The interior decoration of the room begins with plastering the walls and ceiling or installing drywall. Plasterboard installation, as an alternative to plastering walls, guarantees the formation of a perfectly flat surface, which is especially important if the irregularities are too large to be leveled with plaster.

At the same time, drywall - although there is a special moisture resistant one - is afraid of dampness, leaks, and is not designed for heavy loads (many bookshelves better not hang). The editors of the publication understand all the intricacies of the drywall installation process.

Installation of drywall on walls: technology

Advantages:

1. work is dry and less dusty;
2. GKL - breathable and heat-retaining coating;
3. installation of a plasterboard wall or ceiling allows you to create structures of various shapes - a decorative basis for a fine finish and decorate rooms with an unusual layout (attic).

Exist various ways GKL installation, the installation procedure for each is slightly different. One of the principles of classifying methods is crate. Its presence or absence, from what and how to make the crate - all this affects the material and labor costs for leveling the walls.

IMPORTANT! Mounting drywall using metal structures is the most common method. The steel profile guarantees the strength of the frame. Errors in the installation of the batten are one of the causes of cracks in the finish and can lead to the dismantling of drywall. Therefore, it is very important to set the profiles correctly.

First, let's decide what is needed to build a wall of materials and what tools to work with.

IMPORTANT! Most often, a profile of two main sizes is used: D - to form a plane on which the GKL will be fixed; W - to build a common wall frame.

Installation of drywall on walls using metal profiles

Marking for the frame

With the help of a paint cord, a line is marked on the floor, which will be the border of the frame. With the help of a plumb line, level and cord pencil, the line is transferred to the ceiling. Strictly vertical lines are marked on the walls along which the racks will be mounted. The step between them must be observed so that the joints of the GKL sheets during installation fall in the middle of the rack profiles. Usually the pitch between the axes of the profiles is 600 mm.

Mounting guides

Step 1 - Mounting the frame for fixing the plasterboard

The horizontal guides of the profile from the side that will be adjacent to the base are pasted over with a special sealant - a tape that will provide sound insulation. Then, holes are drilled in the bases with a puncher, into which dowels are inserted, and the profile with insulation is attached to them with self-tapping screws.

In order for the guides to hold the GKL firmly, a pitch of 500-1000 mm is selected between the screws, but one section of the profile must be attached to the base in at least three places.

Suspension mount

Along the vertical lines marked on the walls, like the guides, hangers are attached, which will additionally provide structural rigidity.

Mounting racks

According to the markings on the walls, vertical racks are inserted into the horizontal rails. It must be remembered that the open side of the rack should be located sideways or look at the wall. First, the rack is inserted into the rail on the floor, then on the ceiling. The rack is attached with screws to the guides and to the suspensions.

Drywall installation

Proper installation of GKL sheets should be carried out by several people. Two hold the sheet, and the third fastens it to the profile with self-tapping screws. Fastening starts from above, the distance between the screws is not more than 25 cm. The seams between the sheets should not press each other, so they are mounted with an offset. The installation of columns and other complex elements is carried out according to the same principles: the desired shape is achieved due to the incision of the profile and the GKL sheet.

Step 5 - Fastening the GKL to the frame using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver

Cutting holes for sockets and switches

Scheme 1 - GKL installation using metal profiles: one of the possible options

The use of wooden crates is used less often - the tree is afraid of moisture. Installation instructions for wooden rails practically do not differ from the installation of a metal profile. The frame is marked, then wooden racks and spacers are attached to the walls with dowels. Then they check how even the frame is. GKL sheets are attached in the same way as on the profile: the joints should fall into the center of the rails.

How to stick drywall?

Step 6 - GKL can be fixed on a flat surface using special glue

Mounting GKL on glue is the fastest method, but applicable only on a relatively flat surface - with differences of no more than 20 mm. This method is the most sparing to the space of the room - it takes up the least space, the GKL sheets fit snugly against the wall. The marked sheets are attached to the cleaned primed surface of the walls or to 10-centimeter plasterboard strips (on Perlfix glue). To do this, the drywall sheets themselves also need to be primed.

Step 7 - You can fix the drywall after the wires and noise insulation are laid

Depending on the relief of the surface, the adhesive is applied evenly along the perimeter and along the middle of the sheet using a notched trowel or small cakes with any suitable trowel.

IMPORTANT! For greater reliability, after the glue has hardened, the GKL sheets can be fixed with dowel-nails.

IMPORTANT! Gluing drywall is carried out after careful marking, identifying bumps and bulges, determining a single level at which all sheets will be leveled.

There are different options for how to stick drywall, in addition to that described above. And they are distinguished not only by technology, but also by the adhesive material. For example, some use a drywall sticker on mounting foam. The instructions for mounting on foam are somewhat different than working with glue. Here, the GKL sheets are screwed to the wall with long screws, after which mounting foam is pumped under it through the holes in the sheet.

Do-it-yourself drywall installation: step-by-step video instructions

Tools, materials and accessories for installation

Scheme 2 - Tools for mounting GKL

Depending on the installation method, you may need:

• For marking: level, plumb line, pencil, paint cord, tape measure. It is easy to mark up using a laser plane builder.
• For installation: knife, metal shears, screwdriver, puncher, hammer, spatulas, stepladder, devices for cutting excess material from the edges, cutting holes.
• Materials and components: GKL, which has the necessary parameters (for example, moisture resistant); steel profiles: guides and racks, metal hangers and connectors for their fastening, wooden slats, dowels, self-tapping screws, screws, washers, glue, foam.
• It is convenient to use a mounting gun (gas construction gun SPIT Pulsa 700P) for fastening the gypsum board with dowel-nails.

Installation secrets: how to cut drywall?

It is necessary to cut the GKL special knife. How to cut the sheet evenly: use a long rail, cut the paper along it, press on one side of the sheet (the gypsum core will break) and cut the bottom layer of paper with a knife.

Drywall cutting in large volumes can be done with a special cutter. The edge of the cut sheets should be made at an angle to increase the area of ​​​​the seams, which will be puttied in the future. To do this, a line is marked at a distance of 5 mm from the edge and excess material is cut obliquely.

Drywall insulation

Often rooms require insulation, especially for a balcony or loggia. As a heater under the GKL, glass wool or mineral wool is usually used. Work with insulation is carried out at the stage when the crate is installed, but the sheets are not yet attached.

Wiring under drywall

Wiring under drywall must be completed before its installation and insulation. The wiring is installed when the crate is installed. It is necessary to lay wires behind drywall in a metal hose or corrugation made of non-combustible plastic. Full electrical wiring is carried out on the walls and ceiling.

When installing GKL sheets, holes are cut out for socket boxes and wiring leading to the fixtures. Corresponding wires are pulled through the holes.

IMPORTANT! Socket boxes can be mounted immediately after the installation of the drywall, and the installation of sockets, switches, spotlights and chandeliers must wait until all finishing work is completed.

Drywall joints

Sealing joints is an important stage in the formation of a flat surface. It is necessary to properly seal the corners and joints of the gypsum board so that cracks do not appear on them over time. To do this, the joint is puttied, then a reinforcing tape for the joints is laid on top and another layer of putty is applied. At the outer corners of the doorway and window slope it is necessary to install corner profiles on the putty. The places where the screws are screwed in are also puttied.

Step 10 - View after puttying all the seams and attachment points of the GKL

After the putty dries, all the places treated with it must be thoroughly passed with a grater. If the surface is not smooth enough, then it is necessary to completely putty the walls and, after drying, pass with a grater.

Finishing work with drywall

After carrying out the above manipulations, a pertinent question arises: how to prime the GKL and should it be primed? Definitely necessary. If the next step is painting water-based paint, then the primer can be done with paint diluted with water in a ratio of 3: 1.

Step 12 - Finished work after painting the frame

Technology for working with other coatings, such as wallpaper or decorative plaster, requires the use of special primers recommended by manufacturers for topcoating. Do-it-yourself processing of a drywall surface is facilitated due to the fact that the coating is very even.

