Monstera - learning how to properly care for a tropical vine. Monstera: growing conditions, reproduction and care at home How to transplant a monstera at home

Monstera is a beautiful and very impressive plant. She fell in love with many florists for her unusual shapes and her unpretentiousness in terms of care. In the wild, this perennial plant is found in Central and South America, but today we will consider monstera as indoor plant and figure out how to take care of her at home.

Monstera description of a tropical plant

Monstera belongs to the genus Aroid. In total, in this family there are about fifty plants different in shape, structure and height. Monstera has creeping aerial stems, from which aerial roots sometimes hang, and a thick cob creates an inflorescence of the plant.

The leaves of the flower are dark green and glisten in the sun. At a certain stage of growth, holes are formed in them, which are then converted into slots. The shape of the leaves in almost all varieties is oval-heart-shaped, and their size can reach 90 cm in length. How monstera blooms can be seen in the wild, since at home this happens very rarely.

Monstera differs from other indoor plants in its rapid growth, which is why it needs a lot of space. It can be a wonderful decoration for heated winter gardens, where the plant feels just fine. It can also be found in many offices and country houses.

Did you know? The name of the flower comes from the Latin word monstrosus (amazing, bizarre), although some florists claim that the name comes from the word monstrum (monster).

Features of growing monstera at home

All indoor plants have their own growing characteristics, and the monstera is no exception in this regard (that is, the care of the plant and its cultivation should be carried out in accordance with established requirements). At home, they often grow delicacy or attractive monstera.

Choosing a location for successful growth

The best place to plant a plant like a monstera is a special stand. It should be placed on the west or east side of the window. However, it is worth protecting the flower from drafts so as not to provoke the appearance of diseases. Also, do not often rearrange it from place to place. Monstera does not really like direct exposure to sunlight, so it is impossible to place it on a window sill that is too lit: the lighting should be medium. The sun can cause burns to the flower, which leads to the formation of dark spots, and as a result, to the death of the plant.

Soil and capacity requirements for planting

For normal development flower, attention must be paid to the soil. Most often, it is bought in a store, but you can cook it yourself.

Monstera soil should include the following components:

• sod land;
• peat;
• humus;
• leafy earth;
• sand.

All these components should be taken in a ratio of 3: 1: 1: 1: 1. Such soil will perfectly absorb water and pass air. When choosing a pot for planting a flower, you need to consider the maximum parameters of the future plant. In a large pot, the monstera will quickly strengthen the root system and begin to develop quickly, but as soon as the plant reaches a large size, the roots begin to curl and wrap around in a circle. So that the monstera does not strangle itself, in the process of transplanting it is necessary to unravel and cut off the extra roots. If this is not done, the flower may dry out.

It is better to take a pot larger than the previous one by 2-4 cm in diameter. It must be stable and heavy.

Important! To support the monstera, you should use special tubes that are glued with artificial moss. So they will not violate the decorativeness of the plant.

How to plant a monstera at home: reproduction of a tropical vine

In order for the monstera to grow and develop well, it needs to be provided proper fit and care. Drainage should be laid out at the bottom of the pot, 5 cm thick, then fill the container with soil to ½ of its volume, then carefully position the plant without damaging its root system, and fill it with the remaining soil. At the end of planting, the flower is well watered.

Monstera can and should be propagated, and the methods of its reproduction are listed below.

Method 1. Reproduction of monstera by air layering

Each layer must have at least one aerial root and one leaf. The layering is moved to a separate container with a nutrient substrate, carefully watered and grown separately. Young cuttings are grown in the same way as the monstera itself at a temperature of +18 ... + 20 ° C, in diffused light and in a draft-free room.

Method 2. Propagation by cuttings

This method is the most labor intensive. To achieve a good result, it is worth using stem or lateral processes. The soil mixture for germinating cuttings can be made independently. To do this, you need sand and humus in equal amounts, but do not forget about drainage. The selected stalk is placed in a pot, sprinkled with soil mixture and heavily watered. After that, you need to cover the pot with glass and put it in a lighted place, but not in the sun. Watering plantings should be done twice a day. After the appearance of the first roots, the plant should be transplanted into separate pot and grow, observing all the rules.

Method 3. Propagation by seeds

This breeding method is the most practical, but also the longest. First of all, you will need fresh seeds, which you need to plant in a nutrient mixture and germinate in comfortable conditions within 30 days. The optimum temperature for seed germination is at least + 20 ° C, and the lighting should be shaded. After a month, the first shoots will begin to appear, and young plants with about 9-10 leaves can be seen after 2 years. Monstera grown in this way is considered the strongest and hardiest.

How to care for a monstera at home

As mentioned earlier, monstera is enough unpretentious plant, but despite this, care (as well as reproduction) must be carried out taking into account a number of mandatory rules.

Watering a houseplant

Watering monstera is the most important stage in its development. She loves moisture very much, but the plant has a clear seasonality of watering the soil. From early spring to late autumn, the flower should be watered abundantly. However upper layer The substrate should dry out between waterings. If the plant is flooded, it will begin to lose its decorative effect, forming black spots, and in rare cases, the root system will begin to rot. In the winter season, watering should be reduced, but be careful not to dry the monstera.

