Isolate the chimney from the ceiling. We make the insulation of the chimney on the roof

The correct passage of the chimney through the attic floor, truss system and roof is no less important than compliance with all other requirements when building the stove itself. The fire safety of the house, and therefore of all those living in it, as well as the efficiency of the heater, will depend on how reliably these nodes are equipped.

The passage of the chimney through the wooden floor must be especially reliable, since in this area the heated walls of the pipe are in close proximity to combustible materials. In order to secure the floor elements, various thermal insulation materials and special devices can be used - there is no shortage of them on the market today.

The performance of such work must be treated with the utmost responsibility. Therefore, in order to understand these issues, you should familiarize yourself with the current requirements. normative documents, consider the very process of passing the chimney through the ceiling in order to do everything strictly according to the rules established by the controlling organizations.

What do building codes and regulations (SNiP) say about this?

SNiP 41-01-2003 "Ventilation, air conditioning and heating" regulates the main aspects related to the arrangement of various autonomous systems heating. Since this publication is devoted to the analysis of the design features of the passage of the chimney through the attic floor, special attention should be paid to section 6.6 - this is “Stove heating”, and its subsections.

In some cases, these existing rules become a real problem for owners of private houses when arranging their home heating system. Such difficulties arise due to the fact that some of the requirements for modern heating systems and materials used for thermal insulation are clearly outdated. However, despite the possible obvious contradictions, the controlling organizations rely on this guideline and require the implementation of established standards.

At the same time, it must be remembered that if the stove is installed in a newly built house, then it will be necessary to legalize its presence in the fire department, otherwise registering the property simply will not work. Such a permit is issued on the basis of an act drawn up by an employee of the controlling organization that accepts the building. If, during the inspection, serious violations of existing standards are found, then there is nowhere to go - you will have to correct the mistakes made. Therefore, it is best not to immediately deviate from the established standards.

Not everyone likes the dry language of regulatory documents, and therefore they are simply afraid to look into them. Let's try to state these rules for them in a few paragraphs:

• The thickness of the walls of a brick chimney in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bits passage through ceilings, roofs or walls (partitions) must be greater than along the main height. This thickening is called cutting.

According to existing standards, the thickness of the groove is considered taking into account the thickness of the pipe itself. The masters often use the colloquial term “from smoke” in this regard. So, the standard size of the cut is:

- 500 mm, if the pipe borders on a building structure made of combustible material (which, of course, includes a wooden floor).

- 380 mm - for those cases when the materials of the building structure are protected from fire by a layer of plaster of at least 25 mm with steel mesh reinforcement, or a metal sheet with asbestos lining under it with a thickness of at least 8 mm.

• The height of the chimney cut must be at least 70 mm greater than the thickness of the ceiling. By the way, SNiP does not stipulate from which side these millimeters should “look out” - from below, on the ceiling, or in the attic. Among the masters, judging by the forums, there is also no unanimity. But, as a rule, customers are asked to make a flat ceiling in the room, so a 70-millimeter step can be located in the attic. However, if you read the forums again, you can find cases when fire inspectors demanded a 70-mm "side" both above and below. And it was not possible to convince them of the opposite.
• It is undesirable to cut the chimney rigidly to the floor materials or to rely on any building structures. True, there is no categorical prohibition on this matter, but one should nevertheless adhere to such a recommendation that the deformation of one element that occurred for some reason does not entail the destruction of the other.
• The space between the cutting and the building structure is filled with non-combustible materials. The list of materials is not specified, but in practice, those that can be classified as thermal insulators are usually used - these are expanded clay, vermiculite, mineral wool.
• If the cutting of the pipe falls on the opening of a wall or partition and combustible materials, then its thickness cannot be less than the thickness of the partition itself. In this case, the cutting should be performed along the entire height of the wall.
• When the pipe passes through the roofing, cutting is also often performed, which in this place is called "otter". In any case, the distance from the outer walls to any elements of the roof structure made of combustible materials must be at least 130 mm for a brick pipe, and 250 mm for a ceramic pipe without thermal insulation (when using insulation with a heat transfer resistance of at least 0.3 m² × ºС / W - 130 mm). The section of the roof at the passageway must be made of non-combustible material only.
• When building a furnace and its chimney, it is important to observe the distance to walls and partitions. This gap has its own name - retreat. The amount of retreat is also regulated by the requirements of SNiP:

Chimney wall thickness, mm	Retreat type	Distance from the outer surface of the wall of the furnace or chimney to the wall or partition made of combustible material, mm
		- non-flammable surface	- surface protected from fire
120 (ceramic fired brick)	open	260	200
	Closed	320	260
65 (heat-resistant concrete)	open	320	260
	Closed	500	380

The surface will be considered protected from fire if the requirements already mentioned above are met - plaster of the required thickness or asbestos-metal "pie". At the same time, the dimensions of the area on which such protection is made must be larger than the dimensions of the furnace or chimney by at least 150 mm in each direction.

These requirements are optional only for partitions made of materials with a fire resistance rating of REI 60 and higher (preservation bearing capacity, integrity and thermal insulation properties under 60 minutes of direct exposure to fire) and zero flame spread limit.

• When installing factory-made metal furnaces, it is necessary to follow the recommendations given in the manufacturer's documentation. If not, the general rules apply.
• It has importance and the distance between the furnace itself (its upper wall) and the ceiling. The following regulations apply here:

A. If the furnace ceiling consists of three continuous brick rows, then this distance should not be less than:

— for unprotected ceilings - 350 mm for periodic fires, and 1000 mm for long-burning stoves.

- for ceilings protected with a plaster layer or asbestos 10 mm + metal - 250 and 700 mm, respectively.

B. If the oven floor consists of only two continuous rows, then the distances to the ceiling indicated above should be increased by one and a half times.

V. For metal stoves, the clearance between their upper surface and the ceiling of the room must be at least 800 mm if the ceiling has the above-mentioned thermal protection, and 1200 mm if it is not.

• The penetration of metal chimneys through any floors or walls must be carried out through sleeves made of non-hot material.

The gaps around the chimney pipes must be sealed with non-combustible materials (class NG or, in extreme cases, G1), best of all - with the lowest possible coefficient of thermal conductivity. This will provide the necessary fire resistance for fences.

Wood used for mounting truss system and attic floor, belongs to the G3-G4 group in terms of combustibility. After being treated with flame retardants, it becomes more resistant to fire, but, despite this, it remains combustible. It is naive to rely on the "magical qualities" of the advertised impregnations, which allegedly completely makes the tree non-combustible. That is why it is necessary to adhere to the norms established by SNiP, correctly positioning the chimney and other sections of the furnace at the specified distances from the structural elements of the house.

Self-activity in these matters, unauthorized deviation from the existing rules, simply committed negligence can lead to tragic consequences, since overheating of the building elements adjacent to the furnace structure will most likely end in their ignition.

So, a poorly equipped chimney penetration through a wooden ceiling can easily lead to a fire. To avoid tragic consequences, it is necessary to properly insulate the cutting, ensuring the proper level of fire safety.

To figure out how to carry out these actions correctly, it is necessary, keeping in mind the recommendations of SNiP, to consider the whole process in stages.

Since the chimney can be metal or brick, it is necessary to separately consider the installation of both options.

Penetration for a metal chimney pipe

Special devices and materials for sinking a metal chimney

Box-shaped ceiling-through structures

Arrangement of the passage of a chimney metal pipe through the structure hardwood floor can be carried out using a ready-made ceiling-through assembly, or made independently, but in compliance with the standard dimensions.

If purchased ready-made version such penetration, then its size is selected according to the diameter of the chimney pipe. The convenience of using the factory box is that its design already provides for all the dimensions established by SNiP, so you don’t have to rack your brains over this. It remains only to show an opening in the ceiling for penetration, and then strengthen its thermal protection of the surfaces.

You can make a passage-box yourself. It is made of different materials - it can be a steel sheet with a thickness of at least 0.5 mm, alone or in combination with minerite, asbestos sheet, with mineral basalt wool foiled on one or both sides. If the box is purchased or made of metal, then it will need to be thermally insulated with ordinary or foil mineral wool, vermiculite, expanded clay.

If it is decided to make such a penetration on its own, then the diameter of the hole in its central part should be approximately 0.5 mm larger than the outer diameter of the pipe. This is done in such a way that the metal pipe passes freely through the box, but at the same time, the gap between them would not be too large.