IMPORTANT! How to work with drywall - paint, plaster or wallpaper - can be found in the instructions for the selected finishing materials.

Tile on drywall: laying technology + video step by step instructions

A special type of finishing is laying tiles on drywall. GCR is an undesirable base for tiles. But if it is used under a tile, then it should be a special moisture-resistant drywall, laid in two layers and primed several times. In addition, when mounting drywall under a tile, the step between the rack profiles needs to be done less.

drywall installation cost

GKL installation price:

• price in Moscow - an average of 300 rubles / sq.m;
• in Kyiv - from 65 UAH/sq.m.

This sheet material is currently the most popular in cladding internal partitions, and the installation of a plasterboard wall is the simplest and most productive in construction. Therefore, it makes sense to consider what wall cladding with this material is in more detail.

Room layout

The first step prior to the start of construction work is the layout of the premises. If a decision is made to perform the installation of drywall for surface finishing, some points should be taken into account.

The standard dimensions of sheets of this material are 1200 - 1300 x 2500 - 4800 mm with a thickness of 6.5 to 24 mm. At the same time, almost every size is intended to perform its specific task.

To reduce the labor intensity of work, reduce the consumption of fasteners and maximize the effective cutting of material, these data should be taken into account when planning the room. For example, the ceiling height is considered comfortable at 2.5 meters, which corresponds to the size of the sheet. Often this parameter is taken as 2.53, we will indicate the reasons below. Similarly, the width of the premises is desirable as a multiple of an integer number of sheets. Or a multiple of half the size, then cutting the material will be optimal.

When determining the size of the premises, it is also necessary to take into account the thickness of the internal walls and partitions, since this factor will also affect the cutting of the material. This means that we are moving on to a deeper detail - to determining the dimensions of the crate and the selection of materials for its manufacture. And behind each such detail lies the amount of labor intensity and financial costs.

Types of drywall

Based on the properties laid down by the developers in such building materials, the GKL is divided into the following types:

• ordinary drywall. It consists of a layer of gypsum dough and a cardboard coating on both sides, used for finishing rooms with humidity within the normal range. It is widely used because of the convenience in operation, good machinability, light weight and economy;
• GKL with fire-resistant characteristics. It is convenient to use for utility rooms such as summer kitchens and other non-residential premises. Can be used near heaters, stoves and fireplaces;
• moisture-resistant drywall, allowing its use in indoor conditions with high humidity- baths, bathrooms, toilets and others. Thanks to the use of special additives, it is protected from the effects of fungus and mold. Ideal for finishing country houses, where humidity is usually higher than in city apartments;
• fire - moisture resistant material, which is almost universal.

According to the purpose, drywalls are divided into the following categories:

• arched - with a thickness of up to 6.5 mm, allowing large deformations in several planes at the same time, such properties are also given to it by reinforcing additives of the fibrous structure;
• ceiling - thickness up to 9.5 mm, lightweight design;
• wall - for wall decoration and installation of partitions, thickness 12.5 mm.

With this thickness, which is the most popular, the weight of a standard sheet of 1.2 x 2.5 meters is 30 kg.

Drywall tool

The material does not have high mechanical properties and is easy to process a simple tool. In this case, you can use the following tool:

• saw - hacksaw for wood. Purpose - sawing drywall sheets into parts during installation;
• circular saw - for making long straight cuts when cutting;
• electric jigsaw - sawing parts of complex shape according to the markup;
• construction knife - trimming the edges of parts after sawing;
• tape measure - measurements when marking and cutting;
• construction plumb line - control of the position of the sheet in space during installation;
• carpentry level - the same;
• electric drill - drilling holes for fasteners;
• screwdriver - installation of fasteners when fixing drywall parts, assembling a frame from metal profiles;
• a set of spatulas, including narrow, medium, wide, angled metal and rubber;
• paint brush - for applying a primer;
• foam roller - for the same purpose;
• nozzle on a drill for stirring dry mixtures;
• sandpaper No. 4 or No. 5;
• mixing container.

This is the main set of tools with which alignment, priming, and decorative trim drywall walls.

In addition, you will need materials:

• primer - to strengthen the surface of the walls;
• acrylic putty - repair and preparation of the surface of gypsum boards for the application of the main leveling layer;
• tape - fiberglass sickle;
• drywall fasteners - self-tapping screws of a special shape;
• insulation for laying under sheets of drywall during the construction of partitions for the purpose of insulation and sound insulation;
• GKL of various sizes, including a thickness of 6.5 mm - for creating spatial forms of parts; 9.5 mm thick - for ceilings; 12.5 mm thick - for wall cladding, up to 24 mm thick - for flooring with a dry screed.

Assembling a wall from plasterboard

To build a wall from this material, you will first need to build a base for it - metal or wooden frame for drywall. The choice of material for the wall is not an idle question. With the seeming benefit of using wood, here the developer faces many difficulties associated with the properties of the material:

• the need for antiseptic treatment of each part, which will help get rid of the risk of developing rot or fungal diseases. Fire treatment, especially if hidden wiring will be laid inside the frame, which most often happens. In addition to working off wood, electrical installation must be placed in a flexible corrugated hose made of special materials;
• careful selection of material on the basis of straightness and absence of helical deformations;
• change in the size of parts with fluctuations in the humidity regime in the room, which is especially important for suburban buildings with periodic visits, resulting in warping of the frame and swelling of the wall surface.

All these difficulties will inevitably require, in addition to material costs, also a large amount of time.

All these shortcomings are deprived of metal frames made of galvanized steel in the form of bent perforated profiles.

Several of their types are produced, designed to perform various structural elements:

1. Ceiling profiles, referred to as CD, with cross-sectional dimensions of 60 x 27mm.
2. Ceiling guide profiles CW 28 x 27 mm.
3. Rack, UD - 50 x 50, 75 x 50 and 100 x 50 mm.
4. Guide profiles with dimensions 50 x 40, 75 x 40, 100 x 40 mm.

The standard length of the profile guides is 3 meters, ceiling and rack - 3 or 4 meters.

As auxiliary parts, U-shaped straight hangers are produced for connecting ceiling and CD profiles.

In addition, you will probably need corner framing profiles and, possibly, arched ones.

The metal profile frame for the wall begins with marking its location. It is made on the floor, and then transferred to the ceiling with a plumb line and a paint cord, which will ensure the strict verticality of the structure.

The installation of a wall or partition must begin with the creation of a frame, while using profiles UW guides and rack CW.

The fastening of the base parts must be carried out in increments of at least 60 cm.

When choosing the spacing of the racks, it should be remembered that the dimensions of the drywall sheet are a multiple of 600 mm, so the racks are set, focusing on this parameter. Attention! At the location of the door on the floor, you need to break the frame.

• on one side of the frame, you need to stretch the vapor barrier film, for which a polyethylene film with a thickness of about 200 microns is used. It is pulled over the frame and fixed with construction tape;
• you need to understand how to fix a sheet of drywall. Important! To perform this work, self-tapping screws of a special design are used.
• Pay attention to the shape of the screw head. It allows, without destroying the surface of the coating, to fix the sheet flush.
• in a similar way, install the remaining parts of the wall sheathing on one side, making a cutout under the doorway;
• the openings between the racks must be filled with insulation, which simultaneously acts as a soundproof device. Otherwise, the double hollow wall will act as a resonator, amplifying sounds. For this purpose, various materials are used, both slab (min-plate) and rolled, such as isover, an insulation device of more than 2 layers will entail the need for a three-dimensional frame. Wall insulation and soundproofing device will allow living to be quite comfortable;
• before sheathing the second side of the frame, you need to install a second layer of vapor protection, acting in the same way as for the first side;
• drywall sheets are sewn over the vapor barrier with screws with a diameter of 6 or 8 mm. Their installation is carried out with a step of at least 250 - 300 mm. Therefore, performing this operation manually with a screwdriver is not possible; you cannot do without a screwdriver.

Attention! Cutting of galvanized frame profiles must be done manually with a broom saw. The use of a manual grinder burns out the protective layer, subsequently the metal in this place will actively corrode. After cutting, the end face must be painted over with a special protective paint, 85% consisting of finely dispersed metallic zinc.

