DIY boat: the best projects and tips on how to make a wooden or plywood boat. How to make a wooden boat for a motor with your own hands? Wooden boats and boats

Active fishing from the water for a predator or peaceful fish, waterfowl hunting, family holiday on a pond - all this is united by one obligatory element - a boat. Variants of ships of various displacements made of rubber, polyvinyl chloride, plastic and metal, modern trading enterprises can offer a great variety. And many worthy products often have one significant drawback - high cost. Coupled with the need to purchase a motor for a boat, the total price of pleasure for many becomes inaccessible. At the same time, there is quite a budget option solution to the problem is to make a ship with your own hands. In order to better understand the intricacies of making a wooden boat, carefully study our instructions.

For a long time, such wood material as plywood has been widely used in construction and furniture production. High strength with a small thickness, durability and even resistance to moisture during additional processing - all this prompted the craftsmen to use it for the independent manufacture of fishing boats equipped with a motor.

Drawings of a future wooden boat

In the event that the dimensional characteristics of the vessel offered by us do not satisfy you, it will not be difficult to find a program that calculates the parameters of all parts of the boat, depending on the desired dimensions and displacement. The possibilities of 3D-modeling will allow you to consider the product from all angles.

The proposed boat has the following dimensions of the main parts:

nose and stern

reinforcing ribs depending on location:

(Click on the picture to enlarge)

Getting Started self-manufacturing boats, you should study a number of additional literature and familiarize yourself with the name and purpose of the main parts of the vessel. Article size limits prevent us from providing users with this information.

Boat assembly

The material for the manufacture of the boat, as noted above, is plywood. In this case, it is desirable to purchase moisture-resistant sheets. In this case, your product is guaranteed to be used for many years without the need frequent repairs. The bottom is best made from 12 mm material, and 10 or even 8 mm can be purchased on the sides.

From the purchased sheets, having previously made patterns, for example, on sheets of wallpaper, you should cut out the details of the boat using an electric jigsaw. Unfortunately, the industry does not produce sheets 5 meters long, so it becomes necessary to glue the bottom and sides of two parts. For this, it is best to use EDP glue, since it has maximum moisture resistance, unlike water-soluble PVA. You can glue it using strips of plywood with a thickness of at least 10 centimeters on one or both sides.

In addition, it is necessary to glue internal stiffeners from strong birch bars located at the required angles according to the drawings shown above. Some options involve the installation of solid saddle cans glued together from two side pieces and a flat bench. This significantly reduces the internal space of the vessel, but increases its buoyancy even when upside down, since air is retained in hermetically sealed cans.

Many novice boat builders are faced with the problem of connecting plywood parts located at different angles. In this case, there is a method that is called "sew and glue." It involves the connection of parts with steel wire or a strong thread, for example, kapron through holes pre-drilled in the fastening edges of the parts, with a diameter of 2-3 millimeters, spaced from the edge by no more than 5 millimeters. After "stitching" the hull, all joining points are additionally glued with fiberglass impregnated with EAF glue or epoxy resin. It is better to glue both inside the boat and outside. This will give you the strongest possible connection.

It is better to start assembling the hull from the side parts - sides, bow and stern. Drill holes according to the above parameters with equal pitch and tighten the body with thread or wire. Check the relative position of the elements, fasten the sides to the stiffeners with self-tapping screws with glue, and glue all the seams with fiberglass, carefully expelling air bubbles from under it. Leave the case until the glue is completely dry.

Using the same technology, attach the bottom to the side parts of the case.

Glue the so-called mooring bar along the sides along their upper edge, designed to protect the hull of your wooden boat from damage when mooring to berths or sides of other ships.

An obligatory element of the boat, which ensures safe entry into a turn, especially when driving with a motor, as well as the lateral stability of the vessel, is the keel. It is attached to the bottom and should be located along its midline.

The central keel is better to make typesetting, glued together from several thin rails.

Additional stickers in the bow will help to give the wooden boat greater strength.

and aft parts.

In addition, it is better to further strengthen the transom - the part of the stern on which the outboard motor is attached.

After all the main and additional parts of the boat are fixed in their places, you can start testing the product. Move the boat to the nearest body of water, lower it into the water and check for leaks, as well as the carrying capacity. The noted deficiencies are marked and eliminated.

Final appearance We give the product staining with oil paints in several layers.

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Buying a wooden boat is a rather costly process that requires a lot of investment. But its manufacture opens up a variety of options, shapes and style solutions for the creator, in which the boat will be made, in addition, he will be able to save a little. wooden boat handmade will be a great addition to fishing, hunting and just relaxing on the water. We will consider how to build a wooden boat further.

The main types of boats

There are several types of materials suitable for building a boat. Among them:

• rubber-based fabric;
• plastic components;

• steel;
• wood;
• plywood.

Inflatable boats are also called fabric boats. For their manufacture, rubber or polymer compounds are used. They are unstable and do not hold well on the water. Easily cracked, unstable to cold and frost. They require constant patching and are very dangerous because they are damaged at the most inopportune moment. The advantages of this kind of boats are ease of transportation, compactness and ease of storage.

Boats made of plastic, first of all, are distinguished by their attractive appearance, they are produced in the most diverse color scheme. In addition, if you use plastic boats correctly, they will serve their owner for decades.

Wooden boats made of boards are less durable than plastic boats. In addition, they require constant care in the form of applying moisture-repellent solutions. Some wooden boat owners soak the device in water before using it to keep it in shape.

Wooden boats photo:

Boats based on plywood are the best option among wooden boats. Plywood has moisture resistance, resistance to heavy loads, strength and durability. The only drawback of plywood is the difficulty in bending it, so such boats do not have smooth lines, but are characterized by the presence of sharp corners.

For the manufacture of metal boats, duralumin is used, which has the properties of strength and resistance to wear. It is possible to use stainless steel for the manufacture of a boat, but in this case, its transportation becomes impossible due to the enormous weight of the weight.

Homemade wooden boats: manufacturing features

To draw drawings of wooden boats, there are special online programs that help calculate the dimensions of a single part. With the help of a 3D constructor, every detail of the boat is visible from all angles.

We offer you to get acquainted with the option of equipment of the boat of the following sizes:

• the lower length of the bow and stern is 200 and 850 cm, the upper length is 500 and 1120 mm, the height is 150, 185 mm;
• dimensions of reinforcing ribs: 1st - bottom height, top and length - 830 mm, 510 mm, 295 mm;
• the board must be cut at an angle; to calculate it, it is better to use a calculator.

