Planing with a hand planer. Planing with a hand planer Electric planer smooth surface when planing

Many beginners are interested in the question of how to work with an electric planer. At first glance, there is nothing complicated: plug it into an outlet, press a button, drive back and forth along the surface, removing chips. However, at the first attempts, the result is far from always impressive.

When buying a tool, you need to check its performance, completeness and appearance. It is worth paying attention to the quality of sharpening the installed knives. If there are spare knives in the kit, you need to check them too. The cutting edge should be smooth, sharp, without potholes and bends. All other settings must be checked at home in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

Checking and adjusting the position of the front plate

All tool adjustments must be made in the off state. The plug must be pulled out of the socket, otherwise you can not only disable the electric planer, but also cause serious injury.

When checking the position of the knives, the front plate must be set to the position of the minimum planing depth with the standard adjustment knob. Set the electric planer on a flat hard surface with the drum up.

To check, you can use a metal ruler or a piece window glass suitable sizes. The drum with knives should be rotated until one of the knives is in the upper position, above the axis of the drum. The ruler or glass must be laid on the plates along the planer. The surfaces must be in the same plane.

If the control device is tilted on any of the plates, check the position of the front plate and adjust it. Such a defect occurs during prolonged use of the tool without Maintenance. Internal cavities can become clogged with wood dust and small chips. Excessive force on the depth adjustment knob will move it out of its original position.

To eliminate the defect, you need to remove the handle, front plate, clean the cavities from dust and chips, and lubricate. Install the plate in place, check the installation on the ruler, fix the handle, checking the coincidence of the dial with the index mark.

Cutting edge adjustment

Adjusting the position of the knives is carried out according to two parameters:

• height of the cutting edge relative to the back plate;
• the size of the protruding part of the knife for planing quarters.

Having installed a ruler or glass, you need to turn the drum, controlling the gap between the knife and the fixture along the edges of the plates. The edge of the knife should lightly touch the fixture without lifting it. If the knife clings to the fixture or does not reach it, the position must be corrected.

Usually the knives are fastened with a special wedge with expanding bolts. With a key of 8 or 10, you need to wrap the bolts in a wedge until the bolt free play appears. Then, with the installed eccentrics, align the height of the cutting edge with the fixture. Tighten (unscrew) the fixing bolts, check the position again. The desired result can be achieved after several repetitions of this operation.

At the same time as adjusting the height of the cutting edge, the protruding part of the quartering knife must be controlled. Optimal size must be specified in the manufacturer's instructions. On most models, it is 1 mm. The size is set by moving the knife to the left or right along the axis of the drum. It is important to set the size correctly. It should be the same for all knives. This can be achieved by using a feeler gauge of a certain size or by measuring the distance with a caliper (columb with a protruding back) from the edge of the knife to the drum. After adjusting the first knife, you need to move on to the next ones. The operation for all knives is carried out in the same way. If some knife cannot be set in the required position, you need to remove the wedge, check the eccentrics for integrity and free rotation.

It is necessary to complete the adjustment by checking the free rotation of the drum and the fastening of all knives.

Preparation for work

You can work with the tool in two positions:

• stationary position: the electric planer is attached to a hard, stable surface;
• portable: the tool is moved manually along the workpiece.

Many models come with special clamps and a bracket for the start button. In a stationary position, it is more convenient to process lumber of small length, which can be moved through the tool alone. It is desirable to process long workpieces with an electric planer in a portable version.

Wood must be dried, raw lumber is poorly processed. The board must be well fixed on a hard surface. The part should not bend under the weight of the planer and move in any direction during operation. When processing side surfaces on a workbench, it is advisable to install them on special fasteners that protect them from bending and moving. In the area of ​​rotation of the drum with knives there should be no metal elements (brackets, nails, screws) on the treated surface and fastening elements. A blow to the metal will leave a gouge on the knives, and a protrusion will form on the treated surface. Knives will have to be sharpened by removing a thick layer of metal, or changed.

Surface treatment

An electric planer can perform three operations:

• chamfer at different angles;
• choose quarters on blanks;
• cut surfaces.

