How and when to process remontant strawberries. Fertilizer for remontant strawberries

Looking forward to the strawberry season, we are saddened to see how it is slowly drawing to a close. Preparations, jams and compotes are made, strawberries are frozen in freezers, whole and in the form of smoothies, but nothing compares to the taste of fresh fragrant berries.

What is refurbishment?

This is a photo of strawberries at the end of August!

If an ordinary strawberry forms a peduncle, then another one, lays buds, blooms and bears fruit, then the remontant "knows how" to simultaneously lay peduncles, bloom and bear fruit.

However, it is divided into two types:

1. Some varieties bloom and bear fruit in waves (first, second, third) with short breaks.
2. Other varieties bloom and bear fruit continuously. At the same time laying peduncles, delighting with flowers and growing crops, strawberries please them until late autumn, and sometimes right with flowers and green berries goes under the snow.

These properties can be incorporated into the culture by nature, or they can be bred by breeders as a result of painstaking work.

Tricks

The timing of fruiting remontant strawberries can be adjusted by removing the flower stalks.

It is considered a trick of gardeners that during the period of mass strawberries (early, middle and late varieties), flower stalks are plucked from remontants, thereby pushing fruiting to the period when the main shaft is already harvested.

If ordinary varieties give their harvest in 3-4 weeks, then remontant stretches it for 3-4 months, but this does not mean at all that the crop yield will be 3-4 times higher than normal.

However, in order to systematically distribute the crop over time, it is also necessary to distribute nutrients, which is why technological process obtaining a berry is somewhat different than when growing varieties of short daylight hours.

Site selection and preparation

Red beets are a suitable precursor for remontant strawberries.

Of the predecessors, it is better to give preference to green crops, such as: lettuce, radish, beets,. After nightshade (potato, tomato, eggplant), it is impossible to lay a bed with strawberries.

The site is chosen sunny and even, without stagnant water. In the southern latitudes, where the heating is very intense, you can choose an openwork shade under the trees.

From soils it is better to choose loams or sandy loams with a slightly acidic or neutral reaction.

Garlic is often planted in a strawberry garden.

autumn planting

For autumn planting, the site is prepared from spring, for spring from autumn.

This will allow the soil to "ripen" and balance, and the microflora will make all the nutrients available for immediate absorption by the root system.

We scatter rotted manure (bucket per m 2), fresh compost, oven ash (kilogram per m 2), 20 g of potassium sulfate and superphosphate per m 2 over the site, and carefully dig everything up while freeing the site from weeds.

spring planting

The bed is dug up in advance, fertilized and leveled, so that later you can simply make holes with a scoop and plant strawberry seedlings.

Spring plantings can begin from mid-May, and autumn plantings from late August to mid-September.. The main condition for the success of the event will be high humidity: fog, drizzling rain, thick clouds - the best weather conditions for planting strawberry seedlings.

Planting seedlings in open ground

Freshly planted strawberries in our yard.

When planning an open field garden, you need to decide in advance on the method of cultivation.

Landings can be made:

• in rows. In this case, we maintain 20–25 cm, and between rows 60–70;
• carpet. With this method, the plot is planted 20–25x20–25 cm.

Landing scheme.

If natural precipitation is rare in your area, consider the possibility of drip irrigation in advance. The drop system can be laid both before and after planting.

• Since remontant strawberries are constantly selected, it is better to give preference, for convenience. ordinary way .
• so that the roots are straightened, and the middle is above the surface of the soil after watering. If the water is a little pulled, you can raise the bush, followed by watering.
• If the site is planted in the spring, then by the fall you will be able to enjoy the first harvest. At autumn planting next season, starting from summer, you will be provided with fragrant berries.

Care

Mulching makes it easier to care for strawberries and keeps the berries clean.

Strawberries absorb liquid feeds faster.

Strawberries start their growing season early. The root system is located shallow, and warming up upper layers soil already contributes to the germination of green shoots. During this landing period. To do this, dissolve 2 tbsp in a bucket of water. spoons of ammonium nitrate and pour under each bush 200–250 g .

The second top dressing should be carried out a little later, during the period when the flower stalks begin to advance. Fertilize during this period should be the same mineral fertilizers and in the same doses.

After the first fruiting, nutrients were removed, however, strawberry bushes no longer need nitrogen fertilizers for the growth of the vegetative mass, but phosphorus-potassium fertilizers need to be replenished.

Features of remontant strawberries

If ordinary strawberries can use stove ash, then remontant ones, during the fruiting period, fast minerals are needed to help resume fruiting buds.

For this purpose, you can use potassium sulfate and superphosphate. It makes no sense to scatter dry granules under the bushes. Fertilizers should act immediately and better dissolve them.

We dissolve 50 g of the mentioned fertilizers in a bucket of water and pour them under each bush in a volume of 200–250 ml.

Pre-irrigation

Drip irrigation of strawberries.

Top dressing of strawberries can not be carried out without prior irrigation. Only thorough watering will help absorb nutrients and start the renewal mechanism.

Third top dressing

At the end of summer, remontant strawberries are fed with wood ash.

The third top dressing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers should be carried out in late August and early September, and in late autumn, 10–15 g of furnace ash can be thrown under the bushes. Mineral substances left over from the burning of plant residues contain a fairly large range of chemical elements useful for strawberries.

autumn rains and melt water will bring minerals to the root system, and they will be fully available by the next season.

Pork, horse, cow ripened humus obligatory component top dressing . You can spread it along the aisle in the fall. One bucket will be enough for m 2. If such organics are not available, then you need to use compost, its beneficial microflora has already made plant residues digestible and will continue its work under the bushes.

