Sharpening a chainsaw chain is easy. True, subject to the use of special tools. Without them, it is impossible to cope with the task: the saw chain has a very complex geometry.
Chainsaw chain sharpening in progress ripping as needed. The more intensively the saw is used, the faster its chain becomes dull. In some cases, during the day you need to perform several sharpening. The fastest tire loses its sharpness when in contact with the soil. It is enough to hook the ground with it several times, as the chips become small, and the tool refuses to go deep into the wood.
Timely sharpening of the chainsaw chain for longitudinal sawing not only speeds up work, but also extends the life of the chain. Determining the moment when it needs to be sharpened is easy. Dull teeth are indicated by the need to increase the feed force during sawing. A dull chain can also be recognized by small chips - ideally, large thick chips should fly out from under the tire.
The nuances of sharpening
If you decide to buy a chainsaw, you will not regret it - they sell high-quality devices that can last for many years. The main thing - do not forget to sharpen the saw chain in time.
To obtain ideal cutting properties, certain angles are attached to the blades of the teeth. The back of the tooth, falling back, forms the angle of the blade (rear). It is necessary for cutting the chain into wood. The blade, tapering back, is needed to cut the chips in the assembly. In other words, each corner plays its role.
The angle of sharpening the chain can be changed, starting from the features of its application. For example, for longitudinal sawing, it should be 10 degrees.
General sharpening rules
The internal contours of the chainsaw chain are shaped like a circle. A small round file is used to sharpen them. It must be held with a confident hand and at a certain angle. The upper edge of the file in relation to the edge of the tooth should protrude by about 20% of the tool diameter. When choosing the diameter of the file, you need to start from the chain pitch.
One file is not enough for you. When sharpening the chain, use a special kit sold with a chainsaw or purchased separately. Sets of this kind consist of a hook for cleaning the chain from chips, a round file and a flat file used when filing the depth gauge.
The first chainsaws appeared at the beginning of the 20th century. The chains installed on them with straight and flat teeth, like those of modern hacksaws, were notable for their low efficiency, quickly became dull and required very labor-intensive maintenance. For example, when sharpening, it was necessary to take into account that the teeth are divided into undercutting, cutting and shearing, have different cutting angles and orientation in relation to the direction of movement (they can be deflected to the left, right or located in the center).
There is no doubt that attempts to modernize circuits have been made repeatedly, but only one of them has been successful. Developed by Joseph Cox and implemented in metal in 1947, the new chain for universal sawing with an L-shaped contour cutting angle, thanks to increased productivity and simplified sharpening, very quickly forced its predecessor out of the market, and now almost all saw chains"flaunt" the characteristic sickle-shaped profile of the cutting links.
Technical parameters of saw chains
picking up chain for chainsaw, pay attention to its characteristics such as purpose, pitch, thickness of the drive link, profile height and depth of cut.
It is known that sawing wood along the fibers is more laborious than across, and for best results, it is desirable to use chains that are appropriate for the task.
The main difference between longitudinal and transverse type chains is the angles of attack of the cutting links. For lateral sawing chains, they are 25-35 degrees, for longitudinal sawing angles are sharper - from 5 to 15 degrees.
The use of chains inconsistent with their purposes threatens either with reduced productivity (if cross cutting is carried out with a longitudinal chain), or with increased “aggressiveness”, strong vibration and additional load on the engine. However, many users prefer not to waste time replacing the chain and rip cuts are made with the same chain as the rip cuts, especially if the “quality” of the resulting cut does not require compliance with the “highest” level. Therefore, rip saw chains are in demand in smaller quantities, and they are produced in volume proportionate to demand. It is not surprising that it is much more difficult to buy such a chain than a transverse one. And the issue of their acquisition becomes really relevant if it is planned to use special machines like mini-sawmills.
The larger the chain pitch, the larger the links that make it up and the higher its performance.
Chain pitch- the distance between three consecutive rivets, divided by two. This is the defining parameter, and depending on its value, all existing chains are divided into five groups with a step of 1/4″, 0.325″, 3/8″, 0.404″ and 3/4″.
Step 1/4″(6.35 mm) is inherent in miniature chains mounted on low-power single-handed saws. True, in Russia they are practically not used.
Chains with steps 0.325″(8.25 mm) and 3/8″(9.3 mm) - the most common options. More than 80% of the saws produced around the world are equipped with them.
