Quarantus where to plant the sun or partial shade. Quaranthus planting and care at home

  • 13.06.2019

In order to grow a healthy plant in your garden, you need to follow the subtleties of care. Everyone respects exotic flowers. In this article, the editors intended to lay down many secrets to avoid disease when breeding a rare plant. The secrets of the content of most classes of colors do not differ. Every living being requires a painstaking approach. It seems correct to understand useful procedures which family the acquired plant belongs to.

How to properly care for a catharanthus?

The soil should be nutritious and loose.

To do this, it is best to take one part of peat, humus, coarse sand, turf and leafy soil. But, in general, any fertile soil for catharanthus is also suitable, especially if there is no excess of salts in it. For growing in pots, you can use the earth for geraniums. The main thing is not to forget about drainage, using fine expanded clay.

Watering and air humidity.

Like all plants, pink catharanthus loves water. Therefore, it should be watered regularly, but in no case should it be flooded, especially in containers or pots. Therefore, if a flower pot does not stand on a pallet with expanded clay, then excess water it is better to pour out of the pallet.

Growing catharanthus from seeds

But on the windowsill it is quite possible. If there is additional lighting, then seeds can be sown for seedlings without waiting for spring, in February. Catharanthus seeds are not petunia seeds, which are difficult to see. Compared to petunias, they are large and powerful.

The sowing depth should not be more than one and a half centimeters. First, water the earth, wait until the water is absorbed, and only then proceed to sowing the seeds. Darkness is necessary for sown seeds. Therefore, they need to be covered with a dark film and patiently wait for the result for seven to ten days, if the temperature is about 23-24 degrees. When sprouts appear, the film is removed.

This is the official version of seed sowing. But from the experience of amateur gardeners, one can conclude that even without a film, the seeds also germinate perfectly. It is good to grow seeds in peat tablets. True, due to the small amount of soil, you need to carefully monitor the watering of the seedlings: do not overdry, do not overmoisten when you remove the film.

The sprouts that have appeared remain at the same level for a long time - they build up their root system. But do not rush to feed sprouted plants with fertilizer. From the moment the sprouts appear to the first feeding, at least two to three weeks should pass.

The first pick is carried out if the plant has already had four leaves. It is better to plant two or three plants in a pot, and then also transfer them together into open ground, so as not to disturb the root system.

If you try to separate these bushes, then the woven roots will break, and the pink periwinkle endures such an operation very painfully, and then, if it does not die, it slows down in growth for a long time. The distance between such planted groups of plants should be at least thirty centimeters.

Kataranthus is a "fast" flower. Therefore, by the end of summer, he will already cover the ground with a flowering rug.

Propagation of catharanthus by cuttings

If you don’t have seeds, but it is possible to get a cutting, then growing in such a vegetative way will also not be difficult. The cuttings should not be stiff. Apical green cuttings are suitable for propagation of the periwinkle in a vegetative way. They take root perfectly in water, especially if a few drops of a stimulant are added there. And you can plant cuttings immediately in wet sand mixed with fertile soil. But in this case, it is better to cover them with a plastic bag or a regular jar. Cuttings can be rooted both in spring after pruning, and in autumn, cutting off green shoots from a plant growing outside. But the temperature, in order for the rooting of the cuttings to be successful, must be at least twenty degrees.

Quaranthus and pests are problems in cultivation.

If the periwinkle grew outside in the summer, then before bringing the plant into the room, check if aphids have attacked it. Also, a flower can encroach spider mite and shield. If this happened indoors, then the air for the flower is too dry. Spray the plant more often, and remove the pests with a brush dipped in alcohol and treat by special means. Not bad in this case, a soapy solution helps, which can also process the leaves without harm to the plant. Also brown rust can attack the catharanthus. The leaves are then covered from below with "pustules".

Caring for a catharanthus - as well as for any house plant, you need to watch:

See the sequel: "Kataranthus - an impeccable guest from Madagascar" "Periwinkle in the house and garden: catharanthus and company"

garden plants

Kataranthus - cultivation and care

Perennial plants are one of the options for landscaping indoors and gardens. This is not surprising, because by planting a perennial, you get rid of the need to annually purchase seeds and sow them, waiting - will they sprout?

In this article, we will talk about catharanthus, planting and caring for this plant.

Quaranthus in the garden

Kataranthus belongs to the botanical family of kutrovye and is an evergreen perennial up to one and a half meters high. The leaves are shiny, smooth, dark green in color, flowering is plentiful, the flowers look like a periwinkle. It was this external resemblance that was the reason that for quite a long time scientists considered the catharanthus to be related to the periwinkle and called it “wine” or “pink periwinkle”.

It is difficult to determine the homeland of the catharanthus, since in the wild it is widely distributed in Africa, India, Cuba, Madagascar, Java and the Philippines.

Quarantus in a flower bed can only be grown in regions with a mild warm climate. Of course, you can plant it in the garden in the middle latitudes, but the catharanthus in the open field will not be able to overwinter.

Quaranthus: cultivation

The plant prefers bright areas with a limited amount of direct sunlight. The west and east sides of the garden (or windows facing those sides) are great for a catharanthus. The plant does not like excessive soil moisture (especially in spring - excess moisture in the spring can completely destroy the flower), but the air must be well moistened. In order for the catharanthus to develop well, it needs regular spraying. When growing in a pot, take care of a sufficient amount of soil, because the plant develops quickly enough.

The best soil for catharanthus is a mixture of sand, peat, humus, leaf and sod land (in equal amounts). In the warm season, the catharanthus feels good at a temperature of 19-25 ° C, and during the dormant period, the temperature in the room with the plant should be in the range of 12-18 ° C.

The plant should be transplanted annually, and in case of rapid growth in the summer, two or three transfers to larger pots can be made. If the catharanthus is not transplanted in time, the roots are braided with an earthen lump in a pot and the plant begins to weaken - the leaves turn yellow and crumble, flowering decreases or stops. So that the shoots of the catharanthus do not stretch too much, in the spring they are cut to a third of the length.

In the spring, the plant needs to be fed - complex mineral and phosphorus fertilizers twice a month will come just right.

Make sure that pests do not appear on the leaves of the catharanthus and destroy them in a timely manner. The most common pests of this plant are: mealybug. whitefly. shield and aphids.

Quaranthus: reproduction

Circumcision has a few basic rules:

  • branches are docked at 1/3 of their height;
  • all dry stems are removed (the knife is pre-disinfected);
  • the cut is sprinkled with sulfur.

Watering

Kataranthus is from southern countries and likes to take a shower. Therefore, in the summer it should be watered 3 times a week. The soil must not be allowed to dry out. But it shouldn't rot either. Therefore, after watering, after 20 minutes, the water remaining on the pan does not interfere with pouring out, otherwise the roots may rot with prolonged contact with water.

The flower loves to be sprayed. For watering and spraying, the water should be at room temperature, settling for a couple of days. In winter, watering is reduced to 1 time per week. The soil, between watering, should dry out in winter.

Lighting

Quarantus takes root well in bright places. But the light for him should be diffused. In summer it will bloom magnificently on the western window, but the eastern one will do. In the morning, you should protect the flower from direct sunlight. Place it in the shade or draw down a curtain.

For the summer, a pot with a plant can be taken out into the garden, but choose a place for it where it will not be flooded in case of rain.

For the winter, it is recommended to move the catharanthus to the south side of the window in a warm place. With poor lighting in winter, the plant reaches for the light source, thereby stretching its stems. You can get out of the situation. It is enough to strengthen the phytolamp on top at a distance of 8-10 cm on a flower.

Temperature

Kataranthus, although he came to us from the sultry southern countries, even in summer time accustomed to room temperature, not higher than 25 0C, ideally 20-25 0C. In winter it prefers a lower temperature of 12-160C.

It is very important to maintain the humidity of the air. When it dries out, the plant suffers greatly. Therefore, it needs frequent spraying. If it is not possible to buy a humidifier for the air, you can put a container of water next to the pot. In winter, in heating season, on the hot battery you can hang a wet towel.

reproduction

Catharanthus reproduces in two ways - vegetatively and by seeds.

In early spring, the seed is planted to a depth of 2 cm in the soil. He needs to provide good nutritious soil. Seeds must be covered with an opaque film, because. it will grow only in the dark. The temperature is desirable to maintain 23-250C. In this case, the first sprouts will not take long to wait and will appear in a week. As soon as they appeared, the film must be removed and the temperature reduced to 200C. Bait should be done 14 days after the sprouts have sprouted. Fertilizer for flowering houseplants in a lower concentration is suitable here. You can plant young flowers when they grow up to 10 cm and there will be 4-5 petals on the stem. It should be planted in a voluminous, with a hole at the bottom, a pot, providing the necessary soil and drainage.