Alignment of walls with drywall

Often, during construction or repair, planning the surface of a wall or partition is much easier to do using GKL than with plaster. Usually this is also done using a frame, when drywall is attached to the wall on the profile. Before attaching the profile to the wall, you need to determine the point of its closest location to the wall and install the floor and ceiling guides. Then the installation of racks will not cause problems, since all of them are already structurally distant from the walls.

As a result of the work performed, a smooth wall is obtained and it remains only to prepare its surface for applying the finishing coating.

There is a way to level the wall with drywall without a frame. It should be noted that the surface quality of the base must be sufficiently high. Before attaching drywall to a wall without profiles, you need to carefully remove all protrusions that may interfere with this. Installation technology can be as follows:

• attach a piece of plasterboard to the wall and drill mounting holes. At the same time, traces from the drill will remain on the base surface, which will be marks for the mounting holes;
• remove the part and drill holes for installing plastic inserts using these marks;
• apply a cement or gypsum-based adhesive to the wall, level with a comb trowel. You can also use polyurethane glue;
• install the part in place, fix it with screws.

Knowing how to glue drywall to the wall, you can easily cope with the rest of the coating elements.

Surface putty

For the final preparation of the plane of the walls for the finishing coating, its finishing with putty is used. It is done like this:

• primer with the recommended composition, gluing corners and joints with sickle;
• applying the primary layer of putty, sanding after drying;
• finishing the surface with the finishing composition of the putty, drying, grinding;
• thorough cleaning of the surface of the walls and the entire room from dust;
• finishing primer of walls for final coating.

Knowing how to make a drywall wall, any developer can handle this task on their own. It is only necessary to use the information received here correctly.

At the same time, invited experts will perform this work at a price of 600 to 800 rubles per square meter. However, in any case - good luck to you!

19414 0 7

How to install drywall on the wall yourself - 4 stages of rough wall finishing

To date, drywall is one of the most popular types of materials intended for interior construction and interior decoration of residential and commercial premises. However, not everyone knows how to properly mount drywall on walls, so in this article I want to pay more attention technical description this simple process.

Classification of drywall sheets

Gypsum board is a composite sheet finishing material, which consists of two outer layers of thick cardboard, and an inner intermediate layer of mineral gypsum aggregate.

The composite construction of the sheet provides this material with high rigidity and sufficient strength, and the outer layer of the cardboard forms a uniform matte surface, which can be considered an ideal basis for applying a finishing coating ( acrylic paint, decorative plaster, wallpaper, etc.).

Depending on the raw materials and mineral components used, all drywall sheets can be conditionally divided into several types:

1. The usual drywall sheet for general construction works has the nomenclature name GKL. It is designed for interior decoration of ceilings and walls, as well as for the construction of light interior partitions in residential and office space with normal room temperature and relative humidity not more than 70%. The outer cardboard coating of such sheets is gray, and the factory lettering is dark blue;
2. Moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboard with the nomenclature name GKLV is intended for finishing walls and ceilings indoors with normal temperatures and high humidity. To increase moisture resistance, the outer coating of such sheets is made of special impregnated cardboard, and antifungal additives with silicon particles are introduced into the gypsum aggregate. For visual distinction, the outer surface of the GKLV has a light green color, and the factory marking is applied in dark blue;

1. Fire-resistant drywall sheets have the nomenclature designation GKLO, and are characterized by increased resistance to short-term exposure to direct open flame or high temperature. Such qualities are achieved by introducing non-combustible reinforcing fibers into the composition of the gypsum core, and by impregnating the outer cardboard with a flame retardant composition. The outer coating of fire-resistant sheets has the usual gray color, and the factory lettering is applied in red;
2. Moisture-proof fire-resistant drywall is designated as GKLVO, and combines all at the same time specifications and operational qualities of GKLO and GKLV, respectively. Such material has a rather narrow scope, since its price is significantly higher than the cost of other types of drywall. In order not to be confused with other sheets, its surface is painted light green, and the letter factory marking is applied in red.

Despite the fact that GKLV is considered moisture resistant, it cannot long time resist direct contact with water, so it cannot be installed outdoors, or used for finishing wet rooms with direct water on the walls and ceiling (shower room, washing room or steam room in the bath).
The same warning applies to GKLO: despite its fire resistance, I strongly do not recommend using this material in conditions of prolonged exposure to high temperatures or direct contact with an open flame.

The working process

Stage 1: selection and calculation of materials

The calculation of the required number of drywall sheets should be carried out based on the net area of ​​\u200b\u200ball the walls in the room. To calculate the net area of ​​each individual wall, you must first multiply its length by its height. Then, in the same way, calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwindow and doorways on this wall (if any). After that, the resulting area of ​​door and window openings must be subtracted from the total area of ​​​​the wall, and the net area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wall should be obtained.

The table shows the technical characteristics of drywall sheets.

When calculating the amount of materials, it should be borne in mind that the width of any drywall sheet is always 1200 mm, and its standard length can be 2000 mm, 2500 mm, 2700 mm or 3000 mm. It should also be taken into account that in the process of work there are always trimmings, and some part of the material goes into marriage, therefore, when buying drywall and all components for its installation, you need to lay a small margin (5-8%).

Based on the classification of drywall sheets discussed in the previous section, when choosing a specific type of drywall, I advise you to adhere to the following recommendations:

1. For wall decoration in living and sleeping areas of a private house or apartment (bedroom, nursery, living room, corridor), you can use any of the above types of drywall. In the same time, I recommend using ordinary GCR for these purposes, since it has a lower cost;

1. When performing repairs in rooms with a high level of air humidity (toilet, bathroom, unheated attic or veranda), I advise you not to save money and buy moisture-resistant GKLV drywall. In addition to the fact that it does not collapse under the influence of moisture, its surface is less susceptible to the formation and development of mold;
2. For interior decoration of the walls of a home heating station, an autonomous boiler room, an electrical switchboard, and other rooms with a possible short-term increase in temperature or the appearance of an open flame, it is best to use fire-resistant GKLO. This material can also be used for outdoor decorative design stoves and fireplaces, provided that a non-combustible mineral wool insulation is laid between them;
3. GKLVO is more intended for industrial use, but it can also be used in a private house. For example, it is well suited for cladding smoke channel in an unheated attic, or for wall cladding around the furnace door of a sauna stove in a damp, cold dressing room;
4. To install drywall on a supporting frame, you will need to purchase a galvanized metallic profile two types, straight remote brackets, docking "crabs" and self-tapping screws for metal with a hat in a sweat;

1. The horizontal profile "UD" or "PNP" with a section of 28x27 mm is mounted one at the bottom, at the level of the finished floor, and the second at the top, under the very ceiling. The total length of the whips of such a profile should be equal to the double perimeter of the room;
2. Rack profile "CD" "PP" with a section of 27x60 mm is installed vertically from floor to ceiling over the entire wall area, with a step of 600 mm. To find out the total number of such a profile in meters for one wall, you need to divide its length by 0.4, and multiply by the height of the room;
3. When calculating the number of remote brackets, it should be assumed that each rack profile must be mounted on 4-5 brackets;
4. It is difficult to name the number of self-tapping screws offhand, so for a start you can purchase 300-500 pieces, and if necessary, buy more;
5. If you plan to sew walls using frameless technology, then for this you will need to buy a special construction adhesive for drywall. Its consumption per 1 m² of wall area can be viewed on the factory packaging.

The standard thickness of drywall sheets can be 6mm, 9.5mm or 12.5mm. Most thin sheets lend themselves well to bending in an arc, therefore they are used for the manufacture of curly interior details. Medium sheets with a thickness of 9.5 mm have light weight, so they are used when sewing ceilings. For wall decoration, I recommend using sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm, since a lot of weight is not critical for them, and they have the greatest strength.

Stage. 2: preparing tools for work

To perform installation work, you will need the usual set of household tools that any home master should have on the farm. Below I will list them, but you will need to adjust it yourself, depending on which installation method is more suitable for you.

