Do-it-yourself plywood boat projects. How to build a wooden boat. Blueprints

  • 10.06.2019

Buying a new boat requires a lot of money. For those who do not want to invest a large amount of money in the purchase of this unit, there is another option - to make a boat yourself. A do-it-yourself swimming tool will complement the fishing process well.

Boat types

Exists the following types swimming facilities:

  • rubber;
  • plastic;
  • steel;
  • wooden;
  • from plywood.

Inflatable boat. In order to make such a boat, rubber or polymer is needed. The disadvantage of these devices is that they:

  1. They do not balance on the water surface.
  2. Not frost resistant.
  3. Easily damaged, so the cracks will have to be constantly patched.

Advantages:

  • convenient transfer;
  • compactness;
  • convenient storage.

plastic boats. With proper maintenance, this type of swimming equipment will last more than ten years. There are boats different colors, with attractive appearance.

wooden boats. These boats are less durable when compared with plastic devices. For wooden material you need:

  • constantly monitor;
  • cover with moisture-repellent solutions.

Many anglers soak their boat in the water before using it for better balance.


Plywood boats.
This variety belongs to wooden boats and is currently the most popular among the population.

Advantages:

  1. Plywood repels moisture well.
  2. Can withstand heavy loads.
  3. Very strong construction material.

The disadvantage of plywood is the difficulty in bending.

metal boats. In order to make this boat you need to use duralumin. This material is very durable and resistant to mechanical damage. When using stainless steel, the boat will be very heavy and it will become almost impossible to transport it.

Making a wooden boat

Via wooden materials and knowledge of the nuances of manufacturing a swimming device, you can get a good result. Consider the entire production process of such a device in order.

Necessary tools and materials

To make a boat with your own hands, you need to purchase:

  • boards;
  • polyurethane adhesive;
  • nails;
  • latex-based paints;
  • silicone sealant;
  • syringe for sealing seams;
  • sandpaper;
  • jigsaw;
  • paracord;
  • clip;
  • screwdriver;
  • roulette;
  • drill;
  • paint brushes.

After all the tools are purchased, some materials should be prepared. The board is divided into parts, as a result of which the following are suitable for the future bottom and base of the hull:

How to catch more fish?

I have been active fishing for quite some time and have found many ways to improve the bite. And here are the most effective ones:

  1. Cool activator. Attracts fish in cold and warm water with the help of pheromones included in the composition and stimulates her appetite. It is a pity that Rosprirodnadzor wants to ban its sale.
  2. More sensitive gear. Reviews and instructions for other types of gear you can find on the pages of my site.
  3. Lures using pheromones.

You can get the rest of the secrets of successful fishing for free by reading our other articles on the site.

  1. One section measuring 460x610 mm;
  2. The second section is 310x610 mm;
  3. The third section is 610x1680 mm.

The side parts are made from parts 310x2440 mm. For props, you should take small bars of 25x50x2400 mm, in total you need three props. To create the bow, it is advised to use a beam, the size of which is 25x76x2400 mm.

For the manufacture of the boat hull, you need to take two bars measuring 25x50x2400 mm. You can fasten them with paracord, after cutting them into several sections.

Parts manufacturing

In order to make parts, you must follow certain rules:

  1. To saw the boards into pieces, use the disc plate.
  2. With a wood thickness of less than 1 cm, it can be cut with a clerical knife.
  3. If the thickness of the board is from 2-6 cm, then the most correct decision would be to use a jigsaw.
  4. To avoid the appearance of cracks in the material, it must be cut across and weakening strips must be carried out on top layer veneer.

fasten wooden details is possible with:

  • wires;
  • self-tapping screws.

If the board is fixed with self-tapping screws, they must not be driven into the material, this may lead to damage to the structure.

First you need to make a hole with a drill right size and then install the screw. When gluing parts, pay attention to the description of the use of the adhesive base, what is the drying time and the rules of work:

  • sweep;
  • degreasing;
  • surface treatment.

You should not forget about the location of the fibers on the two parts of the tree. If they are placed in parallel, the strength of the product will increase several times. Damaged parts should not be used, they are defective and will not be suitable for building a boat.

Boat assembly

After preparing the required parts, you can start assembling a wooden boat with your own hands. This action will require:

  • nails;
  • pins.

To assemble a wooden boat yourself you need:

  1. Install the bottom and secure the left side.
  2. Fix the stern on the left side to the bottom.
  3. Install right side to the bottom and stern.
  4. Fix the nasal area.

To fix the boat with nails, you need to assemble it with an adhesive base. When satisfied with the appearance, the joints should be fixed with nails.

After the frame of the boat is done, it should be painted and polished. The finished product should be polished with smaller roughness and uneven areas. For this process you need:

  • sandpaper;
  • Sander.