Quarantus also propagates by apical cuttings. To do this, they are placed in water. As soon as the root appears, they are transplanted into a separate pot.

Quarantus does not require constant attention and particularly reverent care, but caring for it will be rewarded with lush, exquisite flowers.

Quaranthus photo




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Kataranthus is an unpretentious and very pretty flower, which is better known as the pink periwinkle, feels great in the garden in the flower bed, containers, and also in pots on the windowsills. The plant is small, compact, branchy and, importantly, fast growing and easy to propagate. But in order for the catharanthus to please the eye with its impeccable flowering for a longer time, you still need to know some rules for caring for it.

To do this, it is best to take one part of peat, humus, coarse sand, turf and leafy soil. But, in general, any fertile soil for catharanthus is also suitable, especially if there is no excess of salts in it. For growing in pots, you can use the earth for geraniums. The main thing is not to forget about drainage, using fine expanded clay.

Like all plants, pink catharanthus loves water. Therefore, it should be watered regularly, but in no case should it be flooded, especially in containers or pots. Therefore, if the flower pot is not on a pallet with expanded clay, then it is better to pour out excess water from the pallet.

Flower growers who have pink periwinkle growing in the garden are well aware that in a rainy, too wet summer, plant growth slows down. A flower that is constantly flooded, if it also grows in too dense soil, may suddenly die due to rotting of the roots.

However, the earthy coma should not be brought to dryness. In some varieties of plants, lack of moisture leads to curling of the leaves. The leaves curl up into tubes, and it seems that the flower has died. But don't despair right away. Abundant watering - and in an hour the leaves will unwind again.

So that in rainy weather the catharanthus does not suffer from excessive moisture, do not plant it too crowded. It should also not be too crowded to plant plants in a container: after all, spraying is a little rain.

Once every ten days, water your periwinkle with a special fertilizer containing potassium and phosphorus. Suitable fertilizer for roses. home flower will thank you for this especially spectacular flowering.

If the catharanthus does not like too wet ground, then, on the contrary, it welcomes high humidity. Spray the flower more often, in winter it is better to do this warm water. Also, make sure you have ventilation.

If the catharanthus grows in the house, then it should stand in a bright place. The more light, the better. In case of lack of lighting, the stems will stretch, become thinner, the flowers will become smaller, and their number will also be reduced. The east and west windows are great places to grow catharanthus. Pink periwinkle is a native of the tropics, so it loves warmth. Indoor temperature should not fall below 5-8 degrees. The optimal time is 15-30.

On the street to the bright sun, it is better to accustom the catharanthus gradually. When planting seedlings, think about whether this place will be protected from the cold wind. Draft and cold wind can destroy the plant.

Although the pink catharanthus is distant relative for our usual periwinkle, but, unlike him, he will not be able to spend the winter in a flower bed in the garden. A flower growing on the street will die with the onset of frost. So if you want to next year to admire exactly the same variety of catharanthus, you need to break the cuttings and root them, transferring them to warm house. Even a room catharanthus in the summer is better to take out to the balcony and put it in a bright place. Let it "breathe" with fresh air.

You need to repot the plant often, every year, because the plant is fast-growing. Some even consider it a disadvantage. A plant growing in a pot, stretched out over the winter, needs to be cut every spring so that it bushes better. If the plant has become too stretched, violating the intended picture with its appearance, then you can cut it slightly in the summer. But we must remember that the flowers on the cut stem will appear only after two to three weeks. The main stem will become tree-like.

Although the catharanthus is a perennial (if it grows in a house or in its homeland), it is not worth keeping it at home for more than three years. Better plant rejuvenate by cuttings. Young plants look more impressive. But, if you cut the catharanthus by more than one third, then the flowers and leaves will become much smaller. (With good care, leaves reach seven centimeters, and flowers - five centimeters).

Pinch a flower planted in a flower bed as mercilessly as an indoor one, once a week for one and a half to two months. Thanks to such a merciless pinching, the flower bed will be simply gorgeous. After all, flowers appear at the tips of the stems, in the upper axils of the leaves. The more stems, the more flowers. Although it must be admitted that scientists have bred varieties in which branching is genetically incorporated.

Do not forget that the plant is poisonous. Eighty alkaloids contained in periwinkle rose is not a joke to you. Skin irritation may occur, so it is better to work with gloves or trim with small scissors.

In order for the catharanthus to be beautiful and blooming profusely, we must do the following:

  • Water moderately, but regularly (not flooding).
  • Spray frequently.
  • Plant the plant in loose soil in a bright place.
  • Repot every year.
  • Prune annually in the spring.
  • Fertilize three times a month in spring, summer and autumn.

If you fulfill all these simple care requirements, then the catharanthus, as a very grateful plant, will surely decorate your garden and house with its flowers in gratitude for the care.

Catharanthus seeds can be bought online, you can - in a regular store, or you can collect yourself from your plant to sow them next year. But, we must honestly admit that only an experienced grower can collect seeds from a catarthus on his own. It's all about temperate climate: in his conditions, they simply do not tie.

But on the windowsill it is quite possible. If there is additional lighting, then seeds can be sown for seedlings without waiting for spring, in February. Catharanthus seeds are not petunia seeds, which are difficult to see. Compared to petunias, they are large and powerful.

The sowing depth should not be more than one and a half centimeters. First, water the earth, wait until the water is absorbed, and only then proceed to sowing the seeds. Darkness is necessary for sown seeds. Therefore, they need to be covered with a dark film and patiently wait for the result for seven to ten days, if the temperature is about 23-24 degrees. When sprouts appear, the film is removed.

This is the official version of seed sowing. But from the experience of amateur gardeners, one can conclude that even without a film, the seeds also germinate perfectly. It is good to grow seeds in peat tablets. True, due to the small amount of soil, you need to carefully monitor the watering of the seedlings: do not overdry, do not overmoisten when you remove the film.

The sprouts that have appeared remain at the same level for a long time - they build up their root system. But do not rush to feed sprouted plants with fertilizer. From the moment the sprouts appear to the first feeding, at least two to three weeks should pass.

The first pick is carried out if the plant has already had four leaves. It is better to plant two or three plants in a pot, and then transfer them into the open ground together, so as not to disturb the root system.

If you try to separate these bushes, then the woven roots will break, and the pink periwinkle endures such an operation very painfully, and then, if it does not die, it slows down in growth for a long time. The distance between such planted groups of plants should be at least thirty centimeters.

Kataranthus is a "fast" flower. Therefore, by the end of summer, he will already cover the ground with a flowering rug.

If you don’t have seeds, but it is possible to get a cutting, then growing in such a vegetative way will also not be difficult. The cuttings should not be stiff. Apical green cuttings are suitable for propagation of the periwinkle in a vegetative way. They take root perfectly in water, especially if a few drops of a stimulant are added there. And you can plant cuttings immediately in wet sand mixed with fertile soil. But in this case, it is better to cover them with a plastic bag or a regular jar. Cuttings can be rooted both in spring after pruning, and in autumn, cutting off green shoots from a plant growing outside. But the temperature, in order for the rooting of the cuttings to be successful, must be at least twenty degrees.

If the periwinkle grew outside in the summer, then before bringing the plant into the room, check if aphids have attacked it. Also, a spider mite and a scale insect can encroach on a flower. If this happened indoors, then the air for the flower is too dry. Spray the plant more often, and remove the pests with a brush dipped in alcohol and treat with special products. Not bad in this case, a soapy solution helps, which can also be used to process the leaves without harm to the plant. Also brown rust can attack the catharanthus. The leaves are then covered from below with "pustules".

Caring for a catharanthus - as well as for any house plant, you need to watch:

  • If the leaves become soft, turn yellow and die off, this means that there is too much direct sunlight.
  • If the tips of the leaves dry and turn yellow, then the plant does not have enough moisture in the air. This happens in the winter when the heating is on.
  • If the yellowed lower leaves fall off, and the rest of the foliage is bright and green, you can not be scared - this is a natural process.
  • Few flowers - cold air. The higher the temperature, the more abundant the catharanthus blooms.
  • If the roots braid the whole earth in a pot, then the plant will stop blooming, the leaves will dry and turn yellow.

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Caring for a catharanthus

Well-lit places are suitable for Quaranthus, but without the scorching rays of the sun. An excellent option for a catharanthus would be eastern or western window sills.

