Do-it-yourself installation and installation of a hanging toilet bowl. How to install a wall-mounted toilet - we save space correctly Installing a wall-hung toilet installation buttons

Suspended systems are gaining more and more popularity. This is not surprising, since the wall-hung toilet takes less space compared to floor systems. In addition, they simplify the cleaning process, as there are no hard-to-reach places. Given that an aesthetically pleasing toilet bowl looks much more aesthetically pleasing, such a high interest in suspension systems becomes understandable. But the installation process often raises questions wall hung toilet so this process needs to be considered.

1. Preparatory work.
2. Installing the installation
3. Toilet installation.

Each stage does not cause any difficulties for a person who has experience working with the tool.

Preparatory work

First you need to determine the place where the toilet will stand. If redevelopment is not planned. And only the equipment is being replaced, it is natural that the place will not change. Otherwise, it all depends on the future interior of the room. It is important to know which wall is located behind the future location of the toilet. This is due to the fact that it is attached only to the main wall. A drywall partition will not work, as it simply cannot support the weight of the system and will break.

When the place is determined, it is necessary to bring cold water to it and a drain from the sewer for waste disposal. This must be done before installing the installation system, since after it the work will be difficult.

When the place is determined and prepared, you can proceed to the installation installation.

Installation of the installation system under the wall-hung toilet

In order to properly install the installation, it is important to approach the markup process with care. This stage is very important, since an incorrectly marked system will stand unevenly and, as a result, will have to be redone all over again.

Therefore, before installation, it is necessary to carefully measure everything and determine the height of the future toilet bowl. Experts recommend that it does not exceed one meter, but if the family is tall, this number can be increased. When the place and height are determined, markings are applied for fasteners and holes are drilled. It is preferable to use not ordinary dowels, but special anchor bolts, since the load will be static and constant and quite large. Dowels will not be able to provide sufficient fastening reliability, so system distortions are possible in the future.

The reliability of fastening and immobility of the structure should be given special attention, since the system will function for many years and must be properly fixed. If desired, it can be further strengthened to achieve complete immobility.

When the installation system is installed, it must be vertically aligned in the front plane, the top plane must be horizontal, and the carrier frame itself must be securely fixed and stationary. This is the only way to ensure good view and normal operation of the system in the future.

Bowl mounting

After all installation work has been completed, the niche is sealed with drywall. It is advisable to use moisture resistant material so that it does not swell from moisture. At the same time, one should not forget about the need for access to the drain tank, therefore, it is necessary to provide a hatch in the finish.

After finishing is completed, the toilet bowl is installed. This stage of work is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, since different models may require different actions. But the differences are not significant, the actions differ only in small details.

If the preliminary calculations and measurements were made correctly, then the height of the bowl will be about 40 centimeters from the floor. This value is considered optimal and most convenient for ordinary people.

If you follow the instructions and carefully and accurately work, then the process of installing a hanging toilet will not cause difficulties. As could be seen, complex work no, so almost everyone can install a toilet with their own hands.

Video How to install a hanging toilet

Installing a GROHE installation

Recently, the tendency to install a hanging toilet has gained great popularity in the construction and finishing business. This type of plumbing and sewerage equipment is probably present in every home. In two-thirds of homes, toilets are still installed the old tried and true method of floor mounting. Today, more and more preference is given to these suspended structures.

What is the popularity of such a product? Hanging toilets look better and more modern, which certainly affects the popularity of the product. By installing a toilet in this format, you can save a lot of money. To do this, you need to do one thing - learn how to mount a wall-mounted toilet with your own hands. Is this an impossible task?

Not at all, this is on the shoulder for everyone who reads the installation instructions and tips. The first step on the way to mastering the process of self-mounting a wall-hung toilet is to understand the main aspects of the design of the device.

Why is it so important to understand the features of a wall-mounted toilet? Yes, because after that it is much more likely to succeed in the process of installing the device. So, a standard toilet of this type consists of three parts, which include:

1. Steel frame (reinforced element, as it is the basis for attaching the largest and heaviest element of the toilet bowl, its bowl). The process of installing a wall-mounted toilet bowl is strongly recommended to start with this component. The frame must be fixed to the wall, and also attached to the floor, so in the future the toilet will be able to fully withstand the load in the form of the weight of an adult. For this reason, the frame should never be mounted on fragile walls, an example of which are drywall partitions (there is a possibility that the fastening will be unreliable and the toilet will simply fall).

2. Drain tank (made of plastic, hidden from human eyes during installation by installing it in the wall itself). In its shape, it does not look like a standard floor-standing toilet bowl, because it must fit in a rather narrow space. On the front wall of the tank there is a special cutout necessary for mounting the trigger mechanism. Modern wall-mounted toilet bowls almost always have a dosed flush function, thanks to which you can choose the amount of water used for flushing.

3. Bowl (the only structural element of a hanging toilet that is not hidden from a person. It is also its most actively exploited part. The standard shape of this component is oval, although today on the market for similar sanitary products you can also find toilet bowls with round, rectangular or even triangular bowls) .

Another integral part of the design of the hanging toilet bowl is a set of fasteners, through which the installation and installation of the device to the wall and floor takes place. These materials include Teflon tape, polyethylene outlet, flexible hose, and studs.

Positive and negative aspects of installing a wall hung toilet.

Before you decide to install a wall hung toilet, you need to consider the main pros and cons regarding this issue.

The positive aspects of the installation include:

• saving the space occupied by the device;
• lack of an impressively sized leg for draining;
• weak noise from the descent of water;
• ultimate ease of maintenance.

However, we must not forget that the installation of a toilet bowl with a designated design also carries a number of disadvantages, among which the following points stand out:

• the need to mount drain tank inside a wall or niche (otherwise the size of the protrusion of the hanging toilet will not differ from the same indicator for a standard floor-standing device);
• the likelihood of transferring sewer and water pipes;
• the need to create a special recess for the drain tank.

Ways to install a wall hung toilet.