1. To install a metal supporting frame, you will need an electric puncher with a set of drills from 6 to 10 mm, a hacksaw or scissors for metal, a grinder with cutting discs for metal and a cordless screwdriver;

1. If you opted for a wooden frame, then for its manufacture you will need the same tools, only instead of a grinder and a hacksaw, you need to use an electric cut-off saw or hand saw on wood;
2. When attaching drywall to the supporting frame, you will need to twist a large number of self-tapping screws. To completely mechanize this process, I recommend using a special screwdriver nozzle, which automatically feeds the screws into the screw head;
3. For frameless installation of drywall on the wall, the adhesive solution will have to be prepared by hand, directly at the installation site. To do this, you will need a metal or plastic container with a volume of 10-12 liters, as well as a construction mixer or a nozzle on a drill for preparing dry building mixtures;

1. From hand tools you will need a sharp construction knife with interchangeable blades, a medium hammer, curly and flat screwdrivers, as well as a small hand planer for cutting the edges of the sheets.
2. From the measuring tools you will need a large square, a tape measure at least 5 m long, a laser or liquid building level, a construction cord, a rope plumb line and a thin marker or pencil;
3. To work at height, it is convenient to use an ordinary household stepladder. Its height should be such that a person can freely reach the ceiling with his half-bent arm..

If you prefer frameless installation of drywall to the wall mounting foam, then I advise you to buy it in large metal cylinders, since in such a package it will cost much less. To work with such cylinders, you will need a special gun that allows you to accurately dose the supply and consumption of mounting foam.

Stage 3: production and installation of the supporting frame

Before starting work, you need to completely free the room from the furniture, and remove the old coating from the wall. If you plan to lay hidden electrical wiring, heating pipes or other communications behind drywall, then this must be done in advance, before mounting the supporting frame on the wall.

Next, I will talk about how to independently install the GKL on the wall with the installation of a metal frame. For those who find it more convenient to mount a wooden frame, I must say that it is made according to the same principle as a metal one, only instead of profiles, wooden bars with a section of at least 50x50 mm are used.

1. After preparing the surface of the walls, first of all, you need to mount the upper and lower horizontal guide profiles around the entire perimeter of the room;

1. The lower U-shaped profile "UD" must be laid on the floor, and fixed with self-tapping screws parallel to the wall, along a stretched building cord;
2. The upper U-shaped profile must be fixed in the same way around the entire perimeter to the ceiling. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the plumb line lowered from the longitudinal center line of the upper profile passes exactly through the longitudinal center line of the lower profile. This will allow in the future to install the plasterboard wall strictly vertically;
3. If the main walls in the room are not very curved, and the lower and upper horizontal profiles are fixed almost close to the wall, then the vertical rack profiles can also be attached directly to the walls;

1. If the walls in the room are curved, and the horizontal profiles are fixed at a large distance from the wall, then for fastening the vertical rack profiles, you will need to use U-shaped remote brackets;
2. To do this, starting from one of the corners, on the walls around the entire perimeter of the room, from floor to ceiling, you need to draw vertical straight lines with a step of exactly 600 mm between them;
3. In each corner of the room, and on each drawn line, 4-5 brackets must be fixed so that the distance from the bottom bracket to the floor, and the distance from the top bracket to the ceiling is 500 mm. The distance between two adjacent brackets should be about 800-1000 mm;
4. Cut the rack profile into the required number of identical segments, the length of which should be equal to the height of the room from the level of the finished floor to the ceiling;

1. Install each segment vertically between the legs of the U-shaped holders, bring the lower and upper ends inside the lower and upper horizontal profile, and fix it to its side walls with self-tapping screws;
2. Next, it must be leveled strictly vertically, and fixed to the side legs of each bracket with two self-tapping screws. Cut the protruding legs with a grinder or metal shears, flush with the front plane of the rack profile;
3. In the same way, you need to mount rack profiles around the perimeter of each door and window opening;
4. Having thus installed all the vertical racks, you need to tie them together with transverse horizontal jumpers from the same profile;

For mounting jumpers, it is convenient to use special “crab” connectors that allow you to join two identical profiles at right angles in the same plane; When installing horizontal jumpers, it should be assumed that the distance between their axes should be within 600-800 mm;

Stage 4: fixing drywall sheets

The technology of mounting drywall on walls is quite simple, however, given that the sheets are large in size and quite heavy, installation work It is more convenient to perform together with a partner. When buying material, it is better to choose such sheet sizes so that it can be installed vertically from floor to ceiling without transverse joints.

1. You need to start installing drywall on the walls from one of the corners of the room. From my experience, I can say that at first it is better to sew up those walls on which the window and front door are located;

1. each sheet must be cut in height to size in place so that it freely, but without gaps, enters the space between the base of the floor and the ceiling;
2. The first sheet can be rested with the bottom side on the floor, and installed in the very corner. At the same time, it is important to control the level so that it is installed strictly vertically in two planes, and its outer side edge runs exactly along the center line of the vertical profile;
3. After making sure that it is in its place, one person should hold it with his hands from displacement, and his partner should fix the drywall to the supporting frame with self-tapping screws in the sweat with a step of 160-210 mm between them;
4. First you need to wrap the screws into a vertical profile around the entire perimeter of the sheet, and then in several places in the middle, into horizontal transverse jumpers;

1. When tightening the self-tapping screws, it is necessary to set the force limiter on the screwdriver so that the cap does not destroy the drywall, and is recessed below the surface of the plate by no more than 1 mm;
2. The next sheet must be installed on the floor in the same way, and pressed with its side edge to the end of the first sheet. After that, make sure that it is installed strictly vertically, it must also be fixed with self-tapping screws;
3. When you reach a door or window opening, one person should put a whole sheet on the place where it should be installed, and his partner at the back of the sheet should draw a cutout for this opening;
4. Next, from this sheet, you need to cut a window opening along the drawn line, and fix it to the wall in exactly the same way. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that cleaning of windows and door slopes performed last, after sewing all the walls;

1. After the drywall is mounted, you need to putty all the fixing screws and joints between the sheets. So that in the future the joints do not disperse from vibration and temperature changes, in the process of puttying they must be reinforced with serpentine glass mesh;
2. After hardening and drying of the starting layer, the surface must be sanded with a medium-grained sandpaper(P80-P100), and if necessary apply another finishing layer putties;
3. Finally, the surface should be sanded again with a finer sandpaper (P80-P100), then dusted off, and coated with one coat of interior penetrating primer.

In order to increase the heat and sound insulation of the room, in the space between the main wall and the drywall sheets, I recommend laying a mineral wool-based roll insulation. For the same purposes, before mounting drywall on the wall, a vibration-proof foam rubber tape must be glued to the front plane of the supporting frame along the entire length.

Frameless installation of drywall sheets

The GKL installation technology described above helps to remove visible building defects from the eyes, and allows you to level even the most crooked walls, but it has one significant drawback. The fact is that the metal profile of the supporting frame itself has a certain thickness, and in some cases, it has to be installed at a considerable distance from the main wall. In the end, after plasterboarding the walls, the room slightly decreases in volume. If this is not so critical for a room with a large area, then in small room such a difference can be very noticeable.

In order to make the most of the usable space, below will be offered a step-by-step instruction in which I will describe three simple ways of frameless installation of drywall for fine wall finishing in small rooms.

1. The easiest way is to glue the sheet to the wall with a special drywall adhesive, which is sold under the brand name "Perlfix". It is produced in the form of a dry construction mixture, and is prepared directly at the place of work. It should be borne in mind that the installation of GKL on glue is allowed with a deviation from the vertical or wall irregularities from 5 to 20 mm.

