In order for the hedge to please the eye with its fresh green and neat appearance, it is necessary to regularly cut it. Haircut not only gives the hedge a neat decorative look, but also contributes to the formation of a denser crown, increased growth of lateral branches and leaves of plants.
Newly planted hedges from young plants in the first two years need a single annual shearing, which is carried out in early spring or late autumn.
In the future, the number of haircuts per season can be increased, if necessary, up to 2-3 times a year.
Many plants require two haircuts per season: the first - in July or August, the second - in October-March.
Branches growing to the sides are sheared strongly, and growing upwards - weakly. When the hedges reach the required height, the upper part is also heavily pruned. This group includes some barberries, beech, all types and varieties of cotoneaster, some types of cypress, Japanese euonymus, junipers, pyrocantha, rosemary, snowberry, tamarix, all types of arborvitae, yew. 
Cut the hedges, starting from the base and moving up. The blade of the scissors is held obliquely to the bush so that the plants descend to the top of the cone. With a hedge height of more than 1.5 m, you need to use a stand, since it is very difficult to cut with raised hands.
During flowering, plants do not cut. 
Pruning requires a firm hand and a sharply sharpened tool - then the cuts will be even and smooth, and will be able to quickly overgrow. It is better to cut hedges and borders with special garden scissors with long blades and long handles; secateurs are used to trim dry branches. 
Trimming must be carried out along a tightly stretched cord, otherwise gaps, too deep cuttings or irregularities cannot be avoided. Sometimes branches too thick come across in the plane of the haircut so as not to spoil the scissors, in this case it is better to use a garden file or pruner. 
The first stage - pruning plants
Plants with a poorly formed crown are cut to half the length. The branches of well-formed mature plants are cut by a third. Such pruning is done the next season after planting. So, if the plants were planted in the spring, then the first pruning is carried out in the fall. 
The second stage - the formation of a hedge
The goal of shaping is to give the hedge the desired profile and increase the density of the branches. Often, when cutting a hedge, they strive to give it a regular rectangular cut shape with flat tops and sides. In this case, it is desirable that the height of the hedge be much greater than the width, otherwise the lower shoots lack light, become bare and die. The most natural forms of shearing are rounded or trapezoidal profiles with a wider base at the bottom, then all the shoots of the plant develop in good light conditions and the hedge retains a beautiful well-groomed appearance for a long time. 
The first formative cutting of a deciduous hedge is carried out in the second year after planting. In young plants, no more than a third of the annual growth of shoots is cut off; in mature plants, the growth rate of shoots is lower, so the branches are cut off to half of the growth. Unnecessary length is removed by making an oblique cut over a well-developed kidney. Proper shearing stimulates the growth of new branches with larger leaves.
When forming rectangular shapes, the branches on the sides of the hedge should be cut deeper than at the top. It is very important to carry out sanitary pruning in a timely manner - cut dry old weak branches, as well as shoots affected by pests.
If the fence has lost its decorative effect, measures are taken to rejuvenate it. In this case, a rejuvenating haircut is carried out, which includes two stages: the first year, a deep haircut is carried out only on one side, retreating 10 cm from the trunk, in the second year, a deep haircut is carried out on the opposite side.
The main care event ground part hedges
- haircut (for molded hedges),
- pruning (for free-growing).
Shearing molded hedges
Shearing is done to enhance the growth of lateral shoots, increase the density of the crown, to obtain the correct profile of the hedge.
Deciduous hedges should be trimmed as early as the first year after planting. If poorly formed plants with an open root system were planted, they are cut to ½ length, more formed container plants - to a third. At autumn planting such pruning is carried out in the spring, with spring pruning - in the early spring of the next year. Thanks to this pruning, a denser base of the hedge is formed.
Next comes the molding stage, the purpose of which is to increase the density of the branches and create the contours of the hedge. The first haircut is carried out in the second year after planting, then it should be carried out annually: for a young hedge - once a year in early spring or late autumn, in the future - up to 2-3 times (in spring, in July and autumn). For fast growing plants(plums, hawthorns) multiple shearings are carried out during the summer from May to October - as the shoots grow, with the loss of clarity of the hedge lines. Less often (twice per season - in July-August and in October) it is required to cut barberries, cotoneasters, snow berries.