On the south window, you will definitely need shading, since the bright sun can cause burns on the leaves.

In winter, it is recommended to move the plant to the southern windowsill, because due to the lack of light, the shoots stretch out and lose their decorative effect. At this time, additional lighting with phytolamps or fluorescent lamps is welcome.

In the summer, the catharanthus will feel comfortable at 20-25 degrees. In winter, the temperature of the content should be reduced to 15-18 degrees.

Since catharanthus is a representative of the tropics, a strong drop in temperature is fatal for him. Therefore, in winter the temperature should not fall below 8 degrees.

Quaranthus loves Fresh air, therefore, when warm weather sets in, it can be taken out to the balcony, loggia or garden. In this case, it is necessary to choose a place protected from the scorching rays of the sun, rain and drafts. With the first cold snaps in August, the plant should be taken into the house.

The flower tolerates temperature fluctuations relatively normally, but it is better to provide it with the most comfortable conditions. Then he will delight with abundant lush flowering.

In spring and summer catharanthus needs abundant watering - 3-4 times a week. The soil in the pot should always be slightly moist.

in winter the regularity of the procedure is reduced to 1 time per week. Before the next moistening, the top layer of soil should dry well.

Watering the catharanthus, it is necessary to maintain a balance. For a plant, both waterlogging, which is fraught with rotting of the roots, and drying out of the earth, which can provoke twisting and falling of leaves, are detrimental. Therefore, water from the pan should be poured out 20-30 minutes after watering. It is impossible to allow complete drying of the earthen coma.

Water for irrigation should be defended for several days, it should be at room temperature.

For planting a catharanthus, you need nutritious light soil. You can buy a ready-made substrate for flowering plants in the shop.

With self-preparation, sand, peat, soddy soil and humus should be mixed in equal proportions.

Another option is soddy, leafy soil, peat and sand in a ratio of 1:2:1:0.5. Before planting, the mixture should be disinfected by spilling it with a solution of potassium permanganate.

The pot must have holes for draining. At the bottom it is necessary to lay out a 4-centimeter layer of drainage.

Catharanthus grown as flyers are fed once a week. Perennials should be fertilized every 2 weeks from March to September. Feeding is not needed between October and February.

The dose should be made 2 times weaker than indicated on the package.

Quaranthus grown as flyers need more frequent feeding than those that are planned to be kept for the next year.

Fertilizers should be applied to moist soil after watering.. Do not exceed the concentration of fertilizer indicated on the packaging, as this can cause root burns.

Sometimes you can alternate mineral supplements with organic ones. As the latter, an ash solution is perfect (20 grams per 2 liters of water). Once a month, instead of root dressing, you can spray on the leaf. For this, it is recommended to use the drug Epin Extra.

Quaranthus prefers high ambient humidity - not lower than 60%. To ensure such conditions, you can use several methods:

It is prudent to approach the spraying of catharanthus. On the one hand, the plant loves high humidity, on the other hand, falling drops on the flowers is undesirable. During the flowering period, spraying should be carried out very carefully.

In winter, in a room with dry air, you can spray a dormant pink periwinkle every day, in the morning or in the evening. For this, warm settled water and a fine-grained spray gun are used.

In the spring, before transplanting, the shoots of the plant should be shortened by 1/3. Thus, the catharanthus can be rejuvenated and a lush flowering bush can be formed.

Cut pieces of shoots of catharanthus can be used for propagation.

Pruning is necessary for the catharanthus to form a compact bush, lush flowering and plant rejuvenation.

Quaranthus, grown as a perennial, is recommended to be cut in the spring, because during the winter the plant is very stretched and loses its decorative appearance. It is recommended to trim the shoots by 1/3. If the plant is strongly stretched in summer, it is recommended to carry out the forming pruning by pinching the ends of the shoots. The cut stems will release new buds after a few weeks.

Pruned shoots can be used to propagate periwinkle using cuttings. Although the plant can be grown as a perennial indoors, it is not recommended to keep one specimen for longer than 3 years.

This is explained by lower leaves on the shoots they dry up and fall off, and the flower “goes bald”, loses its attractiveness and decorative appearance. Young catharanthus updated with cuttings look much more presentable.

Brown rust can affect the catharanthus, which is recognized by the presence of pustules on the back of the leaves.

Damaged parts are removed, and the plant is treated with a fungicide, such as Fundazol.

Of the pests, aphids, spider mites, and scale insects pose a threat to the pink periwinkle.

You can fight pests mechanical removal using a soapy solution or treatment with insecticides: Actellik, Fitoverm or Nurell-D.

Prevention of the appearance of insects is proper care, in particular, maintaining high humidity.

As a rule, problems with catharanthus arise due to improper care or adverse conditions of detention:

  • The leaves of the plant begin to turn yellow, become soft and die off, mainly due to an excess of sunlight;
  • If few buds appear on the catharanthus, then it is cold. The higher the temperature, the more magnificent the flowering;
  • Yellowing and curling of the leaves indicates insufficient watering;
  • The stems are stretched with a lack of light;
  • The tips of the leaves dry out due to low humidity;
  • Poor growth and poor flowering indicates a lack of nutrients in the soil;
  • The catharanthus can drop buds when there is a lack of light or moisture.

Quarantus is propagated by seeds and cuttings.

seeds sown in boxes filled with a mixture of peat and sand to a depth of 0.5 cm. The container is covered with polyethylene and placed in a dark, warm (20-24 degrees) place.

After the emergence of seedlings - after 5-7 days - the greenhouse is taken out to a bright place. The earth is moistened as needed.

After 10 days, the film is removed, and after 20-30 days, the seedlings dive into separate pots.

cuttings, 10-12 cm long, cut in spring and summer. The lower leaves are cut off, the cut is processed with a root. Cuttings are planted in a mixture of perlite and peat, covered with a film and kept in diffused light at a temperature of 20-22 degrees.

After propagation of the catharanthus by cuttings, the film is removed after 3 weeks. After another 7 days, young catharanthus land in a permanent place. You can plant 2-3 cuttings in one pot.

Periwinkle grows very quickly, so it needs frequent transplants. Young catharanthus require several transfers to new pots over the summer. Those plants that are grown as perennials need an annual spring transplant (in March - early April).

Timely transplantation is the key to good growth and abundant flowering of periwinkle. If the roots braid the whole earthen ball, the buds stop appearing, and the leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off. In view of this, timely transplantation is very important for catharanthus.

The best way to transplant catharanthus is transshipment. Due to the fact that the earth ball and roots are not damaged, the plant quickly adapts to new conditions and continues to grow and develop well.

A day or two before transplanting, the periwinkle is not watered to strengthen the earthen ball. At the bottom of the new pot is placed good layer drainage from expanded clay, clay shards or broken bricks. The plant is moved to a new container, and the free space in it is covered with new earth and lightly compacted.

Before sowing, it is advised to soak the seeds for 40 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate (1 gram per 0.5 liter of water), then dry them for several hours on a paper towel.

Seeds are sown in bowls or containers filled with a moistened mixture of peat, sand and earth. They deepen by 1-2 cm, after which the soil is slightly moistened with a fine-grained spray gun. The container is covered with an opaque film and placed in a dark place. The optimum temperature for germination is 23-25 ​​degrees.

Under favorable conditions, seedlings appear in 7-10 days., after which the film is removed, the container is transferred to a well-lit place (without the scorching sun), and the temperature of the content decreases slightly.

If in the future the catharanthus will be grown in a pot, then 2-3 copies are planted in one container filled with a substrate for adult plants. So the periwinkle will look more lush and attractive. If the landing is made on a flower bed, then the flowers are planted one at a time.

Now you know everything about caring for catharanthus at home, as well as growing a plant from seeds from sowing to flowering.

Photo of catharanthus in the process of care at home and in the natural environment:

Quarantus - care and reproduction at home

Everyone who has seen a catharanthus indoor plant will agree that this spectacular bush, strewn with delightful numerous flowers, clearly brings the comfort and warmth of the southern islands of the Mediterranean into the house. Its name is translated from Greek as "pure, clear or flawless flower." In this article, you will read about growing catharanthus and caring for it at home. Many flower growers consider him the king of indoor flowering bushes, because the catharanthus pleases its owners with almost endless flowering. all year round, and requires minimal care from them after landing.