At the moment, two methods have been developed for attaching a wall-mounted toilet bowl: to an installation or to a concrete base. The owner of the plumbing device has the right to choose between these options, guided by only two criteria: if he wants an almost one hundred percent guarantee of fastening that will not disperse even under serious mechanical stress, then you need to pay attention to the installation for installation. If the main goal: to install the toilet faster and without particularly significant material costs, then mounting on a concrete base is most suitable. Now let's look at aspects of each of these methods.

main feature this method fixing a wall-mounted toilet bowl consists in the fact that the device is attached to the wall, using a special frame pre-mounted in it, which plays the role of the installation. In order to correctly carry out fasteners in this way without the help of professionals, it is necessary to strictly follow the installation plan, which is divided into several stages:

- Installation of the toilet frame. This component of the device design is attached to the floor and the main wall using dowels inserted into specially made holes. Further, at the place of attachment, sewerage and water pipes are drawn out. The installation itself must be level. Requirements for it: full parallel fit to the wall to which it is attached. At this stage, it is required to determine the height of the toilet bowl above the floor. This indicator is equal to forty centimeters, however, it changes at the request of the owners of the housing;

- Bringing water to the tank. At the request of the owner of the device, the eyeliner can be supplied both elastic and rigid. Remember, while the piping is being installed, the tank valve must be kept closed, otherwise a situation may arise with damage to the water supply;

- Connecting the toilet to the sewer system. This stage begins with the fact that the toilet outlet is inserted into the sewer outlet, and after this operation, the resulting connection is fastened with a corrugation. To make it, the wall-mounted toilet bowl must be screwed for a short time at the installation. After that, it must be removed again, the time for its installation will come at one of the subsequent stages;

- Sheathing the work area with drywall. Sheets are attached to the frame already at the moment when it is fixed on the wall. Often, the manufacturer of the goods provides the user with instructions for sheathing plasterboard, which attaches an algorithm of actions complete with the toilet itself. Drywall coating can be carried out in two ways: either by completely sheathing the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wall, or by covering only the area of ​​​​the installation itself. See the video of the plasterboard installation cladding below.

- Fastening the toilet bowl is the final stage, its essence: hanging this component of the device on a part of the steel frame using two small spiers.

As you can see, there are no particular difficulties in self-assembly of a wall-mounted toilet bowl for installation, you just need to pay great attention to the installation of the frame itself, since the reliability of the entire final result of the installation depends on its successful and verified fastening.

Installation of a wall hung toilet bowl on a concrete base.

This method differs from the previous one in that the toilet is not mounted on a frame built into the wall, but on a concrete base made by oneself. The standard list of parts required when installing a toilet in this way includes boards, nuts, screws and washers, two rods, the threads of which are not thinner than two centimeters, and the length ranges from half a meter to eighty centimeters, plastic pipe no shorter than ten centimeters, a drain sleeve and silicone sealant. In the future, the algorithm of actions for fixing a wall-mounted toilet bowl without installation looks like this:

- two rods are mounted in the main wall. In the future, they will be enough to withstand a load of four hundred to five hundred kilograms, which is enough for a solid fit of the toilet;

- the height of the toilet bowl is set, after which it is possible to cut and install the drain coupling;

- on the boards that will go as formwork, places for holes for fasteners are calculated, after which you can proceed with their installation;

- the length of the penetration of the rods is calculated (usually it should not exceed fifteen centimeters), after which they are fixed in the wall using a special adhesive for concrete;

The further process of installing a wall-mounted toilet bowl on a concrete base does not have any fundamental differences with the process of attaching a standard floor-standing toilet bowl. A drain is attached, the joints are sealed, the bowl is installed on the rods, which are fixed on top with nuts. The final touch is the installation of a drain tank over the bowl.

What is the fundamental difference between this method of installing a hanging toilet bowl and the previous one is that there is no need to purchase and install an expensive steel frame. It is with the help of this method of installing a plumbing fixture that it will be possible to save a lot of financial resources.

Cosmetic work after installation of a wall hung toilet.

After carrying out the main stages of installing a wall-hung toilet, you will only have to do a little - take care of the filing and finishing of the device. Regardless of the chosen installation option for the apparatus, drywall sheets are used for its lining. When assembling a toilet bowl with these sheets, the flush cistern and steel frame are closed, while the toilet bowl and the flush button remain open.

When installing without installation, drywall can be used to close the concrete base, as well as the drain pipe. The hole for access to the tank remains open.

Do-it-yourself wall-mounted toilet installation. Video lesson.

The desire of designers to improve appearance toilet bowls, the creation of stylish bathrooms contributed to the popularization of block and frame structures with a hinged bowl.

The installation itself is not cheap, and you will also have to pay extra for its installation. Therefore, many home craftsmen hone their plumbing skills and carry out installation work on their own. Agree, would it be nice to save money by fixing the toilet to the installation with your own hands?

We will help you resolve this issue. In the article, we describe in detail the device, the principle of operation and types of structures, and also provide step by step technology and photo instructions for installing the toilet.

If the appearance of the external elements of the installation depends only on the imagination of the designer, then its arrangement internal structure can be divided into 2 options: frame and block.

Image Gallery

The frame of the drain button is fixed with latches and can be easily removed. Under it is a hole for supplying a water hose with a compact faucet. Within this "mounting" window on the front wall of the tank is and, which is twisted out of the tank by hand and repaired without dismantling the box.

Myth #3. A wall hung toilet takes up minimal space.

Block and frame installations require an additional 20-25 cm of bathroom space. Therefore, these structures take up even more space than floor standing toilet. The only option to reduce space is to place the installation in a wall niche.

Myth #4. There are no spare parts for block installations.

The sizes of components from most manufacturers are standardized, because repairable models have priority when buying. In plumbing stores, picking up a broken part is not difficult. In addition, you can do it yourself.

Step-by-step installation of installation and toilet bowl

Installing a plumbing installation yourself is easy. The main danger is the leakage of the joint sewer pipe and toilet spigot after final installation.

To avoid such problems, you must follow all the rules step by step installation installations. Next, installation schemes for toilet bowls with various designs will be considered.

Required Tools

To carry out the installation of the installation and attaching the toilet bowl to it, the following tools and materials are needed:

1. Screwdriver.
2. Wrench.
3. Drill-perforator with drills.
4. Pliers.
5. Dowels and bolts.
6. Hammer.
7. Level.
8. Roulette with a marker.
9. Silicone.

The minimum of tools and materials that will be useful when installing the installation itself is listed. When installing the box, other devices are needed, but this work is best left to professionals.

Installing a block installation

You can install a block installation in two ways:

1. In a specially prepared niche in the wall.
2. On a concrete slab, which is then sewn up with drywall.

Regardless of the type of installation, the list of steps for assembling the installation remains the same.

Step one. Marking in the bathroom. In small narrow rooms the toilet bowl is installed along its axis, and in large ones it is better to place the bowl along the axis of the drain.

First you need to draw a line with a marker or chalk from corner to corner of the room along the wall where the installation is planned to be installed. Then, along the installation axis of the bowl, it is necessary to draw a line perpendicular to the first one, using a building corner.

step two. Formation of attachment points. In accordance with the intended axis of the installation of the bowl, the fixation points of the block structure are determined. If the axis of the bowl and the wall are skewed, wooden or plastic spacers can be placed under the fasteners to achieve an angle of 90 degrees.

