What is the best roof for the house. How to cover the roof of the house: slate, ondulin, metal or soft roof

The roof is an integral part of the supporting structure of any home and has important protective functions. It protects the building from the effects of factors environment and heat loss, is responsible for maintaining a comfortable indoor climate. That is why its arrangement should be taken seriously, observing building codes and regulations.

Starting, the owner must, at the design stage, decide on the type of future roof. Strength, reliability, practicality and aesthetics of the future structure depend on this. Which roof to choose for your home? How to choose the right roof? And most importantly, what should be guided in the selection process? We will try to find answers to these questions in this article.

What is the best roof for the house: the main selection criteria

When deciding which roof is best suited for the building structure and which roof covering to choose, it is necessary to proceed from:
- placement of the house relative to sea level;
- climatic conditions and environmental pollution of the area;
- planned functional purpose under-roof space;
- features of the architecture of the building;
- its design.

All of the above criteria play an important role in the selection process and best roof for the home suits each of them.

So, if a building is being erected at an altitude of less than 400 meters above sea level, then any structural type of roof can be used for it, if at an altitude of 400 to 600 meters, it is necessary to arrange only a two-layer, non-planar top floor. In an area remote from the city, where the air is little dusty and polluted by emissions, all types of roofing materials, both thin and thick, can be used. In ecologically polluted areas, the best roof for a house is thick, solid, with minimal porosity and permeability. In hot climates, cover the roof with non-flammable, fire-resistant materials. In regions with a temperate climate, a roof should be used that better withstands sudden changes in temperature. If an attic is planned under the roof, then the roof should also have an attic structure; if an attic is planned to be organized, then the house covering should also be attic.

It is important that the roof matches the architectural and stylistic concept of the building. When deciding which roof color to choose and how to choose the shape of the roof, you must remember that both the color and the shape should be in harmony with the facade, emphasizing the visual appeal of the entire structure. The first impression of the house depends on this.

What is the best roof to make? Design options

To decide which roof is best for your home or summer cottage, you need to know what constructive roof options exist today. Top cover houses can be horizontal (flat) or inclined, pitched. The horizontal structure has no slope. Its absolutely flat surface retains atmospheric precipitation and does not remove it from the roof. This leads to leaks, damage and rapid destruction of the roof. The pitched structure is arranged at a slope, its parts are connected at an angle. Due to this, precipitation does not accumulate on the surface of the pitched roof, the roof is not damaged and serves as the top floor of the house for many years.

Depending on the number of sloping elements, roofs are divided into one-, two-, four-pitched, multi-gable and hip. Depending on the shape of the slopes on: tent and domed with rounded inclined surfaces; tapered with elongated slopes and roofs of the original design connected to a spire. How to choose a roof for a house from the listed varieties? Based on their strengths and weaknesses. These are listed in the briefs below.

Shed roofs. They are arranged from one inclined surface, which rests on two load-bearing walls of different heights and is located over the entire area of ​​the house. They are simple and inexpensive to install, wear out more slowly due to the absence of stressed elements, but they resist wind worse, exclude the possibility of good thermal insulation, an attic or an attic.

Gable roofs. They are mounted from two equal slopes, which are installed on opposite sides of the house, rest on the load-bearing walls and are connected to each other in the ridge. They are practical, effective in terms of water drainage, do not require the use of complex construction technologies for the device, and have an attractive appearance. You can always place a heating system under them, organize an attic or an attic. However, the dimensions of gable roofs depend on the parameters of the house, and the larger they are, the larger the size of the roof and the more material is needed for its construction.

Gable roofs. They are arranged from two triangular and two trapezoidal slopes. They are distinguished by increased strength, reliability, and resistance to external loads. Allows maximum use of the usable under-roof space. But the weight of the four-slope structures is large, they can only be installed on thick and strong walls. When installing such roofs, additional engineering calculations and material costs.

Hip roofs. They are considered a kind of four-slope. They are arranged from a gable structure, which does not completely cover the length of the house, and two inclined hips, which cover the remaining space.

Multi-gable roofs. They include a different number of pitched elements, have a complex design and are most suitable for multi-level buildings. They look original and presentable. Thanks to the many slopes, they significantly increase the living area. However, their construction is costly and laborious. With an abundance of precipitation, snow and rain can linger on their surface, which collect in the corners between the slopes. And this complicates the process of water drainage and requires the creation of a complex system for its removal.

Dome, hipped roof, conical and other unusual in shape roofs look beautiful, but have a complex rafter system. Therefore, their installation is the most expensive.

How to choose the angle of inclination of the roof and its height

The slope and height of the roof are determined by the architectural and stylistic features of the house. If it is built in classic style, then it should have a large-sized coating with an angle of inclination of 40-45º. The height of the roof should be 1/3 of the height of the entire structure. When deciding how to choose a roof angle for a house built in the modern style, it should be remembered that modern style is characterized by smoothed lines. Therefore, the angle of inclination should be less than 40º, and the height should be about 1/4 of the height of the entire building. If the house is being built in the Gothic style, then a large angle of about 60º should be chosen for its pointed roof.