The main purpose of the tool is to plan surfaces of various lengths and widths.

When working, the planer must be placed on the surface of the workpiece with the front plate so that the knives do not touch the surface. Press the start button, after a set of revolutions (the sound stops changing the tone), start moving the planer over the surface. The tool must be held strictly parallel to the surface to be treated, the movement must be uniform, without jerks and stops. At the beginning of the movement, you need to increase the pressure on the front part, when leaving the surface on the back part. The planer should work smoothly, without vibration. If there is a strong vibration, the sound changes during operation, you need to turn off the tool, determine and eliminate the cause of abnormal operation.

The depth of the pass must be set depending on the purpose of processing. If you want to change the stock size, you can use the maximum size. When leveling the surface, it is desirable to work with a small depth of processing, achieving the required quality in several passes.

Also, the depth of processing depends on the material. Hard rock should be run several times at shallow depths so as not to overload the tool.

Additional features of the tool

To chamfer, you need to use a special triangular groove cut on the front plate of the planer.

The tool should be set with a groove at the corner for processing, run and move along the part, keeping the slope. The first pass is made along the slot, subsequent passes, if necessary, are carried out in the usual manner.

To make quarters on a planer, you need to install an additional stop to limit movement away from the direction of movement. The second stop, which limits the depth of the quarter, is located on the side surface. The stops must be set to required dimensions. The distance should be measured from the corner of the cutting edge of the knife in the up position. Quarter sampling is performed in several passes. If the vertical surface of the quarter turns out to be steps, it is necessary to increase the protrusion of the knives beyond the side surface of the planer.

A wide surface of lumber can be processed in several passes. Processing must begin from the left edge, setting the adjustment to the minimum depth. The next pass should be carried out with an offset to the right by about a third of the length of the knives. In this way, you need to go over the entire width of the workpiece. If the quality is unsatisfactory, repeat the surface treatment in the same way.

Conclusion on the topic

An electric planer will help to significantly reduce the time of work, save money on the purchase of lumber.

When working, you must comply with the necessary safety requirements to avoid serious injuries to the limbs and other parts of the body.

A planer is a traditional carpenter's tool, a kind of symbol of this profession. The form of the tool and the methods of working with it, despite its technical improvement, have not essentially changed over the years.

To planing process wooden blank flowed “without a hitch, without a hitch” (as evidenced by the twisted chips freely emerging from the slot in the block of the planer), it is necessary to fine-tune the planer knife and correctly drive the planer along the planed surface.

Gouging is a real pleasure when from a planer a thin and long twisted chip flies out.

Fixing the knife in the vise of the workbench planer with exposed chipbreaker, slightly tighten the screw. After wedging chipbreaker fixed itself due to its springiness.

Insert the knife into the notch of the planer and at first only fix by hand wedge in its guides.

To determine, is it set correctly knife (its blade should be parallel sole plane planer and protrude slightly above it), you just need to flip the planer and evaluate mutual blade parallelism knife and soles on the eye. To readjust (if needed) position knife, free wedge, set the knife correctly and fix it again wedge.

When planing the layers of workpieces, the knife must remove chips of uniform thickness. To do this, you need to adjust the chipbreaker of a jointer, a double planer (with a double blade) or a grinder. The chipbreaker fulfills its name and should be mounted just above (about 1 mm) the knife blade and fit snugly against it.

First, a knife with a chipbreaker fixed on it is inserted into the slot (notch) of the block (body) and slightly wedged. Then the knife is exposed with light blows of the hammer so that its blade is parallel to the sole of the planer and protrudes slightly above it. After that, the knife is finally fixed in the block with a wedge, screw or cam clamp (depending on the planer design).

Since during planing the upper part of the body of the worker makes movements together with the planer, the carpenter must stand on the side parallel to the workpiece being processed, putting one foot forward. So that the planer does not tip over at the beginning and at the end of the workpiece (then the surface to be treated will be uneven in these areas), you should first lean harder on its front handle, and then at the exit - on the back.