In loose concrete slabs, fastening with dowels is preferred, which provide the maximum contact area of ​​the fastener with the wall.

Be sure to center the location of the dowels relative to the middle of the toilet drain hole. If the distance between the fixing points of the block is 60 cm, then each dowel hole should be drilled at a distance of 30 cm from the axis of the bowl.

After marking, it is necessary to drill holes with a drill and insert the fasteners attached to the product into them.

Step Three. Fixing the block structure. The drain tank is screwed with screws or anchor bolts to the wall. After that, the structure is brought water hose, and pipes are attached that will dock with the toilet bowl.

Inside the "installation" window, there is usually a flexible hose that comes with the kit, into which water is supplied through an adapter with a tap

Step Four. Screwing in the support pins of the bowl. After fixing the block mechanism, a toilet bowl is attached to it. Metal rods are inserted into the holes for its fastening and the places of their fastening on the wall are determined so that the height of the toilet seat is 40-48 cm.

The rods are made of heavy-duty rigid steel and can withstand loads up to 450 kg without deformation. Subsequently, it will not be possible to change their location without dismantling the decorative box.

After that, the toilet bowl is removed, and holes are drilled with a drill in concrete slab under the rods, which are then fixed in the wall with fasteners.

Step five. Sewer drain installation. The toilet bowl is hung on the support pins and a pipe for draining water from the tank is inserted into it. After that, the sewerage scheme is determined and its installation is carried out with rigid fixation of the outlet 110-mm pipe.

Rigid fixation of the sewer connection is required, because when installing the toilet bowl, the pipe should not change its position

Step Six. Sheathing of a block installation and installation of a toilet bowl. After installing the sewer, the toilet bowl is removed and the decorative sheathing of the entire plumbing structure begins with tiles or moisture-resistant drywall.

The drain button and its frame are installed last. But the operation of the drain mechanism should be tested only after the sealant has dried at the sewer joint

When the sheathing work is completed, the drain button is mounted, and the bowl is placed on the drain pipes and supporting metal pins. After that, the toilet takes root with nuts to the wall.

Instead of sheathing the drain hole of a block design, support rods and sewers, they are sometimes poured with concrete.

When mixing concrete for pouring, it is necessary to buy only certified materials, as well as follow the technology, because the structure will experience heavy loads

To do this, after the fifth step, a common wooden formwork is mounted around these structures, and its internal volume is poured with concrete. After 5-7 days after pouring, the formwork is removed, and the toilet bowl is docked with support pins rigidly fixed in concrete, sewer pipes and a cistern drain.

Installation of a toilet bowl with a frame installation

The installation of a frame installation with a toilet bowl can be carried out in an arbitrary place in the bathroom. Single-frame structures are attached to the wall and floor at the same time, while double-frame installations can be installed in the middle of the room in a special partition.

The installation of both design options differs only in the place where the metal frame is attached and the shape of the decorative sheathing, so their installation will be considered within one step by step instructions.

Step one. Assembly frame structure. The installation of the installation begins with the assembly of the metal frame. To compensate for uneven floors and walls, retractable legs are provided in the frame design. After adjusting the position of the frame according to the level, the paws are rigidly fixed in the required position.

To regulate the distance between the wall and the frame, there is a special mechanism. Fixing the position of the foot must be done rigidly to avoid possible distortion of the frame.

The installation is applied to the place of installation, and the places where it is necessary to drill holes for the dowels are marked with a marker.

step two. Installing the tank on a metal frame. The height of the water tank can also be adjusted, but not in all installation models. The recommended height of the release button is 1 m from the floor surface.

The height of the drain button is not critical for the operation of the mechanism, but polls show that 100 cm is the best option.

Based on this parameter, the level of the drain tank location inside the metal frame is selected. Fittings for draining water are mounted together with the tank.

The frame structure often has a height-adjustable horizontal metal bar. It has holes or clips for attaching the support rods of the toilet bowl, pipes for draining water from the tank and sewage.

Step Three. Sewer installation. A 110 mm sewer pipe is laid to the frame.

Step Four. Frame fastening. Holes are drilled for fastening the metal frame, and then it is screwed with screws or anchor bolts to the wall and floor at the intended points. The optimal distance from the frame frame to the wall is 140-195 mm.

It will not be possible to screw the frame close to the wall, because a 110 mm sewer pipe must still be placed behind the metal paws

The sewer pipe is fixed to the frame using the available fasteners.

After the frame installation is fully assembled, it is necessary to make sure that the support heights of the pins and nozzles are correctly adjusted. For this, a toilet bowl is hung on the structure.

Step five. Leak test. A water pipe is connected to the drain tank and a tap is opened. After filling the tank, a test drain is performed. In the absence of leaks, the toilet bowl is removed and the installation lining begins.

Step Six. Formation of a box around a frame installation.

There are two ways to close the metal frame:

• sew up with drywall;
• overlay with bricks and tiles.

Before insulating the installation, it is necessary to close its nozzles with plugs or plastic bags. For sheathing, it is necessary to use a moisture-resistant gypsum board with a thickness of 12.5 mm. The box will be decorative element, which does not have a support load.

The front panel of the box must be reinforced at the back with a metal profile so that if you accidentally press the drywall with your hand, it does not burst and fail

When sheathing, it is necessary to foresee the formation of holes for the nozzles and support pins of the toilet bowl.

step seven. Fixing the toilet bowl to the installation frame. You can start installing the toilet bowl for installation immediately after plastering and painting the drywall box. If the metal frame was lined with bricks and tiles, then the toilet should be placed on it 10 days after the end of the work.

Between the bowl and the wall, instead of silicone, you can put a gasket made of insulation 1-2 mm thick to prevent cracking of the ceramic coating under loads

Before pushing the toilet bowl onto the support pins, it is necessary to lubricate with silicone rubber gaskets sewer pipes and the drain hole of the tank. Also, a layer of sealant is applied to the back wall of the toilet bowl at a distance of 5 mm from the edge along the entire perimeter of contact with the wall.

The bowl is fixed to the wall with two bolts screwed onto metal pins. A day later, you can make a test drain to check the operation of the entire installation.

Block and frame installations do not necessarily involve the installation of a hinged toilet bowl. It can be installed classically on the floor. The installation scheme of the floor-mounted toilet differs from the above methods only in the location of the fasteners and the sewer pipe.

When installing the toilet on the floor, it is fixed both on the supporting horizontal rods and screwed to the floor. Bowl manufacturers choose the type of attachment based on the shape of the product.