Water for irrigation should be at room temperature and stand for several days before use. Monstera also needs to be sprayed and regularly cleaned of dust.

Did you know? Monstera reacts to weather changes. On the edges of the leaves of the plant, droplets slowly form, which is why many florists say that the flower cries in the rain.

Monstera top dressing

All house plants need to be fed. If the monstera does not grow, then it lacks nutrients. Therefore, in order not to slow down the growth of adult plants, they need to be fed twice a month. Mineral and organic fertilizers are suitable as top dressing, although young flowers may not be fed.

Monstera pruning features

In order to stimulate the growth of new leaves, it is necessary to cut off the top. Do it in early spring, and when pruning, at least three nodes should be left on the handle of the top. The longer the cutting, the more it will root. The cut must be made, stepping back from the flower node 1-2 cm, and it must be straight. After pruning, the stem should be sprinkled with charcoal powder, and if the cutting needs to be rooted, then the lower cut is made oblique.

All about monstera transplant

Monstera can be transplanted as soon as she is one year old. Young flowers are moved to another place once a year: in spring, at an air temperature of at least + 16 ° C. A three-year-old monstera should be transplanted every two years, and a five-year-old one every 4 years.

For transplanting, choose large pots. With each transplant, the size of the pot is increased by 2-4 cm. At the bottom of the container, it is necessary to arrange drainage from shards, pebbles, broken tiles or coarse sand. A young flower needs slightly acidic or neutral soil, which consists of peat, deciduous, humus soil, turf and sand. For perennial monstera plants, acidic soil works well. In addition, a support should be installed in the center of the pot, which helps the plant maintain the necessary conditions for the development of both the flower and its aerial roots. When transplanting, carefully remove the flower from the pot and move it to a new container, slowly filling it with earth. After that, fill the pot to the top with earth and water well.
Some flower lovers have a question: "How to transplant a monster with aerial roots"?". With such a transplant, it is necessary to carefully wrap the aerial roots with wet twine and attach to the trunk. When they start to take small roots, then part of the plant's trunk with leaves can be cut off, planted in a container, covering the place of the cut with earth. Thus, a new, young flower will grow .

Important! If for some reason it is not possible to transplant the monstera, you just need to add earth to the pot.

The main pests and plant diseases

If you do not take care of the plant, then the monstera will begin to lose immunity and various diseases or pests may appear. The most common of them are spider mites and scale insects. spider mite is a small red spider that loves warmth and dryness. It appears from the underside of the leaves and braids them with cobwebs. For treatment, a soapy solution is used, which is used to treat the leaves. After three hours after the procedure, the leaves are washed with warm water.

Europeans saw this beautiful liana with carved leaves in the tropical jungles of South America and immediately dubbed it a monster, a monster. So she entered our homes under this name, adding the letter “e” to it along the way.

How to ensure the care and reproduction of monstera at home, we will describe below.

Monstera in nature - plant description

Monstera is a large tropical plant, an evergreen liana, of the Aroid family. Its native habitat is the equatorial part of America, to be more precise - Brazil and Mexico. Later, she was brought to India and successfully settled down there.

Monstera can grow up to 20 meters in length, clinging to trees. Throughout the trunk of the vine, you can see descending aerial roots. The leaves of the monstera are large, up to 90 centimeters, often pinnately dissected and perforated. Monstera blooms on the cob, forming a completely edible berry.

It should be noted that some monster species have poisonous leaves, so a person who has eaten a piece of a plant can get a mucosal burn or poisoning.

The discovery of monstera by Europeans is closely connected with the legend of killer plants. In those distant times, people saw the skeletons of animals and people in the forests, pierced through and through by the aerial roots of this giant liana. And the imagination painted a picture of how the plant kills all life with its tentacles, although in fact, the roots sprouted through the skeletonized remains. Perhaps that is why she received the name monstera (monstrum), which in Latin means a monster.

In the XVIII century, the plant moved to Europe and began to win the hearts of people and a place in their homes. Then, together with the British colonies, it came to India and spread further to the east.

Now monstera is a favorite houseplant. The variety of species allows you to choose a tropical vine of almost any size: both for small room or living room, and for the greenhouse.

To grow successfully in a room, it needs diffused light, high humidity and support for growth.

Very often in stores they sell us a monster like a philodendron and vice versa. Indeed, young plants are very difficult to distinguish from each other, and until 1763 it was one genus of Philodendron. Both species are aroid, both are vines with feathery leaves, they bloom the same, but there is still a difference. Philodendron on the cut secretes a milky juice of red, orange, yellow color, sometimes the juice is colorless, but turns brown when exposed to air.

Species and varieties with names

Depending on the room where you want to grow a tropical vine, you can purchase different types. For tall and spacious greenhouses, the following varieties are well suited: Adanson, oblique, gourmet. For the home, choose more compact vines: delicacy, its variety of monstera Alba, Borziga, thin.