Tip: Before you start making a boat, study additional literature related to the number of main parts of the boat and their names.

This boat is made of plywood, when buying which be sure to pay attention to moisture resistance. Such plywood will last several times longer and will not require additional costs for its repair and maintenance.

For the manufacture of the bottom, use plywood with a thickness of 1.2 cm or more, and for the sides and other parts - 0.8 or 1 cm.

After buying plywood, start making boat parts. To do this, you need to prepare special patterns. They are made on large sheets of paper, for example, on wallpaper. The shape of the pattern exactly repeats the shape of the part.

Use to cut out pieces. electric jigsaw. Since the dimensions of the plywood do not allow building the bottom of the boat completely, it is necessary to resort to gluing it from several parts. To do this, use EDP glue or any other adhesive solution which is resistant to moisture. The gluing procedure is carried out using overlays, in the form of plywood strips, from 10 cm long.

For gluing the internal stiffeners, birch beams are used. They are located inside the boat and have a certain angle of inclination. In some versions of the construction of a wooden boat, solid saddle beams are used, for gluing which two side parts are connected to a flat bench. This design allows you to significantly reduce the internal filling of the boat, and also increases the buoyancy property, even if the boat capsizes.

For beginners in boat building main problem the connection of several parts to each other protrudes, especially if it occurs at different angular inclinations. by the most in a simple way is the so-called "stitching and gluing" method. In this case, the parts are interconnected using a wire made of steel or a strong nylon thread. Before that, special holes are drilled in the edges of the parts, their diameter should not exceed four millimeters, and the location from the edge of the boat should not exceed five millimeters. When the body is connected with threads, it is the turn of the next process, which includes gluing all joints with fiberglass. It is fixed to the surface by impregnation with moisture-resistant glue or epoxy resin. It is recommended to carry out gluing both inside the boat and in its outer part.

Start assembling the hull of the boat from the side sections, which include the side, bow and stern. First, holes are drilled, in relation to the indicated values, monitor the evenness of the drilling step. Tighten these parts with a thread or wire. Keep track of the relative position of the parts and the evenness of all corner joints. Self-tapping screws help secure the stiffeners, and fiberglass provides them additional mount. Make sure that no air bubbles form under the fiberglass, if any, take care to remove them.

The bottom is attached to the body in the same way. On the upper part of the sides, it is necessary to glue the timber for the mooring purpose. Its main function is to protect the boat from mechanical damage in the process of its mooring at the pier or shore.

The keel is a mandatory element of the boat. He is responsible for the safe entry of the vessel into turns and for the stability of its side parts. Its fixation occurs along the central part of the bottom, and is installed along its central line.

For the manufacture of the central keel, use not one, but a set of several rails. With additional gluing of parts into the bow or rear of the boat, its strength and stability increase.

We recommend taking care of strengthening the transom - the rear of the stern. After fixing the main parts of the boat, it is recommended to open it with special impregnations. After they dry, proceed to test the vessel. Transport the boat to a river or reservoir and lower it into the water, if there are no leaks, it is ready for operation. It is also recommended to control the amount of cargo that it is able to carry. When all problems are fixed, paint the boat with oil paints. It is necessary to carry out staining in several layers.

DIY wooden boat: instructions for making

Using ordinary plywood and skillful hands make a good boat. The average cost of such a boat is about $ 20-30, which is much lower than buying alternative boats made of rubber or wood.

To make a boat of this type you will need:

• several sheets of plywood;
• polyurethane adhesive;
• nails;
• latex-based paints;
• silicone sealant;
• a syringe to help close the seams;
• sandpaper;
• jigsaw;
• paracord;
• clamp;
• screwdriver;
• roulettes;
• drills;
• brushes for applying paint.

After preparing all the necessary tools, the process of preparing individual parts follows. To do this, the plywood sheet must be divided into three sections, which will act as a bottom and main parts. The first section is 460x610 mm, the second is 310x610 mm, the third is 610x1680 mm.

Two sidewalls are made in the size of 310x2440 mm. Use blocks as supports small size 25x50x2400 mm. The required number of props - 3 pcs. To make the bow, it is recommended to use a bar measuring 25x76x2400 mm. To build a hull, the use of two bars 25x50x2400 mm is required. They are cut into several pieces and fastened with paracord.

When all the details are cut, proceed to self assembly wooden boat. To carry out this process, you need nails and pins. Instructions for assembling a wooden boat with your own hands:

• installation of the bottom and attaching the left side to it;
• fixation of the stern on the left side and connection with the bottom;
• attaching the right side to the bottom and stern;
• nasal fixation.

Before fixing the boat with nails, first assemble it with glue. When the appearance of the boat satisfies the manufacturer, fix the joints with nails.

The next step is painting and polishing the finished product. After collecting the boat, start polishing it from small roughness and bumps. This will require sandpaper or a grinder. Using silicone sealant, it is necessary to close up all the gaps formed during the assembly process. Leave the boat outdoors until it is completely dry. After a day, start painting the boat. Apply the first layer to outer surface, and the second on the inside. After the paint has dried, you need to apply another layer inside the boat.

Now you should check the device on the swim. If there are minor flaws, they need to be eliminated.

Wooden punt boat: the main stages of manufacturing

Before studying the instructions for making wooden punt boats, let's get acquainted with their advantages:

• minimum construction costs;
• light weight, which greatly simplifies its transportation;
• compactness - ease will fit in the garage for the winter, and even in the trunk of a car during transportation;
• does not require special finishing and care;
• easily made by hand.

When choosing the length of the boat, you should take into account the number of people and cargo that will be placed on it, the interval between the optimal values ​​​​of the length of the punt is from 1.8 to 3.8 m. In this case, the width of such a boat is from 1 to 1.5 m. the height of the sides is half a meter. The weight of the boat depends on its size and is about 70 kg. The boat freely accommodates from one to four people.

It is possible to install an additional motor or sail, which can simplify the management of the boat. We will consider how to make a wooden boat further.

1. The first stage of work on the boat is the choice of material for its construction.

To build a punt, you need two types of plywood:

• plywood with enhanced moisture resistance characteristics, the thickness of such material reaches two centimeters, this type of plywood is based on the use of an adhesive base, please note that it contains harmful substances, therefore, it is not recommended to use it in residential premises; as an alternative, we recommend purchasing multi-layer laminated plywood, it is safer for health;
• aviation plywood five-layer type - has light weight, but it is highly durable; seats and a transom are made from it.

