According to the overwhelming majority of lovers of bathing traditions, the Russian steam room, like the Finnish sauna, should be heated with firewood. For this purpose, a furnace is installed in the steam room, and the combustion products are discharged outside. The question is how to properly mount such a chimney in the bath, which will provide good traction and last a long time, and most importantly, safely. This article will allow you to get acquainted with the existing types of chimney pipes and how to install them.
Types of chimneys
Currently, homeowners are installing 3 types of chimneys for a bath:
- pipe made of stainless steel or ordinary ferrous metal with thick walls;
- double-walled pipe with a layer of fireproof insulation - a sandwich chimney;
- traditional brick chimney.
The normal pipe is the simplest option but it is being used less and less. People prefer safety over cheapness, and therefore they are increasingly inclined towards sandwiches. Yes, and black streaks of condensate, spoiling the whole appearance of the shiny surface of stainless steel, few people like it. Although, if you make some effort and mount the pipe as expected, such troubles can be avoided. Below we will look at how to do it right.
For reference. Ordinary metal pipes on steel bath stoves are usually put by the owners, who like to do everything with their own hands and save as much as possible on materials.
The double-walled sandwich channel design greatly simplifies installation work and makes the operation of the bath much safer in terms of possible ignition and fire. Since the stove is in any case inside the building, on its way the chimney meets various building structures - a wall, a ceiling, a roofing. And far from always they consist of non-combustible materials, which means that an ordinary hot gas flue pipe poses a high fire hazard.
That is why a chimney made of sandwich pipes is good because the temperature on its surface is much lower than the flash threshold of most building and finishing materials. Nevertheless, in accordance with the fire safety rules, a double-walled and brick flue is also indented to combustible structures. By the way, the first 2 types of channels are mounted together with steel sauna stoves, and the third, respectively, with brick ones.
Note. If the furnace itself is brick, then the pipe for the combustion products is made the same, in other cases metal gas ducts are installed.
According to the method of laying, the installation of the chimney in the bath with your own hands is done outside or inside the building. When located outdoors, a horizontal or inclined section extending from the furnace penetrates outer wall, and only then joins the vertical section. Internal layout implies the passage of a vertical chimney pipe through the ceiling and roof structures. These nodes represent the greatest fire hazard, the consequences of improper installation are shown in the photo:
In the photo, when passing through the ceiling, the distance from the pipe to combustible materials was clearly not maintained, which is why the latter began to smolder. The error in the lower photo is obvious - an unacceptably short vertical section, which in this case should rise above the roof ridge.
Chimney installation rules
The places where the pipe passes through the ceiling and other building structures should be considered taking into account the fact that they are lined with wood from the inside, that is, combustible material. At the same time, it does not matter what material the wall or ceiling itself is built from, it is enough that there is a combustible lining. In general, the postulates of laying chimney channels sound like this:
- before installing metal or masonry brick oven you need to choose a place well so that the future chimney of the bath does not fall on the supporting structures of the roof. It makes no sense then to make unnecessary turns of the pipe, and it is impossible to turn a brick channel. The total number of pipe turns should not exceed 3;
- the horizontal section from the stove to the tie-in into the vertical channel should not exceed 1 m in length. The exception is the flue inclined at an angle of 45 °, sometimes used instead of the horizontal one. But even here you should not get carried away, make this segment as short as possible;
- single wall metal chimney must be separated from unprotected combustible floor materials at a distance of 0.5 m. If combustible surfaces are covered with a non-combustible screen, then the gap can be reduced to 38 cm. All requirements fire regulations assets are detailed in the figure below;
- the same figure shows how to correctly install the chimney in height so that its cut does not fall into the leeward zone. Then the force of natural traction will decrease significantly;
- the vertical gas duct must be equipped with a system for cleaning and draining condensate.
A modern regular brick chimney has an insert made of stainless steel or ceramic elements inside. This is necessary in order to avoid the destruction of the walls from the effects of condensate, which, due to the uneven operation of the heat source, freezes in the pores of the brick, crumbling it into pieces.
Starting from the attic floor, it is strongly recommended to protect a single-wall pipe with a heat-insulating layer of fireproof insulation, the best option is basalt fiber. Outside, the insulation is wrapped in a galvanized steel casing. Then condensate will not appear outside the pipe, and the attic space will be protected from fire. When installing a chimney through a wall, the same indents are observed as for passing through the ceiling.
First, about brick structures, which are a continuation of the laying of the furnace. The passage knot, called cutting, is performed by expanding the masonry to the standard dimensions, as shown in the diagram above. It turns out that when crossing the ceiling, it is necessary to withstand a wall thickness of one and a half bricks (380 mm), and roofing - 1 brick (250 mm).
Steel pipes for exhaust gases are usually assembled from sections inserted one into the other. Moreover, it is necessary to mount the chimney in such a way that the condensate inside the gas duct can flow down unhindered. That is, the upper section is inserted into the lower one, this is called the "condensate" assembly. As for modular sandwiches, the inner tube of the inserted upper section must enter the lower one, and the outer one should wrap around the casing of the lower one from the outside. In this way, precipitation is removed, calmly flowing to the ground.
Important. No “smoke” assembly, that is, inserting sections one into the other, on the contrary, is allowed.
If you decide to make a chimney for a bath through the ceiling, then you should prepare an opening of the required size in the ceiling. Then make a box with a bottom and a hole for the pipe from roofing steel, fix it in the opening and then install the smoke channel. The space between it and the sides of the box is filled with expanded clay, vermiculite or tightly stuffed with basalt wool. Detailed details of the node can be taken from the diagram:
Advice. Instead of a complex passage assembly, you can use a samovar-type water tank that is built into the ceiling and performs 2 functions at once. Similar successful solutions are offered by many furnace manufacturers, the details are shown in the drawing:
The vertical external chimney is attached to the wall on brackets in such a way that there is at least 1 bracket per section. If the sections are long, then the brackets are placed at intervals of 2 m. When making turns, you should avoid installing elbows at an angle of 90 °, try to use bends at 45 or 30 °. The upper section of the chimney can be covered from precipitation with an ordinary umbrella or some kind of deflector can be installed. Better is the one that turns after the wind, preventing it from blowing inside the pipe.