Architectural fashion is changeable, and today you can find buildings of intricate shape, original design and decoration. But, whatever the stylistic performance of the dwelling, in the question of how to choose the height of the roof, one should be guided by several general principles... The principles of proportionality, practicality and aesthetics. The roof must not:
- "pushing" on the windows;
- be "planted" too high above them;
- to give the impression of "pressing" on the whole house.
Excessively high home coverage will draw all the attention to itself.

When deciding which roof angle to choose, one should take into account the peculiarities of the climate of the region. If the climate is windy, the slope should not exceed 45º, so that the load on the roof is not too great, and should not be less than 10º, so that in case of strong gusts of wind, the roof will not tear off the roof. If the climate is characterized by heavy snowfalls in winter period, then the slope angle should be 40-45º. If it is less, the snow load on the roof will exceed the permissible value. In regions with little rainfall, the slope may be 30º.

Roofing for the roof: how to choose, what is it like?

The main role in the reliability of the roof is played by the roof, or rather the material from which it is made. The strength, durability and stability of the roof depend on the quality characteristics of this material.

The modern roofing materials market offers consumers the widest range of products. Before choosing a roof for your home, you need to familiarize yourself with it.

All roofing materials are usually classified according to composition, release form and rigidity. Depending on what they are made of, they are divided into:
- mineral - made on the basis of natural slate, ardrogres and minerals (slate tiles);
- ceramic - produced on the basis of clay ();
- bituminous - are made from oil refined products with the addition of organic matter(, bituminous tiles, bituminous slate);
- metal - produced from zinc, copper and aluminum alloys (, galvanized profiled sheets);
- cement - made on the basis of sand, asbestos, Portland cement (cement-sand tiles, slate);
- polymer - made on the basis of synthetic rubber and PVC (polycarbonate, polypropylene, membranes).

Depending on the form of release, roofing materials are divided into:
- piece (tiles);
- sheet (profiled sheets, slate,);
- rolled (rolled membranes, polypropylene).

Depending on the stiffness, materials are divided into:
- soft - roll, polymer;
- hard - piece and sheet made of cement, metal, ceramics, oil shale.

Which roof is better to choose? And what material is better for covering the roof? The answer to these questions cannot be unambiguous, because there is no universal concept of "the best material for a roof". For each specific building, its own roof is selected.

How to choose a roofing material? Experts recommend that the analysis be based on the architecture of the roof, on the conditions of its future operation and the desired durability; proceed from the possible loads that will be exerted on the roof by wind and precipitation, as well as from our own material capabilities. If you take into account all of the above factors, then you can easily determine best coverage for the roof.

What is the best roof? Overview of the most common materials

To understand which roofing material is better, and to decide what is better to make a roof, you need to know the features, advantages and disadvantages of roofing materials. Most often, in private construction, tiles, slate and bituminous sheets are used. Below we provide a brief overview of them.

Roof tiles. It is a tile with a size of 30x30 cm. It can be ceramic, metal, bitumen and cement-sand. The slope at which it can be used is 20-60º. The service life is about 20-30 years. It is characterized by a low degree of flammability, porous and "breathable" structure, high resistance to corrosion, low temperatures. When choosing which material is best to cover the roof, it should be borne in mind that tiles are a heavy, fragile material. When constructing multi-gable roofs, it entails technological difficulties.

Slate. It is a rectangular embossed sheets of asbestos and Portland cement measuring 1.2x0.7m. The roof slope, at which it can be applied, is from 12 to 60º. Service life is about 30-40 years. Differs in durability, resistance to stress and low cost. When deciding which material for the roof is better, you need to remember that slate is able to accumulate moisture, and therefore is exposed to many biogenic factors.

Bituminous sheets (euro slate) These are rectangular corrugated material 2x1m in size. Minimum slope, at which it can be used - 5º. The maximum slope is not standardized and can be anything. The service life is about 15-20 years. The sheets are varied colors, attractive appearance, light weight and easy to install. However, when deciding what better to cover the roof, it is necessary to take into account that the euro-slate is characterized by low frost resistance and belongs to combustible flammable materials.

The correct roof of the house implies not only a beautiful appearance, but also a reliable structure.

Roofing of private houses is a difficult and very demanding job. The easiest option is to order turnkey construction from a specialized company and expect a happy moment when you can move into a brand new house or cottage. But this method is good if there are enough funds to pay for the expensive services of construction workers. Better to build a house yourself, it will cost about half the price. This will require a quality project.. A correctly designed project with calculations requires knowledge and design experience. Therefore, it is better to use either a ready-made project, or order it from a specialized organization. Below we will focus on the technology of roof construction. Installation and directly depends on its type and design. Therefore, first we will tell you what kind of roofs there are.

The specifics and features of the roof largely depend on its type. There are many standard projects private houses, with original and sometimes very spectacular roofs. Consider several common varieties that differ in their design:

1. Shed. The simplest version looks like a right-angled triangle in cross-section.
2. Gable. Sometimes called a gable, with two inclined planes. The attic room is perfectly built in here.
3. Broken line. A variation of the previous type, which has slopes with a break (changed angle). A large number of modern houses can be seen with a sloping roof.
4. Hip (half-hip). A four-slope design that allows you to raise the ceiling and conveniently place the attic under it.
5. Conical or domed. Generally better suited for buildings with a polygonal or circular shape.
6. Multi-pliers. A non-standard design, as well as an option with a sloping roof, requires a painstaking calculation. Only an experienced architect is able to make a good project, and the cost of the work is very high.