There are certain rules for working with the material that underlies the construction of a punt, namely:

• use a disc plate to cut the material into parts;
• if the thickness of the plywood does not exceed one centimeter, a clerical knife is enough to cut it;

• with a thickness of two to six centimeters, the most optimal option is to use a jigsaw;
• it is not recommended to cut the plywood across the grain as there is a risk of cracking, if necessary in this type of cutting, draw weakening strips on top layer veneer;
• when arranging popular types of wooden boats, the parts are interconnected using wire, self-tapping screws or epoxy resin; when fixing with self-tapping screws, they cannot be driven onto the plywood surface, as this damages it, it is recommended to first drill a hole of the appropriate diameter, and then install a self-tapping screw;
• if it is necessary to arrange a boat with curved shapes, you need to wet the plywood, bend it into the desired position and fix it until it is completely dry, the duration of the procedure is about 15 hours;
• in the process of gluing parts, pay attention to the packaging from the glue, it indicates general recommendations on its drying and work rules, which include cleaning, degreasing and surface treatment with glue;
• pay attention to the location of the fibers on the surface of two plywood parts, with their parallel arrangement, the fastening reliability increases several times;
• when plywood is delaminated during the work, it is recommended to glue it, for this, a paper sheet impregnated with glue is placed between the delaminated layers, such plywood is not suitable for building a boat, since it is defective.

2. The next stage involves the choice of the optimal tool for the work. Cutting the material will help electric saw or a jigsaw. With the help of an electric planer, it will be possible to make the necessary angle of the bar. It is allowed to use any electrical or mechanical tools for grinding. Using a screwdriver, install self-tapping screws and make holes for them.

3. Most optimal location work on the boat floor, as large parts will not fit on the table. Set the plywood sheet on the floor surface and transfer the details to its surface using a square.

Tip: To significantly save material, you should make a preliminary sketch of the boat on paper. Experts recommend, if possible, to build an exact copy of the boat out of cardboard in order to have an idea of ​​​​its original form.

There will be two versions of the boat. The first involves the installation of vertical sides that have straight lines. The second - the classic version - is the installation of sides, a slightly narrowed character. To make them, you will need a piece of work. To do this, it is recommended to use an electric planer. Walk with him on the surface of the parts once. Then repeat the procedure with any grinding tool. If there are barbells or other jumpers in the fretwork that increase rigidity, at this stage they are cut out.

Tip: To make the assembly process easier, use the plastic ties used with the cables. They become almost invisible after the final finishing of the boat with epoxy resin.

When the frame is assembled, proceed to connect the bottom. Its fixation is carried out with clamps or the same metal wire. Please note that the bottom must be sealed with high quality, for this it is poured with resin. If you use fiberglass gluing, then leaks cannot be avoided.

When all joints are dry, proceed to the next treatment. It includes sanding seams. Next, the joints are glued with fiberglass coated with epoxy resin. The outer part is glued twice, and the inner one once.

4. Installation of additional components.

If it is necessary to install a sail, the vessel needs to be additionally strengthened, thereby increasing its stability. It is better to do this with a dagger. for its manufacture, plywood 0.6 cm thick is required. In addition, a steering wheel is cut out of this plywood. The number of daggerboards depends on the size of the boat. The best option is to install two daggerboards at the extreme parts of the vessel. The steering wheel is attached to the boat with several loops, preferably of a non-removable nature.

1. Organizational questions
2. What is yes and what is not?
3. What to do?
4. ABC truths
5. materials
6. How to make a boat
7. Supply
8. Project examples
9. Finally

A boat on the farm may be needed not only for fishing, hunting or recreation on the water. In sparsely populated regions with a developed network waterways pvc boats admiralspb.com are essentials, and in populated areas, the production and rental of watercraft profitable business. Everyone knows how boaters make money at resorts. However, in trade classifiers, small boats do not belong to goods whose pricing is subject to regulation. Therefore, the request: is this possible at all, and how a boat is made with one's own hands is quite popular. The answer to the first question is unambiguous: yes, and much easier than is commonly believed. A good, roomy, reliable and seaworthy boat can be made far from the water without a slipway and a slipway, in any room that is suitable in size. And how - there is this article about it.

In preparing materials for this publication, the books “300 Tips on Boats, Boats and Motors” were of great help. G. M. Novak. L. Shipbuilding 1977 and "Kurbatov D. A. 15 projects of ships for amateur construction" L. Shipbuilding 1986. The author expresses his deep gratitude to the authors of these informative guides. Further, in the hints to the illustrations, they are designated “H74”, “H77” and “K.”, respectively. As for the years of publication, have the waters and winds changed since then? Today's ships are built and sail according to the same laws, only modern materials and computer technology makes it possible to use them more fully.

Organizational questions

The reader probably already has questions: is it really so simple? Built - and swim? With a wife, kids, passengers, at sea in a storm? Depending on the circumstances, you may need a trail for a rigid hull boat. documents and supplies:

• A boat for myself only, a small non-navigable body of water - sales receipts for used materials in case you need to prove that they were not stolen. A reservoir is considered small, in which the distance from the coast is possible by no more than 500 m, and a single boat is only for itself;
• A boat for oneself, a navigable reservoir of any size - additionally a certificate for the right to drive a small boat (an analogue of the rights to motor vehicles) and a certificate of its registration. Both are issued by the local authorities of the transport (water) inspection. On board the boat must be marked with her registration number in the prescribed form;
• The same as according to paragraphs. 1 and 2, there can be free passengers in the boat - except for documents under paragraphs. 1 and 2 also a life jacket for each person on board and a mandatory minimum set of supplies, see below;
• All the same, but passengers or cargo are paid - in addition, a license for the right of passenger or cargo transportation by water;
• All according to paragraphs. 1-4, sailing or motor-sailing boat, incl. with a complete emergency sail - in addition, a yacht helmsman's certificate or other certificate for the right to control a sailing vessel;
• The boat is made for sale, not serial - a license for the right to manufacture small boats.

I must say that in non-navigable water bodies, violations of paragraphs. 1-3 are massive, and in sparsely populated areas - indiscriminate. The Water Inspectorate has neither legal nor organizational and technical capabilities to get there. Therefore, claims against the owner of the vessel arise or his criminal prosecution begins only upon the fact of the consequences of the accident.