The depth of cutting increases as the growth and age of the hedge increase: in young plants, no more than 1/3 of the annual growth is cut. With age, when shoot growth weakens, they can be shortened to half. Such pruning stimulates branching, an increase in leaf blades. As the hedge approaches a given height, the cutting can be even deeper, up to leaving 1-2 cm high stumps from the annual growth. reached the desired height. Then it remains only to regularly trim the hedge from above and from the sides.
Once the desired height is reached, constant top cutting is necessary to maintain the shape of the hedge. If its shape is rectangular or trapezoidal, even a small regrowth of shoots can ruin the profile of the hedge, so very frequent haircuts are required. In rounded or triangular hedges, the unevenness of the growing shoots is less noticeable and the haircut is not so laborious.
A typical mistake is insufficient cutting depth of the hedge, when only the ends of the shoots are cut. In this case, after a few years, the hedge loosens, sags and loses its decorative effect. To prevent this from happening, you need to keep the form as close as possible to last year. It is necessary to cut more deeply from the sides so that in the profile the height significantly exceeds the width, and does not gradually approach the square. As a result of improper shearing, lighting conditions worsen, the bottom of the hedge is ugly exposed, many dry branches appear, and density decreases. To resuscitate a neglected hedge, it is recommended to cut it to 1/4-1/2 of its height and width, or even cut it into a stump to cause intensive growth of new shoots.
A rejuvenating haircut is applied not only to neglected hedges, but also if they lose their decorative and protective properties. It is preferable to carry out rejuvenation in two stages: in the first year, only one side is cut, cutting branches at a distance of 10 cm from the trunk, the second is cut as usual. On the next year rejuvenate the other side. In urgent cases, rejuvenation is performed simultaneously on both sides.
The cut should be oblique over a well-developed healthy bud, directed to the periphery of the bush, which is especially important when forming a young hedge.
After shearing, plants need to create conditions for quick recovery: water abundantly, fertilize, mulch the soil with bark, wood chips, peat, compost, or at least mowed grass.
The cutting tool can be electric (brush cutter, electric shears, chainsaw), although it is better, especially for young hedges, to use hand tool- secateurs or garden shears, which spoil the leaves less and allow you to more carefully form a hedge. A haircut can be done on stretched cords, but it is most convenient to use a wire frame painted in a bright color. The cutting height is increased annually by 4-6 cm until the desired level is reached.
Pruning free-growing hedges
It is wrong to assume that free-growing hedges do not require trimming and care. Of course, you don't need to cut often, but yearly pruning to create a lush, healthy hedge is a must. Planted plants are heavily pruned, as in the case of molded hedges, in early spring of the following year.
Further, depending on the tasks, the following types of trimming are carried out:
Formative is aimed at creating a crown of a certain shape and density of saturation with both perennial (skeletal) and temporary overgrowing branches.
Held from mid-February to March (for conditions middle lane Russia).
Supportive or Regulatory is aimed at maintaining the parameters of the crown, optimal illumination of all its sections, the most favorable ratio between growth, flowering and fruiting.
Anti-aging is aimed at stimulating the formation of new shoots in aging and old plants.
Restorative It is aimed at restoring the ability to grow, bloom, bear fruit in plants that have been neglected or have suffered from adverse conditions.
The last two types of pruning can be carried out from mid-February to mid-April or in August - September, after the completion of shoot growth.
Sanitary aims to remove faded inflorescences, dead, diseased, damaged and intersecting branches to maintain a neat and balanced plant shape. It can be carried out throughout the year, with the exception of the period of the winter months (due to the danger of desiccation and the negative impact on cuts of low temperatures) and the period of sap flow (when abundant secretion of sap from the surface of cuts can lead to weakening and even death of the plant).
Timely removal of dry, old, weak branches thickening the crown is especially important for flowering and fruiting plants. Pruning is carried out taking into account their biological characteristics:
Blooming on the shoots of the current year, usually in summer or autumn (roses, some spireas, derains, skumpii, five-leaf springs, elderberry, fieldfare) are pruned before flowering, in early spring, or autumn. Some plants can be cut very heavily (tree hydrangea, amorphous, willow-leaved spirea), they will still bloom, but, for example, wild roses should not be cut so much.
Blooming on last year's shoots, as a rule, in spring (chaenomeles, hawthorn, cherry, apple tree, forsythia, barberries, some spireas, lilacs, common viburnum, mock orange, weigels) are pruned after flowering. Faded inflorescences are cut off with part of the shoot, after which the young shoots have time to grow and lay flower buds for flowering next year.
