How monstera grows at home. Monstera: propagation by cuttings, seeds and aerial roots

Planting a monster at home is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. You can reproduce monstera even the first time. Let's look at the main ways of breeding this houseplant.

Knowing how to propagate the monstera, you yourself will not have time to come to your senses, how this tropical plant will turn into a favorite of your indoor flower "collection". But in order for this whole procedure to go smoothly and efficiently, you need to know about the key conditions.

First of all, you are required to prepare the soil for sowing seeds or planting cuttings. Pour drainage into small pots or other containers first, then a mixture of peat and humus, and also sand. Determine in advance where you are going to grow monstera shoots - since this plant is photophilous, you need to take the appropriate site for it.

When you propagate and plant the cuttings, you will need to maintain a humid microclimate. The plant must be constantly sprayed, then the shoots will quickly release roots. Stimulates a similar process and top dressing of the soil.

In addition to providing favorable conditions for the development of a young monstera, you also need to take care of your own safety. The thing is that this tropical plant is considered poisonous. This means that it is advisable to carry out all work with the cuttings with gloves, otherwise the monstera juice will get on clean skin and will not give you the most pleasant sensations.

The main methods of reproduction

How monstera breeds at home needs to be considered in detail. The flower grower is offered several ways to breed this houseplant at once. Each of them has its own advantages, but agricultural techniques will be slightly different.

stem cuttings

Propagation of monstera at home with stem cuttings is a common method. It is used when an old and rather “bald” plant needs to be rejuvenated. Try to cut strong cuttings from the monstera, on which at least one kidney will be present. They are recommended to be placed in sphagnum moss, a mixture of peat and sand, or simply in wet sand.

Mandatory requirement: it is necessary to root the stem processes not in a single container, but individually. Top them with a transparent film or a glass jar. From time to time, this shelter is removed so that the cuttings receive Fresh air. Don't forget about regular hydration.

Apical cuttings

This method is most often used by flower growers. In most cases, it involves cutting the apical processes from a mature plant. They need to be placed in a container with water, wait until the cuttings release roots. Do not rush to root them in the soil. First you need to wait until at least three root branches appear on each green process. Only in this case, the newly-made plant can be determined for a permanent place of growth.

Leaves

Monstera can propagate not only by cuttings, but also by leaves. This method is not considered as effective as the previous ones, but in some cases it is used (if a leaf suddenly breaks off, they do not throw it away, but try to root it). All you have to do is put the leaf in a glass of water and wait until it takes root. When the root system is more or less formed, the leaf can be planted in the soil.

Do not neglect the presence of a support, otherwise a young plant planted from a leaf will not hold its shape on its own.

aerial roots

Compared with other techniques, propagation of monstera by aerial roots is not so easy. However, the performance of this method much higher. You need to find a leaf on a plant from which the strongest grow. Tie moss to them, which will need to be constantly moistened. Gradually, the monstera will increase the tap, which you will later carefully cut off and transplant to a permanent place. It is very difficult for beginners to propagate this tropical plant with aerial shoots. However, experienced flower growers do an excellent job with this task.

seeds

How to plant a monstera at home, you ask? Before determining the best method for yourself, you need to study the common methods of reproduction in as much detail as possible. For example, root this indoor plant You can also use seeds. However, be prepared for the fact that a lot of efforts will have to be made, and the effectiveness of this method is not always guaranteed.

The first thing to take care of is the availability of fresh seeds. If they lie with you for a long time, then they may simply not ascend. For germination of seed material, it is recommended to use sphagnum moss, which is placed in plastic bags along with monstera seeds. It is recommended to keep them in a room with diffused lighting and a temperature of + 25 ... + 28 ° C. After a month or a half, you can expect the first shoots to appear.

Further care

No matter how you decide to plant a monstera, you need to prepare for the fact that it will grow rather slowly (especially if you sow seeds in the ground). Be patient and do not forget to carefully care for the shoots. If the room where they are kept has an optimal microclimate, moderately bright lighting, and stable temperature indicators, you can count on the desired result. At the same time, regular spraying of cuttings and moistening of the soil in which they take root are of great importance. Follow the key plant care recommendations and your collection will be replenished with new plants.

