pit.
If the house turns out to be too large, and its layout provides for a significant removal of the kitchen from other rooms with drainage, it will be required. It is necessary to take care of separate drainage, as well as provide for the possibility for pumping out drain water. Owners should take care to install risers to provide water to the upper rooms.
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In the article, we will consider options for a drainage device, how to make reliable system do-it-yourself, the average cost of the work of specialists.
The components that make up the sewer for private houses with their own hands
The drainage system consists of basic elements, each of which performs its own functions. The first place in the list is occupied by the communications of the premises. Pipes and hoses located in rooms and performing the function of drainage. Laid in rooms with plumbing, at the exit they are combined by a collector, through which the waste liquid leaves.
Further, the main functions are taken over by external communications. The pipeline installed on the street is most often dug into the ground or protected by a casing. Separate drains from utility rooms can be connected to it, for example,. The main task of this node is the delivery of wastewater to the receiving device.
The final stage in the chain is the storage tank, the main function of which is to store water and other waste. Depending on the complexity of the system, the receiving device can either simply be filled with water or filter sewage.
Do-it-yourself sewerage laying in private houses: video tips and more
At the first stage, the soil layer should be carefully examined for special characteristics. When looking for a site for a drain well, you need to pay attention to:
- Slopes, potholes and other natural depressions on your site;
- Free access to vehicles for cleaning the storage tank;
- Remoteness from economic constructions and fences.
In most cases country houses used seasonally and do not live there regularly. Therefore, do-it-yourself sewerage in private houses can do with a small receiving capacity.
Helpful information! If you adhere to sanitary and building codes, the sewage pit must be located at a distance of at least five meters from other buildings. Experienced Builders It is recommended to increase this distance as much as possible to isolate the house from unpleasant odors.
It is best to dig the hole in a low-lying area to provide a natural slope for runoff. Try to avoid such an arrangement in order to prevent accidents.
This video will help you understand how to draw up a diagram and plan for a drainage system:
Selection of parts and fittings for sewerage
The next step in construction is the selection of components. The quality of the fittings and other parts you choose will determine the durability and quality of the entire system.
Going to a specialized store, you need to know that the pipeline is divided into external and internal. The first combines high conductivity, resistance to high and low temperatures, as well as chemical and biological substances. These communications must freely pass water and be hermetically connected to the outlet manifold.
The external pipeline has the same qualities, with the addition of specific features. Its surface can withstand the load of the earth, because such communications are buried to a depth of two meters. In addition, these pipes are absolutely hermetic and pass according to international technical parameters.
When choosing communications, pay attention to the material from which they are made. There are the following types:
- cast iron;
- steel;
- Copper;
- Reinforced concrete;
- Asbestos-cement;
- Ceramic;
- Plastic.
Each material has specific features suitable for certain conditions.
In addition to the main "arteries" importance have fittings. These parts are used to connect the laid pipes to the drainage system.
To perform various functions, such varieties are provided as:
- Couplings - used to connect pipe segments;
- Reductions - for connecting ends of various diameters;
- Revisions - to remove blockages and dirt;
- Tees - to create branches;
Living in your private house without sewerage will be at least not comfortable.
As a rule, its installation takes place at the construction stages. Although there are exceptions.
And sewerage for a private house, as the masters correctly notice, is arranged more often after the construction of the building.
Schemes and types
In large houses where there are many rooms (bathrooms, bathrooms, kitchens, etc.), a scheme with at least two septic tanks is usually used.
If it is possible to join the central sewer system, then this must be done, despite the subsequent impressive fees.
If not, you will have to build an autonomous sewer.
Internal sewerage: scheme and specifics
When creating a project, you need to take into account the premises that need sewerage. They are located in one location on each floor. With this layout, it is easier to lay pipes. Although a personal project is created for each house.
The scheme here can be formed independently. Of course, this will not be a professional and detailed development, like specialists. But acting wisely, with its help, you will lay the pipeline and decide on the right amount of equipment and materials.
This is where a floor plan is required. Locate the positions for the sewer line (SC), riser(s) and all plumbing fixtures. In the diagram, mark the fittings for the pipeline and the distance from these elements to the riser and plumbing fixtures. Decide on the required number of connecting components. Such work is carried out on each floor.
Advice: be sure to calculate how many pipes of various diameters and connecting components are needed.
Required diameters:
- For a riser or TC, as well as an outlet block for draining waste coming from a bathroom - 10–11 cm.
- For drains from kitchen and bathroom a pipe is used - 5 cm.
- Turns in the sewer should be done with two knees. The angle of their position is 45°. This will help prevent blockages.
Material
Usually these are pipes made of cast iron, polypropylene or PVC. The first are considered standard. They cope with impressive loads. Their durability and reliability is amazing.
But today, products from the other two indicated materials are becoming more and more famous. Their cost is more attractive, and installation is much easier.
Polypropylene products are purchased very often. Customers like their flexibility and modest weight, and their resistance to high sewage temperatures.