Decorative leafy plants(variegated, purple-leaved, yellow-leaved) are pruned to increase crown density and maintain its shape. After partial pruning of the shoots, the period of which is not so important, an additional number of shoots develops, the leaves become larger, juicy and decorative.
Cut branches and leaves can be a source of diseases and pests, so they cannot be composted, but must be carefully collected and burned.
20 minutes after pruning, thick sections should be treated with garden putty, pitch, Rannet paste, Bordeaux ointment (prepared from Bordeaux mixture - blue vitriol and quicklime 1:1, mixed with sunflower oil to a dry paste consistency) or at least thick oil paint, divorced in sunflower oil(except for zinc white and cinnabar).
Based on books:
Uleiskaya L.I., Komar-Demnaya L.D., "Hedges", M., 2002
Sapelin A.Yu. , "Hedges" - M., 2007
— decoration of any site. However, such an ornament requires regular maintenance of its appearance, that is, cutting a hedge is a systematic and mandatory operation for every gardener. It is necessary not only to maintain the shape of the crown of the shrub, but also for the best growth and health of the plant. Therefore, every amateur gardener should be able to do it with his own hands, and even more so a professional.
Hedge trimming depends on the age and type of plant, the season, and many other factors.
Let us dwell on the fundamental ones: you can cut it only then and only in such a way that it does not interfere with flowering, does not expose the lower part of the structure and does not spoil the shape of the leaves. These are the main criteria that apply to absolutely all structures and which should not be violated, otherwise plant health may be in jeopardy.
Live fencing can be sheared and unformed (free-growing). In addition, there are fences and height:
- low (the so-called borders, up to 0.5 m high);
- medium (0.5-1 m);
- high (1-2 m);
- walls (over 2 m).
In a free-growing fence, the natural features of plants are preserved in their natural form. The formed hedge is devoid of the individuality of each individual element, all the plants in it are clipped of a certain, not natural and natural, but geometric or other shape. A living fence can consist of both deciduous and coniferous species. In each case, the haircut has its own characteristics. The tool for cutting, depending on the length, height, age and composition of the hedge, can be:
The scheme of cutting hedge shrubs: a, b, c - correct; d, d - incorrect.
- secateurs;
- special scissors;
- brush cutter;
- chainsaw.
Secateurs and clippers are best for young small hedges, as they cause less damage to plants and provide thoroughness. More mature or longer fences are cut with electric shears, brush cutters, chainsaws. In this case, it is important that the blades are evenly and well sharpened, otherwise you can injure and split the ends of the branches. To make it even, the haircut is carried out along a stretched cord or a special frame made of brightly colored wire.
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Stages of cutting branches
Newly planted hedges from young plants should be cut every year. Usually shearing is carried out in early spring or late autumn. In the future, depending on the actual need, the number of haircuts will be increased to 2-3 times a year. The first pruning usually occurs the next season after planting. But if the plants were planted in the spring, you can cut them already at the end of autumn. Haircut steps:
- pruning plants;
- hedge formation.
A poorly formed crown in plants is cut to half the length. If the branches of mature plants are well formed, then a third of their length is cut off. The incision is made oblique, preferably over a formed bud in mature plants. It is inappropriate to pity the plants in this case, since insufficient pruning of branches is fraught with the possibility of thinning thickets, exposing individual sections of the fence, and inaccurate growth. Only pruning on a stump and years of waiting will help correct such blunders. Therefore, you need to cut the hedge boldly, confidently, without fear, but also without fanaticism. Proper pruning will provide dense growth of vegetation and larger foliage that will reliably protect your household plot from the wind, prying eyes, dogs and strangers. Overcoming a well-formed hedge is almost impossible without special tools.
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Formation of a living fence
When the branches are shortened, it's time to start shaping - giving a hedge desired profile and increase the density of branches. Most often, it is a regular rectangular shape with flat tops and sides. The fact is that this form is the simplest, even a novice gardener can form it. It is easy to maintain and care for and is optimal for high wall growth. The only caveat for rectangular shape there is a recommendation that the height of the fence significantly exceed the width. This is necessary so that the lower shoots do not lack sunlight and do not die off. Also, the branches from the sides need to be cut more deeply than the branches at the top.