• First you need to cut all the sheets of drywall into the desired size, try on each of them in its place, then number it and put it aside;
• Treat the cleaned wall and the back plane of each drywall sheet with a special water-based penetrating primer;

• After the primer has dried, apply glue to the back in one of two ways. If the irregularities on the wall are from 5 to 10 mm, it is necessary to apply continuous strips of glue around the perimeter and in the middle, and then smooth and remove its remains with a notched trowel;
• With a depth of unevenness on the wall up to 20 mm, the adhesive must be applied with large round cakes with a diameter of 100-150 mm, along the perimeter and in the middle of the sheet, at a distance of 200-300 mm between them.
• After applying the adhesive layer, each sheet must be pressed against the wall, leveled, and fixed in a fixed position until the adhesive begins to set.

1. If in some places the curvature of the walls reaches 50 mm, for gluing sheets it is necessary to use linings in the form of strips of drywall scraps 150-180 mm wide.

• The strips must be fixed horizontally along the entire length of the wall at a distance of 500-600 mm between them, using the same glue or long self-tapping screws;
• In those places where there are deep dips and depressions on the wall, plasterboard linings must be placed under each strip, and thus align them in a vertical and horizontal plane;
• As in the first case, drywall must be cut to size and processed reverse side and strip penetrating primer;
• Lubricate each strip thickly with adhesive, level it with a notched trowel, then install a drywall sheet in its place, pressing it evenly over the entire area;
• For reliable fixation, several self-tapping screws can be screwed into each strip, directly through the front surface of the sheet.

1. For gluing drywall wooden walls, you can use ordinary polyurethane foam in metal cylinders. After hardening, it has some elasticity, which reduces the likelihood of cracking or deformation of the sheets in the process of shrinkage or swelling of wood.

• The surface of wood in a confined space is prone to mold, therefore, before installation, the entire wall area and the back side of the sheets must be impregnated twice with an antiseptic penetrating primer;
• Fix each sheet of drywall to the wall at a small offset (5-10 mm) by screwing it in several places with self-tapping screws through spacers or wide washers;
• Drill evenly around the perimeter and over the entire area of ​​the sheet through holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm at a distance of 300-400 mm between them;

• Insert a plastic tube from the gun into each hole in turn, and blow out equal amount mounting foam;
• In order to evenly dose the injection of foam into all holes, I advise you to count each pull of the trigger mounting gun by seconds;
• The remnants of mounting foam protruding from the hole do not need to try to catch and push back. After hardening, it is easy to cut it with a knife flush with the front plane of the drywall and sand it with a fine emery cloth.

For gluing drywall, I recommend choosing a mounting foam with a low coefficient of expansion. Otherwise, during the solidification process, it can significantly increase in volume, and form local bumps and irregularities on the plasterboard wall.

Conclusion

Despite all its advantages, the described methods of frameless installation of drywall have three common disadvantages. Firstly, adhesive fastening of sheets can only be used if the walls in the room are relatively even and do not have obvious construction defects, and the deviation from the vertical and height differences are no more than 50 mm.

Secondly, this installation method does not allow heat and sound insulation materials to be laid between drywall and the main wall. And thirdly, such a wall covering cannot be dismantled without destroying the drywall.

A more detailed visual instruction for installing drywall on walls can be seen in the video presented in this article, and if after watching you have questions, I suggest discussing them together in the comment form.

October 28, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

You have decided on your own to make repairs in your apartment or country house. It's time to start thinking about materials. GKL is very well suited for finishing. But the question arises - how to mount drywall on the wall? And in general, is it advisable to choose this material in your case? To begin with, we will deal with the advantages and disadvantages of drywall sheets.

Advantages and disadvantages of plasterboard wall cladding

The very first thing worth mentioning is the versatility and ease of installation. Even if you have never had experience with drywall, you can easily lay drywall on the wall with your own hands. This material can even be bent, which will please those who want not only to decorate the walls, but to create graceful shapes and stunning room design.

Gypsorkaton has a lot of advantages:

• Price. Repair will not be expensive, since drywall is a fairly cheap material. It also does not require special expensive tools. The exception is, which will significantly speed up the progress of work, will allow you to create the perfect edge for joining. But it will cost no more than 1000 rubles.
• Convenience not only in installation, but also transportation (light weight allows you to transport it even to one person without assistance)
• Sheets can not only be bent by wetting with water, but also cut along or across. Both of these qualities allow you to give drywall almost any shape.
• The components of the sheet are plaster and cardboard. Therefore, for environment because it is completely natural
• Using this material, you get excellent sound and heat insulation. This quality is invaluable in high-rise buildings with thin walls and noisy neighbors.
• You can mount it on a wall with little curvature by simply placing it on the adhesive. If the wall has a serious unevenness, then a frame made of a metal profile or wood is used.

Data-lazy-type="image" data-src="https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/gvl-1024x581..jpg 1024w, https://remontcap.ru/wp- content/uploads/2017/09/gvl-300x170..jpg 1418w" sizes="(max-width: 620px) 100vw, 620px">

What are the disadvantages of drywall? The only serious one is the fear of moisture. But on sale there are many varieties of drywall, which should be chosen based on where the installation will be carried out, including moisture-resistant drywall. Also, a special water-repellent primer will help fight moisture.

What kind of GKL sheet should you choose? When decorating bedrooms or a living room, you should not bother and buy ordinary sheets, while you will save money. If you have to mount the sheathing in the kitchen or in the bathroom, then you need more expensive moisture-resistant drywall sheets.

How to lay drywall on wood and metal frames

Which framework is best?

If you want to fix defects and curvature of the walls, making them perfectly even, then, in addition to the drywall itself, you should take care of the frame. There are two options - metal and wood. Previously, everything was done only on a wooden frame, wooden beams were affordable, and this played an important role. Later they were replaced by a metal profile, mostly galvanized, which, despite the higher price category, gained popularity due to its greater reliability.

Among the shortcomings of the tree, we also note the fear of moisture and an unpredictable reaction after the final drying.

Wooden frame installation

If you have extra well-dried bars at hand, the frame can be assembled from them. It's much cheaper.

Such a frame can be erected on both wooden and concrete wall. Fastening to wood is done using ordinary nails or self-tapping screws with a large pitch, to concrete - already with the help of dowels.

Let's figure it out in order how to properly mount a wooden frame and drywall on the walls. First you need a thorough preparation of the surface of the wall. Having cleaned it of the remnants of wallpaper and other things, we treat it with a primer with antiseptic properties. Having received a clean and dried surface, we proceed to the installation process itself.

To carry out the work you will need:

• Fasteners
• Wooden bars
• Level
• Hacksaw
• Roulette

The working process:

1. We start with markup. On all surfaces of the room (walls, ceiling, floor, as well as corners), using a tape measure, we mark the attachment points for the guide rails. The distance between the fasteners must be equal to 200 mm;
2. We saw off the bars right size, we fix at the marked points, the control of the correct position is carried out by level;
3. First, it is worth fixing the bars on the ceiling, then on the floor, and at the end, making sure that everything converges, fix the elements on the wall. Since it is on the vertical guide rails that all the main load is distributed, the fastening must be of high quality and reliable. Instead of self-tapping screws, you can also use screws and metal corners.

Important! The distance from one rack to another cannot exceed 600 mm.

Electrical wiring should be hidden in special corrugated protective shells.

Jpg" alt="(!LANG: how to install drywall on a wall" width="700" height="573" srcset="" data-srcset="https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/otdelka_sten_laminatom_svoimi_rukami_C29B2E90..jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px">!}

Installation of a metal frame

Now let's figure out how to properly put drywall on the wall, using a metal frame already. For this purpose, a galvanized profile is most often used. Compared to wood, it has much greater strength and reliability, is not afraid of moisture and speeds up installation.

As with the tree, the whole process starts with markup. First, we check the height difference on the wall with a level. These irregularities should, if possible, be eliminated and taken into account when marking.

1. Fixing the profile. You will need two for each wall. The first is fixed from above along the wall, stepping back from the ceiling by 800-100 mm. The second is parallel to the first on the floor;
2. If you need to even out the unevenness, place an element of the desired thickness under the profile, which will add rigidity;
3. In order to be able to mount the rack elements, we install the profile on the floor so that the groove is directed upwards, and the groove of the profile under the ceiling, on the contrary, is downwards;
4. Vertical guides are attached to the wall at the corners with screws or dowels, the indent does not exceed 400 mm;
5. In places where vertical racks will pass, suspensions are attached to the wall every 400-500 mm;
6. Then the vertical posts are inserted into the grooves of the upper and lower horizontal profiles and must be fixed;
7. At the same time, the vertical profile is attached to the suspensions, after checking everything in terms of level.