Steps 0.404″(10.26 mm) and 3/4″(19.05 mm) feature chains with larger links and higher performance. For several decades, they were equipped with Russian-made saws, but now they are installed only on powerful felling saws and harvester equipment.
The step is traditionally measured in inches, and is written as follows: three digits are ordinary, and two are decimal fractions. This is necessary to avoid confusion. In particular, the result of translating 3/8″ into decimal is 0.375 ″ - the difference with the previous standard (0.325 ″) is just one digit.
The larger the chain pitch, the larger the links that make it up and the higher its performance. But, on the other hand, the wider the cut, and a more powerful saw is required to overcome the cutting resistance. Chains with a small pitch have other advantages - a greater number of teeth per unit length, smooth movement in the cut and, accordingly, reduced vibration. And the cut they get is cleaner.
Drive link thickness(shank) - the second most important parameter. During operation, the chain slides in the groove of the bar, and this sliding should be smooth, without hooks and at the same time without unnecessary “chatter”. In a word, the thickness of the shank and the thickness of the groove must strictly correspond to each other, increasing the reliability of the chain fit and excluding the possibility of its “jump”. The international community of manufacturers provides five standard sizes, measured in inches or millimeters (whichever suits you): 1.1 mm (0.043″), 1.3 mm (0.050″), 1.5 mm (0.058″), 1.6 mm (0.063″) and 2.0 mm (0.080″).
1.1 mm- such thin drive links are typical for the smallest chains and saws of the corresponding size.
1.3 mm- perhaps the most popular size for household and semi-professional chains.
1.5 mm- ranks second in demand. It is put on more powerful and productive saws.
1.6 mm and 2.0 mm- such thick shanks are found only on chains for highly professional saws.
Profile height. Saw chains are available in high or low profile depending on the height of the cutting edge above the plane of the guide bar. The former are used for professional purposes to obtain maximum performance. The second ones are installed on amateur-class chainsaws, since due to the increased support area of the cutting links and the reduced thickness of the cut chips, they are safer.
Depth of cut - the size of the gap between the upper edge of the tooth and the cut limiter, which regulates the thickness of the chips. Most often, there are samples with gaps of 0.025 ″ (0.635 mm) and 0.030 ″ (0.762 mm), less often - with gaps up to 0.070 ″ (1.778 mm), but they are intended for machine felling units.
The depth of cut largely determines the productivity of the chain, the speed of its sawing. The larger the gap, the higher the performance. But in the pursuit of efficiency, one should not forget about vibration: chains with a small depth of cut in the cut move softer, “twitch” less. Therefore, manufacturers, in an effort to balance vibration and performance, very often install cutters with a minimum depth of cut on chains with a large pitch, and vice versa .
Engine capacity. This parameter characterizes the saw and, it would seem, has nothing to do with the chain itself. However, in the catalogs and brief annotations to the chains, the volumes of the engines they are designed to work with are often given. And these recommendations should be followed. A chain installed on an engine that is too powerful for it will experience heavy loads and fail prematurely, without having worked out its motor resource. Option mi loads on the motor and other important components of the saw itself.
Components of a chain
Any saw chain is made up of three types of links: cutting, leading (shanks) and connecting. The strength of the connection is provided by rivets.
cutting link- perhaps the most complex part of the saw chain, which actually consists of two parts: a cut depth limiter and a cutting element with an L-shaped contour cutting angle.
The upper cutting edge of the link is always wider than the chain itself and the bar, due to which the cut is quite free, and the cutting resistance is minimal. The tooth works on the principle of a planer: the further the knife (upper cutting edge) is extended above the plane of the planer (cutting limiter), the thicker the chip.
The performance characteristics of the cutting link are determined by numerous factors, namely: the angle of sharpening of the upper edge and its working, cutting angle, the angle of the side edge (angle of attack) and the height of the cutting limiter. When sharpening, the values of all these parameters must be clearly maintained, since even a small change can lead to negative consequences.
The cutting teeth are right-handed and left-handed, and fasten them alternately. But in general, incisors are divided into types depending on their profile. Upon careful study of the "figures" formed by the upper and side faces, two "boundary" options can be distinguished: the "seven" with an acute angle between the edges and the rounded "sickle". The first option is called a chisel (from the English chisel - a cutter, a chisel), the second is a chipper (from the English to chip - to chop into chips).