Monstera is delicious. The second name is attractive. The most popular type for indoor cultivation. At a young age, her leaves are whole, in the shape of a heart, and in an adult plant they grow up to 60 cm in diameter and are strongly dissected. In room conditions, monstera delicacy does not grow above three meters, and in greenhouses and in nature - 12 meters. At proper care it blooms with a large cob, the length of which is 25 centimeters and a width of 20 centimeters. After pollination, a berry fruit appears, which ripens for several months and tastes like pineapple.

Monstera variegate, she is Monstera Alba. A variety of delicacy, but with variegated white leaves. It grows slowly, makes high demands on light and top dressing. Selling Dutch specimens often lose their variegation and become ordinary delicacy monsters.

Monster Borsig. Very common in Mexico, the leaves are medium-sized pinnate, up to 30 cm in diameter, good for the room. Compared to the delicacy monstera, it has thinner stems and grows well. Almost all Dutch plants are of the Borsiga variety.

Monstera Adanson (pierced, full of holes). An eight-meter liana with ovate leaves 25–55 centimeters long and 20 to 40 centimeters wide. The leaf plate is closed with oval and round holes, unequal, expanding towards the petiole. It rarely blooms in the room, with a narrow cob up to 12 centimeters in length.

Monstera oblique. It also has the names: monstera expilata and monstera crescent. An inhabitant of the humid forests of Brazil and Guiana. The leaves are oval, long and narrow, which, due to the dry air in the room, can become very small, which makes the plant look unkempt. The best place for cultivation - a wet greenhouse. It is there that the internodes become short, and the leaves grow up to 25 centimeters in length with a 15-centimeter width.

Monstera thin. A small vine with openwork leaves. It grows very slowly and even an adult does not exceed 150 centimeters. The leaf unfolds whole, heart-shaped, but eventually becomes openwork. One plant can have leaves at the same time. different stages: both solid and dissected, different in length and width. It looks very impressive, unpretentious, but rarely found on sale.

Photo gallery - monster varieties

Monstera color - cob with a white spathe Variegated leaves have white parts on the leaf plate
Monstera needs support When purchasing a monstera, remember that it grows both up and in breadth. She needs a lot of free space. In warm countries, monstera can be grown on Monstera oblique street with its oval holes.
Monstera delicacy (tasty) is most common in indoor floriculture Very rare monstera variability - yellow leaves

Since the homeland of the creeper is the humid tropics, for successful cultivation and the greatest decorative effect, you need to create just such conditions: humidity, diffused light and heat, and then, with proper care, the monstera will live with you for several decades.

Planting and transplanting monstera

It is not always possible to take a monstera offshoot from friends, then you have to buy it in a store. Instances can be different: from small, recently rooted cuttings to adult plants of 2 meters. Therefore, after the purchase, the monstera transplant should be approached individually.

Young plants develop very quickly, deplete the entire volume of soil in just a year, so they have to be replanted every spring with replacing the pot with a larger one.

Adult plants are transplanted every 2-3 years, and every spring they must change the topsoil, which is easily removed by hand.

Huge vines under the ceiling are usually planted in large flower pots and tubs, so even once every 5 years it is not easy to transplant them. But often such old monsters become ugly due to the exposure of the stem, the presence a large number aerial roots and a few leaves at the top. In this case, the monstera should be rejuvenated: cut off the entire aerial part, cut into cuttings so that each piece has an air root, and immediately plant it in separate containers.

Pot

The choice of pot size and its material depends on the plant. The larger the monster, the larger the capacity for planting, and preferably the heavier. Therefore, they often use not plastic, but clay or wood. For a small cutting with two or three leaves, a pot with a volume of at least five liters is used, and for adult gourmet monsters, about 15–20 liters. It is important not to plant a small cutting immediately in a pot. large volume, as soil acidification is possible.

Priming

Use a slightly acidic nutrient soil, you can prepare it like this:

• 2 parts of sod land, 1 part of peat, 1 part of biohumus or compost, 1 part of river pebbles or small expanded clay, 1 part of pine bark
• 2 parts soddy soil, 1 part leaf humus, 1 part biohumus, 1 part vermiculite, 1 part coconut substrate
• 2 parts finished purchased soil for palm trees or philodendrons, 1 part biohumus, 1 part vermiculite, 1 part coconut fiber or pine bark

If you decide to use sand, then be sure to take coarse.

The finished soil should be porous and nutritious.

How to transplant an adult plant

When transplanting a plant with soil replacement, proceed in the following sequence:

Transplantation of an adult plant with a large earthy clod is best done together.

Video - transplanting into a larger pot

Monstera in the interior

It is very important to understand that a huge heavy vine will grow from a small compact bush sold in a store, and it grows both up and in breadth. Often, to reduce the amount of space occupied, she is given supports.

In nature, the monstera climbs up the tree, it makes no sense to put tree branches in the rooms, it is better to use special tubes wrapped in coconut fiber.

But the best option- make your own support from plastic pipe with a cross section of 2–3 cm. A thick layer of sphagnum moss is wound around it, which perfectly retains moisture and will additional source water for monstera aerial roots.

A layer of plastic coarse mesh 1 * 1 cm is wound on a stick with moss and fixed with wire or fishing line.