In early spring, old leaves are removed from the bushes.

Pruning of green foliage on remontant strawberries is not practiced, but in the spring, it is necessary to carefully cut off the old, last year's foliage, thus clearing the bed.

Conclusion

A plantation of remontant strawberries is not durable. After using it for 2-3 years, grow seedlings and break the next row in a new place. In this case, your strawberries will be especially fruitful and tasty.

Video about the features of caring for remontant strawberries

Such garden plant, as a remontant strawberry, began to be found on the garden beds of non-professional gardeners quite recently. In view of its recent introduction into wide use, not all gardeners know how to properly care for an unusual varietal berry, and out of habit carry out the same manipulations with the plant as for ordinary strawberries. However, in this way, gardeners do not allow the potential of the plant to be revealed, and as a result, they do not receive a potential harvest. In this material, we will tell you what kind of treatment a remontant strawberry requires, care in the fall, as well as manipulations performed at other times of the year, we will discuss in detail separately.

What is a remontant strawberry and how is it different from a traditional garden berry

First, let's look at the meaning of the word "repair". This term refers to horticultural plants that have the ability to bear fruit multiple times during one growing season.

So, in this case we are talking about strawberries, however, some varieties are also characterized by such a high yield:

• strawberries;
• raspberries;
• home flowers (multiple flowering);
• other garden plants.

Strawberries are a large-fruited berry, which we are all used to designating that way, however, if we talk about its scientific name, then in this material we will talk about large-fruited garden strawberries. However, for ease of understanding, we will focus on the designation "strawberry".

Agrotechnics of cultivation

All varieties garden strawberry, available today to gardeners and gardeners, can be divided into two groups:

• ordinary;
• remontant.

Despite the serious differences in the mode of their vegetation, the methods of cultivation and care for each of the species are similar in many ways, because, in fact, these plants are the closest relatives. However, in this article we will not talk about in general terms, but on the contrary, about the differences that must be taken into account in order to obtain a solid harvest.

On average, the number of fruits of a remontant berry in one season is two units, however, under certain conditions, a crop can be obtained 3, or even all 4 times. The final amount will depend on when the so-called fruit barrels are laid in plants.

Thus, the process of formation of the mentioned barrels produces an ordinary garden berry only in that period of the year when daylight hours become short, that is:

• at the end of the summer season;
• at the beginning of autumn.

The remontant variety of the plant successfully carries out this process:

• during the period of long daylight hours (bud laying at a temperature of + 15 ° C and a day length of 14-17 hours);
• during the period of neutral daylight hours (bud laying by periods, every 5-6 weeks at a temperature of +2 to +30°C).

Remontant strawberries of neutral daylight hours must be present in every berry lover, as in the conditions of a “failed” season, which is not so rare due to the severity and unpredictability climatic conditions In Russia, ordinary strawberries may not bear fruit, and the mentioned remontant variety will comfortably continue to pick up the ovary. And will continue to do so until the onset of frost.

The second crop of the traditional remontant strawberry is the most abundant, depending on the age of each bush, it can be up to 90% of the total crop harvested during the growing season.

Note: Unfortunately, remontant strawberries, which have been especially actively fruiting in a particular season, may not be able to withstand the load, and die off by autumn. You need to know this feature, and be ready to replace obsolete bushes with new ones.

Rapid chopping of berries is a minus of the considered strawberry variety, however, it is more than offset by abundant primary harvests.

One more interesting feature remontant strawberry is that it can form fruits:

• on mother plants;
• young rooted mustache.

This is a great opportunity to get more berries than you expected, however, provided that the beds are covered with garden film, the mustache will have to punch the road in the literal sense: making holes in the fabric.

No wonder the strawberries of the variety we are considering are considered large-fruited. One berry of such a plant can reach 75 grams, record-breaking varieties sometimes delight gardeners with berries weighing 100 grams.

In the table below, we have systematized for readers who are passionate about gardening information about the features of the remontant variety of berries, which should be taken into account when deciding whether to grow it. Let's consider them.

Table 1. Features of growing remontant strawberries

Nuance	Description
Accelerated growth and fruiting cycle	Unfortunately, due to the high load (active fruiting), strawberries of the variety under consideration cannot bear fruit for as many years as ordinary strawberries. So, its shorter time will be: no more than three years for varieties of long daylight hours; no more than a year for varieties of neutral daylight hours.
Harvest sacrifice	Another feature: in order to get a second crop of remontant berries a little earlier and in a larger volume, you will have to sacrifice the flower stalks of the spring period. It is advisable to cut them all off. If your goal is to collect mustaches for the sake of reproduction, you will have to refuse, on the contrary, the second harvest.
The rapid onset of old age and the weakening of plants	Strawberries of a variety of neutral daylight hours, due to a serious load, quickly age, and, consequently, become smaller. It turns out that in the first year you will collect large fruits, in the second only small ones. To avoid disappointment, you must: in August, plant seedlings of the variety on a new bed; remove all flower stalks that have arisen after the berry has taken root, up to covering the beds with snow.
Removing bushes at the end of the season	Varieties of neutral daylight hours are recommended to be removed from the beds after the fruiting season in order to give the earth a rest and gain nutrients.
Mulching beds	Mandatory requires remontant strawberries in the process of growing mulching beds, using: dry foliage; straw; wood shavings; weeds without seeds; hay, etc.
Covering beds	Strawberries of the variety in question involve the use of organic cultivation methods. It is forbidden to leave them naked. If you do not mulch the soil, then cover it in other ways.