Data-lazy-type="image" data-src="https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/montazh-pp-profiley.jpg" alt="(!LANG:how to install drywall on the wall" width="640" height="479" srcset="" data-srcset="https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/montazh-pp-profiley..jpg 300w, https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/montazh-pp-profiley-174x131..jpg 70w" sizes="(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px">!}

Thermal insulation of walls when laying drywall

Drywall has good thermal insulation properties, but by itself it will not cope. Before you start laying the GKL on the frame, you need to take care of the heat-insulating materials.

The most commonly used boards are expanded polystyrene and mineral wool. The thickness of the thermal insulation depends on the width of the profile ribs or frame bars.

In the intervals between the vertical posts, segments of material for thermal insulation are laid. When all voids are closed, a vapor barrier membrane is attached over the thermal insulation. A special tape is glued at the joints of the film.

Installation of drywall on the frame

Having assembled the frame and laid the thermal insulation, we come to the final stage. Now is the time to figure out how to properly lay drywall on the walls.

First, we calculate how many drywall sheets are required, based on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls. But it costs about 10-20% more to take, the material consumption largely depends on the experience of the installer.

Before starting work, transfer everything to paper, this stage will allow you to quickly navigate and cut the sheets into the necessary parts in advance. Then the drywall is attached to the frame, with the seams between the sheets should be located in the middle of the vertical profile, and the horizontal bar at the back should be in the middle of the sheet. This will provide the strongest and most durable construction.

Jpg" alt="(!LANG: how to install drywall on a wall" width="620" height="349" srcset="" data-srcset="https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/maxresdefault-1024x576..jpg 300w, https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/maxresdefault.jpg 1600w" sizes="(max-width: 620px) 100vw, 620px">!}

Bonding drywall to walls

Usually drywall sheets are attached to the frame, but this reduces the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, since the gap between the real and false walls is quite large. This is of great importance in rooms with a small area, where every centimeter is important. Then they use the technique of frameless wall cladding, in other words, putting drywall on glue.

Jpg" alt="(!LANG: how to install drywall on a wall" width="860" height="500" srcset="" data-srcset="https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/gipsokarton_na_klej_k_stene..jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 860px) 100vw, 860px">!}

Depending on the amount of curvature of the wall surface, different techniques are used. If it does not exceed 20 mm, then use Perflix glue, applying it in small slides, and press the drywall with your hands against the wall.

If the unevenness is more than 50 mm, only narrow strips of drywall are put on the glue, on which, after drying, using a special gypsum-based putty, the sheets themselves are attached. Everything happens in the following order:

1. We clean the wall from the remnants of the past repair. We make markings, level and plumb line will help you with this;
2. We process the surface with a primer, which must be chosen based on the characteristics of this wall;
3. After drying, glue is applied to the drywall with slides, the distance between the slides is about 20-30 cm;
4. We press the sheet against the wall, tap it with a rubberized mallet.

That's all, you glued the drywall to the wall with your own hands, it remains only to wait for it to dry completely.

Working with do-it-yourself drywall walls that can be perfectly aligned, or used to build light, durable partitions, is quite affordable even for a novice builder. Drywall is excellent for finishing the concrete walls of high-rise apartment buildings and leveling curved surfaces in private homes. This material is able to reduce the high audibility from the street and additionally insulate the building envelope.

The big advantage of drywall over others finishing materials is also the fact that from it you can create whole complexes of niches and shelves built into the wall, perform original arched structures.

With the use of this material, it is carried out in two ways - by fixing drywall sheets to a frame crate or by gluing the plasterboard to the wall using a special gypsum-based mounting compound.

If the process of leveling surfaces using plaster mortars requires fairly high skills, and if there are large differences on the walls, even outstanding skill, then working with drywall in such a comparison can be called simple. The main thing in this process is to correctly and accurately perform each of the installation steps.

To put the walls in order without hitches and difficulties, you need to prepare well for this event by purchasing necessary materials and tools, as well as having studied the installation instructions for a particular design.

Preparing the surface of the walls before leveling will also not be superfluous, especially since it will not take much time and effort, but will be of great benefit.

Drywall installation tools

For the installation of drywall structures, special tools will be required, and, for gluing the material, a smaller number of them will be required than for fixing to the frame.

In order not to repeat and create two lists for each type of work separately, you can include them in one, but with a few clarifications.

• Shurupov rt for mounting the frame and fixing the drywall on the crate.
• Spatula of medium size for applying putty and glue.
• Notched trowel for spreading the adhesive over the surface of the sheets.
• or the usual building level - for marking and monitoring the evenness of the wall being mounted.
• A sharp construction or clerical knife - for cutting material.
• An electric drill with a perforator and drills for concrete - for attaching the frame structure to ceilings, walls, floors.
• Nozzle-mixer for mixing glue (if drywall will be attached to the wall with it) and putty compounds.
• Paint roller for priming wall surfaces.
• Capacity for adhesive composition with a volume of approximately 8 liters.
• Shears for cutting metal - for cutting galvanized profiles.
• Planer for processingedges- chamfering.
• Grout for processing sealed joints between sheets.
• Grinder - "Bulgarian" and a disk for cutting thin metal.
• Prosekatel - for fastening metal profiles to each other.

• A rule that tests the evenness of a surface.
• Measuring and control tool - tape measure, a plumb line, a long metal ruler, a square, a simple pencil or marker.

Materials for working with drywall

From the materials you will need to purchase:

• Drywall, which must be ordered 10÷15% more than the required quantity.

Drywall is produced in four types, and each of them is designed for use in different rooms depending on operating conditions. The sheets have their own recognized color marking system, by which you can easily determine the intended purpose of the material:

Three main types of drywall - regular, moisture resistant and heat resistant

- Gray color has the usual drywall (gypsum plasterboard), used in residential premises with normal air humidity.

- The pink or light purple color of the cardboard indicates that it is a heat-resistant material used for wall cladding around fireplaces and stoves. It is defined by the acronym GKLO.

- Green shades are inherent in a moisture-resistant material that is suitable for wall decoration, for example, in a bathroom. It is designated by the letters GKLV.

- Dark gray or blue color is assigned to drywall, which combines the qualities of both heat resistance and moisture resistance. This type is denoted by the letters GKLVO, and it is used to decorate the walls of baths or boiler rooms.

Sheet sizes various types drywall vary as follows:

drywall type	Thickness in mm	Width in mm	Sheet length in mm
GKL	8,0; 9,5; 12,5;14; 16	1200
GKL	18 and over	600	1200
GKLV	10; 12,5; 14;16	1200	standard - 2500 (on request - up to 4000 mm)
GKLO	12,5; 14; 16	1200 and 600	likewise
GKLVO	12,5; 14; 16	1200	likewise

• Metal profile for installing wall lathing or mounting a frame partition.

Profile name	Appearance	Profile brand	Application area
guide		PN 50/40	Frame guide profiles for wall cladding and partitioning.
		PN 75/40
		PN 100/40
rack		PN 50/50	Racks of a framework of partitions and lathings of walls.
		PN 75/50
		PN 100/50
		PP 60/27	Frame walls and suspended ceilings.
guide		Mon 28/27
Protective corner profile		PU 20/20	Protection of external corners of partitions and walls.
Note: in the marking of profiles, the first number indicates the width, the second the height of the element. Profiles are produced in a standard length of 3000 mm.

• Direct hangers - for fixing racks to the wall, if it is necessary to create a large thickness of insulation or level the wall with large differences.

• Sealing tape, which is glued to profiles mounted directly to the wall.

• Dry mortar - mounting adhesive for fixing drywall to walls without installing a crate.

• before installing drywall and for training assembled structure to further puttying.