When fixing the toilet bowl to the floor, it is necessary to outline and drill in floor tiles two mounting holes. After sheathing the installation with a box, the toilet bowl is mounted to the sewer and cistern drain pipes, and then screwed to the floor using the existing fasteners.

After the final fixation of the toilet bowl, it is necessary to coat the perimeter of the base with silicone sealant so that water and dirt do not get under the bowl

You can additionally use to connect the sewer pipe and the toilet bowl.

The frame must be bolted in at least 4 places.

The water supply pipe must have a separate shut-off valve in a convenient location.

Following the proposed instructions will protect the apartment from flooding and prevent the need to dismantle the decorative box during the first years of operation of the toilet.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Videos in a few minutes will allow you to put together in your head a complete puzzle of assembly schemes for toilet installations. After viewing them, the above step-by-step instructions will become more understandable and conscious.

The process of assembling a frame installation:

Installing a block installation in a niche:

Fixing the toilet bowl to the installation frame:

The proposed step-by-step instructions for installing a toilet bowl with frame and block installations fit into several hours of work, if you do not take into account the time to create a decorative box.

The essence of the installation is reduced to a smooth and durable fastening of the frame, connecting the nozzles and docking the toilet bowl with the drain block. This can be done by every economic person who knows how to handle the necessary tool.

Do you have the practical skills of attaching a toilet bowl to an installation? Share own experience installation or ask questions on the topic of the article. The block for comments is located below.

Before starting the installation of the installation of the toilet bowl with your own hands, it is necessary to make preliminary markings on the wall and on the floor.

First, determine the vertical, which must coincide with the axis of the frame. There are three options:

1. Separate bathroom without washbasin and bidet. In this case, the vertical runs along the center of the wall on which or near which the installation is installed.
2. Bathroom with toilet and bidet. Both installations are lined up. And the vertical axes for each frame should pass so that they fall on the center of the selected place, taking into account the ergonomics of the bathroom. Under standard conditions, both axes should "divide" the wall into three equal parts.
3. Combined bathroom. The vertical on the wall must pass through the geometric center of the selected location.

The next step is to mark the center of the drain key on the vertical. For a block system, this is the only reference point, and it is usually located at a height of 1 m above the level of the finished floor. Therefore, thickness must be taken into account:

• leveling screed;
• underfloor heating with insulation and its own screed (if provided);
• finishing layer (tile adhesive plus tiles).

At the frame installation standard height this size (1 m) is written in the diagram, and it is short, then they are guided by the mounting height of a particular model.

Further markup is carried out as follows:

1. In the center of the key or the top of the frame, a horizontal line is beaten off in level and the installation width is marked on it.
2. From these points beat off the vertical down. They continue on the floor parallel to each other and perpendicular to the plane of the wall.
3. Mark on each line a distance greater than the installation depth indicated in the passport. The actual size must also take into account the gap from the tank to the wall of 1.5 cm, the method of laying the sewer pipe and its maximum external diameter at the joints. So with an installation depth of 12 cm, the minimum distance from the wall to the front surface of the installation is 13.5 cm - if the pipe "goes" under the ceiling, 15.5 cm - if the sewer pipe runs along the wall. And this is without taking into account the irregularities.
4. Connect the marks - this will be the line along which the attachment points of the legs to the floor are located.
5. Check the perpendicularity of this line relative to the side wall. If necessary, adjust it, making sure that the smallest distance to the wall is not less than the actual depth.

Marking on the wall for block installation is much easier, and consists only in applying attachment points to the wall. In accordance with the diagram and focusing on the recommended height of the flush button, they beat off the vertical axis on each side in a parallel line at a distance equal to half the installation width. And on these lines mark the points of attachment of the frame to the main wall.

Materials and tools

Even when buying an installation, you need to check the completeness. In addition to the frame itself, the tank, the inlet valve and the flush elbow, there must be:

• drain elbow;
• key;
• fasteners and fasteners;
• plugs for flush and drain pipes (so that debris does not get in during operation);
• gasket for mounting a wall-mounted toilet bowl (noise insulation).

In the case when do-it-yourself plumbing installation is done for the first time, it would be good to find out if the seller has spare parts for installation (if something goes wrong). All leading manufacturers produce spare parts and repair kits for installations - branch pipes, elbows, inlet and flush valves, membranes, seals and transitions. In addition, they must be in stock different kinds mounts and fasteners, which can be purchased separately.

It is also necessary to purchase a set of pipes for connecting a wall-hung toilet to the installation, silicone sealant for sewer pipe joints and a fum tape for installing a shut-off valve on a water pipe.

To install a wall hung toilet with an installation, you will need the following tools:

• level, tape measure, ruler, building corner, pencil or marker;
• perforator and drill bits for concrete;
• hammer;
• a set of wrenches (as well as an adjustable or gas wrench);
• screwdrivers;
• pliers.

If a frame is immediately mounted from a profile for subsequent plasterboard sheathing, then another tool is needed for these works:

• metal scissors;
• drill;
• knife or hacksaw;
• screwdriver

Features of installation installation and toilet bowls

As mentioned above, there are three options for "installation and toilet" combinations.

Wall hung toilet with block design

Easiest for self installation system mounting option - installing the frame on the surface of the main wall and laying a quarter-brick wall below the structure to provide a reliable stop for the wall-hung toilet. The bond size of a single brick is 12.5 cm plus 1 cm of vertical masonry mortar joint, and the resulting 13.5 cm is just right for most models in which the installation depth lies within these limits.

Another option is to buy a block installation, which includes two special supports in the floor to "support" the bowl of the wall-hung toilet bowl. These supports are put on the fixing pins of the sanitary ware, and they do not allow the bowl to “fall through” back. These models include Geberit Kombifix (110.340.00.5). If these accessories are not included in the kit, they can be purchased separately, for example Geberit Kombifix stops (457.888.26.1) or Alcaplast mounting kit (M90).

Do-it-yourself installation of a block installation takes place according to the following algorithm:

1. At the marked attachment points on the wall, holes are made with a perforator, to which the frame is screwed onto dowels.
2. Dowels or anchors are driven in and the frame is screwed to them.
3. Insert the tank into the frame, connect it to water pipe(a water supply tube may be included in the delivery) and to the flush elbow.
4. Screw the mounting studs to secure the bowl.
5. Connect the drain elbow to the sewer through the adapter pipe (from the kit or purchased separately).

Wall hung toilet with frame installation

This is the most common design concealed installation- it is suitable for installation near any wall or partition, regardless of its load-bearing capacity.