As you can see important nuances turned out to be quite a few. The rest of the points that relate to planting must be taken into account based on which variety of remontant strawberries you have chosen for planting. Let's go over the basic rules.

Rule 1 Planting berries should be carried out in well-lit areas, otherwise:

• plants will not be able to gain strength;
• the harvest will be small and few in number.

Rule 2 The distance between the bushes should be from 40 to 50 centimeters, between rows 60 centimeters.

Rule 3 It is best to plant garlic between the bushes, which will protect the strawberries from the attack of slugs.

A large number of questions regarding the care of strawberries arise precisely at the expense of the autumn period. In order to consider the features of the procedures carried out in preparation for winter period, let's remember what care measures are generally applicable to the plant we have designated.

1. Loosening the soil in which strawberries grow is the duty of the gardener No. 1. Thanks to this manual plowing of the earth, oxygen enters the roots of the plant through its layers. Like a person, strawberries cannot exist without him, just as they cannot reproduce.

2. Soil mulching - laying any plant mass on the ground for:

• her protection;
• improving nutritional properties.

Note: after mulching has been carried out, it is no longer necessary to loosen the soil.

3. Watering the strawberries of the variety we are interested in should be carried out often and plentifully; for it, use better water from barrels that have acquired a temperature environment because too cold water harmful to 4. To increase the yield, it is necessary to feed the berries with various natural or industrial means, and also process it from:

• diseases characteristic of strawberries;
• pests.

4. Be sure to weed the berry, except when the aisles are covered with a mulching cloth. Please note: during weeding it is necessary:

• remove mustache;
• tear off reddened leaves.

With one exception: if we are talking about the processing of NSD varieties, the mustache can be left, since they also bear fruit.

5. Pruning strawberries is also a must. However, with great care, because an inexperienced gardener can easily damage the growing point. To prevent this from happening, remove only the leaf blades using any sharp tool. Carry out the procedure after the first harvest.

So which of the following procedures should be carried out with strawberries in the autumn?

Firstly, this plant has a very negative effect on the soil, sucking out all the useful substances from it, so your first action should be to prepare the beds. It is carried out as follows.

1. Long before frost, the soil is dug up, previously unoccupied, or occupied by another crop. It is impossible to wait for a cold snap because the inhabitants of the soil will not have time to properly prepare and fall asleep, as a result they will die, and then there will be no one to our strawberries:

• pollinate;
• hill up through the natural loosening of the soil.

2. Before forming a bed in the prepared soil, a small depression is dug in the form of a trench, on the bottom of which layer by layer is laid:

• wet grass (lawn or weeds without seeds);
• manure;
• mineral fertilizers;
• excavated earth.

Such a supply of organics will give you excellent harvest, and prevent the development of any diseases characteristic of strawberries, due to the fact that it will initially receive enough energy and strength. This abundant fertilizer will last for the next 5 years.

3. It is imperative to prune late flowers and mustaches of strawberries that have not had time to take root, as well as leaves, exactly according to the scheme described above. The fact is that these plant formations go into in large numbers the strength of plants, which they better save until next year.

4. Strawberries are planted on the prepared bed, taking into account the distance between rows and bushes. Winter garlic also immediately landed in the aisles.

5. After preparation, the bed should be covered with a layer of some kind of protective material, such as polyethylene, since it is easy to clean in the spring, and in organic protection, mice can break through passages, damaging the bushes.

However, if for any reason you prefer an organic covering, you should use:

• dry foliage;
• straw.

Summing up

Autumn care procedures are determined by many factors, for example:

• will strawberry bushes survive the winter;
• will they give a harvest;
• will the berry be large;
• how plentiful will be the collection of fruits, etc.

Do not be lazy, and purchase a sufficient amount of manure and mineral fertilizers. Even if you start moving strawberry beds year after year, fertilizing the soil will have a beneficial effect on other crops as well.

As for the collection of mulch, it can be done right on your site, or you can buy straw from the farmers who harvest it. The price of such autumn preparation is not high, but you have to work hard. However, all your efforts will pay off when harvesting.

Video - Remontant strawberry

Remontant varieties lay buds during neutral and long daylight hours. When buying a seedling, be sure to pay attention to the NSD or DSD marking, this will help you adhere to certain recommendations for growing.

Strawberries of the remontant variety are distinguished by the fact that they can repeatedly bloom and bear fruit throughout the spring-autumn season. It is characterized by a weaker leafiness than that of garden strawberries, as well as fragility, the cause of which is the constant overload of crops. The plant needs more care, frequent watering, fertile soil. The best varieties of remontant strawberries: Albion, Lyubava, Queen Elizabeth II, Lord, Honey, Vima Rina, Selva and others.

The ability to set large fruits is retained in DSD bushes for no more than two years, then the berries become smaller, and growing strawberries further becomes unreasonable. Strawberry NSD has an accelerated development cycle, it is grown for only one season. In addition, the culture is divided into large-fruited, which yields twice a season, and small-fruited, which continuously bears fruit until the frost.

The first harvest of such strawberries coincides in time with the early garden varieties KSD. The second time fruiting occurs in August, the third - in the fall. As a rule, the yield of large-fruited strawberries as a percentage is expressed as follows: 30% of berries in spring, 70% in summer. Many gardeners sacrifice the first berries and prune flower stalks, providing an earlier, richer second fruiting.

Propagation of remontant strawberries

• Reproduction by seeds

Culture is propagated different ways: seeds, mustache, division of bushes. Through seedlings, some small-fruited varieties that do not form mustaches are grown from seeds. In addition, this method preserves the purity of the variety.

