Many construction and finishing works can be done independently, even without special skills. The article provides detailed information on how to make a drywall wall with your own hands, step-by-step instruction for installation and recommendations for the selection of materials. This guide will help you build a high-quality and durable interior partition or sheathe finished walls with drywall sheets.

Types of plasterboard structures

Due to the unique technical characteristics of drywall, even a novice master can use it in construction and repair. Sheets of various sizes are quite light, durable and easy to process. In addition, after installation and puttying the wall, it turns out perfectly flat surface, on which the paint lies evenly, and the wallpaper is pasted without problems.

Use drywall for interior decoration rooms can be done in two ways:

• build complete barriers with arches and doorways;
• clad walls rooms to improve sound insulation and insulation.

In the first case a frame is constructed from a special metal profile, to which are attached on both sides drywall sheets. Between them is laid layer mineral wool or other heater, electrical wiring. If necessary, you can even hang a door (for this, the opening needs to be strengthened additionally with wooden bars).

for sheathing brick, concrete or wood wall you will also need a profile and sound or thermal insulation material. On the frame, which is attached directly to the walls, after laying the mineral wool sheets of drywall are screwed with self-tapping screws.

This method of interior finishing allows you to quickly and efficiently level the surface, provides heat retention and reduces sound transmission.

Drywall wall: materials and equipment

Having drawn a plan for the future partition and calculating the amount of materials needed for work, you need to choose the right suitable option. Plain drywall- these are two sheets of cardboard filled with gypsum mixture. However, there is a number of additional features, which determine the properties of the material and the convenience of working with it:

• Size. The strength of the finished structure is largely depends on the number of sheets used. A solid canvas, unlike made up of many pieces, is easier to attach and is more durable. Depending on the height of the ceilings in the room, it is selected suitable size sheet. Standard are 120 by 250 or 300 cm.
• Thickness. The choice of this parameter depends on the purpose of the structure. If special needs to be done strong interior partition, it is better to take a thick drywall ( 12.5mm). For wall cladding fit sheets 6 or 9 mm thick.
• Additional characteristics. These include increased soundproofing(due to the addition of special fibers to the gypsum filler) and moisture resistance. The latter quality is especially important if you plan to make the walls of a bathroom or kitchen. Moisture-resistant material is usually green drywall sheets.

Profile and mounting rails designs also differ in size. vertical part frame is made from C-shaped rack metal profile 3 and 4 meters long. Its height is standard (50 mm), and its width varies from 50 to 100 mm. Cross horizontal bars are made from U-shaped guides. Their standard length is 3 meters, width and height can be different: from 50x40 to 100x50 mm. For cladding finished walls, it is better to purchase a lightweight profile, with a smaller thickness of the metal sheet.

The frame of the interior partition can also be made of wood. In this case, vertical racks and horizontal rails are made from a 50x50 or 40x40 mm timber. Last option also suitable for sheathing a finished wall (you can also use a beam of 30 by 40 mm).

Required element drywall wall - inner layer for sound and heat insulation. Today, manufacturers offer a huge number of special materials, from ordinary mineral wool before polyurethane foam boards, with varying degrees of sound absorption and thermal conductivity. That is why before choosing you should decide on your own requirements.

To make a plasterboard wall with your own hands, you will also need a certain set of tools.

• First of all, it is necessary to very accurately mark the places for the future fastening of the profile, and for this you need a regular construction or special laser level.
• You will also need to measure tape measure and meter ruler.
• In addition, you need n coolant for drywall, screwdriver, drill, hammer, hacksaw and metal shears.
• For puttying the finished wall is necessary putty knife.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a drywall wall

When all necessary equipment and materials are prepared, you can proceed directly to the installation of the partition.

frame

• First of all, a frame is made from metal profile or wooden beam.
• Proper marking is a guarantee of a smooth and durable structure. For this you need first draw strictly vertical lines on the walls on which the rack profile will be attached. You can use a special laser level or make a plumb line from painted construction twine, fixing it on top.
• On the ceiling and floor from vertical lines are drawn horizontal.
• Then the required number of racks and cross bars are cut that are laid out on the floor. In this case, the crossbars must have a margin of 10 cm for fastening. If the profile length is not enough, the pieces will be connected with special brackets.
• At the same stage, the cutting drywall sheets.
• Direct installation begins with the installation of the lower guide, and in the area of ​​​​the future doorway she is not needed. The profile is fixed to the floor with self-tapping screws.(in increments of about 40 cm), which are screwed through pre-installed dowels.
• Similarly, the upper rail on the ceiling and racks near the walls are attached.

Important! A special seal must be glued to the outer surface of the profile in contact with the walls, floor and ceiling before installation. This will further strengthen the structure and improve sound insulation.

Rack profile installed strictly vertically using a level and fastened with self-tapping screws.

The optimal distance between the racks is 60 cm, that is, for each plasterboard sheet 120 cm wide, there should be 3 vertical strips.

Drywall refers to materials with which you can create unique designs and completely transform any apartment. It can be both interior partitions and sheathing of existing ones. reinforced concrete structures. This approach to repair will make it possible to re-plan the apartment and hide the shortcomings of existing walls without much difficulty. Understanding how to make a drywall wall is easy, especially if you watch the tutorial video.

The main characteristics of drywall

This material has a number of undeniable advantages compared to other types of wall decoration in residential and non-residential premises. Here are just the most significant of them:

• affordable price (the main plus at the present time);
• ease of installation with your own hands;
• environmental Safety;
• moisture resistance and fire resistance;
• the ability to give the desired shape;
• ease of installation of lighting, noise and sound insulation.