It's important to know: It should be noted that PVC and polypropylene products are installed only inside the house. Cast iron analogues can be laid outside.
Pipes made of all these materials, with proper operation, will last a very long time.
Kinds
Usually sewerage according to the method of operation is divided into mixed and separate. Most often, the first type works in private homes.
Types of sewage according to the method of eliminating wastewater: gravity and pressure. The second requires enormous expenditure and effort. Therefore, the popularity of the first is much higher.
Thus, in private houses, usually, a mixed gravity sewer is arranged.
Installation
You need an assistant to get the job done. Work takes place with polypropylene pipes. Their diameters are 5 and 10 cm. Other necessary things: revisions, tees and elbows, as well as sleeves, clamps for fastening these pipes, rubber cuffs, glue.
Sleeves are placed on those areas where the system crosses the walls or ceiling. Rubber cuffs are applied to the connection areas. And there, powerful insulation is made with the help of plumbing sealant.
Pipe laying goes with some slope. These are the requirements of SNiP. For this case, the slope is 2–3%. It is largely determined by the diameter of the pipe. The percentage here is the slope in terms of cm / 1 shoulder strap. meter. For pipes with a more modest diameter, the slope is 3%. Only by observing this rule, it is possible to qualitatively mount a working internal sewage system.
And also a slope less than 2% and more than 3% is unacceptable. In the first scenario, solid elements will remain on the walls of the pipes, a blockage will form. In the second case, the runoff flows in these pipes will pick up too much speed, and the wastewater will be divided into fractions, and the solid elements will settle.
To connect such pipes, glue or rubber seals are used.
For your information: for work you will also need a soldering iron and a puncher.
The work starts with the release - the area where the internal and external sewers converge. With such a beginning, you will not allow these systems to mismatch. Installation of the release goes through the foundation. If it is carried out at a depth inferior to the depth of soil freezing in your area, then the pipe must be thermally insulated. Otherwise, the outlet will stiffen, and the sewerage system will only be able to work in warm weather.
If there is no outlet hole in the foundation, it must be arranged.
The required diameter of the sleeve is 13 cm. The sleeve extends at least 15 cm from each side of the base. The hole and installation of the sleeve comes with a slope of 2% for external sewage, following to the septic tank. The diameter of the outlet necessarily matches the diameter of the riser.
The best position for a riser is a bathroom. So the outlet section for eliminating drains from the toilet will be short. The following trend operates here: the larger the diameter of the outlet section and the plumbing. device, the closer its position to the riser.
The laying method is a personal matter. You can make a gasket in boxes, in walls, you can work in an open way. For the installation of pipes with a riser, oblique tees are used. If there is a point in your scheme where the outlets from the shower, bath and sink converge, then you need to install a collector pipe there. Its diameter is 10 cm.
To protect your home from unpleasant odors, install water seals. The audit must be mounted on each riser. Each turn of the sewer must end with a cleaning. So, if the sewer is clogged, it will be easier to clean it.
The riser continues upward already in the form of a fan pipe. First, a revision is placed at the point of its installation. After that, this pipe is displayed on the roof. It is not allowed to combine it with home ventilation.
The exit must necessarily exceed the ridge of the roof, at least 70 cm from the roof and at a distance of 4 m from the windows. Ventilation, chimney and the fan pipe itself must differ in height.
Having mounted the internal sewage system, it must be thoroughly shed with clean water. In this way, the tightness of all connections is tested.
External sewerage
Such a sewer is a network of pipes from the outlet block to a septic tank or treatment plant. Pipes are laid in the ground here.
Pipes must have impressive rigidity and withstand the impact of the soil. And it is also better to lay pipes of bright color so that they are easier to notice in depth. The diameter of such pipes is 11 cm.
There are different types of external ventilation. The most primitive are cesspools and storage systems where sewage is collected. Today, preference is increasingly given to various septic tanks and total cleaning stations.
Two-chamber septic tank
Types of septic tanks:
- Two-chamber.
- Three-chamber.
- With biofilter.
- With one chamber and soil purification.
The septic tank is selected based on:
- The needs of all residents of the house.
- The number of these residents.
- Type of residence: permanent or temporary.
- Estimated water consumption. It is understood how much each tenant spends water daily. Here, the number of plumbing fixtures in the house, and whether there are household appliances, also matters.
- level ground water on your territory.
- The parameters of the territory itself. Here the areas for the treatment equipment are calculated.
- Soil type.
- climate in your area.
System example:
Which septic tank or treatment plant you buy is also a matter of your budget. And also here it does not hurt to consult with specialists.
It is also important to take into account some criteria regarding the location of such equipment:
- The garden and the septic tank must be separated by at least 8 m.
- Any source of water and a septic tank are separated by at least 20 m.
- A residential building and a septic tank are separated by at least 5 m.
The main dilemma in the organization of external sewerage is the competent choice of treatment technology. Earthworks and laying do not cause any particular difficulties.
Concerning general scheme external sewage, then it must include:
- a system of trays where waste is concentrated;
- waste disposal channels to the point of disposal;
- sump (cesspool).