Chisel teeth are characterized by high productivity and sawing speed. Due to their configuration, they have a smaller area of contact with wood during operation, which reduces cutting resistance. This is a professional option, but it is very sensitive to an abrasive environment, it quickly dulls when working with “dirty” wood, and when sharpening it requires a clear exposure to all angles and parameters.
A crescent-shaped profile - a chipper - is less effective, since it has a slightly larger area of contact with wood, but it is also much easier to care for it - a rounded corner does not respond so painfully to minor errors during sharpening. Such links are good when working with contaminated wood.
All other profile options are various modifications of the two described above.
The top and side faces of the cutting element are usually covered with a thin film of some solid metal. Most often it is chromium, but sometimes a nickel-phosphorus alloy is used. The electroplated coating significantly improves the anti-friction properties of parts, increases wear resistance, hardness and, in fact, performs all the main work of cutting wood fibers. The steel "core" serves as a substrate or base for the coating.
Leading links(shanks) provide chain movement by transmitting rotation from the engine through the drive sprocket, as well as a stable position of the chain on the bar. In this case, the chain moves along a special groove provided in the design of the guide bar. The "side" duty of the leading link is the distribution of lubricant from the leading sprocket (where it is supplied oil pump) throughout the bus and circuit. It should be noted that the number of shanks plays a major role in determining the chain length for a given bar length, making it easier right choice and fit to size.
Connecting links, corresponding to their name, combine the cutting and leading parts into a single whole, called a saw chain.
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Technological improvements
The cutting link concept developed by Joseph Cox has changed little over the years. Of course, they tried to modernize it, but all the improvements that were made concerned either the lubrication system or the fight against vibration and kickback.
Lubrication system. Chain and bar lubrication is very important. The design of chain saws includes a pump that supplies oil from the tank to the cutting system through special holes. But then it is distributed by the chain itself. The shanks, passing the sprocket, “capture” the lubricant and “pull it apart” throughout the tire and chain. For this reason, the lower part of them is designed in the form of a hook - so that they “grab” more and “lose” less. For additional retention of lubricant, special holes are drilled in the shanks or channels are milled. In the lubrication system, connecting links are often also used - they make additional recesses for lubrication.
Abundant lubrication reduces friction and heat, thereby not only increasing the life of each element, but also reducing chain stretch. So constant control over the lubrication process is in the interests of each user. It is carried out quite simply: when the chain is accelerated, microscopic drops of oil (if it is supplied in abundance) form an oil trail in the form of a strip on any light surface (for example, on a tree trunk that is going to be sawn), if bring the end of the tire to it. The lack of a trace is an alarm signal indicating a lack of lubrication and requires an immediate solution to the problem (checking for oil, cleaning the tire groove, adjusting the pump, etc.). And one more thing: modern chainsaws allow the installation of chains and tires of various lengths, but before using a new headset, you need to make sure that the oil pump can handle it.
To improve the lubrication process, many manufacturers in Russia offer special oils. They are made on a vegetable basis (for example, rapeseed) using polymer additives, self-neutralizing within two hours upon contact with plants and soil. In addition to the environmental benefits, the lubricating properties of these oils are 30% higher than those of automotive oils. Yes, and their consumption is about 25% less.
Fight vibration and kickback.Vibration is dangerous because as a result of its prolonged exposure (as happens, for example, among professional fellers), the so-called Raynaud's symptom may develop: as a result of a deterioration in blood supply, the fingertips lose their sensitivity and react painfully to temperature changes.
The desire of manufacturers to reduce the harmful effects of high-frequency vibrations is mainly reduced to the development of special shock-absorbing parts. Vibration is caused by constant collisions between cutting teeth and wood. At the moment when the cutter hits the wood with its working edge, it stops for a fraction of a second, being sandwiched between the wood and the guide rail. In this case, part of the wave impact energy is transferred through the chain and the drive sprocket to the operator's hands. Another part is also communicated through the chain to the guide bar and, again, to the operator's hands. If you reduce the force of impact, then the level of vibration will also decrease.
The beveled cut limiter helps to reduce shaking - thanks to it, the chain moves softer, the tree slides off the cutting tooth more smoothly. The same purpose is served by special shock-absorbing protrusions of the leading and connecting links.
Another effective method- beveled or overestimated heel of the cutting link. This design allows the saw chain to sag slightly at the moment the cutting tooth hits the wood, and the link does not immediately hit the tire, and the force of this impact is noticeably reduced. As a result, not only vibration is reduced, but also bar and chain wear.