What is yes and what is not?

There are countless designs of small boats, but for a novice amateur when choosing a prototype you need to follow the trail. considerations that a homemade boat must satisfy:

1. The boat must be built according to a proven design and / or with full consideration of the vital provisions of the theory of the ship, the rules of shipbuilding and navigation, see below;
2. The boat must be reliable, i.e. strong, durable, stable, capacious in terms of weight and volume, sufficiently seaworthy for the given navigation conditions and at the same time controllable in waves, currents in the river and in a shallow overgrown reservoir;
3. The boat should be light enough so that the owner can single-handedly pull it ashore or launch it, and with an adult physically averagely developed assistant, load it for transportation;
4. Boat building technology should not include operations requiring special skills or production equipment, but should be forgiving of beginner mistakes and replacing standard materials and manufacturing methods with those available under the circumstances;
5. It is desirable that the boat can walk well and stay on the wave on oars, under the engine and sail - to save fuel and have a good rest;
6. The cost of building a boat should be kept to a minimum;
7. If the boat is stored away from a body of water, it is highly desirable that it meet the requirements for cartop ships, i.e. allowed transportation on the top trunk of a car.

For the whole set of qualities, except for the price of materials, a plywood boat will be the best choice for your first boat. The boardwalk will cost approx. half the price, but it will be as much heavier and will last much less, except for the option with a thin-walled steel bottom, see below. Homemade fiberglass boats are expensive and difficult to build, although they are reliable and durable. Subject to all these conditions, the following are not considered further:

• All-metal welded and riveted boats.
• Gliding ships.
• Small pleasure catamarans.
• foam boats, plastic bottles, pontoon boats and planks of rectangular shape, etc. exotic.
• Inflatable boat.

The grounds for such "truncation" are as follows. All-metal home-made vessels are not examined and registered by the transport inspection bodies due to the fact that it is technically impossible to ensure their proper reliability in artisanal conditions.

Building a glider is not a job for a beginner. Regular dynamic loads on the planing hull are high, and you can take on it after making sure that your first boat still floats well. Although, it must be said, having some experience, at home it is quite possible to build a boat-kartop that goes on gliding on a small wave under a motor of only 3.5-6 hp, see for example. track. video.

Video: an example of a homemade glider boat and its testing

A small catamaran, let it be known to the reader, is easier to build than a boat of equal capacity, and the restrictions on the choice of materials for it are softer; for example, foam can be widely used. On the bridge of the catamaran (a platform that connects the hulls-floats) you can stand, walk, tumble as you like, you can put up a tent there and even cook a barbecue. However, a catamaran is not a boat and the question of homemade catamarans requires separate consideration.

Boat exotics from improvised materials are simply dangerous. For example, a monohull foam boat will either be something extremely fragile, suitable for swimming only in a paddock fence, or an almost uncontrollable raft, highly susceptible to drift by currents or winds.

As for inflatable boats, the enthusiasm for them is explained, in addition to the possibility of carrying on oneself, by the fact that in order to register a purchased “gum” boat on a navigable reservoir, it is enough to present a manufacturer’s certificate, and even then the water inspection looks at him through his fingers to the side. However, this does not apply to homemade inflatable boats in any way.

At the same time, it is enough to look at the patterns of the simplest inflatable boat (see fig.) to make sure that it is much more difficult to glue its seams properly in artisanal conditions than to build a more capacious and reliable boat with a rigid hull, and quality materials for a soft plastic boat will cost a lot more than best plywood and epoxy glue.

But the most important thing: without special equipment, it is generally impossible to reliably (without the possibility of inspection) to glue bulkheads into a cylinder. A home-made "gum" will be one-balloon: suddenly there is a hole, and you are not in a life jacket, it is far from the shore, or the reservoir is heavily overgrown - you just have to mentally sum up your life. For the end is near.

Note: if you definitely want to glue your boat instead of building it, then it’s better to make it from ... scraps water pipes. You can’t blow off such a boat and hide it in a backpack, but it will be unsinkable. How a boat is made pvc pipes, see the video below.

Video: an example of a homemade PVC pipe boat

What to do?

There are also many designs of plywood and plank boats that do not require production conditions for the construction; People have been swimming since time immemorial. Let's try to decide how a novice shipbuilder-navigator can navigate in this diversity. For example, boats such as canoes (item 1 in the figure), kayaks, kayaks or domestic troubles are very walkable, very seaworthy and at the same time are not afraid of overgrown shallow waters. However, to manage them, not only experience is needed, but a great art. In terms of the number of drownings among beginners, canoe-type boats are firmly in the top of the rating among small boats. In addition, such rigid-hulled boats are technologically complex, because their contours are of double curvature.

The Russian fofan boat (pos. 2) is no less legendary in its reliability than the American dory (see below), but it is very stable, roomy, and a green salaga can manage it. Twisted contours in the bow make the fofan well suited to the wave in full load, and together with the “pot-bellied” hull, gentle contours in the stern and a deepened transom, it is able to go quite quickly, up to 20 km / h or more, under a sufficiently powerful motor in a transitional (semi-planing ) mode. But, as we can see, the contours of the fofan are also doubly curved, and it is heavy: to turn the fofan, you need at least 2-3 strong men.

The pleasure and fishing boat Russian dinghy (pos. 3; Russian because there is also an American dinghy dinghy boat, see below) is light, but again with double curvature contours. The same applies to the marine sailboat, pos. 5, although under sail she keeps steadily on course on a 4-point wave, and it is possible to pull her ashore alone.

Blow once!

So, we decided on one more requirement in a home-made plywood boat: its contours must be of single curvature, i.e. the surfaces forming the body shall be curved planes. For small quiet inland waters, the best choice would be a skiff-type punt boat, pos. 5. The Scythians in such conditions proved to be the most reliable courts. In addition, skiff boats are cheap, easy to build, light: a 4-meter skiff with a galvanized bottom can be lifted and loaded by one person. An additional advantage for these sailing conditions is that the Scythians are perfectly controlled in the course and in overgrown reservoirs. There is simply nothing for water or algae to grab onto.

Note: contrary to popular belief, a skiff boat can sail perfectly, see below. But - only on calm water! On a wave, the Scythian, like any shallow-draft punt, becomes dangerous - the wave hits the bottom, knocking the ship off course and trying to capsize.