Installation of the installation for the toilet takes place in the following sequence:

1. Holes for dowels are drilled at the marked points of attachment to the floor and wall.
2. A tank with a flush mechanism and a flush knee is attached to the frame.
3. Install the frame and attach the legs to the subfloor.
4. It is adjusted in height and horizontal level with the help of retractable support elements. Fix the structure with bolts in the required position.
5. With the help of metal fasteners, the structure is fixed to the wall. These are usually studs with an adjusting head on the frame side and mounting brackets or plates on the wall side.
6. Screw in the studs and lock. Install the mounting brackets in place and screw to the wall.
7. Adjust the vertical position of the frame by screwing or unscrewing the studs using the head (adjustment depth up to 45 mm). Lock the position of the structure with a lock nut.
8. Attach the cuff for the drain knee to the frame. A knee is installed, connected to a sewer pipe through an adapter, fixed to the frame with a clamp.
9. Connect the inlet valve of the tank to the water pipe using a complete or purchased adapter.
10. Attach the studs for the hanging bowl.
11. Temporarily install a button and a toilet. Open the water, test the system for performance, check the tightness of connections and connections.
12. If no problems are found, the button and the toilet are removed. Close the holes of both knees with plugs and proceed to the sheathing of the installation.

Note. One of the features of the installation of a frame installation is the possibility of mounting on a finished floor surface. In this case, the marking and installation is carried out without correction for the thickness of the layers of the finish coating.

Floor standing toilet with block installation

One of the low-budget options for using a block installation system is a flush-mounted cistern without a frame with a front flush plate. Moreover, this option can be used for walls made of any materials. The load from a tank with a volume of 6 liters can withstand both a half-brick wall and a frame made of a metal profile or wooden beam(if the tank is attached to the frame itself or embedded elements).

The only problem that may arise during installation is the alignment of the flush hole of the floor-standing toilet bowl with the flush elbow of the tank.

Attaching the floor standing toilet to the installation

The correct installation of the floor-standing toilet for installation is only possible if the tiles on the floor have already been laid or there is an exact level of the finished surface. In this case, markings on the wall are made by choosing not the flush key as the reference point, but the center of the flush hole in the toilet. And the installation goes like this:

1. Choose a place to install plumbing.
2. Beat off the vertical axis on the wall. Mark on it the point of connection of the floor-standing toilet bowl to the flush knee of the tank.
3. Relative to this point, the dimensions of the block installation and the attachment points are noted.
4. They fix the tank (in a niche, on a wall, in a frame partition).
5. Connect to a water pipe.
6. Install the flush elbow.
7. They make a sewer line (along the wall, in a grooved channel, inside a frame partition.
8. Temporarily connect the system and the toilet. Check the operation and tightness of the system.
9. Close the flush and drain pipes with plugs, the studs with tubes.
10. The installation is sewn up with drywall (with holes for flushing and draining). Or close up a niche and strobes with a solution.
11. Spend finishing walls.
12. Connect and fix the floor toilet.

The procedure for installing a wall-hung toilet

The hanging bowl is mounted after the installation for the toilet has been installed and finished Finishing work. And depending on the type of installation, installation method and wall materials, there are the following options for preparing for finishing:

• install a block or frame system and sheathe the entire surface from floor to ceiling with a double layer of drywall;
• install a frame or block system and make a drywall box;
• install the frame system in the frame wall;
• install a frame or block system in a niche and or cover with a layer of plaster.

After the installation and communications are “hidden” under the rough surface of the walls and floor, they are finished with selected materials (tiles or decorative plaster). Then proceed to the installation of a hanging toilet.

Note. It is believed that the maximum benefit from the hidden installation of the tank and communications is achieved if you install the installation for the toilet in a niche.

Niche for installation

A niche in the wall for installation is made if the mounting depth of the frame, materials and wall thickness allow such work to be performed. And besides the niche in the wall, channels for the water and sewer pipes are also ditched, which, like the installation, must be mounted discreetly.

Important. For load-bearing brick walls, this method is not suitable (it is technically impossible to make a niche with your own hands for reinforced concrete walls). And if the vault of a niche can be reinforced with an insert from a metal profile (standard practice for an opening), then this option is not suitable for hidden pipe laying - the chasing of horizontal channels in a load-bearing wall is prohibited at the regulatory level.

And without horizontal strobes, it is extremely difficult to make hidden wiring - only if the pipes approach the niche from below, and before it are laid in a screed or between a log of a wooden floor.

For a niche in the wall, there is the only option provided by the manufacturer - for a block installation with an attached toilet bowl.

In addition to this option, a bathroom niche is also used, in which there are water and sewer risers. In this case, a frame made of a metal profile is installed in a niche, and a frame installation for a wall-hung toilet is attached to it.

Installation of a frame with a tank in a niche

The complexity of this method - the installation of the frame in a niche takes place "non-standard". The installation instructions of GEBERIT and GROHE do not cover this option, and there are no fasteners for this in the kit.

The installation of the frame in a niche takes place according to the following algorithm:

1. Mark on the floor the installation line of the legs, taking into account the installation depth, the location of the water and sewer risers. The marking should be perpendicular to the walls of the niche or be in the plane of the adjacent surface.
2. From this line beat off the verticals on the walls of the niche.
3. Reinforced UA50 profile guides are mounted on the floor, niche side walls and ceiling.
4. Install the frame in the profile and fasten it to the floor, having previously drilled holes for the dowels.
5. Set the height of the legs and the level of the frame horizontally.
6. Fasteners (studs or other type of fastening) are made to a specific size for rigid fixing of the installation to the “far” wall of the niche. Holes are drilled for these fasteners and the frame is fixed.
7. Cut off a section of the UA profile along the width of the niche. Attach it to the side profiles and frame.
8. Mount flush and drain fittings for a hanging toilet bowl. Install the studs to secure the bowl. Connect the tank to the water supply, the drain elbow to the sewer. Temporarily hang the toilet and connect it to the installation. Check the system for tightness and performance.
9. Remove the tank, close the flush and drain holes with plugs, and the toilet studs with protective tubes. Drywall cut to size is attached to the profiles in two layers.

Sewerage supply

The supply of water to the installation of the toilet does not cause difficulties. And with any tank connection (side or top), it is always possible to lay a half-inch rigid or flexible pipe. With a connection to the sewer, the situation is more complicated. The installation diagram shows two types of connection:

• the knee goes down at a right angle;
• the knee is rotated 45° in the plane of the frame.

Based on these options, in most cases, the connection of the installation to the sewer was built.

The first option, for example, is used for direct connection to the drain, when the frame is in the same niche with it. The second option is used when laying a drain pipe to the riser along the wall.