What drywall is better to make a wall? To do this, you can use several options for sheets from the manufacturer Knauf:

• standard sheet (hl) for dry rooms;
• moisture resistant sheet (GKLV), almost universal and suitable for rooms with any humidity;
• fire-resistant sheet (hklo) for rooms with an increased risk of fire;
• a sheet that combines the two previous advantages - fire resistance and moisture resistance (gklvo).

For an ordinary city apartment (except for bathrooms), it is better to use ordinary sheets, with which you can form any figured structures. Below is how to make a wall without outside help, conduct an electrician and complete the finish.

Tool selection

Any construction and repair work is impossible without a carefully selected tool and Supplies. Therefore, before thinking about how to make a high-quality drywall wall, it is worth drawing up a drawing of the future design and an estimate.

The project should be drawn up taking into account all the nuances - the location of the load-bearing walls, lighting and interior doors. In addition, it is necessary to indicate the actual dimensions (work to scale). This approach will allow you to correctly calculate the consumption of materials and avoid unnecessary expenses.

The list of "consumables" will look like this:

• guide profiles for ceiling, floor and wall mounting different sizes(50x40.100x40.75x40 mm);
• rack profiles (50x50, 100x50, 75x50) for installation in load-bearing profiles;
• self-tapping screws for fastening profiles (usually take 8 pieces per square meter of ceiling);
• self-tapping screws for mounting hl (40 pieces per sheet);
• dowels (dimensions 6x40 mm) for fastening the carrier profile (5 units for each);
• tape for sealing;
• drywall;
• putty;
• sickle;
• primer;
• dye.

GCL sheets are selected depending on the size of the structure, but taking into account the margin for cutting. How to choose the right tool to make a drywall wall? All inventory that will be used can be used in the future to create ceilings. Therefore, you should not save and buy only high-quality products. Here is an example list:

• roulette;
• pencil;
• plumb;
• crayon;
• level (long and short);
• screwdriver;
• perforator;
• scissors for metal;
• hammer;
• sandpaper;
• roller, spatula, brushes.

After the drawing is ready and the materials are purchased, you can proceed with the installation.

Installation of the frame, installation of sockets and switches

For any installation work frame structures from gcl should make markup. How to do it to install a drywall wall? First of all, you will need a tape measure and a plumb line. Marking can be applied both with chalk and pencil on all work surfaces - ceiling, floor.

After that, the installation of the carrier profile begins. With the help of dowels, they are attached to all pre-set marks. This procedure must be done with the utmost care, otherwise you can get an unstable, shaky structure. It is better to keep the distance between the dowels about 70 cm, but in some cases more frequent placement will be required. If at this stage questions arise, then you should once again consult with a specialist on how to make a wall from a metal profile.

The next is the turn of installing rack profiles, which must be fixed to the carrier and ceiling. They are cut in height and fixed at a distance of up to 0.6 m using self-tapping screws. Between the rack profiles, you can additionally fix their segments. This solution will improve the stability of the entire structure. If you plan to install fixtures or shelves in the future, it is best to reduce the distance between the profiles.

After completing the assembly of the frame, you should think about three important points, without which the completion of the repair is not possible: electrical wiring, laying noise and sound insulation. The main elements of electrical wiring are sockets, switches and wall lights. How to make connections in a plasterboard wall in compliance with all safety measures?

For laying, only wires in special protective non-combustible boxes should be used. Junction boxes should be mounted up to 20 cm from ceilings. They must have a protective cover and all work on their installation is carried out in accordance with the PUE. After that, a heater is laid, which will provide sufficient sound insulation of the room.

Plasterboard wall cladding and finishing

When the electrics and soundproofing are installed, you can begin the sheathing process. How to make a stable and high-quality wall from drywall?

Rule number 1. Sheets are best placed in a checkerboard pattern. It will look like this: whole sheets below, then their parts and vice versa. Sheathing sequence: one wall, laying communications and sound insulation, the second wall.

Rule number 2. For a quality construction, it is best to make a two-layer sheathing, although they often stop at a single-layer one in order to save material.

Rule number 3. The sheets are mounted using self-tapping screws every 25 cm. Important: the seams and joints of the first and second layers must not match! After that, it remains to make holes for sockets and switches, and you can proceed to finishing.

Now a little about how to make a drywall wall ready for painting. Sequence of work:

• initial primer;
• basic putty;
• gluing the seams with a sickle;
• leveling putty;
• the second layer of primer;
• painting or wallpapering.

The primer is applied to the wall with a roller, then the seams are glued and the surface is puttied. For these purposes, gypsum or polymer putty is suitable. Joints and traces of self-tapping screws should be well processed. The resulting excess can be removed with sandpaper. Next, the surface is primed again and painted and wallpapered.

It is better to choose pastel colors for the walls, the same tone as the ceiling (it can be a little darker). Any color options and wallpapers, both with and without a pattern, are suitable for a white ceiling.

There is a lot of information out there on how to make walls out of drywall sheets. But I wanted to learn more about how to mount curly partitions. What design options are suitable for a particular room in the apartment? After all, with the help of gypsum craton, you can divide the room into zones, visually reduce or increase it. The material allows you to realize the most daring design ideas both on the walls and on the ceiling.

The main task of repair in apartments and houses is to bring the walls back to normal. Just a few decades ago, almost no one heard of perfectly even walls. Aligned, based on the principle of "at least somehow." The situation can be corrected according to all the rules: remove the old plaster and re-plaster the beacons. This is reliable and correct, but at the same time difficult, expensive and time consuming. It is much easier to use dry methods: level the walls with GKL (plasterboard sheets).