How to clean the chimney in the bath?
Brick or stainless chimneys serving sauna stoves should be cleaned as needed. Practice shows that with year-round use of the bath, such a need occurs at least 2 times a year. For this purpose, there are special brushes tied to a rope with a load so that they can be lowered from top to bottom.
It is necessary to drain the condensate through the tap at the bottom of the pipe, climb onto the roof and lower the ruff inside. Before this, you will need to remove the umbrella or deflector. It is very convenient when a chimney with a hole (revision) is installed in the bath, through which access from below is opened. Then cleaning can be done from both sides, and then remove the soot that has fallen through the hatch.
In addition to the mechanical method, there is also a chemical cleaning of the chimney. On sale there is a tool called a “chimney sweep log”, which is placed in the firebox of the stove and burned there in accordance with the instructions. The tool is quite universal, suitable for any solid fuel heaters and has been repeatedly tested in practice.
Conclusion
Installing a sauna stove is only half the battle. Installation of such an important part as a chimney will take no less time, if not more. It is important to ensure compliance with 2 main requirements: compliance with fire regulations and the presence of good stable traction.
Not so long ago, baths were built with heating "in a black way". This means that the smoke from the stove, which heated the entire room, was removed through a small window above the entrance. The slightest malfunction, or just a forgotten window, and smoke immediately filled the entire room. In modern heating systems, a chimney for a bath is provided, which is made of brick, metal or ceramic. The products of combustion are effectively discharged outside the building, without even passing directly into the heated room. Also, when heating “on white” in the furnace, heat lasts longer, fuel materials are used more economically, and ventilation of the room improves.
The chimney is an integral part heating system that works by burning fuel Source kamin-expert.ru
Design features
Chimneys for a sauna stove are constantly being improved, a variety of materials are used in their manufacture, new technologies are emerging. Knowing the features of different modifications allows you to properly mount them, provide the required fire safety measures, ensure regular cleaning and replacement of component parts.
According to the configuration, chimneys are internal or external. Internal, through the wall are brought out, by means of adapters. The design allows you to save useful space in the room, eliminates the possibility of burns or ignition of internal equipment. But there is also a minus - low efficiency - a large proportion of the heat simply "leaves" into the atmosphere.
External chimneys are led directly from the stove to the outside through the ceiling and roof. The necessary shape and direction is given through a variety of fittings, and safety is ensured by the correct selection of insulation in accordance with the norms of SNiP 41-01-2003.
Single-circuit chimneys made of steel
For a number of reasons (probability of condensation, thermal expansion), such devices are practically not used on their own, but are installed in the form of sleeves for brick pipes. The material is designed for temperatures up to 1100 degrees, it has high heat retention parameters. Chimneys are made of stainless, alloy painted or galvanized steel. Some parts are made of brass.
The benefits include:
Ease of installation.
Affordable price.
Replaceable parts of the smoke extraction unit.
Slight pollution that does not require frequent cleaning of the structure.
Possibility of operation in various climatic regions.
The disadvantages include the appearance of soot on the walls, the formation of corrosive processes. The optimal material for pipes is considered to be steel, which contains at least 17% chromium with a wall thickness of up to 1.5 mm.
Double-walled stainless steel chimneys
The correct arrangement of the chimney in the bath for wood stove involves the implementation of installation strictly according to specific instructions. Otherwise, the wall insulation contained inside the pipe will absorb moisture, which is fraught with negative consequences. Compared to the classic steel counterpart, the sandwich is more reliable and durable.
When buying, it is necessary to carefully measure the diameter of the working pipe so that it fits the outlet element of the furnace. An important factor is not only the steel grade, but also the type of insulation used. The best option - stone wool. Desirable density - 120 kg/cu.m. with an insulating layer thickness of at least 40 mm. Pay attention to assembly. For indoor models, it is carried out “by condensate”, and for outdoor models, taking into account the smoke output.
On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".
It is forbidden to lay a horizontal part of the chimney with a length of more than one meter. The total height of the discharge channel should be more than five meters, which will ensure stable and good traction.
It is forbidden to work with a tool that does not have rubberized insulating surfaces. The location scheme of the structure is worked out in advance. When installing chimneys for a stove in a bath, several important rules are observed:
It is not allowed to contact the pipe with furniture, wallpaper, electrical wiring and other communications.
In the place between the ceiling and the crate, an empty space is left (more than 30 cm for uninsulated pipes and at least 15 cm if there is insulation).
Contact of the chimney and wood with the outlet channel is not allowed.
If the pipe is laid through an unheated attic space, thermal insulation is used to prevent condensation.
Do not place the chimney near combustible and flammable materials.
When planning the discharge system, the number of components is taken into account, depending on the height of the device.
Installation nuances
After preparing the tool, unpacking the elements of the chimney with their calculation, the specialists proceed to the installation of the product.
All work is divided into several stages:
Perform markup with determination of the distance from the bottom of the furnace to the center of the discharge channel. This parameter is marked on the wall at the location of the firebox.
display stove width and outlet pipe axis in relation to the resulting size.
Designated contours, according to which the wall or ceiling will be disassembled, taking into account fire standards (a square is drawn using a tape measure, building level and pencil.
Disassemble designated part of the wall partition. Holes are made in the wooden crate in the corners and in the center. Sawing through electric jigsaw according to the existing markup.
isolation cut with a special knife, removed from the wall.
wooden part protect non-combustible plates, from 30 mm thick. Cut out a round hole for the pipe outlet. A suitable flange is used as a template.
Security element fastened self-tapping screws, under which four sockets are pre-drilled. Bushings are placed between the wall and the sheet for inserting screws.
Placed on the floor screen protection, preventing sparks, heat and coals from entering.
outdoor work
From the outside of the bath, the fragment to be removed is marked. Insulation is mounted at the point of passage of the pipe through the wall, taking into account the required amount of material.
The walls are measured in thickness, strips of basalt wool with foil are cut. They are installed along the prepared contour with a shiny surface inside. When laying mineral wool, a minimum of gaps between parts of the insulation is observed. The process continues until there is a hole similar to the diameter of the outlet pipe.