Algorithm for installing external sewerage:
- Creation of a trench. It connects house drains to a sump. Trench slope: 2cm/1m pipe in direction cesspool.
- The bottom of the trench is covered with a sand cushion. Layer -10–15 cm.
- A pipeline is laid along this pillow close to the storage tank.
- The connecting point of the pipe with the septic tank is sealed: the pipe is laid along the oval of the cords. The cord is treated with grease.
Requirements for sewerage in a private house
- For installation, use materials of the required parameters.
- Make a scheme taking into account all the necessary factors.
- Do not use poor quality pipes.
- Do not clog sewers with heavy waste.
- Design sewers at the same time as designing the house itself.
- Install sewers at construction stages. This is the best option. If it has not been observed, the solution methods have already been outlined above.
How to make a sewer in a private house, see the tips in the following video:
Living in a private house, every owner dreams of creating maximum comfort in it, ensuring a comfortable standard of living. Therefore, it is important to worry in advance about such an important issue as installing a sewer in a private house with your own hands. And below you will learn how to do all the work competently, correctly and not harm the environment.
At self construction sewerage system you can decently save. But it is important to do all the work correctly, taking into account all the requirements for construction and installation work.
Attention! Your site may require drainage, and you can buy everything you need for it at a discount in the online store https://www.drenaj-shop.ru/. But be sure to indicate that you entered from our Remontik website.
The choice of a sewer system scheme should always be made in strict accordance with the layout of your home.
When planning, we recommend to provide for the most compact placement of rooms for which water will be drained and supplied (bathrooms, shower rooms, bathrooms, laundries and kitchens). But the most the best way consists in such an arrangement in which all plumbing equipment will be tied to one collector, through which sewage will be drained into a septic tank or cesspool.
In the presence of a large country house, which provides for several different rooms with water outlet / supply located in different parts buildings, experts advise giving preference to such a sewerage scheme, in which there will be at least two septic tanks or cesspools. In addition, if your house has two or more floors, and the bathrooms, baths and kitchens are on different floors, then you will have to install risers.
Installation of sewerage in a private house. Types of sewerage
All work on the construction of sewerage in a country house or in the country is reduced to the installation of an external and internal sewerage.
The work on internal sewerage should include the installation of a vent pipe, a riser and piping for such premises as a kitchen, shower room, toilet, etc. External or external sewage refers to everything that is outside the house, that is, a system of pipes that go from the house to the deep cleaning station (a rather expensive solution) or to the septic tank itself (with a storage tank or filtration field).
Of course, if you can connect to a centralized waste disposal system, then the task will be greatly simplified. However, below we will consider an autonomous system that includes effective wastewater treatment in a septic tank, and not such a primitive structure as a cesspool.
Installation of internal sewerage in a private house
First of all, you need to deal with the internal circuit. Even during the design of the house, care must be taken to ensure that all the premises where sewerage will be carried out are as close as possible to each other, since this approach simplifies the scheme of the internal sewage system. Each private house involves the installation of an individual sewerage scheme, which can vary greatly.
Therefore, you must take into account the fact that pipes with a diameter of 100-110 mm must be used in the toilet for draining. For gray drains entering the sewer from the bathroom or kitchen, it is worth using PVC or PP pipes with a diameter of 50 mm. All turns must be done using two plastic elbows that are bent at an angle of 45 degrees, as this will minimize the possibility of blockage in the future (otherwise, it will be quite difficult to eliminate it).
It is cheaper and more reliable to use polypropylene (PP) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipes in the sewerage scheme. In addition, it is much easier to arrange an internal sewerage system using such pipes.
First of all, you must decide where the riser or collector pipe will be located, and only then carry out further wiring from it.But first of all, you should figure out as accurately as possible how to independently develop a sewerage scheme for your home, since in the future you can use it to complete the calculation of materials and plumbing equipment that will be needed to install a sewer system in a private house.
You can make a sewerage scheme on a piece of paper in a box, but it is better to buy several sheets of graph paper for such a task. In addition, you will need a ruler, tape measure and a sharp pencil.
The sewerage scheme for a private house is drawn up in the following sequence:
- First of all, you need to draw up a detailed plan of the house on a scale. If you do not know the dimensions, then you will have to use a tape measure and carefully measure everything.
- Next, you need to decide on the location of the risers.
- Then, on the plan, you need to mark the locations of the plumbing and decide how they will be connected.
- Next, mark the pipes that will go from the riser and fittings to plumbing fixtures, and all connecting elements (bends, tees, etc.).
- All of the above should be done for all floors of a country house.
- Now decide on the size of the riser and the fan pipe.
- Add the entire length of the pipes that belong to the internal sewerage.
- Another stage is the external sewerage. It is necessary to draw up its scheme: the location of the pipes coming from the septic tank or deep cleaning station to the outlet. At the same time, do not forget all the available SNiPs.