In somewhat more difficult sailing conditions, on waves up to 2-3 points, a dinghy boat will be optimal. In appearance, the dinghy is easy to recognize by the bow transom-forespiegel and the keeled (as they say, having a transverse V) bottom, pos. 6. The latter makes it easier for the dinghy to climb the wave, and the forespille makes the ratio of capacity to overall dimensions and the dinghy's own weight is almost a record. Thanks to this, the dinghy is the most popular weekend boat among residents of places far from the water: a 2-3-seater dinghy on the top trunk fits into the dimensions of a car, and can weigh less than 50 kg. Technologically, the dinghy is even simpler than the skiff - it can be assembled by sewing plywood (see below) just on the floor in the apartment.

Dinghy under sail (pos. 7) is quite safe, but very nimble, and therefore an excellent vessel for initial sailing training. I learned how to manage this - you can safely move on to the tiller / steering wheel and sheets of a large yacht. In the USSR, the Golden Fish dinghy was widely used to train teenage cadets in yacht clubs.

Note: in coastal areas, one can often meet nautical pointed-nosed dinghs. Outwardly, they look like a fofan squeezed along (pos. 8), but in fact the hydrodynamics and mechanics of their body are almost the same as those of a dinghy with a forespiegel.

Finally, if you live by the sea or a large inland lake, know the big water and longed to finally build a boat for it with your own hands, then the choice should be stopped on the dory. Dory boats are truly ocean-going. Newfoundland fishermen have caught and are catching fish 280 and even 400 km from the coast. The seaworthiness and reliability of dories are phenomenal: there are many cases when large reliable ships were wrecked in a severe storm, and dories then returned home safely in the same waters.

Dory boats are known in 2 modifications: purely rowing banking and sailing (pos. 9). To manage a bank dory, you need to be a salty sailor from childhood, because. their static stability is low. The sailing dory is not so capricious; a beginner who knows the basics of sailing a ship is able to learn how to manage it. In addition, it is possible to install a motor in a well on a sailing dory. Of course, equipping a boat with a motor well is more difficult than strengthening a transom for a motor (see below), but on the other hand, the motor and propeller will be better protected from damage, and it will be possible to repair the motor on the water without fear of drowning a part or tool.

ABC truths

To make a boat right, you need to choose a technically competent, suitable for the given sailing conditions and available resources for its project. To choose a project, you need to know at least the very basics of ship theory, small shipbuilding, navigation and maritime practice on small ships. So let's start with theory.

Propulsion

The propulsion of a displacement vessel is determined by the Froude number Fr. Physically, it means that with an increase in Fr, the length of the bow wave of the vessel increases rapidly, see Fig.:

At the same time, most of the engine power or sail thrust is spent on maintaining it. The motor switches to the “fuel-burning” mode, at the same time quickly burning its resource, and the sail, as a rule, is not able to pull the vessel up to Fr>0.3. Hence the important conclusion: do not try to increase the speed of the boat by putting too powerful a motor on it. You will only make swimming more dangerous and you will burn money for fuel in vain. If the recommended motor power is not indicated in the boat project, it can be determined from the table. on the trail. rice.

Movement at a value of Fr that is too large for a given hull is also dangerous: the boat may seem to be hanging on the crests of neighboring waves, or it will tend to move back from the bow wave and dig its stern into the water. If, frightened by the wave that has risen in front of the bow, sharply release the gas, the boat will be flooded from the stern with the next wave that has come running: having formed, the waves move according to their own laws.

Already by looking at the theoretical drawing, one can estimate at what Froude numbers a given ship is capable of sailing. For example, a boat in pos. 5 - semi-planing. Next, you need to check the coincidence of the lines of the drawing:

• The distances from the DP to the waterlines of the overhead lines on the half-width projection must match the distances from the DP to the lines of the frames on the hull projection, respectively. levels from the OP. Taking into account the scale, because the projection of the hull, necessary for the construction of patterns and frame templates, is most often given on an enlarged scale (see pos. 4).
• The distances from the OP to the buttocks must be equal to the distances from the OP to the lines of frames and waterlines on the same secant plane parallel to the DP, also taking into account the scale.

Next, you should evaluate the driving performance of the vessel: using the trapezoid method, the cross-sectional areas of the underwater part are determined along the frames and segments, respectively. lengths are plotted along the vertical axis, see fig. The distance between the segments (on the same scale) is one spacing, i.e. the distance between the sections along the frames. The envelope of the segments, the so-called. combatant along the frames, should form a semi-contour of a certain streamlined body.

The construction of the drill on the frames is similar to the application of the area rule in aviation. But, firstly, in incompressible water, its action affects any speeds, and not transonic ones. Secondly, the ship's hull is only partially submerged in water and therefore excites gravitational waves in motion, and not pressure ones. Therefore, the drill on the frames should not look like a half of a drop, but of an animated body, like an artillery shell. The flatter the drill turns out to be along the frames, the more popular the ship will be, and the wide drill speaks of its good controllability. The “tail” at the back indicates the ability to walk on significant Froude numbers, and the “beak” at the front indicates good germination on the wave, but at the same time a tendency to yaw.

Note: in addition to the frames, according to the theoretical drawing, a true bypass of the inclined transom is built, see Fig.:

materials

Wood and plywood

The basic structural materials for a boat require some pre-treatment. In order for a wooden boat to last as long as possible, wood materials must first be abundantly impregnated with a water-soluble antiseptic (biocide) for wood. Not oil, not in the air it will be!

Plywood, incl. waterproof, impregnated in several steps with intermediate drying to avoid delamination. In the latter, only the glue is waterproof, and the veneer is wood as it is. Further, in order to fix the biocide and reduce the swelling of the wood, the material is impregnated in the same way 2-3 times with a water-polymer emulsion. Unless otherwise specified in the project, the thickness of plywood for the sides of a boat up to 4 m long should be taken from 4 mm, for the bottom from 6 mm and for the transom from 12 mm; boards, depending on the species and quality of the wood, three to four times more. The method of correct gluing of wooden parts and the permissible bending radii of the boards are given in fig. higher. They are different from construction!