Various types of roofs for country houses and cottages

The rafter system forms the roof frame, which is the skeleton that ensures the reliability and strength of the entire structure of the house. The frame determines the type and shape of the roof of the building, its task is not only to maintain the roof covering, but also to evenly distribute the load on the walls of the house. The correct choice of the rafter system, its competent construction will ensure the reliability of the structure, its durability and strength.

The rafter system is constructed, as a rule, of coniferous wood, well dried to a moisture content of 18-23%. A good and durable roof can only be made from quality material.

When calculating loads, it should be borne in mind that two types of forces act on the frame: constant and variable:

• Constants include the weight of the entire frame structure together with the drainage system, insulation and roofing.
• Variables include the weight of people inside, snow cover and wind pressure.

Important!

The calculation of temporary loads is carried out based on building codes for the climatic regions of Russia.

We will consider the components and elements of the frame using the example of the most common design with 4 slopes:

1. Mauerlat, a timber laid along the top of the walls of the house. Serves as a support for rafters and evenly distributes the load on the building structure.
2. The rafter has a different name for the rafter leg. An angled beam or board, with the lower part supported by the Mauerlat and the upper part by the girders. Defines the slope of the ramps, serves as a reference element to support the covering.
3. Run. A horizontal beam to support the upper ends of the rafters. It can serve as a ridge bar. Fastened to vertical uprights. It is better to make it from a bar or thick board.
4. Racks are vertical. They are a support for purlins, located on load-bearing walls or on planks.
5. Beds. Beams laid horizontally on the walls of the house, playing the role of floor beams. Serve as a support for the racks, carry the vertical load of the weight of the roof.
6. Puffs. Boards securing the rafters of opposite slopes, create rigidity of the structure, fix the rafters.
7. Braces. Boards that perform a supporting function and protect the rafters from bending.
8. Wind beams. Boards fastening the rafters on one slope, fixed diagonally from the ridge to the Mauerlat. They perform the task of strengthening the frame and protecting it from wind loads.
9. Filly. A board fixed to the Mauerlat, which forms an overhang.
10. Sprengel. A bar fixed at the corners of the house between the connecting Mauerlats of adjacent walls.

Gable roof rafter system

The listed parts of the frame take place in almost all types of rafter systems, of which there are several types.

The rafter system is the basis of any roof, its skeleton. Its main purpose is to give the roof structure strength and reliability. In addition, it is designed to evenly distribute the load on the walls of the house. There are several types of rafter systems that allow you to make a reliable roof:

1. Hanging or hanging rafter system. With this design, there are no intermediate posts to support the rafters, and the connection is made with wooden or metal ties. In the upper part, the rafters abut against each other, and the loads are transferred due to puffs. In this system, various forces act on the rafters: compression, bending and a vertical component that bends the rafter down.
2. Nasal system. As a rule, it is used in gable roofs. It is used with the use of intermediate supports or in the construction of houses with a central load-bearing wall. The rafters are installed with one end supported on the walls and the other on intermediate posts. SNiP regulates the device of a similar design for gable roofs only in cases where the distance between the bearing walls is not more than 6.5 meters. The overhead system is lighter and easier to install.
3. Sloped roof rafter system. Complex construction requiring good project and careful calculations. For a broken structure, it is possible to raise the roof and make the attic higher, and minimize the unused area.

Truss options

A combination of the listed roofing systems is often used. It is important that the rafter scheme is calculated at the stage of building design. According to the results of calculations carried out according to a complex method, it is necessary to obtain data on the loads per 1 sq. M of the rafter system. SNiPom regulates the normative value of 50 kg per sq. M. Also, based on the results of the calculations, you can choose one or another type of rafter system.

Trusses in truss systems

It is best to make a truss system from ready-made trusses, assembled at the factory. Calculated in accordance with all standards, made of high-quality and well-dried wood, the trusses greatly facilitate and speed up the construction process.

The whole structure, built using trusses, is much lighter and stronger. Trusses reduce wall loads by transferring only vertical forces. The lower chord of the trusses is designed so that it can serve as a ceiling beam for the attic. Ease of use of trusses lies in the ability to cover a large span without additional support.

A roof truss made of wood is the most common option.

Advice!

If the structure of your house is more than six meters or the roof is very flat according to the project (the slope of the slopes is less than 30˚), think about whether it is better to use ready-made wooden trusses.

The disadvantages of such a structure are that it costs a little more than building on its own, and there are also some difficulties in order to raise it to the desired height.