The second task, which is most often solved in the process of repair work, is redevelopment. Old partitions are removed, and new ones are mounted in their place. Decorative and interior partitions are also installed using drywall. This article will discuss how to level and install drywall walls with your own hands: photo, video.

To begin with, it is worth considering cases when it becomes necessary to level the surface of existing walls. There are several options for attaching drywall sheets to walls:

1. On a base of wooden blocks.

It is mounted from jumpers and racks, however, it is attached directly to the wall itself. Too large differences are much more difficult to compensate, first you have to look for the most protruding parts on the wall. Then there are two ways: the first is to try to reduce the differences by cutting off the most protruding places, the second is to focus on them, laying additional bars everywhere.

The main disadvantage of fasteners on wooden bars is that when not dry enough (with a humidity level above 20 percent), they can “lead” during drying, therefore, the whole structure will warp. There is also the possibility of destruction of wood by fungi and pests. Despite this, some regions prefer this way, since lumber prices are much lower than profiles.

1. Installing sheets on a galvanized profile frame allows you to get a perfect flat surface for any curvature.

The profiles are mounted on special clamps, from which the frame is assembled, so that the front part of the jumper and the rack lie in the same plane. Since the plasterboards are at a decent distance from the main wall, electrical wiring and communications can be laid between the wall and it. Another advantage of the frame from the profile is the possibility of laying a sound pickup and insulation. The disadvantage of this option is that without a heater it conducts sounds well: blows on the wall sheathing sound similar to a drum.

1. Installation of drywall sheets immediately on the walls.

In other words, installing GKL on glue. Use "liquid nails" or special mixtures. This method is available if the plane of the walls is relatively flat, with slight differences of 2-3 centimeters. Glue is applied to the surface of the walls or sheet (in heaps, if there are differences, and in strips, if the walls are even), then the sheet is mounted in place, set using a level, fixed with props and wedges.

The latest technology - landing drywall on glue, the fastest, however, it also has disadvantages. Not everywhere there is glue under the sheets, so hanging cabinets on such a wall is quite problematic. If you previously planned to fix something to the wall, install a mortgage beam as an additional beacon when setting the level or lay a continuous layer of glue. Then the problem will be solved.

Another disadvantage is small differences, the surface is not perfectly smooth (difference of 2-3 millimeters). Between the "pieces" of glue, the GKL bends a little. However, this method is great for quickly leveling walls.

Attachments to the frame, do-it-yourself plasterboard walls: photo, video

So, when sticking a sheet on a wall, no fasteners are required, we will mainly talk about a metal frame. The rules for attaching to a wooden one are exactly the same, they just use special self-tapping screws for wood.

The purpose of drywall sheets and their dimensions

A few words about how to put GKL on the walls and what sizes they are. The standard dimensions are: height - 2.5 and 3 meters, width is always 1.2 meters. Sometimes there are "non-standard", slightly shorter lengths. Small sheets are much easier to work with, but there are more seams that need to be sealed. GKL thickness:

• 6 mm and 9 mm - designed for curved surfaces.

• 12.5 mm - universal material for ceiling and walls.

It is often said that nine-millimeter sheets are ceiling. But manufacturing companies do not have such recommendations. Any manufacturer positions thin sheets, such as those used to finish uneven surfaces.

Bevels are made along the entire length of the edges of the sheet, which are necessary in order to glue the reinforcing tape and seal it with putty. It is the side on which there is a bevel that is the front. It should be deployed inside the room.

How to join sheets

If it becomes necessary to join drywall sheets in height, try to arrange the joints so that a long line does not form, they are laid with a shift or apart, it is desirable that the offset does not exceed 60 centimeters. Long joints are places where cracks form. By shifting the seam, with almost one hundred percent probability you will get rid of cracks.

If the wall is sheathed with several layers of drywall, then the vertical seams also move. The sheet on top should be installed offset by half the width (60 centimeters).

Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall mounting rules: photo, video

During installation, drywall sheets are pressed against the frame and fastened with special self-tapping screws with flat heads and screwdrivers. If the frame is metal, use TN25 self-tapping screws (25x3.5 mm), in stores they are called “for drywall”. Color - white or black (more often breaks), length - 25 millimeters. For a wooden frame, flat-head self-tapping screws of similar size are selected.

When installing fasteners, it is very important to tighten the self-tapping screw to the desired depth: the cap should be drowned in the sheet, while not tearing the cardboard, it must also be twisted perpendicular to the plane of the sheet, so you reduce the likelihood of damaging the cardboard layer responsible for rigidity.

When assembling the frame on a solid wall, the gaps between the posts should not exceed 60 centimeters. Then it turns out that each drywall sheet is attached to three verticals: one in the middle of the profile and two along its edges. In this case, the sheet border falls on the middle of the profile.

Having indented from the edge of 10-12 millimeters, screws are screwed in. They can be displaced or placed above one another. Mounting step - 250-300 millimeters. Mounted on the middle profile and around the perimeter.

Another important point is the height of the installed sheet, it should be 10-12 millimeters shorter than the height from the floor to the ceiling. Such a gap must be left in case of shrinkage, so that the partition or wall has the opportunity to compensate for the change in height without cracks (this is especially true for panel and wooden houses). Perhaps these are all the main points of working with drywall.

Partition for a plasterboard wall with your own hands: photo, video

Installing the partition is a little more difficult, so we will describe the process step by step.