Video "Cutting and caring for the monstera"

From this video you will learn how to properly propagate the monstera and care for the plant.

Monstera is a fairly popular indoor plant with aerial roots. It belongs to evergreen shrubs and large lianas of the aroid family, so it is worth keeping a growing monstera only in large spacious rooms, because it grows quite quickly. And how to transplant the monster correctly, so as not to accidentally damage the plant, not every amateur gardener knows. It is because of its large size that the monster got its name (monster - a monster). This vine is unpretentious, it needs a bright diffused color, room temperature, high humidity (the monster needs to be sprayed regularly) and fertilizing about a couple of times a month (less often in winter) with organic fertilizers.

In nature (and the homeland of monstera is South America) the plant blooms regularly, this rarely happens in an apartment.

We transplant the monster into pre-prepared pots
Monstera can be transplanted when she is one year old. It is customary to transplant young plants annually, choosing for this the spring period, when the air temperature outside and indoors becomes higher. The required minimum at which the monstera does not slow down its growth: +16 degrees.

It is customary to transplant a three-year-old monster every two years. Once the plant reaches the age of five, it can be repotted every four years. Only the earth in pots needs to be topped up annually.

For transplanting, choose spacious pots. Do not plant a young plant immediately in a pot large diameter, increase it gradually. Arrange competent high-quality drainage by lining the bottom of the pot with shards, pebbles, broken tiles, coarse sand. A young monstera requires slightly acidic or neutral soil, consisting of peat, deciduous, humus soil, turf and sand, while an adult will use more acidic soil. Insert a support into the center of the pot - an ordinary stick wrapped in moss fixed with wire can act as this. The support will help the monstera to support in the pot right conditions for the growth of the plant itself, as well as its aerial roots. Roots that cannot yet reach the ground will receive moisture and additional nutrition with the help of moss in order to grow faster.

Carefully remove the monstera from the old pot, put it in the middle of the new pot, fill it with earthen mixture, fixing its roots. Next, you need to quickly fill the earth to the top of the pot, water the plant.

The best earth mixture recipe for a young monstera: one part of leafy earth, one part of sifted sand (better than sea sand), three parts of turf. After transplanting, the monstera can get sick, its leaves will take on a yellowish tint. However, do not worry in vain: in a week the plant will adapt and turn green again. Then it can be watered.

How to transplant a plant with roots
An adult monstera is often observed a large number of aerial roots, which somewhat spoil the attractive appearance of the plant. And how to transplant a monstera with aerial roots?

When transplanting, a couple of such roots must be carefully wrapped with wet twine and secured to the trunk. When the roots begin to sprout small roots, part of the monstera trunk, along with the leaves, can be cut off, planted in a pot, covering the place of the cut with earth. So a new, young plant will grow. On the old one, a fresh “wound” must be sprinkled with fine coal, later side shoots will appear in this place.

Monstera is often disliked due to the belief that this plant is supposedly capable of destroying a family. However, do not refuse to purchase this wonderful and unpretentious plant, which can grow to a five-meter giant.

In many homes, offices and government agencies you can find this unusual plant. A young monstera looks like a bush, it has thin stems, decorated with carved wide leaves. An adult plant is more like a palm tree. It reaches a very impressive size. In total, about fifty varieties of monster are known to specialists. This plant is a kind of creeper, so it loves to wrap itself around a support, whether it be a lattice or a pole. For them, the monstera grabs with its tenacious aerial roots, which grow directly from the stem and branches, reaching a sufficiently large length in the process of growth.

general information

This plant is considered very tenacious and unpretentious, so even an amateur can grow it at home. You just need to know how to care for it, when and how much to water, fertilize, how to transplant a monstera, etc. Gradually, as they grow older, holes begin to appear on the leaves, which then turn into bizarre cuts. It is because of the unusual beauty and unpretentiousness that this plant is so popular. We will talk about how to care for it, water it and how to transplant a monstera at home so as not to damage the root system in this article. Indeed, in order for this large domestic "pet" to please the owner with its beautiful healthy appearance, he needs to provide certain conditions.