The catharanthus flower (Catharanthus) belongs to the evergreen herbaceous and semi-shrub plants of the Kutrovye family (Apocynaceae). In the wild, it can be found everywhere in tropical countries. These are Cuba, Java, Africa, Indochina, Indonesia - it's impossible to list them all. It is not possible to accurately determine its homeland, although many scientists are inclined to Madagascar, where it is most common. There are seven or eight of its species. In the subtropics, the catharanthus grows up to one and a half meters in height. At home, this bush does not exceed 60 cm. As a houseplant, catharanthus has been bred since the middle of the 18th century.

For a long time, the catharanthus was considered one of the varieties of another flower - pink periwinkle. These plants are very similar. Both belong to the Kutrov family. Only since 1937, after lengthy disputes, did botanists begin to attribute the pink catharanthus (Catharanthus roseus), as a species of evergreen perennial shrubs, to a separate genus of Catharanthus.

Indoor flower catharanthus is a perennial plant, often grown as an annual. In height at home, it grows no higher than 50 - 60 cm. Its upright stems are fleshy, branch at the tops, and become woody over time. The roots are powerful, pivotal. The central root reaches a depth of 20-30 cm, there are many lateral adventitious roots that have a strong specific smell. Young roots lack root hairs. The leaves of the catharanthus are oblong in shape, pointed at both ends, and up to 7 cm long. They are glossy, dark green in color, with a white longitudinal vein. During flowering, the entire bush is covered with many wheel-shaped flowers. Catharanthus flowers are 3 to 5 cm in diameter. They have the correct shape of five petals with a flat corolla, the throat of which is covered with thyroid hairs. In the center of each flower there is a peephole, usually of a bright contrasting color. There are hybrids with white, orange, light lilac, blue-violet petals. Catharanthus flowers are very similar to phlox flowers, but they are solitary, while in phlox they are collected in inflorescences. But, during active flowering, from May to October, such a magnificent hat is formed from separately blooming flowers that the decorativeness of the flower at this time is beyond praise. Long flowering ends with the onset of cold weather. After flowering, the fruit of the catharanthus is formed, which is a sickle-shaped two-leaflet, inside which about a dozen elongated seeds are formed.

The catharanthus plant is valued not only for its spectacular appearance and decorativeness. It has been known since ancient times medicinal properties. Healers and healers of Madagascar and Indonesia used catharanthus to treat diabetes, coughs and various tumors. The green parts of the plant contain up to 60 biologically active alkaloids. Modern research showed that indeed this flower contains substances that reduce blood sugar. And the alkaloids vinblastine and vincristine formed the basis of anticancer drugs that are used in modern medicine. All kinds of infusions and decoctions are prepared from the leaves and shoots of the catharanthus, which treat many diseases, such as:

  • poorly healing wounds and trophic ulcers;
  • fibroids, polyps, prostate adenomas;
  • diseases of the teeth and gums;
  • broncho-pulmonary diseases;
  • hypertension and diabetes.

It is important to know that all parts of the catharanthus are poisonous. It is not recommended to prepare any medicine from it yourself! May occur side effects, allergic reactions, burns. There are contraindications. It is possible to use preparations from catharanthus only under the supervision and on the recommendation of doctors.

All decorative series of varieties and hybrids of this flower are a variety of pink catharanthus. They differ from it in the size of the bush and different shades of petals. We will introduce you to the most popular of them.

Quaranthus Aristocrat. This is a low bush, 50 cm in height. The flowers are relatively large - up to 5 cm in diameter. The color range is varied - from pure white to dark red. In the middle, a contrast eye usually sparkles. This flower is grown not only as a houseplant, but also as a garden plant, decorating them with borders in flower beds and paths.

Quaranthus Pacifica. This is a low compact bush, 25 - 30 cm in height, and 15 - 20 cm in crown diameter. It is characterized by early flowering and unpretentious care. The flowers are large, a characteristic eye in the middle stands out brightly.

Depending on the shade of the petals, the Pacifica variety has its own varieties:

  • Pacific Burgundy - has rich wine-colored flowers with a white eye;
  • Pacifica White - has flowers white color with a red eye;
  • Pacifica Epricot - has apricot-colored flowers with a red center;
  • Pacifica Ice Pink - has pale pink flowers with a red eye.

In the 1980s, there appeared whole line new spectacular varieties of catharanthus. Here are some of the popular ones so far:

Variety series Cooler (Culer). Small strongly branching bushes, up to 40 cm in height, united here. Their flowers are round, large, up to 5 cm in diameter. With a bright contrast eye in the center.

The varieties in this series include:

  • Grape Cooler - lavender-pink flowers with a red center;
  • Peppermint Cooler - white flowers with a bright red center;
  • Red Cooler - red flowers.

Sortoseriya First Kiss (First Kiss, First kiss). Low, 30 - 40 cm in height, neat bushes, have a beautiful crown and at least 13 shades of flowers. This is the most popular and titled series of catharanthus. At flower growers' competitions in North America, the catharanthus of this variety series won prestigious prizes, in particular, the blue-violet cultivar First Kiss Blueberry won high awards in the USA and Canada.

Variety series Cascade (Cascade). Here are ampelous catharanthus, up to 15 cm high and with long flexible shoots that either creep or hang down. blooms large flowers, up to 5 cm in diameter. The most popular varieties of this variety series:

Quaranthus ampelous Titan. Long whips hanging down reach 75 cm in length. Numerous bright red flowers burn brightly on dark green glossy leaves. This variety is excellent for growing in pots.

  • White - with snow-white flowers;
  • Deep Rose - with pink flowers;
  • Bark cascade Cherry - with cherry flowers;
  • Bark cascade Shelf Dot - with white flowers;
  • Bark cascade Mejent - with flowers of gray - burgundy color.

When growing catharanthus at home, it is important to follow some simple rules so that you have a wonderful evergreen bush.

All parts of the catharanthus are poisonous and contain alkaloids. Work with it must be carried out with gloves to avoid allergies or poisoning.

Kataranthus is a moisture-loving culture. Abundant flowering directly depends on the sufficiently high humidity of the ambient air and substrate. Quaranthus prefer high humidity. If humidity readings fall below 60%, spraying of the surrounding air and, with care, the plants themselves is necessary. Moreover, the leaves can be sprayed, but the flowers are not desirable! To increase the humidity in the room, place containers with water next to the catharanthus plantings, and place the pots themselves in trays with wet expanded clay or wet pebbles.

Water your flowers regularly. Drying of the root system must not be allowed! You will immediately know about insufficient watering by the twisting leaves of the plant. If you quickly notice and soon water, they will straighten out.

But there should be no stagnation of water in the pan and waterlogging of the soil. Try to choose the frequency of watering so that the soil moisture is consistently average. Water before it dries upper layer soil to a depth of 2 - 3 cm. If you plan to keep the plant until next year, significantly reduce watering in the autumn-winter period. Keep the earth ball slightly damp. If the air in the room is dry, spray the leaves constantly.

The plant prefers diffused light. On the windowsills of the eastern and western directions, he will be most comfortable. Although, on the south side, provided the pot is protected from direct sunlight at noon, the catharanthus will feel great. Not required to post flower pot on the very windowsill. It grows well in a small shade and looks great on a shelf illuminated by scattered sunlight. Under the condition of wintering indoors, he will also need good lighting. Otherwise, the stems will stretch upwards, and the decorative effect of the flower will suffer. If there is insufficient lighting, use fluorescent lamps.

The ideal temperature for growing catharanthus at home is 20 - 25 degrees Celsius. This is in the spring and summer for the long-term maintenance of the flower. In winter, it is necessary for him to find a cooler place and maintain the temperature there within 15 degrees, because he has no place on the windowsill, next to heating appliances. Perhaps you have an insulated loggia. But, it is necessary to ensure that the temperature does not decrease at all - a long decrease in it, below 10 degrees, may not endure the catharanthus.

If you are not going to keep the flower in the winter and plan to throw it away in the fall, after flowering, then the warmer the location, the more abundant it will bloom for you. Moreover, the flower feels great in the warm season on outdoors. In the spring, as soon as the air outside warms up above 18 degrees, the catharanthus pot can be put on a balcony or veranda, preferably under a roof, because flower planting must be protected from rain, drafts and direct sun. With the first cold snap, in August-September, it is better to bring the catharanthus into the living quarters. Until October, he will still delight you with his magnificent flowering on the windowsill.

Good catharanthus will grow in a loose lung fertile soil. Purchased land for flowering houseplants, for example, for geraniums, is suitable for him. It is also not difficult to prepare the soil mixture on your own from leaf and sod land, adding a little peat and coarse river sand there.