Roof design

As mentioned above, a well-designed project should be the key to a reliable and durable roof structure. As a rule, it consists of several sections and drawings. It contains calculations and all information about the roof structure:

• first of all, the project determines the main parameters - the shape of the roof, its dimensions, the slope of the slopes, the presence of a pediment;
• the second, and no less important point, is a list of all materials, for each node, with an indication of their quantity;
• a separate section should be devoted to the calculation of load-bearing structures with an indication of the cross-section of the rafter beams, the dimensions of the floor elements and other nodes;
• drawings in various projections with detailing of the main units;
• a section with calculations of the thermal properties of the roof structure and instructions on insulation and waterproofing, with a list of recommended materials;
• recommendations for roofing material based on the calculation of the maximum structural loads.

Roof design in accordance with SNiP

An important section of the project should be the section devoted to insulation, waterproofing and ventilation.

Important!

A properly equipped under-roof space will avoid the accumulation of condensed moisture and leaks.

Competent insulation will create comfortable conditions for staying inside the building. All taken together will increase the strength, durability and reliability of the roof and the entire building.

Roof project

Heat and waterproofing

An important detail for the roof insulation device is the fact that not only external weather factors act on the roof, but also internal ones:

• heat from the living quarters;
• evaporation;
• condensation from the temperature difference in the upper floor and outside.

Therefore, the requirements for roof insulation contain additional conditions in comparison with wall insulation. This is the laying of vapor barrier materials, a heat-protective layer and waterproofing. In addition, it is necessary to equip effective ventilation of the under-roof space, otherwise constant dampness in the room threatens.

Roof waterproofing is one of the mandatory stages of its arrangement

To reliably insulate the upper floor, mineral or eco-wool is usually used. In combination with a waterproofing and vapor barrier film, good protection against external and internal influences is obtained. And the air gap between the different insulators will ensure the ventilation of the gables and the roof.

Step-by-step instructions for ensuring moisture resistance and functionality of the roof

To keep the roof from blowing

An important nuance that must be taken into account during installation and reconstruction of the roof is its system of attachment to the house. A hurricane that happens once a century should not lift and carry our roof. For this, the frame is fastened to the walls. When choosing a mounting method, it should be provided that the rafter system does not expand the walls.

If the fastening is carried out in a stone house, then it is recommended to fasten the rafters with crutches driven from the inside of the wall. Fixation is made with a wire tie in several turns. In some cases, you can fasten the rafters to the floor joists. Such a fastening provides for a slight backlash in the joints of the rafters with the Mauerlat, which avoids the expansion of the walls.

In addition, do not forget to install wind boards (see above) during installation and repair. Such a bundle protects against wind load from the inside. The wind boards prevent vibrations in the structure, which eventually lead to destruction.

A roof with steep slopes can be overturned by strong gusts of wind;

The lathing is designed to hold the roof covering. It is done at the last stage of the construction of the frame ( rafter system). If the floor beams are installed in the openings of the walls, then fillets should be fixed on the first rafters from the bottom, which will help to make the overhang of the roof. In cases where the ceiling is laid along the Mauerlat, there is no need for fillets, since the beams in such a structure protrude beyond the perimeter of the walls, thereby creating an overhang of the roof.

The type of battens is selected in accordance with the planned roofing material. The lathing is made either with small gaps, or solid, with the boards laid close to each other.

An important element roofing for the integrity and durability of the future roof is the crate - the foundation and the guarantee of your peace of mind with its correct and reliable fastening

Lay a layer of waterproofing on top of the lathing. Now you can sew up the gables and start installing the topcoat.

When building your own home, the question is always raised, what kind of roof to choose for the house. It is impossible to answer it unequivocally, since now there is a huge assortment of building materials used in a private house. Each of them has both advantages and disadvantages.

When choosing a roof covering, one should take into account the climatic characteristics of the region, the range of temperature regimes, the amount of seasonal precipitation and the quality of materials for the roof.

Often people, choosing one or another of their homes, rely on reasons such as protecting the premises from leaks, lightness roofing material, its design and even the price. A well-built and finished home is a status item in some circles. Based on their desires, capabilities and range of roofing in the construction market, each person can decide for himself which roof to choose for a house on his site.

What to look for when choosing a coating

When choosing a roofing material, you need to pay attention to the type of building that needs to be covered with this or that material.

1. First, you need to take into account the type of building that needs to be covered with this or that material. For a utility room, a private summer house on summer cottage or a cottage for permanent residence are required absolutely different characteristics cover.
2. Secondly, the material chosen must match exactly the configuration of the building's roof. If one type of covering can be used on a flat roof, then a sloping slope or a complex roof requires the use of roofing elements with other advantages and benefits.
3. Thirdly, when choosing a particular type of coating, it is necessary to take into account the minimum and maximum terms of its use. The weight of the roofing structure also plays an important role. Heavier coverings require more frequent lathing. In addition, some buildings may simply not be able to support the heavy weight of the roof. Therefore, when choosing one or another material for roofing, you need to evaluate the building itself so that the roof is proportional to the building both in size and in weight.
4. Fourthly, the price of the roofing system also plays a significant role - in some cases it is possible to use a cheaper material. For example, a utility room does not require expensive, beautiful coverage. However, it would be wrong to consider the price of the roofing structure itself. - this is a whole range of various activities, including the purchase of ancillary products, installation of roofing structures, roof waterproofing (if required).
5. Fifth, the visual perception of the roof can also be a criterion. If you need to emphasize your status or just build an "expensive" house, while not experiencing difficulties in money, it is preferable to use natural roofing products. The roof should be in harmony with the overall design of the house.
6. Sixth, do not forget about the most important thing - the complexity of the installation of one or another roofing element. Installation of such an expensive coating, such as natural tiles, will not cost less than the material itself. At the same time, more economical options can be installed independently with a minimum of cost.