With the help of silicone sealant, all the cracks that appeared during assembly should be sealed. In order to ensure that the boat dries evenly and completely, leave it on outdoors. After 24 hours, you need to start coloring the product:

  1. The first layer must be applied on the outside.
  2. The second is inside.

After the paint has dried, you should paint the inside of the boat again.

Boat check

Before sailing a boat for a long distance, you need to check the quality of its assembly. To do this, you need to test the boat at a shallow depth for minor flaws. When they are identified, it is recommended to immediately work on the errors so that you are not afraid of further possible damage.

Making a wooden boat is an easy process. A do-it-yourself device will be no less attractive and will cost much less than a purchased one.

The boat is indispensable vehicle in areas surrounded by water bodies. Also for any fishing lover a good boat is indispensable assistant. To make a boat with your own hands, it will take a lot of time and effort, this also applies to the financial side. However, today there are many materials that allow you to quickly and inexpensively build a watercraft, one of which is foam. The information presented below will help you understand that making a foam boat is quite realistic.

Styrofoam is a fairly versatile material for making various DIY projects.

The polymer from which the foam is made has the form of a foamed mass. Due to this, there is a lot of air between its particles, which allows the material not to sink in water. In addition, the foam has good thermal insulation properties, low weight, high buoyancy due to the large area of ​​the material and lightness. Styrofoam is available to everyone at a cost, and is also easily processed by a tool and glues well. But, this material is easily destroyed, so it cannot be bent and given complex shapes. Therefore, to give strength to a homemade boat, its hull is not made of solid foam, but of a sandwich sheathing, consisting of a layer of foam with glass mat. Sandwich technology lies in the fact that between the two layers of the material that takes on the main load, there is a separating layer of a lighter material. Thus, two layers of fiberglass are separated by foam.

You can use regular extruded polystyrene without fiberglass, but such a homemade foam boat will require sheathing of plywood or other protective material on the outside, such as film or tarpaulin.

Homemade foam boats: drawings


On the Internet you can find a lot various models and drawings

Before you make a boat out of foam, you need to draw up its project. To do this, it is necessary to draw all the components of the future structure with the exact dimensions and shape. Typically the boat is 2.6m long and 0.78m wide at the bottom. The hardest part of the design is making the hull out of parts that don't flex.

It is recommended to make drawings of the boat in full size in order to avoid errors in the calculations and be able to directly mark the details of the hull. The drawing is applied to plywood, the so-called plaza. On the plaza, the details of the boat are drawn, forming a bookmark, or the frame of the vessel - the keel, transom, knobs, stem, sternpost, indicating the width, height, cross section of the keel. To save space on the plazas, you can draw side and half-width projections one on top of the other, marking them with different colors. The projection of the hull should reflect the branches of the frame of both sides - right and left, which are best combined into bow and stern groups.

In order for the quality of the manufactured vessel to correspond to the project, it is necessary to take into account the rules for the location of theoretical lines: these are the lines of the surface of the outer skin, the inner decking, the stern and bow edges of the frames, as well as the edge lines of the carlings and stringers. In more detail, the design of the vessel and the assembly of the drawing can be viewed on the video.

How to make a boat out of foam with your own hands


Foam boat is easy to make

After making the drawing detailed application all elements of the boat, you can begin to assemble the frame. The inner, outer, and main skin will be attached to the skeleton of the boat. It must be durable, because the quality of the craft depends on it. The main skin, made of foam, gives the vessel stability and unsinkability on the water. The elements of the main skin must be tightly glued to each other so as not to let moisture through. The inner lining serves to protect the fragile foam from mechanical damage inside the vessel, and external - from the outside, it must be waterproof and durable.

Frame manufacturing


An important role is played by the frame of the boat

The skeleton of the boat is made of wooden blocks. This is an important part of the design, and it must be strong, rigid and reliable. It is assembled in parts: each component part is measured, and fastened together with screws or nails. To make the frame even more durable, on top of the screw fasteners, you can attach metal corners and plates. The ribs of the frame are made of plywood. When it is assembled, you can start making skins.

Production of the main cladding


Carefully choose epoxy resins

The main plating will make it possible to make sure that the foam boat does not sink with your own hands, but keeps well on the water. For its manufacture, you need to take foam sheets 5-10 cm thick, epoxy glue, a sharp tool for cutting polystyrene foam, as well as measuring instruments.

Measurements of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe frame of the entire boat are applied to the foam sheets. Then they are divided into separate measurements, which will later be collected together. Since the foam cannot be bent, the corner joints are made of three elements. To attach the foam to the frame, you can use epoxy glue, which glues the sheets, as well as nails with wide hats made of flat metal plates.