Monster Care

This representative of the aroid belongs to large vines, so it is recommended to keep it in fairly large rooms. And if it is easy to take care of a small bush, then this cannot be said about the large perennial "monsters", as they were called by the people. How to transplant a monstera after the first year of life, everyone who is engaged in indoor floriculture knows. But what to do with a huge plant that has grown to the height of the ceiling? That is why many are interested in how to transplant an adult monstera.

In order for this representative of the aroid family to grow properly and be healthy, he needs to provide the following conditions: optimal temperature regime, a place suitable for illumination, regular watering, spraying. But there is another process that this plant requires regularly: we are talking about transplanting.

Optimal conditions for growth

Monstera is a thermophilic culture. And this is not surprising, because we are talking about a tropical plant. Do not allow the room temperature to drop below seventeen degrees. True, in winter the plant seems to go into hibernation, so it can normally exist even in a ten-degree mode.

As for lighting, the monstera does not like direct sunlight, so it develops well in partial shade. But if growth slows down, and holes and cuts begin to appear unevenly, then this clear sign insufficient light.

Another proof that we are talking about a tropical culture is humidity, the level of which should be slightly above normal. Therefore, experienced flower growers periodically spray monstera leaves with lukewarm water. In general, you need to know that the temperature and humidity for this plant are directly proportional, that is, the colder, the, respectively, less water it requires. You should not put a monstera pot next to a battery or other heating device, otherwise the leaves may turn black and dry.

Space for this representative of the aroid family is also of great importance. Monstera tends to grow quickly and strongly, so for her in the house you need to allocate a place where she will not be cramped.

And finally, the last condition regarding how to properly transplant a monstera requires certain knowledge and skills from the grower. Indeed, on adult plants, in addition to leaves and a rather thin and fragile stem, they also exist with which it clings to a support. Therefore, before transplanting a monster, you should carefully consider how to do so as not to damage them. In general, experts recommend changing pots every two years in early spring.

How to transplant monstera after purchase

you bought in the store small plant with two or three small leaves. It bears little resemblance to those giants that have leaves about fifty centimeters wide or more. But do not despair. Very soon, large glossy leaves with artsy cuts will decorate a room or office. In the meantime, you need to transplant the monstera from the shipping store plastic into beautiful pot. To do this, you need to prepare the soil in advance. Many hobbyists prefer to buy ready-made soil mix.

All work should be carried out with gloves, since monstera juice has an irritating effect. The young plant is transplanted in the usual way, since it does not have aerial roots that can be damaged.

What kind of soil does Monstera prefer?

Judging by the reviews, the Palm earthen mixture is excellent for planting this plant. However, if it is not possible to purchase it, you can prepare the soil yourself from four different components. To do this, mix one part of coniferous, leafy and peat soil, as well as half of the sand. Be sure to have a good layer of drainage. It is in such a soil mixture that the monstera will feel comfortable and delight with intensive growth, of course, with proper care.

Pot selection

A small stem cutting bought in a store can be placed in a pot with a capacity of three to four liters. But in the future, before transplanting a large monster, you should take care of large dishes, since adults grow up to three meters in height. In the meantime, it is quite possible to get by with a small clay pot. One more necessary condition- the presence of a pallet.

Timing for transplant

While the plant is still young, transshipment should be carried out regularly once every two years. After it reaches the age of six, it can be transplanted less often: after three years. But in between it is recommended to update upper layer earth in a pot.

Adult creepers have an amazing character: the larger the volume of their pot, the larger they grow. For a large monstera, you have to take an extensive pot, “for growth”, which should be eight to ten centimeters larger than the previous one in diameter. Before transplanting the monstera, you should take care of the support in advance, which will need to be installed immediately. Alone, moving a tall plant to another pot will not work, so you need to take someone to help.

Before transplanting, the monster must be well watered, so that the earth is completely wet and the roots become elastic. Then you need to prepare and disinfect the soil mixture. At the bottom of the pot, a drainage layer should be poured and a support placed in it. Then you will need to get the monstera along with the earthy lump from the old container. To do this, it is better to draw a knife or spatula along its inner part, separating the accreted roots, and cut those that have grown into the drainage. It is optimal to stand on a chair and hold the monstera while the assistant takes it out of the pot. Then the plant should be transferred to a new planter, set in the center and gradually fill the space between the stem and walls with soil. Then the soil around the circumference must be watered, wait until it settles, and add the rest of the earth.