These structural elements are designed to help with reverse impact - a situation that occurs when the user touches a hard surface with the toe of the tire while the chain is moving (if we draw an analogy with the clock dial - the sector "from 12 to 3 hours"). In this case, the saw bounces sharply, creating a traumatic moment. A beveled cutter stop and cushioning lugs minimize this effect.
Link order
Saw chains are classified based on their dimensions, design features and the order of the links. It can be standard, semi-pass or pass. In the first case, each cutter has two leading links. In the second, every third cutting link is replaced by a connecting one. And, finally, in the third case, a connecting link is installed in place of each second cutting link.
It is almost impossible to buy a finished chain with a “non-standard” alternation of links - they are not found in stores. Another thing is if the chain is riveted on its own. An artificially high distance between cutters reduces their number, and, consequently, reduces the cost. However, increasing this distance increases vibration, reduces productivity and sawing speed.
Saw chain care and maintenance
The saw set - that is, the chain, tire and drive sprocket - is consumable, and, of course, when acquiring the user, the question is: how long will this material last? But here there is no exact answer, since the “shelf life” of the above details largely depends on the type of work that will be performed with their help, on the degree of care for them, etc. Contaminated cutting material and careless handling significantly reduce the service life. For example, if during operation you touch the ground with the tip of the tire, then sharpening quickly “leaves” - sand (i.e. abrasive) in combination with high speed of movement very quickly “demolish” it. A nail in an old log cut for firewood can sometimes destroy even a new chain without hope of resuscitation. And there is no need to remind that such moments are dangerous not only for the chain and saw, but also for the operator himself.
If all the parts are lubricated on time and with high quality, the teeth get proper and accurate sharpening, then one tire will be enough for about one drive sprocket and three or four chains. Moreover, it is advisable to use the chains in turn: today - one, tomorrow - the other, and so on in a circle. Then the tire, sprocket and the chains themselves will wear out evenly. If you use only one chain, leaving the others “in reserve”, then when the turn comes to them, they will work with “slip”, experiencing additional dynamic shocks while moving, and will fail much faster. And all because the leading sprocket will wear out under the configuration of the shanks of the first chain.
Running in a new chain- the sequence of actions recommended by specialists, providing it with a long "working" life. The first step is to soak the chain in oil for several hours. The meaning of the event is obvious: the lubricant has time to flow into all the small cracks, reliably “impregnate” the parts and rubbing joints. The second step is to install the chain on the tire and briefly "run" at idle. After stopping the engine, you need to check the tension of the chain and, if necessary, tighten it, after cooling it down. And after that, after making several cuts with minimal pressure on the tire and rechecking the chain tension, proceed directly to work.
chain tension- very important point. A chain that is not tight enough will wobble and may come off the bar or even snap. Constriction also does not bode well - this is excessive wear and increased engine loads. In addition, the design of almost all Piltakov, that the tension of the chain strengthens the tire - in the "relaxed" state, the tire moves freely left and right. To check, it is enough at the top of the bar, approximately in the middle or a little closer to the tip, to take the chain by the tooth and pull it up. With the correct tension, about a third of the shank remains in the groove of the bar. If more, the chain is overtightened, less than it is undertightened. In this case, the chain itself must move freely by hand.
Lubricant. We have already mentioned the need for thorough lubrication of the chain. But even if the chain and saw are equipped with different lubrication systems, pre-soaking the chain in oil will not harm it, but, on the contrary, will reduce wear caused by friction and provide a longer service life.
Chain sharpening requires two rules. Firstly, it is necessary to control the sharpness of the corners of the cutting link, the height of the cut limiter and the compliance of these parameters with those initially set at the factory. And, secondly, to clearly control the identity of the dimensions of all cutting links of one chain.
What is the danger of non-observance of these principles? So, if the angles on all cutting elements are the same, but incorrect, the user risks getting either low productivity or increased vibration and load on the engine. At different sharpening angles, due to uneven loading of the cutting elements, vibration will increase and the likelihood of chain breakage will increase. In any case, premature failure will be provided to her.
That is why all the teeth of the chain must be sharpened evenly and at the same initially set angles, which, by the way, were established empirically. Then the chain will last as long and efficiently as possible. It's not too hard a task special devices for chain sharpening, they allow, without hesitation and without resorting to precise measuring instruments, to maintain the specified parameters.