Sheets of plywood larger than 1550 mm are difficult to find, so they are pre-glued into strips of the desired length with a mustache joint, see fig. It is impossible to learn how to accurately and accurately cut plywood from descriptions, so practice on scraps. One can only advise to plan the mustache with a rough planer, and finish it with a grinder or a flat bar wrapped in sandpaper. Glue the sheets with epoxy glue. The quality of the hook is checked next. way:

• Cut a strip approx. 10 cm. This is almost always possible, because curvilinear details will be cut out.
• The strip is brought into a ring and pulled together until the plywood bursts.
• If the joint is of high quality, the plywood should crack anywhere but it.

Type-setting boat hulls are assembled on red-copper nails (holes need to be drilled under them), galvanized or conical screws. Red-copper nails are bitten and riveted in washers; galvanized bend. Holes are drilled under the screws; their dimensions, methods of working with nails and tables of fasteners, see fig.

Note: Recently, quite a few amateurs have been assembling boats on furniture confirmatory screws, using the same technological methods as when assembling cabinet furniture - cabinets, kitchen corners etc. So far, these boats are floating, but not for long in order to judge their reliability for a long time.

fiberglass

Fiberglass fabric glued with epoxy glue is widely used in small shipbuilding. But there are a lot of complaints about her: they say, she didn’t swim until the fall - it flowed. The reason is the paraffin that is coated on the fiberglass before it is spun and woven. Paraffin from fiberglass is removed by boiling in water. Do not burn, the fabric will become brittle! The fiberglass is boiled in a clean container for at least half an hour, then the container with the contents is allowed to cool completely, the paraffin crust is removed from the surface of the water, and only then the fiberglass is removed.

Techniques for working with fiberglass on fiberglass and wood are shown in fig. Bonding the parts of a set of extruded polystyrene foam XPS - effective method increase rigidity wooden case, slightly increasing its weight, and assembling a plywood boat by sewing on epoxy glue is technologically simple and gives a completely reliable vessel. Staples are made of copper wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm; the pitch of the pairs of holes for them is 40-60 mm. Looking ahead, the technology for sewing boats from plywood on epoxy is as follows:

1. Cut out parts without allowance;
2. The edges are planed to form a wedge-shaped profile joint with a base width of 1.5-2 mm;
3. If the bottom is keeled, its parts are stapled together, the workpiece is placed on the keel blocks (see below) and the sides are sewn on. The flat bottom is immediately placed on the tragus, the sides are sewn on;
4. Expose the body along the contours (also see below) and fill the seams with glue from the inside;
5. After the glue has hardened, the seams are also sealed from the inside with 3 layers of fiberglass (see the figure above). It is not necessary to remove the staples: firstly, the seam with them will be stronger, and secondly, the puttied holes from the staples are a potential source of leakage;
6. When the last sizing hardens, the transoms (transom) are glued in the same way;
7. The body is removed from the keel blocks (tragus), the brackets are bitten flush from the outside and the seams are pasted over with 3 layers of fiberglass;
8. Frames, a centerboard well, cans (seats), a breshtuk (see below), a gunwale, a fender, etc., are glued into the body, which is necessary for the project;
9. Produce refurbishment and finishing.

How to make a boat

We sew

In the designs of the boats of the Kartop Dings and the Scythians, patterns of their details are often given. In this case, the boat is assembled by sewing (stitching) on ​​keel blocks or tragus, see fig. The dry-sewn case is exposed along the contours using templates-patterns and temporary mounting struts. The seams of the sheet seams, as the most durable, are located closer to the nose, as the most loaded and prone to damage.

We are building

The construction of a sharp-chine boat of a larger capacity than a stitched boat with single curvature contours begins with the manufacture of a stem (see below) and the assembly of frame frames. The frames of embroidered boats are often simply cut out of plywood (there are only 2-3 of them), but in this case it is so uneconomical - too much rather expensive material will go to waste. The frames are assembled on the plaza, i.e. on a flat plane, on which the projections of the theoretical drawing are transferred on a scale of 1: 1. If the contours of the boat are simple, and there is not enough space, only the projection of the hull can be transferred to the plaza. Methods for assembling frame frames, as strength, complexity and weight increase, are given in fig. Grooves for the keel and stringers are selected in advance.

Next, the frame frames are placed on the frame (pos. and on the next figure), set vertically, by contours, the keel bar, stem (see below), fender bar and stringers are attached. After that, the set of the body is reduced with an even bar (pos. b). The purpose of the malkovka, firstly, is to create cuts in the keel beam, along which it will be planed to a given deadrise; secondly, to check whether a section of double curvature has been tucked somewhere, and resp. trim the bottom edges of the floor timbers. Then sheathing is applied, starting from the keel (below in the figure). After that, the body is removed from the frame, completed and equipped.

Note: some amateurs, after malkovka, hack against the rules of shipbuilding, removing the cutting of the skin from the muted set onto sheets of packaging cardboard. Then you don’t need to suffer with geometry according to a theoretical drawing, but the boats are nothing, they float.

Nose

The forteven is the most loaded and responsible part of the hull set. One of the immutable rules of safe navigation says: if the danger cannot be avoided, it must be taken on the bow. Therefore, the manufacture of the stem of the boat should be taken with all responsibility.

Boat stem designs are given in fig. Waterstop plugs made of hard, non-rotting wood prevent water from seeping into the hull. In terms of reliability, all these designs are approximately the same. A stem with a false nose is used in boats with a narrow stem.

On waves and when hitting obstacles, the stem experiences large dynamic loads, tending to spread the body, so it is reinforced with an insert-breshtuk. Amateur shipbuilders often neglect it or do not even know what it is; this is one of the significant reasons that home-made boats serve much less than the terms stated in the projects.

Stern

Another rather important part of the set, especially for a boat designed for a motor, is the transom. Transom design for motor up to 10-12 hp given in fig. on right. Total, with reinforcement, transom thickness - from 40 mm. Possibly more: some outboard motor mounting clamps do not converge less than 50-60mm.

Unsinkability

A radical means of avoiding the dire consequences of accidents on the water is an unsinkable boat. It is quite simple to make a deckless vessel with a displacement of up to 0.5 tons unsinkable: foam blocks are glued under the banks and along the sides from the inside; then, in the bow and in the stern, you can fence off respectively. fore peak and after peak and fill them with foam. The volume of unsinkable blocks in a cube. m is calculated by the formula V=1.2W(1+?), where W is the displacement in tons, 1 is the density of fresh water, ? is the mass density of the foam. For example, if? = 0.08 tf / cu. m, then for a boat with a displacement of 0.25 tons, 0.324 cubic meters will be needed. m or 324 cubic meters. dm foam. It seems to be a lot, but in a dinghy boat 3 m long, such an amount is placed without a noticeable deterioration in habitability.