This plant looks great in an apartment or office. Caring for him is quite simple, and there are practically no problems with transplantation. There are some completely simple tips on how to properly propagate the monstera, depending on the method chosen.

Propagation of monstera by cuttings

This method is the most common. It is necessary to select cuttings with one aerial root to make it easier to work with it. Take a clean sharp knife or clippers. The cut site must be treated with crushed charcoal so that the infection does not spread in the future.

This method of breeding monstera is also well suited for rejuvenating the plant. The cut is made slightly below the air root. Then the workpiece is placed in water and after two weeks the seedling will take root. Monstera grows quite quickly and does not tolerate frequent transplants, so it is necessary to pick up a pot for growth in advance.

For an old bare plant, there is a method. The stem is cut into cuttings, each of which should have three eyes. The slices are sprinkled with charcoal and dried a little. Then they are planted under banks along individual pots. It is necessary to water the seedlings daily and in a month young shoots will appear.

Monstera: propagation by aerial roots

Now let's look at how to propagate the monster with the help of aerial processes-roots. To do this, two or three of the uppermost roots are wrapped in wet moss or dipped in a container of water. After such a procedure, after a while, small roots will begin to appear from the air. During this period, for reproduction, the upper part of the monstera is cut off along with leaves and roots. The slices are sprinkled with charcoal and the finished cutting is planted in a pot.

The plant produces apical shoots with roots by late spring. After such a procedure, an adult plant continues to grow and produces side shoots. As a result, it becomes more loose and rejuvenated.

Reproduction of monstera at home: seed method

Before you propagate the monstera in this way, you need to prepare a warm room with a constant temperature and diffused light. After landing, the earth is constantly sprayed with water from a spray bottle and does not allow it to dry out. If you follow all these rules, you can expect shoots in a month. In another six months, the seedlings will release a couple of true leaves. A year after planting, you will get strong plants with a developed root system and two or three pairs of leaves. Dive seedlings begin after they become noticeably crowded in one container.

All three methods have a place to be and everyone chooses what is acceptable for themselves. For each of the options there are a number of identical recommendations.

Huge fans of dark green openwork leaves on long petioles, cords of aerial roots on a thick stem - this is what the monstera looks like. A plant that superstitious people are afraid of and that flower growers who are well acquainted with it love. How not to love this miracle of tropical nature. After all, monstera creates harmony and comfort around itself, purifies and ionizes the air, and, as experts say, it helps to develop intelligence. It is no coincidence that these creepers plant trees and shrubs in schools, other educational institutions and offices. At home, monstera will also be appropriate, it is a very easy-to-care and propagate plant.

Plant with openwork leaves

Monstera is a typical representative of the South American tropics. In the wild, this vine grows up to 50 meters. And its carved leaves reach a meter wide. To climb trees, the liana grows strong aerial roots, which, descending from the branches, reach the ground. If the monstera has lost contact with the soil, thanks to the air processes, it will be fixed on the trunk where it lives and become an epiphyte (a plant without land).

Monstera leaves, large, shiny and leathery, deserve special attention. They are located on long petioles and are equipped with an amazing "carved" pattern. They have elegantly cut edges, and sometimes neat symmetrical holes are punched. Interesting not only appearance monster foliage, but also its internal structure. The lateral veins of the plant are equipped with special organs - hydiators. With increasing humidity, they release droplets of a transparent liquid. The monstera seems to be crying. It has long been observed that weeping begins before the rain. So Monstera is a natural barometer.

Under natural conditions, the liana blooms. A large (30 cm) yellowish, cream or lilac inflorescence is very similar to a corn cob, covered with a petal like a veil.

The monstera fruit ripens for almost a year. In a variety of a plant called delicacy, the ripe cob is edible, inside its juicy pulp, its taste resembles something between a banana and pineapple. But in captivity, monsters rarely bloom and do not bear fruit.