1. Markup.

First you need to mark the place for the partition. The easiest way to do this is with a laser level (laser plane builder). This line is applied to the ceiling, floor and walls. If there is no laser level, you will have to use a plumb line and building level(High Quality). Then, using the level, transfer it to the wall. If both lines are vertical on the walls, the connecting line should be located strictly above the line on the floor, this is checked using a plumb line. It is necessary to achieve the most perfect match, since the quality of the work depends on it.

1. Frame assembly.

Guide profiles are mounted along the marked line on the ceiling and floor. They are marked PN or UW - bearing profile. Most often they are fastened with dowels - 6 * 60 or 6 * 40 millimeters, the distance between the dowels is not more than 40 centimeters.

PN profile has standard height walls (depth) - 40 millimeters, but can be of different widths 100 mm, 75 mm or 50 mm. The width of the carrier profile will determine how thick the soundproofing material or insulation can be laid there, as well as the thickness of the partition.

Racks are installed in the guide profiles. They are marked PS or CW - rack profile. It differs from the guide by the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves increase the bearing capacity, make it more rigid. The width of the rack profile depends on the width of the carrier, they must be identical. It is between them that a heater is installed.

Racks to rails are attached in several ways. The first is used mainly by professional builders. They work as a cutter - a tool that bends and breaks metal to the sides, fastens two parts. During self-repair work with gypsum boards, amateurs are attached to “fleas” (“seeds”, “bugs”) - these are small self-tapping screws with a screw at the bottom (TEX 9.5). They drill the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (the holes do not need to be drilled). On each side of the rack is fixed with two self-tapping screws.

An important point, if you put a partition on the ground floor or in a high-rise building, then instead of the ceiling rail and the junction of the rack, apply a special film or some other material that will prevent the appearance of creaking. During walking, there is an oscillation that is transmitted to the profiles, as a result, the profiles rub, and a creak occurs. In the second option, you need to make the racks one centimeter shorter. It is more correct, since the shrinkage of the house is provided, and there are no annoying sounds.

The next step is to install the mesh (no more than 60 centimeters). The distance is determined by the width of the drywall sheet, which is usually 120 centimeters. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that the sheet is attached to three racks, so there should be 60 centimeters between the verticals. If, nevertheless, the gap is more than 60 cm, but less than the width of the sheet, a vertical profile is also placed between them, or in this area the sheet will bend and stagger. One more important point lies in the fact that the first rack must be attached to the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe extreme profile, therefore the distance should be slightly less than 57.5 centimeters.

It is advisable to strengthen the profile to which you will attach windows and doors. The easiest way to do this is with a wooden block of the appropriate size. It is fixed with screws inside the profile. To prevent the beam from twisting, you need to use only dry wood. After the racks are exposed and fixed, the structures are stiffened with the help of jumpers.

Jumpers are pieces of rack profiles that are installed horizontally. As a rule, jumpers are located at the height of the joining of two sheets, they must be fixed. Otherwise, in increments of 60 to 80 centimeters. If the wall is small, put 80 cm each, if it is small, 60 cm is enough. It is worth noting that the crossbars above the doors are a prerequisite for plasterboard sheathing. It is also desirable to strengthen them with a wooden block.

1. Laying communications, plasterboard walls with your own hands: photo, video.

After installing all the crossbars, you can begin to lay electrical wiring and communications. It is desirable to install all electrical wires in a corrugated sleeve. If the partition is mounted on wooden frame or in wooden house, it must be made of metal. In houses / apartments made of non-combustible materials, in plasterboard walls on a galvanized frame, it is allowed to use polypropylene corrugated hoses made of non-combustible material (marked "NG").

1. Sheathing with heat / sound insulation and drywall.

After laying communications, they begin to mount drywall sheets. They are installed exactly as when sheathing. First, on one side, then on the other, a sound insulator or insulation is installed between the bars (profiles) of the frame. Next, the wall is sewn up with plasterboard on the other side. For partitions and walls use conventional insulation.

• Styrofoam. One of the varieties of foam. Differs in cells of the closed form thanks to what possesses the best performance: fungi do not develop, do not like rodents, dampens sound well and has excellent thermal insulation properties, more dense. It can be installed in a spacer and is easily cut with a hacksaw. Does not support combustion. Minus - high price.

• Styrofoam. To obtain excellent characteristics in terms of heat and sound insulation, a board layer of 6-7 centimeters (density from 35 kg / m3). It conducts sound poorly, retains heat well, is easy to install and has a low cost. The disadvantages are that when burned, it releases dangerous substances and rodents love it.

• Mineral wool. This stone wool(preferably basalt), slag or glass wool. Basalt is considered the most environmentally friendly, because it does not contain formaldehyde. It is quite easy to work with them, they hold well by surprise, they are easy to cut, they are less afraid of moisture, they do not need respiratory and skin protection during installation. Their disadvantage is the high cost. The most affordable option of these heaters is slag wool, glass wool has an average price, and, of course, stone is the most expensive.

In principle, you can use any other heaters, but the ones listed above are considered the most effective.

How to cut drywall?

When sheathing walls with plasterboard sheets, you will have to cut the sheets, since it is not always possible to install them entirely. This will require a clerical knife, a long, even object (rule, level, beam, board, ruler, etc.) and a wooden block. When cutting curved lines, you may need a jigsaw, but there will be a lot of dust. Sequencing:

• On the front side draw a line with a pencil along which you want to cut the sheet.

• We bend the broken piece and cut the remaining cardboard.