Video description
What are the errors when installing stoves, see the video:
Assembly
The chimney structure is assembled in parts. First, bracket fasteners, a tee and a horizontal element laid from the stove are connected. Parts are mounted in series, corrugated clamps are directed downwards. Connection points are treated with a sealant that is resistant to increased thermal stress.
Remove the drip plug, install on the bottom of the tee, fasten with a clamp, do not use sealant. The further assembly procedure consists of the following steps:
The straight part of the chimney is fixed to the tee; it will be laid through the wall ceiling.
A square flange is installed on a horizontal tube, the structure is placed in a hole on the wall.
By means of the building level, the verticality and degree of tightening of the fasteners are controlled, self-tapping screws are tightened in the sockets of the triangle brackets.
The flange is fixed with self-tapping screws.
They build up the structure upwards, connecting the component parts to each other with clamps and sealant.
All nuts are securely tightened as the chimney is constantly exposed to the wind.
The fold is mounted on the roof overhang using a pair of knees with a bend angle of 135 degrees.
Collect three elements, install them on the straight part, fix the upper knee with a clamp.
After mounting the straight part, a deflector and a cone are placed.
The next step is done indoors.
Mount a single-level pipe with a valve (gate). The outlet pipe of the furnace is connected to it.
Installation of an internal chimney
The internal chimney is similar to the external counterpart. All connections are made with clamps and sealant. Mounting differences include:
The insulation sheet is laid in its place immediately, a furnace is placed on it. A pipe with one wall or an economizer is connected to the nozzle
A gate, a water-heating tank, a smoke damper, a heater mesh are connected to the direct element.
The parts are mounted with the corrugated side down so that the inner element overlaps the wall of the lower compartment. This will protect the insulation from the ingress of drops of condensate.
important stage chimney installation is the correct arrangement of passages through the ceiling and roof.
Main stages of work
The sequence of installation of the internal chimney:
The scheme of the future chimney on the ceiling.
The passage is being arranged in accordance with the standards and requirements of SNiP.
A square hole is made.
A special dividing box is put on the straight part.
About 20 millimeters of free space is left between the vertical walls and the sawn nest.
The chimney is built up with an additional vertical segment.
The box is applied to the ceiling sheathing and fixed.
In the attic around the dividing part, basalt cardboard is covered, and in the inner part - expanded clay or mineral wool.
Commissioning
The chimney must be inspected, special attention should be paid to the quality and density of the joints. Inside, the structure is cleaned with a dry cloth. All unnecessary items from the pipe and firebox are removed. Trial ignition is carried out using a small amount of fuel. At this stage, the effectiveness of traction, the presence of smoke at the joints, and its retraction into the room are determined.
After testing, after a few hours, the furnace is fully heated. Do not push used combustible materials "to the eyeballs" into the furnace, this can lead to failure of the chimney and a fire. All combustible elements and partitions near the pipes must be insulated, the distance between them and the exhaust structure is at least half a meter. Visual inspection and preventive cleaning is carried out once every six months.
Video description
About the installation of a fire "fluff" in the following video:
On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service installation of stoves and fireplaces. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".
Conclusion
A properly selected and installed chimney is a guarantee of high-quality operation of the stove in your bath. Installation is strongly recommended by professionals who will do everything quickly, and most importantly, with high quality, and will give a written guarantee for their work.
The chimney is the soul of the bath. The chimney can be safely called the "soul and heart of the bath" and this will not be an exaggeration. The quality of your future rest in the bath will largely depend on how competently and efficiently you equip it.
A well and smoothly functioning chimney is, firstly, an excellent park, and secondly, a guarantee of fire safety. The correct flue for 99 percent excludes a possibility of a smoke and pollution of the room.
Features of the construction of the chimney
Chimney types
Currently, several types of chimneys are in operation, which, in fact, are divided into two categories: root and mounted. Mounted chimneys are called chimneys, which are mounted directly on the furnace, indigenous - on the side of it. The choice of the chimney pipe will largely depend on what type of stove you are going to use when heating the bath. There is an option in which one chimney serves several stoves, but in this case the entire system must be equipped in such a way that the connecting links from the stoves to the chimney are cut at different heights at intervals of at least one meter from each other. In this case, the diameter of the chimney must correspond to the total power of all furnaces. The diameter is calculated in such a way that the smoke emitted by the operating furnace is fully ensured.
The height of the chimney mainly depends on the height of the building itself. We recommend that you immediately make sure that the gap between the roof ridge and the chimney pipe horizontally is at least one and a half meters (or more). If this distance is less, care must be taken to ensure that the level of the chimney is 50 centimeters higher than the level of the ridge. If the chimney is further from the ridge, they must be aligned vertically.
The internal chimney has a number of undeniable advantages and therefore is the most popular and sought-after option for arranging a Russian bath.
Advantages of an internal chimney
- Convenience during work (work is carried out in an already rebuilt building).
- Simplicity and convenience in service.
- Sufficiently powerful traction, which is provided, in many respects, due to the verticality of the pipe.
Ideally, the chimney pipe should be vertically oriented. However, it often happens that for some reason (or a number of reasons) it is impossible to make the structure completely vertical. In this case, it is recommended to create a chimney project in such a way that the length of each of its non-vertical (diagonal) sections does not exceed one meter. Without this, it will be very difficult for you to get normal draft and prevent soot from depositing on the surfaces of the chimney - after all, hot air will rise vertically. Ideally, the use of horizontal pipe sections should be completely abandoned.
What and how to make a chimney?
Most often, Russian baths are equipped with stoves-heaters. The main options for a chimney for such a furnace are metal pipes. During the operation of such pipes, sooner or later, we are faced with their significant drawback - condensate that settles on the surfaces during cooling and flows down. As a result, the rate of kindling of the furnace decreases, in addition, enough bad smell. To avoid the above situation, place the pipe in a fireproof case of thermal insulation or overlay it with bricks. The second option can be considered more preferable due to the simplicity of the work process itself, for which, by the way, you can use an inexpensive brick.
There should be no extra holes in the walls of the chimney, any hole is a guaranteed penetration of cold air from outside, cooling the smoke. It is not recommended to use large diameter pipes - this can also lead to cooling of the smoke and a decrease in its speed, the consequence of which is the formation of condensate. The thickness of the brick walls of the chimney must be at least 120 millimeters when inside the bath and at least 38 centimeters if it is located in the outer wall of the building.