Growing remontant strawberries from seeds:

1. In February, soak the seed for three days in snow water, remembering to change it regularly;
2. Prepare seed boxes by filling them with a mixture of leaf humus (50%), garden soil (25%), sifted sand (25%). It is advisable to cover the bottom of the containers with a layer of broken bricks. Then moisten the ground well;
3. Since the seeds are very small, just crush the surface of the soil with them and lightly press, sprinkle with a spray bottle. Cover with a film, keep the temperature in the room + 20-25 ° C;
4. When seedlings appear, move the containers to a lighted, sunny place. Do not allow the soil to dry out, regularly ventilate the plantings;
5. After two weeks, seedlings dive, maintaining a distance of 3 cm between them;
6. In early May, plant seedlings in beds that have been previously freed from weeds and seasoned with compost.

• Mustache breeding

If you plan to expand your strawberry plantations by rooting growing mustaches, then get ready to sacrifice second crop berries. It is best to lay new beds in July-August, this will enable the bushes to take root well and provide an excellent harvest in next year. Reproduction with a mustache right in the garden is the easiest and most easy way by labor costs.

During fruiting, note the most developed and strong annual bushes with even, large berries. Select only the first whiskers and arrange them in small grooves along the side of the bed. Just cut off all the other mustaches that appear so that they do not weaken the mother bush. Soon, sprouts will appear on the mustache, which will begin to take root. For propagation, leave the first rosettes: cut off the ends of the mustache of the second order, but do not separate them from the mother plant.

In the future, constantly loosen, weed and water the plantings. In August, a week before the relocation of young bushes to a new place, cut off the mustache that connects them with the mother bushes. The best precursors are traditionally onion or garlic. Plant the plants in rows every 35 cm with a row spacing of 50 cm. The growth point should be flush with the ground, compact the soil, spill it with water.

• Reproduction by division of bushes

The division of the bushes is an emergency method that is used when there is not enough seedlings or when it is urgent to transfer the planting to a new place. For reproduction, two- and four-year-old plants are taken, selecting well-developed specimens with a healthy root system. At this age, the bush usually already consists of 30-40 small shoots-horns.

Each horn has a rosette of leaves, apical and several lateral buds, as well as adventitious roots. Dig up such plants in spring or early autumn, divide them into horns and plant them in a permanent bed. Water every day for the first time of planting. If the weather is hot, the seedlings should be shaded.

How to care for remontant strawberries

Care for remontant strawberries mainly consists in regular loosening and watering. Loosening the soil enriches the root system with oxygen, which is so necessary for the full development of the bush and the formation of the crop. During the fruiting period, plantings do not weed and do not loosen. Weeds growing in the garden, of course, reduce the quantity and quality of berries, so they get rid of them.

The formation of berries and their further ripening is impossible without sufficient moisture: its lack can lead to the absence of an ovary or the formation of ugly fruits. Keep the soil under the plants moist throughout the season. To reduce watering, as well as to minimize labor costs for weeding and loosening, soil mulching between the bushes will help.

Be sure to remove reddening leaves - this event rejuvenates the bushes. In addition, to get large sweet berries, periodically trim the mustache buds after the first rosette has formed. (This variety of strawberries tends to bear fruit on young rosettes formed from rooted tendrils). In the first year in spring, strawberries need to be fed: 15 gr. ammonium nitrate, 15 gr. potassium sulfate, 30 gr. superphosphate on square meter.

Closer to winter, reduce watering, carry out sanitary pruning of diseased leaves and mustaches. Remontant strawberries must experience frost, after which they cover it nonwoven fabric. The beds are also covered with a variety of mulches: fallen leaves, sawdust, straw, hay. If this is the last fruiting season, then the old bushes must be removed from the site before the first snow.

Strawberry is the most ancient berry; archaeologists find traces of it in sediments that are more than 60 million years old. But it became a garden culture only in the 15th century, before that people were content with a generous forest harvest. And modern breeders made the dream of our ancestors a reality - they brought out remontant varieties of strawberries, the fruiting of which lasts from early summer to late autumn, thanks to which they are distinguished by impressive yields. Remontant strawberries are incredibly popular among gardeners, but if you decide to breed this berry in your garden, you need to prepare for the need to scrupulously care for it, because the plant requires a lot of attention. Let's take a closer look at the rules for planting and caring for remontant strawberries.

strawberries remontant varieties differs from its forest relative, first of all, by an increased fruiting period. That is, as soon as one cycle of fruiting is completed, it is immediately replaced by the next. Thanks to the efforts of breeders, wild strawberries have acquired many useful properties, which facilitate the procedure for its cultivation, but at the same time they managed to keep the taste and aroma inherent in the wild berry unchanged.

Among the advantages of remontant strawberries are:

1. High yields. Modern varieties begin to bear fruit 2 weeks earlier than the classic ones, and due to frost resistance, they yield until late autumn.
2. Cold resistance. Even in case of damage due to frost inflorescences, new ones will quickly grow in their place.
3. Large fruit size compared to wild berries.
4. Taste and color variety. There are varieties with yellow or white berries.
5. Disease resistance and insect pests.

But they have such varieties and their drawbacks, which are associated with the difficulties of caring for them:

1. The berry will give a large harvest only for the first few years, then it starts to run out. In order for the plant to constantly actively bear fruit, it need repotting every 2-3 years.
2. Remontant varieties are more demanding on moisture, nutrition and lighting.. Without necessary conditions, the fruits will shrink and yields will decrease.
3. Such a strawberry grown only by seedlings.