PRECISION PLANE

In modern planers with a metal block, the knife is usually fixed with a screw. Another screw (setting) can be used to adjust the planer to the required thickness of the chip being removed with an accuracy of hundredths of a millimeter. In addition, such planers are equipped with a so-called knife tilt regulator, which allows you to quickly, just by pressing the thumb on the corresponding lever, correctly set the knife blade relative to the sole of the planer.

EDGE PLANTING

When planing the edges of flat workpieces, the planer should move along an even path along the entire length of the workpiece, leaning on it evenly. In this case, the knife must be securely fixed so that it does not vibrate in the block. In addition, chip breaking should be avoided by strict in the direction of the wood fibers. When processing wood blanks with a fine and irregular texture (for example, root), the knife must be sharpened very well. When planing, such a workpiece should be constantly rotated.

It is more convenient to cut a narrow edge using, for example, a piece of board, pressed against the workpiece, or planed simultaneously the edges of several thin boards assembled in a package. In this case increased bearing surface for the sole of the planer.

To prevent the edge from being rounded, the planer must be kept level, without tilting to any side.

Scherhebel can be removed in one pass thicker layer of material.

Planing the end of the workpiece will be much easier if you hold the planer at an angle to the workpiece layers.

Wide wooden slats clamped to both the edges of the workpiece, exclude chips when processing the end.

Plasti blanks of small length come out very smooth with a silky sheen after processing with only one grinder.

When planing layers, it is necessary constantly check with steel square their processed surface.

When processing long workpieces best proven jointer, which can even be planed towards the fibers.

PLANTING OF PLATES

To make a rough but even surface smooth, it is enough to process it with a grinder (a tool with a knife tilt increased to 60 ° for fine planing of hard-to-cut wood) and a jointer. To eliminate irregularities or remove a thicker layer, processing with a sherhebel will be required. The latter is equipped with a narrow (33 mm wide) convex knife with an oval blade, capable of removing chips up to 3 mm thick in one pass. After that, the face must be leveled with a grinder and “smoothed” with a jointer.

END CLEARING

When cleaning the ends of the workpieces, the planer is driven in the direction “away from you”, making short pushes to them. In this case, the wood fibers are cut across, which requires a little more effort and the use of a very sharp knife. To avoid chipping at the edge in the direction of which the end face of the workpiece is being machined, this edge can be chamfered beforehand. And it is better to first process one half of the butt to the middle, and then, turning the workpiece 180 °, its second half.

More than during operation, the blades deteriorate from contact with foreign objects when the planer is not in use. During breaks in work, the planer should be placed on lateral side or the front of the sole on wooden stand. For long-term storage or when transporting the planer in the tool box, the knife should be removed inside the block.

The process of sharpening a board requires responsibility, care and precision.

In this article we will talk about how to plan a wide board, and indeed about the process of sharpening. Its main task is to obtain a perfectly flat plane without height differences. Also, this stage is preparatory to the aesthetic processing of wood. Only after sharpening can you polish the board and cover it with special decorating compounds or varnish. A similar procedure is performed in several ways, and the following table will give you an approximate description of these processes.

Guard method	Peculiarities
With the help of a planer	Manual method, which requires a lot of labor. As a rule, it allows you to process not too wide surfaces and does not give an ideal result. Requires planer skills.
With the help of an electric planer	Also manual way, but less expensive than in the first case. At the same time, there are models of electric planers that allow you to work with impressive boards in width.
With the help of a gauge	Reismus is a compact planer which can be used in the home. Allows you to achieve the highest quality result, but does not provide large amounts of work.
With a planer	The professional way to work with a wide range of material sizes. In addition, it provides an almost perfect result.

How to plan a board with an electric planer

An electric planer is a tool that greatly simplifies the process of sharpening

Let's move on to how to plan a wide board with an electric planer. This task is not an easy one, although, of course, it is easier than ordinary work. hand planer. The fact is that the uniformity of the sharpening depends on you, which is regulated by the force of pressure on the device. In this case, the effort should be with a constant identical effort. Otherwise, the surface that you plan will turn out to be inhomogeneous. This is especially true for wide boards, where you need to pass the planer in several lines. The first run is sighting, it will set the surface removal depth for all other runs. Now about how to properly plan the boards with an electric planer. As we have already said, the uniformity of pressure on the surface and the constancy of the applied efforts are very important. In addition, it is important to guide the planer in a straight path, without moving to the side. A preliminary markup or a laser level can help with this. Well, it is also very important to properly position the board. It should lie on a perfectly flat surface, then the result will be maximum. By the way, there is a more advanced version of the electric planer - a thicknesser, with its help the process of controlling the evenness of the guard becomes easier.