It is desirable to make the inner surface of the chimney as smooth as possible. The more scratches and roughness, the worse the draft will be and the more soot can accumulate inside the chimney. Therefore, it is initially worth whitewashing the pipe and grouting it for the timely identification and elimination of possible defects.
Another popular option for arranging a chimney in a bath is a sandwich pipe. To use it, you do not need brickwork or a cover (case) made of thermal insulation, which will greatly facilitate the installation of the structure.
Fire safety
Fire safety is paramount! Arranging a chimney in the bath, do not forget about fire safety measures. It is important that the pipe has as much as possible fewer seats docking, and in the areas of passage through the roof and ceiling they should not be categorically. Branch pipes should be installed in the passages between the ceilings, and a layer of non-combustible materials should be created between the chimney pipe and the ceiling (make a pipe cut). The thickness of such cutting should exceed the thickness of the ceiling. A similar layer (from thermal insulation) must also be created at the place where the pipe passes through the roof. The chimney must be located at a distance of not less than 250 millimeters from unprotected rafters, battens and in general from combustible roofing materials. Any non-combustible layer must have a thickness of at least 120 millimeters.
From above, the chimney must be equipped by special means protection, in particular, a protective cap (mushroom) and a spark arrestor, as well as a roof cut, which provides sealing when the pipe passes through the roof.
water tank
An important stage in the process of installing a chimney is installation of a heating water tank. There is various options installation. For example, a tank can be attached to the wall of a pipe, in another embodiment, the pipe will pass directly through it (in this embodiment, water heating will be more efficient). Main criterion when choosing a tank - the size of your stove (direct proportionality). The best option is a stainless steel tank. When choosing a tank, it is necessary to take into account the size and diameter of the chimney pipes to ensure a tight connection between the components (good draft and optimal water temperature).
Let the bath bring you health, pleasure and good mood!
Video
With this material they read the same:
It is difficult to imagine a bath without a stove. Accordingly, a chimney is needed. The construction of this structure is a crucial stage, but following certain rules and calculating the parameters, it can be built independently.
Chimney in the bath
In the event of a violation of traction, smoke from combustible fuel through the gaps will penetrate into the bath building. This may lead to poisoning carbon monoxide. In order for the operation of the bath to be safe, a high-quality chimney is required. First of all, you need to deal with its design, decide on the type and dimensions. Only in this case it will be possible to make a chimney that will be safe and reliable.
Chimneys for bath buildings can be made:
- from brick;
- from metal.
According to the design and place of installation, they distinguish:
To choose the right design, you should learn about the advantages and disadvantages of each of them.
Video: how to choose a chimney for a bath building
Chimney calculation
- If a wood-burning stove or a fireplace with an open firebox is used, then the calculation must be done as follows: you will need to make a ratio of 1:10 in relation to the firebox. This applies to cylinder shaped nozzles. The calculation of the cross section of the chimney in the form of a square must be determined in proportion to the dimensions of the firebox 1: 1.5. The diameter of the pipe must exceed the diameter of the blower.
- If the heat transfer is less than 300 kcal / h, then the cross section should be 140x140 mm or more.
Take into account the amount of oxygen required for the fuel to burn. To prevent condensation from forming on the walls of the structure, the temperature of the gases must be more than 120 ° C. Condensation inside the pipe can cause soot to be trapped, resulting in reduced draft and frequent cleaning required.
Table: permissible chimney characteristics
The diameter of the smoke extraction device is calculated as follows: D = √ (4 x Vr) / (3.14 x 2), where D is the diameter of the smoke exhaust device, Vr is the air volume. The height of the device is calculated based on the geometry of the section. The calculation can be done using the graph:
It is necessary to calculate the height of the chimney, taking into account the dependence of the cross section of the structure on its height
For the calculation, it is required to determine the area of \u200b\u200bthe furnace (F) and the smoke exhaust device (f). The first value should be divided by the last and determine the ratio in%. For example, if the ratio of the cross section of the chimney structure to the cross section of the furnace is 10%, the minimum allowable height a round chimney will be 7 m, square - 9 m, rectangular - 11 m. The difference in height can be compensated for by the vortex resistance that is created by the chimney.
It is worth considering the fact that the values \u200b\u200bare suitable only for straight pipes, and this is not easy to achieve in a bath building. In most cases, smoke pipes have different turns, which will have a bad effect on traction. For the correct calculation of a particular device with a variety of irregularities, you will need to use the services of specialists. In extreme cases, you need to slightly increase the resulting value. This will be enough for a stove that runs on solid fuel.
The advantages of using asbestos pipes include:
- Low cost. This is due to the fact that asbestos products are easy to manufacture.
- Little weight.
- No seams.
- Moisture resistance.
It is important to take into account the disadvantages, which are much more than advantages:
- Legislation prohibits the use of pipes made of this material in stoves that run on solid fuels. In the process of fuel combustion, the temperature of the exhaust gases will be at around 700–800°C. An asbestos chimney can withstand no more than 300 ° C.
- Asbestos is a porous material, so it will absorb condensation. Cracks can cause fires.
- The inner base will not be smooth, so soot quite often accumulates on the walls, which after a certain period may begin to burn. The temperature from an open fire will quickly rise, as a result of which the asbestos chimney will explode.
- Soot can also seal the recess of the chimney after a certain period. As a result, draft will disappear, and combustion products will enter the room.
- The appearance of stains on the walls and a bad smell in the steam room. Condensate will soak into the pipe and transfer to materials that touch it. This can result in the chimney and the building needing to be repaired.
- The asbestos pipe has a small diameter, so even initially the traction will be poor.
- In the design, it will not be possible to prepare a recess for revision, so it is difficult to clean it from soot.
To use this material for the production of a chimney, the following conditions must be observed:
- It is necessary to install the structure only in areas that are located at a great distance from the furnace.
- Warming is a must. The pipe can be mounted in a brick chimney or it is possible to build a sandwich using an external casing. This will significantly reduce the appearance of condensate and increase fire safety.
If you plan to build a chimney from an asbestos pipe, then the following recommendations should be considered:
- Installation of the structure must be carried out on a reinforced concrete slab or stone masonry.