Fabrication of interior and exterior cladding

The inner skin serves as a protective frame for the main EPS skin. It helps to preserve the integrity of the material from various mechanical influences, including pressure from the weight of a person inside the vessel. Plywood can be used to make the inner lining. First, the area of ​​the inner surface of the vessel is measured. You can sew up the entire area inside the boat completely or just the floor and the lower part of the sides. After taking measurements, they are applied to plywood, after which it separate parts glued to the main skin with epoxy glue. It is necessary to ensure that the plywood does not sag under the weight of a person, damaging the polystyrene foam.

The outer skin must be carried out so that the boat does not damage the bottom or sides of the uneven bottom or other obstacles. In addition, it will create a waterproof surface. To create a protective surface, plywood is glued to those places on the vessel where a hole is most likely to occur, as well as the bow of the boat. The rest of the hull can be covered with a tarpaulin for moisture resistance.

Do-it-yourself foam and fiberglass boat


Fiberglass is easy to buy on the construction market or order online

Homemade foam, pasted over with fiberglass, is made according to the following scheme:

  1. After the project of the future vessel is made, as described earlier, it is necessary to make a model of the boat from plywood. Pieces of this material are cut out based on the elements of the project, glued together using epoxy-based glue (epoxy resin can also be used).
  2. Around the plywood model, polystyrene sheets pre-prepared according to the drawing are glued together. For better adhesion of the joints, they can be cut at an angle of 45 degrees.
  3. The perimeter of the boat is covered with a frame of slats 10x30 mm in size.
  4. The transom and stem must be attached to the plywood model with screws.
  5. Further, the bottom and polystyrene are cut out, glued to the side and end parts, and the load is placed on top. Excess material at the joints must be cut off.
  6. The boards that were fastened with screws are now glued. They were needed so that the polystyrene foam did not dent during gluing. The places of the holes from the screws are sealed with foam.
  7. The surface of the boat is sanded with sandpaper.
  8. Now you need to use fiberglass to glue the hull at the rate of material for 1 layer for the sides and 2 layers for the bottom.
  9. The body needs to be puttied, then cleaned.
  10. WITH inside the hull is also covered with fiberglass, the sides in 1 layer, and the bottom - with a double layer, then puttied and cleaned in the same way as the outer surface of the boat.

A 10x30 mm beam is also attached along the perimeter of the inner side, its fixation is carried out with stainless screws with countersunk heads. A hole is made between the inner and outer fenders, where rectangular bars are inserted from both sides for fastening the sub-keys. Subsequently, a socket made of a metal tube for oarlocks will be welded there. From above, the sides are also pasted over with fiberglass to exclude possible leaks between the bars to the expanded polystyrene. On the bottom, stringers are attached to the screws, covered epoxy resin. The final finishing of the boat made of expanded polystyrene is carried out using an epoxy primer applied in two layers.

A punt boat is a traditional fishing boat that appeared long before the keel counterparts made of PVC and aluminum. Convenient and rather simple, it was used not only for fishing - with its help bulky cargo, people were transported by water. Despite the appearance a large number models of inflatable boats, the punt has not lost its popularity even today. One of the reasons for this is the fact that such a watercraft can not only be purchased, but also made by hand.

In more detail about what a punt is, what it consists of and what types it is, what its pros and cons are, as well as how to make such a boat yourself will be described in this article.

Device

This craft consists of:

  • from two sides (right and left) up to 60–70 cm high;
  • flat bottom reinforced with longitudinal or transverse stiffeners (lamellas);
  • rectangular stern (transom).

To transport people and control the boat, 2–3 benches (banks) are attached between its sides. Various fishing accessories are stored in a box with a lockable lid mounted on the stern. Depending on how many people are planned to be transported on the boat. Its length varies from 2 to 4 meters with a width of 1.0–1.2 meters.

Majority modern models have a pointed or narrowed shape of the bow, due to which such a boat acquires better maneuverability and speed of movement (especially against the current), has less windage in a strong headwind.

You can move on a punt both with the help of oars, and on mounted propeller or jet engines mounted on the stern.

Kinds

Depending on the material for the manufacture of punts, they are of the following types:
Wooden - a classic version of this boat. Are made wooden boats independently from coniferous boards (spruce, pine), plywood. The disadvantage of such boats is their decent weight, which is why anglers who do not have a car with a trailer use such a boat only on a nearby pond.

A wooden boat must be made of boards with a moisture content of not more than 16%, without cracks and falling knots.

Plastic - lightweight and durable factory boats, having a one-piece construction, made of durable and impact resistant polypropylene, fiberglass, ABS plastic. It is impossible to make such a boat on your own. Its price, in comparison with inflatable analogues, is somewhat lower. The disadvantage of such a boat is its fragility at low temperatures and a very difficult self-repair.


Plastic models should be used only in the warm season - in cold weather and frost, their body becomes brittle and easily damaged

Metal - such boats are made of aluminum and duralumin. Such boats in terms of strength and weight are the "golden mean" between wooden and plastic models. Having light weight and constant, independent of air and water temperature, the strength of the hull material, they can be freely used throughout the open water season.