Electric planers went on sale in the middle of the last century. And since then, there have been no fundamental changes in their design. It remains an indispensable tool for carpenters and home craftsmen to this day. Its main function is wood processing and fold selection. The article will discuss how to plan with an electric planer.

• significantly increases labor productivity;
• the quality of the result improves;
• no significant effort is required, which allows you to process at a time a large number of material.

Working with a simple planer, you have to make reciprocating movements that quickly exhaust. The principle of operation of the electric planer is based on the rotational movement of the blades, which move independently, without human effort.

Today, a huge range of electric planers is presented on the construction market and it is not surprising to get confused in the choice of what you need. They are both household and professional, it all depends on how intensively they will be used.

The design of the electric planer

The cost of a planer will depend on its main working part - a drum with knives. The number of blades can vary from 1 to 4, but most often they are produced with two blades. It is their number and the speed with which the drum rotates and forms the productive capacity of the tool, and, accordingly, the price. For home use, it is enough to choose a planer, the blade rotation frequency of which is within 10 thousand / min.

Besides important element, electric planer consists of:

• the case itself with a handle;
• branch pipe, for removal or collection of chips;
• start button with soft start system;
• Electrical engine;
• body base - sole;
• closed drive;
• regulator, to limit the depth of chip selection.

Tip: more expensive models often have a special system that automatically controls the speed of the drum depending on the load.

The difference between household electric planers and professional ones

This division is rather arbitrary, since it is best to buy a high-quality planer for working at home. But their cost is so high that few people can afford to purchase it for single works.

• It is best to choose a household electric planer from the middle price category. This will ensure the acquisition of a good and functional device for short work. It is also worth paying attention to the weight, which should be in the range from 3 to 4 kg and the power of the electric motor - at least 1000 watts.
• Tip: when choosing an electric planer, two powers are indicated in its passport. The first is maximum, and the second is effective. For hardwood or with a lot of knots, the second value should not be less than 400 watts.
• The next thing that plays a role when choosing a tool is the engine speed of the electric planer. For housework or private construction, a value of 10,000 rpm will be sufficient.
• If you need to buy a more powerful professional tool, then its power should not be lower than 1.5 kW. At the same time, the weight of such a planer will be almost 10 kg.

• Another option is to adjust the cutting depth. A household appliance can be set up to 3 mm, while professional ones can plan to a depth of 4 mm. Also important is the adjustment step, which varies from 0.1 to 0.25 mm. The more provisions, the best quality can be achieved at work.

Tip: sometimes manufacturers are cunning and indicate deliberately false information. You need to know that the possible depth of planing directly depends on the power of the electric planer. So, a tool with a low power of up to 1000 W and a weight of 3-4 kg cannot be deepened by 4 mm.

• A distinctive feature of the electric planer professional level is the presence of a function to support the number of revolutions when processing complex areas. In cheaper household models, it is practically not found.
• It is very convenient when the kit includes a stand that allows you to permanently fix the electric planer with the blades up. All expensive models are equipped with it; it is rarely found in household options.

The average price for an electric planer for home use is 5-8t.r.

Choosing an electric planer for work

Appearance

• For the possibility of repair and maintenance, the body must be collapsible. As a rule, it consists of a removable cover for a belt drive and a main part that covers the engine and sole.

• The tool should fit well in the hand, be balanced in weight. When taking an electric planer, you should pay attention to how convenient it is to press the start button with the same hand that holds the tool. It is better to abandon the model, which you have to turn on with the other hand, as this will quickly lead to fatigue during operation.
• There should be a groove on the sole of the planer. Its functions are to exhaust air during operation and to chamfer. Even if the plans do not require frequent chamfering, air removal makes the job very easy, eliminating the formation of an air cushion.
• The planing depth regulator can be rotary or made in the form of a button. It does not play a role, it will be equally convenient to use.