Everything is really simple, the main thing is to mark it correctly, there will be no further problems.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard walls: photo, video tutorials

Unfortunately, not all features of this process can be described, some are better to see with your own eyes. Therefore, we have selected videos that relate to the assembly of the features of working with drywall. Most often, the videos presented relate to the assembly of the frame from profiles. Since this is really one of the most time-consuming work, and how well the frame is formed depends on how even the partition and wall will be.

How to strengthen the racks in the partition?

This is a non-standard way of assembling the frame, but the racks are really tough. This method must be used if a full-fledged partition between rooms is erected from the GKL, in which case the reinforcement will definitely not be superfluous. The downside is that it will take much more time, and the price of such a frame is higher.

Which profile is better: grooved or smooth?

The market has various models profiles, including those with rough sidewalls and walls. With the same thickness of the metal, it is stiffer. How good it is in practice, look at the video.

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How to install drywall on the wall yourself - 4 stages of rough wall finishing

To date, drywall is one of the most popular types of materials intended for interior construction and interior decoration of residential and commercial premises. However, not everyone knows how to properly mount drywall on walls, so in this article I want to pay more attention technical description this simple process.

Classification of drywall sheets

Gypsum board is a composite sheet finishing material, which consists of two outer layers of thick cardboard, and an inner intermediate layer of mineral gypsum aggregate.

The composite construction of the sheet provides this material with high rigidity and sufficient strength, and the outer layer of cardboard forms a uniform matte surface, which can be considered an ideal basis for applying a finishing coating ( acrylic paint, decorative plaster, wallpapers, etc.).

Depending on the raw materials and mineral components used, all drywall sheets can be conditionally divided into several types:

1. The usual drywall sheet for general construction works has the nomenclature name GKL. It is designed for interior decoration of ceilings and walls, as well as for the construction of light interior partitions in residential and office premises with normal room temperature and relative humidity of no more than 70%. The outer cardboard coating of such sheets is gray, and the factory lettering is dark blue;
2. Moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboard with the nomenclature name GKLV is intended for finishing walls and ceilings indoors with normal temperatures and high humidity air . To increase moisture resistance, the outer coating of such sheets is made of special impregnated cardboard, and antifungal additives with silicon particles are introduced into the gypsum aggregate. For visual distinction, outside surface GKLV has a light green color, and the factory marking is applied in dark blue;

1. Fire-resistant drywall sheets have the nomenclature designation GKLO, and are characterized by increased resistance to short-term exposure to direct open flame or high temperature. Such qualities are achieved by introducing non-combustible reinforcing fibers into the composition of the gypsum core, and by impregnating the outer cardboard with a flame retardant composition. The outer coating of fire-resistant sheets has the usual gray color, and the factory lettering is applied in red;
2. Moisture-proof fire-resistant drywall is designated as GKLVO, and combines all at the same time specifications and operational qualities of GKLO and GKLV, respectively. Such material has a rather narrow scope, since its price is significantly higher than the cost of other types of drywall. In order not to be confused with other sheets, its surface is painted light green, and the letter factory marking is applied in red.

Despite the fact that GKLV is considered moisture resistant, it cannot withstand direct contact with water for a long time, so it cannot be installed outdoors, or used to finish wet rooms with direct water on the walls and ceiling (shower room, washing room or steam room in the bath ).
The same warning applies to GKLO: despite its fire resistance, I strongly do not recommend using this material in conditions of prolonged exposure to high temperatures or direct contact with an open flame.

The working process

Stage 1: selection and calculation of materials

The calculation of the required number of drywall sheets should be carried out based on the net area of ​​\u200b\u200ball the walls in the room. To calculate the net area of ​​each individual wall, you must first multiply its length by its height. Then, in the same way, calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwindow and doorways on this wall (if any). After that, the resulting area of ​​door and window openings must be subtracted from the total area of ​​​​the wall, and the net area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wall should be obtained.

The table shows the technical characteristics of drywall sheets.

When calculating the amount of materials, it should be borne in mind that the width of any drywall sheet is always 1200 mm, and its standard length can be 2000 mm, 2500 mm, 2700 mm or 3000 mm. It should also be taken into account that in the process of work there are always trimmings, and some part of the material goes into marriage, therefore, when buying drywall and all components for its installation, you need to lay a small margin (5-8%).

Based on the classification of drywall sheets discussed in the previous section, when choosing a specific type of drywall, I advise you to adhere to the following recommendations:

1. For wall decoration in living and sleeping areas of a private house or apartment (bedroom, nursery, living room, corridor), you can use any of the above types of drywall. In the same time, I recommend using ordinary GCR for these purposes, since it has a lower cost;

1. When performing repairs in rooms with a high level of air humidity (toilet, bathroom, unheated attic or veranda), I advise you not to save money and buy moisture-resistant GKLV drywall. In addition to the fact that it does not collapse under the influence of moisture, its surface is less susceptible to the formation and development of mold;
2. For interior decoration of the walls of a home heating station, an autonomous boiler room, an electrical switchboard, and other rooms with a possible short-term increase in temperature or the appearance of an open flame, it is best to use fire-resistant GKLO. This material can also be used for outdoor decoration of stoves and fireplaces., provided that a non-combustible mineral wool insulation is laid between them;
3. GKLVO is more intended for industrial use, but it can also be used in a private house. For example, it is well suited for cladding smoke channel in an unheated attic, or for wall cladding around the furnace door sauna stove in a damp cold dressing room;
4. To install drywall on a supporting frame, you will need to purchase a galvanized metallic profile two types, straight remote brackets, docking "crabs" and self-tapping screws for metal with a hat in a sweat;

1. The horizontal profile "UD" or "PNP" with a section of 28x27 mm is mounted one at the bottom, at the level of the finished floor, and the second at the top, under the very ceiling. The total length of the whips of such a profile should be equal to the double perimeter of the room;
2. Rack profile "CD" "PP" with a section of 27x60 mm is installed vertically from floor to ceiling over the entire wall area, with a step of 600 mm. To find out the total number of such a profile in meters for one wall, you need to divide its length by 0.4, and multiply by the height of the room;
3. When calculating the number of remote brackets, it should be assumed that each rack profile must be mounted on 4-5 brackets;
4. It is difficult to name the number of self-tapping screws offhand, so for a start you can purchase 300-500 pieces, and if necessary, buy more;
5. If you plan to sew walls using frameless technology, then for this you will need to buy a special construction adhesive for drywall. Its consumption per 1 m² of wall area can be viewed on the factory packaging.