The aluminum punt boat is not suitable for sailing on the sea - the lightweight design is quite easy to capsize in a big wave

Advantages and disadvantages

If you ask yourself which boat is better - keel or flat bottom - then the latter has a number of advantages such as:

  • Stability - due to the large area of ​​\u200b\u200bcontact with the water, a flat-bottomed boat is more resistant to side waves and wind compared to a keel boat;
  • High cross-country ability and carrying capacity - having a small draft, such boats allow transporting up to 5-6 people with a length of 4 m, while moving through shallow water areas;

On a note. By installing an outboard screw motor-swamp vehicle on a punt, you can navigate through overgrown and silty bays and swamps. The design of the unit and the material of manufacture of its screw allows it to grind the grass that comes in its way and not get clogged with dirt.

  • Light weight - plastic and aluminum punts have a weight much less than wooden and some inflatable boats;
  • Ease of manufacture - you can make a punt with your own hands with a minimum set of tools and materials. The cost of such a craft will be significantly lower than the factory model.

The main disadvantage of such a boat is low maneuverability and speed compared to keel boats.


Due to the small draft, the patency of the punt in shallow areas of water is higher than that of any boat or keelboat

DIY punt making

Do-it-yourself punt assembly includes drawing up drawings, purchasing materials, preparing necessary tools, manufacturing of the bottom, sides, stern from the board, their fastening and processing of the structure against decay with antiseptics, resin.

Materials and tools

Required tools:

  • Electric jigsaw.
  • Roulette.
  • Square.
  • Marker.
  • Hammer.
  • Screwdriver.

Of the materials needed dry spruce or pine boards 25–30 mm thick, bars with a section of 50 × 50 mm for cross-beams, nails or galvanized self-tapping screws, resin, tow, waterproof paint.

Drafting

In order to build a punt boat from boards on your own, you must first make understandable and visual drawings (project) of its main parts: sides, bottom, stern (transom). Based on the drawings, the need for materials is calculated: board, plywood, bars for the frame and lamellas.


The drawing of a flat-bottomed boat should be clear and understandable - an error in size in the manufacture of a watercraft will lead to a decrease in its tightness and maneuverability.

Bottom manufacturing

Several boards are placed close to each other, the contour of the bottom is drawn on them with a marker according to the dimensions of the drawing. From the bars, 5 crossbars are made, the length of which is equal to the width of the bottom in the middle, aft and bow parts. With the longest cross member, the laid boards are sewn together in the middle, after which, using a jigsaw or manual circular the bottom is cut out along the outlined contour, leaving sections not cut at the bow and stern.


In the bow and stern, the bottom blank is additionally fixed with boards and a nylon cord.


By tightening the bottom with crossbars, they achieve minimal gaps between its boards

Mounting the bow and stern

After the bottom is sawn to its bow with the help of ragged nails or self-tapping screws, a bar is fastened under a close to a right angle - a bow board. Then, several boards are attached to the back of the bottom, from which the feed (transom) is formed.


close to right angle fastening the bow board will allow you to evenly distribute the force of the oncoming water flow acting on the nose when the boat is moving

Fastening to the bottom of the boards

The first two boards of the right and left sides are first nailed to the bow board, then they are bent along the contour of the bottom and pulled together with a strong cord at the stern. After that, they are attached to the ends of the bottom with nails.


When attaching the first side boards, it is better to fix them at the stern with a strong nylon cord

To fasten subsequent boards, bulkheads are nailed to the bottom parallel to the crossbars.

To prevent the sides from “leading”, the boards of the right and left sides are nailed to the bulkheads at the same time, without first collecting the right or left side completely.


With a boat length of 3.5–4 meters, at least 2 bulkheads are required, to which side boards are sewn

Bottom and side processing

All the cracks in the bottom and between the boards of the sides are caulked with tow. To protect the bottom wood from decay, as well as to prevent leaks, the bottom and sides are well coated with resin.

plywood flatboat

A ring for a chain or a mooring cable is installed in the bow.

A flat-bottomed boat can be made not only from boards, but also from moisture-resistant plywood of the FBS or FSF brands.

A punt boat is made from plywood using a simpler technology than an analogue from boards. First, two boards 30–40 cm high are cut out of a sheet of plywood with a jigsaw in the form of rectangular trapezoids, a rectangular stern and bow. Then, with the help of special glue, the starboard side, then the stern, the left side, and the bow are sequentially attached to a whole sheet of plywood (bottom). In this case, the stern is attached to the bottom at a right angle, and the bow is at a blunt angle (120–130°). All elements, in addition to glue, are fastened together and the bottom with bars located inside the watercraft. After assembly, the outside of the boat is covered with two layers of waterproof paint or resin.