Another important point is to keep track of the slightest cracks, scuffs and bruises that can lead to a chain break. If the chain breaks during operation, it will slip off the bar and fly off at high speed down at the operator's feet. To avoid accidents, a ledge-shaped catcher is installed on all saws. Still, the extra attention won't hurt.
It will be interesting for every user to know that any new chain sealed in a bag is just a stamping, and by sharpening it, you can increase productivity by about a quarter. In addition, for new chains, the height of the cut limiter, and in fact the thickness of the resulting chips, is automatically “adjusted” to the minimum value, i.e. for working conditions in "harsh" conditions (winter, frozen and hard wood, etc.). And if sawing is done in the summer, and its object is a freshly cut pine, there is a reason to correct the limiter (using a special template) to speed up the work.
The cutting tooth of the saw chain consists of the base of the tooth (1), the blade of the tooth (2) and the depth gauge (3). The blade of the tooth has a vertically located end blade (4) and an upper blade (5) falling at an angle backwards, located horizontally.
To give the chain optimal cutting properties, the cutting links are sharpened in a certain way.
The following sharpening angles are distinguished
\r\nRear angle of sharpening of the upper blade
\r\nThe rear corner of the upper blade is formed by the back of the tooth falling at an angle backwards. This angle is needed to cut the top blade into the wood.
End blade back angle
\r\nThe scapula tapering backwards forms a . This angle is required for lateral chip cutting.
Front angle
\r\nThe edge of the end blade forms with the sliding surface of the cutting tooth rake angle. The rake angles of the individual types of saw chains vary: for example, Rapid Duro carbide chains have a rake of 65°, while Picco Micro X rip saw chains have a rake of 80°.
Top blade rake
\r\nTop blade rake characterizes the tilt of the upper blade back. This angle is measured relative to the sliding plane of the cutting tooth and ranges from 50° to 60° depending on the type of saw chain. The top blade is the main blade and the rake angle of the top blade is the most important angle. It is difficult to measure, but very important for efficient sawing.
Sharpening angle
\r\nThe sharpening angle or, in other words, the angle of entry is obtained by measuring from the upper cutting edge at right angles to the guide bar.
The angle of sharpening of individual types of saw chains partly differs, depending on the conditions of use of the chain.
As a rule of thumb: the greater the angle of sharpening, the higher the cutting performance when sawing unfrozen softwood. Reducing the sharpening angle when sawing frozen and / or hard wood contributes to a smoother chainsaw and reduces vibration.
The rake angle, sharpening angle and the angle of the upper blade change during sharpening. These angles have a decisive influence on the cutting performance of the saw chain – be sure to observe the prescribed values.
Our company repairs and sharpens saw chains using branded equipment in compliance with all sharpening angles prescribed by manufacturers.
Even the popular Stihl is not eternal: once the teeth of the chainsaw wear out, which is easy to establish by the nature of the chips formed. With a blunt cutting edge, the chips turn out to be small, because the working edge does not cut, but crushes the wood. Naturally, the efforts expended by the operator increase sharply. It's time to sharpen the saw. How to do it right - choose the optimal technology, set what angle of sharpening the tooth should be and how to check it?
External signs of a blunted cutting edge of a chainsaw tooth
Recall that the chainsaw tooth has a complex configuration (see Fig. 1), which also depends on the direction of chain movement. It has two working edges: a lateral one, which is located perpendicular to the axis of movement of the links, and an upper one, located at a certain angle to the direction of movement of the chain. In addition, a limiter is provided on each tooth, the parameters of which determine the height of the chip being removed. Since the main cutting force falls precisely on the working angle, then all subsequent work with the tool will depend on which angle to sharpen the tooth.
Picture 1 - The functional parts of the chainsaw tooth and their appearance
Before the beginning long work with a chainsaw, it needs to be inspected and a test sawing performed, as a result of which:
- Visually establish the presence (or absence) of a conical section adjacent to the corner of the tooth, as well as a radius rounding on it - the main signs of blunting (see Fig. 2).
Figure 2
- Check the feed force at which the tool runs stably, with fast production cut. For sharp teeth, the initial moment of penetration of the tooth into the wood occurs quickly, and without significant material resistance.
- Find out the presence of chain vibrations during a steady cut - if they are noticeable, then the teeth must be sharpened.
- Examine the appearance of the just cut end (especially if the tool is used for ripping). In the presence of rough chips and dents, the chainsaw chain must be sharpened.
Sharpening angles and chainsaw tooth configuration
The cutting edge of the tooth is characterized by the following parameters:
- Width;
- Thickness;
- Sharpening angle.