Features of coatings

Recently, new options for roofing a house have been overestimated too. Do not forget that everyone construction material has both advantages and disadvantages. It is simply impossible to find the perfect covering for your home.

1. Bituminous shingles.
2. Metal tiles.
3. Cement-sand tiles.
4. Ceramic tiles.
5. Decking.

For the right choice building coating should be contacted by a specialist. They will tell you what exactly is best to use in each specific case. It would be wise to get not one, but several consultations from different sources to add a whole picture for yourself. Experts will help you assess which specifications important when covering a building, at what price the purchase of the material and work on its installation will cost. In addition, it will help to present the full scope of work associated with the use of one or another covering for the roof of the roof of a house.

Currently existing roofing products can be roughly divided into four groups:

1. Manufactured using metal sheets. These include metal tiles, profiled decking, standing seam roofing, composite metal tiles, as well as roofing systems made of copper and aluminum.
2. Roof structures, in the manufacture of which bitumen is used. This group includes rolled roofing material - roofing felt, roofing felt and others.
3. Roofing elements made of stone, composite, ceramics. This group is widely represented by slate stone, ceramic and cement-sand tiles, asbestos-cement slate.
4. Roof structures made of PVC-based polymers, the so-called polymer membranes.

Each of the presented building elements for roofing has its own advantages. A large selection of roofing is good because it allows you to choose the right option for price and quality, based on the capabilities and desires of the buyer.

Some features of roofing material

Roofing material structure: 1. External layer - coarse-grained dressing (sand, mica). 2. Covering layer (refractory bitumen + mineral plasticizers). 3. Base (roofing board impregnated with low-melting bitumen). 4. Covering layer. 5. Bottom layer (dusting with talc, chalk, etc.).

Roofing material is the most economical option for covering the roof of a house. It is the lightest roofing material. It is also easy to stack as all that is needed is to carefully unwind the roll and cut it correctly. Due to its lightness, roofing material can be put even on old unreliable rafters and they will calmly withstand its weight.

However, all these advantages have one huge drawback: this roofing material has a short service life and is unlikely to protect private house from severe bad weather. In addition, it does not have a high fire resistance. It is usually chosen to cover small utility rooms.

Polymer coating

Polymer roofing coatings are a new word in the field of roofing materials production. In the manufacture of this kind of roof coverings, special raw materials from PVC-based polymer elements are used. By adding various components, the developers have achieved the following results:

• strengthened the protective properties of polymer coatings and made them practically waterproof;
• received the latest lightweight roofing material, which is characterized by increased resistance to temperature changes.

Due to the use of polyvinyl chloride in its manufacture, the polymer coating has become resistant to the action of ice or standing water. In addition, the membrane material prevents condensation from accumulating directly under the roof covering.

Polymer membranes have a number of undeniable advantages:

• the lightness of the roofing material allows it to be laid directly by the owner of the house;
• high fire safety - the products used in the manufacture of this coating have increased fire resistance, which is confirmed by special certificates;
• ecological cleanliness. Polymer membranes do not contain any harmful substances and when precipitation falls, they do not react in any way, thus preventing the release of unhelpful substances;
• the main advantage is their service life. The minimum time of use of polyvinyl chloride polymer membranes is 40-50 years;
• no need to use special waterproofing when installing such a roof covering;
• quick installation due to the lightness of the design and the simple method of connection - using hot air.

Decking and metal tiles

Roofing coverings such as metal tiles and corrugated board are mainly used for sloping roofs. The building material itself is of high quality and relatively light, but for its proper installation, specialists are required, since it must be mounted on a pre-installed crate.

Metal tiles and corrugated board have a number of advantages:

• they are durable in use - more than 50 years;
• relatively light;
• environmentally friendly;
• have a wide range of colors;
• look visually appealing.

However, they also have serious disadvantages:

• the need to renew the paint layer every 7-10 years;
• metal coatings are the noisiest options for roofing material;
• they do not protect the building from condensation under the roof.

Natural shingles, of course, are much more expensive than all the above-described roofing materials for the roof of a private house. But it also lasts longer - the average service life of a properly installed coating made of ceramic, slate or seam tiles reaches almost 100 years, or even more. The undoubted advantages of such elements for the roof:

• sound insulation and absorption of almost any noise;
• no corrosion on natural materials used for these coatings;
• increased resistance to various weather conditions, including severe frosts;
• external attractiveness that distinguishes houses with such a roofing from a number of other houses;
• environmental friendliness of the material used for the manufacture of natural tiles.

However, there are also disadvantages:

• this roofing option has a high price;
• heavy weight natural coating... This means that such an element must be used only on a stable basis for the roof of a house and use a more frequent lathing when installing the coating;
• high fragility of natural tiles - if used improperly, they can be broken.