Such a boat, in comparison with that made of boards, has such advantages as low weight, low costs for the purchase of materials, and ease of manufacture.

The following video will tell you more about how such a punt boat is made with your own hands:

On a note. Punts are not only home-made, but also factory-made. Among them, such models as "SAVA" 270, "SAVA" 370, Liman, "Tortilla-2", "Kazanka 6M" are popular. The cost of budget boats is 18,000–20,000 rubles, while the purchase of more spacious premium models will cost 25,000–30,000 rubles.

Thus, a punt boat is a watercraft slightly inferior in its characteristics to keel boats. It is made both from boards and from moisture-resistant plywood. In addition to homemade boats, there is a large selection of factory models of plastic and aluminum punts on sale.

Captain Vrungel believed that whatever you call the ship, it will float. We will not argue with the old, tested sea wolf, but still we will put forward our opinion - how much more carefully and accurately you prepare the drawings of a plywood boat with your own hands, so it will serve you for many years and in any weather. It is the drawings of the vessel that will determine all your further decisions.

It is they who will introduce you to this world of shipbuilding, in which Anglo-Dutch terminology rules. And to understand the terminology of the structural elements of boats, which means successfully reading the proposed drawing, is fundamentally important.


According to the old axiom, start from the stove

Drawings of a homemade plywood boat must necessarily include strict instructions on how to fasten all elements - this is the key issue of the whole structure

Indeed, terminology, if you are rushing into such a bottomless area as building a boat, is of great and decisive importance. We bring to your attention its basics regarding the design of boats, and which appear everywhere on the drawings.

Terminology

Therefore, learn these terms very carefully, they literally permeate any worthwhile drawing of a boat from any material.


In the side view, we note the following structural elements boats, and it is impossible to say which of them is most important, which is less, all elements are required to be used:

  • A - frame. You can choose the option of an ordinary punt, without frames, but when it comes to such an aspiration thrown on the Internet as “do-it-yourself plywood boat drawings”, the reliability and strength of the structure comes out on top. foreground, which means - frames are required;
  • Spacing - the distance between two frames. The most important characteristic is the design of any boat;
  • B - sternpost;
  • C - stem;
  • D - timber
  • E - kilson. A very desirable design element, which, however, is often discarded for boats;
  • F - fender. You cannot do without this element if you are going to make an add-on in the boat. For open models, the fender is not used.
  • I - breshtuk. We strongly advise you not to neglect this element, the strength of the entire structure greatly depends on it.
  • J - book. The knee is also extremely important in ensuring the strength of the boat.
  • K - stringer. It is also an indispensable element if it approaches the construction very carefully.

The top view introduces a few more important terms:

  • A - beam;
  • B - half beam. Goes to full beam if you are not building a superstructure on the boat;
  • C - karengs;
  • D - midelweiss.

The view from the forecastle introduces terms that will be of fundamental importance at a more advanced stage of construction, when it becomes necessary to strengthen the hull of the boat and set the sail and keel, while also improving sailing performance:

  • A - sheet piling;
  • B - keel. Providing a keel weight of 50 percent of the weight of the entire boat, you significantly increase its stability. After all, you never know how the rolling will affect you or future passengers, and a solid supply of sucking sweets and even ginger will do little to prolong the pleasure of being on the water, except to quickly get to the shore;
  • C - steps. Mandatory if you put up a mast;
  • D - sheet pile;
  • E - partners. This is the name of the hole in the superstructure for the passage of the mast. Of course, if you do not have an add-on, then you can forget about partnering for now;
  • F - velvet. Very responsible sheet piling belt at the level of the waterline, water;
  • H - sheerstrake. The topmost sheet pile.
  • G - water level;
  • I - waterway. This element is already an add-on element.

Plywood

The most common material for the manufacture of boats today, of course, is carbon fiber. But this material is the domain of industry. When it comes to independent creativity, such “folk” material as plywood comes to the fore..

Plywood or in other words, wood-laminated board - construction material created by gluing specially crafted veneer. Usually the number of veneer layers is odd and, in any case, more than 3. To increase the strength of plywood, each subsequent layer of veneer is perpendicular to the fibers of the previous layer with its wood fibers. Frames are the foundation of any floating facility. Drawings of plywood boats that claim to be something more than a punt should have a separate option - the location of the frames

Plywood characteristics

When choosing plywood for building a boat, it is very important to choose the right type of plywood.

According to the arrangement of wood fibers on the outer layers, plywood is distinguished:

  • Longitudinal, when the fibers are directed along the long side, and,
  • Transverse - short.

For the construction of a boat, it is better to choose a longitudinal one.
Of course, such an isometric drawing is also possible, but this is the easiest option for the heading “drawings of a plywood boat for free” - there are no frames here, and the work is in many ways similar to assembling a children's designer, except that the details are dozens of times larger

By purpose, plywood is divided into:

  • construction,
  • industrial,
  • packaging,
  • furniture, and
  • structural - this is what we choose for our purposes.