In addition, each tool model has its own tooth pitch, the value of which for household and semi-professional models is related to the power of the chainsaw, and the torque that the drive develops. For example, for rip sawing, the pitch is smaller (for example, 0.325 inches). The productivity of work will decrease, but the required effort will be significantly lower. The upper step values for household chainsaws are extremely rarely taken, mainly when felling trees with a large trunk diameter. In this case, the motor power should not exceed 2500 watts.
The thickness of the cutting edge for most manufacturers of chainsaws is set to the same and equal to 1.3 mm (there are also edges with a thickness of 1.1 mm, but, firstly, they are extremely difficult to sharpen at home, and, secondly, such links are extremely little functional: they can only be used for sawing thin branches).
The height of the chain profile can be either 0.625 mm or 0.762 mm, and in the vast majority of cases, it is the low profile that is used for household gas tools. When sharpening limiters, this parameter is very important, because with a decrease in the height of excess values, the vibration of the tool during operation increases, although the quality of the cut remains satisfactory. Therefore, you should not get involved in reducing the height of the limiter when sharpening the tooth.
The chainsaw chain sharpening angle depends on the main purpose of the tool - for transverse or longitudinal sawing. Since the resistance of wood is always noticeably higher during longitudinal sawing, the tooth edge must also be very sharp. It is recommended to do it in the range of 6 ... 12 ° (for comparison - with the predominance of the transverse cut - up to 25 ... 30 °). Naturally, in the first case, sharpening should be done more often, and especially carefully, since the unacceptably small angle of inclination of the tooth contributes to its rapid chipping during chainsaw operation. This is especially important for links that are made of structural alloy steels containing silicon and manganese, for example, 40KhGS or 35KhGSA.
Chainsaw chain sharpening template
When purchasing a chainsaw, it is advisable to acquire a special template (see Fig. 3), with which you can easily set the optimal values of the tooth angles. It controls the values of the rear angles of the upper and end blades, as well as the front angle of the edge (it is indicated in the manufacturer's instructions, and can vary within 65 ... 80 °).
Especially important is the use of a template to evaluate the value of the back angle of the upper blade. This chainsaw chain sharpening angle is otherwise very difficult to determine, but meanwhile it must be maintained within rather limited limits - from 50 to 60 °.
The sharpening angle is measured by determining the angle between the upper cutting edge and a line perpendicular to the chain guide.
The angle of sharpening the chainsaw chain can be changed, depending on what work will be done. With increasing hardness of wood, its value should be less. In general, it is considered the optimal value of the angle of 10 ... 12 ° - for a longitudinal cut, and 25 ... 30 ° - for a transverse cut.
Figure 3 - Appearance template for sharpening chainsaw teeth
Sharpening can be done manually using a round file with a working diameter of 4 ... 5.5 mm, or on a machine. In the first case, it is extremely important to correctly position the tool relative to the tooth being sharpened. The upper edge of the working part of the file is located approximately one fifth above the upper edge of the tooth. The tool is placed perpendicular to the chain axis, and at an angle of 25 ... 30 ° to the upper edge of the tooth
One round file is not enough. To sharpen the limiter, you will need a flat file, and to clean the work site, a hook that removes the resulting sawdust. There are also special holders on sale, on which the lines of the direction of movement of the file relative to the axis of the chain are graduated. As can be seen from fig. 4, the holder can be installed on the tooth from above, and rest on its upper edge. Since the height of the holder is adapted to a certain chain pitch, it should be chosen in relation to chainsaws of specific models and trademarks.
The minimum required kit in order to obtain the correct chain sharpening angle manually, shown in Fig. 5.
Picture 5 - A set of sharpening tools and fixtures
First, the teeth are sharpened in one direction, and then in the other. Start with light pressing of the tool in the direction away from you, gradually increasing the load. During sharpening, a round file is periodically rotated along its axis.
Mechanized sharpening on the machine
Sharpening on the machine is much more convenient, and does not require high qualification of the performer. Such machines have an electric drive, and are equipped with special grinding wheels.
For a household workshop, it is worth purchasing compact units that do not take up much storage space and are suitable for quick and high-quality sharpening of chainsaw chains from different manufacturers. Such units must operate from a stationary 220 V power supply, have low power consumption (up to 100 W) and be easy to install on the circuit.