Other popular haircuts are trapezoidal or round, where the base of the bush is much wider than the top. This allows plants at all levels of the hedge to receive sunlight and actively develop, keeping a beautiful and well-groomed garden for a long time. appearance. For mature plants, a timely haircut is needed not only for decorative and preventive purposes, but also for sanitary purposes. Pruning old and weak, dry or pest-infested branches helps keep the entire fence healthy.
A haircut is also useful as a rejuvenating agent if the hedge has lost its decorative effect. In this case, circumcision is carried out in two stages: in the first year, deep cutting is done only on one side of the hedge at a distance of 10 cm from the trunk, the other side should be cut the next year. After any haircut, sanitary, anti-aging or annual, it is recommended to water the hedge abundantly, fertilize and cover the soil under it with peat, mowed grass or tree bark. This will contribute to a faster recovery of plants, their good nutrition and growth. When the hedge is fully formed in height and shape, it has to be cut much more often, since even a slight regrowth of branches spoils the profile of the hedge.
You can cut the hedge using stretched wire cords to hold the shape as much as possible. However, special frames are much more convenient. For a formed hedge, the correct observance of the form is extremely important. Typically, the cutting height is increased by 4-6 cm annually until the desired height level is reached. All of the above recommendations are general character, however, individual breeds have their own haircut nuances.
Development suburban area usually begins with the designation of its boundaries. Many people surround the estate with high blank fences, but there is another way to isolate oneself from the street - this is a hedge of clipped or free-growing shrubs!
Hedges improve the microclimate of the site. A wall of shrubs will quite effectively protect the estate from the winds, but, being permeable to air movement, it will not create pressure drops and air funnels that are detrimental to plants, which usually form near solid fences. The roots of plants, unlike the foundations of fences, do not interfere with the outflow ground water. Dense tall hedges provide good protection from noise, serve as a reliable barrier to dust and exhaust gases near busy highways. thick wall of thorny plants- an almost insurmountable obstacle for unauthorized persons trying to get into the fenced area.
There are two types of hedges - molded and unshaped. In the first case, the plants are regularly pruned to give them a certain shape, in the second, they do without a haircut, allowing the seedlings to develop freely. The second option is less labor intensive. A dense untrimmed hedge 2 m high can be grown in 2-4 years, while the creation of a molded hedge of the same height will take at least 4-6 years. Alas, an unshaped hedge takes up a lot of space (the width can reach 4 m) and is contraindicated for small areas. The molded hedge is compact (no more than 1 m wide) and is suitable for any site. Both types of hedges require pruning in the first years after planting.
On a note
Planting a hedge will cost a lot less than building a solid fence. Especially if you choose plants that you can propagate yourself rather than buy at a garden center.
When to plant?
Container-grown deciduous hedges can be planted throughout the season from spring to fall.
Plants with an open root system, that is, those grown in the nursery in the ground and then dug up for sale, are planted only when they do not have leaves - either in October, when the leaves have already fallen, or in early spring, before they start swell buds. On heavy and wet soils the best time for planting - spring.
Conifers and evergreen deciduous shrubs are sensitive to desiccation, so these plants should be purchased with a closed root system and planted with an undisturbed clod of earth. It is best to do this in September or in the spring - from the moment when the buds begin to swell, until the end of May.
How to plant?
For unshaped hedges, as well as for photophilous and coniferous plants(spruce, thuja, junipers) planting seedlings in one row is suitable. But such a fence does not always form a dense curtain. For hedges that will be pruned extensively, as well as those that should form a solid barrier, planting in two rows is recommended.
If you intend to plant plants densely, it will be more convenient to immediately dig one or two ditches along the cord. In a single-row hedge, plants are planted, observing the same distance between seedlings (about 20-50 cm), in double-row hedges - in a checkerboard pattern. Part of the barren earth taken out of the pit is removed. The rest is mixed with compost or quick peat and returned back, poured along the entire ditch.
If the gaps between the plants should be large - 60-70 cm - it is better to plant them in separate holes, rather than dig a ditch. In this case, the pits should be so large that the roots lie freely in them and are not bent up or to the sides.
Why do you need pruning after planting?
The first pruning is done regardless of whether the hedge should be molded or not.