There is also a classification of plywood in relation to the effects of moisture, which is fundamentally important for a boat:

  • FBA is like that, but you should not choose it, it does not meet stringent requirements for moisture resistance;
  • FC - this is the designation of plywood that is sufficiently resistant to moisture;
  • PSF - and so, with increased moisture resistance;
  • FB - impregnated with bakelite varnish, such plywood is considered the most resistant and can be used even in aggressive environments, which is important in our case, and under water;
  • BS - this one is already simply impregnated with bakelite glue. Consider that if such plywood was at your disposal, then 50% of the success of the whole business is guaranteed. Such plywood has been specially used in aircraft and shipbuilding for quite a long time. It happily combines all the qualities necessary for the craftsman's boating business - excellent flexibility, the highest strength, complete water tightness, and also resistance to decay and deoxidation;
  • BV - but let this one not be misleading, it is in many ways similar to BS, but does not have moisture resistance.

Useful advice!
When choosing plywood for building a boat, we advise you to pay attention to laminated plywood.
At the very least, it will be just fine if you use one as a sheet pile or on the outside of the hull if it is a single layer.
This will greatly improve the driving performance of your creation, because water is a medium in which the force of friction plays a significant role.
On the other hand, you shouldn't use laminated plywood inside the boat.
Its slippery surface itself, and even moistened with water, can cause a lot of trouble.

Principal characteristic

When it comes to using plywood for building a boat, the choice of plywood for its quality, determined by the number of knots per square meter of the outer layer, will be fundamental.

There are 5 levels of quality:

  • E - the so-called elite quality, when there are no knots at all. Needless to say, it is always necessary to strive for the choice of just such plywood;
  • Well, then, a straightforward classification of quality - I, II, III and IV. In the latter case, the number of knots is not controlled.
  • I - the maximum length of knots and warpage does not exceed 20 mm;
  • II - cracks no more than 200 mm, wood inserts are permissible, and glue seepage is permissible only on an area of ​​2% of the total sheet area;
  • III - no more than 10 pieces of knots with a diameter of no more than 6 mm. There is even a restriction on the total number of shortcomings - no more than 9;
  • IV - this is the worst quality with even dropped knots and edge defects under 5 mm.

Operating conditions requirements

Most likely, for the construction of a boat you will choose as the most common. There is also birch plywood, but its use is limited by too high a price.

Another thing is very important here - the quality of processing outer surface plywood sheet.

According to this indicator, plywood is distinguished:

  • NSh - unpolished;
  • Ш1 - polished on one side;
  • Ш2 - polished on both sides.

Here, it is fundamental and mandatory to use the sanded side of the plywood on the outer side of the case. It is desirable, for safety reasons, not to use the sanded side on the inside.

Dimensions

natural characteristic any sheet of plywood is its size.

The industry, according to standards, produces sheets of the following four sizes:

  • 1525 x 1525 mm;
  • 1220 x 2440 mm;
  • 1500 x 3000 mm;
  • 1525 x 3050 mm.

Your choice will largely depend on the size of the boat.

Useful advice!
All the given characteristics of plywood must be indicated in the specification of the boat drawings.
In no case do not agree to purchase the proposed drawings of the boat, if they are not accompanied by a detailed explanatory note describing all the nuances of manufacturing, and most importantly, the choice of the type of plywood.
The drawings shall indicate the degree of processing of the outer sides of the hull.
In this connection grinding machine will be one of the most sought after in your work.

conclusions

Building a boat is an exciting creative process for people who still like to live, who are not afraid to experiment and have a design streak. (see also) But, on the other hand, you should not reinvent the wheel, be sure to get acquainted with all the photo materials, study the terminology and various Constructive decisions.

Set yourself up for possible reworking of bad decisions. Know how to "talk to yourself" and communicate with experienced craftsmen. Only in this case is the success of the whole enterprise called “do-it-yourself plywood boat building” possible.

In the presented video in this article you will find Additional information on this topic.

From ancient times to the present day, one of the integral parts of the development of mankind has been the craft of a fisherman. The first intelligent creatures fished with their hands, relying only on their dexterity, and with the development of the mind and human abilities, certain devices and tools appeared (from a sharpened stick, which pricked fish in shallow water, to modern high-class rods and reels), which made it possible to catch more fish and faster.

One of the most significant inventions of mankind is the creation of swimming facilities that have progressed from an ordinary raft of tree trunks fastened together to comfortable yachts and cruise ships.

The simplest boat, invented back in initial stage development of shipping, is in demand even now, because millions of men and women, experiencing primitive excitement, spend hours and even days on fishing, which is great view active and useful rest.