You can make a support from a plastic pipe large diameter, drill a lot of holes for the roots on the side, and pour moss inside the stick. For good stability, this support should be installed on a cross and fixed in a pot even before planting.

Monstera is often installed on stands, placed on a table or cabinets.

Photo gallery - a plant in the interior

Large specimens are best placed on a stand with wheels. Monstera needs a strong support. wooden stand small monsters are often set on the table

How to care for a monstera at home

Monstera is quite unpretentious in care, only variegated forms require improved conditions.

Watering and feeding

Despite the fact that the monstera loves high humidity, it should not be watered often. The soil in the pot should dry out on top. Due to a small wax coating, the leaves do not evaporate much moisture. When wintering monstera on an insulated balcony, it is watered after most of the earthy coma dries out.

It is desirable to use warm, settled or rain water.

With annual transplants of young plants in fertile soil monstera can not be fed, but adult plants in which the soil does not change are in great need of mineral and organic substances. Use liquid organic and mineral top dressings 2 times a month in the warm season.

Very large old plants are additionally sprayed with fertilizer on the leaf, diluting them according to the directions on the label.

In winter, the monstera can continue to be fed only if it is kept in a warm room and there is enough light for it, the new leaves are as large as the summer ones. If the leaves become smaller and lighter, then the plant should be rearranged closer to the light source or illuminated with lamps.

Bloom

Most often, delicacy monsters bloom in the rooms. But for this it is necessary to create optimal conditions for its growth.

Monstera flower - an ear with a white or cream pericarp.

After flowering, the flower cover falls off and the cob turns green. It matures in 8 to 10 months. In exotic countries, monstera gourmet fruits are sold in local markets.

Eating an unripe fruit is very dangerous, as you can get poisoned, and ripe berry exotic creepers tastes like pineapple. It is also desirable to eat it with a fork, piercing individual grains, like an ordinary corn on the cob.

The monstera fruit will tell about ripeness itself: green scales will fall off.

rest period

In the wild, monstera does not have a certain dormant period. However, in apartments, especially in the northern parts of the country, where daylight hours are sharply shortened in autumn and winter and the brightness of the sun decreases, the temperature of the monstera should be reduced. It is optimal to keep it at 18–20 degrees, while reducing the number of waterings. This is done so that new leaves do not appear too often and do not stretch out, because with a lack of lighting they become smaller, and the internodes increase. If you have a sunny winter or a monstera is in a greenhouse where all year round the same temperature and day length are maintained, then leaving for winter period no different from summer.

crown formation

It will not work to get a lush monstera bush from one shoot. It stubbornly grows upwards and if there is no support, then it spreads along the surface. If the vine has grown and the lower part of the stem is bare, then you can cut off the crown with an aerial root and root it, and the remaining trunk can give new side shoots.

If several monstera cuttings are planted in one pot at once, a more lush vine will grow than usual. But she also needs support and a guide garter.

In nature, monstera clings to trees with aerial roots and leaf cuttings. In addition, aerial roots absorb moisture from the air and additionally feed the vine, and when they reach the ground, they grow into it.

In rooms, aerial roots are advised to be tied with wet moss or sent to a support with soil (if such was used) or to a bottle of water.

Never cut aerial roots.

Monster care mistakes - table

The most common care mistakes lead to the appearance of whole sheets, their grinding, yellowing.

sign	Problem	Treatment
Small leaves, no slits	lack of light	Freshly opened leaves are always whole, but if cuts and holes do not appear on them over time, move the monstera to a brighter place.
Mass yellowing of leaves with simultaneous loss of turgor (elasticity)	Overflow, possible root rot	Loosen the plant, transfer to a warm room in winter. When the stems wither, the crown and branches should be re-rooted.
Gradually yellowing of the leaves from the tip	Lack of nutrition	Feed with liquid fertilizer.
Yellowing of the leaves and the appearance of dry patches,	Overdrying the earthy coma	Feel the soil in the pot. If it is very dry, increase the frequency of watering.
Brown spots along the entire edge of the leaf in old plants	Potassium deficiency	Transplant the plant or feed with potash fertilizers.
Transparent leaves turning brown later	Sunburn	Protect from direct sunlight.
Monstera does not grow, the leaves fall	lack of light	Often found in winter at the northern windows. Move to another lighter window or illuminate with lamps.
The leaves turn brown, resemble paper	Lack of moisture in the air	Spray the plants more often or install a humidifier.
"Weeping" leaves	Overflow, excess moisture in the air	Droplets of water accumulate on the tips of the leaves in cloudy weather before rain, and also after heavy watering.
The variegation disappears	lack of light	In a monster with a white-green color, due to a lack of light, pure green leaves may appear, so these varieties are placed only in a well-lit place.