Monstera is often confused with the split-leaved philodendron variety. These plants are the closest relatives, they are from the aroid family. But philodendron leaves are more elongated and pointed at the end. The most important difference between monstera and philodendron is juice. If you want to make sure which plant is in front of you, break off or cut a shoot or leaf. Monstera has clear juice, while Philodendron has milky juice.

Monstera is one of the most undemanding, and therefore popular plants in indoor floriculture. They are loved for their original greenery and fast growth. At home, the liana, of course, is ten times less than in nature, but it can grow up to 4 meters. Not everyone can comfortably accommodate such a giant at home. But in public places, monstera is a frequent inhabitant. It does well in vertical gardening, looks great in tubs or stylish planters, standing apart from other flowers. It is believed that monstera not only heals the atmosphere, but also absorbs negative energy.

But the openwork monstera also has opponents. Some of them believe that creepers have no place in the house. This superstition has a long history. In the XVIII century, when Europeans began to settle in Latin America, there were rumors that giant killer plants live in the jungle. The pioneers found the remains of animals and people, riddled with stems and roots. They said that the plant allegedly attacks living beings. But the truth is that the plant sprouted through someone who had already died, lost in the jungle.

Such tales have done a disservice. An innocent creeper was called monstera - monstrum, which means monster in Latin. But according to other sources, the name of the plant comes from the word monstrosus - bizarre or amazing. This definition is best suited exotic liana. Its foliage creates bizarre patterns, and the plant, familiar to flower growers for more than three centuries, still surprises and delights.

Delicious, oblique, thin and other monsters

About 50 species of monstera are described in nature, but only a few of them moved into houses. Others remained in greenhouses and winter gardens. Let's get acquainted with some representatives of domesticated monsters.

• Monstera delicacy, which is also called attractive and tasty, is the leader in popularity. At home, in equatorial America, it is grown for delicious fruits. In harsh climates, this creeper adorns greenhouses and rooms. In greenhouse conditions, this monstera stretches to 12 meters, in room conditions only 3. The creeper has fleshy dense stems. Heart-shaped leathery leaves are large (60 cm), strongly dissected, with lobes and holes. This variety can also bloom when kept in an apartment.
• Monstera delicacy has a variegated white-and-white form, it is also called alba. It does not grow as fast as the green one and is a little more whimsical. But these shortcomings can be reconciled due to the incredibly beautiful leaves. They are the same "lace", but are also painted with white patterns, which can take up half the sheet. And the older the plant becomes, the more white marks. In the variegated variety, the stem is also multi-colored.
• Variegated marble monstera combines yellow and green leaves and stems.
• Monstera Borziga is bred on the basis of a delicacy. But this is a more miniature liana. The leaves are smaller, no more than 30 cm, the shoots are thinner. Good and fast growing room conditions.
• Monstera adanson (aka pierced or full of holes) comes from the Brazilian jungle. This is a vine about 8 meters long with large (up to 50 cm) thin ovate leaves. A lot of small holes are randomly “punched” on them. The plant blooms reluctantly. In room conditions, monstera adanson is successfully grown, but so far it is not common.
• Monstera oblique or unequal comes from the tropics of Brazil and Guiana. This climbing vine has relatively small (20 cm) asymmetrical oval leaves on short (12 cm) petioles. The inflorescence is only 4 cm long. The plant is cultivated as an indoor plant, but specimens from the greenhouse look better and more spectacular.
• Monstera doubtful (dubia) is a rare variety. This delicate miniature creeper has whole young leaves with a silvery ornament along the veins. They resemble the foliage of scindapsus. With age, they turn green and become perforated.
• Monstera pointed is a compact vine - 3 meters. The leaves are dense with a pointed end at first whole. Small cuts appear only in an adult plant. Despite the unpretentiousness, it is rarely grown in home floriculture.
• Monstera thin - a very rare liana. It is small with delicate openwork leaves. In young plants, they are heart-shaped, without cuts. In adults - pinnately dissected. The plant is undemanding, but grows very slowly.

Types and names of the flower in the photo

Monstera thin Monstera variegated alba Monstera adanson (pierced or full of holes) Monstera borsiga Monstera dubious (dubia) Monstera oblique (unequal-sided) Monstera delicacy (attractive and tasty) Monstera variegated marble Monstera pointed

Video: acquaintance with the variegated monstera

Conditions for creepers (table)

For creepers, the purity of its large carved leaves is very important. And if the dusty monstera is also sprayed, it will become a real spotted monster.

Why you need to dust

• Dust closes the pores on the leaves, and this interferes with gas exchange with the environment.
• It forms a film that slows down the process of photosynthesis.
• Dust can contain and accumulate substances harmful to the plant.
• It can hide traces of insect pests.

So rub monstera leaves regularly. It is better in the morning, so that the plant dries out before night. Wipe the leaves with a soft damp cloth. Before that, to facilitate cleaning, you can spray monstera.

For greater beauty, you can give the foliage a gloss. Polishing products are sold in specialized stores, it is better to take in aerosol packaging. If you do not want to use the drug from the store, try folk remedies.

Flower growers are advised to use beer, a weak solution of vinegar or milk for polishing. Arm yourself with a cloth, choose a polishing agent and proceed. Young tender foliage should not be touched. And polish adult leaves carefully, without pressing hard, so as not to injure. Such cleaning will make the plant not only attractive, but healthy.

Planting and transplanting monstera at home

For the active growth of beautiful leaves, Monstera needs a nutritious and at the same time loose and porous, acid-neutral earth. Monstera soil mix options:

• for 2 shares of sod land, one share of sand, peat and humus land each;
• equally leafy earth, high-moor peat, split bark mixed with chopped moss and half a share of perlite or coarse sand;
• ready store soil for saintpaulias with the addition of perlite or coconut fiber.

Repotting a young plant

Young monsters need an annual change of the pot. They quickly gain green mass, so they grow out of the old container. Pot for young plant, who has not yet gained weight, it is not difficult to choose. Almost anyone will do, you just need to be guided by the rule: the diameter of the new container should be 2–3 cm larger than the old one. Liana does not need a too high or wide pot. Choose approximately the same height and diameter. Before planting, install a support for the monstera: sticks or a column.

1. Before planting, sterilize the soil substrate, drainage and pot.
2. At the bottom of the pot, pour a drainage layer (about 1/5 of the volume) (expanded clay, broken brick, gravel, perlite, foam plastic crumbs).
3. Carefully remove the plant from the old pot, being careful not to scatter the earthen ball.
4. Inspect the roots, if there are damaged, remove them.
5. Place an earthen ball in a new container in the center. Place a support nearby.
6. Carefully fill in the new soil and lightly tamp it down.
7. Water the plant, put it in a permanent place, spray it.
8. Transplanting for monstera is stressful, and moist air will help to adapt.

Monstera is quite capable of getting along with other vines. For example, philodendron and scindapsus can become its neighbors. Growing in the same pot, they will make up an original ensemble. When choosing companions for the monstera, consider the features of their maintenance and care, they should be similar.

How to transplant an adult monstera

Adult creepers (over 4 years old) are recommended to be replanted every two years. The larger the volume of land, the larger the monstera will grow. For an adult plant, you have to take an extensive (about 20 liters) pot for growth. It can be 6–8 cm higher than the previous one. Preference should be given to ceramic containers. They are heavier and more stable, they will not roll over in such a massive plant. The pot must be wide so that the air roots of the monstera can reach the soil. Take care of the support for the plant in advance. It is installed during transplantation. Alone, transplanting a tall monster is unlikely to succeed, so find an assistant.

1. Before transplanting, water the monstera well so that the earth ball is completely wet and the roots become elastic.
2. Prepare and decontaminate potting mix, drainage, and pot.
3. At the bottom of the tank, pour a drainage layer and install a support.
4. Gently run a knife or spatula along the inner walls of the old pot to separate the overgrown roots.
5. If the roots have grown into the drainage holes, cut them off.
6. Get a monstera with an earthy clod from an old pot (you may have to stand on a chair for this, holding the plant by the stem, and your assistant will remove the pot).
7. Transfer the plant to a new pot, set it in the center and gradually cover the distance between the walls and the earthen clod with soil, lightly tamp it down.
8. Pour the soil around the circumference, wait for it to settle, and add more. But do not try to fill the entire pot to the brim, so that later it would be more convenient to change the top layer.

Every year the monstera transplant becomes more and more difficult. And instead, they only change the top layer (5–6 cm) of soil in a pot. Humus or other nutrient components must be added to the new soil for nutritional value.

Stands and supports for indoor flower

In nature, the monstera finds its own support. Liana braids tree trunks, climbing higher towards the sun. It is held on the trunk, like tentacles, by aerial roots. At home, the grower should take care of the support for the monstera. Without it, it will not be possible to grow a harmonious and healthy plant. Heavy leaves will first tilt the stem, and then it will not withstand this weight and will break. Support will be needed when the monstera has not yet reached half a meter. If you notice that the stem of the plant has deviated from the vertical, it's time to take action.

Creeper supports - sticks wrapped in coconut fiber - can be found in flower shops. But they don't the best way for monstera. The fiber does not retain moisture, and its layer is usually very thin. And for the monstera to be fixed on the support, it is necessary to grow into it with aerial roots.

Better support can be made by hand.

1. Hollow cut plastic pipe(select the diameter and length, commensurate with the size of the plant) drill holes - there are more holes along the entire length.
2. Install a pipe in a pot where you plant the monstera.
3. Through the top, pour expanded clay and sand into the pipe to the level of the soil, this is the prevention of decay.
4. Mix sphagnum moss with peat and fill the pipe to the top.
5. Wrap the support with moistened moss, and on top - with a thin plastic mesh with 1-2 cm cells (mesh stockings can be used).
6. Fix the mesh with a strong thread or fishing line.
7. Plant the monstera next to the support.
8. Water not only the soil in the pot, but also the substrate in the tube through the top. Spray the support like you would the rest of the plant.

This design humidifies the air very well, allows air roots to receive moisture and keeps the monstera stem in an upright position.

You can increase the stability of the supporting structure for monstera. Make parallel holes at the bottom of the pipe and pass strong plastic sticks through them crosswise. Their length should allow the structure to be installed in the spacer.

In addition to the support described above, the monstera is often allowed to lean on pieces of furniture. But it's not very reliable. You can arrange fasteners (wooden lattice or strong twine) for the creeper right on the wall so that it weaves along it. But then it will be more difficult to care for the plant and you can forget about transplanting it. It is unrealistic to remove branched lashes from the wall. Some flower growers use a whole system of different supports. For example, a moss tube in combination with a wooden lattice, for weaving plants, on the wall. Monstera is placed between them, growing both along the wall and along the support.

By the way, delicate and miniature monsters: dubia, thin or oblique - will do without support, they can be grown as ampelous.

Monstera in the interior in the photo

Delicate monstera oblique grows well in the form ampelous plant The support for this monstera is clearly rather weak, and it lacks an outer layer of moss, thanks to which the aerial roots will not bristle so much Don’t wait for the monstera stem to twist, help it grow vertically Monstera can become a decor for a green wall Large monstera cannot be grown without reliable support

Video: monstera transplant

Care: Do's and Don'ts

Caring for a properly growing monstera is easy. This giant creeper prefers to drink plenty of water, not too much food. And she will be glad to have a winter vacation and a timely haircut.

Watering and feeding

Most monsteras are fast growing vines. Therefore, in spring and summer, when greenery grows, they need good watering. The soil should only dry slightly on top between waterings. It must first be filtered, settled or boiled, and then cooled to room temperature.

In winter, the frequency and volume of watering is reduced. It is not necessary to dry the soil to a state of cracker, keep it slightly moist. The lower the temperature in the room where the monstera stands, the poorer the watering. Waterlogging leads to root rot.

Monstera is fed quite rarely, about once every three weeks. And only during growth. You can use liquid mineral fertilizers for ornamental plants. Prepare the solution twice as weakly as it says in the instructions. You can give the monster organic. Pour with a weak solution of mullein, but keep in mind: he has bad smell. Now there are also odorless fertilizers based on manure (Agrovit Kor).

Flowering at home

Monstera readily blooms in greenhouse conditions. At home, this is rare. Most flower growers agree that monstera requires more humid air than in an apartment for flowering. In addition, the plant usually receives a nitrogen supplement, which stimulates leaf growth and inhibits the formation of flowers.

But is it worth it to be upset if the monstera does not bloom, because this vine is valued for its openwork large leaves. And monstera flowers are not very good. They look like callas or spathiphyllums, only the cob is larger. And not everyone has the patience to wait for the fruit to ripen. It will be possible to eat a monstera berry only after a year.

Features of winter care

Monstera does not have a pronounced dormant period, it does not drop leaves, but simply stops growth with the onset of cold weather and a decrease in daylight hours. Monstera is ready to winter at a temperature of + 12–16. At this time, it is necessary to cancel top dressing and reduce watering.

If you give the monstera artificial light and increase the temperature in the room to +18, the monstera will come to life again. But to deprive her of respite is not at all worth it. Let the plant rest for at least a month.

Aerial roots and monstera formation

Overgrown aerial roots do not always adorn the monstera. But they serve to nourish and moisturize, so you should never cut them off. When spraying monstera, be sure to moisten the aerial roots. By the way, they can be disguised by gathering them in bunches, wrapped in moss or tied to a stem. If the monstera's support is a moss tube, the air roots will grow into it themselves, they will help the vine climb along the grate.

Over the years, Monstera slows down the pace of development. Then, for rejuvenation and stimulation, cut off the top of the vine. Be sure to sprinkle the place of the cut with coal. The operation is carried out in the spring, when the plant has not yet begun to grow. This gives impetus to the awakening of the lateral kidneys. And the top (it is necessary to leave 2-3 internodes on it) is rooted to get a new plant.

Monstera "cries", does not grow, turns yellow + other care errors (table)

Diseases and pests (table)

Video: monster care

reproduction

Monstera can be grown from daughter shoots, stem and apical cuttings, as well as from seeds. The plant does not propagate by leaves or aerial roots. The daughter shoots that appear on the stem are bred from March to June, at the same time cuttings are carried out.

How to propagate by apical and stem cuttings

1. Cut short cuttings, this can be a tip with 2-3 internodes or pieces of a stem with 1-2 leaves. Make the top cut straight and the bottom cut oblique.
2. Powder the slices with crushed coal, dry.
3. Put drainage and about 2 cm of a mixture of peat and humus soil in a container, on top of 3 cm of sand (sterilize everything beforehand).
4. Plant cuttings. The node from which aerial roots grow must be buried halfway.
5. Cover the seedlings with glass or clear plastic.
6. Place in a warm (20–25°C) place with diffused light.
7. Moisten the plantings, preventing the top layer from drying out, spray about every other day.
8. After rooting, plant young monsters in separate pots.

Cuttings can be rooted in water. But this is not the best option for monstera. Roots accustomed to water do not adapt to the soil. The plant will get sick and grow new roots after planting in a pot.

Child (lateral) processes

1. On the monstera stem, select a layering - an escape with a leaf from which the strongest aerial roots come.
2. Wrap them with moistened moss, and loosely on top polyethylene film by creating a greenhouse on the plant.
3. Keep the moss moist by spraying it regularly.
4. Wait for the layering to grow its roots.
5. After about one and a half to two months, if the roots have grown, cut off the cuttings from the plant and plant them in a pot.

seeds

For sowing, take only fresh seeds, they do not store for a long time.

1. Wrap the planting material in a cloth and soak overnight in a solution of growth stimulants (Epin, Zircon).
2. Put wet sphagnum moss in a plastic bag, spread the seeds on top.
3. Place the bag in a warm (not lower than 25 degrees) place.
4. Moisten crops regularly.
5. In a month and a half, shoots will hatch.
6. Plant young monstera sprouts in separate pots.
7. Keep in a bright and warm room.
8. Seedlings develop slowly. At first, they will have uncut leaves. Only a year later, 3-4 true leaves will appear.

Video: seed monstera - a useful experience

Video: monstera description and propagation by cuttings