• Gypsum-based putty - for sealing joints between sheets and subsequent finishing alignment of a plasterboard wall.
• Reinforcing tape or mesh - for gluing joints when them puttying.

• Special self-tapping screws for working with drywall.

• Dowels for fixing profile racks on a brick or concrete wall, ceiling, floor.

• Thermal insulation material - if it is planned to insulate or soundproof wall or partition.

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Drywall and sheet materials

Preparatory activities

Whatever method of mounting drywall on the wall is chosen, it is necessary to prepare the surface before installing it. This must be done so that mold or fungus does not develop under the drywall, and when gluing the material, it fits snugly against the wall. The preparation process is not so complicated, but it will guarantee a long operation. new wall without repair work.

The work can be conditionally divided into three stages - this is cleaning the wall, sealing cracks and priming the wall with antiseptic compounds.

• The first step is to clean the wall of old coatings, such as old peeling plaster and unnecessary wallpaper. If the plaster is solid and adheres well to the wall, then it can only be primed.
• Cleaning can be done with a spatula. If you have to remove the wallpaper, then it is recommended to wet it intensively by applying water to the surface using a roller with a soft nozzle. When the wallpaper gets wet, it will more easily move away from the wall if you pick it up with a spatula.
• If the plaster layer is unreliable, unstable, flaking, covered with cracks, then the damaged areas must be removed. This can be done in two ways:

- The first option is to knock down the old finish with a puncher, or manually - with a chisel and a hammer.

- The second option is to abundantly soak the plaster and carefully peel it off the wall with a spatula.

• If a brick wall is leveled by gluing drywall, then it is imperative to remove all protrusions from it that could remain on it after the masonry is completed. The protrusions will interfere with a good fit of the sheets to the surface. Such irregularities are knocked down with an ordinary hammer or with a puncher.

After that, brick wall must be thoroughly cleaned with an iron brush from the remnants of sand-cement mortar and dust.

• Further, if serious cracks are found on the wall, they must be expanded, cleaned, and after it dries, repaired plaster mixture, sealant or mounting foam. Last option for example, if the crack in the wall or plaster layer is large enough.
• The next step is to treat the wall with an antiseptic primer. It is applied with a roller.

Priming is a mandatory event, and it is better to carry it out in two layers.

• All further work carried out after complete drying of the wall surface.

Prices for different types of primer

Primer

Alignment of walls by gluing drywall

Mounting drywall with gluing is much easier than mounting it on a frame. However, this method of fixing the finish is possible only if the wall surface does not have significant irregularities and deformations in the form of protrusions and recesses of more than 5 mm, and the ceiling level in the room does not exceed 3 meters.

This method of installation is not suitable even when the wall is supposed to soundproof or, since the materials for this will require a certain space under the drywall sheets.

This method is well suited for leveling not too high-quality walls to the ideal and creating smooth surface for subsequent application or gluing of decorative finishing material.

Gluing works are carried out as follows:

• The prepared wall must be measured using a plumb line and a building level. If dents are found on the wall, they must be brought to the same level with the common surface, since in these places, after installing drywall, voids may form where condensate will collect. This is especially important to do in cases where.

You can bring all the recesses and dents to the same level using self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the wall at a distance of 200 ÷ 300 mm from each other and up to the same level with the entire wall. Then, they are applied on top plaster mortar the desired thickness and equate it to the caps of the screws and the rest of the surface.

Before proceeding to the next stage of work, it is necessary to wait for the mortar to harden well, as the drywall sheet will rest on it.

• The next step is to apply another coat of primer.

The primer will not only protect the wall from various biological influences, but also create reliable adhesion between the wall, adhesive and drywall, which will speed up installation and improve the quality of work.

• Next, the mounting adhesive solution is mixed. To do this, water at room temperature is poured into the container, into which a dry powder mixture is poured and kneaded using a construction mixer or a drill with a nozzle installed on it. The manufacturer must indicate the proportions of the preparation of the solution in the manufacturing instructions, which can always be found on the packaging.

It is very important to remember that gypsum-based glue starts to harden very quickly, so it is better to knead it in small portions, otherwise you can spoil a large amount of the solution. If the process has begun with a grasping, it is impossible to stop it, even by adding an extra amount of water on an emergency basis.

• Further, it is required to provide that the drywall sheet during installation does not rest against the floor surface, it must be raised from it by about 8 ÷ 10 mm. Therefore, a rail of this thickness is temporarily placed under the sheet to be mounted.
• A drywall sheet is laid horizontally on the floor, and an adhesive mass is applied pointwise on it, in slides, at a distance of 180 ÷ 200 mm from one another. After that, the solution is slightly distributed, the sheet rises, is installed in the right place and pressed against the wall.

• The installed drywall sheet can be corrected, trimmed in the range of 7 ÷ 10 mm, for example, by tapping on it with a building level or a rule. If an unclosed space remains on top (and this is how it most often happens), then it would be best to veneer with GKL fragments only after the installation of entire drywall sheets giving direction to the entire wall is completed.

• Further, the work proceeds in the same order. All sheets are installed to each other end-to-end, with factory chamfers attached. Additional fragments, chamfers at the place of the cut, of course, do not have. It is not on the end sides of the GKL either. This means that for such joints it must be done independently, using a plane or a knife.
• At the end of the installation, the glue is allowed to dry thoroughly, so the lined walls are left for about a day.
• After that, you can proceed to sealing the joints. First, it is recommended to treat them with a primer, and then, after the soil has dried, the sheet joints are glued with a sickle mesh, which reinforces the joints, and the putty layer applied on top does not crack.

A thin layer of putty is applied to the joints glued with a mesh using a spatula. It is best to level it immediately to the maximum, so that after hardening there is less smoothing work.

If the serpentine tape does not have its own adhesive base, then at first the serpentine is applied to the joint, and then the serpentine is applied on top of it, and then pressed into the solution with a spatula, after which the excess is removed.

• When the putty dries, it is rubbed with a special tool - grout on which is installed sandpaper with fine grain or abrasive mesh.

After completion of sealing and drying of the joints, the entire surface is covered with a primer, which must also dry completely.

High-quality puttying is the key to the aesthetic appearance of a plasterboard wall

Whatever technology is used when installing a drywall wall, the final step before finishing is giving surfaces of perfect evenness and smoothness with putty. How to do it right or for painting - in a special publication of our portal.

Alignment of the wall with drywall using a frame structure

Mounting on a frame is more difficult, but opens up more possibilities

Mounting drywall on the frame is a more complex and troublesome option, but you can’t do without it if you plan to additionally insulate the wall and soundproof. The frame can be made of galvanized metal profiles or wooden beam.