• The branch pipe, which is used to remove chips, must be equipped with a collection bag and be able to turn in a convenient direction.

Technical indicators

• Motor power. It can be from 600 to 2000 watts. The more powerful the tool, the more electricity it consumes, the heavier it weighs and the more expensive it is. All this is justified only for active operation.
• RPM. Manufacturers indicate this value at idle. So, if an indicator of 12,000 revolutions is indicated, when working with wood of medium hardness, the actual revolutions will be approximately 8000.
• Planing width. The width of the sole also depends on the power of the electric planer. It is not necessary to buy too narrow, then it will be inconvenient to work with wide surfaces. It is optimal to take a tool with a working surface of 90-100 mm and a power of 1000 - 1200 watts.
• planing depth. This has already been written above, but it is worth adding one nuance. Very rarely, when homework a depth of even 3 mm is required, so it is enough to choose a model with a possible recess of up to 2 mm.

How to work with an electric planer

• An electric planer is a rather serious tool and working with it requires concentration and heightened attention. Therefore, just after buying it, you should not immediately start working, it is first recommended to study the instruction manual for the electric planer.
• This tool can be used for primary processing of wood, removing knots, wane and other rough irregularities. And do the finishing touches to perfection smooth surface. The desired effect is achieved by adjusting the blades. So, for primary work, the knives must be set harder, and for the final one, on the contrary, reduce the distance between the sole and the knives.
• Before starting work with an electric planer, you need to try to get your hand on the rough material; in case of failure, it will not be a pity to spoil it. This will allow you to sufficiently feel the tool and understand and adjust the electric planer.
• In inept hands, an electric planer can leave scratches instead of a smooth surface. You can fix this by adjusting the protrusion of the blades, this is done using a hexagon. After a few tweaks, the tool will be ready for the main work.

Tip: when adjusting the knives, make sure that they do not touch the body.

• Having started work, the wooden product is laid so that it does not move. It is desirable to fix it with something. In the end result, this will greatly affect the quality of processing. An inattentive attitude to this moment can lead to injury to the master. The knives rotate at high speed and, having reached the knot, can catch for a moment and throw the board out of its position.

• Planing starts from the edge of the board, gradually moving towards the opposite end. The tool is held firmly with both hands. With one hand, they hold the main handle with the start button, and with the second handle they help to correct the direction.
• Each time before using an electric planer, it is necessary to check that the blades do not come into contact with the wood being processed. Otherwise, it will lead to injury.
• To create a smooth surface, you need to know how to plan correctly. The sole of the tool is located strictly parallel to the board. This can be achieved only by an equal effort, which is exerted by the hands on both handles of the planer. In addition, the work must be carried out with the same movements and at the same speed throughout the entire surface to be treated.

Working with an electric planer video

• If the electric planer has a support-stand, then working with it will be significantly different. In this case, it performs the function of the machine, being in a stationary position. The master, on the other hand, needs to drive the board itself, exercising the necessary pressure on it. With this method of work, it is important to securely fasten the support itself to the countertop using the fasteners that come with the kit. It is convenient to work in this way with an assistant, who should also be warned about the peculiarities of using the tool.

Instructions for disassembling an electric planer

If the tool was bought new, then you cannot disassemble it yourself before the end of the warranty, otherwise it will be canceled. For household electric planers, this period, as a rule, does not exceed 2 years. In case of any breakdown during this period, you should contact the warranty center, which is in every city.

Another thing is when the instrument is not new or was bought in a “used” condition. To simplify the task of possible repairs, it is necessary to study the internal structure of the electric planer.

Regardless of the model, each planer consists of:

• electric motor;
• shaft with knives;
• planing depth regulator;
• plastic case;
• Belting;
• sole.

The principle of operation of this power tool of course depends on the motor. When receiving an electrical impulse, the motor redirects the rotation to the cutter. The transmission of torque itself occurs through a belt.