When choosing a machine, it is necessary to pay attention to the following technological characteristics:
- Possibility of processing teeth with different thickness of the upper edge and different chain pitch;
- The ability to adjust the angle of sharpening, within the limits indicated earlier;
- Availability of replaceable grinding discs;
- Constant cutting width.
The design of the machine is simple, and includes a drive motor, a shaft with seat for a grinding disc, a handle with controls, a device for attaching the machine to a chain. Adjustment of the pressing force on the element to be sharpened is provided by a spring clamp. Modern models of grinding machines are equipped with a differentiated clamp, which provides for self-centering of the product on the machine. For convenience of work on the body of the clamp there is a measuring scale.
Optionally, the machines can also be equipped with a miniature electric light bulb that illuminates working area, as well as a hydraulic booster that facilitates sharpening.
The safety of work is ensured by a folding safety shield.
A chainsaw of a budget or higher class is included in the home tool kit of almost every private household. Universal Properties modern models determine their application in small scale construction, fuelwood harvesting, garden maintenance and ornamental trees.
The remoteness from service centers forces many owners to master the skills of maintaining and repairing their chainsaws on their own. To the list of works increased complexity maintenance is included technical condition saw sets. To do this, you need high-quality sharpening of the chainsaw chain. How to do it yourself and other "chips" of experienced craftsmen will be analyzed in this article.
Photo: chainsaw chain mechanical sharpeningInexpensive chainsaw equipment is equipped with relatively short-lived budget-level saw sets. In the future, such tires and chains will be replaced by more prestigious and durable models.
Practices offer original way increasing the strength and wear resistance of budget devices, known as the stabilization of the internal structure of the metal.
To do this, a new tire is heated in an oil bath for one and a half to two weeks at a temperature of 55-65 ° C. The effectiveness of this technology is confirmed by positive reviews owners of household models.
The expediency of timely repair of the saw chain
Postponing chain repair indefinitely is highly undesirable. A saw chain with blunted working edges of the cutting links reduces the performance of a chainsaw by almost half, and there is also excessive fuel consumption and unjustified loss of working time.
The problem is solved by handing over to a specialized workshop, which is inevitably accompanied by additional costs. In another version, owners of chainsaws practice sharpening the chainsaw chain with their own hands. There is no set maintenance interval for the saw chain.
Negative consequences of working with a faulty headset
The need to sharpen the cutting edges of the saw chain becomes apparent when there are basic signs of inefficient tool operation. This is:
- increased vibration and difficulty entering the headset into each new cut;
- a significant decrease in the productivity of sawing operations;
- the smell of overheated wood;
- fine structure of sawdust.
Even with effective work emergency brake and broken chain catcher, sawing with a blunt chain is fraught with the risk of injury. Increased loads on the engine and kinematics of the chainsaw adversely affect the life of the tool as a whole.
Benefits of replacement kits
In order not to carry a chainsaw sharpener with them, sawmillers working at a distance from the base practice sequential operation of several sets. This system minimizes the downtime associated with saw chain sharpening.
Practice shows that in a home workshop, the quality and efficiency of sharpening is much higher. Also in the field there is no need for the constant presence of the kit.
Comparison of the advantages of mechanized and manual sharpening
mechanized sharpening special machines with electric drive produced without taking into account individual characteristics chain, in particular, the degree of wear. All cutting links are sharpened to a standard template, which inevitably reduces its working life.
In the second case, the loss of working time is compensated by extending the life of the chain, since each link is adjusted individually. Additional Benefits manual sharpening in saving material resources, the ability to perform work in the field.
Subject to certain requirements and availability necessary equipment the quality of manual sharpening of chains is not inferior to the machine level.
Features of mechanized restoration of saw chains
Despite significant shortcomings, machine sharpening is practiced in large forestry enterprises and industrial logging enterprises. In the private sector, chainsaw owners prefer to restore sawing equipment to work with their own hands.
You can read about how to sharpen a chainsaw chain with a machine tool in the attached instructions, but the real skill is developed gradually in the process. Fundamental skills are developed after self-sharpening 10 or more chains.
To restore the working properties of saw chains with carbide cutting links, standard methods and technologies are not effective. In such cases, a diamond chain sharpener comes to the rescue. The increased cost of fine-tuning the wear-resistant chain is compensated by its 4-5-fold increased overhaul life.
Features of work on manual and automatic machines
Wireless, in particular, roller chain sharpening machines are less productive, however, they provide high quality sharpening and safety of the workpiece.