But there are cases when both options are not suitable due to the limited space and the peculiarity of the geometry of the bathroom - the large diameter of the rigid pipes and the fixed angles of the knees prevent this from being done correctly. And in order to solve the problem of how to turn the sewer elbow from the installation and provide the required angle of inclination, for example, corrugation D 90/110 MM FLEXI from ALCAPLAST is used. But in this case, it is necessary to check the slope of the corrugations.

Connecting communications

For connection to the water supply, the installation kit includes an inlet valve with an external outlet for a ½ inch pipe and an angle shut-off valve inside the installation.

Installations of toilet bowls with a bidet function provide for the supply of an additional tube to the fitting for intimate hygiene. And to ensure comfortable temperature, such models are still connected to the mains for heating water, which is used for washing. And for this, fasteners are provided for mounting a protective tube of electrical wiring.

How to check the system for operability

After connecting to communications, before sewing up the installation, it is necessary to check the operability and the system for leaks. To do this, carry out a preliminary installation of the toilet bowl with the installation:

• adapters with cuffs and sealing rings are inserted into the flush and drain holes of the installation;
• “put” the toilet on the studs and move it as close as possible to the installation so that the adapters fit into the toilet more tightly (you won’t be able to push it close - the nozzles have a length with a margin);
• open the shut-off valve on the inlet valve;
• when the tank is full, drain the water (for pneumatics, you need to connect the button and the flush valve with tubes, for mechanics, activate the flush valve rod by hand).

After checking and eliminating possible malfunctions, the toilet bowl, adapter pipes and the button are removed.

How to install a wall hung toilet for installation

Even when choosing a place and marking, it is provided that the height of the hanging toilet bowl from the floor without a lid is 40 cm. But if after laying the tiles it turns out that it will hang 2 cm higher or lower, this is acceptable.

The wall-mounted toilet bowl is fastened to the studs after adjusting the size of the adapter pipes for connecting the drain and flush of the toilet bowl to the installation:

1. Remove protective caps and tubes.
2. Insert the adapters into the knees and mark the level "0" on them - the plane of the surface of the installation cladding.
3. Then the adapters are inserted with the other side into the toilet bowl (the sealing cuff is put on the flush). Mark the level "0" on the toilet.
4. Shorten the adapters by the difference between the two marks.

They put a gasket on the studs (it serves to protect the finish and dampens structural noise during the drain) and proceed to install the wall-hung toilet on the installation:

1. Insert rubber bushings into the holes for mounting the hanging toilet bowl.
2. Insert adapter pipes into the drain and flush holes of the bowl.
3. They put the wall-mounted toilet on the studs so that the adapter pipes fit exactly into their holes on the installation, and the bowl fits snugly against the wall.
4. Elastic washers, steel washers are put on the studs and nuts are screwed.
5. Before you finally tighten the fasteners, you can slightly adjust the level on the horizon relative to the height of the toilet from the floor.

Mounting the flush button

According to the principle of operation, the toilet flush button is of two types: mechanical and pneumatic.

Even at the installation assembly stage, a flush valve is installed. Each company has its own design, but the principle of operation is general:

• a mechanical button actuates the flush with a pull, separate for each key - economy mode and full flush;
• at the pneumatic flush, two tubes go from the valve to the button - for each mode it has its own.

Installation of the drain button begins with its attachment to the flush valve. For a mechanical drive, the traction (pins) must be “adjusted” in length and each connected to its own key, and for pneumatics, connect the tubes.

The button is then "latched" into the socket.

Common Difficulties

The main problems arise due to the limited size of most bathrooms. This is especially true for strictly housing stock, when poor geometry of the room is added to the small “sizes” - the absence of right angles and parallels at the enclosing surfaces. In this case, even the slope of the wall is checked before installation. And the alignment of the walls further reduces the opportunity for "manoeuvre" when installing the installation under the toilet.

Helps avoid mistakes and rework right choice the type and model of the installation, as well as the accuracy of the layout, frame location and compliance with the installation scheme.

And the main condition is the accuracy of handling mechanisms and sanitary ware. Even "tightening" the fasteners of the inlet and outlet valves or the hinged bowl can lead to a violation of the tightness of the connections or damage to the device itself.

What is important to know. It is necessary to buy installation and plumbing of reputable brands. It is better to do this at dealers or trading companies that have appropriate agreements with service centers and give a guarantee for the purchased goods. In addition, if necessary, you can buy additional accessories or a repair kit for the selected installation model from such sellers.

Not so long ago, interesting alternatives to simple floor-standing toilets appeared on the market - suspended installations. Today they are chosen by many consumers, noting interesting design such products. But not all users know how to properly install such plumbing items. The article will discuss how to install simple and suspended installations.

What it is?

Installation is a special system, which is a well-thought-out design that allows you to securely and firmly fix the toilet bowl and other plumbing fixtures. In addition, such elements are necessary to hide plumbing connections.

Peculiarities

According to consumers and experts, modern suspended and floor installations are very convenient. Using such an interesting system, you can put the toilet so that its tank is securely hidden behind the wall. At the same time, it is additionally protected by a heat-insulating material, which provides sound insulation of plumbing in the process of its use.

When installing the installation, only the toilet bowl itself is always noticeable. Thanks to this feature, the room in the bathroom or toilet will seem much more spacious, even if in fact its area is modest.

Professionals say that the installation of such systems can be done by hand. To do this, you just need to stock up on all necessary tools and strictly follow the step by step instructions. Of course, if you are not very confident in your own abilities or are afraid to take on such work, then it is better for you to call experienced craftsmen,

If you decide to install a floor or suspended installation in your home, then you should familiarize yourself with the advantages and disadvantages of such systems. First, let's look at their advantages.

• First of all, it should be noted the compact dimensions of such products. Thanks to this characteristic, suspended or floor installations can be installed even in very small rooms, where every centimeter counts.
• Such systems are distinguished by quiet operation, since the toilet bowls are hidden behind the walls.
• Many housewives note that it is much easier to clean rooms with such structures - there are fewer hard-to-reach areas.
• If you decide to install a suspended structure, then you will have the opportunity to lay out a mosaic on the floor or beautiful pattern from tiles - nothing will interfere with such a composition, violating the integrity of the picture.

• Properly installed installations save water. This is due to the fact that in such designs there are two buttons. One of them is responsible for a large flow of water, and the second for a small one.
• Such types of plumbing are not prone to breakage. If they do occur, they can be easily eliminated.
• Installations are quite acceptable to install in the conditions of "Khrushchev".
• Suspended and floor installations are reliable and durable structures. They seamlessly withstand impressive loads (up to 400 kg). Of course, this advantage takes place if the toilet has been installed correctly, and the bowl itself is made of quality material.
• Suspended and floor installations look very original. Their design attracts attention and makes the interior of the bathroom or toilet more stylish and modern.