In order for the flowering of the catharanthus to be long and plentiful, it needs constant, fairly intensive top dressing. If your flower is an annual, feed it once a week by adding liquid fertilizer for flowering houseplants to the water for irrigation. Suitable liquid fertilizer for indoor roses. But do not overdo it, read the doses on the package.

If the catharanthus after flowering will be preserved as a perennial, its strength must be preserved. Therefore, top dressing should be done during flowering less often, once every 2 weeks, and at a dose reduced by half. After flowering, from October to February, top dressing should be stopped altogether.

Quaranthus is a fast growing flower. If you plant it in a small pot, it will outgrow it very soon, the roots won't fit and will block the drainage holes. Therefore, choose a large pot right away, so that it is enough for a year of the flower's life. As we wrote above, the root system is developing well, the roots grow up to 20 - 35 cm in length. Lay a good layer of drainage, 3-4 cm, on the bottom of the planting tank. Use expanded clay, pebbles or other suitable material. And then fill the pot with the prepared soil mixture. Do not forget to add a little humus for nutrition. During the annual transplant of perennial catharanthus, each time choose a pot 3 - 5 cm larger and wider than before.

For such fast growing plant, like cataranthus, pruning of shoots is a necessary procedure. In a perennial culture, after a period of winter rest, the shoots stretched out over the winter are cut off by a third of their length. Remove damaged and dried branches, give the bush the desired shape. This pruning in early spring will rejuvenate the flower, give it strength for new growth.

Pinching the ends of the shoots will help to form a compact beautiful crown of a young catharanthus. Their upward growth will stop, and the growth of side branches will make the crown thicker and more decorative.

But watch out decorative look your pet during flowering will have to constantly. Withered flowers and yellowed leaves at the bottom of the shoots must be cleaned regularly - they greatly spoil the appearance of the plant.

If you grow catharanthus as a perennial, then it will need an annual transplant in early spring, in March.

Return the flower to a warm, bright room. Look around. Make the desired cut. Pick up a pot for transplanting 3 - 5 cm more than before. Put drainage there - it should be at least 4 cm. Do the transplant by transshipping the flower along with the ground. Try not to injure the root system. Add soil of the same composition to the pot in which the catharanthus grew last season. If the soil is very different in composition, the flower may not bloom. According to the reaction, the soil is neutral or slightly sour. Keep this in mind and always use one type of soil, for example, for flowering geraniums.

You may need to repot your flower more than once a year. If during the active phase of flowering the lower leaves suddenly began to turn yellow and the flowers fall off - Perhaps the root system no longer has enough space in the pot. You can see the roots sticking out drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. This is a signal that the catharanthus urgently needs to be transplanted into a large container.

If the catharanthus is difficult to remove from the pot, try watering it. The plastic pot may need to be cut or broken, but when removing the flower, be careful not to damage its delicate root system. Otherwise, the catharanthus will stop blooming.

If all the rules good care for a flower you will regularly perform, then the catharanthus will also try and stun you with its fantastic flowering!

We recommend not keeping your perennial for more than three years. Any catharanthus of this age begins to grow, its flowers become small, the shoots are clumsy. The plant loses its attractiveness and decorative effect. It is better to part with him, having taken care of his descendants in advance, that is, about reproduction.

After the enchanting flowering, the forces of the catharanthus are depleted, and you need to try to make it bloom again the next year. For this reason, flower growers often grow catharanthus as an annual plant, and after flowering is over, they are simply thrown away. After all, the difficulties of preserving a flower in winter, problems with temperature, humidity, and lighting of its wintering place cannot be compared with the rooting of its shoots or cuttings. By the beginning of the new season, you will have a new flower full of strength and desire to bloom without any problems.

Catharanthus is propagated in three ways: growing from seeds, rooting cuttings and dividing the bush.

Purchase catharanthus seeds in specialty stores. Their seeds during the summer flowering will not have time to ripen. Their natural maturation is possible only in tropical conditions. If you still set out to get your seeds - be patient. The bush will have to be grown all autumn and winter at room conditions, maintaining a constant temperature, humidity and good lighting, as in the tropics. Your seeds will ripen, perhaps only by spring.

Seeds can be sown at any time of the year. Just keep in mind that the catharanthus blooms after germination in 60 - 70 days, that is, young bushes will bloom in two to three months. Therefore, it is better, in terms of caring for them - in terms of temperature, humidity and lighting, to do this in early spring.

Prepared seeds (treated with potassium permanganate and epin) are sown in containers with nutrient soil to a depth of not more than 1 cm. The soil is gently moistened with a spray bottle with warm settled water, the container lid is closed. You can use any containers convenient for you, but be sure to cover them with something transparent - glass or polyethylene. Germination will be best done in a warm, dark place. In a week or two shoots will appear. Containers are taken out to a lighted place. The temperature is maintained at 23 - 26 degrees Celsius. Air once a day, preferably in the morning. Sprouts for a long time, about a month, sit at the same level - they grow roots. When three or four leaves appear on the seedlings, the catharanthus dive into separate pots. Do not forget about the rapid growth of the young, immediately take a pot of a large size than you would like, so that soon, during flowering, you do not have to replant the flower again.

Pay special attention to the preparation of the soil mixture. An excellent option is a mixture of peat, humus, soddy soil and coarse sand in equal proportions. If you use ready-made soil, choose a substrate suitable for flowering indoor flowers.

For propagation by cuttings (cuttings), green cuttings are cut from the tops of the shoots near the catharanthus. Choose the method of rooting the cutting - in water or in the substrate.

Water for rooting is taken settled or boiled with the addition of some kind of growth stimulant. Put the glass in a bright warm place. Waiting for the appearance of the spine. As needed, add water. Roots will appear very soon. Then the stalk is planted in a pot with a regular substrate. Take care of like an adult plant.

You can root the cuttings in a container with moist soil under the film. Air plantings from time to time, as the soil dries, water them. When signs of new growth appear on the handle, the film can be removed. Root cuttings with a margin, in case of their death.

Harvesting and planting cuttings is best in the spring, after pruning the old bush. But you can do it in the fall too. The optimum temperature for rooting catharanthus cuttings is 22 - 25 degrees Celsius.

Video: how to propagate catharanthus cuttings.

This method of reproduction is used during the transplantation of an adult plant into new pots. Usually, it happens in early spring. Depending on the size of the root system, the catharanthus can be easily divided into two or three parts. Remove the flower from the pot, try to gently shake the soil from the roots. Decide on the place of division of the root system. Use a sharp, well-disinfected tool to divide the bush. Treat the incision sites with crushed activated charcoal. Plant each specimen in a separate pot according to all the rules.

If you are planting your indoor flower in a summer cottage in a flower bed for the summer, then you need to think about how to save the catharanthus in winter. After all, your sissy will not survive the winter, even mild, on the street. Carefully dig up the plant in early October. Trim the branches two-thirds of the way. Place the flower in a spacious pot to fit the entire root system. Fill the pot to the top with a mixture of sand and earth. Bring in a cool room with a temperature of 15 - 17 degrees. Try to find one for the winter in the apartment. Let him stand there until the onset of spring and warmth. It does not need to be watered in winter. When the air outside warms up above 18 degrees, the rhizome of the catharanthus can be planted again in a flower bed.

You can always determine by the appearance of the plant whether it is healthy or something is wrong with it. Catharanthus to his appearance he himself signals the unfavorable conditions of his detention. The plant must be monitored, and, if necessary, take measures to correct their mistakes.

Consider the most common problems of growing catharanthus.

  • Small dark bumps or spots appeared on the upper surface of the leaves. On the bottom - something in the form of pustules. These are signs of the disease of many indoor flowers - leaf rust. The reason is frequent waterlogging of the soil at high humidity. Or when transplanting, a heavy or rust-infected soil was used. Treatment is carried out with fungicides (read about indoor flower diseases). Transplant the treated plant into new soil.
  • The leaves on the shoots became lethargic, turned yellow and fell off. This happens if the pot is on a window sill that is not protected from the sun. Set the flower to the back of the room or protect it from direct sunlight with blinds or curtains.
  • The tips of the leaves turned yellow. This happens when the humidity in the room is too low. In winter this is due to the central heating. The pot must be placed in a tall pan with wet expanded clay and set aside from the heaters. Next to the flower, you can place a wide container of water. If there are no flowers on the catharanthus, its leaves should be sprayed with settled water at room temperature. All this should increase the humidity in the room. The tips of the leaves of the catharanthus will stop turning yellow.
  • The lower leaves on the shoots turn yellow and fall off. it natural process for the catharthus. Remove them regularly from the plant so that the decorative effect of the flower does not suffer.
  • There are few flowers on your catharanthus. Poor flowering usually happens if the catharanthus is cold. Move the flower pot to a warmer, brighter place - and he will thank you with abundant flowering.
  • The leaves begin to turn yellow, flowering stops. Examine the flower pot. If it is not large, if the roots of the catharanthus appeared from the drainage holes, it means that your pet has become cramped in this pot and it's time to transplant it into a wider and deeper flowerpot. It will take a little time, and the plant will come to life and begin to bloom.
  • The quarantus began dropping buds. This happens when there is insufficient attention to the flower: poor lighting, lack of moisture in the soil or low air humidity.
  • Young leaves are falling from the tops of the shoots. Perhaps you rarely water the flower, it lacks moisture. At the same time, check other nuances of care: whether it is warm, light, and whether any insects bite it.