Monstera diseases and pests - table

Pest	Description	Treatment
Shchitovka	Small brown insects, rounded in the form of a shield, resemble a 1–2 mm growth on leaves and stems. A leaf affected by a scale insect turns pale and dries out.	The leaves are wiped with a soapy sponge, pests are removed by picking up a needle. In case of severe damage, an actara solution is made (8 grams per 10 liters of water) and monstera is sprayed.
Small insect 1–2 mm long, thin, jumps very well and lives in small groups. A leaf affected by thrips is covered with silvery translucent spots, on reverse side visible black excrement.	Use fitoverm, actara, decis. Dilute as directed and apply at least 2 sprays every 5-7 days.
spider mite	A small spider that wraps its web around the internodes, sucking the juices out of the plant. The leaf is covered with small yellow spots.	With a small lesion and a small plant size, it is better to take baths with soapy water (covering the soil from soap), large plant usually treated with anti-tick drugs: Apollo, Anti-tick, Vermitek.
Shaggy white bugs, massively accumulating on the petioles of the leaves, are very similar to cotton wool. The leaves are twisted, the plant withers.	The worms are removed with a cotton swab or a disc dipped in alcohol, the plant is treated with Aktara.

Monstera is practically not affected by diseases. The main reasons for the deterioration of the condition of the plant are associated with violations of care: dry air and soil, lack of light or excess moisture. At good care monstera does not get sick, but pests do not bypass it.

Photo gallery - diseases and pests, care errors

Mealybug on the plant looks like white cotton wool Leaf, damaged spider mite Monstera leaf damaged by thrips

Monstera is not a monster at all, as the name suggests. This is an exotic aroid vine from the tropics of South America. main feature and the value of the plant lies in the huge leaves with original cuts and deep emerald color.

Features of growing monstera

The non-capricious Tropicanka grows well indoors. The main difficulty is the huge size of the plant, which grows several meters in height and occupies large areas due to large leaves. Not in every house you can find so much space for the monstera, moreover, with sufficient lighting for it.

Planting a plant

Usually young plants are planted small size picking up a large pot. Some species are planted immediately in a bucket.

IMPORTANT! The pot for planting should be heavy so that the vine does not turn it over with its weight. For weighting, you can use stones by laying them on the bottom - they will not only increase the weight of the container, but also form a drainage layer.

Landing methods

You can plant young plants or rooted cuttings in a pot. Drainage is laid out at the bottom, then soil is poured. On top of it, the monstera root system is placed, straightening all the roots, and covered with soil. If the flower has aerial roots, they are left as is, without cutting off or digging into the soil. With the help of such roots, the monstera provides itself with additional nutrition.

Optimal landing time

Plant monstera whenever you want! It is able to develop all year round.

How to choose the right soil?

Such a giant needs good nutritious land, which is able to easily pass water into the pan. Mandatory components are humus (1 share), soddy substrate (2 shares), high-moor peat (1 share), river alluvial sand (1 share). Small pieces of charcoal, vermiculite or perlite can be added to this mixture if desired.

In nature, monstera grows in a humid environment of always warm tropics. To successfully grow it in the house, it is recommended to create a climate that is as similar to natural as possible.

Location and lighting

Liana can live in partial shade or in diffused light, getting enough light for growth and a beautiful shade of leaves. Staying in constant shade weakens the plant and reduces the decorative properties of the leaves, and the direct aggressive rays of the sun cause serious damage in the form of burns.

IMPORTANT! Monstera does not tolerate frequent relocations and transportation, as well as touching its leaves.

Air humidity

Monstera needs increased dampness. You can not be afraid to overdo it with moisture, because the plant has the ability to "drain" excess water from leaves.

In addition to constant spraying, the leaves must be wiped with a damp cloth to remove dust. Next to the vine, you can place a humidifier - bought or made by yourself. To do this, it is enough to put a wide container, filled to the brim with water, not far from the monstera.

Temperature regime

In summer, the flower can develop in any heat, it is only necessary to increase and maintain strong humidity around it. In winter, experienced flower growers reduce the temperature to 17-19 °, thereby slowing down the rapid growth of the vine.

Watering mode

Starting in early spring, the monstera is watered frequently, making sure that the water pours into the pan. Optimum conditions are always slightly moist soil in which excess water does not stagnate.

In autumn, the regime is slowly changed, reducing the frequency of watering. In winter, monstera is supposed to be watered only after the soil surface has dried. Wait a couple of days and pour soft cool water.

Top dressing and fertilizers

Such a large and well-developing plant, like monstera, needs additional nutrition. Fertilization is recommended during the period of intensive flower vegetation, which lasts from early spring to late autumn.

ADVICE! It will be optimal to alternate organic matter and mineral complexes to balance the intake of the necessary trace elements.

Young monsters of the first 2-3 years can not be fed if they are planted in a good substrate containing all the necessary components.

The procedure is quite simple, and often unnecessary. You can cut the vine at a young age, forming lush thickets, or, conversely, a plant old enough to provoke its branching.

In addition, a cleansing pruning can be carried out for sanitary purposes, destroying diseased and dead parts.

Trimming methods

Cleaning the monstera from unnecessary leaves is carried out at any time, cutting off the dry parts to healthy tissues with scissors. To stimulate new shoots, it is recommended to pinch off the top and treat the wound with ash.

flower transplant

The complexity of the procedure depends on the age and size of the monstera. The larger and older the flower, the more difficult it is to move it to a new container. Therefore, adult giants are rarely transplanted - with a break of 4-6 years. There is no particular need for more frequent operations, because an adult monstera stops growing and does not need to be replaced by a larger pot.