For the manufacture of penetrations, you can use the dimensions shown in the illustrations and presented in the table:

Letter designation of structural elements and size in mm
d - hole diameter	L - side length of the decorative panel of the box	G - the width of the sides of the box	H - box height
205	580	370	310
215	580	370	310
255	580	450	310
285	580	450	310

• If the passage box is made only of foil mineral wool 50 mm thick, it is best to cut the elements for it according to pre-made templates. The assembly of parts into a single structure is carried out using heat-resistant foil tape. Having chosen this option for cutting, you must not forget that you will also need to purchase or make one or two metal panels for it. One of them is fixed to the ceiling surface, flush with it, and the second (optional) closes the heat-insulating material from the side of the attic.

• Another option for penetration can be a box made of a metal sheet, insulated with the same foil-clad mineral wool. This insulation is cut into strips with a width equal to the height of the resulting box and is laid along the walls on the end, with the foil side to the pipe. The space of the box free from the pipe must be densely filled with a thermal insulator.
• The box can also be made of mineralite (fiber-reinforced concrete slabs) 10 mm thick. Structural elements are also cut out according to prepared templates, and then fastened together using metal corners. A smaller box made of a metal sheet 0.5 mm thick is installed and fixed in a casing made of this material.

Between the walls of the outer and inner ducts there should be a gap of 10 ÷ 15 mm wide, which is filled with basalt insulation, and the space around the pipe can be filled with vermiculite, expanded clay of fine or medium fraction or the same mineral wool. The holes through which the pipe will pass must have the same diameter in both boxes. A metal plate can also be used to aesthetically design the penetration from the side of the living room, or the fiber cement board can be left open. After finishing installation work, the slab facing the living room will be easy to paint in the color of the ceiling.

Video - Making and installing a home-made box-shaped penetration for the chimney of a bath stove

Heat-resistant materials for the manufacture of penetrations

A few minutes of attention deserve the characteristics of heat-resistant materials that are used to insulate the ceiling penetration. They differ in some of their qualities from conventional insulation made on the same basis.

• Minerite is an absolutely non-combustible material, which is also called fiber cement boards in another way. It is often used for wall cladding in areas where stoves and chimneys are installed.

Minerite prices

This material is not only resistant to extremely high temperatures, but also moisture resistant, has good mechanical strength, does not contribute to the formation of mold and fungus colonies. Minerite is an environmentally friendly material, therefore, at elevated temperatures, it does not emit fumes harmful to human health.

For the manufacture of screens installed in the cutting and on the walls around furnaces and chimneys, "minerite LV" panels are used. In addition, such panels are also suitable for the construction of fire-resistant partitions.

• Non-combustible slabs made of basalt wool and covered with aluminum foil are used for fire protection of walls and passages around chimneys.

This material is made from environmentally friendly components and has a high resistance to aggressive biological and chemical effects. According to its thermal insulation data, mineral wool, of course, is many times superior to mineralite, but inferior to it in mechanical strength and durability.

High-quality basalt slabs do not accumulate moisture, and they do not create a favorable environment for the settlement of rodents and insects, the appearance of microflora colonies. This type of insulation belongs to the flammability group G1. (Yes, and this is only due to the adhesive layer that holds the foil coating, since in “pure form” basalt insulation can be attributed to completely non-combustible materials). Basalt slabs from different manufacturers may differ somewhat in the upper limit of the operating temperature range. But in any case, it ranges from +750 to 1100 degrees, which should be more than enough for the chimney.

Prices for basalt slabs

basalt slabs

Installation of a penetration for a metal pipe

Before installing the penetration into the window cut out for it in the attic floor, it must be prepared, further strengthened, if necessary, and insulated from high temperatures.

• The first step is to additionally monitor the state of the opening and the surrounding parts of the ceiling structure. This is done in order to make sure that the box in it will be securely fastened.

The box penetration must be firmly fixed to the ceiling structure. It, of course, is positioned so that it is between the floor beams (it is clear that these issues regarding the placement of the furnace in the room are always thought out in advance). Beams can become a reliable basis for fastening the penetration, located on the sides of it.

However, it often happens that the floor beams are too far apart and therefore the "pie" of the floor in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe pipe passage does not have the necessary rigidity, and it will need to be strengthened. Another option, exactly the opposite, is that the too frequent step of the installed beams does not leave enough free space to accommodate the box penetration.

In any of these cases, after removing the desired section of the coating, you can mount the frame, in accordance with the dimensions of the box, using wooden beam. The crossbars of this frame are rigidly cut into the floor beams. If necessary, with too widely spaced beams, additional longitudinal support bars can be used in the frame. An example of creating such a frame is shown in the illustration.

Such a check and strengthening (refinement) of the frame will be necessary if it is mounted in an already built house. However, as a rule, the installation of stoves and, therefore, the installation of chimneys, are planned in advance. And in the process of installing floor beams during the construction of a building, such a frame is provided in advance for the subsequent installation of box-shaped penetration.

• Further, all wooden details ceiling structure, located along the perimeter of the cut-out window for penetration, must be additionally treated with a special impregnation. The flame retardants included in the composition will increase the fire characteristics of the created assembly. Continue to further operations only after complete drying of the treated surfaces.

• The next step is to install a penetration box into the cut-out opening from the side of the room. The edges of its bottom part are securely screwed with self-tapping screws on the ceiling surface.

But this operation should be carried out only after careful control of the location of the round hole for the chimney relative to the heater. It is unacceptable that even a slight deviation causes unevenness, a "break" of the installed pipe. This will create unnecessary stress in its walls, which may well lead to insufficient sealing in the joints.

Precise alignment of the box passage is best done on a plumb line to ensure that the axis of the pipe being installed is vertical.

• Further, the lower part of the chimney pipe is assembled, starting from the outlet pipe of the furnace (boiler).

It is very important - no matter the distance from the stove to the ceiling, and no matter what accessories are used, never, under any circumstances, the connection of two elements (pipes) of the chimney should not fall on the ceiling. Moreover, the minimum distance from such a connecting node to the floor surface (whether from below, indoors, or from above, from the side of the attic) must be at least 300 mm.

The requirements for the correct location of the junctions of individual pipes are important, of course, from the standpoint of providing visual control. But the main predetermining factor of such a considerable (300 mm) offset from the ceiling is the continuing possibility of a breakthrough of hot gases in these, to be honest, remaining the most vulnerable places of the prefabricated metal chimney.

• The next stage of work can be carried out from the side of the attic or living space, depending on how it is more convenient to mount next section pipes. If the work is carried out from the side of the attic, then the next part of the chimney pipe is passed through the hole and fixed on the lower, already mounted section.

• When the pipe is led into the attic, you can proceed to filling the penetration box with heat-insulating material. If one of the loose thermal insulation materials is selected, and small gaps remain between the pipe and the border of the round hole, they can be clogged with basalt wool or plastic clay, and then the insulation is poured from above.

From bulk heat-insulating materials, it is best to choose expanded clay or vermiculite. Ordinary sand is used for backfilling only as a last resort, since it has a too fine fraction, a large weight and an excessively high thermal conductivity for such a function. Expanded perlite sand is not particularly convenient to use in such conditions due to its excessively high "volatility".

The easiest way to fill the box with heat-resistant basalt wool, as it has the lowest thermal conductivity. When using a mineral wool mat, the box from the attic side should not be sealed thoroughly in order to have free access to the pipe throughout its entire length. If the pipe goes to the second floor, then the hole in its floor with insulation material around the chimney can be closed with a metal sheet, screwing it to the floor.

The selection of photographs below demonstrates the installation of a home-made box penetration made of dense slabs of foil basalt insulation.

- The first two fragments: this is a finished self-made penetration from different angles.

- The third fragment: a window was cut out in the ceiling for the installation of penetrations. Please note: to ensure maximum safety, the master filled the gap between the ceiling covering and the attic floor with mineral wool.

- Fourth photo: The penetration box is inserted into the prepared opening and fixed from below.

- Fifth fragment: After the installation of the pipe section leading to the attic, the penetration is closed from below with a metal panel. It is securely fixed on the ceiling with self-tapping screws, completely covers the edges of the window of the passage unit, holds the heat-insulating box well in the ceiling and provides mechanical protection for the mineral wool panel, which is not very durable.