The sole of the electric planer is not monolithic, but consists of two parts. Thanks to the movable front part, it becomes possible to adjust the blades, while the back part remains stationary.

Variety of electric planer knives

Knives are consumable which become dull or break over time. Therefore, they have to be bought again from time to time. In total, there are two main types of knives - carbide and high-speed blades.

• Fast cutting blades. They belong to the category of reusable, as they can be repeatedly sharpened. Which makes them more cost effective. But their alloy does not allow working with hard woods such as oak or larch.
• Carbide blades. They last longer than their fast cutting counterparts, wear more slowly and are ideal for hardwoods. But their main disadvantage is that they cannot be re-sharpened. In addition, in case of accidental contact with a metal object, for example, a nail unnoticed in the material, there is a high probability that the blade will break. Manufacturers offer a two-sided version of such knives, when one side becomes dull, it can be turned over with the other sharp side.

How to set up an electric planer

• As with repair work with any electrical appliance, the planer must first be de-energized.
• As a rule, replacement of knives is required after long-term operation, which means that a lot of resin has accumulated on its working surface. You can clean it with white spirit.
• Next, check the correct installation of the knives. To do this, a metal ruler is applied to the edge of the sole and check whether it touches the ends of the blades. If not, then they need to be adjusted first.
• Further special key supplied with the tool slightly loosen the knives on the drum. In this case, the cutting part of the knives should be strictly parallel to the sole and protrude no more than 0.5 mm. But a rounded knife is set twice as much, from 1 mm and more.

Living in an apartment, such a tool as an electric planer may not be needed. Another thing, if there is Vacation home, cottage or even your own workshop, in this case it is simply necessary. Thanks to the article, you can do the right decision in choosing the right model of an electric planer for private use.

Plane, is the tool needed to level and shape wood. Planers are used to “remove” thin, even strips from wood. Thus, the "bulges" are removed and a smooth, uniform surface is created. Wood was originally planed by hand, but today, electric "planers" allow carpenters to plan wood with modern speed and efficiency. All carpenters should be able to plan wood - to start learning how to do it, see step 1 below!

Steps

Planing with a hand planer

Choose the right planer for the job. There are a few different types planes. The main thing that distinguishes planers is their size. The longer the planer, the more accurately it will level the tree, since the long body of the planer allows you to even out all the uneven saw cuts and protruding parts on the surface of the tree. Short planers are generally easier to use and are used for more accurate, precise work. Below are examples of a few of the most common planers, listed from longest to shortest:

• Jointer, usually the body length is 56 cm or more. These long planes are useful for finishing or leveling such long wooden products like boards or doors.
• Sherhebel, slightly shorter than the jointer, body length from 30 to 43 cm. Compared to the jointer, this planer is lighter due to the fact that it is shorter, but, nevertheless, it can level both long and short pieces of raw logs.
• sander, with a body of 25 cm, this planer of all, the most versatile. It can be used to level and smooth any surface.
• end planer, the smallest type of planer. This planer is too short to easily level long boards, but is ideal for very fine work or working in tight corners.

1. Sharpen the blade of the planer. Before using it, the blade (also called a knife) of the plane must be sharp as a razor - even new planes need to be sharpened. To sharpen a blade, first place a piece of dry or wet 220 grit sandpaper on a flat surface. Hold the blade at a 25-30 degree angle so that the cut of the blade is in the same plane as the sandpaper. Keeping this angle, rub the blade against the sandpaper in a circular motion while applying pressure to the blade. When chips appear on the sides of the blade (metal chips accumulate), the blade is ready for use. Run the other side of the blade across sandpaper to remove metal shavings.

   Adjust the blade angle. When you plan, the angle of the blade will determine how "thick" the chips will be, which you will remove from the surface of the tree. If the angle is too large, you may be left with a stuck planer or damaged wood cuts. To adjust the blade angle, turn the angle adjustment wheel. This is a small wheel that is located immediately behind the blade. Adjust the angle of the blade until the tip protrudes slightly from the bottom of the planer.

   • A good tactic is to start with a small angle and, if necessary, gradually increase it.