Sewerage installation in a private house: choice of pipes
For the reason that the conditions inside the house, as well as outside it, are significantly different, then the pipes for such sewage systems should be different. Today, PVC or PP pipes, which are distinguished by their characteristic gray color, are usually used for laying internal sewage. For risers and sun loungers, their diameter should be 110 mm, and for the outlet - 40 and 50 mm. However, do not forget that such pipes are used exclusively for internal sewage, and other solutions should be used for external ones.
Typically, pipes that are installed underground from a septic tank or deep cleaning station to discharge are orange in color, which is extremely simple - the bright orange color is more noticeable in the ground. But the pipes used for external sewerage differ from others not only in color, but also in the requirements that apply to them. They have high rigidity, since they have a significant load.More reliable designs are also offered, a striking example of which are two-layer corrugated pipes. But their laying depth, when maintaining a sewer system, is usually small (usually up to two meters), so there is no need to use them. Most often, red pipes have a diameter of 110 mm, which is quite enough to drain wastewater.
Below we will consider all the disadvantages and advantages of pipes made from different materials among which the most used are:
- Cast iron.
Advantages: durable and strong pipes, able to withstand high loads.
Disadvantages: heavy and fragile, expensive, on the inside, as a result of corrosion, roughness may form, which can cause blockage.
- Polypropylene.
Advantages: flexible and lightweight, which makes them in high demand for internal sewage. Cope well with high flow temperatures.
Disadvantages: if you use them for their intended purpose, then they have no disadvantages.
- Polyvinyl chloride.
Advantages: reminiscent of cast iron, light and inexpensive. Most often used for outdoor sewage.
Disadvantages: they do not tolerate high wastewater temperatures, brittle (crack, do not bend).
Sewerage installation in a private house: pipe laying
Perhaps the most difficult process in the construction of an autonomous sewer in country house is piping and piping. If you are going to do this work on your own, then call someone for help, as this will affect not only the quality of the work, but also its speed. In addition, we advise you to check the tightness of the system by spilling it with water, and only then, when you are sure of the reliability of all seams, proceed to full operation.
Pipe connection
As mentioned earlier, the easiest option is to use PVC or PP pipes for sewage. Today, a huge number of products are offered on the construction market, so you can easily find revisions, elbows, tees and plastic pipes that are easily and securely connected at the joints, which is ensured by the presence of rubber cuffs. If necessary, all joints are additionally treated with sanitary sealant. Well, where the pipe passes through the ceiling and the wall, we recommend installing a sleeve.
Also, do not forget about the slope of the pipes. Taking into account SNiP, the angle of inclination of a pipe in a non-pressure system directly depends on its diameter. For example, for a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, you need to create a slope of less than 3 cm per 1 meter, and for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm - at least 2 cm per 1 meter. Keep this in mind, as different points of the pipeline will have to be laid at different heights to provide the necessary slope.
Sewer outlet
In order not to encounter a discrepancy with the outer and internal systems sewer, you need to start installing the sewer in a private house from the outlet (the border part of the sewer connecting the pipe that leads to the septic tank with the pipe leaving the house).
The outlet must be installed through a foundation that exceeds the depth of soil freezing corresponding to your region. Naturally, you can make the outlet even higher, but you will need to insulate the pipe so that it does not freeze in winter. If you do not do this, then there is a high probability that you will only be able to use the toilet in the spring, after warmer weather.
If you did not take care of this when building the foundation, then you will have to punch a hole in its structure that will easily fit a drain pipe with a sleeve. Moreover, the sleeve is a small piece of pipe with a larger diameter than that of the sewer (130-160 mm). It should protrude from both sides of the foundation by at least 15 cm.
Summarizing all of the above, we can say that at the current stage you need to make a hole in the foundation and insert a sleeve with a pipe into it. Remember that the diameter of the outlet pipe must be no less than the diameter of the riser. The sleeve itself is necessary so that you can set the required slope of the pipe in relation to the septic tank (2 cm per 1 m).Wiring and installation of the riser
It is good if the riser is in the toilet, since the recommended size of the pipe from the toilet to the riser is 100 mm. It can be mounted both openly and hidden, depending on how exactly the pipes will be located - in special boxes, channels, walls and niches or next to the wall (fastening with clamps, pendants, etc.).
To connect sewer pipes with risers, it is worth using oblique tees, and at the joints of pipes of different diameters, adapters must be used. At the intersection of pipes from sinks, shower and bath, you need to install a collector pipe with a diameter of 100-110 mm. At the same time, take care of water seals that will protect the sense of smell from unpleasant odors.
On each riser, it is imperative to mount a special tee with which you can clean the blockage. In order not to carry out work on cleaning the sewer in the future, mount the cleaning after each turn of the pipe.
Exhaust pipe outlet
It should be said right away that the output and installation of the fan pipe plays an important role, since it is needed for:
- maintaining normal atmospheric pressure inside the system so that air discharge and water hammer do not occur;
- increase the durability of sewerage;
- ventilation of the entire system, which is required for the efficient operation of the septic tank.