- In the process of passing through the overlap, you will need to make fluff. To do this, it is necessary to fix the sides of the required height in the extreme parts of the recess and fill the gaps between the ceiling material and the pipe with materials that do not ignite. The use of expanded clay, sand or cinder concrete is allowed.
- In the process of crossing the roof, you will need to make an otter that can protect the attic from rain penetration. For reliable fastening a sleeve should be formed from a mixture of sand and cement.
- Chimney sections must be fastened with heat-resistant sealant and clamps.
It is important to pay special attention to the quality of the joints.
Ceramic pipes
Modern ceramic nozzles can be used to remove gases with different temperatures, as well as for boilers with liquid and solid fuels.
Ceramic chimney suitable for boilers with liquid and solid fuels
Differences of a ceramic chimney from other types:
- Versatility.
- Simple processing.
- Possibility of heat storage.
- High strength.
- Long period of service.
- Gas tightness, in connection with which the possibility of gas penetration into the room is excluded.
- Fire resistance.
- Waterproof.
- Resistant to temperature extremes.
The design consists of the following elements:
Visually, the chimney structure can be divided into the following zones:
- a container for the accumulation of condensate;
- pipe base;
- tee for cleaning;
- tee for connecting the stove.
The siphon of the tank for the accumulation of condensate must have a height of more than 15 cm, the minimum level of the barrier liquid is 10 cm. When installing straight parts, it must be taken into account that the joints of several sections cannot be located at the points where the floor slabs pass. In these places, the structure should be additionally insulated with non-combustible material.
The total height of the ceramic device must be more than 5 m. The higher the height, the stronger the thrust. When installing, it is important to consider the following requirements:
- the chimney must be at a height of 1.2 m above the roof without bending;
- at least 50 cm above the ridge or barrier;
- at a distance of at least 5 m from the grate to the mouth of the pipe;
- above the skate;
- at an angle of 10° to the horizon.
The dimensions of the product must be greater than the diameter of the stove pipe. Installation is quite simple: you need to start from the base and move to the top. The pipe of the upper part must go inside the lower part. If you plan to install the structure in a wooden structure, then it is important to take into account the likelihood of settlement. If this factor is not taken into account, the chimney will be damaged. It is not necessary to fix the product to the roof.
Self-made chimney for a stainless steel bath
Not all steel can be used for the production of smoke extraction systems. The structure can only be built from steel of the following grades:
- Heat-resistant metal with corrosion protection grades 409 and 439. Suitable in case of installing a solid fuel stove. The composition of the material includes titanium, which will not allow carbon to burn out of the metal. This brand cannot be used to remove smoke from a stove that runs on gas or liquid fuel.
- Stainless steel that is resistant to corrosion. Brand - 430. The material can be used for the construction of external elements of the chimney. It is not suitable as an internal pipe, as it will quickly collapse under the influence of elevated temperatures.
- Type 304 and 316 stainless steel. Acid resistant. It is allowed to use the material in the manufacture of smoke exhaust systems that are mounted on devices that operate using liquid fuel.
- A refractory metal that is resistant to acids and high temperatures. Brand - 321 and 316T. It can be used for all types of stoves, as the material is not afraid of temperatures up to 1000 °.
Only austenitic grade materials may be used.
Steel chimneys can be divided into 2 groups:
There are certain rules for installing the structure that allow you to make the chimney high-quality and durable:
- You need to install such a system starting from the bottom.
- The assembly of all sections of the chimney into one structure must be carried out sequentially. The next section must be inserted into the previous one.
- The pipe must be joined with a heat-resistant sealant and fixed with clamps.
- Each part should be fixed with a separate bracket.
- If the branch pipe will pass close to devices that can catch fire, then a layer of basalt insulation must be installed on the outside of the pipe.
- If the roof is not curved, then the minimum height of the chimney above it is 50 cm.
- In places where the structure passes through the roof, there should be no joints on it. The minimum allowable distance from the joint to the ceiling is 70 cm.
To protect the roof, a spark arrester must be installed on the pipe head.
A spark arrester is necessary in order to eliminate the possibility of a roof fire.
Self-installation of a chimney for a bath
The installation method depends on what material is planned to be used for the production of the chimney. There are some rules that you should definitely consider when making a chimney yourself:
- The device must not be connected to other nozzles.
- The smoke extraction structure must not have horizontal sections longer than 1 m.
- During the heating season, the chimney of the bath should be cleaned at least 2 times.
- The structure must extend at least 0.5 m beyond the roof.
Installation of a steel sandwich chimney through the ceiling
First of all, you should consider a sandwich chimney. Manufacturers supply products along with a set of additional parts, which include:
- knee;
- tees;
- clamps;
- plugs;
- ceiling-through nodes;
- heads;
- protective screens.
The diagram will allow you to understand the technology of installing a stainless steel chimney
Step-by-step guide for assembling a steel chimney:
- First of all, with the help of a plumb line, it is necessary to mark the places where the pipe exits through the roof and ceiling structure. Next, you need to prepare a recess according to the size of the pipe. It is worth remembering that between the sandwich pipe and the details of the wooden ceiling, you need to leave a distance of about 10 cm along the perimeter of the recess.
The dimensions of the hole should be approximately 10 cm larger than the dimensions of the chimney pipe
- Thermal insulation can be done with mineral wool. You will need to close the passage of the pipe through the ceiling. There is no need to worry about the cotton wool becoming damp, as the elevated temperature dries it out quickly.
- It will be necessary to take all dimensions and determine the place of installation of the unloading unit. It is recommended to do it in the attic. It will take on the load of the pipe that comes out of the ceiling. In addition, the unloading unit is able to eliminate lateral vibrations.
The unloading unit takes on the load of the pipe coming out of the ceiling
- If the distance between the floor base and the attic is large, then an unloading unit should be installed. If the distance is less than 1.5 m, then auxiliary supports are not required. The unloading unit can be built from steel corners and fasteners. The corners must be fixed to the rafters. Fixation should be as reliable as possible.
- On the outlet pipe of the stove, you will need to mount the initial pipe. It should fit into a large pipe with an interference fit; during the purchase process, you need to choose the appropriate dimensions.