So, when choosing one or another roofing material, many factors must be taken into account. However, it is often impossible to assess the complexity of the work and the cost of it ourselves. To do this, it is worth getting the advice of specialists with experience in the installation of roofs of different levels.

Roof installation is a complex multi-stage process. In order to independently assemble and install the rafter system, it is necessary to carefully study the methods of connecting the elements, calculate the length of the rafters and the slope angle, and select the appropriate materials. If you do not have the necessary experience, you should not take on complex structures. The best option for a small residential building is a do-it-yourself gable roof.

A standard roof of this type consists of the following elements:

Mauerlat is a timber laid on top of the walls along the perimeter of the building. It is secured with threaded steel rods or anchor bolts embedded in the wall. The beam should be made of softwood and have a square section of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm. The Mauerlat takes the load from the rafters and transfers it to the outer walls.

Rafter legs- these are long boards with a section of 50x150 mm or 100x150 mm. They are attached to each other at an angle and give the roof a triangular shape. The structure of their two rafter legs is called a truss. The number of trusses depends on the length of the house and the type of roofing. The minimum distance between them is 60 cm, the maximum - 120 cm. When calculating the pitch of the rafter legs, one should take into account not only the weight of the coating, but also the wind load, as well as the amount of snow in winter.

Located in highest point roof and most often is a longitudinal beam connecting both slopes. From below, the timber is supported by vertical posts, and the ends of the rafters are attached to the sides. Sometimes the ridge consists of two boards, which are nailed to the top of the rafters on both sides and connected at a certain angle.

Racks - vertical beams with a section of 100x100 mm, located inside each truss and serving to transfer the load from the ridge run to the load-bearing walls inside the house.

The braces are made from scraps of timber and set at an angle between the uprights and the rafters. The braces strengthen the lateral edges of the truss, increasing the load-bearing capacity of the structure.

Tightening - the beam connecting the lower parts of the rafters to the base of the truss triangle. Together with struts, such a beam serves to strengthen the truss, increases its resistance to loads.

A bed is called a long beam with a section of 100x100 mm, laid along the central load-bearing wall, on which the vertical posts rest. Lezhen is used when installing layered rafters, when the run between the outer walls is more than 10 m.

The lathing is a board or timber stuffed onto the rafters. The lathing is solid and with gaps, depending on the type of roof. It is always fastened perpendicular to the direction of the rafters, most often horizontally.

If there is no more than 10 m between the outer walls and there is no load-bearing wall in the middle, arrange hanging rafter system. With such a system, the upper ends of the adjacent rafters are cut at an angle and connected together with nails, excluding the installation of racks and a ridge bar. The lower ends of the rafter legs rest on the outer walls. Due to the absence of racks, the attic space can be used to equip the attic. Very often, the function of puffs is performed by floor beams. To strengthen the structure, it is recommended to install the top tie at a distance of 50 cm from the ridge.

In the presence of a central retaining wall, arrangement is more justified layered rafter system... A bed is laid on the wall, support posts are attached to it, and a ridge bar is nailed to the posts. This installation method is quite economical and easier to perform. If the ceilings in the interior are designed at different levels, the racks are replaced brick wall dividing the attic into two halves.

The process of installing the roof includes several stages: fastening the Mauerlat to the walls, assembling the trusses, installing the rafters on the floors, installing the ridge, fastening the lathing. Everything wooden elements before starting the assembly, they are carefully treated with any antiseptic composition and dried in air.

For work you will need:

• timber 100x10 mm and 150x150 mm;
• boards 50x150 mm;
• boards 30 mm thick for lathing;
• roofing material;
• metal studs;
• jigsaw and hacksaw;
• hammer;
• nails and screws;
• square and building level.

V wooden houses the functions of the Mauerlat are performed by the logs of the last row, which greatly simplifies the workflow. To install the rafters, it is enough to cut on inside log grooves of the appropriate size.

V brick houses or in block buildings, the installation of the Mauerlat is as follows:

The bars of the Mauerlat should form a regular rectangle and be in the same horizontal plane. This will facilitate further installation of the roof and provide the structure with the necessary stability. At the end, markings are made on the beams for the rafters and grooves are cut along the thickness of the beam.

When choosing a hanging truss system, it is necessary to assemble the trusses on the ground and then install them above the ceilings. First you need to draw up a drawing and calculate the length of the rafter legs and the angle of their connection. Typically, the angle of inclination of the roof is 35-40 degrees, but in open, heavily blown areas, it is reduced to 15-20 degrees. To find out at what angle to connect the rafters, multiply the angle of the roof by 2.

Knowing the length of the run between the outer walls and the angle of the rafter connection, you can calculate the length of the rafter legs. Most often, it is 4-6 m, taking into account the eaves overhang with a width of 50-60 cm.

The upper ends of the rafters can be fastened in several ways: overlap, end-to-end and "in the paw", that is, with cut grooves. For fixing, metal pads or bolts are used. Next, the lower and upper puffs are mounted, and then the finished trusses are lifted up and installed above the ceilings.