This procedure is very important, because it depends on it whether the plants take root or not, and how the hedge will look in the future. The first shearing stimulates the growth of new shoots and promotes the development of the plant's root system. Plants planted in spring and shedding leaves for the winter are pruned immediately after planting; and those planted in the fall are left uncircumcised for the winter, postponing this procedure until next spring. In the spring, to stimulate branching, the tops of the shoots are cut first. In general, the depth of pruning depends on the type of plant and its condition, usually shrubs and hardwoods are pruned 30-40 cm from
On a note
Cutting a hedge regularly is necessary not only to make it look beautiful. Thanks to this procedure, the plants will be healthy, and the hedge will be evenly thick and lush.
In order for a hedge to be healthy, thick and look good, it needs to be cut regularly. A hedge consisting of deciduous plants shedding leaves for the winter is pruned at least twice a year. The first time - at the turn of June and July: at this time, the shoots are cut to half their length. The second pruning is performed in late August - early autumn, shortening all fresh shoots to a length of 10 cm.
An unformed hedge does not require regular pruning: it is enough to cut it only once a year - in early spring. At this time, the hedge is thinned out, cutting out all the old branches near the ground, and the young ones are shortened by 2/3 of their length. The shape of the hedge will not change from this, but it will become thicker.
A hedge of coniferous plants does not need to be trimmed during the growth process. But if the plants grow weakly, then once a year (in July - early August) they can be carefully trimmed by cutting off the tops of the plants by 10 cm (side shoots are shortened a little more).
How to cut an adult hedge?
Molded hardwood hedges that have reached the expected size are cut regularly, and if growth is strong, even once a month. This will allow the hedge to maintain the correct geometric shape and look well-groomed.
Molded coniferous hedges are usually sheared at least twice a year - preferably in July and early August. The exception is spruce hedges, which can only be pruned once a year, preferably in late spring when the plants are putting out young shoots.
An unformed hedge does not need regular trimming. Columnar plants are not pruned at all. The exception is when they begin to thin out from below. Then you should cut all the upper shoots and some side shoots.
In deciduous hedges, it is useful to thin out the crowns of plants every few years (in the spring before the buds appear). Most of the old and thick shoots are removed, and the young ones are cut to 2/3 of their length.
How to get a haircut?
First set the level of the upper plane. This is easily done with a cord stretched between stakes driven into the ground. Another option is to attach a long horizontal bar to the vertical pegs. The upper part of the hedge is cut horizontally, moving along the cord or plank. Moreover, for beginners, a bar is preferable, since it can be used as a guide without the risk of being cut with a sharp tool. Then the side walls are cut in turn, removing all the branches that have grown beyond the established line.
Our advice
A heavily mowed hedge should be systematically fertilized with compost or multi-component mineral fertilizers.
Best Plants
Spirea
A fast-growing hedge 1-1.2 m high can be obtained from spirea. The shrub is easy to propagate with your own hands. The hedge is winter-hardy and drought-resistant, the shrub does not get sick with anything, it looks beautiful both in summer and in autumn. However, it grows very fast. To make the shrub look neat, it needs a regular haircut, the frequency of which depends on the variety. With an irregular haircut, the lower part of the bush is exposed and looks sloppy.
Cotoneaster
A very profitable option for a green hedge, since the plant tolerates a haircut well and “keeps its shape” for a long time. The shrub is resistant to adverse growing conditions, well adapted to harsh climatic conditions. Bushes reluctantly, so it is better not to count on a quick result. Cotoneaster can be used in regular style gardens.
cotoneaster hedge thuja
With proper care, thuja hedges retain an attractive appearance. all year round. From thuja you can create a high and extremely dense green wall. The tree is shade-tolerant, frost-resistant and not very demanding on moisture and soil. For hedges, it is better to choose pyramidal thuja varieties, for example, the columnar varieties of western thuja "Brabant", "Smaragd" and "Fastigiata".
vesicle
A vigorous shrub that forms a dense hedge. Easily propagated by cuttings, grows quickly (40 cm wide and 40 cm high per year). Differs in unpretentiousness - frost-resistant, drought-resistant, can grow in shaded places, does not get sick. There are several showy cultivars with leaves ranging in color from golden to purple. The shrub takes up a lot of space, so you should not plant it on small plot.
Snowberry
Perhaps the most unpretentious shrub for hedges in our climate. Suitable for creating low hedges (up to 1 m). It will feel good even on a site with high ground standing. It is practically not damaged by diseases and pests. It tolerates pruning and shaping. Increased resistance to gas and smoke allows the use of the snowberry to separate the car park from front areas and recreation areas.