On the outlet pipe of the furnace, you need to install the initial sandwich pipe
- The narrow pipe must enter the socket at the outlet of the furnace, while it must not cover it. Pipe sections must be inserted into each other. The transition and bending points should be additionally secured with clamps.
Places of passages and bends of pipes must be fixed with clamps
- In the place where the pipe passes through the ceiling structure, it is necessary to put a cut to cover the outlet recess. This will also make the chimney more stable. A larger diameter pipe must be welded to the cutting, which will be used as an adapter. This will increase the abutment area and eliminate deformation in the event of strong loads in the lateral part. The adapter will allow the chimney to move freely up and down. To avoid heat loss due to loose parts, it is recommended to use mineral wool. It must be placed under the cutting part and carefully pulled to the ceiling with nails or self-tapping screws.
To close the outlet in the ceiling, you need to install a cut
- In the crate and roofing, you need to prepare holes. Next, you should seal the exit point of the smoke exhaust device. This requires an adapter. The joints must be sealed with sealant. It is recommended to put another sheet on the coating and fix it with self-tapping screws with rubber washers. The remaining gaps are treated with sealant. The outlet of the pipe should be 55 cm above the roof level.
The vertical position must be controlled by the building level
- A fungus should be mounted at the top of the chimney.
Video: installation of a chimney from sandwich pipes through the ceiling
Installing a ceramic chimney through the ceiling
The sequence of actions will be as follows:
- First of all, you need to prepare a place where the device will be placed. If there are irregularities on it, they must be eliminated. It is allowed to install chimneys on a separate base near the heating device or on its upper surface. For masonry, a special adhesive mixture is used, since the mortar will not be able to provide the necessary strength.
For masonry, you need to use a special glue, since the mortar will not be able to provide sufficient strength
- Metal rods 1 m long and 5–10 mm in diameter should be prepared. With their help, you will need to additionally fix the structure. This will keep the integrity of the chimney. Next, you need to make recesses in the ceiling and roof. There is no need to make a margin for dimensions, since the device will be able to protect wooden details from elevated temperatures.
- The next step is to install 2 halves of ceramics. The lock should be lubricated with an adhesive mixture.
The first block must be filled with adhesive mixture
- Next, you need to check the location of the halves. If necessary, they can be trimmed. Iron bars should be inserted into the side recesses. Gaps between reinforcement and ceramics are filled with glue. It is not necessary to completely fill the recess. The glue must be positioned so that it connects the rods and ceramics in 3-4 places.
- A heat-insulating material should be wound around the ceramic pipe, slightly pulled with an iron wire or a clamp. It is not necessary to tighten strongly, since the heat insulator should not be compressed. As a material for heat insulation, pressed mineral wool is mainly used.
- The pipe will need to be installed in the recess of the ceramics, and then check its location. To speed up the process, you can wrap all the pipes with insulation at once. The number of nozzles corresponds to the height of the chimney.
You can check the location of the pipe using the building level
- Next ceramic block mounted with glue. Another pipe is inserted into the socket of the first. Excess glue from the inner tube should be wiped off immediately, there should be no streaks.
The lock of ceramic parts must be greased with glue and remove excess
- Actions are performed by analogy, in the process it is important to monitor the location of the chimney.
- To fix the chimney in the attic, it is necessary to cut the slats according to the dimensions of the recess, install them around the perimeter of the chimney and firmly nail it to the attic.
- The roof must be sealed at the exit point of the chimney. This is done with the help of additional elements, which are sold ready-made.
In the place where the chimney exits through the roof, you will need to install a passage unit
Video: ceramic chimney installation instructions
Installation of a chimney through the wall
After the device for the chimney is assembled, you will need to melt the stove. If the smoke quickly exits the firebox, it means that the work has been done correctly.
How to draw a chimney from a bath through the ground
To run a pipe through the ground, you need to insulate it. A regular layer of bitumen will not work, as the pipe will be under high temperature. The sequence of actions will be as follows:
- It will be necessary to prepare several lined pipes, the diameter of the first should be 5–10 cm less than the diameter of the second. One pipe must be placed in another. It is recommended to entrust the assembly process to tinsmiths.
- Pipes can be assembled from several parts. The joints are fastened with clamps. There must be 3 spacers between each clamp, otherwise, when falling asleep, the chimney structure may lead.
- The joints should be treated with a heat-resistant sealant.
- The outer pipe, which is located in the ground, will need to be covered with bitumen.
The instruction may seem simple, but it is recommended to entrust this work to experienced professionals.
How to insulate a chimney pipe in a bath
To perform pipe insulation work, you can use the following materials:
- thermal insulation;
- folgoizol.
Thermal insulation began to be used recently. It is made of foamed polyethylene, which is hidden between several sheets of foil. Material thickness - from 2 to 10 mm. The thicker the thermal insulation, the higher the temperature the material can withstand.
Table: dependence of the maximum possible temperature on the thickness of the thermal insulation
The top layer of foil can protect the pipe from severe overheating. The thermal insulation is easy to install. You only need to wrap it around the chimney, fixing it with tape or iron wire.
Another popular material is foilizol. It consists of layers of foil and heat insulator. The foil will be used as a reflective material, which will save up to 90% of heat in the bath.
The best material for chimney insulation is foil insulation
This material is environmentally friendly, as thick food foil is used in the manufacturing process. Stand material ultraviolet rays and elevated temperature. Acceptable temperatures - from -65°С to +175°С. It is often used for thermal lines and pipelines.
This material often covers not only the pipe, but also the walls with the ceiling of the steam room. The building, which is finished inside with foil insulation, has the design of a thermos. The heat will not come out, and therefore the bath building will warm up quickly and will not cool for a long time.
Quite often, safe sandwich pipes are used in the bath. The design is similar to a pie. The inner part is made of stainless steel, then insulation material is laid, and the outer part is made of galvanized steel. The design can perform two functions at once: eliminating the accumulation of soot inside and reducing heat outside.
If red brick was used in the manufacturing process of the furnace, then this insulation method will not work. You will need to do the following:
- Pipe exit to ceiling structure and through the roof it is necessary to isolate from elevated temperature with the help of an asbestos sheet. To do this, you need to cut off a sheet whose dimensions exceed the dimensions of the pipe by about 10–15 cm on all sides. The structure is screwed on with self-tapping screws.