The fan pipe is a continuation of the riser, that is, it is a pipe that leads to the roof. Before connecting the riser and the fan pipe, you need to perform an audit. Then you can bring the pipe to the attic at any convenient angle.
We do not recommend simplifying the work by combining a fan pipe with ventilation or a chimney. In addition, it is necessary to locate its exit as far as possible from balconies and windows (at a distance of at least 4 m). Moreover, the height of the indentation from the roof should in no case be less than 70 cm. In addition, it is necessary to have sewer ventilation, house ventilation and a chimney at different levels.Summing up all the above, we can note the following:
- at the first stage, we recommend developing a detailed wiring diagram, minimizing the distance from plumbing to the riser;
- it is necessary to increase the diameter of the pipes going to the riser, in the course of connecting other additional devices (avoid reducing the diameter);
- adhere to one simple rule: the larger the outlet of the device, the closer it should be located to the riser (the toilet should be closest to the riser);
- where blockages may form in the future, it is necessary to provide for cleaning and revision;
- in the wiring system for ventilation, there must be a fan pipe.
Installation of external sewerage in a private house
Arrange external sewerage in a country house with your own hands you can different ways, which we will discuss below. It is important to correctly choose a system that would fully satisfy the needs.
It is necessary to decide on the scheme for arranging sewerage, taking into account the following factors:
- permanent or temporary residence in a private house;
- the number of people who live in the house daily;
- daily water consumption by one person (depends on the presence of a washbasin, washing machine, toilet bowl, sink, bathtub, shower, etc.);
- groundwater level;
- soil structure and type;
- the size of your area around the house and how much space can be allocated for treatment facilities;
- climatic conditions.
All sewerage systems for a private house can be divided into 2 types:
- storage systems (cesspool without a bottom, sealed container);
- facilities used for wastewater treatment (aerotank - a septic tank with a constant air supply, a septic tank with a filtration field and three or two chambers, a septic tank with a biofilter, a septic tank with natural treatment and two overflowing wells, a simple single-chamber septic tank with soil cleaning).
Cesspool without a bottom
A cesspool is the oldest and most proven method of sewerage in a private house. Even 50 years ago, this method simply had no alternatives. True, then people did not use as much water as they do today.
A cesspool is the same well that has no bottom. In it, you can make walls of concrete rings, concrete, bricks and other material, leaving the soil as the bottom. After sewage enters the pit from the house, relatively pure water, being cleaned, will seep into the soil, and fecal matter and organic waste will accumulate, gradually settling to the bottom. When the well is completely filled with solid waste, it must be cleaned.
Previously, waterproof walls were not made in the cesspool, which means that when it was full, they simply buried it and dug a new hole in another place.
It is worth considering the fact that it is possible to install sewage in a private house with the help of a cesspool only when the volume of drains per day does not exceed 1 m 3. Only in this way can soil microorganisms that feed on organic matter have time to process water that penetrates into the soil through the bottom of the pit. In this case, if this norm is exceeded by the volume of wastewater, the water will not receive the necessary treatment, which will provoke pollution of groundwater. If this happens, then all water sources within a radius of 50 meters will be contaminated.
If you add microorganisms to the cesspool, it will reduce bad smell emanating from it, and the cleaning process will be significantly accelerated. But be that as it may, you should not risk it.
Therefore, it is necessary to build a cesspool without a bottom only when the family does not live in a private house permanently, but happens only a few times a week, without spending a lot of water. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that groundwater should lie 1 m below the bottom of the pit, otherwise you will not be able to exclude contamination of the soil and water sources. The cesspool has low price, but be that as it may, today it is not very popular in modern cottages and country houses.
Sealed container, presented in the form of a storage tank
In this case, a special sealed container must be installed next to the house, where sewage will flow from the house through pipes. You can buy a ready-made container, which will be made of plastic, metal or some other material. However, if necessary, you can make it from concrete rings with your own hands. The lid is most often made of metal, and the bottom is made of concrete. The main condition for the construction of such a sewer is complete tightness. For this type of sewage, you can use pragma corrugated pipes.
This container must be cleaned. As soon as it is completely filled, you will have to call a sewage truck, which will not be very expensive. The frequency of emptying the tank is directly dependent on the volume of wastewater and the size of the tank. For example, if there are 4 people in the house who use the toilet, washing machine, bath and shower, then the volume of the storage tank must be at least 8 m 3, and it must be cleaned every 10-14 days.
Therefore, if a high occurrence of groundwater is noted on your site, then it makes sense to use an airtight cesspool to equip the sewerage system at home. Thus, you can protect the soil and water sources from possible pollution.
But the main disadvantage of this system is that you will need to call the sewer truck quite often. So think in advance about the place where the pit will be located in order to provide a convenient access to it. The bottom of the pit or container is not deeper than 3 meters from the soil surface, otherwise the hose will not be able to reach the bottom.