Installations have their own weak sides Let's look at them in more detail.

• Such systems are not cheap. It should also be taken into account that, coupled with additional expenses for installation work, such a design can cost a tidy sum.
• In such designs there are always hidden elements that become inaccessible for repair and maintenance.
• Replacing classic toilets is a fairly simple job, but if you decide to replace the installation, then you will most likely have to renovate the entire room.

Kinds

There are several types of suspended and floor installations. Let's get to know them better.

block

Block installations have support posts and fasteners. Such structures can be used for the installation of both floor and suspended products. Block systems are reliable, strong and durable. Their installation is considered quite simple.

However, block installations have one serious drawback - they require the mandatory presence of a main wall in the room.

Framework

The frame (or frame) system is no less reliable, strong and durable. These structures can easily withstand loads up to 400 kg.

Frame options can be mounted on four points on the wall or two points on the floor and two on the ceiling. Sometimes such structures are installed directly on the floor.

Frame structures do not require a main wall, like block options. Such systems can be mounted not only on concrete and brick, but even on plasterboard partitions.

These structures are based on a solid steel frame. You can install not only a toilet bowl on it, but also other additional elements. For example, it could be a sink or a bidet. It is possible to install the frame system not only near a straight wall, but also in a corner.

corner

If you want to choose an original and fashionable design that is far from the usual standards, then you should pay attention to corner installations. However, it should be noted that such a design can only be installed if there are right angles of 90 degrees in the room.

Installation of corner products is more difficult. In addition, such installations are more expensive than other options.

Varieties of toilet bowls

Contrary to popular belief, toilets can be different. They differ in the shape of the bowl, the method of flushing, the release into the sewer system and the material of manufacture.

By type of bowl

Toilets are equipped with bowls that have different shapes.

• One of the most popular are funnel models. They have a number of advantages for which they are chosen by many buyers. The main thing is that funnel-shaped products are hygienic, since in this design the funnel is located in the central part of the bowl. Funnel models do not have serious drawbacks, however, when using them, there is a high probability of a surge.

• The second most popular are dish-shaped toilet bowls. They are simple flat platforms. Such models are cleaned only under the action of a water jet. Such models are considered obsolete, but differ in that they exclude splashing. Unfortunately, disc bowls are not very hygienic, which is why they have not been so popular lately.
• And there are also common visor bowls. In such products there is a special protrusion that prevents the formation of a splash, as well as a slope with which the walls of the toilet are cleaned.

By type of flush

Toilets also differ in how they flush. This parameter depends on the direction of water flow. Modern manufacturers produce toilets with direct and circular flush.

• Direct flushing occurs with the help of a water stream on one side of the bowl. Such models are durable and reliable, but they do not guarantee sufficient flushing of the entire surface of the toilet bowl. In addition, these products are quite noisy and create a lot of splashes. But models with such a flush are inexpensive.

• As for the circular flush, in it the water jets are directed at different angles and move in different directions. Thanks to this system, up to 95% of the bowl surface is processed and cleaned. In addition, flush toilets are not noisy.
• Less common are toilets with non-standard drain systems, which provide for the preliminary filling of the bowl with water, and then its quick descent. With this method, the flush fills the entire cavity of the toilet. The disadvantages of such products include excessive water consumption during operation. This figure can exceed 8 liters.

By release into the sewerage system

Modern varieties of toilet bowls also differ in the way they are discharged into the sewer.

• The oblique method was popular in the construction of riser structures in multi-apartment buildings of the 70-80s of the last century.
• Horizontal descent in our time is the most common. Most of the current buildings are designed to use toilets with such a system.
• And also there is a vertical descent. Today, such systems are used in both American continents.

According to the material of manufacture

Floor and wall-mounted toilet bowls are made from different raw materials. Each model has its own characteristics and positive qualities. Let us consider in more detail what materials modern toilet bowls are made of.

Faience

Toilet bowls made of a material such as faience cannot boast of high strength. And they also have a small porosity, so cleaning such products is not an easy task. Currently, such raw materials are not used so often, since as a result, very fragile objects are obtained from it, on which chips, cracks and other mechanical damage easily remain.

Of course, in modern production, special technologies are used, thanks to which faience sanitary ware becomes more reliable, however, faience is much inferior to other materials from which toilet bowls of various modifications are made.

Porcelain

Porcelain toilet bowls are stronger and more durable. They are easy to clean. Such models can often be found in public institutions, as they easily withstand impressive loads and do not fail.

As for the disadvantages of porcelain toilet bowls, they include the high cost of such products. To reduce costs, more affordable ceramics have become widespread.

Steel and cast iron

Metal plumbing is a classic. Metal toilets are most often found in public places. Such products are distinguished by durability, strength and resistance to wear. They are almost impossible to damage or scratch. Steel and cast iron structures easily withstand heavy loads.

The disadvantages of such products include the relatively high cost. Cast iron toilet bowls are considered the least popular, as they have an impressive weight and poor durability of the enamel coating.

stone and glass

Glass and stone toilet bowls (natural or artificial) are classified as products from the "modern" category. Such plumbing items are expensive, but they have an elegant and attractive appearance.

Glass models cannot boast of excellent strength characteristics. However, there are many analogues of glass and stone, from which no less beautiful toilet bowls are made, which are more reliable, but are inexpensive.

Plastic

Thanks to modern technologies on sale you can find toilet bowls made of a material such as reinforced acrylic. Many consumers mistakenly believe that such products are not durable. Actually it is not. Acrylic models have a long service life. In addition, such products are quite practical - they have almost no porous surfaces, so they are easily cleaned of any contaminants.

The disadvantage of such plumbing is its susceptibility to deformation, which can be caused by mechanical stress or too high temperatures.

flush buttons

For modern installations, special buttons are produced. As a rule, they are quite large, since it is through them that you can get to the hidden tank.

If necessary, the button can be easily removed from the special latches with a simple thin screwdriver. After that it unscrews decorative panel The that surrounds the button. Similarly, other similar structures are dismantled.

If you have a pneumatic stop-drain button installed, then the causes of problems with such structures can be:

• failure in the power system;
• malfunction in the shut-off valve opening system.

To repair a pneumatic button, you must have special knowledge. If you have not worked with such elements before, then you should call the wizard.

There are also touch buttons. Such details look interesting, and it is convenient to use them. It is worth considering that the lion's share of damage to the touch buttons occurs due to violations of the integrity of the supply cable. Only an experienced person should repair such mechanisms.

Accommodation options

Regardless of which installation you choose, you need to start installation work with a competent choice of a place for the toilet. In city apartments of a standard layout, one can single out a truly suitable space - a niche in which there are water and sewer risers.