- Sixth photo: Continuation of the installation of the chimney. The gap between the pipe and the box will be tightly filled with mineral wool. Since the attic in this case is “inhabited”, the passage node will be covered with a decorative metal plate.

And in the video below, the master managed without creating a box structure at all.

Video: fire fluffing of a chimney pipe in a passage through a wooden floor

The passage of a brick pipe through the ceiling

A masonry chimney is usually designed to protect surrounding combustible materials from overheating. The section of the pipe, which is laid out when it passes through the ceiling, is already a cut in itself and is called "fluff".

This chimney design is traditional, long-tested, and most often chosen by stove-makers.

• "Fluffing" begins under the very ceiling in the living room (three to four rows of bricks before it) passes through the entire thickness of the attic floor. Sometimes the fluff is raised to the clean floor of the attic, in other cases it is made flush with the subfloor. Both options can cause nitpicking of the inspectors - we recall the notorious “70 millimeters” already discussed above.

This structural element plays the role of the necessary thickening of the pipe walls, which protects the combustible materials of the ceiling from overheating.

In fact, the design of the “fluff” is directly affected by precisely the requirements of the SNiP that were considered in the first section of the publication. In order not to repeat yourself, you can give a diagram that clearly shows what dimensions and where must be observed:

Can I lay out a brick chimney myself?

The work, at first glance, is simple, however, a lot depends on its quality, up to the health and life of the inhabitants of the house. You can read detailed information about by following the recommended link - it will be easier to figure out whether it is worth taking this event on yourself, or it is better to invite specialists.

• Another option for arranging the penetration of a brick pipe through the ceiling is carried out in almost the same way as a metal pipe. In this case, of course, the chimney along its entire height has the same cross-sectional size, without increasing the thickness of the walls. However, all linear parameters established by SNiP are respected.

The hole in the ceiling can be covered with a metal sheet or fiber cement board. In the middle of the thermal insulation panel, a window is marked, through which the chimney will pass. The length and width of this opening should exceed the similar parameters of the pipe by literally 3 ÷ 5 mm.

When laying the chimney, about three or four rows from the ceiling, a sheet with a prepared opening is put on it, and then the laying is carried out further to the height of the attic's clean floor.

The next step, the sheet put on the pipe is lifted, pressed and fixed to the ceiling in a way convenient in a particular case - with self-tapping screws or dowels.

Further, work is carried out from the side of the attic or the second floor. Strips of basalt wool, pieces of asbestos or fiber cement slabs are laid along the walls of the opening cut out for penetration. This "frame" should cover the entire thickness of the attic floor. If necessary, the material can be fixed on the floor beams.

Thanks to these operations, a kind of box is created around the neck of the pipe, which will be filled with heat-resistant material. As it can be used basalt wool, which densely fill the entire volume. If cotton wool with a foil layer is used, then it is turned towards the walls of the furnace.

It is quite possible to perform such thermal insulation of the pipe with expanded clay or vermiculite, but before backfilling, it is imperative to close up the gaps remaining between the pipe and the edges of the opening, especially if fine fraction material is used.

Of course, you can do exactly the same as with a metal pipe, putting a ready-made penetration made of steel sheet. This option will probably be more reliable and convenient both in terms of its installation and reliable fixation, and when filling the box with thermal insulation material. True, such a box will cost much more. Does it make sense - decide for yourself.

After filling the penetration with insulation, it is also covered from above with a metal or fiber cement sheet.

At this point, the work on arranging the safe passage of the chimney through the ceiling can be considered completed.

After reviewing the details of the arrangement of this area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe chimney, we can come to the following conclusion:

That there are no particularly complex actions that are subject only to highly qualified narrow specialists in this process. The main thing is to scrupulously follow the requirements established by SNiP, maintaining all the necessary dimensions and following the recommendations. If you do everything according to the rules, then you can not only ensure safe operation heater, but also to avoid completely unnecessary problems with regulatory authorities. you can find out from the link.

Evgeny AfanasievChief Editor

Publication author 28.10.2016

Having your Vacation home, you need to take care of warming up the rooms in the cold season. A stove or other heating system needs a chimney to be installed. The smoke exhaust pipe is the main element of the heat supply communications. For its effective functioning, it is necessary to insulate the chimney from the outside.

The relevance of thermal insulation

Moisture and smoke generated during the combustion of fuel are aggressive factors affecting the brick chimney. drop temperature regime in the cold season, and the accumulated moisture settling on the walls fills microcracks with water, and stone structure collapses from within. Small ice crystals press from the inside and destroy it. An insulated chimney allows this to be excluded.
During combustion, condensate is formed on the surface of the flue, which includes a chemical series of oxides. Interacting, the elements form weak acids (carbonic, sulfuric, etc.) that can destroy the metal surface. It is for this reason that chimney insulation is necessary.
Proper installation of thermal insulation helps prevent fires inside the premises and will not allow the roof to ignite. Well-heated chimney pipes improve draft in the fireplace, boiler and stove, there is less tar and burning deposits in it. The efficiency of the heating unit is significantly increased.

Positive factors of an insulated chimney

Before answering the question - how to insulate the pipe, it is necessary to highlight the advantages of an insulated chimney.
An insulated gas outlet provides protection for the heating system from the effects of the external environment and combustion products. Of course, thermal insulation cannot completely protect the structure from destruction, but it will extend its service life. This happens due to the following factors:

1. Pipe insulation allows maintaining thermal balance in the middle of the structure, excluding the possibility of aggressive acids and condensate falling onto the walls. The products of combustion are completely volatilized together with the smoke stream.
2. Chimney insulation minimizes the possibility of a temperature difference between the cooled flue and hot steam.
3. Increased energy-saving properties that contribute to fuel economy.
4. The strength of the steam outlet structure increases due to the reinforcing frame.

Properly selected chimney insulation increases the frost-resistant properties of the system, ensures long-term preservation of the appearance and increases the service life, which is very important.

The choice of material for thermal insulation

The main question of the owners of country houses with an autonomous heating system- how to insulate the chimney. In order to reliably insulate the outlets for the furnace or boiler, materials with a high degree of thermal insulation are used to ensure the thermal balance of the chimney on the roof.

Basalt insulation

Relevant for the insulation of the chimney mineral wool or basalt. Insulation is obtained from a melt of volcanic rock - gabbo-basalt. It is converted into fibers, due to which the insulating material has the advantages of:

• retains up to 95% of heat;
• characterized by good permeability of the outgoing steam;
• different chemical and corrosion resistance;
• prevents the growth of fungus and mold on the surface of the chimney on the roof;
• vibration and heat resistant;
• made of ecological materials;
• not subject to destruction under the influence of ultraviolet radiation.

Stainless steel casing

Metal "armor" in the form of a pipe made of stainless steel is used as an option for insulation. It is able to provide full protection against mechanical damage, moisture and other aggressive factors.
The casing for the chimney is mounted on a pipe on the roof. The annular space is filled with basalt wool, covered with insulation from the outside, 5 cm thick. An asbestos chimney can be wrapped with this insulation.

Wooden shields

Wooden shields are considered one of the simplest options for insulating a chimney pipe. Thermal insulation is made in the form of a wooden frame from plates of the appropriate size. On top of it, slate or other flooring is fixed, from which the roof of the dwelling is made.
After the pipe is completely covered with wood, the empty cavity is filled with felt, slag, sand, mineral wool. Frame seams are necessarily covered with a waterproofing compound.

Slag-reinforced concrete insulation slabs

Insulation of the chimney in a private house using iron and cinder concrete slabs provides the smallest distance between the joints on the structure. The space inside and the corners are reinforced with mesh or wire, gypsum, clay and sand are poured in the form of a solution. Plaster is applied over the tiled insulation.

The specifics of insulation work

When insulating the chimney with your own hands, we take into account that during the operation of the heating boiler, the temperature in the smoke exhaust duct can reach 200 -300 degrees.

As insulation, it is better to choose a material with high heat-resistant properties: glass wool, mineral wool, basalt.

In the building materials market, thermal insulation is sold in the form of finished cylinders with a special foil screen. With their help, they make out the gas duct and adjacent roof elements - protecting them from fire and cold air. Tubular structures are sold in different diameters, which allows you to wrap different-sized smoke outlets.

Regulatory requirements for the installation of thermal insulation

Before insulating the chimney pipe, you must make sure that it is installed correctly.