Barberry
Perfect for creating an impenetrable and impenetrable hedge, you just need to choose tall varieties (for example, the Ottawa barberry ‘Superba’ grows up to 3.5 m tall). Lot unpretentious varieties with beautiful foliage of different shades. One of the species - Thunberg's barberry - blooms and bears fruit in a haircut. Barberries absolutely cannot stand waterlogging and stagnant water.
Video: How to grow a hedge in the country?
hedge trimming is a procedure that has a decisive influence on its formation and the desired shape. To make a fence made of live plants look well-groomed, you need to know the secrets proper care behind this element of the landscape.
For this it is necessary understand: how to choose the best date for pruning hedges, how to properly prune bushes so that new branches grow quickly, and the hedge itself is dense and healthy. You also need to understand the difference between pruning softwood and hardwood, as well as what tools to choose for comfortable pruning.
planning arranging a hedge to protect your site from prying eyes, noise and a busy street, or to mask any places in the garden, such as a composter pit or garbage container, it is worth considering the care of the future hedge.
And for that to hedge coped with the protective and decorative function at the same time, it is necessary to fulfill the requirements for the systematic care of it if we want to get a great-looking fit.
When to cut a fence?
After planting bushes for hedges, many beginners are confused as to when and how to start the first pruning?
The first thing need to remember: do not be afraid of cropping. If done correctly, the plants will respond with rapid growth and lush branching.
But for this effect hedge should be pruned regularly. Otherwise, some species will lose their shape, which will worsen their decorative effect.
There are bushes, which can forgive the forgetfulness of gardeners, but there are those that immediately react to the lack of formative pruning. These species include evergreens, such as arborvitae or cypresses. If their crown is not formed even within one season, this will lead to excessive growth of new shoots in width and the inability to restore the previous shape.
Why is this happening? Timely pruning allows shrubs to form new growth points. In the absence of such a procedure, the woody parts of the bushes cannot independently form new growth buds, thanks to which the plant would create more branches and restore its original shape. At the same time, too much pruning can harm the plants, so you need to carefully monitor this event.
This rule does not apply to yew. This type of conifer is perfectly restored even after very strong pruning, restoring its shape after a season. It usually looks even better after a heavy pruning than before. This is due to the presence a large number dormant buds on the branches of the plant, which are quickly activated when necessary.
First shaping pruning should be carried out in the spring, when the danger of more severe frosts. Young plants are cut at a height of 20-30 cm from the soil surface, regardless of whether it will be part of the hedge or just shrubs that grow in the garden area.
Such a procedure will to thickening the bushes from the very base, so that the future hedge will receive a beautiful, compact structure throughout its height.
Next trim hedges should be carried out at least once a year, resulting in a new growth of 2 to 30 cm, depending on what type of hedge we grow and how many seasons we are going to devote to its formation.
The best time for pruning March-April, when the plants are just starting to grow, and the weather is warm and sunny. This time is best for shaping activities, as it promotes rapid healing of wounds after pruning, which is especially important if we want to avoid possible fight with fungal diseases.
During the season additional pruning can be carried out especially for fast-growing shrubs. The last pruning should, however, take place no later than the first decade of August, so that new shoots can become woody before winter. Otherwise, there is a high probability of freezing of the highest parts of the hedge.
Hedge Trimming Techniques
Regardless depending on what types of plants create a hedge, you should always start trimming the bushes on the sides. To make the pruning line as straight as possible, you must first align the side branches parallel with the topmost shoots, and then remove the extended branches in height so that they create one even plane.
If you use electric scissors, then the direction of movement should go from bottom to top, removing fragments of protruding side shoots, and then make a second pass to align the branches at the same level.
When work with the side parts finished, start trimming the top (the so-called ridge). You need to do this, holding the scissors horizontally, performing half-turns to the right and left with the torso.
Such an action will provide more uniform cut lines in the event of movement of the power tool. This will greatly facilitate any correction and prevent significant deviations in the plane of the cut.
At the end you need check the result of your work for the correspondence of the corners of the fence to what they should be. Align them if necessary. All cut branches and shoots are removed after pruning.
wood material can be reused as organic fertilizer by sending them to compost pit, previously crushed in a crusher.
After forming trim you can apply a multi-component fertilizer with a high nitrogen content and monitor the sufficient level of humidity around the bushes. This will lead to rapid growth of new shoots and an overall improvement in the condition of the hedge.