Supply

The minimum set of mandatory equipment for a recreational and fishing boat consists of oars, life jackets according to human capacity, an anchor on a chain or cable, a mooring end and, in case of navigation in the dark, a white bow or top (on the mast) navigation light all-round visibility. The latter is often neglected, which is inexcusable in our time: now there are autonomous LED lights baby cam size with built-in solar battery and battery. Anchor deserves special attention from this set.

Anchor

Joseph Conrad called the anchors "honest pieces of iron", and no wonder: the anchor may be the last chance to save the ship and the people on it. Small vessels are most often equipped with cat anchors, but this is far from the best option. First, cats often get stuck on rocks. There are cat anchors on sale with paws that lean back with a sharp jerk, but they are unreliable: the vessel can spontaneously anchor just when you need to hold on tightly. Secondly, the cat, like the classic Admiralty anchor, becomes dangerous in shallow water: the ship can sit down on the bottom of the anchor leg sticking up.

For small vessels, Hall, Matrosov and lightweight Trident anchors of increased holding power are also produced. They are quite expensive, but you can’t make them yourself, you need cast parts. You can make Kurbatov’s welded anchor on your own (see fig.), it is suitable for boats up to 5 m long. pig in 2-3 kg.

Suddenly, Kurbatov's anchor gets stuck in the stones, the ingot must be raised before it is released. The anchor, stuck completely, is released by a strong sharp jerk on the cable. In this case, parts 4 and 8 may be damaged, but in most cases they can be corrected right there with a hammer and pliers.

About anchoring

In the butt of the anchor, it is necessary to thread an eye during manufacture - a steel ring freely dangling in it. An eyelet is also supplied with a gum-tack - the attachment point of the anchor cable / chain to the ship's hull. Eyelets greatly reduce the wear of the cable / chain and the likelihood of their sudden break.

Zhvaka-tack is attached outside to the stem. You need to fasten the gum-tack lower, above the waterline itself. In this case, the boat at anchor will be better to win back on the wave, not to burrow its nose into the water in the waves, and the likelihood of the anchor getting stuck is much reduced.

Project examples

There are enough good projects of cart boats, dinghys and Scythians in RuNet and in general on the Internet. Therefore, we will dwell on the projects of boats more spacious.

Scythian

The appearance, data and design of the Scythian boat developed by D. A. Kurbatov, suitable for transportation on the upper trunk of a car, are given in fig. Her distinguishing feature extreme cheapness: the main material is boards, and on the bottom there is a small size, i.e. monkeys. If you choose the right boards for the bottom (highlighted in red in the next figure), then the plank bottom will be quite reliable. Moreover, today the seams between the boards can be caulked with a construction deformation cord (used to seal cracks in concrete) and silicone sealant. Of course, the bottom of this boat can also be made of plywood, then its weight will decrease to 70-80 kg.

On the trail. rice. drawings of the details of this boat are given and a method of assembling it is shown, also very economical: on a simplified slipway according to templates. Under the motor, the transom is reinforced, as described above.

Further on fig. the sailing armament of this boat and drawings of oars for it are shown. The sail is rake (emphasis on “o”), you can learn how to handle it in half an hour or an hour, without knowing the theory at all. But - do not put this sail into the wind fresh and stronger! The CPU of a rake sail is significantly higher, it rolls the boat more, and it is a punt!

As for the oars, it is better to make them exactly according to the drawing. Scythian boats do not oar very easily, therefore, in order to save the rower's muscular efforts, the configuration of the oars and the profile of their blades are of great importance.

About iron bottom

Scythian boats are sometimes made with a galvanized iron bottom. Such a boat, firstly, with plywood sides, weighs only approx. 50 kg or less, i.e. it can be turned as you like alone. Secondly, a boat with a steel bottom turns out to be much more durable in reservoirs with an acidic reaction of water, which are more than enough in the Russian Federation: ions of even very weak acids spoil glue and protective coatings. There is only one minus for home-made boats with a steel bottom: it is useless to present them for examination for the purpose of registration, and they will not look.

Dory

The same author also developed a project for a plywood dory sailing boat, see fig; according to the table of plasma ordinates, the skin is cut, but see above. In shallow sea waters with a short steep "evil" wave (Azov, the north of the Caspian Sea, the Marquis puddle in the Baltic), this boat proved to be better than a sea boat or an Azov longboat.

Below in fig. Dan structural drawing boats, the method of its construction on the slipway, the design of the stem and the method of inserting the longitudinal parts of the set are shown. Wood must be of high quality, without knots and defects, because. the wooden parts of the set are prestressed during assembly.

On the trail. Fig. drawings of the sailing armament of the dory are given. Since a sailing dory can go quite strong wind, it is envisaged to sail one reef. Follow the indicated dimensions exactly: dory boats are very critical to the relative position of the CPU and CLS!

Finally

After swimming, especially in cool weather, one wants, it is necessary and healthy to eat and sip something hot. Not intoxicating, on water it is necessary to observe the dry law. Therefore, in conclusion, we give drawings of the stove - a boat and yacht stove, which can also be useful in the country, a picnic and in general on the farm.

Buying a boat is a costly business. That is why many are wondering how to make their own small and reliable vessel. The process of creating a boat is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. However, it is quite laborious and requires a lot of attention to detail.

The first and most important step is to determine what the vessel will be made of. There are not many options, let's look at them:

• Rubber based fabric. The end result is an inflatable boat.
• Plastic.
• Steel.
• Wood.
• Plywood.

Each of the options has its own advantages and disadvantages, which are immediately evident. But now we will talk about a boat made of wood.

Having decided on the material, you can proceed to the next stages of planning and preparation.