The end trusses are attached first: using a plumb line, the rafters are set vertically, adjust the length of the overhang and attach to the Mauerlat with bolts or steel plates. So that during the installation process the farm does not move, it is strengthened with temporary jibs from a bar. After installing the extreme rafters, the rest are exposed, observing the same distance between them. When all the trusses are fixed, they take a board with a section of 50x150 mm, the length of which is 20-30 cm longer than the length of the cornice, and nailed it along the upper edge of the ramp. Do the same on the other side of the roof.

The first option: on the rafter leg, at the point of contact with the Mauerlat, a rectangular groove is cut out to 1/3 of the beam width. Having stepped back from the top of the box 15 cm, a steel crutch is driven into the wall. The rafter is set in level, the grooves are aligned, then a wire clamp is placed on top and the beam is pulled close to the wall. The ends of the wire are securely fastened to the crutch. The lower edges of the rafters are carefully cut with a circular saw, leaving an overhang of 50 cm.

Second option: top rows the walls are laid out with a stepped cornice made of bricks, and the Mauerlat is placed flush with the inner surface of the wall and a groove is cut out in it for the rafter. The edge of the rafter leg is cut at the level of the upper corner of the eaves. This method is simpler than the others, but the overhang is too narrow.

The third option: the beams of the ceiling slabs are extended beyond the edge of the outer wall by 40-50 cm, and the roof trusses are installed on the beams. The ends of the rafter legs are cut at an angle and abut against the beams, fixing with metal plates and bolts. This method allows you to slightly increase the width of the attic space.

Layer rafters device

1 shows the cut of the rafter struts in the bed, laid along the intermediate supports, and in Fig. 2 - support of the rafter leg on the Mauerlat

The procedure for installing a layered rafter system:

When the main elements are fixed, the surface of the rafters is treated with fire retardants. Now you can start making the lathing.

A 50x50 mm beam is suitable for the lathing, as well as boards 3-4 cm thick and 12 cm wide. Waterproofing material is usually placed under the lathing to protect the rafter system from getting wet. The waterproofing film is laid horizontal stripes from the eaves to the ridge of the roof. The material spreads with an overlap of 10-15 cm, after which the joints are fastened with tape. The bottom edges of the foil should completely cover the ends of the rafters.

It is necessary to leave a ventilation gap between the boards and the film, therefore, first, they are stuffed onto the film wooden slats 3-4 cm thick, placing them along the rafters.

The next stage is the sheathing of the rafter system with boards; they are stuffed perpendicular to the slats, starting from the eaves of the roof. The step of the lathing is influenced not only by the type of roofing, but also by the angle of inclination of the slopes: the larger the angle, the greater the distance between the boards.

After completing the installation of the battens, they proceed to sheathing the gables and overhangs. You can close the gables with boards, plastic panels, clapboard, waterproof plywood or corrugated board - it all depends on financial capabilities and personal preferences. The cladding is attached to the side of the rafters; nails or screws are used as fasteners. Overhangs are also hemmed various materials- from wood to siding.

Video - Do-it-yourself gable roof

10.05.2016 0 comments

In order to save money, many owners of suburban land plots prefer to start building a house on their own. If you have certain skills, this allows you to decently reduce the cost of wages of hired workers. The final stage self-construction building is building a roof with your own hands. This structure is an integral and one of the most important parts of the building, which protects it from atmospheric influences. It should be noted that the roof with your own hands is not done alone; in any case, 2-3 assistants will be needed.

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Roof element definitions

First you need to familiarize yourself with some terms and definitions:

• Roof - the structure of the building covering the upper floor. It provides thermal insulation and waterproofing functions.
• Roof - a roof covering that provides protection from atmospheric precipitation.
• Mauerlat is an element of the roofing system that transfers the load from the roof structures to the load-bearing walls. Usually it is a bar or log, laid on the walls along the perimeter of the building, but in the case of installation metal frame can be made of rolled metal - channel or I-beam.
• A rafter is an inclined supporting element of the roof, most often in the form of a bar. The set of rafters forms a rafter system that supports the roof deck and transfers the load to the Mauerlat.

Roof erection process

The following step-by-step instructions for building a roof with your own hands will help you avoid mistakes and build the roof correctly. Work production technology includes several stages.

Drawing up a drawing of the roof structure

Before starting work, it is necessary to draw up detailed drawing the future design of the pitched roof, this will allow you to determine the required amount of building materials and prepare the necessary tool. Roofs can be single-pitched, with a slope only in one direction, gable and more complex structures (four-pitched, hipped and spire-shaped). It is best to take as a basis typical drawings of roof structures, developed by professionals and available in the public domain.

Mauerlat installation

Usually, the Mauerlat is made from a bar with a cross section of 150 × 100 (150) mm. It is laid along the inner edge of the wall on a waterproofing material, which can be a double layer of roofing material or polyethylene. Mauerlat is protected from outdoor weathering if the stone house is nearby brickwork, if wooden - with the same layer of waterproofing or facing materials... The bars of the Mauerlat along the perimeter are fastened together into a single structure, cutting out segments with a length of 100-150 mm by half the thickness of the bar. and connecting them with bolts or nails. The Mauerlat is attached to the wooden walls with metal brackets, to the walls made of bricks, foam and gas silicate blocks - with the help of threaded rods with a diameter of about 12-16 mm, embedded in a reinforced concrete belt arranged along the top of the wall. Studs are placed around the perimeter at a distance of 1500-2000 mm. Holes are drilled in the structure bar for them.