The standard thickness of drywall sheets can be 6mm, 9.5mm or 12.5mm. The thinnest sheets lend themselves well to bending in an arc, therefore they are used for the manufacture of curly interior details. Medium sheets 9.5 mm thick have no big weight, so they are used when sewing ceilings. For wall decoration, I recommend using sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm, since a lot of weight is not critical for them, and they have the greatest strength.

Stage. 2: preparing tools for work

To perform installation work, you will need the usual set of household tools that any home master should have on the farm. Below I will list them, but you will need to adjust it yourself, depending on which installation method is more suitable for you.

1. To install a metal supporting frame, you will need an electric puncher with a set of drills from 6 to 10 mm, a hacksaw or scissors for metal, a grinder with cutting discs for metal and a cordless screwdriver;

1. If you opted for a wooden frame, then for its manufacture you will need the same tools, only instead of a grinder and a hacksaw, you need to use an electric cut-off saw or hand saw on wood;
2. When attaching drywall to the supporting frame, you will need to twist a large number of self-tapping screws. To completely mechanize this process, I recommend using a special screwdriver nozzle, which automatically feeds the screws into the screw head;
3. For frameless installation of drywall on the wall, the adhesive solution will have to be prepared by hand, directly at the installation site. To do this, you will need a metal or plastic container with a volume of 10-12 liters, as well as a construction mixer or a nozzle on a drill for preparing dry building mixtures;

1. From hand tools you will need a sharp construction knife with replaceable blades, a medium hammer, curly and flat screwdrivers, as well as a small hand planer for trimming sheet edges.
2. From the measuring tools you will need a large square, a tape measure at least 5 m long, a laser or liquid building level, a construction cord, a rope plumb line and a thin marker or pencil;
3. To work at height, it is convenient to use an ordinary household stepladder. Its height should be such that a person can freely reach the ceiling with his half-bent arm..

If you prefer frameless installation of drywall to the wall with mounting foam, then I advise you to buy it in large metal cylinders, since it will be much cheaper in such a package. To work with such cylinders, you will need a special gun that allows you to accurately dose the supply and consumption of mounting foam.

Stage 3: production and installation of the supporting frame

Before starting work, you need to completely free the room from the furniture, and remove the old coating from the wall. If you are planning to lay concealed wiring, heating pipes or other communications behind drywall, then this must be done in advance, before mounting the supporting frame on the wall.

Next, I will talk about how to independently install the GKL on the wall with the installation of a metal frame. For those who find it more convenient to mount a wooden frame, I must say that it is made according to the same principle as a metal one, only instead of profiles, wooden bars with a section of at least 50x50 mm are used.

1. After preparing the surface of the walls, first of all, you need to mount the upper and lower horizontal guide profiles around the entire perimeter of the room;

1. The lower U-shaped profile "UD" must be laid on the floor, and fixed with self-tapping screws parallel to the wall, along a stretched building cord;
2. The upper U-shaped profile must be fixed in the same way around the entire perimeter to the ceiling. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the plumb line lowered from the longitudinal center line of the upper profile passes exactly through the longitudinal center line of the lower profile. This will allow in the future to install the plasterboard wall strictly vertically;
3. If the main walls in the room are not very curved, and the lower and upper horizontal profiles are fixed almost close to the wall, then the vertical rack profiles can also be attached directly to the walls;

1. If the walls in the room are curved, and the horizontal profiles are fixed at a large distance from the wall, then for fastening the vertical rack profiles, you will need to use U-shaped remote brackets;
2. To do this, starting from one of the corners, on the walls around the entire perimeter of the room, from floor to ceiling, you need to draw vertical straight lines with a step of exactly 600 mm between them;
3. In each corner of the room, and on each drawn line, 4-5 brackets must be fixed so that the distance from the bottom bracket to the floor, and the distance from the top bracket to the ceiling is 500 mm. The distance between two adjacent brackets should be about 800-1000 mm;
4. Cut the rack profile into the required number of identical segments, the length of which should be equal to the height of the room from the level of the finished floor to the ceiling;

1. Install each segment vertically between the legs of the U-shaped holders, bring the lower and upper ends inside the lower and upper horizontal profile, and fix it to its side walls with self-tapping screws;
2. Next, it must be leveled strictly vertically, and fixed to the side legs of each bracket with two self-tapping screws. Cut the protruding legs with a grinder or metal shears, flush with the front plane of the rack profile;
3. In the same way, you need to mount rack profiles around the perimeter of each door and window opening;
4. Having thus installed all the vertical racks, you need to tie them together with transverse horizontal jumpers from the same profile;

For mounting jumpers, it is convenient to use special “crab” connectors that allow you to join two identical profiles at right angles in the same plane; When installing horizontal jumpers, it should be assumed that the distance between their axes should be within 600-800 mm;

Stage 4: fixing drywall sheets

The technology of mounting drywall on walls is quite simple, however, given that the sheets are large in size and quite heavy, installation work It is more convenient to perform together with a partner. When buying material, it is better to choose such sheet sizes so that it can be installed vertically from floor to ceiling without transverse joints.