Manufacturing features

There are really a lot of features, so let's look at them in detail:

1. Woodwork. First and main feature- ability to work with wooden structures and with wood in particular. You need to understand which boards are best to choose, how to bend them correctly, what loads this or that material can withstand. Before starting work, it is best to prepare and read books on working with wood. Finding them is very easy, they are freely available on the Internet.
2. The choice of materials for assembly. In addition to wood, you must immediately decide on other materials that will help hold the boat together and protect it from leaking. They must be suitable for the material that has been chosen and interact well with it.
3. Place of assembly. For manufacturing, you will definitely need a lot of space, as well as time. For professionals, it can take from 4 to 10 days to manufacture and assemble, depending on the complexity. A beginner will need several times more time. That is why it is important to choose a dry and comfortable place.
4. Instruments. To facilitate and speed up the process, you will need whole line tools (which we will discuss later). In addition, it is desirable to have an additional pair of hands at some stages of the assembly.

These are the main features that you need to know, but as you work, it is likely that you will have to deal with others.

Drawing of a boat from boards for self-production

Deciding on sizes

One of the most important steps in the planning stage. The size depends on the capacity, load capacity and weight. It is very important to observe the correct dimensions so that the boat is stable on the water.

You can change them at your discretion, but within reason:

• The length of the entire structure. The length can vary from two to four meters. If the vessel is designed for one, then the length should be 1.8 - 2.5 meters. Two people - about 3 meters. Three people - 3.5 - 4 meters. A boat with a length of 3 - 4 meters can easily withstand up to 5-6 people, the question here is more in comfort.
• Width. Also one of the main criteria. The average width is 1 - 1.5 meters. The greater the width, the more stable wonderfully. On the other hand, the greater the width, the less maneuverability. Need to find golden mean. It is different for everyone depending on the human body, the cargo that will be transported, as well as the length of the entire structure.
• Board height. The average and recommended board height is 50 centimeters. Again, you can make it both higher and lower, depending on your desire.

It is based on these dimensions that it will be necessary to make all the details in the future. It is difficult to determine these dimensions by eye, so it is best to make a drawing for clarity.

Turning to the drawings, we must immediately say that it is not necessary to have a talent for drawing. At the moment, the drawing can be done without having such skills online on the Internet. You can make a three-dimensional model that will meet all the requirements and desires.

In the drawing, in addition to the main dimensions, you must immediately determine the dimensions of other, smaller, but no less important details. It is best to make drawings for them separately, so that in the future you do not have to adjust them.

Reference planes required to build a theoretical drawing of the boat hull

Necessary materials and tools

Having dealt with all theoretical issues, we turn to practice. Collecting all the tools and materials and preparing them for work is the final part of the preparation, so this process must be treated with particular care.

Consider the list of tools and tools that will be needed during assembly:

This is the main list of what will come in handy during assembly. In addition, other tools may come in handy in the process. For example, a hacksaw, a hammer, clamps, etc.

Selection of boards for sheathing the bottom of a punt boat

Manufacturing process

We turn to the most interesting, the manufacturing process. We will present it in the form of a step-by-step instruction.

There is no place for haste and shortcomings, so we do everything very carefully and clearly:

Boat testing

After the creation and assembly of the vessel, we proceed to its testing.

You can test the boat in different ways, but it is best in how many stages:

• The first waterproof test can be done in the yard. To do this, turn the boat over and install it on some kind of support (chairs, benches, table). Next pour on it a large number of water. To do this, it is best to use a hose and “water” for 5-10 minutes. After that, the boat can be turned over and checked if water got inside.
• Now, knowing that the schooner does not let water through, you can go to the exit to the big water. More precisely, try it in action. It is strongly recommended not to swim out to great depths for the first half hour, because if something is done wrong and the boat starts to quickly take on water, it is much easier to get it aground.

It is strongly recommended not to swim to great depths for the first half hour

Let's look at a few tips that may come in handy for a beginner in the difficult business of designing and building:

• When assembling, do not spare materials. For example, when fastening the sides to the bottom of the boat, it is worth spending extra time, but tightly walking through all the joints with glue or resin. In the future, such errors will be very difficult to correct.
• Do it with a margin. Extra parts of everything can be removed, for example, sawing off a block in the bow of the boat. This applies to all other details as well.
• Before using large nails or screws, it is advisable to make holes for them with a drill. This will prevent cracking.
• Don't skimp on materials. How better quality wood the longer and better it will serve in the future.

Using ordinary plywood, you can make a strong and well-floating boat. And all this can be done with your own hands and practically without outside help. On average, it will take us about 2-3 thousand rubles to purchase materials for this invention, which, compared to a good rubber boat (on average, the price ranges from 8,000 to 12,000 rubles), is a fairly acceptable option.

Stage 1: Necessary materials and right tool for boat:
- Plywood sheet
- Glue, based on polyurethane type Gorilla;
- Nails
- Latex paint
- Silicone sealant
- Syringe for sealing seams
- Sandpaper
- Jigsaw
- Paracord
- Screwdriver
- Clamp
- Yardstick
- Drill
- brush

Stage 2: Preparing the Parts
We divide the plywood sheet into 3 parts, which will serve as the main parts for the bottom of the boat: 46 cm x 61 cm, 31 cm x 61 cm and 61 cm x 168 cm.

The dimensions of the two sides are - 31 cm x 244 cm.

For props, small bars of 2.5 cm x 5 cm x 240 cm are quite suitable. Three such props are needed.

For the manufacture of the bow and stern, a bar 2.5 cm x 7.6 cm x 240 cm is suitable for us.

For the case, two bars of 2.5 cm x 5 cm x 240 cm are suitable. They must be cut into several pieces, and then fastened with paracord.

Stage 3: Assembly.
We begin to assemble all the main parts of the boat, for this we use nails or pins.

Assembly order is as follows:
1. Fasten left side boats to the bottom.
2. Then the stern - also to the bottom and left side of the boat.
3. We attach the right side to the bottom and stern.
4. And we attach the bow to the bottom and 2 of its sides.

Before we fasten the parts with nails, we first use glue.

Step 4: Surface painting and polishing.
After we put the boat together, we begin to thoroughly clean it from splinters and bumps, using sandpaper (better fit 0 or 1). Then we begin to close up all the cracks on the outside, which were formed during assembly, with silicone sealant. And leave it on outdoors for one day, so it dries faster.

You will need to paint the boat in three layers: 1 - outside and 2 - inside. Before applying a new layer, you should wait a while.

Stage 5: First swim.
Well, the time has come to check our "unsinkable longboat". If something went wrong with your assembly, then I advise you to watch the video of the American radio host Derek Didriksen, in which he creates and tests the same version of the boat.

Stage 6: Motor.
If you have a suitable outboard motor, you can slightly improve the resulting boat.

Happy sailing everyone!