Young plants require transplanting much more often - they quickly increase in size and grow out of the old container in about 5-6 months.

Transplant methods

Young monsters can be transshipped with frequent transplants, keeping the earthen ball with roots intact. Such transplants must be alternated with a complete change of the substrate, which is greatly depleted in a year.

Transplantation of mature giants is carried out with a mandatory change of soil and inspection of the root system. All dead and rotten roots must be cut off, the rest washed in weak potassium permanganate. After that, plant the monstera in a new substrate, tamping down each layer of soil.

IMPORTANT! In mature plants, be sure to replace the top layer of the earth to the maximum possible depth. To do this, the old soil is removed with a spatula and new soil is filled in.

Old giant plants often lose their beauty. The leaves fall off, revealing a bare, unattractive stem. In the end, the leaves remain only at the top - small and have lost their unique dissection. It is better to dispose of such plants, having previously taken planting material to obtain a young monstera.

The reproduction of this exotic is a very simple procedure, which, however, has its own characteristics. Monstera is a vine, so any part of it can be rooted. The question is how to do it right!

Reproduction methods

• Top cutting. It must be cut off from the monstera and placed in a container of water until at least 3-4 roots are formed. Then the seedling is transferred to a pot with soil for further growth.
• Stem cutting. From big plant cut off a piece containing at least a couple of buds and simply lay them bud down on a light substrate. Create a small greenhouse with glass or polyethylene and humidify the air in it all the time.

ATTENTION! The stem must be cut off very thick - it will become the base of a new plant. The thin stalk will subsequently simply break under the weight of the giant.

• Leaf. Not the most reliable way The leaves often simply rot in the water. Usually used if there is no other planting material, or the sheet broke off by accident. It must be put in a fairly large and deep container and add water as it evaporates.
• Air outlet. Roots growing on the stem should be placed in a moist environment without separating from the plant. They can be overlaid with damp moss or lowered into a small container, tying it to the stem. Soon the roots will grow well, a leaf will appear on the shoot - then a new plant can be separated. Use a sharp knife, and treat the wound with ash or coal powder.

When does Monstera bloom?

The flowering of this giant in the house is a terribly rare occurrence! Moreover, you can not wait for it even in specially equipped winter gardens and greenhouses.

Flowering time and flower shape

In nature, Monstera produces an inflorescence in spring or early summer. The process of flowering and fruit ripening lasts up to 9-11 months.

The flower appears solitary on a thick peduncle. It looks like a light-colored corncob. Coloration can vary from snow white to dark beige. The whole flower is covered with dark speckles, on the one hand it is protected by a wide veil of the same shade.

Gradually, the veil begins to wither, dry and fall off, and the spad becomes green or purple. The ripe fruit is very tasty - it has a banana flavor and a pineapple smell.

ATTENTION! An unripe cob can be very poisonous!

What to do after flowering?

Feed the exhausted plant with organic fertilizers and a complex of minerals.

The most famous types and varieties of plants

The genus Monster contains not so many representatives - only about 35 species. Even less can be grown in houses.

Delicious (attractive) monstera

The most frequent resident of homes and offices. It has large heart-shaped leaves with a solid edge, a strong dissection and holes. different shapes throughout the plate. The surface is leathery, dense, painted in deep shades of green.

Its variety Variegata is more spectacular and remarkable due to its variegated coloration, which combines contrasting dark green and white colors.

Monstera Adanson (perforated)

Differs in thin, but big leaves with very strong dissection. The shape is ovoid, widened near the petiole.

The YellouSplash variety is decorated with yellow asymmetrical stripes scattered over the entire surface of the plate.

Monstera unequal

The original look, different from the rest of the monster. It has oval leaves, strongly elongated in length and sharp at the tip. The whole plate is covered with holes different size, mostly round and oval. The plant is small, the length of the leaf does not exceed 17-19 cm. The color is uneven, consists of indistinct spots of different shades of green.

The main problem of monstera is stem rot, which attacks especially often in winter. In cool conditions, it is very easy to waterlog the soil, causing an attack of pathogenic fungi. If possible, cut off all affected areas and move to a warmer place, while reducing watering. Treatment with copper preparations and modern fungicides - Previkur, Skor, Ordan will also help.

Harmful insects do not really like the monstera, attacking it quite rarely. Aphids, spider mites, ivy scale insects and mealybugs can be found on this giant. To prevent their appearance, you can periodically spray the plant with universal insecticides such as Actellik and Agravertin.

• Brown dry spots may appear on the edges of the leaf plate. So the monstera makes it clear that the air in the house is too dry.
• When the monstera is cold, it becomes covered with dark blots.
• The color of the leaves turns very pale if the plant is "hungry". In this case, it is necessary to increase the number of top dressings and the frequency of their application, alternating organic matter and mineral complexes.

Answers to questions from readers

What is the lifespan of a plant?

Monstera is a perennial that can live over 10 years.

Can this flower be kept at home?

Of course you can! If space permits, Monstera will perfectly enliven the interior and help purify the air from harmful elements. All signs and superstitions about the monster came from its name, which means "monster". But she got this name because of her huge size, and not her evil character.

Why doesn't monstera have carved leaves?

If young leaves appear without cuts and sections, move the flower to another place where it will have enough light.

Is monstera poisonous?

Yes, the tissues of the leaves and unripe fruits contain the smallest needle-like elements. If they get on the mucous membranes, they will provoke an unpleasant burning sensation.

Why is monstera crying?

Thus, she gets rid of excess water. Often, drops appear before rain, when the humidity in the air rises. Because of this, it is considered a small weather station.

Why doesn't the plant bloom?

Why do leaves turn yellow, dry and wither?

Errors in the irrigation regime are to blame. The flower suffers from a lack or, conversely, an excess of water.

How does the plant overwinter?

Monstera may not rest at all, actively developing in cold weather. If it is placed in cooler conditions, it will slow down its growth.

About the plant

Monstera is a tropical plant found in eastern India and South America. They can be gigantic in size, the leaves alone grow up to a meter in diameter, while the plant blooms and bears fruit.

Home monstera is much more modest in size, although large for indoors, does not bear fruit and very rarely blooms. There are two types of monstera: attractive with large leathery leaves of dark green color with cuts, sometimes with light stripes or spots; unequal (oblique) with asymmetrical leaves.

Watering

Monstera tropical plant, requires high humidity and abundant watering, but in everything there should be moderation. There should also be no swamp, otherwise the leaves will become covered with dark spots or rot.

Water should be boiled or settled. In winter and autumn, the plant should be watered moderately, the soil should have time to dry out, in summer and spring - much more often. Also, the leaves must be moistened all year round.

Lighting

Monstera does not tolerate excessive shading, but the light should be diffused.

The ideal option would be rooms with windows facing west or east. Also, the plant cannot be constantly moved from corner to corner, from this it will wither. The location must be permanent.

Temperature

Monstera endures small temperature drops with firmness, but it should not be allowed to drop below 15-16 ° in the cold season, optimally in the room should be about 25 °.

Humidity

Like any other tropical plant, monstera needs additional moisture at home. Therefore, the plant must be sprayed regularly, otherwise the leaves will dry out. In this case, the air temperature must be sufficiently high. In winter, it is better to refrain from additional moisture.

Fertilizer

Young monsters do not need to be fed, adults are fertilized every 2 weeks from late April to August. Without top dressing, the monstera will stop growing normally, the leaves will lose their bright and juicy color.

In addition to the timely application of fertilizers, the stems of an adult monstera need to be propped up or tied. Usually sticks or special decorative props are used for this.

How and when to transplant monstera

Young plants grow actively and are transplanted annually. The soil is prepared from turf, sand, humus and peat (2:1:1:1). Mature plants do not need to be repotted frequently if the topsoil changes every year. Monstera is planted in large containers "with a margin", often tubs or buckets are used for this.

During transplantation, aerial roots that extract additional moisture from environment, tied up towards the ground, so that over time they give new shoots.

Reproduction methods

Reproduction by seeds

The method is unpopular due to the high laboriousness and complexity. The sown seeds are kept warm, with good lighting.

The first shoots will appear within a month. After that, the seedlings are transplanted into a larger container, and transplanted every year.

Reproduction by cuttings

Propagation by cuttings is usually carried out in the spring. Lateral shoots from the lower part of the stem or the top of the stem with one or two leaves are separated from the mother plant.

The cuttings are planted in prepared pots, in which drainage must be laid out in advance and sprinkled with soil (peat with sand). For creating greenhouse effect the plant can be covered with a film or a jar until the roots grow.

Young plants are kept at temperatures close to 25° and watered twice a day. As soon as the cuttings germinate, they will need to be transplanted into a larger container. In the future, transplantation is carried out once a year, an adult plant needs it once every 4 years.

Diseases and pests

With proper care, suitable temperature conditions, regular watering and optimal humidity monstera does not get sick. But, like any plant, it can become a victim of pests.

• spider mite appears when the air becomes too dry, destroying the leaves. To get rid of it, the leaves must be washed with soapy water, treated with an insecticide after drying and regularly moistened.
• thrips invisible to the human eye. Their colonies settle on the reverse side of the leaf, feed on its juices, which leads to a color change from yellow to gray. In such cases, the leaves are also treated with an insecticide.
• Shchitovki spoil the leaves, they lose color and fall off. To control these insects, each leaf is washed with soapy water and treated with an aqueous solution of insecticide.
• Mealybug. It feeds on the juice of the plant, which leads to the fall of the leaves. Control methods are standard - treatment with soapy water, after which the leaves are sprayed with an insecticide.