It is also important that the lid storage capacity was qualitatively insulated, and the pipeline had good protection from freezing. The cost of this container directly depends on the volume and material from which it will be made. Most cheap option- the use of used eurocubes, and the most expensive is concrete pouring or brick. Do not forget about the monthly costs of cleaning the tank.Single-chamber septic tank - the easiest way to clean the soil
It is worth noting that a single-chamber septic tank is not much different from a simple cesspool. Such a structure is a well, where the bottom is covered with an insignificant layer of rubble (not less than 30 cm), and coarse-grained sand is poured over it with the same layer. Otherwise, sewage from the house penetrates through pipes into the well, where water seeps through crushed stone, sand and soil, being cleaned by 50%. Naturally, sand and gravel greatly increases the quality of water treatment, but does not solve this problem radically.
In a private house, it is not recommended to build sewers using a single-chamber septic tank if people live in the house permanently or in case of a large volume of wastewater. You can use this option for temporary residence and low groundwater levels. In addition, periodically you need to change the sand and gravel, as they become silted.
Two-chamber septic tank - overflow settling wells
The construction of overflow settling wells and filter wells is a fairly popular way of arranging sewage in a private house. Moreover, this option is quite economical and can be installed independently.
Such a sewer system includes two wells: the first has a sealed bottom, and the second does not, but is sprinkled with sand and gravel.
Waste water from the house is fed into the first well, in which solid waste and feces sink to the bottom, while greasy waste floats to the surface. Between these two methods, relatively clarified water is formed. Moreover, the first well is connected to the second one with the help of an overflow pipe approximately 2/3 of its height, which is under a slight slope, allowing water to flow there calmly.
Clarified water enters the second well, which subsequently seeps through the soil, crushed stone and sand, being purified even better.
The first well is used as a sump, and the second one is used as a filter. The first well fills up with faeces from time to time and it will require a call to a special sewer truck. This should be done approximately once every 6 months. To reduce unpleasant odors, add microorganisms that decompose feces to the first well.
The two-chamber septic tank described above can be made on your own from concrete, brick or concrete rings, or you can buy a ready-made plastic septic tank at the manufacturer, where additional cleaning will be carried out by means of special microorganisms.
It is recommended to install a sewerage system in a private house based on two overflow wells only when, even during the flood period, the groundwater level is below 1 meter from the bottom of the second well. If there is sandy or sandy soil on the territory of your site, then this will be an excellent option. However, do not forget that after about 5 years, crushed stone and sand in the second ring will have to be replaced.
Biological or soil treatment - septic tank with filtration field
This type of septic tank is made in the form of one tank, including several separate tanks, which are connected by pipes or into two or three sections. As a rule, if you need to install this type of sewer system in a private house, you can buy a ready-made version.
The first capacity of the septic tank is used to settle the drains, as is the case in an ordinary settling well. The partially clarified water then flows into a second tank or section, where all organic residues are decomposed by anaerobic bacteria. Then the more clarified water goes to the filtration fields.
A fairly large underground area (approximately 30 m 2) acts as a filtration field. This is where primary wastewater treatment takes place. In this case, the water is purified by approximately 80%.
If on your land plot if there is sandy or sandy soil, then this will be an excellent option, otherwise you will have to build an artificial filtration field from crushed stone and sand. Once the water has passed the filtration field, it can be collected in pipelines and directed to drainage ditches or pilot wells. It is forbidden to plant edible trees and vegetables above the filtration field, because in this case you will break a flower bed.
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Over time, the filtration can become silted up and it will have to be cleaned, or rather, crushed stone and sand should be replaced. This is a huge amount of work in which your site may suffer.Installation of a sewerage system with a filtration field is only suitable when groundwater is located at a depth of at least 2.5-3 m. At the same time, you must understand that there must be a distance of at least 30 m from the filtration field to water sources and residential buildings.
Septic tank with biofilter - natural treatment station
Thanks to the deep cleaning station, it is really possible to complete a complete installation of sewage in a private house. And this despite the high level of groundwater.
This station acts as a capacity, which is divided into 3-4 sections. It is best to buy it from a trusted manufacturer, asking professionals about the required volume and equipment. The cost of this septic tank usually starts at $1,200, which is not cheap.
The first chamber of this septic tank is used to settle water, and in the second, organic residues are decomposed with the help of anaerobic microorganisms. In the third, water is separated, and in the fourth, organic matter is decomposed by aerobic bacteria, which require constant inflow air. To ensure such conditions, a pipe is installed above the chamber. It should rise 50 cm above the ground. In that pipe leading from the third to the fourth chamber, a special filter is installed, into which aerobic bacteria actually settle. It turns out a kind of filtering field, but it is more miniature and concentrated.
Due to the small area of water movement and the high concentration of microorganisms, water purification is carried out even more efficiently (up to 90-95%). Such purification allows you to use water for watering the garden, washing the car and many other purposes.
From the fourth chamber there is a pipe that goes either to the storage tank or to the drainage ditch.