1. You need to start installing drywall on the walls from one of the corners of the room. From my experience, I can say that at first it is better to sew up those walls on which the window and front door are located;

1. each sheet must be cut in height to size in place so that it freely, but without gaps, enters the space between the base of the floor and the ceiling;
2. The first sheet can be rested with the bottom side on the floor, and installed in the very corner. At the same time, it is important to control the level so that it is installed strictly vertically in two planes, and its outer side edge runs exactly along the center line of the vertical profile;
3. After making sure that it is in its place, one person should hold it with his hands from displacement, and his partner should fix the drywall to the supporting frame with self-tapping screws in the sweat with a step of 160-210 mm between them;
4. First you need to wrap the screws into a vertical profile around the entire perimeter of the sheet, and then in several places in the middle, into horizontal transverse jumpers;

1. When tightening the self-tapping screws, it is necessary to set the force limiter on the screwdriver so that the cap does not destroy the drywall, and is recessed below the surface of the plate by no more than 1 mm;
2. The next sheet must be installed on the floor in the same way, and pressed with its side edge to the end of the first sheet. After that, make sure that it is installed strictly vertically, it must also be fixed with self-tapping screws;
3. When you reach a door or window opening, one person should put a whole sheet on the place where it should be installed, and his partner at the back of the sheet should draw a cutout for this opening;
4. Next, from this sheet, you need to cut a window opening along the drawn line, and fix it to the wall in exactly the same way. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that cleaning of windows and door slopes performed last, after sewing all the walls;

1. After the drywall is mounted, you need to putty all the fixing screws and joints between the sheets. So that in the future the joints do not disperse from vibration and temperature changes, in the process of puttying they must be reinforced with serpentine glass mesh;
2. After hardening and drying of the starting layer, the surface must be sanded with a medium-grained sandpaper(P80-P100), and if necessary apply another finishing layer putties;
3. Finally, the surface should be sanded again with a finer sandpaper (P80-P100), then dusted off, and coated with one coat of interior penetrating primer.

In order to increase the heat and sound insulation of the room, in the space between the main wall and the drywall sheets, I recommend laying a mineral wool-based roll insulation. For the same purposes, before mounting drywall on the wall, a vibration-proof foam rubber tape must be glued to the front plane of the supporting frame along the entire length.

Frameless installation of drywall sheets

The GKL installation technology described above helps to remove visible building defects from the eyes, and allows you to level even the most crooked walls, but it has one significant drawback. The fact is that the metal profile of the supporting frame itself has a certain thickness, and in some cases, it has to be installed at a considerable distance from the main wall. In the end, after plasterboarding the walls, the room slightly decreases in volume. If this is not so critical for a room with a large area, then in small room such a difference can be very noticeable.

In order to make the most of the usable space, below will be offered a step-by-step instruction in which I will describe three simple ways of frameless installation of drywall for fine wall finishing in small rooms.

1. The easiest way is to glue the sheet to the wall with a special drywall adhesive, which is sold under the brand name "Perlfix". It is produced in the form of a dry construction mixture, and is prepared directly at the place of work. It should be borne in mind that the installation of GKL on glue is allowed with a deviation from the vertical or wall irregularities from 5 to 20 mm.

• First you need to cut all the sheets of drywall in right size, try on each of them in its place, then number and set aside;
• Treat the cleaned wall and the back plane of each drywall sheet with a special water-based penetrating primer;

• After the primer has dried, apply glue to the back in one of two ways. If the irregularities on the wall are from 5 to 10 mm, it is necessary to apply continuous strips of glue around the perimeter and in the middle, and then smooth and remove its remains with a notched trowel;
• With a depth of unevenness on the wall up to 20 mm, the adhesive must be applied with large round cakes with a diameter of 100-150 mm, along the perimeter and in the middle of the sheet, at a distance of 200-300 mm between them.
• After applying the adhesive layer, each sheet must be pressed against the wall, leveled, and fixed in a fixed position until the adhesive begins to set.

1. If in some places the curvature of the walls reaches 50 mm, for gluing sheets it is necessary to use linings in the form of strips of drywall scraps 150-180 mm wide.

• The strips must be fixed horizontally along the entire length of the wall at a distance of 500-600 mm between them, using the same glue or long self-tapping screws;
• In those places where there are deep dips and depressions on the wall, plasterboard linings must be placed under each strip, and thus align them in a vertical and horizontal plane;
• As in the first case, drywall must be cut to size and processed reverse side and strip penetrating primer;
• Lubricate each strip thickly with adhesive, level it with a notched trowel, then install a drywall sheet in its place, pressing it evenly over the entire area;
• For reliable fixation, several self-tapping screws can be screwed into each strip, directly through the front surface of the sheet.

1. For gluing drywall wooden walls, you can use the usual mounting foam in metal containers. After hardening, it has some elasticity, which reduces the likelihood of cracking or deformation of the sheets in the process of shrinkage or swelling of wood.