To install the installation, you will need to slightly redo the niche by placing risers in the corners. If they are made of metal, then it is recommended to replace them with plastic ones.

Before proceeding to installation work, it is necessary to apply the correct markup. To do this, you need to know the exact dimensions of the installation.

Dimensions

Currently, toilets and installations of various sizes are sold in stores. However, the standard dimensions of floor models are 520x340 cm. The seat height in such options is 400 mm. There are models of toilets that have an increased length of 7-10 cm (such models are especially popular in America).

Suspended instances have different parameters:

• small models have a length of no more than 54 cm (perfect for compact spaces);
• medium ones are produced with a length of 54 to 60 cm (they are considered optimal products, as convenient as possible to use);
• large models with extended length up to 70 cm (ideal solution for elderly and obese users with disabilities).

What is included?

The set of floor and suspended installations includes the following components:

• frame;
• toilet bowl;
• seat with cover;
• tank;

• exhaust pipe;
• soundproofing;
• flush buttons;
• fasteners.

Mounting

Many owners believe that it is very difficult to install the installation, and they cannot cope with such work on their own. Actually it is not. Consider step by step how to properly mount such a system with your own hands.

Instruments

To install a floor or pendant installation yourself, you will need the following tools:

• laser or bubble level (choose a tool that will be more convenient for you to work with);
• a special construction pencil or marker for marking;

• perforator;
• drill for concrete;
• roulette;
• open-end wrenches (overhead).

Preparatory work

Installations assume the presence of a separate niche in the room, in which the frame will be located. It should be borne in mind that the walls in the room must be quite reliable and strong.

The niche in the room should have the following parameters:

• 1000mm high;
• 600 mm wide;
• 150-200 mm deep.

There are cases when the requirements for depth are quite difficult to fulfill. Then the niche should be made as deep as possible. At the same time, its disadvantage should be sheathed (closed) with drywall and covered with a finishing material.

Installation

After preparing the niche, you can proceed to the installation of the installation.

• First you need to fix the metal frames to the wall. As a rule, in these structures there are initially holes with which the frames are attached to the dowels.
• There should be two attachment points - to the wall and to the floor.
• Further, sewer and water pipes must be brought to the installation site.

• Be sure to check that the frame is level. Nowhere there should be distortions and significant deviations from the level.
• Horizontal adjustment should be made using wall mounts.
• At this stage, the height level of the hanging toilet is also set. First of all given parameter will depend on the growth of the household. Most often, the height of the toilet in this case is 0.4 m. The height of the bowl can be adjusted at your discretion in the future.

Such structures should be mounted with all responsibility. All parts of the box must be fixed as evenly, securely and firmly as possible. Otherwise, the system may fail.

Connecting sewerage and water supply

After fixing the toilet, you need to bring water to the tank. To do this, you can use a flexible or rigid system. Most specialists use a hard approach, because it is more reliable, durable and durable. Of course, it is permissible to install flexible hoses, but if they get damaged or deformed, then they can not be easily reached and quickly removed. During the installation of the liner, the tank valve, like the drain, must be closed.

After connecting all the necessary elements, you need to check the reliability and quality of the fasteners. To do this, open the water in the tap and fill the tank. If you notice a leak, then it must be fixed. In this case, water may remain in the tank.

Next, you need to connect the toilet to the sewer. To do this, the drain hole of the plumbing fixture must be inserted into the outlet of the sewer pipe using a suitable corrugation. There are also models that can be assembled without using it.

After completing all work, you should make sure that there is sufficient tightness installed system. To do this, you need to temporarily screw the bowl to the frame. After that, it will need to be removed again. You can mount this part only at the end of all installation work.

Please note that the sewer pipe wiring must be connected before the installation itself begins. Its diameter should be 100 mm (norm). It must be laid with a special slope.

Finishing

After installing all the components, it is necessary to close the structures with a plasterboard sheet. Functional elements must be sewn up with similar sheets / panels. For the bathroom, you should buy only moisture-resistant drywall, which is more durable and wear-resistant than simple material.

Sheathing can be done in two ways:

• over the entire plane of the overlap;
• only along the plane where the installation is located.

The second way of finishing involves the formation of a small shelf located directly above the bowl. It can be used to place the items needed by the owners. After that, the closed barrier must be finished with tiles or PVC panels - it all depends on how the rest of the partitions in the room are decorated.

As you can see, self-assembly hanging or floor installation is quite possible to do it yourself. It is worth listening to some advice and recommendations from experts to make the design more reliable and of high quality.

• When installing the installation, the tank is always "hidden" in the wall. However, one way or another, you will need access to it. To do this, you need to mount an inspection hatch. It is better to place it just below the installation button.
• The installation location of the button must be planned, while taking into account the layout of the tiles on the walls. It is recommended to mount this part between adjacent tiles or in the central part of one of them.

• The thickness of the structure covering the installation should be no more than 70 cm.
• Leave a distance between the fasteners of plumbing. It should be 180-230 mm.
• To save water, it is recommended to select the appropriate buttons equipped with two types of drain.
• If the floor toilet has leaked, then you need to make sure that the plumbing is properly sealed. All joints and connection with the corrugation should be treated with sealant again.
• If the toilet is unstable, then you should tighten the bolts. However, this should be done more carefully so as not to disrupt the thread.
• Most often used for laying polypropylene pipes. In addition, all metal risers must be replaced with plastic ones.
• Before proceeding with the installation work, it is worth drawing up detailed drawings and a diagram of the future design. This is especially important if you decide to install a complex corner installation.

• If the bathroom is located in the central part of the living area (far from the capital floors), then only a frame structure should be installed in it.
• Before installing the installation, it is desirable to change the niche and remove the risers in the corner.
• Please note that the installation of suspended plumbing should only be started 10-14 days after fixing the frame.
• When adjusting the height of the wall-mounted toilet bowl, it is necessary to rely on the distance from the center of the horizontal sewer exit down to the clean floor. It is also necessary to take into account the slope of the pipes.
• Do not proceed with the installation of the installation until you carefully study the instructions that come with it.

• Before installing the toilet, do not forget to make a "output" of cold water pipes.
• Remember that any problems in the inside of the barrel are quite easy to identify: carefully examine all the nodes. All moving elements should “walk” without problems, the connections should be as tight and reliable as possible, there should be no distortions in the design.
• The frame can only be installed after the screed and waterproofing of the floor have been made.
• IN wooden house it is recommended to mount lower and wider installations. Thus, the load on the wall will be significantly reduced. Otherwise, it is better to attach the structure to the floor.