Also, the boat is an excellent means of cultural pastime - isn't it great to take a walk before going to bed on a rowing boat on the lake near the dacha to the singing of birds and the splash of fish that came out to the evening zhor? This type of relaxation will be an excellent sedative for the nerves and a way to immerse yourself in yourself and your thoughts.

Unfortunately, good boats often have a very high price, which not everyone can afford. And if the boat is not used so often, then there is no point in such large costs.

Fortunately, there are many types of this individual watercraft, which (with a certain perseverance and responsibility in the approach) are quite easy to assemble with your own hands from not the most scarce materials. This article will be devoted specifically to collecting your own boat with your own hands.

Boat types

Boats, depending on the design, immersion depth, hull shape, motive power and material of manufacture, are of various types.

The main types of boats by type of material:

  • rubber (inflatable);
  • metal;
  • wooden;

According to the type of driving force, there are three main types of boats:

  • rowing (oar);
  • motor;
  • sailing.

Boats are also divided into types according to the type of construction:

  • dugout boats - hollowed out (or scorched) from a tree trunk;
  • composite boats - assembled from two or three or more parts;
  • frame - a rigid structure is covered with sheathing (tarpaulin, wood, bark, plywood).

And finally, boats differ in the type of landing on the water:

  • flat-bottomed;
  • round bottom;
  • keeled.

What kind of boat will we build

We will focus on the construction of a plywood frame flat-bottomed boat, in view of the fact that the materials necessary for the construction of such a vessel are not in short supply and are readily available. In addition, such a boat will cost us quite cheaply, which will be an indisputable plus.

A flat-bottomed boat is very convenient in its operation, its flat bottom allows you to move even in shallow water - you can start your voyage from the very shore and make it even along small forest rivers. Even a flat bottom provides the boat with reliable stability on the water, and the material of manufacture provides good buoyancy.

The construction of a framed plywood flat-bottomed boat:

The flatboat has a very simple design, which attracts people who want to assemble a boat with their own hands.

Its design includes:

  • a frame assembled from frames (transverse ribs of the boat) and a keel beam (a longitudinal beam running in the center and forming a keel - a kind of ship's spine) - a set of a ship;
  • sheathing (in our case, plywood).

In shipbuilding, each part has its own specific name, which is not recommended to be confused. Let's get acquainted with a few of them - so as not to lose face when discussing your finished boat with a professional boat builder, to whom you may decide to brag about your success.

Construction details and their dimensions - what you need


  • on the sides - 5 millimeters;
  • on the bottom - 6 millimeters.
  • hammer;
  • hacksaw;
  • jigsaw;
  • chisel;
  • plane;
  • sandpaper;
  • meter;
  • ruler;
  • building pencil;
  • plumb;
  • level;
  • epoxy glue.

Workplace preparation


Starting a workflow

So, on the slipway or on your floor, in the grooves on the fixed crossbars, a keel beam is installed, prepared according to the drawing of the boat that we are going to build in advance. the implementation will not be difficult - just estimate the dimensions of the desired boat and compare it with the dimensions indicated above, as well as think over your unique shape, guided by the knowledge gained from the previous paragraphs.

Rough installation of frames

Installing stringers

After the epoxy glue has dried, similar operations should be carried out first with the cheekbones, and then with the bottom stringers.

Preparing the frame for sheathing

The frame of the boat is almost ready. Now it needs to be prepared for plating. Preparation consists in removing all protrusions and roughness with a planer and sandpaper, for streamlining. Stringers should not protrude beyond the edge of the frames, stem and transom. It is necessary to control the quality of preparation for sheathing using thin rails, bending around the sides of the future boat and checking how tightly it fits to all parts of the structure.

The implementation of the next stage of the construction of the boat will determine the entire success of your enterprise. Sheathing is one of the most critical steps in building your small boat. The plating of a flat-bottomed boat should be carried out in the sequence: first the bottom, then the sides. The plating is carried out with plywood sheets as much as possible big size, pre-treated from the inside with drying oil in several layers. Avoid seams as much as possible. If this is not possible, then glue the joints with reverse side strips of the same plywood, of considerable width.

Additionally, from the inside, the lining can be smeared with building varnish after mounting on the frame. After complete drying and careful inspection, you need to carefully sand the surface.

Boat painting


That's it, your boat is ready. Behind hard work, and right in front of you is your brainchild, created by your own hands. Now it remains to collect fishing rods, dig up worms, lower the boat (light enough, as it is sheathed with plywood) into the water and hit the road or at least for a short walk. But it is important to leave one piece of advice in this article - never forget about your own safety. There is nothing more valuable human life, and no successfully caught fish will pay for it. Fill the free space in the bow of the boat and between the frames with foam or plastic containers. If you have, then put on a life jacket.
We also need plywood for sheathing with a thickness of:

  • on the sides - 5 millimeters;
  • on the bottom - 6 millimeters.