We introduced you to indoor flower catharanthus. Believe that you will spend less time caring for him than reading this article! It's quite unpretentious plant, but so sweet and responsive to any attention to him from the grower. Kataranthus is good because this small, compact bush blooms profusely with bright acrylic flowers from spring to October. At the same time, it grows quickly and multiplies easily. Knowing the simple rules for caring for it, you will always have a grateful plant in your house, ready to decorate the interior of your house all year round.

Apr 02 2017

Quarantus - care and reproduction at home

Everyone who has seen a catharanthus indoor plant will agree that this spectacular bush, strewn with delightful numerous flowers, clearly brings the comfort and warmth of the southern islands of the Mediterranean into the house. Its name is translated from Greek as "pure, clear or flawless flower." In this article, you will read about growing catharanthus and caring for it at home. Many flower growers consider him the king of indoor flowering bushes, because the catharanthus pleases its owners with endless flowering almost all year round, and requires minimal care from them after planting.

The catharanthus flower (Catharanthus) belongs to the evergreen herbaceous and semi-shrub plants of the Kutrovye family (Apocynaceae). In the wild, it can be found everywhere in tropical countries. These are Cuba, Java, Africa, Indochina, Indonesia - it's impossible to list them all. It is not possible to accurately determine its homeland, although many scientists are inclined to Madagascar, where it is most common. There are seven or eight of its species. In the subtropics, the catharanthus grows up to one and a half meters in height. At home, this bush does not exceed 60 cm. As a houseplant, catharanthus has been bred since the middle of the 18th century.

For a long time, the catharanthus was considered one of the varieties of another flower - pink periwinkle. These plants are very similar. Both belong to the Kutrov family. Only since 1937, after lengthy disputes, did botanists begin to attribute the pink catharanthus (Catharanthus roseus), as a species of evergreen perennial shrubs, to a separate genus of Catharanthus.

Indoor flower catharanthus is a perennial plant, often grown as an annual. In height at home, it grows no higher than 50 - 60 cm. Its upright stems are fleshy, branch at the tops, and become woody over time. The roots are powerful, pivotal. The central root reaches a depth of 20-30 cm, there are many lateral adventitious roots that have a strong specific smell. Young roots lack root hairs. The leaves of the catharanthus are oblong in shape, pointed at both ends, and up to 7 cm long. They are glossy, dark green in color, with a white longitudinal vein. During flowering, the entire bush is covered with many wheel-shaped flowers. Catharanthus flowers are 3 to 5 cm in diameter. They have the correct shape of five petals with a flat corolla, the throat of which is covered with thyroid hairs. In the center of each flower there is a peephole, usually of a bright contrasting color. There are hybrids with white, orange, light lilac, blue-violet petals. Catharanthus flowers are very similar to phlox flowers, but they are solitary, while in phlox they are collected in inflorescences. But, during active flowering, from May to October, such a magnificent hat is formed from separately blooming flowers that the decorativeness of the flower at this time is beyond praise. Long flowering ends with the onset of cold weather. After flowering, the fruit of the catharanthus is formed, which is a sickle-shaped two-leaflet, inside which about a dozen elongated seeds are formed.

Medicinal properties

The catharanthus plant is valued not only for its spectacular appearance and decorativeness. Its medicinal properties have been known since ancient times. Healers and healers of Madagascar and Indonesia used catharanthus to treat diabetes, coughs and various tumors. The green parts of the plant contain up to 60 biologically active alkaloids. Modern research has shown that indeed this flower contains substances that reduce blood sugar. And the alkaloids vinblastine and vincristine formed the basis of anticancer drugs that are used in modern medicine. All kinds of infusions and decoctions are prepared from the leaves and shoots of the catharanthus, which treat many diseases, such as:

  • poorly healing wounds and trophic ulcers;
  • fibroids, polyps, prostate adenomas;
  • diseases of the teeth and gums;
  • broncho-pulmonary diseases;
  • hypertension and diabetes.

It is important to know that all parts of the catharanthus are poisonous. It is not recommended to prepare any medicine from it yourself! Side effects, allergic reactions, burns may occur. There are contraindications. It is possible to use preparations from catharanthus only under the supervision and on the recommendation of doctors.

Species and varieties

All decorative series of varieties and hybrids of this flower are a variety of pink catharanthus. They differ from it in the size of the bush and different shades of petals. We will introduce you to the most popular of them.

This is a low bush, 50 cm in height. The flowers are relatively large - up to 5 cm in diameter. The color range is varied - from pure white to dark red. In the middle, a contrast eye usually sparkles. This flower is grown not only as a houseplant, but also as a garden plant, decorating them with borders in flower beds and paths.

This is a low compact bush, 25 - 30 cm in height, and 15 - 20 cm in crown diameter. It is characterized by early flowering and unpretentious care. The flowers are large, a characteristic eye in the middle stands out brightly.

Depending on the shade of the petals, the Pacifica variety has its own varieties:

  • Pacific Burgundy - has rich wine-colored flowers with a white eye;
  • Pacific White - has white flowers with a red eye;
  • Pacifica Epricot - has apricot-colored flowers with a red center;
  • Pacifica Ice Pink - has pale pink flowers with a red eye.

In the eighties of the last century, a number of new spectacular varieties of catharanthus appeared. Here are some of the popular ones so far:

Variety series Cooler (Culer). Small strongly branching bushes, up to 40 cm in height, united here. Their flowers are round, large, up to 5 cm in diameter. With a bright contrast eye in the center.

The varieties in this series include:

  • Grape Cooler - lavender-pink flowers with a red center;
  • Peppermint Cooler - white flowers with a bright red center;
  • Red Cooler - red flowers.

Sortoseriya First Kiss (First Kiss, First kiss). Low, 30 - 40 cm in height, neat bushes, have a beautiful crown and at least 13 shades of flowers. This is the most popular and titled series of catharanthus. At flower growers' competitions in North America, the catharanthus of this variety series won prestigious prizes, in particular, the blue-violet cultivar First Kiss Blueberry won high awards in the USA and Canada.

Variety series Cascade (Cascade). Here are ampelous catharanthus, up to 15 cm high and with long flexible shoots that either creep or hang down. It blooms with large flowers, up to 5 cm in diameter. The most popular varieties of this variety series:

Quaranthus ampelous Titan. Long whips hanging down reach 75 cm in length. Numerous bright red flowers burn brightly on dark green glossy leaves. This variety is excellent for growing in pots.

  • White - with snow-white flowers;
  • Deep Rose - with pink flowers;
  • Bark cascade Cherry - with cherry flowers;
  • Bark cascade Shelf Dot - with white flowers;
  • Bark cascade Mejent - with flowers of gray - burgundy color.

Home Care

When growing catharanthus at home, it is important to follow some simple rules so that you have a wonderful evergreen bush.

All parts of the catharanthus are poisonous and contain alkaloids. Work with it must be carried out with gloves to avoid allergies or poisoning.

Humidity, spraying, watering

Kataranthus is a moisture-loving culture. Abundant flowering directly depends on the sufficiently high humidity of the ambient air and substrate. Quaranthus prefer high humidity. If humidity readings fall below 60%, spraying of the surrounding air and, with care, the plants themselves is necessary. Moreover, the leaves can be sprayed, but the flowers are not desirable! To increase the humidity in the room, place containers with water next to the catharanthus plantings, and place the pots themselves in trays with wet expanded clay or wet pebbles.

Water your flowers regularly. Drying of the root system must not be allowed! You will immediately know about insufficient watering by the twisting leaves of the plant. If you quickly notice and soon water, they will straighten out.