Thus, remontant varieties of strawberries bring a lot of trouble to gardeners, but they more than pay off with the merits of the plant. Growing a berry has specific features, so before you start growing it in your garden, need to gain knowledge about landing and proper care for these varieties of strawberries.

Rules for landing on open ground

Sowing of remontant strawberries begins early - at the end of February, or in the first week of March. It is carried out as follows:

1. Pour into seedling container loose earth and pour water over it.
2. Spread the seeds evenly on the surface and press lightly with your fingers into the ground. It is not necessary to cover the earth.
3. Cover the container with glass to create a greenhouse effect and place on the windowsill.
4. Moisten the soil periodically from the spray bottle and raise the glass to ventilate.

Growing seedlings of remontant strawberries: temperature - 20-22 degrees, bright lighting - 12-15 hours a day, regularly ventilate containers

Strawberry seeds hatch long enough - 20 to 30 days. When the sprouts hatch and 3 leaves appear on them, the seedlings need to dive.

Planting strawberries on open ground as soon as the night frosts stop.

The plant is capricious in relation to the landing site. If cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage or potatoes were previously grown in this place, then the berry will not grow there. It is better to choose a site where beans, garlic, dill or parsley grew before. Also, a rich harvest of berries will contribute to the earth after bulbous flowers - tulips, hyacinths, crocuses.

The most optimal landing method is considered to be a two-line bush. It will relieve thickening and protect the plant from fungal infections.. With this method, a distance of 30 cm is left between two lines in the tape, and 70 cm between the tapes themselves. In the rows, the bushes are seated at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other.

The combined planting method is also popular with gardeners, when strawberries are alternated with other crops. Most often, garlic acts as its neighbor, which protects strawberries from the invasion of slugs.

The technology of direct planting bushes in the ground includes the following steps:

1. loosen the soil in the garden and form holes in it 25 cm wide, long and deep.
2. Thoroughly water the holes water.
3. Apply fertilizer to the soil. On a bucket of earth, take a bucket of compost mixed with biohumus in the amount of 2 liters. You can also add 2 cups of ash there.
4. plant seedlings. Spread the roots, they are buried vertically. In this case, the apical kidney is located strictly above the surface.
5. Water the planted bushes water.
6. Mulch the ground with a thin layer. To do this, use dried grass, needles, compost, but not straw, it is too hard for young plants.

Well, most of the work is done. Now it remains only with the help of proper care to create conditions for strawberries for active fruiting.

Features of growing and caring for remontant strawberries

Plant care includes the following components:

• watering and fertilizing;
• weeding from weeds;
• mulching;
• protection from diseases and insects;
• planting too dense plantings.

Watering is especially important at the stage of bush development, therefore, in the absence of rain, strawberries need regular watering throughout the summer.

During the flowering period, watering should be more abundant than during the fruiting period. If you pour the plant in the process of ripening berries, then they will be unsweetened.

Due to the long fruiting, the remontant strawberry needs to be fed more than other varieties. Before the appearance of green berries, bushes are fed with infused slurry (1: 8). Ash is also added there - 250 g per 10 liters. To feed a 5-meter row, 10 liters of fertilizer will be needed.

The next time the plants can be fed when they begin to bloom en masse. Treatment with boron, manganese and zinc (2 g of each substance per 10 liters of water) will improve the setting and contribute to an increase in fruit weight. Spraying is carried out only in the evening.

Mulching will greatly help simplify the care of strawberries. For adult plants, straw or rotted sawdust is used for this purpose.

Using mulch provides many benefits:

• retains moisture in the ground, which reduces the amount of watering;
• provides air access to the roots of the plant, so there is no need for constant loosening of the earth;
• restrains weed growth;
• protects berries from decay.

It is also important to protect strawberries from diseases. Most often, this plant is exposed to such diseases: powdery mildew, gray rot and late blight.

For plant prevention sprayed with Bordeaux mixture or infusion of garlic. It is also necessary to regularly clean the bushes from old foliage.

Of the pests on strawberries, slugs and grape snails are usually found.. From them, the plant should be sprinkled with a mixture of tobacco dust and ash (1: 1), or dry superphosphate should be spread around the beds.

Slugs damage remontant strawberries

All these activities provide the basic care that any plant needs. But remontant strawberries also have their own specific requirements.

Pruning bushes in the fall and preparing the plant for winter

In autumn, after the end of the fruiting period, strawberries are pruned. Foliage, tendrils and rosettes take away from the plant the strength that it needs to accumulate for the next flowering. Therefore, if you want to receive next year good harvest this procedure is necessary.

You need to cut the leaves immediately after harvesting the last crop, so that by winter the bushes have time to grow fresh leaves, which will act as a natural heat insulator. If you missed the moment, and new leaves do not have time to grow before the onset of cold weather, it is better to leave the old foliage and cancel pruning.

Leaves and whiskers are trimmed at the very base so that harmful insects do not start in their remains. Send the cut parts of the plant to compost pit, just carefully inspect them for pests or diseases, they may need to be burned.

After pruning the planting, you need to preventive measures treat with insecticides. And in order for new foliage to grow by winter, the plants must be watered regularly. You can also feed the roots with organic fertilizers.

In the central and northern regions, the beds are insulated for the winter with a layer of manure or fallen leaves, at least 5 cm thick. But the best protection from the cold for strawberries is snow. To make its layer thicker, lay between the beds of branches from trees. They hold snow well and form high snowdrifts.