This is the next step in building a roof with your own hands. The layout of the rafters is determined based on the selected structural features of the roof. The distance between structural elements and the size of the material section depends on the length of the roof slope. So, with a rafter length of up to 4 meters, the rafter pitch varies from 1000 mm. (with a bar section of 80 × 160 mm.) up to 1800 mm. (with a bar section of 90 × 180 mm.), with a roof slope length of up to 6 meters for a rafter pitch of 1000 (1400) mm. a bar with a section of 80 × 200 (100 × 200) mm is required. However, these values ​​are not mandatory, if the option of laying roll or slab thermal insulation is subsequently considered, then it would be most expedient to adjust the pitch of the rafters to the size of the insulation. Also, the type and, accordingly, the weight of the selected roof affects the step and size of the rafter section. For example, heavy ceramic tiles or slate require more bearing capacity roof structures, rather than a roof made of ondulin or galvanized steel.

An important point is the choice of the angle of inclination of the roof. The greater the angle to the horizontal, the less snow will linger on the roof, which makes it possible to reduce the cross-section of the timber for the manufacture of rafters. The optimal angle of inclination is 45 degrees., it ensures the stability of the structure against strong gusts of wind and at the same time does not allow significant snow masses to accumulate on the roof.

The rafters are attached to the Mauerlat in several ways, this can be a cut-in followed by fastening with nails or using metal brackets. In the case of using brackets, labor-intensive cutting into the rafter leg is not required; the structures are connected using self-tapping screws or bolts. The metal thickness of the bracket is about 2 mm. and anti-corrosion coating ensure the reliability and durability of the fastening. Recently during construction wooden houses The popular "skid" fastening element provides a small degree of fastening freedom to compensate for possible deformations during building settlement. In parallel with the fastening of the rafters to the Mauerlat, the installation of ceiling logs is carried out - transverse beams that serve as the basis for the attic floor. The usual section of the log is 100 × 150 or 200 × 100 mm, depending on the width of the building span. When connecting ceiling joists with rafters, it is possible to provide additional strength to the rafter system.

The upper part of the rafters, when installing the roof with your own hands, can also be connected in several ways:

• overlapping (in this case, a cut is made in half of the rafter section and a hole is drilled for a bolted connection using wide washers)
• by cutting the ends of the rafters at an angle (the upper ends of the timber are cut to obtain a vertical joint; to ensure the strength of the assembly, fixing plates or wooden strips are used)

To provide additional rigidity, at a distance from the top of the rafters about ¼ of the total height of the structure, horizontal ties with a section of 100 × 50 mm are attached.

It is carried out along the roof directly onto the rafters using small nails or construction stapler. Work begins from the bottom of the rafters so that the upper canvas overlaps the lower one by 5-10 cm... In this case, the film should sag, but no more than 2 cm. At the final stage of these works, counter-rails with a section of 25 × 50 mm are nailed onto the rafters on top of the film.

The battens are used to fasten the roofing elements to the roof structure. Usually, boards with a section of 100 × 25 mm are used for its implementation. and a length sufficient to overlap two steps of the rafter legs. Fastening to the rafters is carried out using nails with a length of at least 100 mm. The joint of the battens should be on the supports and the distance between their ends should not exceed 5 mm... The boards that form the ridge (top of the rafter system) should be as close to each other as possible. The type of lathing is selected based on the type of roofing to be laid. For soft, tiled and roll roofs continuous flooring is required. Sometimes a two-layer flooring device is required, in this case the first layer of boards is parallel to the ridge, the second - perpendicularly, along the roof slope. For slate and metal roofs, a crate with a board pitch commensurate with the dimensions of the material used is quite suitable.

Depending on the selected roof material, the corresponding installation method is also used. Slate, ondulin and shingles roofs start from the bottom of the roof, providing sufficient overlap of the overlying row to the underlying one. Slate and ondulin are attached to the lathing with roofing nails, bitumen shingles - with galvanized nails with a wide head. The metal shingles are laid in the following way: the first sheet is aligned along the end of the roof and the cornice, the second is higher than the first, the third is on the side, the fourth is higher than the second. Fasten sheets of metal with galvanized self-tapping screws. Ceramic tiles are fixed from bottom to top in rows from right to left. Previously, all the material is laid out evenly on the crate, in stacks of 5-6 tiles. Fastening to the lathing is performed with galvanized screws.

Installation of thermal insulation

It is made from the inside of the roof into the space between the rafters. Insulation is cut into required size so that the width of the sheet is 20-30 mm. more inter-rafter distance. This will ensure the fixation of the material "vspor"; to straighten the material after pushing between the rafters, press on the middle of the sheet. On top of the insulation layer, a vapor barrier film is attached using a construction stapler. Fastening the film must be done with an overlap of 5-7 cm.

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