But there should be no stagnation of water in the pan and waterlogging of the soil. Try to choose the frequency of watering so that the soil moisture is consistently average. Water no earlier than the topsoil dries to a depth of 2 - 3 cm. If you plan to keep the plant until next year, significantly reduce watering in the autumn-winter period. Keep the earth ball slightly damp. If the air in the room is dry, spray the leaves constantly.

Lighting

The plant prefers diffused light. On the windowsills of the eastern and western directions, he will be most comfortable. Although, on the south side, provided the pot is protected from direct sunlight at noon, the catharanthus will feel great. It is not necessary to place the flower pot on the windowsill itself. It grows well in a small shade and looks great on a shelf illuminated by scattered sunlight. Under the condition of wintering indoors, he will also need good lighting. Otherwise, the stems will stretch upwards, and the decorative effect of the flower will suffer. If there is insufficient lighting, use fluorescent lamps.

Temperature

The ideal temperature for growing catharanthus at home is 20 - 25 degrees Celsius. This is in the spring and summer for the long-term maintenance of the flower. In winter, it is necessary for him to find a cooler place and maintain the temperature there within 15 degrees, because he has no place on the windowsill, next to heating appliances. Perhaps you have an insulated loggia. But, it is necessary to ensure that the temperature does not decrease at all - a long decrease in it, below 10 degrees, may not endure the catharanthus.

If you are not going to keep the flower in the winter and plan to throw it away in the fall, after flowering, then the warmer the location, the more abundant it will bloom for you. Moreover, the flower feels great in the warm season in the open air. In the spring, as soon as the air outside warms up above 18 degrees, the catharanthus pot can be placed on a balcony or veranda, preferably under a roof, because flower plantings must be protected from precipitation, drafts and direct sun. With the first cold snap, in August-September, it is better to bring the catharanthus into the living quarters. Until October, he will still delight you with his magnificent flowering on the windowsill.

Soil and top dressing

Well kataranthus will grow in loose light fertile soil. Purchased land for flowering houseplants, for example, for geraniums, is suitable for him. It is also not difficult to prepare the soil mixture on your own from leaf and sod land, adding a little peat and coarse river sand there.

In order for the flowering of the catharanthus to be long and plentiful, it needs constant, fairly intensive top dressing. If your flower is an annual, feed it once a week by adding liquid fertilizer for flowering houseplants to the water for irrigation. Suitable liquid fertilizer for indoor roses. But do not overdo it, read the doses on the package.

If the catharanthus after flowering will be preserved as a perennial, its strength must be preserved. Therefore, top dressing should be done during flowering less often, once every 2 weeks, and at a dose reduced by half. After flowering, from October to February, top dressing should be stopped altogether.

The right size pot

Quaranthus is a fast growing flower. If you plant it in a small pot, it will outgrow it very soon, the roots won't fit and will block the drainage holes. Therefore, choose a large pot right away, so that it is enough for a year of the flower's life. As we wrote above, the root system is developing well, the roots grow up to 20 - 35 cm in length. Lay a good drainage layer, 3-4 cm, on the bottom of the planting tank. Use expanded clay, pebbles or other suitable material. And then fill the pot with the prepared soil mixture. Do not forget to add a little humus for nutrition. During the annual transplant of perennial catharanthus, each time choose a pot 3 - 5 cm larger and wider than before.

Pruning and shaping the bush

For such a fast-growing plant as catharanthus, pruning of shoots is a necessary procedure. In a perennial culture, after a period of winter rest, the shoots stretched out over the winter are cut off by a third of their length. Remove damaged and dried branches, give the bush the desired shape. This pruning in early spring will rejuvenate the flower, give it strength for new growth.

Pinching the ends of the shoots will help to form a compact beautiful crown of a young catharanthus. Their upward growth will stop, and the growth of side branches will make the crown thicker and more decorative.

But you will have to constantly monitor the decorative appearance of your pet during flowering. Withered flowers and yellowed leaves at the bottom of the shoots must be cleaned regularly - they greatly spoil the appearance of the plant.

Transfer

If you grow catharanthus as a perennial, then it will need an annual transplant in early spring, in March.

Return the flower to a warm, bright room. Look around. Make the desired cut. Pick up a pot for transplanting 3 - 5 cm more than before. Put drainage there - it should be at least 4 cm. Do the transplant by transshipping the flower along with the ground. Try not to injure the root system. Add soil of the same composition to the pot in which the catharanthus grew last season. If the soil is very different in composition, the flower may not bloom. According to the reaction, the soil is neutral or slightly sour. Keep this in mind and always use one type of soil, for example, for flowering geraniums.

You may need to repot your flower more than once a year. If during the active phase of flowering the lower leaves suddenly began to turn yellow and the flowers fall off - Perhaps the root system no longer has enough space in the pot. You can see the roots sticking out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. This is a signal that the catharanthus urgently needs to be transplanted into a large container.

If the catharanthus is difficult to remove from the pot, try watering it. The plastic pot may need to be cut or broken, but when removing the flower, be careful not to damage its delicate root system. Otherwise, the catharanthus will stop blooming.

If you regularly follow all the rules of good flower care, then the catharanthus will also try and stun you with its fantastic flowering!

We recommend not keeping your perennial for more than three years. Any catharanthus of this age begins to grow, its flowers become small, the shoots are clumsy. The plant loses its attractiveness and decorative effect. It is better to part with him, having taken care of his descendants in advance, that is, about reproduction.

reproduction

After the enchanting flowering, the forces of the catharanthus are depleted, and you need to try to make it bloom again the next year. For this reason, flower growers often grow catharanthus as an annual plant, and after flowering is over, they are simply thrown away. After all, the difficulties of preserving a flower in winter, problems with temperature, humidity, and lighting of its wintering place cannot be compared with the rooting of its shoots or cuttings. By the beginning of the new season, you will have a new flower full of strength and desire to bloom without any problems.

Catharanthus is propagated in three ways: growing from seeds, rooting cuttings and dividing the bush.

Growing from seeds

Purchase catharanthus seeds in specialty stores. Their seeds during the summer flowering will not have time to ripen. Their natural ripening is possible only in tropical conditions. If you still set out to get your seeds - be patient. The bush will have to be grown all autumn and winter at room conditions, maintaining a constant temperature, humidity and good lighting, as in the tropics. Your seeds will ripen, perhaps only by spring.

Seeds can be sown at any time of the year. Just keep in mind that the catharanthus blooms after germination in 60 - 70 days, that is, young bushes will bloom in two to three months. Therefore, it is better, in terms of caring for them - in terms of temperature, humidity and lighting, to do this in early spring.

Prepared seeds (treated with potassium permanganate and epin) are sown in containers with nutrient soil to a depth of not more than 1 cm. The soil is gently moistened with a spray bottle with warm settled water, the container lid is closed. You can use any containers convenient for you, but be sure to cover them with something transparent - glass or polyethylene. Germination will be best done in a warm, dark place. In a week or two shoots will appear. Containers are taken out to a lighted place. The temperature is maintained at 23 - 26 degrees Celsius. Air once a day, preferably in the morning. Sprouts for a long time, about a month, sit at the same level - they grow roots. When three or four leaves appear on the seedlings, the catharanthus dive into separate pots. Do not forget about the rapid growth of the young, immediately take a pot of a large size than you would like, so that soon, during flowering, you do not have to replant the flower again.

Pay special attention to the preparation of the soil mixture. An excellent option is a mixture of peat, humus, soddy soil and coarse sand in equal proportions. If you use ready-made soil, choose a substrate suitable for flowering indoor flowers.

Reproduction by cuttings

For propagation by cuttings (cuttings), green cuttings are cut from the tops of the shoots near the catharanthus. Choose the method of rooting the cutting - in water or in the substrate.

Water for rooting is taken settled or boiled with the addition of some kind of growth stimulant. Put the glass in a bright warm place. Waiting for the appearance of the spine. As needed, add water. Roots will appear very soon. Then the stalk is planted in a pot with a regular substrate. Take care of like an adult plant.

You can root the cuttings in a container with moist soil under the film. Air plantings from time to time, as the soil dries, water them. When signs of new growth appear on the handle, the film can be removed. Root cuttings with a margin, in case of their death.

Harvesting and planting cuttings is best in the spring, after pruning the old bush. But you can do it in the fall too. The optimum temperature for rooting catharanthus cuttings is 22 - 25 degrees Celsius.