For a private house where people live permanently, a septic tank with a biofilter is an excellent solution. Adding microorganisms to a septic tank is easy - you just need to pour them into the toilet. This cleaning station has no restrictions. Its advantages include the fact that it does not need electricity. The downside is that it needs regular maintenance, as bacteria will simply die if left out of the sewage. If you add new bacteria, they will only work after 2 weeks.
Artificial treatment stations - septic tank with forced air supply
This is an accelerated cleaning station, where natural processes occur artificially. The installation of a sewer system in a country house with an aeration tank is impossible without supplying electricity to the septic tank, which is required for the air pump and connecting the air distributor.
Such a septic tank has 3 separate chambers or containers that are interconnected. Through the sewer pipe, water enters the first chamber, where it settles and solid waste precipitates. Then the partially purified water passes into the second chamber, which acts as an aeration tank, where activated sludge, consisting of microorganisms and plants, is mixed with water. All microorganisms and bacteria of activated sludge are aerobic, therefore forced aeration is extremely important for their vital activity.
Then the water is mixed with sludge and goes to the third chamber, which is a deep cleaning sump. Further, with the help of a special pump, the sludge is pumped back to the aeration tank.
Forced air supply provides fast wastewater treatment, and water after treatment can be used for various technical needs (car washing, watering the garden, etc.).
Of course, the aerotank will cost you quite a lot (from $ 3,700), but at the same time it is very useful. When installing sewers of this type there are no restrictions. Among the shortcomings, it is worth noting only the need for electricity, constant maintenance so that the bacteria do not die.
If your site has a high level of groundwater, then having concluded from everything written above, you can opt for several options:
- septic tank with biofilter;
A few general rules for sewerage in a private house
There are certain restrictions on the placement of the sewerage system.
Residential building location:
- 50 m from aeration treatment plants;
- 300 m from drain wells and station;
- 25 m from the filter field;
- 8 m from the filter well.
Septic location:
- not less than 20-50 m from any water sources (well, well, reservoir);
- not less than 10 m from the garden.
Before proceeding with the installation of sewerage in a private house, you must make its project. You should not work without it, since sewage is such a system in which approximation is unacceptable. It is better to contact a design bureau or architects who will help create a quality project, taking into account the climate, operating conditions, soil and site. It's good if you do a sewerage project along with a house project even before construction.
All work on the installation of the sewer system is not difficult. You only need to properly dilute the pipes around the house, connect them to the collector and bring them to the septic tank. For ground work, you need to hire an excavator, although you can do it yourself. The main is the development of the project and right choice sewer systems.
The phrase “conveniences on the street” can be heard less and less in the private sectors. This is not surprising - after all, everyone strives for comfort. However, it is out of the question if on a frosty night, waking up, you have to dress and run through the snow to a booth, standing 15 m from the dwelling. So home craftsmen equip latrines directly in the house. But in order for them to function normally, it is necessary to properly mount the sewage disposal system in a septic tank located on the street. Today we will consider how the sewerage system is installed in a private house with our own hands. We will also consider the scheme of its device, and along the way we will find out the cost of such work when performed by specialists.
Read in the article:
How to draw up a diagram of a sewerage device in a private house with your own hands
Starting to draw up a sewerage scheme for a private house, you need to decide on the number of drain points. It should be understood that if there are two floors in a residential building, the scheme of each is mounted, as planned, separately, with subsequent output to a common riser overlooking the septic tank.
The presence of only one riser is unacceptable only in the case of installing a pool or sauna - for them it will be necessary to mount a separate drain.
Important! From the completeness and correctness of the compiled sewerage scheme for a private house with your own hands, its performance and ease of installation will depend. The plan must indicate the length of all pipes - this will help to correctly calculate the amount of material.
Problems that may be encountered in design
The main difficulty in drawing up a project can be the introduction of a sewer pipe into the house. To do this, you will have to break through the foundation or install special pumps. Their installation will also be necessary when installing a bathroom in the basement or basement. At the same time, a special installation capable of grinding organic matter will not interfere. The sewage pump, together with the assembled knives, is called a multi-lift.
Expert opinion
Water supply and sewerage design engineer, LLC "ASP North-West"
Ask a specialist“If the house is under construction, then regardless of whether the toilet is planned inside the house or not, it is worth building a sewer pipe into the foundation. For starters, you can just turn it off. If you need to install a sewer, it will be very useful.”
When designing, the number of residents must be taken into account. This indicator will directly affect both the volume of the septic tank and the diameter sewer pipes to be used when installing the system. Do not forget about the depth of soil freezing - the system must be in the ground below this mark.
What types of sewers exist
The main types can be called:
- Dry closets. This format is not very common in private homes. It is more suitable for giving, where there is no need for a constantly functioning sewer.
- Cesspool- the easiest to install and cost-effective option. Its inconvenience is that it requires periodic pumping using special equipment, and this is not a cheap pleasure.
- septic tank- the most common type of sewerage system. Waste products are processed using live bacteria and microorganisms, or by adding chemicals to the container that decompose organic waste.