The flue is carried out in accordance with the technological standards specified in GOST 52953-2008

1. The combustion products outlet pipe must be 5 m high. This indicator ensures optimal draft in the heating system.
2. A distance of at least 250 mm is required between the roof slab and the outer element of the boiler room.
3. If the building is covered with combustible materials, in particular, slate, roofing material, ondulin, then the insulated smoke exhaust structure must be equipped with a spark arrester.

After making sure that the system is installed correctly, you can proceed to subsequent work on winding with thermal insulation.

The main methods of insulation

The metal chimney pipe is insulated using various methods.

Steel chimney insulation technique

The chimney is insulated using a special solution. The composition is prepared from a dry mixture and water. The solution is applied with a spatula to the surface, spreading over the entire area. Then a fiberglass reinforcing frame is fixed on it, on which plaster is applied.

Gas boiler chimney insulation

Insulation for pipes of a gas boiler must have a number of increased heat-insulating and heat-resistant qualities.

Sandwich structures block condensate from settling on the surface, saving energy at the same time.

Sandwich chimney consists of a layer of mineral wool and two metal pipes. The upper element, with a large diameter, is the main sleeve, the smaller one is part of the steam outlet channel.
How to isolate such a chimney pipe with your own hands? You must follow the recommendations:

1. In the roof of the roof and ceilings, holes are made with a diameter of 25 cm larger than the chimney channel.
2. At this stage, it is necessary to insulate the chimney pipe with a layer of basalt wool. The thickness of the winding must be at least 5 cm.
3. The insulation around the pipe is fixed with steel wire.
4. A larger casing is put on top.

Upon completion of the work, the chimney is connected to a heating source and the surrounding riser is filled with expanded clay, clay or asbestos.

Sauna chimneys

Insulation of the chimney in the bath is aimed at improving the heat transfer of the heating source, which is a stone stove.

You can isolate the chimney in the steam room using the following options:

• thermal insulation - a material made of foamed polyethylene, hidden between sheets of foil. Insulation rolls with a thickness of 2 - 10 mm are offered on the market. The foil surface reduces overheating of the pipe. The insulation is wrapped around the chimney, fixed with wire or metallized tape;
• Filgoizol consists of two balls: a foil that saves more than 90% of the heat in the room and a heat insulator. The material is used to cover the walls and ceilings of the sauna, providing the effect of a thermos;
• sandwich pipe, consisting of several sections. This option is suitable for saunas and baths with an iron stove.

insulate metal pipe– means to ensure the optimal functioning of the heating system. Proper installation of chimney insulation with your own hands allows you to increase the operational life of the structure and the heat generator, and also prevents fire.

The chimney is the central element of the chimney system in any private house where there is heating equipment that runs on solid or liquid fuels. For his effective work it requires not only compliance with the installation technology, but also the device of a full-fledged heat-insulating layer, which will be located outside the chimney.

Why you need to insulate the chimney

During operation, the smoke channel is transported a large number of combustion products and hot air. All this reduces the service life of the chimney by accelerating the processes of corrosion and oxidation of the inner walls of the outlet channel.

Among the most common problems that lead to damage to the chimney are:

Insulation of the chimney using modern heat-insulating materials reduces the risk of damage and reduces the rate of corrosion processes. For example, the insulation of steel chimneys extends the service life of the product by 2 or more times.

Benefits of an insulated chimney

Timely thermal insulation of the chimney reduces the risk of exposure to factors that lead to the formation of damage in metal, brick or ceramics. With the right thickness of the insulation, the problem with condensate is solved almost completely - the dew point shifts to the pipe section located above the roof level. This significantly increases the resource of the smoke channel and the life of the flue system as a whole.

Insulation of the chimney increases its service life several times

Other benefits of an insulated chimney include:

1. Reduced deposits - thermal insulation materials help to reduce the temperature difference between the combustion products and the surface of the chimney. This reduces the amount of substances deposited on inner surface chimney.
2. Energy saving - in the process of operation, an insulated chimney takes less energy received from fuel combustion. This reduces the consumption of fuel and energy spent on maintaining a constant temperature in the combustion chamber.
3. Strength and stability - thermal insulation, mounted around the chimney, plays the role of a frame and increases the strength and stability of the structure. This is especially noticeable when installing thin-walled metal chimneys.

Modern heaters increase the frost resistance of the smoke exhaust system. If the insulation technology is followed, it is possible to reduce or completely eliminate the effect of high temperature in the area where the pipe exits through the roof.

Heaters for thermal insulation of a chimney

For warming furnace chimney materials are used that provide a high degree of insulation, coupled with low thermal conductivity. This eliminates the risk of cold bridges, icing and condensation.

Among the most effective and popular materials for insulation are the following:

• plaster - used for insulation of brick and stone chimneys. plaster mortar applied to a previously prepared reinforced surface. In terms of the ratio of labor costs and quality, this method is the least justified;

  Chimney insulation with heat-resistant plaster requires unreasonably large labor costs

• broken brick - used for thermal insulation of brick and steel structures. The material is poured into a casing, which is fixed around the chimney. The minimum distance from the chimney is 60 mm. Sometimes slag is used instead of broken brick;

  Screened slag densely fills the installation gap and provides a high degree of thermal insulation of the chimney

• basalt wool is a modern heat-insulating material produced in the form of mats or cylinders with various internal sections. The material is wrapped around the chimney and fixed to steel clamps. In terms of price-quality ratio, this method is the most effective.

In fact, all the methods described above have some similarities - the insulation is applied or fixed on the outer surface of the chimney. After that, the heat-insulating material is protected by a steel casing.

In order to save money, the outer steel pipe can be replaced with wooden or cinder-concrete slabs. For example, a rectangular frame can be fixed around the chimney using wooden shields at hand, and the space between the pipe and the shields can be filled with any heat-insulating material.

Which heater is better to choose

The first thing to remember when choosing a material for chimney insulation is that the insulation must be made of non-combustible components. During the operation of the chimney, the insulation will heat up to 100–150 ° C, and at the point where the pipe exits through the ceiling, the temperature may be even higher.

If the installation of the insulation will be carried out by one person, then it is better to choose the lightest and most solid material. Otherwise, during the warming, problems will certainly arise, which will ultimately affect the quality of the work carried out.

For self-insulation of the chimney, it is better to use basalt thermal insulation. The shape and thickness of the product is selected taking into account the existing design of the chimney.

The basalt cylinder can be matched exactly to the size of the chimney pipe

The advantages of heaters based on basalt wool include:

• high thermal insulation qualities;
• good vapor permeability;
• resistance to chemicals;
• immunity to the formation of fungus and mold;
• high heat resistance when heated above 100 ° C;
• environmental friendliness and safety.

Before using ready-made thermal insulation from the manufacturer, you should carefully study the technology of its installation. As a rule, high-quality products are completed with a paper insert or instructions that describe in detail how they are cut and installed.

Video: test for combustibility of basalt wool

The design of the steel insulated chimney

The insulated chimney is a "pipe-in-pipe" design, similar to a sandwich pipe, which is also used for the construction of smoke channels. Usually, a wooden box sheathed with asbestos slabs acts as an outer pipe, or steel pipe large diameter.

Any insulated chimney consists of a smoke exhaust channel, an outer shell and a layer of insulation between them.

Between the outer shell and the chimney there is a non-combustible heat-insulating material fixed mechanically or glued on a heat-resistant adhesive or sealant. The inside of an insulated chimney is nothing but chimney.

The layer of material used as a heater acts as a thermal insulation barrier. On the one hand, it does not allow the elements in direct contact with the chimney to heat up. On the other hand, cold air does not cool the chimney and thus does not create a sharp difference between the temperature of the outgoing combustion products and the inner surface of the chimney.

Calculation of materials and design parameters

Before purchasing insulation and materials needed to assemble the frame around the chimney structure, you will need to calculate them. This will save money, especially if specialized expensive products are used for insulation.

Before making calculations, you will need to measure:

• external section of the chimney;
• length and width (diameter) of the chimney;
• the height of the pipe from the inlet.

The data obtained allow us to calculate the required amount of heat-insulating material and accessories. As an example, we calculate the materials for insulating a steel chimney with a cross section of 200 mm and a height of 5 m.