These are the main points regarding the cultivation of remontant strawberries. After studying them, it remains only to choose specific varieties for yourself, of which, at the moment, there are a lot.

The best varieties of remontant strawberries

Arapaho

American variety. The first harvest is the end of June - mid-July, and the second flowering period begins in the second half of July. The second time it bears fruit until the end of September. High-yielding variety - up to 300 g of berries are harvested from one bush. The size of the fruit is medium (10 g), the shape is round, the color is bright red. The berries have a sweet and sour taste and tender juicy pulp, the smell is weak. This variety has a small amount of mustache and high resistance to cold.

Bordurella

Strawberries come from France. The first time it blooms at the end of May, the second - at the end of July. Fruits until the start of frost. Good yield (300 g per bush). Medium sized, shiny, bright red fruits. Mustache is formed a little.

Remontant Crimean

Variety bred in Simferopol. It has average yields, but a very large berry size. In the first harvest, it reaches 40 g. The fruits are round, dark saturated shade, with juicy and sweet pulp. The variety is resistant to gray mold disease.

Temptation

This variety has a large fruit size. Their average weight is 15-20 g, but it reaches up to 35 g. Fruiting lasts from the end of May until the first frost. The berries are incredibly sweet, with a dense texture and a bright aroma. It has a high decorative effect due to elongated peduncles, suitable for growing in pots on windowsills or insulated balconies.

rapella

The most popular variety in Europe. Bred by Dutch breeders. In the first harvest, the berries reach a mass of 20 g. Pulp of dessert taste, dark red. The main advantage of the variety is resistance to late blight.

Diva F1

It has powerful bushes with highly located flower stalks, which simplifies harvesting. The berries are very beautiful - large, regular shape, noble scarlet hue. They have an excellent sugary taste and high transportability. The variety is winter-hardy.

Superfection

Another variety of American origin. Its main advantage is resistance to powdery mildew and spotting. It has a fairly large size of berries - up to 25g. The fruits are conical in shape, have a sweet and sour taste. Frost resistance is high.

Evie 2

One of the favorite varieties of gardeners. Incredibly high-yielding - from 10 sq.m. collect up to 55 kg of berries. The fruits are large, spherical, of all remontant varieties are considered the most delicious and juicy.

Whichever of the existing remontant varieties you choose, with the right agricultural technology, the plant will provide you delicious berries throughout most of the summer and fall. Moreover, these varieties are very similar in taste to wild berries, therefore, with a little effort, you will arrange a real forest clearing on your site.

Remontant strawberries are able to bear fruit several times a year. Because of this feature, varieties of remontant strawberries require special care and cultivation methods.

Remontant strawberries differ from the usual time of laying fruit buds. In ordinary strawberries, fruit buds are laid during a short daylight hours, and in remontant strawberries, during a neutral or long one. Therefore, remontant varieties, when growing in open ground, bear fruit 2 times a season: the first time in the month of July, and the second - in late August / early September.

The second harvest can be much larger than the first. It can even be up to 90% of the total number of berries per bush per season, although most often this figure approaches 60%.

Remontant varieties are large-fruited. The mass of 1 berry in some cases can even reach 100 grams. On average, the weight of 1 berry varies from 20 to 75 grams, depending on the variety.

In the absence of special care, already in the second year of growth of the bush, the berries turn out to be small and rare, and in the third year the plant most often dies.

Soil preparation

It is better to grow these varieties of strawberries in the territory where crops such as carrots, parsley, garlic, radishes, beets or legumes previously grew. At the same time, it is not recommended to plant this crop after potatoes or cucumbers (as well as after tomatoes and cabbage). In addition, it is better not to grow this plant next to raspberries.

The site chosen for planting should be in direct sunlight. In addition, the soil on the site should be level, without bumps and depressions. Location in the lowlands is not allowed.

It is best if the bed is sandy or loamy soil. Peat soil, as well as sod-podzolic soil, is not suitable for growing this crop.

The soil for planting should be either slightly acidic or neutral. It is necessary to prepare the soil for planting in advance. If it is planned to plant a crop in the spring, then the preparation is carried out in the fall, if the planting is to be done in the fall, then the soil is prepared in the spring or summer.

At the beginning of the preparation, it is necessary to dig up the ground with a pitchfork and level it with a rake. During digging, it is necessary to remove the roots of weeds, as well as to fertilize. As such fertilizers, you can use humus or compost in the amount of 1 bucket per square meter of land. It is also necessary to add 5 kg of wood ash to the soil (the figure is based on 10 square meters).

When fertilizers are applied to the ground, it is dug up and leveled, it can be left until planting. A month before the proposed planting of the bushes, it is necessary to add potassium sulfate (in the amount of 20 g) to the soil with the addition of superphosphate, which must be taken twice as much as potassium sulfate (the figures are based on each square meter). After fertilization, the earth is dug up again.

Planting seedlings

At different ways landing is different and care. Planting dates for each type of strawberry may also vary.

Dates and methods of landing

Landing in the ground is carried out in the autumn, or in the spring. For the southern regions, it is preferable to plant seedlings in the ground in early September, while for the northern regions it is preferable to plant seedlings in the spring months, but not earlier than May.

For middle lane It is preferable for Russia to choose the autumn months, from the beginning of August to the end of September, but it is also possible in the beginning of spring - from the end of March to mid-April.

Should focus on temperature regime: the optimum air temperature when planting seedlings is 15-25 degrees Celsius.

Methods for planting seedlings in the ground

• carpet;
• nesting;
• private.

With the nesting method, a distance between plants of at least half a meter is established. This method of planting seedlings is suitable for varieties that throw out mustaches. This method of planting allows you to get not only a good harvest, but also a quality planting material.