Among other things, you will need tools. Their list:

  • hammer;
  • hacksaw;
  • jigsaw;
  • chisel;
  • plane;
  • sandpaper;
  • meter;
  • ruler;
  • building pencil;
  • plumb;
  • level;
  • epoxy glue.

After preparing the necessary structural details, you can begin to assemble the frame.

Workplace preparation

To begin with, you need a slipway - this is a flat wooden shield measuring 3.5 meters by 1 meter, which is necessary for installing the keel beam and subsequent assembly of the frame. The floor of your workshop is also suitable as a slipway, on which you need to firmly fix the keel with the help of bars with grooves.

The tool should always be at hand. Workplace should be comfortable and clean.


Frame assembly, instructions and assembly order

Starting a workflow

So, on the slipway or on your floor, in the grooves on the fixed crossbars, a keel beam is installed, prepared according to the drawing of the boat that we are going to build in advance.

I would like to note that the drawing must be made carefully and thoughtfully, but despite this, its implementation will not be difficult - just estimate the dimensions of the desired boat and compare it with the dimensions indicated above, and also think over your unique shape, guided by the knowledge obtained from the previous points.

Rough installation of frames

The frames are installed with temporary fasteners that are convenient for you on a pre-marked keel beam, taking into account the fact that the zero frame, consisting only of a transom (with a groove prepared for the keel beam) and its fastening in the form of a wooden corner, is attached in relation to the vertical plane of 10 degrees.

Installation of frames in prepared grooves

The frames (with grooves prepared on their outer side for the keel and fenders, as well as for the stringers), set according to the plumb line and level, are installed on the keel beam using nails / screws and epoxy glue.

Installing stringers

The stringers are installed in the same way as the keel beam - in pre-prepared grooves of the frames and fixed with epoxy glue and nails / screws.

The order of installation of stringers is as follows:

  • zygomatic stringers (located at the junction of toptimber and floortimber);
  • bottom stringers located symmetrically to the keel beam at a distance of ½ from the keel to the bilge stringers;
  • side stringers (located slightly above ½ of the height of the top-timbers).

Fixation of stringers and stem

Probably the most difficult procedure when assembling a boat, since in order to fit the stringers to the stem (bow of the boat), they will need to be bent and securely fixed.

This procedure is carried out as follows: after fitting and installing the stem on the keel beam in a grooved way, it is necessary to wait for the epoxy glue to dry completely, and then mark the grooves on the stem, cut them out and fit the side stringers to them, fixing in the standard way.

After the epoxy glue has dried, similar operations should be carried out first with the cheekbones, and then with the bottom stringers.

Preparing the frame for sheathing

The frame of the boat is almost ready. Now it needs to be prepared for plating. Preparation consists in removing all protrusions and roughness with a planer and sandpaper to give a streamlined look. Stringers must not protrude beyond the edge of the frames, stem and transom.

It is necessary to control the quality of preparation for sheathing with the help of thin rails, bending around the sides of the future boat and checking how tightly it fits to all parts of the structure.

Attention! Poor preparation of the boat for sheathing will inevitably lead to leaks as a result of a loose fit of the sheathing to the frame. Sheathing: The most important thing is the bottom and sides of the boat.

The implementation of the next stage of the construction of the boat will determine the entire success of your enterprise. Sheathing is one of the most critical steps in building your small boat. The sheathing of a flat-bottomed boat should be carried out in sequence: first the bottom, then the sides.

Sheathing is carried out with plywood sheets of the largest possible size, pre-treated from the inside with drying oil in several layers. Avoid seams as much as possible. If this is not possible, then glue the joints on the reverse side with strips of the same plywood, of considerable width.

In no case should the joints be run along the frames - it is better between them. Carefully work out each joint with epoxy glue or other sealing methods. Fix with screws. The attachment points are also carefully worked out with epoxy.

Additionally, from the inside, the lining can be smeared with building varnish after mounting on the frame. After complete drying and careful inspection, you need to carefully sand the surface.

Boat painting

Painting a boat is a simple matter, it all depends on your tastes and creativity. But since your brand new boat is covered in plywood, it's best to paint it with a thick layer of epoxy paint, which can be found at any hardware store. Epoxy paint will not only look good, but will also make the boat even more airtight.


That's it, your boat is ready. Behind hard work, and right in front of you is your brainchild, created by your own hands. Now it remains to collect fishing rods, dig up worms, lower the boat (light enough, as it is sheathed with plywood) into the water and hit the road or at least take a short walk.

But it is important to leave one piece of advice in this article - never forget about your own safety. There is nothing more precious than human life, and no successfully caught fish will pay for it. Fill the free space in the bow of the boat and between the frames with foam or plastic containers.

If you have it, put it on. And never go out on the water in a strong wind.
Happy sailing!