For thermal insulation of round chimneys, ready-made cylindrical fragments of heaters are produced

When using a basalt "shell", you will need products with a total length of 5 linear meters with inside diameter cylinder 210 mm. The density of the insulation is 120–150 kg / m 3. The thickness of the heat insulator is selected taking into account the temperature regime in the region. For operation in the conditions of the Russian winter, cylinders with a thickness of 70–100 mm are sufficient. As an external pipe, a galvanized steel product with a cross section of 280–310 mm with a total length of 5 m is required.

To insulate square chimneys, it is convenient to use basalt wool in slabs

To insulate square or rectangular chimneys, you will need to know their dimensions. For example, a square chimney with a side of 0.3 m will require (0.3 * 5) * 4 = 6 m 2 of insulation. The length of the chimney is still considered to be 5 m.

If you buy high-quality insulation, then usually in one package there is a roll with a total area of ​​​​5 m 2. So, for our example, we need two packs of basalt wool in rolls. Roll parameters - 5000x1000x50 mm. To assemble the frame around a square chimney, you can use a 50 × 50 mm bar. An asbestos slab 3000x1500x12 is better suited as an outer skin.

Required Tools and Consumables

In addition to the insulation for thermal insulation work, additional Consumables. For Assembly wooden frame and its sheathing, galvanized self-tapping screws 30 mm long are used. To fix the heat insulator, a refractory sealant is used - Penosil High Temp, PENOSIL Premium 1500 or MAKROFLEX HA147.

A heat-resistant sealant is used to fix the insulation to the surface of the chimney

To insulate chimneys made of steel or ceramics, you will need:

• metal scissors;
• construction knife;
• screwdriver;
• angle grinder;
• Screwdriver Set;
• goggles and gloves;
• tape measure and pencil.

To plaster the chimney, it is necessary to prepare a container for plaster, a plastering trowel, a wooden rectangular trowel, a triangular trowel, a rule and a long-haired paint brush.

Preparatory work before the installation of thermal insulation

Before carrying out thermal insulation work, you should check the reliability and strength of the foundation, which was erected under the stove or other heating equipment.

If there is no foundation, then before insulating the chimney, you will need to assemble the supporting structure under the outer casing. This can be either a support bracket, which can be purchased at the store, or a welded frame made from a steel angle. Usually, ready-made support brackets are used for steel chimneys, and in the case of a brick chimney, the foundation design is already designed for current loads.

After that, you should carefully examine the place where the chimney exits through the ceilings and roof. The exit point through the ceiling must be protected by a steel box. The minimum distance from the chimney to the walls of the box is at least 20 cm. When exiting through the roof, the chimney must not come into contact with the roof structures. To do this, provide appropriate spacers or a special cap, which is mounted outside the building.

The place where the chimney exits through the ceiling must be protected by a metal box.

Do-it-yourself chimney insulation

Before proceeding with the insulation, the outer surface of the chimney should be cleaned of dust and dirt. To do this, use a regular brush with a hard bristle and a broom. When cleaning a brick chimney, remove excess dust and loose cement. This can be done using paint brush and water.

Brick chimney insulation technology

Insulation of a brick chimney can be done using different materials. The most time-consuming and inefficient method is plastering, but many still use it, since it does not require high costs. On average, after work, heat loss is reduced by 20-25%.

The sequence of actions for plastering is as follows:

1. In a clean container with a rounded bottom, a mortar based on M500 cement, dry lime and fine slag is kneaded. The slag is screened before kneading. The first portion of the solution should be very thick.

   For the preparation of plaster, it is necessary to knead a solution of cement, lime and slag

2. The solution is carefully applied to the seams between the bricks. At this stage, you need to fill in all the voids. It is advisable to do this before the steel mesh is fixed to the surface of the pipe.

   Brick chimneys are sometimes insulated with heat-resistant plaster, although this is considered the least effective way.

3. A reinforcing steel mesh is fixed on the surface of the chimney. Then you can start carrying plaster mixture. The thickness of the first layer is no more than 3–4 cm. After application, the plaster layer should set and dry slightly.
4. A second plaster layer with a thickness of up to 5–7 cm is applied. If the declared thickness cannot be applied, then a layer of 3–4 cm is applied. Next, you will need to wait for it to set and repeat the work until a plaster coating of the desired thickness is obtained.
5. A finishing layer is being applied. The surface is carefully leveled and rubbed with a trowel. When dry, cracks may form, which must be covered before applying the finish.

After drying, the plaster is bleached with a solution of lime and chalk. If necessary, it is applied in 2-3 layers. Instead of a cement-slag mixture, heat-resistant plaster with fire resistance up to 600 ° C can be used.

Video: sheathing and insulation of a brick chimney

Steel chimney insulation technology

The technology described below can be used to insulate any round chimney, but is most often used for thermal insulation of steel structures. The sequence of work will depend on the type of external pipe. We recommend using the manufacturer's telescopic tube.

Thermal insulation work is carried out in the following order:

In the process of work, you should carefully monitor the docking of the elements. The joint between the upper and lower pipes must be without visible gap. When using pipes without a welded seam, the connecting joint is also treated with a sealant.

Video: steel chimney insulation

Insulation of square and rectangular chimneys

This technology is most often used for brick chimney insulation. But if necessary, this method can be used to insulate the chimney from one or more asbestos pipes.

Warming is carried out in the following sequence:

After installation, the seam between the asbestos plates at the corners of the frame is filled with heat-resistant plaster. From the side of the outlet from the chimney, the surface is also rubbed with heat-resistant plaster.

The main mistakes in warming

After performing thermal insulation work, a test furnace or boiler furnace should be carried out. Max power no more than 60% of the face value. To diagnose and check the quality of insulation, you will need to purchase or rent a hand-held thermal imager. During the diagnostic process, you should find out how tight the outer casing of the insulated chimney is. If everything is in order, then neither the walls of the structure nor the connecting seams will let heat through. This will be clearly visible on the equipment screen.

Loss of tightness is the most common problem that leads to burnout of the chimney and overheating of the insulation. If there is such a problem, then you need to remove outer pipe or casing and install it again in compliance with the technology.

Burnout of an insulated chimney can occur due to loss of tightness or due to improperly selected thickness of the heat insulator

If, after the chimney has been insulated, condensate still continues to accumulate, then, most likely, the thickness of the thermal insulation was chosen incorrectly. The minimum thickness of the insulation should not be less than 4 cm. For insulation of steel and asbestos pipes with a height of more than 6 m, it is recommended to use a heater with a thickness of 10 cm. When insulating brick chimneys, it is better to use heat-insulating boards with a total thickness of 8 cm or more.

Chimney insulation is a mandatory work that must be carried out immediately after the construction of the chimney system and ventilation. It is optimal if, already at the stage of arranging the chimney, modern heat-insulating materials or finished products with a heat-insulating layer are used. This will allow you to assemble a chimney that will last the entire declared period without forced downtime for periods of repair.

The article will discuss how and with what to isolate the chimney pipe. Several practical methods are presented.

Chimney pipe insulation is required to prevent leaks and overheating. Simply put, it allows you to increase the life of the structure. Experts recommend performing complex work, which includes hydro and fire insulation.

Sauna chimney

When performing insulation of a chimney in a bath, the safety of people should be a priority. The main threat indoors comes from open flames. Therefore, it must be protected, having previously made the overlap resistant to high temperatures.

Basically, baths are built from wood, a highly flammable material. A very common misconception is the belief that sheeting the ceiling with metal sheets is sufficient. But in reality, such protection is not enough. After all, the upholstery will still heat up, which can lead to ignition. A popular solution to the problem is to insulate the chimney with red brick. But this is not suitable for every bath design.

There are now two good options for chimney insulation:

• Folgoizol. A bath with such insulation will not lose heat, everything works like a thermos. At the same time, it warms up quite quickly, keeping the temperature for a long time.
• Teploizol. The material is used for winding the chimney.

A popular solution is the use of sandwich pipes, which demonstrate a high degree of safety. The construction of the insulation consists of several sections that can be easily combined with each other. This option is also suitable for saunas with a metal stove.

It is important to be responsible brickwork in the bath. The duration of the operation of the building directly depends on its quality. You can not save on materials or work. After all, the need for repairs in the future will be associated with much higher costs.

Winding of a metal chimney

“How to wrap a metal chimney pipe in a bath?” - a popular question among gardeners. After all, there are many materials used for this cottage. The absence of combustible substances in the coating is a paramount nuance that must be taken into account. Preferably use quality material, which has all the necessary properties. It must also be completely safe to use.