Video: how to propagate catharanthus cuttings.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

This method of reproduction is used during the transplantation of an adult plant into new pots. Usually, it happens in early spring. Depending on the size of the root system, the catharanthus can be easily divided into two or three parts. Remove the flower from the pot, try to gently shake the soil from the roots. Decide on the place of division of the root system. Use a sharp, well-disinfected tool to divide the bush. Treat the incision sites with crushed activated charcoal. Plant each specimen in a separate pot according to all the rules.

Organization of wintering

If you are planting your indoor flower in a summer cottage in a flower bed for the summer, then you need to think about how to save the catharanthus in winter. After all, your sissy will not survive the winter, even mild, on the street. Carefully dig up the plant in early October. Trim the branches two-thirds of the way. Place the flower in a spacious pot to fit the entire root system. Fill the pot to the top with a mixture of sand and earth. Bring in a cool room with a temperature of 15 - 17 degrees. Try to find one for the winter in the apartment. Let him stand there until the onset of spring and warmth. It does not need to be watered in winter. When the air outside warms up above 18 degrees, the rhizome of the catharanthus can be planted again in a flower bed.

Possible Growing Problems

You can always determine by the appearance of the plant whether it is healthy or something is wrong with it. The catharanthus, by its appearance, itself signals the unfavorable conditions of its maintenance. The plant must be monitored, and, if necessary, take measures to correct their mistakes.

Consider the most common problems of growing catharanthus.

Diseases

  • Small dark bumps or spots appeared on the upper surface of the leaves. On the bottom - something in the form of pustules. These are signs of the disease of many indoor flowers - leaf rust. The reason is frequent waterlogging of the soil at high humidity. Or when transplanting, a heavy or rust-infected soil was used. Treatment is carried out with fungicides (read about). Transplant the treated plant into new soil.
  • The leaves on the shoots became lethargic, turned yellow and fell off. This happens if the pot is on a window sill that is not protected from the sun. Set the flower to the back of the room or protect it from direct sunlight with blinds or curtains.
  • The tips of the leaves turned yellow. This happens when the humidity in the room is too low. In winter this is due to the central heating. The pot must be placed in a tall pan with wet expanded clay and set aside from the heaters. Next to the flower, you can place a wide container of water. If there are no flowers on the catharanthus, its leaves should be sprayed with settled water at room temperature. All this should increase the humidity in the room. The tips of the leaves of the catharanthus will stop turning yellow.
  • The lower leaves on the shoots turn yellow and fall off. This is a natural process for a catharanthus. Remove them regularly from the plant so that the decorative effect of the flower does not suffer.
  • There are few flowers on your catharanthus. Poor flowering usually happens if the catharanthus is cold. Move the flower pot to a warmer, brighter place - and he will thank you with abundant flowering.
  • The leaves begin to turn yellow, flowering stops. Examine the flower pot. If it is not large, if the roots of the catharanthus appeared from the drainage holes, it means that your pet has become cramped in this pot and it's time to transplant it into a wider and deeper flowerpot. It will take a little time, and the plant will come to life and begin to bloom.
  • The quarantus began dropping buds. This happens when there is insufficient attention to the flower: poor lighting, lack of moisture in the soil or low air humidity.
  • Young leaves are falling from the tops of the shoots. Perhaps you rarely water the flower, it lacks moisture. At the same time, check other nuances of care: whether it is warm, light, and whether any insects bite it.

Insects - pests

We introduced you to the catharanthus indoor flower. Believe that you will spend less time caring for him than reading this article! This is a completely unpretentious plant, but so sweet and responsive to any attention to it from the grower. Kataranthus is good because this small, compact bush blooms profusely with bright acrylic flowers from spring to October. At the same time, it grows quickly and multiplies easily. Knowing the simple rules for caring for it, you will always have a grateful plant in your house, ready to decorate the interior of your house all year round.

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Flowers can radically transform the backyard. There are many ornamental plants. But exotic options are in special demand today. For example, a catharanthus. It impresses with its bright and unusual flowering. How is the cultivation of catharanthus: when to plant, how to care for the crop - the article will tell about this.

Kataranthus or periwinkle is a representative of the Kutrov family. The island of Madagascar is recognized as the homeland. It is a tropical shrub. In Russia, growing ampelous catharanthus is not an easy task. After all, this culture is very capricious, it needs to create certain conditions, constant attention.

The height of the bush reaches 60 centimeters. The trunk is erect, well branched. The leaves are evergreen, have an oblong-lanceolate shape. Their length is about 7 centimeters. The plate is decorated with a glossy sheen. There is a white vein in the center.

What varieties are suitable for seed cultivation?

Many different varieties of periwinkle are known. Most of them are interspecific hybrids. Thanks to the constant work of breeders, today there are plants on sale that look very compact, bloom profusely and are presented in different shades. There are purple, lilac, crimson, red and blue specimens. But pink catharanthus is more common than others.

Below are the most popular varieties of periwinkle:


What methods of reproduction exist?

If you want periwinkle or catharanthus to flaunt in the garden or on the windowsill: cultivation must be carried out correctly. You can buy a young culture in the store. Or try to reproduce it yourself. It is not difficult at all, so even a beginner can handle it.

There are such breeding options for periwinkle:

  1. Seminal. The choice of seeds of this crop is quite wide. They are large and dark brown in appearance. The seed usually germinates within a week. Landing is done in early spring.
  2. Cuttings. This method will require a catharanthus. A stalk is cut from the top of it and immersed in water. The procedure is carried out in the spring. In good weather, the shoots quickly give roots. Then they are planted in the ground.
  3. Shrub division. Mature plants lend themselves well to division. Separated bushes quickly grow and adapt to a new place. Keep delenki at home or on the street.

How to grow periwinkle?

Gardeners growing catharanthus from seeds is most often used. The main thing is to buy material from reliable, proven companies. Further, it all depends on the grower: the correct sowing of seeds, planting, care.

Sowing seeds for seedlings

The seeds are sown in February. Growing catharanthus from seeds at home, one must understand that the root zone tends to grow strongly. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a larger capacity. The flower prefers saline soil. It is easy to prepare such a mixture yourself from peat, humus, turf and sand. Put the prepared soil in the box. Seeds are planted to a depth of 2 centimeters. shelter plastic wrap. It is important to maintain the temperature at +25 degrees. After two weeks, shoots should appear. After that, the pot is transferred to a cooler place. It is important to provide good lighting. With a shortage of sunlight, a lamp is used.

As soon as 3 true leaves appear, a pick is performed: the plants are planted in separate containers. In good warm weather, seedlings are taken out to the balcony.

When the periwinkle reaches a height of 10 centimeters, pinch it, then the bush will grow more magnificent.

Terms and features of planting catharanthus seedlings in open ground

Catharanthus seedlings are very tender, instantly reacting to temperature fluctuations. Therefore, they are transplanted into open ground in late spring, when the threat of frost has passed. This is approximately the month of May. The temperature should be around +20 degrees outside. Before disembarkation prepare a place. To do this, dig a hole and add a small amount of expanded clay and fine gravel. Next, a mound is poured from the earth and placed on it young plant. Sprinkle with soil mixture and lightly press down. After the planting procedure, water moderately.

It should be noted that the periwinkle goes well with low annual plants. For example, with lobelia, petunias, marigolds. With perennial purslane catharanthus also looks very harmonious.

By planting several types of crops nearby, you can create a unique composition.

Activities for the care of plants in the garden

On the street, regular spraying of bushes is shown to increase the level of humidity. It is important not to allow the substrate to dry out. If there is a moisture deficit, the leaf plate begins to curl. In rainy and cold weather, the plant tends to wilt, the flowers fly around. For resuscitation, you need to install an awning over the bush.

With the onset of the spring season, fertilizers begin to be applied. Universal preparations for decorative growing varieties are suitable for this purpose. A solution of ash is also useful. The frequency of top dressing is once every two weeks. Nutrients are applied immediately after irrigation. Foliar top dressings are also often used by gardeners. To do this, use the Epin-Extra solution. They spray a bush once a month. With the advent of autumn, fertilization is stopped.

The agricultural technique of growing catharanthus also involves pruning. All yellowed, broken shoots and leaves are removed. However, the culture should not be severely cut. On the open area the procedure is more sanitary in nature. It stimulates the formation of new shoots. This event is held in the summer. But in indoor breeding, pruning is needed so that the periwinkle does not stretch with one lash. After wintering, the tips of the shoots are removed. Pruning helps to stop flowering.

Periwinkle is recognized as one of the most popular ornamental crops. It is actively grown to decorate garden plots, bred in room conditions. The plant blooms profusely and very beautifully. But in order for the catharanthus to grow and develop well, it is important to provide it with appropriate conditions of detention. Check out the article: