The internal insulation of the attic has an undeniable advantage - the possibility of carrying out thermal insulation work regardless of the season. However, this approach has several important nuances, ignoring which can nullify all efforts and financial investments. It is easier to prevent undesirable consequences than to eliminate them, agree?

We will tell you how to act correctly in order to avoid mistakes. In the article, we described the features of the use of different heat-insulating materials, gave advice on choosing the best insulation, and also told how to avoid condensation in the roofing cake.

The detailed attic roof insulation technology will help you do all the work yourself, without resorting to the help of specialists.

There are a lot of heaters. However, not all of them are recommended for installation in a residential attic. The attic space is characterized by a fairly high humidity due to the rise of heated air from the lower floors of the cottage. Plus, one should not forget about environmental friendliness and material safety.

If the attic is non-residential, then at the expense of natural ventilation through the vents, spotlights and dormers, the steam quickly disappears from it into the street. As a result, condensation does not form inside, and rafter system unaffected by excessive moisture.

In the attic, the situation is different. When it is warmed, it is necessary to create a barrier for the heat to escape to the outside and reduce air exchange with the street. As a result, all the steam remains inside the attic rooms.

Therefore, if the insulation is not reliably protected from moisture, then it will not last long. After all, any thermal insulation material after getting wet, it partially or completely loses its properties.

When choosing a heater, it is necessary to evaluate it:

• thermal conductivity;
• vapor permeability;
• volume weight;
• combustibility;
• soundproofing;
• environmental safety.

If you choose too heavy material, then the rafters will be overloaded. And the attic is often equipped from a non-residential attic. Rafter beams, in this case, are not designed for unnecessary additional loads. It's not worth trying your luck here.

In terms of thermal conductivity, most heaters on the market are similar. It is only necessary to choose the right thickness to achieve the required thermal insulation parameters.

It is not recommended to use sprayed polyurethane or foil polyethylene for insulation of the attic from the inside due to the high risk in case of making the slightest mistake when installing condensation directly on wooden rafters

From the entire range of thermal insulation materials, for internal insulation lofts are most suitable - mineral wool(basalt) and. Moreover, the first option is more preferable than the second. Mineral wool is not combustible and has better sound insulation.

It is not worth taking glass wool because of its predisposition to crumbling. Small glass particles are very dangerous for humans. And ordinary foam is also not recommended for use in the attic. Compared to XPS, it is more flammable and environmentally harmful. In addition, it will have to be laid in a thicker layer.

Dew point problem

Ideally, the roof in the attic should be insulated from the outside at the stage of forming the roofing pie. However, often this is done the other way around from the inside, when the house is already covered with a roof. And here certain problems arise.

Correct and perfect roofing cake - several layers of different materials laid on top of the rafters tightly on top of each other without gaps. Such a sandwich guarantees that it will be located on its outer side. As a result, all the condensate formed outside will quickly evaporate into the atmosphere.

When warming mansard roof from the inside it is extremely important to leave between the insulation and existing roof clearance for ventilation and evaporation of condensate formed due to temperature differences

Making insulation from the inside, after the installation of the roof, it is impossible to form the exemplary roofing pie described above. It will not work to press the insulation against the roof so that there are no voids between them at all.

But steam always moves towards cold air. And then, each of the formed cavities will begin to accumulate condensate and moisture in itself. And this is a direct path to damage to the thermal insulation material and wooden elements rafter system.

With internal insulation of the attic, the dew point has to be shifted into the space between the laid roof and the insulation, leaving an additional gap of 5–10 cm for ventilation there. Only such a technology and such a cake will make it possible to avoid moistening the heat-insulating material.

To achieve proper air exchange in the under-roof space, it is recommended to install deflectors on the ridge and provide special holes in the eaves

To reduce the amount of water vapor in the insulation, its installation should be carried out using a vapor barrier film. A vapor barrier is mounted from the inside of the attic on top of the thermal insulation material.

The steam must first encounter this film and for the most part remain in the room. The less it gets into the insulation layer, the better.

Mansard roof insulation technology

To insulate the attic from the inside correctly, you need to create a cake of five layers, starting from the roof inward:

1. Ventilated air.
2. Wind-moisture insulation from a vapor-permeable membrane.
3. Vapor barrier.
4. Attic ceiling lining.

Vapor barrier is made of glassine, polyethylene or polypropylene film. Most the best way- special membranes, in which one side is rough and the other is smooth. With these materials, the risk of condensation directly on them is reduced to almost zero.

For a vapor barrier material, the vapor permeability should not exceed several tens of grams / m2 per day, for vapor-permeable membranes this figure is hundreds of grams / m2 per day and more - these films cannot be confused

For the organization of wind-moisture insulation, membranes are suitable:

• porous;
• two-layer film;
• three-layer superdiffusion;
• perforated.

Superdiffusion membranes will last the longest and are most effective. However, they are more expensive than other options.

At the same time, it is recommended to use perforated fabrics and films when insulating a residential attic only as a last resort. They are more designed for waterproofing cold sloped roofs in non-residential attics.

When installed with a heater in a warm room, these materials in very coldy often covered with frost, which reduces their vapor permeability to nothing.

Layer #1 - Ventilation underlays

Before you start insulating the attic from the inside with your own hands, you first need to treat the wood of the rafters with antiseptics and flame retardants. Only then will it be possible to start forming a heat-insulating cake.

It is best to mount the insulation from the inside of the attic on a special crate under the rafters, but most often this material, together with the upper vapor-permeable film, has to be laid between the rafters

If the insulation is knocked out from below the rafters, then the interior space of the attic will be reduced. The thickness of the heat-insulating cake often reaches 30–40 cm. If these centimeters are taken away from the top and sides, then the room may turn out to be too low and small.

At the same time, the installation option with a lining of the crate under the rafters and laying insulation on it eliminates the appearance of cold bridges. If mineral wool or EPPS is inserted between the beams, then they themselves and the gaps that form over time in the heat-insulating layer near them will draw heat from the attic.

To ensure that ventilation in the under-roof space meets the requirements of SNiPs, deflectors or other air outlets should be provided on the ridge.

The steam, together with the air currents, must rise to the highest point of the roof and leave from there completely outside. Moreover, this should happen without obstacles and as quickly as possible.

Before stuffing the membrane onto the rafters, you must first correctly calculate the thickness of the insulation. If the heat-insulating layer turns out to be larger than the size of the rafters, then you will have to build them up with bars. The main insulation material should be inside this frame, and not protrude from it.

Layer #2 - Vapor Permeable Membrane

In the upper part of the roofing cake being formed, there should be a material with high vapor permeability from the insulation to the street and high waterproofing in reverse side. The task of this membrane is not to prevent the release of steam from the thermal insulation, while not letting water and moisture into it, which can drip from a leaky roof.

Most best material for this vapor-permeable layer, which also performs the functions of wind and moisture protection, these are superdiffusion membranes. They are not clogged with dust and ice formed from condensate in severe frosts.

Laying of such membranes is carried out horizontal stripes overlap 10–15 cm top row on the bottom from the outside. As a result, a single canvas should be obtained, if drops of water fall on it through the roof from the street, they would flow down without falling into the insulation.

The joints of the rows of the membrane from the inside of the attic are glued with mounting tape. It should be taken under the same brand as the breathable film.

The composition of the adhesive and the material of the membrane from one manufacturer are selected so as not to harm each other and to hold securely in the glued state for many years. If they are taken under different trademarks, then problems are possible.

Layer #3 - the main insulation

The thickness of the insulation is selected in accordance with SNiP 23-02-2003. To this end, appropriate calculations are carried out, which take into account climatic conditions, features of the design and construction of the roof, as well as the characteristics of the heat-insulating material and the inner lining of the attic.

It is not worth laying insulation with an excessively thick layer because of wasted money, and its too thin layer may not provide the required thermal protection

Manufacturers of thermal insulation give in the instructions for the material sold and post on their official websites detailed recommendations for determining this thickness. It is best to focus on these calculations.

Installation of insulation is carried out from the inside of the attic on top of the laid vapor-permeable membrane. If mineral wool is chosen, then it must be cut into pieces with dimensions 2-3 cm wider than the gaps between the rafters or the battens. The mineral wool should enter between them with a slight pressure and stay there due to the expansion.

EPS will have to be laid on top of the rafters, and not between them. The plates of this insulation are mounted end to end to each other. If you put them inside the rafters, like mineral wool, then through holes will appear in the heat-insulating layer.

Some craftsmen fill such gaps mounting foam from a balloon. However, this should not be done. This can damage the membrane due to chemical reaction spray foam components and vapor-permeable film material.

It is better to take 10–25 cm from the attic from above and from the sides to the crate with EPS, rather than get a layer of protection with through holes.

Layer #4 - vapor barrier film

On top of the insulation inside attic, a vapor barrier made of glassine or polypropylene or polyethylene film. The task of this layer is to keep water vapor out of the room into the insulation. It is laid in the same way as the very first vapor-permeable coating.

The joints of the vapor barrier should be given maximum attention - if you leave even the slightest gaps in them, then the steam will find these gaps and wet the heat-insulating material

In addition to the usual film, you can also take foil. The extra layer of foil will reflect most of the heat energy back into the attic, reducing heating costs. In this case, the installation of such a film is carried out with “aluminum” inside.

The vapor barrier is fastened with stapler staples or carnations with a wide hat. And in places where the film adjoins cables, pipes and structural elements skylights, it should be additionally reinforced with a special one-sided tape with a heat-reflecting coating.

Layer #5 - ceiling sheathing

At the end of the attic insulation, the crate is stuffed under the cladding. It is made of bars with a thickness of 15-25 mm, so that a small ventilation gap remains above the vapor barrier.

Condensation due to improper vapor barrier and how to get rid of it:

At self-insulation attic from the inside, when the roof is already covered, it is important to choose the right thickness of the heat-insulating material. And more importantly, to correct installation without gaps in the vapor barrier and wind-moisture insulation.

If protective films there will be gaps on both sides of the insulation, then it will get wet and stop protecting the house from the cold.

Do you have experience with attic insulation from the inside? Or want to ask questions on the topic? Please comment on the publication, share your knowledge and participate in discussions. Block feedback located below.

Heating your own home, especially in the cold season, is not very cheap. Moreover, its effectiveness falls if certain conditions are not met.

Many, wanting to make the house warmer, focus, for the most part, on its walls. This is unlikely to save you, you will still have to spend a lot on heating. Hot air will escape, rising up, under the roof.

Before spending money on heating and heating the roof, it must be insulated, taking into account the structure of the residential attic floor and all the features of its operation.

Let's say you don't plan on making a mansard roof habitable. However, in this case, thermal insulation is indispensable here. So that the rest of the house area does not suffer from heat loss due to the cold attic, it is necessary to insulate the entire attic floor, it is enough to make only the insulation of the attic floor.

Let's still consider with you the option when you still plan to equip the attic for winter living. But in this case, you can’t do without a properly insulated roof.

Dependence on climatic conditions

Mansard roof insulation materials and their possible uses largely depend on the region where you live. In SNIP you can see the average temperatures of your climate zone. In the event that the temperature in winter is not sky-high, then there will be no need to insulate "in Siberia". And, accordingly, vice versa. The lower the temperature in the region, the more seriously it is necessary to approach the issue of thermal insulation of the attic room.

Below is a list of parameters that must be considered when choosing a thermal insulation material:

• Materials used in the construction of walls
• Pediment (its thickness)
• climate zone
• Type of roof - mansard, pitched, etc.
• The existing load on the roof and floors

An insulated mansard roof needs high-quality thermal insulation materials that will perform their functions well. But it is possible to insulate the attic floor with the help of simple materials, such as expanded clay filler and even sawdust.

The choice of material for insulation of the attic floor

Most important criteria to be taken into account:

• Service life declared by the manufacturer
• Thermal conductivity values ​​(they should be as low as possible)
• Indifference from insects, rodents and all kinds of fungi, but the material must be environmentally friendly and safe for you
• The incombustibility of materials is perhaps the most serious requirement for insulation, it cannot be neglected

You have to do quite a lot of work. After all residential attic needs insulation of roof slopes, ceilings, walls and floors. Otherwise, the insulation will turn into an unnecessary waste of money, and the result will not be achieved - the attic will remain uninhabitable in winter.

All of the above work is carried out from inside the attic room, and, of course, this will reduce the amount of living space.

To avoid a large loss of attic space, you should choose materials with a minimum thickness, but good thermal insulation qualities.

You should also find out the approximate weight of the material. After all, it will be necessary to calculate the final load on the rafters and beams. This is necessary to understand whether they will withstand, or additional strengthening of the roof structure will be required.

Some heaters require the construction of additional structures made of wood and chipboard, and this creates an additional load on the roof. Also keep in mind that some heaters without proper waterproofing can add weight.

Mounting methods. A plate of ordinary polystyrene is glued, or attached to the surface with screws. For mineral wool and bulk materials, the board frame described above is required.

Pay special attention to waterproofing. After all, rain and snow are in contact, first of all, with the roof, creating the danger of moisture penetrating inside.
Do not think that waterproofing will take you too much energy. After all, materials that are not afraid of moisture have long been invented. Expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam are a prime example of this.

Heaters like mineral wool should be waterproofed with foil or film. When moisture gets in, this material will “gain weight”, turning into a wet lump. This is "cured" only by a replacement, which entails additional expenses.

Also keep in mind that a number of heat-insulating materials with a constant temperature difference lose their properties or are completely destroyed.

How to insulate the roof of the attic

The owner of the house can choose a heater for every taste and a pocket for arranging his attic. Expanded polystyrene, mineral wool and foam glass will perfectly cope with their direct duties, and you will not be left without pants.

Polystyrene and expanded polystyrene are leading in the list of budget heaters. You can buy it in plates of the required size.

This material for insulating a mansard roof is 90% air, and therefore their thermal conductivity tends to zero.

Styrofoam has one significant disadvantage - many of its modifications are flammable. But at the same time, the load on the roof will be minimal, the waterproofing qualities are at their best, and it is absolutely not subject to attacks by rodents and mold.

In order for the material to have no cons at all, purchase polystyrene foam, which contains an ingredient that makes this material non-combustible. The worst thing that can happen to him is smoldering, but it is unlikely to lead to a fire.

Mineral wool has excellent environmental performance, being practically harmless to you. Materials of this kind are the product of processing other things harmless to humans, such as rocks.

It does not burn, perfectly soundproofs the space, and the service life will pleasantly surprise you. But there are still disadvantages to this method of thermal insulation.

As already mentioned, mineral wool is able to absorb moisture and become unusable if it is not waterproofed with a film or foil. This leads to the loss of body-insulating and heat-conducting qualities.

During the installation of such material, be sure to protect yourself from getting the smallest particles of the material on the skin and mucous membranes. Work in a mask and gloves, do not allow gaps between the elements of clothing. If the installation technology is observed, glass wool can last up to half a century.

As we wrote above, if your mansard roof is not planned for living, then the process is greatly simplified, being reduced to thermal insulation of ceilings alone.

Stages of floor insulation:

• Installing a wooden frame
• We fall asleep in the intervals of expanded clay, sawdust, or we lay mineral wool
• We put the insulation in several layers - this is necessary to cover the frame from wooden slats
• We waterproof the thermal insulation with a film, or with the help of foil, both from below and from above
• We finish with the flooring of boards for the subsequent installation of flooring

With thermal insulation finished, now we have an additional room that can be used in the summer.

What to do if you plan to use the mansard roof for year-round living?

Thermal insulation in this case will be much more serious.

It will cover all the designs of the attic space:

• roof slopes
• gable structure
• floors

How to properly insulate the roof of the attic diagram

Insulation of the gable of the mansard roof can also be done outside the house. We suggest doing this with polystyrene foam. Installation of plates is carried out with the help of glue, and the design is reinforced with nails "umbrellas".

For further finishing of the insulated wall, we will apply plaster. Before applying the plaster, a special mesh should be used to strengthen the plaster.

Such thermal insulation of the mansard roof from the outside will not steal part of the usable area from you. The service life of this design will be measured in tens of years.

But let's get back to the question of how to insulate a mansard roof from the inside, since unfortunately (or maybe fortunately) it will not work to insulate the roof from the outside.

• First, we stretch the waterproofing material - this is necessary to protect our thermal insulation from moisture
• Preparing insulation - if you use a roll insulation, then it should be cut into pieces with an ordinary clerical knife
• We lay the insulation between the roof rafters, and in case of cracks, we seal them with adhesive tape or foam sealant
• We close the laid insulation with waterproofing ( different kinds films and foils)
• The last step is the cosmetic finish of the attic, on top of the thermal insulation material

Do-it-yourself insulation of the attic roof is not a difficult process, but it requires strict adherence to instructions. Otherwise, moisture condensation on the surfaces of the attic awaits you when the temperature regime changes.

The presence of ventilation is very desirable in this case, because excess moisture can find a way out. A properly made waterproofing will not allow the insulation to absorb water.

Using insulation that is not exposed to moisture, you save yourself from additional work on the waterproofing device.

Nevertheless, ventilation is extremely important. Vapors will circulate, passing unhindered through ceilings and walls.

Do not forget about such an excellent insulation for a mansard roof as polyurethane foam. It is easily applied to the surface to be thermally insulated by spraying. When hardened, this material forms an almost perfect surface, without flaws. It will fill all the gaps and cracks. Moisture is absolutely not terrible for polyurethane foam, and therefore its service life will pleasantly surprise you. In the next 30-50 years, you will not have to remember about insulation!

Approach the process creatively, but wisely. The reward for your construction exploits will be a warm room under a mansard roof. And your caring hostess will turn it into a piece of paradise!

Do-it-yourself attic insulation video

To ensure a comfortable stay in the attic during the year, the owners of the house need to purchase quality look insulation and mount it, taking into account all the nuances. The roofing cake will only last a long time if the attic roof is properly insulated.

Features of mansard roof insulation

If the technology for arranging insulation is observed, a microclimate favorable for human habitation is created indoors. On cold days, it will be warm and comfortable, and in hot weather, the air will not overheat due to the presence of thermal insulation.

Before insulating the roof of the attic, it does not hurt the homeowner to understand the features of the arrangement of the roofing pie and purchase quality tools and building materials.

The process of thermal insulation of mansard roof structures has much in common with the insulation of other types of roofs for private houses, but they are subject to special requirements. This is due to the fact that the walls of such premises either closely adjoin the slopes, or are formed by the slopes of the roof and the gables of the structure. As a result, the air in the attic gets too hot on hot days, and cools down quickly on cold days.

The structure of the roofing pie of the attic roof in the direction from the inner layer to the outer looks like this:

• vapor barrier;
• insulation;
• ventilation gap;
• waterproofing;
• finishing material.

The presence of all of the above layers, according to the attic roof insulation technology, is mandatory, since each of them performs a specific function.

How to insulate the roof of the attic correctly

Increased attention should be paid to ventilation and thermal insulation, since the quality of their arrangement depends on how comfortable it will be on the attic floor. When choosing a heater, thermal conductivity is taken into account - it means the ability to direct heat into the room and in the opposite direction.

The lower this indicator, the better the material will be able to protect the attic from the loss of thermal energy. This means that to ensure the desired level of thermal insulation of the roof, it will be possible to mount a smaller layer of insulation.

Most of the heat in a heated room is lost through the roof, since the heated air always rises. It penetrates through the layers of the roofing cake and moves in the direction of the coating, on which winter time there is a layer of snow.

At sub-zero air temperatures (less than 2 degrees), snow, due to its porous structure and the presence of internal air pockets, performs the function of an external heat insulator.

If the heat loss due to the roof is large, the coating material is very hot, and the snow layers begin to melt. Then, as the temperature drops, the resulting water turns into ice. The presence of a frozen crust is very dangerous for the roof surface - the load on the roof structure increases significantly. When the mansard roof is properly insulated from the inside, the snow does not begin to melt on it in frosty weather.

In the summer heat, excess heat gets into the attic from the roof, and even the air conditioner will not help to provide indoors. comfortable temperature. This problem can be avoided by installing a high-quality thermal insulation layer from the inside of the roof. Of course, in the attic floor the air temperature will be higher than in the rooms located below, but this circumstance will not cause discomfort.

Mansard roof ventilation device

Roof insulation above the attic needs a special approach, which is explained by the peculiarities of its design. Ventilation of a standard roof is provided by the presence of an attic equipped with dormer windows. As for the attic, its ventilation space is only 10-15 centimeters.

When arranging such a roof during the installation of the roof pie, it is important to correctly make the ventilation gap. This space between the layers of waterproofing and insulation should facilitate the removal of excess moisture and prevent overheating of the roof in winter and, as a result, the appearance of an ice crust.

As a result of the arrangement of ventilation, the entire structure will be provided with protection that will prolong operational period roof elements. On hot days, due to the presence of a gap, heat is partially removed from under the roof - this circumstance helps the air in the attic not to overheat.

The choice of thermal insulation material

In preparation for laying the roofing cake, before insulating the attic with broken roof, you need to choose quality material. From him technical parameters depends on the thickness of the future insulation and the number of layers of insulation. On the domestic market of building materials there is a huge selection of products for roofing.

Among them, the most popular are:

• mineral wool;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• glass wool;
• polyurethane foam.

In some cases, foam glass may be used. For internal insulation, such natural materials how wood chips, seaweed and others.

Priority in choosing

When choosing a heat insulator, several technical characteristics are taken into account:

• coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• environmental friendliness;
• fire resistance;
• moisture resistance.

Experts consider the best choice when insulating a mansard roof is a material with a thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.05 W per square meter and less.

The higher the moisture resistance index of the insulation, the longer it will last without loss of functional qualities. An important parameter is the environmental friendliness of the material. For the fire safety of housing, its resistance to fire is of great importance.

Such insulation as mineral wool is produced from molten rocks. It retains heat excellently, is resistant to temperature changes and aggressive environments, does not rot, weakly absorbs moisture. Mats of this material can have different thicknesses, so they are convenient to use when arranging the thermal insulation of a mansard roof.

Molten glass is used to make glass wool. According to its characteristics, this type of insulation has much in common with mineral wool, but it has a thermal threshold below -450 ° C. It is a good sound and heat insulator. But moisture can collect between its fibers, so installation work should be done correctly.

Glass wool and mineral wool are inexpensive, and insulation with their use will cost minimal financial costs. But their use requires laying a thick layer of thermal insulation and a reliable device for hydro- and vapor barrier.

Expanded polystyrene can very effectively insulate the attic without removing the roof. Its thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.05 W/m²K. It is a hydrophobic material that does not allow steam to pass through. Expanded polystyrene can have a flammability class G1 - G4. By the way, polymeric heaters are expensive artificial materials. Therefore, they are not used when they want to build a house only from environmentally friendly products.

It should be noted that natural heaters have good thermal conductivity, but they also have disadvantages. For example, foamed glass is very fragile, and materials such as mats made from straw and reeds, granulated paper, are highly flammable. It is necessary to know how a mansard roof is insulated with natural heat insulators, and to possess the appropriate skills.

Thermal insulation technology

For high-quality installation of insulation when installing a roofing pie, you need to study step by step instructions performance of construction work.

The process of insulating a roof on a house consists of a series of steps:

• preparation for laying insulation;
• installation of thermal insulation;
• fastening material.

The phased arrangement of insulation is as follows:

1. During the development of the project for the construction of the truss structure, it is necessary to determine the installation step of the rafters. At the same time, one should not forget that it should turn out to be strong and reliable, and the gap between the rafter legs cannot exceed the standard values. In the case when the heat-insulating material has already been selected, the rafters are mounted so that the insulation boards fit tightly between them. This technology greatly simplifies installation and minimizes the amount of waste building materials.
2. A layer of waterproofing is mounted between the rafters and the crate above the thermal insulation. Her canvases are overlapped, starting work from the bottom edge of the slope. Each subsequent row should overlap the previous layer by 15 centimeters. The film is fixed on the tree construction stapler. Then counter rails are attached, the thickness of which provides a ventilation gap of sufficient size. The slats are fixed on the rafters with self-tapping screws, although nails can also be used.
3. From the inside of a fully prepared truss structure, the insulation is laid and securely fixed.

The nuances of warming a sloping roof

Rafter legs, which are made of wood or metal, are cold bridges, since their thermal conductivity is worse than that of the heat-insulating materials used. Given this circumstance, when arranging the attic, it is necessary to install a heater not only between the rafters. It is necessary to place a continuous layer of thermal insulation on top of the laid mats, but in this case a thinner material is used.

The above technology improves the quality of insulation. But this method there are disadvantages, these include the fact that as a result the rafters are completely closed and it will be difficult to use them to fix other elements of the roof structure. To ensure further installation work, it is necessary to note the location of the rafters.

A vapor-permeable film is laid on top of the thermal insulation layer, which performs the function of removing excess moisture. Next, the crate is attached. At the final stage of thermal insulation work, the inner lining of the ceiling surface is produced.

The precise implementation of the instructions on how to insulate the sloping roof of the attic allows you to use the living space throughout the year, since a favorable microclimate will be created in it.

Self-insulation of the mansard roof is quite feasible, but for this it is necessary to fulfill the requirements for this type of roofing work.

For a private house, a very reasonable solution would be to insulate the attic roof. Firstly, you use the area more rationally - thanks to the insulation of the roof, the attic does not turn into a large refrigerator for the winter.

There you can arrange an office, workshop, children's playroom or whatever your heart desires. Secondly, you save fuel - through a cold attic, the house loses up to a quarter of all heat, and, of course, you need to heat more and more often. Therefore, the question of how to properly insulate a mansard roof occupies many homeowners.

If you decide to insulate the roof at the design stage, so much the better - then the insulation technology is determined already in the process of building a house, and thus you get “maneuvering space”. In this case, you will have the opportunity to think in advance what suits you more - insulation of the attic roof from the inside or outside - and choose exactly those methods and materials that are best suited for this.

If you are dealing with an already finished building, which it was decided to improve, the only option left is to insulate the mansard roof from the inside. And here the question naturally arises, how best to do this. Of course, a good professional, for whom the thermal insulation of a mansard roof is a common job, will do everything quickly and without problems.

But if you hire a specialist without recommendations, then there can be no complete confidence in the highest possible quality of the result. In addition, it is too expensive for many to use the services of hired workers. And finally, the last argument in favor of insulating the roof of the attic from the inside is just very nice to do something with your own hands.

Where to begin?

How to properly insulate the roof of the attic? First of all, not to be careless and not to succumb to illusions is a difficult, time-consuming and costly job. Therefore, it is better to spend more time preparing the project and drawing up a detailed estimate than to insulate the roof of the attic somehow, and then suffer in a cold or damp room and endlessly repair your house due to condensation that destroys wooden structures.

When preparing for insulation work, it should be borne in mind that the configuration of a sloping roof in terms of arranging a residential attic provides great opportunities compared to a gable roof, since with such a roof contour, the usable volume of the room increases significantly.

How to choose a heater?

The first step should be the proper selection of materials. Choose a roof insulation - not like that simple task as it may seem. The choice of thermal insulation on the market is huge, but you need to choose one for the attic that will provide a stable level of humidity in the room and the absence of sudden temperature fluctuations.

The best insulation should have the following qualities:

• low thermal conductivity, i.e. high heat retention;
• low hygroscopicity, that is, resistance to moisture absorption - a wet insulation significantly loses quality;
• the absence of toxic components in the composition and environmental friendliness - after all, we are talking about a residential area;
• Fire safety.

At the same time, the heat-insulating material for the roof must be vapor-permeable, that is, it must not prevent the free exit of water vapor from the room. If this requirement is neglected, the result will be the accumulation of condensate and a "bathhouse" atmosphere in the room. This in itself is not very pleasant, not to mention the dangers of dampness for attic walls and ceilings.

Another important condition is that the material for insulating the roof of the attic should hold well on inclined surfaces and not deform over time. Finally, it must also meet the requirements of sound insulation - if you leave this moment without attention, then during heavy rain or, even more hail, the top floor would be unusable.

Considering that metal tile or metal corrugated board, which are now most often used as roofing, not only perfectly conduct sound, but even amplify it, you will not be able to sleep, talk or watch TV when something knocks on the roof.

To choose insulation for a mansard roof, you will have to study the many materials that the modern market offers. Almost all heaters have their advantages and disadvantages - for example, ordinary foam plastic, valued by many for its cheapness and ease of processing, is bad because it is not “transparent” enough for moisture rising from the room along with the air. In other words, it is better not to use it for rooms where you plan to stay for a long time, for example, for bedrooms.

Glass wool is traditionally used as a heater, but at the same time it quickly shrinks and loses its shape, and with it - thermal insulation qualities. The main disadvantage of polyurethane foam, which is becoming increasingly popular, is its inability to withstand fire, as well as its rather low vapor permeability. In addition, this material requires rigorous preliminary calculations - the fact is that when it hardens, its structure expands, due to which the entire structure can “creep”. It is necessary to take into account the strength of the load-bearing elements with the utmost precision.

The better to insulate the attic roof, everyone decides for himself, based on his capabilities and the intended purpose of the room. From the point of view of many experts, basalt slabs can be called one of the best roofing thermal insulation - this material is durable and elastic, perfectly retains heat, does not lose its qualities during operation and is not prone to moisture accumulation. Another undoubted advantage is ease of installation. It is due to the fact that basalt slabs have the optimal width for fastening between the rafters and they do not have to be cut to the desired size.

Main rule

Even if you have already decided which insulation is best for you, it is too early to start the work itself. First you need to deal with the sequence of these works, and for this you need to get an idea as a whole about the structure of the insulated roof. Or, as professionals say, a roofing "pie".

Going from top to bottom, the components of the "pie" are as follows:

• the actual roofing (profiling, tiles, slate);
• crate;
• counterlattice;
• waterproofing material;
• thermal insulation;
• vapor barrier;
• ceiling finish.

That is, when installing thermal insulation, the main rule should be taken into account first of all - the insulation must be protected both from external (atmospheric) moisture and from internal moisture rising from the room. Otherwise, the accumulation of condensate is inevitable, which will eventually lead to the most disastrous consequences not only for the under-roof space, but for the whole house.

If you decide to insulate the finished attic roof from the inside, then, as can be seen from the list above, you already have all the layers of the “pie”, up to and including waterproofing. It remains to lay the insulation, cover it with a vapor barrier membrane - and you can finish the ceiling. It would seem that everything is simple. But here it is necessary to strictly follow established rules Otherwise, all your hard work will be in vain.

Work order

Even before you buy materials, you will need to calculate the attic roof area that you want to insulate. When calculating, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe gables must also be taken into account - even the most carefully insulated roof will not have an effect if the cold comes from the ends.

Only when the measurements are completed and everything you need is purchased in the right amount, you can proceed to installation work. Carefully study the instructions for all materials - how to roll them out, how to fasten them, etc. To fix the insulating films and insulation, stock up in advance with the right amount of wooden slats or a construction stapler.

Waterproofing

If you start with waterproofing (let's say you haven't installed it yet), the most important point, which is worth paying attention to, is that between it and roofing material there must be an air gap of at least three centimeters. More is possible, less is not.

This is necessary for proper ventilation under-roof space - if air flows do not pass freely between the waterproofing film and the inside of the coating, this will lead to the accumulation of condensate. And as a result, the insulation, when wet, will lose its beneficial features, the wooden parts of the structure will begin to rot, the metal ones will rust, and in the end, such negligence will shorten the life of your home.

For the same reasons, it is categorically not recommended to use polyethylene and other "non-breathing" materials as waterproofing. Nowadays, the building market offers a wide range of special waterproofing and vapor barrier membranes designed specifically for this purpose and providing an optimal balance between moisture permeability from the inside and impermeability from the outside.

thermal insulation

Next, the heater is installed. Attach it strictly according to the instructions. If you use basalt, keep in mind that it holds well between the rafters due to its elasticity, but over time, the elasticity of the material will decrease somewhat. Therefore, it does not seem appropriate to put it without fixation at all.

vapor barrier

A vapor barrier membrane is applied to the insulation, and only after that the ceiling covering is mounted.

Conclusion

How to insulate a mansard roof in general terms understandably. The main rules here, as with any construction work- thoroughness, accuracy, accuracy. Follow the correct sequence during installation, follow the rules for working with materials, buy insulation and membranes only from trusted sellers and manufacturers. And then your warm attic will delight you for many more years.

To date, the insulation of the mansard roof is very popular in construction.

The construction of houses with mansard roofs is very relevant in the suburban area and is widespread.

Attic houses are not only very presentable externally, but also provide an opportunity to increase the usable area from the inside.

Their only drawback is the scheme of full contact of the walls and ceiling of the attic with the street, which creates certain problems with thermal insulation.

This can cause a loss of about 30% of heat and create condensation from the inside.

This is due to the fact that warm air, as it rises, will collide with cold roof, which will subsequently lead to the occurrence of fungi, mold, and possibly rot.

Therefore, if you do not want to have all these problems, then it is better to take care of thermal insulation in advance. The article tells how to make the insulation of the attic roof correctly.

Varieties of heaters

• Mineral wool (a convenient material that is slightly compressed during installation, after which it straightens itself and fits exactly into the nest);
• Polyurethane foam (sprayed directly onto the surface);
• Ecowool (the content of the antiseptic in the composition prevents damage to the insulation and wood);
• Styrofoam (lightweight material that does not weigh down the roof).

Polyfoam is one of the most popular. Styrofoam is used for insulation of pitched and flat roof and most importantly, it is ideal for ceilings in the attic floor.

Styrofoam insulation can be carried out both on an open roof and after laying the roofing.

Why styrofoam?

The material has undeniable advantages, thanks to which it occupies one of the leading positions in the market.

Here are the main ones:

• Polyfoam has low absorbency, so moisture simply flows down it without getting inside the material;
• It is light in weight, which significantly reduces the load on the roof structure from the inside;
• Quite easy to install;
• Has a low cost;
• Conforms to accepted heat conduction standard.

If you decide to use foam, then you should not forget about the two main disadvantages, such as vapor impermeability and high flammability.

You can avoid them if you good ventilation attic and adhere to established fire safety standards.

Room preparation

Before you buy materials and start warming the house, you need to study and prepare the room from the inside as best as possible, especially if you plan to do all the work yourself.

For this you need:

If you plan to insulate the roof of the house with your own hands, then when choosing foam sheets, do not forget about some important points:

• It is necessary to choose the right size of the sheets so that during the installation of the elements, their joints are as small as possible;
• Proper insulation of the house is carried out with polystyrene foam along a broken line, the thickness of which is at least 10 mm .;
• The higher the density of the material, the greater its strength under mechanical stress and the better the thermal insulation;
• Read the specifications on the package. Buy only quality material.

Remember: the foam has good sound conductivity and it is better to buy an additional layer of special sound insulation (at least 5 cm thick) and install it from the inside of the decorative sheathing.

At correct device do-it-yourself installation, all external sounds will be absorbed by the soundproofing layer, and will not disturb the peace and quiet in your home.

Mounting technology

The insulation of the mansard roof from the inside is quite simple and its scheme is quite suitable for properly installing the material with your own hands.

First you need to lay the waterproofing film.

That's right, use a special roofing film (Izospan is most often taken), with a broken membrane structure that releases steam only in one direction, from inside the room to the outside.

The film is laid on top of the rafters across, without stretching along the entire length of the roof (do-it-yourself device assumes a possible slight sagging).

Make sure that a smooth water vapor barrier is on the outside. The next strip of film is laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm, and special adhesive tape is used to glue the joints.

When installing with your own hands, remember that an air gap must be left between the layer of films and the crate.

To do this, five-centimeter bars are nailed to the rafters on top of the film, boards for the crate are installed on the bars, and only after that, the roof covering is laid.

Styrofoam sheets are laid between the rafters, excluding any gaps. You can cut them with a clerical or ordinary long knife using a metal ruler.

Sheets with insulation are attached to the rafters using auxiliary rails or polystyrene glue.

If the rafters have a circular cross section, then fixing with glue is not enough.

Proper fastening is done by filing from the boards, which will hold the foam layer in several places.

After laying, voids may remain along the broken line, they can be filled with construction foam.

Useful advice: to increase the service life of foam sheets, experts recommend using, in addition to glue, mounting screws and dowels.

This fastening prolongs the shelf life and reliability of the design.

If you do not remove the space along the broken line, then cold air and condensate will accumulate from the inside, causing smudges and rotting processes.

To exclude this, you can lay sheets with foam in 2 layers also along a broken line, covering the lower joints with the top layer. The top and bottom layers are glued together.

For additional soundproofing of the space, soundproofing mats made of fibrous material are used.

It should be remembered that the fiber absorbs moisture well, so it must be covered with a vapor barrier anti-condensation film.

The film is overlapped along a broken line, while gluing the joints and fixing it on the rafters (filing), construction or furniture stapler.

With the help of wooden bars or profiles that serve as guides, the skin is attached.

When choosing their thickness, remember that it is necessary to leave a space for ventilation of at least 3-5 cm. For sheathing, natural materials are mainly used, on which condensation cannot form.