The most common materials:

1. glass wool;
2. Fibrous building materials;
3. Mineral wool.

Insulation of a metal chimney

Insulation of chimneys of a metal chimney is a separate topic for discussion. After all, it contains a number of nuances, which will be discussed later. This is a very difficult task, so it is recommended to perform it during the construction of the bath. It is more difficult to work with a finished building, because it may require rebuilding the roof.

A good solution would be to use sandwich pipes. This design is easy to manufacture, in addition, the cost of specialists will be reduced. However, the material itself does not belong to the budget. But the service life and quality fully justify its cost. Sandwich pipes are additionally insulated with mineral wool.

How to isolate the chimney, everyone decides for himself. It is important to remember that such insulation allows you to protect the chimney from the negative effects of combustion products, as well as moisture. If you do not worry about insulation in time, then there is a risk of destruction of the bath. After all, acid-enhanced condensate slowly destroys building materials. It poses the greatest threat in the spring, when the pipe begins to thaw (in more detail: "").

Box manufacturing

About how to insulate the iron pipe of the chimney, it was said earlier. Now you can move on to the next step. Many people think that making a chimney box is too difficult a task. In reality, this is not so. It is enough to approach the work responsibly, with knowledge of the matter.

Required tools:

• Drill;
• Scissors for metal;
• Compass;
• metal sheets;
• Self-tapping screws.

Stages of work:

1. Hole preparation. Along the edges, it is necessary to fix the bars, which will act as a support for the body.
2. Two blanks are cut from a metal sheet. They are given a U-shape. Then the finished parts are screwed to the ceiling using self-tapping screws.
3. Again, two blanks are made, but they are already fixed on standing sheets with a small spade. It turns out a solid frame in the ceiling.
4. Now the bottom is made for the box from a metal sheet. In the center of the workpiece there should be a hole for the chimney, here you need a compass.
5. The box contains four fasteners of two centimeters. They are cut and bent perpendicular to the bottom.
6. Walls are attached to the bottom. Now a chimney is inserted into the box, it is additionally fixed with clamps. The voids are filled with an insulating layer.

Chimney installation

Installing a chimney is not as simple a task as it might seem at first glance. There are many nuances that should be taken into account. If the chimney is not installed with sufficient quality, this can lead to damage to property, as well as creating discomfort for the people inside, and harming their health.

Stages of work:

1. The preparatory stage, where a project of work is selected, materials are purchased, and the form of construction is determined. There are straight chimneys, as well as designs with various bends.
2. Now you can start assembling the chimney. Pipe joints, elbows and tees must be fastened with clamps.
3. Passing the chimney through the roof using a special tool. To begin with, the level of the slope of the roof is determined, based on the data obtained, a suitable place is selected. It cuts a hole for the workpiece. From above, everything is insulated with a roof cut, and from the inside - with a cover sheet. See also: "".
4. A special apron is fixed on the branch pipe. The pipe is extended to the required dimensions, its top is partially insulated with a special cover in the form of an umbrella. It will prevent atmospheric precipitation from entering the chimney.

Chimney fixture

The workpiece must be brought to the roof through the attic. All cracks, especially voids between the roof and the pipe, are filled with waterproofing. When removing the workpiece, you must remember safety precautions.

An elbow is used to secure the chimney pipe. It is designed to control the vertical arrangement of the structure. To give everything reliability, the pipe is additionally attached to the wall, using suitable brackets. Usually they are included in a ready-made set. They can also be made by hand, it is best to use metal corners as the basis for them.

As soon as the insulating structure is in place and securely fixed, it is necessary to close the chimney pipe with an umbrella. It is designed to protect the structure from precipitation, poplar fluff and fallen leaves. It is also necessary to think in advance how to cover up the chimney pipe, in order to avoid leaks.

Replacing a brick pipe with a metal one

If a brick chimney is not enough, it can be further extended with a metal pipe. The task is laborious, but quite realizable. It is important to approach it with all responsibility.

To begin with, a flat steel platform with a pipe is made. Moreover, its diameter should be the same as the diameter of the metal pipe that is planned to be used. The site must be securely fixed. It is fixed with dowels and screws. Sealing will add additional reliability.

Work order:

• On the brickwork, you need to mark the points at which the mount will be installed. They can not be placed on the masonry seam. It is advisable to place them closer to the center of the brick, and not on its edge.
• Holes are drilled in the marked places to accommodate the dowels. At the same points, holes are made on a flat platform, self-tapping screws will go there.
• A refractory sealant is applied to the brick base, then a steel platform is placed there. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the dowels. It is important to monitor the fit and uniformity.
• Now it remains to wait for the sealant to dry completely and proceed directly to extending the chimney using a metal pipe.

Important installation details:

1. If the length of the pipe section above the roof exceeds 1.5 m, it is recommended to equip it with special stretch marks that strengthen the structures (read also: "").
2. It is impossible to install a branch pipe, the length of which from the stove to the head is more than 5 m.
3. Installing special plugs allows you to get rid of condensate.
4. The section of the chimney above the roof must be longer than 1.5 m.
5. Do not narrow the pipe when installing the chimney.
6. Nearby structures made of flammable materials should not be heated to a temperature of 50 o C.
7. The chimney must not be placed near electrical wiring.

The decision on how to insulate a metal chimney pipe should be made based on the budget, as well as the needs of the structure. It is important to approach the task as responsibly as possible, performing work in full compliance with all norms and nuances. Then the insulation of the chimney will last a long time without any complaints.

A variety of insulating materials for baths
Folgoizol
Teploizol
Sandwich pipe as a chimney
The method of isolating the chimney in a Russian bath
Sauna stove insulation

The operation of the bath must be absolutely safe for humans. To prevent fire from contact with a hot stove or chimney pipe, walls and ceilings, as well as hot surfaces, should be carefully insulated. We will describe in detail how to insulate the chimney pipe in the sauna in this article.

According to sad statistics, during 2014, up to 70% of fires in private baths arose due to incorrect thermal insulation of metal pipes. Therefore, in order to help our readers to protect themselves and their guests, we will talk about the materials, as well as the technology for performing pipe insulation in the bath.

The favorite material for baths in Russia is wood. However, it tends to be very flammable. To avoid this, people have long learned how to insulate the chimney in the bath, as well as the stove and all surfaces - walls, ceilings. For this purpose, any available funds- clay, asbestos or any other non-combustible materials with a low degree of thermal conductivity.

Another argument in favor of thermal insulation of the chimney is that in this case the pipe will cool much more slowly, and condensate will not accumulate in it.

It is wrong to assume that good decision regarding how to insulate the pipe in the bath, there will be a sheet metal mount on the ceiling. The metal is able to heat up very quickly, which in no way prevents ignition, so it is not suitable for thermal insulation.

As an option, than to overlay the pipe in the bath, you can use red refractory bricks.

Thermal insulation of the chimney in the ceiling! HOW???

However, for such a design, it is required to foresee the size of the room in advance, strengthen the foundation and choose a design.

Among the modern materials that decide the question of how to wrap a metal chimney pipe in a bath, the following are offered on the market:

Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Folgoizol

It is a two-layer material consisting of a heat-insulating component and foil. Thanks to the reflective layer, the room does not cool down so quickly, because up to 90% of the heat is retained inside the bath, so this is a very high-quality insulator.

Folgoizol is highly environmentally friendly, because food thick foil is used as a raw material. Such material is not afraid of ultraviolet and strong temperature fluctuations - the operating range is from -65 ºС to +175 ºС. Therefore, it will be a completely worthy choice for wrapping a pipe in a bath.

Note that foil isol is often mounted not only around the chimney, but also on the walls and on the ceiling of the steam room. It serves for high-quality steam and waterproofing, and also warms the bath room well.

A sauna upholstered from the inside with foil insulation can be compared with a thermos according to the principle of operation. It heats up quickly and cools down very slowly.

Teploizol

One of the options for wrapping a pipe in a bath is thermal insulation. For the production of thermal insulation, polyethylene foam is used, hidden between two layers of foil, and the top layer of foil in the material is designed to protect the chimney from overheating.

Thermal insulation has appeared on the building materials market relatively recently. The thickness of such material ranges from 2-10 mm.

It is easy to manipulate with thermal insulation - you just need to wrap it around the chimney and secure it with metallic tape.