2. plan wooden surface. Start leveling and smoothing the wood surface by placing the planer on the edge of the surface to be treated. While pushing down on the front handle, push the rear handle forward and slide the planer over the work surface in a long, smooth motion. Sweep the planer methodically across the surface, paying particular attention to bumps and bumps in the surface of the wood.

   • You can define surface irregularities with a level or ruler.

3. Avoid tearing the wood, plan along the grain of the wood. To level the surface of the board, it may be that you need to plan in different directions. However, always try not to cut directly against the grain. If you do this, the blade may "jam" for a moment, which may cause roughness on the surface. When this happens, the planer can pick out small burrs from the surface of the wood, instead of "cutting" them and leveling the surface. This is called "pull out".

   • To fix the tear, try again with the planer on the jagged spot, but only along the grain. Or rub with sandpaper.

4. Check the accuracy of your work. Ideally, after you have cut the tree, you should have a smooth, Smooth surface, which fits snugly to any piece of wood. Place a ruler on the surface and check how even and smooth it is. The ruler should fit snugly against the tree, no matter where you put it. If in any of the places the ruler moves away from the surface and a gap appears between them, you immediately understand that in some area the ruler lies on a convex place.

   • You can use a carpenter's square to check the angle between two bonded surfaces to make sure the perfect ninety degree angle is between them.

   Planing on a mechanical machine

   1. Note that usually, in order to plan on the machine, a piece of wood must already have one flat side. jointing machines, this mechanical tools, which work on rollers and with a blade adjustment system to automatically plan a piece of wood to the same thickness. Planer, it is a great tool for experienced carpenters, which saves a lot of time. However, it is important to know that most machines plan the surface of the wood to the same level as it is planed from the “other side”. In other words, if one side is perfectly flat, the machine will make exactly the same surface on the other side. Therefore, you can only use your machine if you are sure about the reverse side.

      Set the machine to the desired thickness. On all machines, you can somehow configure how “deep” you need to plan a tree. This is usually done with a hand lever that raises the machine table - the higher the table, the finer the machine will plan. As with a hand planer, the smart solution is to cut a little at first. You can always gobble up more, but you can't take back what you've already done.

      • Usually, the "depth" of the chip itself is not indicated on the machine, it is indicated the total thickness to which the tree is "planed". It turns out that if you need to plan a board of 5 cm to a thickness of 150 mm, you need to set the machine to 150/160 mm, etc.
      • Please note that on most machines you cannot immediately set the thickness to 150-300 - this is bad for both the machine and the wood.

   2. Optionally, set the depth gauge. Many machines have a "lock-out" feature that prevents the machine from cutting more than it should. This mechanism is called the depth limiter. For example, if the depth gauge is set to 2.5 cm, the machine will not be able to plan wood thinner than 2.5 cm. This is a very useful feature so that you don't have to worry about accidentally cutting too much wood.

      • If you don't want to use the depth gauge, set it to the lowest low level- much lower than the thickness of your board - so you will never reach this limit.

   3. Turn on the machine and pass the board through it. As your board passes through the machine, carefully move the machine forward while controlling its movement. When the board is picked up by the rollers, it should already go by itself. Keep in mind that as with a hand planer, to avoid tearing, you need the blade to follow the grain of the wood. If necessary, repeat the chips until you get the desired board thickness.

      • You can keep track of how the chips are going if you first draw lightly on the surface of the board with a pencil. As the machine removes the bumps, you will notice that the pencil lines start to disappear.

   4. Hold the board while it rides over the rollers so that it does not fall over."Clogging" is what planers can sometimes do to a board. The rollers of the machine push the board mainly up and deeper cuts are obtained on the sides than in the center. To prevent this, tighten the edges of the board when it passes through the upper and lower rollers of the machine. In other words, you need to push up on the "back" end of the board as you "feed" it to the loom, and then push up on the front of the board as it comes out of the loom.

      If necessary, use ear, eye and mouth protection. Usually machine tools very loud. To protect your hearing, wear special protection for the ears, such as headphones or plugs. In addition, machines generate a lot of dust, so if the machine does not have a device that sucks up this dust (such as a dust collector), you need to use eye protection and a surgical mask to protect yourself from dust.