The septic tank device cannot be called cheap, but it allows you to do without pumping for a long time. The main task is to add the necessary substances in time. As for the sewerage system itself for a private house, it will be the same for both the cesspool and the septic tank.
Do-it-yourself sewerage in a private house: a diagram and its main components
When drawing up a project for laying sewers in a private house, it should be noted on the diagram the location of plumbing devices, such as a sink or. All pipes are also taken into account (their length and diameter are prescribed in the plan), connections, corners and branches. Data are entered on the location of the riser and its output to the septic tank.
If you describe in detail all the parameters, you can mount the entire system much faster and better. The plan, after the installation of the sewer, must be saved. It can help with blockages or other emergency situations.
When drawing up a sewerage scheme for a private one-story house (as well as buildings with several floors), it is important to consider the installation sites for cleaning - special branches with plugs that will help get rid of blockages. Do not forget about the calculation of the slope of the highway. With a weak slope, the drain will be ineffective, and if it is excessive, grease and dirt will settle on the walls, which will eventually lead to an emergency. Let's try to figure out how to properly draw up a diagram of the sewer system.
Drawing up a scheme of the sewer system
The first thing to do is to draw a floor plan of all the premises of the building. It is more convenient if such schemes are available - quite often such schemes are drawn up during construction. In this case, it can be copied, and sewerage routes can already be “laid” along it. Having indicated the installation points of plumbing devices, we begin measurements. Every millimeter can play a role here.
Important! When installing thinner pipes (for example, from a sink), if they are longer than necessary, there is a danger of their curvature. In this case, the water will stagnate, which will lead to a build-up of grease and dirt and blockage.
If possible, it is better to place all plumbing devices in the immediate vicinity of the riser - this will allow sewerage to be performed with the greatest efficiency. All tie-ins in the riser are indicated. A prerequisite is the connection of the toilet drain directly to the main pipe, without additional connections. The drain of the bathroom and the sink can be combined - this will save material and get rid of extra pipes and tie-in to the main riser.
What diameter should the pipes be
The diameter of the pipe is selected based on the number of residents and the planned intensity of use of the system. However, there are also generally accepted norms. So the diameter of the main riser directly to the septic tank is usually 100-110 mm. The same diameter as the toilet drain. But from the sinks and the bathroom there are thinner pipes. Most often, for such purposes, a diameter of 50 mm is used. This thickness will be enough.
All connections and tie-ins must be made at an angle of 450. If the angle of the sewer pipe is even, it is this point that will periodically become clogged.
When installing a sewer system, it should be understood that the riser must go to the roof, from where air will be supplied. Consider what happens if there is no air access, and the upper part of the riser is muffled, using the example of a two-story house. Everyone knows that the toilet has a hydraulic lock, which prevents the smell from the system from entering the room. In the absence of free access to air, flush the water in the toilet on the first floor. Due to the rarefaction, water is “drawn out” from the plumbing device on the second floor. The hydraulic lock is open, all the smell from the sewer system rushes into the living quarters.
How can sewer efficiency be improved?
It is possible to improve the quality of autonomous sewerage both by installing additional equipment and purely by installation parameters. To do this, you just need to correctly distribute the slope of the highways. The most effective is a slope of 3 cm / m. But for greater efficiency of the sewer system, this parameter can be increased to 4-5 cm / m. This will be quite enough for the efficient operation of the system and not enough for the rapid formation of grease or dirt deposits on the inner walls of the pipes.
Modern tools are very effective in fighting deposits on the walls. But do not expect a miracle from them when a thorough blockage occurs. Advertisements may claim that the tool can easily cope with any of them, but this is not entirely true. In fact, such funds are good for periodic prevention. If the pipe is already thoroughly clogged, then there is nothing better than the good old cable.
Speaking of additional equipment, one cannot fail to note the benefit in preventing blockages of equipment such as a waste disposal unit under the sink. It does not allow large cleanings and other debris to enter the sewer pipe. Everything that is sent to the drain after grinding, in consistency resembles a liquid porridge that is not capable of clogging the line.
How to make a sewer in a private house: stages of work
All work on the arrangement of the sewer system of a private house is carried out in several stages. There is no need to perform them without interruption, which means that installation can be carried out in your free time for a long time. However, according to professionals, such work is rarely delayed - as soon as the arrangement has begun, home master trying to get everything done as soon as possible. Consider step by step the steps that need to be performed. The algorithm of actions should be like this:
- calculate the required volume of the septic tank;
- install and equip the tank;
- we lay the highway from the septic tank to the house;
- we make internal wiring of sewer pipes and connect them to the system;
- connect plumbing fixtures.
By following this procedure and simple rules for the production of work, you can be sure that the system will work flawlessly. Let's analyze each step in more detail.
How to calculate the required volume of a septic tank for a private house
The calculation can be made empirically: for this you need to sum up the entire water consumption of the family living in the house. However, if the sewerage system is installed at the stage of construction of the dwelling, this method is unacceptable. Then you can take the average values recommended by SanPiN. However, it is much easier to use the specially designed calculator below:
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