- The technology provides for reliable fixation of the chain, determination of the degree and angle of sharpening by the most worn tooth.
- Automatic adjustment allows you to sharpen the chain with excellent quality with significant time savings. To obtain the proper result, it is enough to fill the chain into the slot of the machine, set the desired sharpening angle according to the table and turn on the engine.
The mass application of automated grinding equipment in private non-specialized structures is limited by its high cost.
Risks of using non-standard tools
It is better for inexperienced sawyers to refuse attempts to sharpen the chainsaw chain with a grinder immediately. For such work, you will need a rare disc nozzle in the free market, an excellent eye, hardness of hands and thorough skills.
In the absence of other options, experts recommend working on a rigidly fixed saw, with sharpening of the cutting edges without dismantling the chain from the bar.
The work of an angle grinder is characterized by an increased risk of injury, and also requires increased accuracy. It is especially difficult to maintain the same sharpening angle of the chainsaw chain for longitudinal sawing. One inaccurate movement of the angle grinder can result in a costly chain repair or deterioration in its performance.
Advantages and disadvantages of manual sharpening
To service one or two chainsaws in a private household, it is enough to have an inexpensive and simple device for sharpening a chainsaw chain in manual mode.
Technically competent and difficult. Even with certain skills, there is a high probability of marriage and premature failure of an expensive part.
The consequence may be:
- violation of the smoothness of the chain and its forced wear;
- additional loads on the engine;
- problems with the entry of the headset into the cut.
Spontaneous operation of the emergency stop mechanism is also possible.
Before starting work, it is desirable to develop a sequence of operations and gain certain skills on sharpening a decommissioned chain. A small loss of time is compensated by a smaller number of the most common mistakes.
The design of the saw set is, in principle, perfect, the manufacturer has already taken into account all the nuances, so attempts to improve something will most likely end in vain. Before the first attempt at self-sharpening, it is recommended to understand the design of the saw link.
Its simple configuration includes two cutting edges - side and beveled top. The thickness of the chip being removed is determined by the height of the limiter. Excessively low cut stops initiate additional loads on the engine, the possibility of a traumatic chain break is not ruled out.
The sequence of work and the choice of the optimal sharpening angle
Photo: chain sharpening template In the process of work, the cutting edge is first corrected, then the limiter tooth is filed according to the template. A change in its height is made every 5-6 sharpening of the cutting edges.
- The S pattern index sets the headset for sawing softwood. If you plan to work with a solid or viscous fiber structure, the template is inserted at index H.
- For productive operation of the chainsaw under standard conditions, a sharpening angle of 30 ° is recommended for hard and frozen wood, as well as for longitudinal and diagonal sawing, an angle of 10 ° is preferable.
- If the work is done without errors, the headset will work smoothly, and the ejected sawdust will have a pronounced rectangular shape.
Savings, as a rule, should be economical, but it is not advisable to spend time sharpening a stretched chain. Its performance will be restored partially and for a short time. Moreover, a worn part loses its smooth running, accelerates the wear of the drive sprocket crown and tensioner.
Manual sharpening technology
The choice of round file diameter is determined by the pitch of the saw chain. 1.3 and 1.6 mm correspond to files with a diameter of 4 and 5.2 mm. A flat file will be required to reduce the height of the stops of the cutting links.
- The chain holder can be any type of fixture that is included in the list of standard sharpening kit. For the stability of the sharpening angle, it is necessary to use a simple template, template or a special gauge.
- The maximum excess of the file over the back of the tooth is not more than 1/5 of its diameter.
- To avoid one-sided wear, it is recommended to rotate the file periodically by 90 degrees, hold it 90 degrees in relation to the vertical plane and 15-30 degrees in the horizontal plane.
- For sharpening each link, it is desirable to use the same number of working passes.
Many home craftsmen prefer to work with the chain in a vise. There are no objections from the experts, provided that the chain is not deformed.
Finally
If the sharpening technology prescribes sharpening the removed chain, it is not recommended to apply excessive force to the threaded fasteners when reinstalling. It is best to use a dial-calibrated electric screwdriver to tighten the tire fixing screws.
Before installing a new kit, check the condition of the drive crown. Part with significant wear during installation new tire and the chain is subject mandatory replacement.
Replacing a standard headset with a more productive one is justified only with a significant margin of power and torque. Otherwise, when operating the engine with constant overload, with the full development of its resource, problems may arise.
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