Popular Growing Problems

In many homes, offices and government agencies you can find this unusual plant. A young monstera looks like a bush, it has thin stems, decorated with carved wide leaves. An adult plant is more like a palm tree. It reaches a very impressive size. In total, about fifty varieties of monster are known to specialists. This plant is a kind of creeper, so it loves to wrap itself around a support, whether it be a lattice or a pole. Monstera grabs for them with its tenacious aerial roots, which grow directly from the stem and branches, reaching a fairly large length in the process of growth.

general information

This plant is considered very tenacious and unpretentious, so even an amateur can grow it at home. You just need to know how to care for it, when and how much to water, fertilize, how to transplant a monstera, etc. Gradually, as they grow older, holes begin to appear on the leaves, which then turn into bizarre cuts. It is because of the unusual beauty and unpretentiousness that this plant is so popular. We will talk about how to care for it, water it and how to transplant a monstera at home so as not to damage the root system in this article. Indeed, in order for this large domestic "pet" to please the owner with its beautiful healthy appearance, he needs to provide certain conditions.

Monster Care

This representative of the aroid belongs to large vines, so it is recommended to keep it in fairly large rooms. And if it is easy to take care of a small bush, then this cannot be said about the large perennial "monsters", as they were called by the people. How to transplant a monstera after the first year of life, everyone who is engaged in indoor floriculture knows. But what to do with a huge plant that has grown to the height of the ceiling? That is why many are interested in how to transplant an adult monstera.

In order for this representative of the aroid family to grow properly and be healthy, he needs to provide the following conditions: optimal temperature regime, a place suitable for illumination, regular watering, spraying. But there is another process that this plant requires regularly: we are talking about transplanting.

Optimal conditions for growth

Monstera is a thermophilic culture. And this is not surprising, because we are talking about a tropical plant. Do not allow the room temperature to drop below seventeen degrees. True, in winter the plant seems to go into hibernation, so it can normally exist even in a ten-degree mode.

As for lighting, the monstera does not like direct sunlight, so it develops well in partial shade. But if growth slows down, and holes and cuts begin to appear unevenly, then this clear sign insufficient light.

Another proof that we are talking about a tropical culture is humidity, the level of which should be slightly above normal. Therefore, experienced flower growers periodically spray monstera leaves with lukewarm water. In general, you need to know that the temperature and humidity for this plant are directly proportional, i.e. the colder, the, respectively, less water it requires. You should not put a monstera pot next to a battery or other heating device, otherwise the leaves may turn black and dry.

Space for this representative of the aroid family is also of great importance. Monstera tends to grow quickly and strongly, so for her in the house you need to allocate a place where she will not be cramped.

And finally, the last condition regarding how to properly transplant a monstera requires certain knowledge and skills from the grower. Indeed, on adult plants, in addition to leaves and a rather thin and fragile stem, they also exist with which it clings to a support. Therefore, before transplanting a monster, you should carefully consider how to do so as not to damage them. In general, experts recommend changing pots every two years in early spring.

How to transplant monstera after purchase

you bought in the store small plant with two or three small leaves. It bears little resemblance to those giants that have leaves about fifty centimeters wide or more. But do not despair. Very soon, large glossy leaves with artsy cuts will decorate a room or office. In the meantime, you need to transplant the monstera from the shipping store plastic into beautiful pot. To do this, you need to prepare the soil in advance. Many hobbyists prefer to buy ready-made soil mix.

All work should be carried out with gloves, since monstera juice has an irritating effect. young plant transplanted in the usual way, since it does not have aerial roots that can be damaged.

What kind of soil does Monstera prefer?

Judging by the reviews, the Palm earthen mixture is excellent for planting this plant. However, if it is not possible to purchase it, you can prepare the soil yourself from four different components. To do this, mix one part of coniferous, leafy and peat soil, as well as half of the sand. Be sure to have a good layer of drainage. It is in such a soil mixture that the monstera will feel comfortable and delight with intensive growth, of course, with proper care.

Pot selection

A small stem cutting bought in a store can be placed in a pot with a capacity of three to four liters. But in the future, before transplanting a large monstera, you should take care of large dishes, since adults grow up to three meters in height. In the meantime, it is quite possible to get by with a small clay pot. One more necessary condition- the presence of a pallet.

Timing for transplant

While the plant is still young, transshipment should be carried out regularly once every two years. After it reaches the age of six, it can be transplanted less often: after three years. But in between, it is recommended that you always update the top layer of earth in a pot.

Adult creepers have an amazing character: the larger the volume of their pot, the larger they grow. For a large monstera, you have to take an extensive pot, “for growth”, which should be eight to ten centimeters larger than the previous one in diameter. Before transplanting the monstera, you should take care of the support in advance, which will need to be installed immediately. Alone, moving a tall plant to another pot will not work, so you need to take someone as an assistant.

Before transplanting, the monster must be well watered, so that the earth is completely wet and the roots become elastic. Then you need to prepare and disinfect the soil mixture. At the bottom of the pot, a drainage layer should be poured and a support placed in it. Then you will need to get the monstera along with the earthy lump from the old container. To do this, it is better to draw a knife or spatula along its inner part, separating the accreted roots, and cut those that have grown into the drainage. It is optimal to stand on a chair and hold the monstera while the assistant takes it out of the pot. Then the plant should be transferred to a new planter, set in the center and gradually fill the space between the stem and walls with soil. Then the soil around the circumference must be watered, wait until it settles, and add the rest of the earth.