- At the inside of the pipe, the walls should be upholstered with a sheet of metal. Ordinary iron sheets should not be used, as they can be corroded. The dimensions of the sheet should be the same as in the case of the asbestos sheet.
Around the pipe in the places where it passes through the ceiling, it is recommended to build an iron box and pour expanded clay inside. The layer thickness is 5–10 cm. It will be able to contain heat and protect wooden parts from ignition.
Based on fire safety requirements, there should not be a wooden frame around the chimney within a radius of 25 cm. A more difficult task is the arrangement of the chimney passage between floors. It is important to maintain the tightness of the steam room and exclude heating of wood parts of the floor structure and internal cladding elements by a red-hot pipe.
For this purpose, you need to use the partition. The design is necessary for arranging a fireproof chimney passage through the ceiling and wall, as well as for protecting trim parts from ignition. Cutting can be made from an iron box. The horizontal dimension is determined taking into account the diameter of the sandwich pipe, however, the minimum value is 40 cm. The depth must exceed the thickness of the ceiling by 7 cm.
Important to consider following tips for cutting installation:
- The joints of the box and the ceiling must be laid with an asbestos sheet or basalt.
- The lower part of the groove is fixed with self-tapping screws, however, they must be thermally insulated. To do this, at the place of installation of the fastener, prepare a recess with a value equal to 2 diameters of the self-tapping screw. In this case, the fasteners will not be in contact with the bottom of the box.
- Next, you need to put a washer and a piece of asbestos on the self-tapping screw.
- The fastener is screwed into the recess.
After installation, the cutting should be filled with material for thermal insulation. This is done in the following order:
- A layer of clay 20 mm is applied to the bottom.
- The remaining space is filled with expanded clay.
Video: arranging a fireproof chimney passage through a ceiling or wall
It is not difficult to build a chimney for a bath, but it is important to follow the instructions for installing and insulating pipes. Even the smallest mistake can start a fire. wooden elements bath building.
Hello, Dear friends. A bathhouse is not only a place where the family rests body and soul, but also, due to its purpose, a potentially fire hazardous building. this is just part of the heating system. In today's article, we will discuss how a bath pipe will help to avoid problems during the operation of the stove.
You can install it near the stove and on the pipe passing through the attic of the bath. The arrangement is similar, but in the attic it is easier to fill the tank with water. Since the heat exchanger is not located in the steam room, it is possible to supply water from the pump with a tap. Water will be automatically supplied to the tank.
Chimney materials
Before you figure out how to install a pipe in a bath, it is important to find out which option would be preferable. The choice of materials for the chimney depends on the financial possibilities, specifications, fire safety requirements, as well as the aesthetic taste of the owners of the premises.
Brick
This material has long been used in construction, today it is as popular as before. Its advantages are:
- a wide choice (it is easy to choose an option that suits the design);
- attractive appearance;
- excellent heat transfer qualities;
- resistance to high temperatures;
- relatively low price, although there are cheaper options.
This material has a number of disadvantages: the risk of condensate accumulation, fragility, and the need to build a foundation.
Steel
When choosing a chimney for a bath, many prefer metal structures. They come in black iron or stainless steel. Such an option is the best solution due to the following advantages:
- aesthetic appearance;
- long service life;
- ease of installation;
- different cost for any wallet;
- light weight (no need to build a foundation);
- variety of designs.
They are also often lined with brick chimneys.
Ceramics
Ceramic pipes tolerate high temperatures well, are not exposed to alkalis, acids, they are not afraid of corrosion.
Soot and dust do not accumulate on the smooth outer and inner contour. However, this is a very expensive material, so it is not widely used in our country.
Glass
This is quite exotic and unusual, but the most effective option for a sauna stove. Glass is not afraid of corrosion, not only is it easy to clean, but it also does not collect soot and dirt on the walls. He is not afraid of moisture, so the glass chimney is the safest and most reliable. Its installation is complex and requires professionalism. Another disadvantage is the extremely high cost of the system.
Sandwich pipe for sauna stove
The design consists of two pipes of different diameters, and the gap between them is filled with insulation that can withstand high temperatures. If you plan to install the structure on your own, then as thermal insulation material it is better to choose expanded clay, asbestos or mineral (basalt) wool.
If you purchase ready-made sandwich pipes for a bath, then the work can be done much faster and easier.
What is better to use for a bath?
All of the above pipe options are suitable for a bath room. They don't highlight harmful substances do not break down at high temperatures. What is the best chimney? Glass and ceramic. But most often they use an ordinary steel pipe.
It is also worth mentioning that asbestos-cement or concrete pipes cannot be used, as they do not meet existing standards, as well as safety requirements.
Proper design of external and internal chimney
How to make a smoke exhaust system.
Modern modules made of stainless steel or ceramics allow you to carry out the installation process yourself. The main thing is to comply with the necessary requirements:
- good traction in the system (if the design is leaky and incorrect, but a reverse hood will be created, which is dangerous to life and health);
- ensuring the safe operation of the chimney; during installation, all the nuances must be taken into account;
- aesthetic appearance (although this is not a matter of paramount importance, but the external and interior view Houses);
- service life
In a proper air duct, soot and condensate must not accumulate on the outer and inner surfaces. A good chimney has a low thermal conductivity. There are also requirements for the shape and cross section of the system. It should not be less than that of a boiler or furnace.
The round channel is considered the best. It is easy to clean, the air comes out freely. An apron is mounted on the roof, which serves as protection against rainfall.
System design
Before presenting step by step guide do-it-yourself chimney equipment in the bath, we note the main points of the device:
- correct choice of pipe diameter and structure shape;
- optimal placement (closer to the inner wall of the bath, so good thermal insulation will be ensured);
- chimney height (at least 4.5 meters);
- the pipe should rise above the roof by at least 50 cm;
- the junction with the roof is carefully isolated;
- a valve (gate) must be installed in the system, which will allow you to adjust the draft;
- the wall next to the chimney is protected with non-combustible materials;
- the outer part of the structure is whitened or painted, then if the tightness is violated in the places where smoke passes, the paint will become darker.