The advantages of this method of planting is that the plants do not come into contact with each other, which means they do not infect each other when diseases occur. In addition, the bushes are well lit, as they do not obscure each other.

Among the shortcomings, one can single out unused plots of land, which, when this method plant quite a lot, since the distance between the bushes is about 50 cm.

The distance between the strawberry bushes is set at 20 cm - this is with the carpet method. At the same time, 20 cm is the distance not only between the bushes of the 1st row, but also the distance between the rows.

With an ordinary method of planting this crop, a greater distance between rows is provided - up to 70 cm, while the distance between the bushes remains the same - from 20 to 25 cm. The bushes will grow over time, and at the same time the plantation area will increase.

Care of planted spring seedlings

disembarked in early spring seedlings need shelter. The bed can be mulched with straw, covered with pine needles or sawdust, or even agrofiber.

Mulching is necessary to retain moisture in the soil, which will allow you to water the plantation a little less often.

Caring for seedlings planted in spring also includes removing weeds from the plantation, loosening the soil and regular watering.

Caring for planted autumn seedlings and preparing for winter

When planting in autumn, it is necessary to remove all first-order mustaches. After planting in the ground, the bushes must be provided with regular watering to ensure sufficient soil moisture. It should be remembered that planting should take place no later than 3 weeks before the first frost. After the seedlings have endured the first frosts, all leaves should be removed from the bushes and the strawberry bushes should be covered with covering material.

Outdoor cultivation methods

There are many ways to grow this crop. For little ones summer cottages non-standard landing methods have been specially developed, which greatly save space on the site.

On the ground in the beds

Among the classic ones, two methods of planting can be distinguished:

• one-liner:
• two-line.

With a one-line method, the distance between rows is kept at least 60 cm, and with a two-line method - no more than 30. The single-line planting method is safer for plants, since they do not come into contact with each other and, accordingly, cannot infect each other.

The two-row planting method increases yields as the soil is used more rationally.

For small areas, there are other ways to plant remontant strawberries in open ground, for example, a vertical method or "in bags".

vertical way

With the vertical method, strawberries are planted in pots, in cut pipes, tires, boxes, or in any other container that can be placed vertically. At the same time, space is greatly saved, since pots with bushes can be placed vertically in several floors. But in this case, care is a little more complicated.

"In bags"

When planting in bags, polyethylene bags are used in which soil is placed, and seedlings are planted in it. Such bags are hung vertically, which also saves space. Holes are made for plants.

Under cover material

It greatly facilitates the care of the plant by planting a bush of this crop under a covering material. Growing strawberries in this way allows you to create a microclimate in which the soil does not dry out, but at the same time, due to the lack of sunlight, weeds do not grow under the agrofibre.

In addition, due to the constant humidity under the covering material, earthworms begin to actively live, which loosen the ground, so caring for strawberries planted in this way is much simpler.

The berries do not come into direct contact with the soil and this has a positive effect on the quality of the product. Therefore, growing remontant strawberries under covering material is a fairly progressive way to get high yields at a fairly low cost.

Care for remontant strawberries during the active growing season

The number of bushes, the quality of the root system and, as a result, the number and size of berries harvested from one bush per season depend on the quality and correct care of the plant.

Watering and fertilizing

During the growing season, sufficient attention should be paid to soil moisture. With a lack of moisture in the ground, insufficient formation of the ovary, or the formation of fruits, is possible. irregular shape. All this will adversely affect the quantity and quality of the crop. Therefore, watering should be regular.

Mulching will help reduce the costs associated with regular soil irrigation. open areas land around the bushes. This will lead to moisture retention in the ground, which in turn will allow you to water the plantation less frequently.

In the spring it is necessary to fertilize the soil. For this purpose, ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate are used. Their number is calculated based on the formula: 15 g of the substance per 1 square meter of soil.

This calculation is true for both types of fertilizers. Superphosphate is also used for top dressing. Per square meter, it needs twice as much as potassium sulfate.

Pruning remontant strawberries

Whiskers should be trimmed during the growing season. This should be done throughout the spring-summer period. If it is planned to grow new shoots, then the mustache is not cut off, but dug in, and thus by August there will already be young bushes that are ready for transplantation. Leaves and mustaches are trimmed in autumn.

All red, blackened, dried or infected shoots are removed. Thus, the bush is preparing for wintering in order to more easily endure the winter cold.

What and how affects the quality of the crop

The quality and quantity of the crop is affected by the correct care of the bushes and young shoots. The regularity of watering, the absence of pests and diseases in the plant greatly affect the amount of the crop. In addition, the benefits of regular feeding should not be underestimated. During the growing season, top dressing can be done twice a month.

Also big influence the quality of the crop is affected by the correct trimming of the mustache. Since young shoots require a lot of strength to root.

In the absence of proper care for the bushes, there will be few strawberries, and it will be small.

Propagation of remontant strawberries

Propagation of remontant strawberry varieties is carried out in at least three ways:

• growing from seed;
• by dividing the bush;
• and with a mustache.

Growing seedlings from seeds

When growing strawberries from seeds, the purest varieties are obtained. This method of planting is very laborious, since it is carried out in the spring and lasts for several months.

Seeds must be prepared in advance. Preparation must begin as early as February, and only in mid-May will the seedlings be ready, which will need to be planted in the beds.

By dividing the bush

The method of propagation of remontant strawberries by dividing the bush is resorted to in case of an insufficient number of seedlings, or when it is necessary to transfer part of the plantation to another place as soon as possible. To grow strawberries in this way, strong and healthy plants are needed. Therefore, either two-year-old or four-year-old bushes are chosen. Their root system should be strong and healthy.

At the age of 4, the bush has several dozen shoots of horns. Each horn is already well developed, has lateral buds and formed leaves. In addition, adventitious roots are well developed. Such plants can be planted only in spring, in emergency cases - in early autumn. Having dug up such bushes from the ground, they must be divided and planted immediately.

After transplanting, plants should be watered daily. If at this time there is scorching heat on the street, it is necessary to provide young seedlings with a constant shadow.

Mustache breeding

Mustache reproduction is economical way, which is the easiest in terms of labor. In addition, new bushes obtained in this way give a harvest next year.

However, when propagating strawberries with this method, a second crop of the season must be sacrificed. The fact is that the strawberry bush spends energy either on the formation of berries, or on the development and rooting of the mustache. Therefore, if you want to get high-quality planting material, you must refuse to receive a second crop.

For reproduction in this way, annual bushes are selected, which, at the first fruiting, gave large, even berries. The first mustache that appears must be spread around the bush, giving them the opportunity to take root. Mustaches that appear later must simply be removed.

By August, young bushes will be ready. A week before moving them to a new place, it is necessary to cut off the mustache that connects them to the mother bush. Young bushes with the help of a small spatula are transplanted to a new place.

It is advisable to transfer the bushes with a small clod of earth, so the root system will suffer less and the plant will more easily tolerate the transplant.

Autumn preparation for winter

Autumn preparation provides for the removal of everything that can prevent the bush from overwintering normally and bearing fruit with renewed vigor starting from the new season. This means removing any vines that are not rooted, as well as damaged, reddened, and weak leaves.

In addition, in harsh winters, any strawberries must be covered. It is better to choose a material whose density is about 60 grams per square meter. For these purposes, agrofibre, spunbond or any other material is suitable.

Mulch, pine needles, leaves or grass are also used to cover strawberries. Though this way turns out to be more economical than buying fiber, there are a number of disadvantages in its use. In this case, mice can start up in the shelter, which are the enemies of strawberries. They damage shoots and dig passages.

When covering a strawberry plantation, it is better to opt for special covering materials or for a dense plastic film.

Varieties of remontant strawberries

There are several dozen varieties of remontant strawberries. Only a few of them will be described below.

autumn fun

This variety has been popular since Soviet time, he was one of the first included in the Soviet selection of DSD. A bush of this variety bears fruit twice a season, with proper care. The berries are not large in size, their weight most often does not exceed 20 g. The taste of the berries is quite sweet, the fruits of this strawberry variety are used to create all kinds of desserts. The pulp of this species is quite dense, so they are often used for freezing.

This variety is propagated with the help of a mustache, of which a bush forms a lot during the season. Also, the variety is resistant to attack by fungal infections and strawberry mites.

Russian size

This variety has large fruits. Moreover, it is frost-resistant, and therefore suitable for cultivation in more northern regions. The berries are very juicy, the plants are resistant to diseases.

Galya Chiv

Fairly new hybrid variety, bred in Italy, which is characterized by high performance. The average weight of one berry is about 45 g. The color of the berries is bright red, in addition, they have a high sugar content.

Vima Rina

This is a Dutch variety, it lays fruit buds during neutral daylight hours. Vima Rina practically does not produce antennae, therefore it is propagated in other ways. This variety bears fruit from the second half of June and continues until the first frost.

The color of Wim Rin's berries is rich red, darker than that of berries of other varieties. The fruits are large, weighing up to 75 g. The taste of this strawberry is sweet and soft, besides, the density of the berries is low (they are not suitable for freezing).

Diamond

Diamond is an American variety. At the moment it is considered the best among all varieties of remontant strawberries.

This species is propagated with a mustache.

Selva

This variety is one of the best. Firstly, it is very highly productive, and secondly, it has excellent taste characteristics. Large fruits, reaching 50 g, have a dark red color, and light flesh inside.

Queen Elizabeth 2

In Queen Elizabeth 2, the weight of 1 berry can reach record numbers up to - 110 grams. This is a very frost-resistant variety, it gives the first fruits quite early.

novel

This hybrid variety has flowers Pink colour. This feature makes it easy to distinguish Roman from other types of remontant strawberries.

This variety can be grown indoors. With proper care, it can bear fruit up to 10 months a year. The berries are not large - up to 25 grams.

Lyubasha

Lyubasha is unpretentious, frost-resistant, has small, dark red fruits. Most often it is used for vertical cultivation, since the berries are formed not only on bushes, but also on rosettes.

Diseases and pests

Among the main enemies of remontant strawberries are:

• spider mite;
• ants;
• mouse;
• gray rot.

To fight ants, it is necessary to water the strawberries with water, to which a little vegetable oil or boric acid.

To fight spider mite it is necessary to achieve sufficient humidity land plot, as they breed well in a dry environment.

Mice need to be fought with carboxylic acid. It is necessary to create a solution (25 grams of acid is used per 10 liters of water) and pour it into the holes.

To combat gray mold, you need to regularly care for the bed. If there are damaged bushes or berries, they must be removed in a timely manner, and the berries should not be allowed to come into contact with the ground, since it is precisely because of this that the berries deteriorate.

In this article, the features of the growth of remontant strawberries were described, as well as the issues of caring for it. One of the most important factors to get the desired result is right choice varieties. Before planting remontant strawberries, it is advisable to try several varieties and find the one whose taste is closest to what you want.