Sandwich pipe as a chimney

Recently, various manufacturers have begun to produce new safe sandwich pipes for baths and saunas. With such a design, there is no longer any need to worry about how to secure the pipe in the bath (for more details: “The advantages of the pipe for the sandwich bath when building a chimney”). The design of such pipes provides for quick and convenient assembly of sections inserted into each other. Moreover, it is optimal to use such pipes with an iron furnace.

The sandwich pipe is a multilayer structure, inside of which there is a stainless steel frame, then a mineral or basalt wool insulation is laid, and a galvanized casing is put on top. Thanks to this structure, soot does not accumulate inside the chimney, the outer layer of metal does not experience overheating, and the whole structure looks beautiful and concise.

However, we note that it is advisable to install sandwich pipes in dry saunas. But for traditional Russian baths with high humidity, you should choose slightly different options for thermal insulation.

The method of isolating the chimney in a Russian bath

If a heater is installed in the bath, then refractory bricks are used to build the chimney. It is able to stay warm for a long time.

When building a brick chimney, it is not worth saving, but it is advisable to approach this issue very responsibly, because its durability depends on the quality of the work performed.

In this case the best way how to isolate the pipe in the bath from the ceiling, roof and other roof elements, there will be a mount on these sheet metal surfaces.

In places where the chimney comes into contact with the roof and ceiling, the surfaces should be protected with asbestos sheets. On the walls near the pipe, you need to fix sheets of galvanized steel. Iron in this case is not advisable to use, since it is subject to corrosion. See also: "How to make a chimney in a bathhouse through a wall - device options."

Alternatively, a protective screen can be installed around the chimney, into which expanded clay is poured. It will serve as additional protection against ignition of all wooden surfaces baths, and also become a heat accumulator.

However, by insulating pipes alone, complete safety in the bath cannot be achieved. Similar actions must be performed with the oven, walls and ceiling.

Sauna stove insulation

Currently, baths often use simple metal stoves, which are sheathed with sheet metal on the sides and in the back, and are installed directly on the foundation. In order to keep the heat in the bath at long time and to give it presentability, the stove can be overlaid with red refractory bricks.

Currently, asbestos sheets are no longer used to insulate the stove, since when heated, it releases toxic substances.

It is advisable to use natural felt to insulate the oven. Although this material is quite expensive, it is an excellent insulator. In addition, when a spark hits, the felt does not flare up, but begins to smolder, so you will immediately notice the problem by the characteristic pungent odor.

When installing the stove on a wooden floor, you should first lay the felt in two layers, and then lay the brick in three rows. Sheet metal is mounted on the walls and floor around the furnace in pieces 50-70 cm high.

We hope that this article was able to answer the most common questions that beginner builders have. Recall that high-quality thermal insulation of the chimney, stove, as well as all surfaces of the bath will allow not only to keep warm longer, but also to protect yourself and your loved ones.

Protective materials for wooden structures
Furnace pipe insulation: thermal insulation
You can wrap the chimney with foil insulation
Help - sandwich pipes
Pipe insulation in a traditional Russian bath
Protecting the oven from fire

If you decide to build a bath, then do not forget about the high-quality insulation of the stove, chimney, walls and ceiling. Otherwise, you may have serious problems with the ignition of the ceiling of the building. Therefore, we will try to dwell in more detail on the topical problem today - do-it-yourself pipe insulation in the bath.

Protective materials for wooden structures

Due to the fact that the chimney and the furnace heat up quickly, a fire can occur. Moreover, according to tradition, wood is the material for the bath. Back in the old days, it was customary to insulate walls, ceilings, stoves, chimneys with an asbestos layer, clay and other available materials, which conduct heat energy poorly and are resistant to elevated temperatures.

So how to overlay the pipe from the stove today? Insulation of the chimney structure is necessary both for the purpose of fire safety and protection against condensate, so that cooling is slower and the smoke exhaust system lasts longer.

It is a mistake to think that a few metal sheets will be enough to isolate from fire, with which the ceiling around the chimney is upholstered.

How and with what to isolate the chimney pipe

After all, the metal also heats up quickly, so it will not protect against fire, and as a heat insulator it will also not work.

Red brick is not always needed for pipe lining, although it is endowed with excellent thermal insulation properties. The reason is that such a design is not suitable for every bath in design.

To better understand how to wrap a chimney pipe from fire, consider two options for insulating materials in the form:

Furnace pipe insulation: thermal insulation

This is a unique material, the structure of which includes foamed polyethylene, located between a pair of foil sheets. With the help of thermal insulation, you can qualitatively insulate the chimney, and on your own.

The thickness of the thermal insulation varies from 2 to 10 mm, and the thicker the material, the greater its resistance to high temperatures.

The top layer of foil serves reliable protection pipes from significant overheating. With the help of a wire or adhesive tape of a metal craftsman, a thermal insulation is attached, which is then wrapped around the chimney.

You can wrap the chimney with foil insulation

Modern material includes two layers: heat insulator and foil. The second - plays a reflective function and can save up to 90% of the thermal energy in the building. Folgoizol is a harmless material compared to other analogues, since compacted food acts as a foil. The material is resistant to ultraviolet and elevated temperatures within the range of -65 to +175 degrees Celsius, a good insulator.

Who still does not know how to insulate the chimney pipe in the sauna, we recommend covering the steam room ceiling, walls and chimney with foil insulation. As a result, you will get a room that is similar in design to a thermos. In the sauna, heat will remain, and the bath will quickly gain temperature, and then slowly cool down.

Help - sandwich pipes

For those who wish to equip a safe chimney in the bath, we suggest using a sandwich pipe. This design includes several sections that are easily placed into each other, i.e. looks like a layered cake.

Here are the main components of a sandwich pipe:

• stainless steel layer (inside);
• insulation in the form of basalt / mineral wool (in the middle);
• steel with zinc coating (outside).

This creative design represents the insulation of the chimney built into common system, and is designed to solve two problems simultaneously:

• protection against soot accumulation inside;
• maintaining the optimum outside temperature.

It is easy to assemble a sandwich pipe on your own and use it for a sauna with an iron stove or a bath. What to do if you built a Russian steam room with a brick stove? Below we will consider how to overlay the pipe in this situation in order to protect it from ignition.

Pipe insulation in a traditional Russian bath

At elevated temperatures, refractory red brick retains its operational properties, therefore, it is in demand when building a chimney in a bathhouse with a stone stove. In this case, you are guaranteed protection of the pipe from fire and long-term preservation of heat.

The service life of the structure depends on how competently the brick pipe is folded. Do not save on materials during the construction of the chimney, because. then the repair will cost you much more.

Let's take a closer look at how to isolate the pipe in the bath from the ceiling:

1. With the help of asbestos, overlay the outlet of the pipe on the ceiling and through the roof.
2. Using galvanized material, insulate the walls from the inside of the pipe. Standard iron sheets are completely unsuitable for this purpose due to their tendency to corrode.
3. Run a box around the pipe at the points of its passage through the ceiling.
4. Pour expanded clay inside the box to retain heat and protect wooden floors from ignition.

You professionally wrapped the pipe, but the work on arranging the chimney did not end there. The next step is to insulate the furnace, ceiling and walls of the bath.

Protecting the oven from fire

Modern metal stoves are mounted on a foundation, while sheathing with sheets of the same material at the back and side of the wall. If you yourself beat the furnace only with metal, then its appearance will not be very aesthetic. It is better to make the outer masonry with red brick, which isolates the stove from fire and retains heat in the bath.

Due to the fact that asbestos releases toxic substances at elevated temperatures, it is not recommended to use it in a steam room. Natural felt is considered harmless, which, moreover, is a good insulator. At a price, this material is more expensive than asbestos sheets, and when smoldering, it emits a specific smell (felt does not light up), which can be immediately felt.

If you intend to install the stove on a wooden floor, then first it is better to lay a felt material in a couple of layers, then lay out a brick in three rows. For walls and floors, it is advised to lay sheets of metal as an insulator, the height of which varies from 50 to 70 cm.

How to wrap a chimney pipe from fire

How to insulate the metal pipe of the chimney of the bath?