Illustration
	Preparatory work is underway. The wall is cleaned of loose plaster and treated with a primer. When leveling the wall with drywall, whether the structure is with or without insulation, it is necessary to cover the base surface with an antiseptic composition. Next, the wall must be marked out by marking vertical lines on it, which will serve as a guide for installing racks. The step between the drains is taken equal to 400 or 600 mm - these values ​​fit well into the standard width of the gypsum board 1200 mm.
	The next step is to fix the guide profiles to the ceiling and floor, into which the racks will be installed and fixed.
	Profiles can be fastened to the floor, walls and ceiling with dowels, depending on the surface material - driven or screwed. Profiles can be fixed to wooden bases with self-tapping screws.
	To improve the quality of sound insulation, prevent the transmission of vibrations to the frame and resonate the plasterboard coating, before fixing the profiles to the floor, ceiling or wall, it is recommended to stick a special tape on its shelf adjacent to the surface.
	Having fixed the upper and lower guides on the flow and the floor, ideally exactly in the same vertical plane (this must be controlled with a plumb line), you can proceed to the installation of the racks. It must be remembered that how accurately the guides are set, the entire drywall wall will be so even.
	The racks of the frame are installed inside the guides, set along the marking lines, they are given a vertical position, and then they are fixed with a notcher. If there is no such tool, then fastening can be carried out using self-tapping screws.
	In this photo, the mounted frame is clearly visible, but it has not yet been finally fixed to the wall with the help of hangers.
	Further, each of the racks must be fixed with several straight hangers. These brackets are fixed on the wall with dowels at a vertical distance of 500 ÷ 600 mm from each other.
	Then, with the help of self-tapping screws, the racks are fixed to the suspensions (the verticality of the profile must be checked again). This makes the structure rigid, connected to the main wall.
	In this photo, the racks of the entire frame are fixed to the wall, and the crate is ready for further work.
	The protruding parts of the suspensions are bent to the sides. When the crate is ready, all communication wiring can be laid if, for example, it is planned to mount sockets or switches on this wall.
	If the wall is additionally insulated, then after the installation of the frame is completed, thermal insulation material - mineral wool - is laid between the racks. Further, the insulation must be closed with a vapor barrier membrane. It is attached to a wooden crate with a stapler and staples, and to a metal one - using double-sided masking or mounting tape.
	After that, proceed to the installation of drywall. The bottom sheets, in accordance with the technology, are recommended to be installed with a gap of about 10 mm from the floor - for this, temporary linings, for example, a wooden lath, can be used during the installation process. This is necessary so that the sheet from below does not begin to crumble under its own weight. Usually, the height of the sheet is not enough to close the entire space of the wall to the ceiling - there will be a section on top, which will later be covered by a separate fragment. It is recommended that sheets, starting from the second and further, be laid “in a run-up”, so that the horizontal seams are spaced apart: one from above - the next from below, etc. An example is shown in the figure.
	Drywall is fixed with special self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the profiles directly through the sheet, without pre-drilling. Fastening is carried out in all racks and jumpers (if any). In this case, the self-tapping screw should not be located closer than 10 mm to any of the edges of the sheet. The head of the self-tapping screw, after screwing in, should “drown” in drywall by about 1 mm. The step between the screws is from 250 to 350 mm. If suddenly the self-tapping screw “did not go”, then after removing it, another cannot be screwed into the same hole - you need to step aside by at least 50 mm.
	In this photo, the remaining area unfilled with drywall is clearly visible, and it has to be closed. To do this, it is necessary to install a cross-beam from the profile between the racks, to which the upper edge of the already mounted sheet and the lower side of the missing fragment will be attached with self-tapping screws.
	To fix the crossbar on the racks, you can fix the corners specially made from profile segments.
	The finished cross member is installed between the uprights, half slides under the installed sheet and fastened to the corners using a notcher or self-tapping screws.
	Another option for making a jumper. Measure and cut off from the profile a segment equal to the distance between the uprights plus the width of the upright profile, since the wide part of the cross member must be on the uprights between which it will be fixed. Then, the side shelves of the crossbar are cut to a distance equal to half the width of the profile, and are bent outward at a right angle. They will become the shelves through which the fastening is carried out using a notcher or self-tapping screws.
	A piece of plasterboard sheet of the required dimensions is measured and cut out. After that, it is attached to the racks and the upper part of the installed cross member. A chamfer is made along the edges of the sheets at the junction with a sharp knife or planer - this is necessary in order to be able to putty the joining line of the fragments with high quality. Such a chamfer is made on all edges where it is not provided for by the sheet design itself. Fragments are fastened with self-tapping screws according to the usual rules.
	A wall sheathed with drywall should look something like this.
	After that, a sickle mesh is glued to all joints, and then they are sealed with putty. In addition, all the holes must be puttied, from the caps of the self-tapping screws so that they do not later appear as rusty spots through the decorative finish. The final stage of work is the coating of all walls sheathed with drywall with a primer, and after it dries, with putty.

Installing a lightweight plasterboard partition

Installation is somewhat similar to wall cladding on a frame structure. But there are also differences here, the frame is fixed to the walls only from the ends, and is sheathed with drywall on both sides.

The frame partition made of GKL has the following basic design:

• The frame is mounted from a wooden beam or a galvanized metal profile. The frame racks are mounted at a distance from each other based on the width of the drywall sheet, so that its edges are half their width, and at least one rack is located in the middle of the canvas. It should be noted that quite often the frame is made combined, that is, in some places a wooden beam is inserted into the metal profile for rigidity.
• The frame is sheathed on both sides with drywall. Sometimes sheathing of one or both sides and two layers of material is practiced.
• Between the sheets of cladding, soundproof (insulating) mats- as a rule, basalt mineral wool is used for this.

Installation of a plasterboard partition is carried out as follows:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The first step is to determine the place of installation of the partition, its marking is carried out. To do this, points are determined on the wall and on the floor using a laser or conventional level and a tape measure, which are then combined into lines using a colored paint cord.
	Then, focusing on the line on the wall and floor, with the help of a plumb line, points are determined for beating markings on the ceiling.
	Immediately you need to determine the location of the doorway and make marks on the ceiling and floor for the installation of perfectly vertical racks. The fixing of the horizontal guide on the floor is carried out only before and after the measured area allotted for the doorway.
	After accurate marking of all surfaces, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bfixing metal profiles will be immediately visible. The rails are fixed first to the walls, ceiling and floor, into which the racks will then be installed.
	These elements are fixed with dowels (with wooden bases self-tapping screws are used). First, through holes are drilled through the guides, and then dowels are inserted and hammered into them (self-tapping screws are screwed in).
	Further, when the frame for the frame is ready, you need to immediately install the racks that will frame the doorway. It is recommended to immediately make tabs from a wooden bar into these profiles. Racks are installed from floor to ceiling and are fixed in the rails with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in from both sides.
	It is even better if two racks are installed next to them, combined with bars. This design will make the frame more rigid and reliable.
	The next step is to measure and mark the height of the doorway, where the transverse element will be fixed, completing its formation. To do this, the profile is cut at the corners, the side parts are bent and fixed on the racks.
	In order to stiffen the crossbar and the entire opening, the crossbar must be additionally connected to a rail fixed to the ceiling with one or two short posts.
	Further, all other racks are installed in the guides and fixed strictly in a vertical position with the help of a notcher or self-tapping screws. The step between the uprights is the same as indicated in the previous instructions - 400 or 600 mm.
	After installing the racks, you can proceed to the installation of drywall sheets. They are installed and fixed according to the same principle as when sheathing a wall. In the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe doorway, drywall should not be cut in advance. It will be more convenient to fix a solid sheet to the frame, and make cuts on it with a sharp knife on the spot.
	The upper side of the resulting rectangle is cut through, and on the side, longer, only cardboard is cut - then it will break exactly along the notch.
	Having finished the installation of drywall sheets on one side, you can start laying communication cables, for which small holes are made in certain places of the profiles - with the expectation that a pipe with wires (corrugated or smooth-walled) passes through them. It is forbidden to pass cables through holes in galvanized profiles without a tube-sleeve.
	In the chosen place, where the placement of sockets and switches is planned, socket holes are drilled on the installed GKL sheets for mounting socket boxes. They are connected to the cabling.
	If this has been planned, thermal and acoustic insulation material (mineral wool) is laid. Insulation panels or mats must be installed spaced apart between the posts.
	After completing the soundproofing process, a door frame is installed in the doorway. It is leveled, and if necessary, wedges are carefully driven into the gaps between it and the frame to help fix it in the desired position. Then, it is screwed to the frame racks. If large enough gaps remain around it, they must be filled with mounting foam, wait for it to dry and carefully cut off the excess that has come out.
	After that, the drywall is fixed on the other side of the partition. The installation principle does not change. Drywall on doorway fixed and cut out in the same way as in the previous case.
	The final stage before priming and puttying the entire surface is sealing the joints between the sheets and the holes from the self-tapping screws.

It is very important to carry out qualitatively, as they will determine the smoothness of the surface of the plasterboard wall, and this will depend appearance decorative finishes.

Video: a master class on the construction of a lightweight plasterboard frame partition

Working with drywall is a creative process, and if you really feel like doing it yourself, then you can safely get down to business. Having prepared all the tools and materials, as well as having studied the installation instructions, even that industrious owner of an apartment or house who has not previously come across the construction business will be able to carry out this event.