Coniferous trees need more careful pruning, because not all coniferous trees tolerate pruning well. For these breeds, the appropriate pruning date is very important.
For hedges, the first pruning is important the following year after planting in order to strengthen the root system.
Correct hedge structure
Correctly selected hedge shape is essential. There are plants for which it is important to maintain a certain shape, which improves the general condition of the plants and depends on the growing position.
In places, heavily shaded, it is worth making sure that the fence has a trapezoidal cross-section.
Main benefits of this form is the uniform access of light to all tiers, which leads to uniform coloring of the leaves along the entire height of the side wall and its even growth.
Care in this case is to trim the side shoots of the plant regularly to keep the hedge in its proper shape.
If we want to have a fence with such a section, more than 3 meters high, then we need to choose a yew or an elm for this purpose.
In order to get hedge free-form, you can plant privet, barberry or even cherry laurel, but at the same time it is worth forming a crest of such a planting in the shape of an arch.
This form will do softer and softer, and the appearance of the garden, surrounded by such a hedge, will change significantly. This landing also needs to be extended slightly closer to the ground for the reasons mentioned earlier.
Formation of an arched shape in this case it takes a little more practice. But to make this event much easier, you can use a trimming form in the form of a light frame of arcuate polypropylene pipes, covered with a grid, which will be the defining plane for the slice level.
This method has been tested and has been practiced over the years by a large group of gardeners with a passion for both low and high hedge design. In the same way, rose gardens can be formed, which consist of bush or park roses.
Using Templates you can successfully create not only hedges, but also cut individual bushes, creating garden architecture.
Hedge Trimming Tools
During hedge care you need to choose the right tools for pruning. When cutting low hedges, consisting of perennial shrubs with thin branches, you can use garden shears, secateurs.
For sanitary pruning it is enough to use delimbers. And if the shrubs have thicker and lignified shoots, then garden pruners will help us cut dry or healthy branches at the base of the trunk. Except mechanical tools electric ones can also be used. Properly selected power tools will provide us with professional, fast and flawless pruning.
For shaping trim hedges, we need secateurs and garden shears.
Secateurs these are the most popular and sought-after tools that cut trees and shrubs. With secateurs you can:
- form a crown;
- remove dried branches and branches with a diameter of 20 mm to 25 mm;
- cut "wen" (unfruitful branches).
There are two types of secateurs on the market:
- with double-sided sharpening of blades;
- with one-sided sharpening of the blades, which is otherwise called bypass.
These secateurs differ in that a tool with double-sided sharpening is suitable for removing dry branches. And bypass secateurs are more suitable for caring for live branches.
Bilateral secateurs, make a severely traumatic cut. Their next disadvantage is the presence of the so-called anvil, in which the blade rests during operation, which limits the ability to get close to the base of the branch.
But these secateurs do not jam during operation, which is important for processing large areas.
Bypass secateurs have rounded blades that taper at the end. One blade serves as a support, the second - as a worker.
To make the cut neat and even, the tool is placed with the support blade down, and the worker up to that part of the trunk where the branch is removed.
Bypass secateurs divided by type:
- with a stepped mechanism (which allows you to remove thick shoots up to 25 mm);
- with conventional fastening (when a branch is cut in one grip of the handles);
- on a tape spring (more reliable);
- on a helical spring.
Gardening scissors is another tool that gardeners use, but they are not suitable for pruning trees. Garden shears are used purposefully for the formation of hedges, separately growing bushes in landscape gardening architecture, low conifers. Garden shears are the main tool in topiary art.
Outwardly and in principle Scissors work like a classic tool, but have long sharpened blades and the same handles. When working with them, both hands are always involved. Garden shears are suitable for cutting branches, leaves, needles.
Gardening scissors divided according to the classification of work performed:
- for the formation of a hedge from coniferous or deciduous species;
- for trimming conifers (use wavy blades, for improved fixation of needles);
- for curly cutting herbaceous plants;
- for use in hard-to-reach places where the lawnmower does not fit.
Gardening scissors are mechanical or electrical. When choosing this tool, you need to pay attention to:
- blade quality;
- sharpening;
- a gap between them (ideally, it should not be);
- convenience of handles;
- operating time (if the tool is powered by batteries);
- manufacturer's brand.
And for those who want to know more, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the video on pruning hedges
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