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How to sheathe the walls around the stove in the bath

Alexey777 Aug 30 2005 07:59:49	flat slate, asbestos (I really didn’t find it in the sheets, but it seems they should be), drywall, something else? metal stove.
A.Meshcheksky (Troitsk) Aug 30 2005 08:52:42	How far from the walls?
Alexey777 Aug 30 2005 09:04:02	on one side (side of the stove) over the entire height from the wall 20cm and on the front side of the stove in height from the middle to the top of the stove from the wall 5 cm.
YourOK (Moscow) Aug 30 2005 09:56:25	2Aleksey777: Slate can shoot, asbestos is harmful ... In my embrasure around Buleryan's firebox, it is lined with red brick, inside the steam room - half the height of the stove (up to the water tank), too, but facing. Joints with wood are filled with clay and clogged with casing. If the stones and / or the chimney are close to the wall, it - the wall - should be covered with some kind of sheet material so that there are no dark spots, I have a duralumin sheet folded in half. Well, at the top on the ceiling - too, as firefighters teach.
Romson (Saint Petersburg) Aug 30 2005 10:16:24	2Aleksey777: With such a small distance from the wall, it is necessary to make a heat-insulating sandwich. You can make it from a metal sheet, preferably from polished aluminum or stainless steel, they reflect heat well. It is done like this: cut a metal tube into pieces of 20 mm. These will be washers-gaskets under the sheets. Now from the wall insulation is basalt 20 mm. and a sheet on those washers, then an air gap and another sheet on the washers.
AA (Moscow) Aug 30 2005 10:18:13	It is also important to consider the design of the furnace. If the oven is a convection type, then it has double walls, and the temperature of the outer walls is low. If the stove is based on the principle of an ordinary potbelly stove, then the radiation from the walls is high, and serious protection is needed. Optimally (and beautifully) - a brick flat or "on edge" with an air gap from the furnace along the entire height. You can metal (better, but more expensive - stainless steel) with a gap from the combustible wall surface of at least 10 mm. Clearances are required at the bottom and top to ensure convection air flow. Galvanizing is not allowed - harmful. Cheap, but not so aesthetically pleasing - DSP sheet. Installation - similar to metal.
wiki Aug 30 2005 10:29:57	Is it necessary to lay basalt wool under the DSP sheet? (similar to a stainless steel sheet?)
YourOK (Moscow) Aug 30 2005 10:46:32	2Aleksey777: Ahh ... I thought that we were talking about sealing an opening in the wall through which the stove firebox goes into another room - how is it normally done ... Aleksey, you didn’t clearly describe the situation with the stove - its design and installation scheme are unclear, where are the gaps - it’s completely unclear: by the way, why is its “front side” facing the wall ?? Well, protecting the wall in the steam room is not the most difficult thing in this matter, the same sandwich if the brick does not fit ...
Alexey777 Aug 30 2005 10:54:16	thanks for the advice, I’ll do it with iron on the front, there, in principle, the heater is already on, the combustible surface is lower, and on the side of the brick to the wall to the middle, and from the middle, probably also with iron.
Alexey777 Aug 30 2005 11:00:49	2YourOK: the front side, which is above the firebox, it already goes to the wall, but what happens below the opening. In the figure, side A is the front, B is the side. picture
YourOK (Moscow) Aug 30 2005 11:22:09	2Aleksey777: Well, finally ... now it's clear :-)) Gap B = 20 cm IMHO is enough not to protect the wall. The main thing is to properly seal the opening. Once again - good luck!
AA (Moscow) Aug 30 2005 11:47:33	2WIK: “Is it necessary to lay basalt wool under the DSP sheet? (similar to a stainless steel sheet?)" No need. An air gap is needed so that air can circulate from bottom to top between the combustible surface and the protective sheet. Or you make a sandwich panel. Two sheets of metal or, for example, DSP, with basalt wool between them. (In the described case, I consider this a reinsurance.) But in this case, the gap between the panel and the wall is desirable. Safer, as constant cooling is ensured by circulating air. Cutting with filler (for example, basalt wool) is done where it is necessary to ensure the tightness of the structure: passages through the ceiling, walls, etc.
Romson (Saint Petersburg) Aug 30 2005 12:22:49	2AA: And I would lay it everywhere with cotton wool. Such matters are important that, I think, there is no point in saving on fire safety. At home, I sewed everything around the stove by 1 meter and two chimneys in width in height.
YourOK (Moscow) Aug 31 2005 11:30:34	2Romson: That's right ... in the attic near the pipe, I hope everything is OK too? PS a fire is a terrible thing ... last week they extinguished the hozblok at a neighbor's dacha ... they didn’t extinguish it at all - it was already impossible, it burned so much that it was already pointless to water, and it’s impossible to come close to throw a bucket of water - it’s hot ... they just watered the wall of his house so as not to catch fire, because he has a hozblok just 2 m from the house ... So it's better to be safe than not...
AA (Moscow) Aug 31 2005 16:43:42	2Romson, 2YourOK: No one argues about security. I insisted on providing an air gap for free air circulation. This is noticeably more efficient than just a thick enclosing structure, and it also saves space. If there is no air gap, then the furnace gradually heats up the closely spaced wall with radiant heat, and we simply do not know what is happening in the depths. In addition, such a design retains heat for a long time, and the risk of fire depends on two conditions: temperature and exposure time. I already wrote in this forum (though they did not agree with me) that there are cases of so-called spontaneous combustion with prolonged exposure to a temperature of only 100 degrees. This scientific fact. And this is possible if heat is not removed from the heated object.
Romson (Saint Petersburg) Aug 31 2005 18:31:00	2АА: Read carefully: “Now 20 mm basalt insulation from the wall. and a sheet on those washers, then an air gap and another sheet on the washers."
Serg (Samara, Russia) Aug 31 2005 22:01:42	2AA: > known cases of so-called spontaneous combustion with prolonged exposure to a temperature of only 100 degrees. This is a scientific fact. So what to do? Best regards, Sergei
AA (Moscow) 1 Sep. 2005 10:51:25	2serg: > There are known cases of so-called spontaneous combustion of people - the object is basically non-combustible - too wet, the temperature is ~ 37 degrees. scientific fact. So what to do? Drink more raspberry tea or an aspirin. But more often they burn out at a temperature equal to 40 degrees :-)) 2Romson: Pay attention to pucks. I just wrote about reasonable sufficiency under the conditions that were given. I mean the side wall. And if the metal furnace does not have a protective convection screen (double walls), then the side protection must be made of two sheets with gaps both between them and from the wall and from the furnace. From the side of the furnace, of course, it is better to make part of the wall (along the height of the furnace) from non-combustible material. And then, without knowing all the conditions, it is difficult to draw an unambiguous conclusion. We offer options - the owner makes the decision.
wiki 1 Sep. 2005 12:09:23	Are two sheets with basalt wool (asbestos sheet) enough, or do you need brick protection on the side?
AA (Moscow) 1 Sep. 2005 13:21:42	2WIK: Describe the installation conditions, oven type, wall material. You have to come from this. If the stove is factory-made, then the instructions should indicate the minimum distances to combustible structures. But they are usually stupidly taken from SNIPs without taking into account all the listed conditions, and they can be reduced by using fireproof cuts. Read again all of the above and make a decision, given that there is no little protection for a restful sleep.
AA (Moscow) 1 Sep. 2005 13:34:25	SNIP http://www.rusbani.ru/snip/2_04_05_91.html
petr78 (Moscow) Sep 20 2005 21:10:56	dear! I have a wall made of timber in my bathhouse, an iron stove is located at a distance of 30 cm. to protect against fire, I want to break through the wall a metal sheet, then with a gap of 10-15 mm, lay a facing brick (half a brick thick). question: is this enough to protect the timber wall from fire?
YourOK (Moscow) 21 Sep. 2005 10:42:26	2petr78: Does the stove have a double wall? gets very hot - red hot? At first glance - sheet + brick = bust ... If it heats up slightly (already drowned?) - below 100 gr. - then one sheet, but with an air gap of 2-3 cm from the tree, will be enough. Although your 30 cm is quite enough to do nothing at all - you will see over time, if anything - take an extra. measures. It has already been discussed here above - read it. A brick - for beauty? Maybe nothing will happen - if the stove itself (Buleryan?) is also overlaid about 0.5 meters from the floor, with a gap of 1-2 cm from the iron - there will be less IR radiation and so that its crooked legs are not visible - up to the hot water tank ... But then the sheet is useless. Only here with the firebox it is not clear - where does it go? Basically, there are problems with her when she goes through the wall into the adjoining room ...