How to run a chimney through the ceiling
The arrangement of the passage of the chimney through the ceiling is a crucial moment. Fires often occur due to improper installation. According to safety regulations, direct contact of the hot pipe with flammable materials must be avoided. For this, a special unit is constructed in the form of a box made of non-combustible galvanized or stainless metal.
All work must be carried out in accordance with the regulations.
You can make such a node yourself. The dimensions of the iron sheet must exceed the size of the cutout for the pipe.
How to mount a wall crossing
If outer wall baths are made of brick or other non-combustible material, then the installation of the through hole is easy. cut round through hole, where the metal sleeve is then inserted.
You can do without it if the opening is drilled perfectly round for the outer size of the sandwich. Also, it will not be possible to install a sleeve when the chimney passes through the wall at an angle other than 90 °.
There should be no joints in the thickness of the wall. A pipe is inserted into the hole, the space around it is filled with a fire-resistant sealant. It remains only to install and attach it to the vertical section. If the bath is built of wood, then you should be guided by the same rules as when installing a ceiling-through node.
How to choose the size and shape of the chimney
The most optimal chimney pipe configuration is a cylinder. This form will not create obstacles for the exit of smoke and soot will be less deposited on the walls.
The external design, in addition to practical, has a decorative value. It is done so as not to disturb the overall design of the structure.
Pipe diameter
The cross section of the chimney depends on the power of the furnace and is strictly specified in SNiPs. The main dimensions of the exhaust opening are written below, depending on the power of the furnace:
- 140×140 mm for furnaces up to 3.5 kW;
- 140 × 200 mm for furnaces 3.5 - 5.2 kW;
- 140×270 mm for ovens 5.2 - 7.2 kW.
The diameter must not be less than the outlet of the furnace or boiler.
Pipe height
The height of the chimney is calculated taking into account the height of the building, the type of roof, as well as the size of neighboring buildings. When designing, it is especially important to take into account the height of the pipe located above the roof of the building. So, according to SNiPs, it should rise above the roof by at least:
- 0.5 m above the ridge when the pipe is located at a distance of up to 1.5 m from the ridge below;
- level or slightly above the ridge, if it is at a distance of 1.5 - 3 m from the ridge down;
- at a distance of more than 3 m from the ridge, the chimney pipe should be at the same level or slightly higher than the line drawn down from the ridge, at an angle of 10 ° to the horizon;
- the height of the ventilation duct for flat roofs is 1 m;
- if the pipe is 1.5 m above the roof level, it must be additionally fixed with braces.
The pipe joints should not fall into the space between the ceiling and the roof. They are fastened with clamps and coated with sealant. outer pipe must exactly match the calculated size, otherwise the traction will be poor.
Do-it-yourself chimney device
How to make a chimney without resorting to the help of specialists? Before taking on such hard work consider all the points for and against such an installation. After all, from correct operation system will depend on the safety of bath visitors!
When starting to install a pipe in a bath, first of all you need to buy or make yourself all the structural elements of the chimney. You can make a pipe with your own hands only with a special tool and with experience in this matter. It is much easier to buy ready-made parts and assemble the entire system from them. Such work is within the power of everyone who knows how and loves to perform all construction work on their own.
What tools and materials will be needed
For installation, prepare the following tool:
- jigsaw;
- chisel;
- Bulgarian;
- screwdriver;
- screwdriver;
- level;
- roulette.
Before assembling the structure, the following materials will be required:
- clamps for fixing joints;
- head, which serves as protection from precipitation;
- elements for creating a transition through the floor and roof structure;
- insulation materials;
- tees and adapters needed to organize corners in the path of smoke.
Before leading the pipe in the bath through the roof or wall, also prepare metal protective sheets in advance that cover part of the wall and ceiling from high temperatures.
Chimney installation sequence
Consider the installation scheme in advance. It will take place in several stages. First of all, holes are made in the ceiling and roof equal to the size of the pipe plus ten centimeters.
If the distance between the attic floor and the roof is more than 1.5 meters, then an unloading unit is installed on the attic floor.
Preparing openings for passage
Types of chimney passages can be as follows: through the wall, ceiling, roof. When installing a metal, ceramic or sandwich pipe, the passage hole is first prepared. Determine the place where it should pass through the roof. The size corresponding to the installation of the roof cutting is marked, and an opening is cut out in the ceiling from the inside of the roof.
If necessary, beams are laid that will strengthen the structure and will support the ceiling as well as the roof. Then, passage nodes are mounted outside (a box in the ceiling).
Chimney protective box
This assembly is designed to lead the chimney through the roof or ceiling. Most often, galvanized iron, stainless steel, copper and profiled sheet are used for the manufacture of boxes.
These materials have properties such as resistance to high levels of moisture, temperature extremes and the absence of corrosive processes, as well as a long service life. A protective box is made according to the dimensions that are removed from the finished chimney or according to pre-prepared drawings.
How to clean a chimney
After answering the questions on how to properly install the smoke exhaust structure, and what materials are available, we will figure out how to care for the chimney. If firewood, fuel briquettes, coal or other types of solid fuel, it will be necessary to clean the chimney from time to time. There are two effective ways to remove scale from pipes.
- Mechanical brushing - old and reliable way. It requires certain knowledge, time, strength and special tools. For a brick chimney, it is better to take a steel ruff, and for a metal chimney, a plastic one.
- cleaning chemicals. There are two types of substances - for prevention (a powdered additive to firewood) and a "chimney sweep" log. It contains a large dose of active substances, which, when burned, remove all accumulated soot.
Common mistakes during construction
To avoid poor traction, or even waste or fire, you need to take into account the advice of experts:
- The optimal shape for the chimney is a circle. The delivered design with a bizarre shape will collect more soot, and also serve as a barrier to smoke.
- At the design stage, observe the requirements for horizontal sections of the chimney. Their length should not exceed 1 meter.
- Do not use an old brick chimney for a bath; it is better to insert a sleeve made of acid-resistant material into it.
- You should not save on the pipe, its length should correspond to the starting calculated one, taking into account the configuration of the roof. Size - to be optimal, not longer and not shorter.
- When choosing from what to make a good hood, do not opt for cheap asbestos-cement products.
- Do not risk connecting two chimneys into one yourself or resizing an existing system.
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