• The surface of wood in a confined space is prone to mold, therefore, before installation, the entire wall area and the back side of the sheets must be impregnated twice with an antiseptic penetrating primer;
• Fix each sheet of drywall to the wall at a small offset (5-10 mm) by screwing it in several places with self-tapping screws through spacers or wide washers;
• Drill evenly around the perimeter and over the entire area of ​​the sheet through holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm at a distance of 300-400 mm between them;

• Insert a plastic tube from the gun into each hole in turn, and blow out an equal amount of mounting foam;
• In order to evenly dose the blowing of mounting foam into all holes, I advise you to count each pull of the trigger of the mounting gun in seconds;
• The remnants of mounting foam protruding from the hole do not need to try to catch and push back. After hardening, it is easy to cut it with a knife flush with the front plane of the drywall and sand it with a fine emery cloth.

For gluing drywall, I recommend choosing a mounting foam with a low coefficient of expansion. Otherwise, during the hardening process, it can significantly increase in volume, and form local bumps and irregularities on the plasterboard wall.

Conclusion

Despite all its advantages, the described methods of frameless installation of drywall have three common shortcomings. Firstly, adhesive fastening of sheets can only be used if the walls in the room are relatively even and do not have obvious construction defects, and the deviation from the vertical and height differences are no more than 50 mm.

Secondly, this installation method does not allow heat and sound insulation materials to be laid between drywall and the main wall. And thirdly, such a wall covering cannot be dismantled without destroying the drywall.

A more detailed visual instruction for installing drywall on walls can be seen in the video presented in this article, and if after watching you have questions, I suggest discussing them together in the comment form.

Sometimes, to bring the walls into proper form, raw plaster is useless. The condition of the surface can be so deplorable that other materials will be needed for repairs. Or you need perfect evenness of vertical structures for subsequent fine finishing.

This can only be achieved by lining the walls with drywall (gypsum plasterboard) according to the installed metal frame.

High demand for this construction material caused by many pronounced benefits that clearly emerge as a result of its application.

In this regard, it is worth noting that the possibilities of drywall are not limited to straightening walls. Often it is used for redevelopment of premises, internal zoning.

Walls and partitions made of gypsum board during the installation process differ from other structures in an undeniable advantage. They are easily mounted independently without the involvement of professional teams.

Their device, as well as leveling the walls with drywall, does not require the purchase of expensive equipment. The technology is quite simple and subject to certain nuances associated with the processing of drywall sheets, the work can be done quickly and efficiently.

Drywall Features

Interest in drywall is caused not only by its use as dry plaster, leveling walls or as a material for installation internal walls. It mainly attracts with its capabilities, thanks to which, when working with it, you can perform any configuration of wall structures.

Most often, it is GKL that is used in the construction of beautiful arches, original figured partitions and other structures that delimit space.

The ease with which the material lends itself to processing allows you to arrange any wall design and change the layout according to a pre-designed project of any type, from simple to the most complex.

To decide to change something in a house or apartment, you need an appropriate reason or a visual example of what you would like to see in the end. As a rule, visual images of various designs made of plasterboard and presented in advertising catalogs become motivators for such actions.

Seeing a photo of drywall walls, many are eager to install something similar at home. All the more attractive is the fact that such a thing (wall, partition) can be built independently.

Installation of plasterboard walls

Before proceeding with the construction of the wall, you need to thoroughly prepare. In this case, we are talking not only about the purchase of materials and tools.

The inner wall is the main element dividing the space into certain zones. Therefore, it must be properly planned. All requirements must be taken into account. Decide on the need for insulation or ignore it. Decide which material is more suitable for a particular room, ordinary plasterboard or moisture resistant.

In addition, you have to take care of the design of the product. A drawing made in a horizontal plane, with applied parameters and an unfolded appearance in several projections (central and lateral).

The main components in the construction of walls from plasterboard

The base of wall structures is usually a metal frame made of galvanized profiles. They are distributed by size. Some types of profiles are installed as guides, others as elements of vertical racks. They are also designated according to their purpose.

For example, PS-profile is a rack, and PN-profile is a guide. The choice of section depends, first of all, on the purpose of the structure. If you want to divide a large room into two different uses (nursery and bedroom), then you need a wide frame for the device inside the insulation boards.

For sheathing, of course, drywall sheets are required. In order for the wall to be strong and have an increased level of sound insulation, it is better to carry out the sheathing in two layers on both sides of the installed frame.

Based on this, the calculation of the material is done by calculating the area of ​​the wall, minus the opening, and multiplying the resulting number by four, by the total number of layers. Small holes, such as a niche in the wall or holes for piping, are not taken into account in the calculations.

It must be remembered that the frame racks are installed in increments of 0.6 meters. This is in line with the regulations.

The parameters of the GKL sheet are 1.2x2.5 m. The sheets are mounted in such a way that the separating seams run along the center line of the wide shelf, and a whole rack is located in the middle of the sheet.

Self-tapping screws are used as fasteners. Their length should exceed the thickness of the side layer in two sheets. In order for the self-tapping screws to hold firmly in the body of the structure and have a strong grip on the metal frame, they are screwed in with a screwdriver or drill.

Finishing work

When the wall is mounted and all technological methods are taken into account, proceed to finishing work. First of all, the seams are processed. For this, a primer, putty and sickle (painting tape) are used.

The seams are primed, tape is applied and leveled with putty. The result should be a solid flat surface.

If painting is supposed, putty the entire surface to avoid gaps.

Wall decoration is considered the final stage, but, nevertheless, very important. The final appearance, which as a result will attract the main attention. Therefore, you should carefully consider the related work before applying the finish coat.

Especially if it's painting or wallpapering. In this case, you need to look so that there are no remnants of putty anywhere, cracks and scratches in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe seams. The surface is polished with a special mesh, and then proceed to the finish. The GKL wall can be considered complete.

Photo of drywall walls