How to grow garden strawberries at home. Rules for planting strawberries in open ground and under covering material

14.06.2019

Strawberries are considered one of the most delicious and at the same time easy to grow berries. The fruits consist of tender, juicy pulp with a delicious aroma and taste.

Strawberries are very nutritious, contain valuable chemicals in their composition: organic acids, dyes, tannins, calcium salts, iron metals, a lot of sugar, phosphorus, vitamins A, B, C.

Strawberry is a perennial plant that occupies a niche between shrub and herbaceous forms. It has three types of shoots: shortened stems, mustaches, peduncles. It is easy to grow it on any site, observing only a few rules. We will talk about how to properly grow strawberries in this article.

How to grow strawberries on the site?

Where to plant strawberries? Choose a place

Planting strawberries is best done on flat irrigated areas, protected from the wind, where there are no perennial weeds. You can plant bushes between gooseberries or currants. In the garden with big trees It is better not to plant strawberries, in the shade it will not bear fruit well, moreover, when spraying trees, dangerous pesticides can get on it.

Strawberries are unpretentious, can grow on any soil, but still, largest harvest it gives on light soils rich in humus. Poor fruiting on saline soils, limestone, with a close occurrence of groundwater.

The highest yield of strawberries is observed in the first year, which is why, when harvesting several crops, strawberries must be alternated with other crops. It is better to do this every 3 or 4 years.

It is very important to prepare the soil well before planting. The richer it is in nutrients, the more powerful the root system will be, therefore, the fruiting will be more productive.

To successfully grow strawberries, the soil must be prepared a month before planting. Dig up to a depth of 30 cm. For planting in the spring, the soil is prepared in the fall. For 1 sq.m. up to 8 kg of compost, about 100 g of superphosphate, 30 g of potassium salt are added. Loosen and level the soil.

How to plant strawberries correctly?

Planting strawberries can be done from spring to autumn, but the best time for planting bushes - the end of summer, the beginning of autumn. The bushes must have time to take root, get stronger in order to endure the winter.

When choosing planting material, give preference to plants with a well-formed rosette, with 3-4 leaves, in the center of the growth bud should be undamaged, dense, green. Roots up to 6 cm long should not be overdried, have a good lobe.

There are several ways to plant strawberries. Simple strawberries are best planted in rows. On the prepared plantation, rows should be marked at a distance of 50 cm from each other. In each row, prepare shallow pits, between which there should be from 20 to 30 cm, fill them with water.

Two tendrils can be planted in one hole. Before planting, cut the roots to 4 cm so that they do not bend in the ground. Sprinkle bushes with earth, press. Further, a little secret, as if pulling each bush up a little by the leaves, this must be done so that the heart (rosette) is cleared of the soil and does not rot in the future.

After planting, it is important to properly water the strawberries. You need to water around the bush and make sure that water does not get into the center. Before stable rooting of seedlings, strawberries need to be watered both in the morning and in the evening.

Some gardeners use black film when growing strawberries. Under it, the soil warms up well, mustaches do not take root, there are no weeds, and the soil remains loose and moist. At the same time, the berries are always clean and dry.

Continuing the theme of planting strawberries, we want to offer you an instructional video on how to plant strawberries correctly.

Propagation of strawberries

Continuing the topic of how to grow strawberries, it is important to reveal the issue of its reproduction. Strawberries propagate in several ways: by dividing bushes, by seeds, or by seedlings from mustaches.

To obtain the latest high-yielding varieties, for growing remontant strawberries without whiskers, seeds are used.
Varieties that do not have mustache growth are propagated by seedlings obtained by dividing the bush. The bush is dug out of the ground, divided into bunches with roots, which are then planted.

The main method of reproduction, the fastest and most reliable, is mustache seedlings. Ready rooted shoots are dug up, separated from the mother plant, the roots are cut to 6-7 cm, extra leaves, leaving 3-4 leaves.

Seedlings should have a well-developed bud (core), an overgrown root system. The dug seedlings are dipped into an earthen mash for a while so that the roots do not dry out. It is better to plant it on the same day.

How to care for strawberries?

Soil for strawberries and fertilizer

In early spring, it is necessary to clean the strawberry plantation with a rake. All dry leaves, dead mustaches, dried bushes are raked out, they are carriers of pests and diseases.

After that, the soil should be well fertilized with mineral fertilizers, humus should be applied and loosened well. Throughout the growing season, the soil should not contain weeds, be always loosened and well, but moderately watered. When the ovaries begin to form, the soil must be moist, the yield will depend on this.

For 1 sq.m. up to 30 liters of water are consumed, after each harvest, refreshing watering is carried out - up to 10 liters per 1 sq. m.

Mulching strawberries

When ovaries begin to form, it is recommended to stop loosening the soil and mulch. The best material for this is rye or wheat straw. So that the weed seeds and grains in it do not sprout, the material must be prepared in advance: shake the straw, moisten with water and leave in the sun, the seeds will germinate.

After the straw dries well, you can use it as a mulch. For the same purposes, hay is suitable, cut before the formation of seeds in the grass.

On the market, especially for mulching, you can buy Agril black covering material.

Soil mulching allows you to grow large and sweet strawberries: retain moisture, prevent the growth of weeds, help ripe berries not to rot, better color, stay dry, and facilitate their collection.

If strawberries are watered by rain, mulching is carried out to a thickness of up to 7 cm in a continuous layer. When irrigating along the grooves, mulching is carried out only under the bushes, leaving aisles for irrigation.

After fruiting ends, all the straw, and with it dry shoots, leaves, are raked and burned. At the same time, all pests and foci of diseases are destroyed.

Further watering and fertilizing strawberries

After fruiting is completed, the plant begins to grow new roots, whiskers, leaves. At this time, you need to feed the bushes with organic and mineral fertilizers, water and loosen the soil. This will ensure the normal growth of new shoots. For 1 sq.m. up to 3 kg of humus, up to 30 g of superphosphates, up to 15 g of saltpeter, 20 g of potassium salt are added.

In summer, the soil should be maintained in a loose, moderately moist, weed-free state. This will allow future color buds to form correctly.

However, it should be noted that excessive nutrition can affect the excessive growth of the vegetative mass, this can lead to stretching, thickening of plants, and the formation of gray rot. So irrigation and fertilization during this period should be optimal.

Frost - how to save strawberries?

During the flowering of strawberries in the middle regions of Russia, frosts are often observed. How to protect the future harvest from them? To combat frost, smoke piles are made around the area with strawberries, they should not burn much, but emit a lot of smoke.

How to make a smoke pile? A stake is driven into the ground, around which dry combustible material (needles, straw, brushwood, shavings) is laid down. On top of it - straw manure, tops, raw leaves. All this is covered with an earthen layer up to 6 cm.

If the soil temperature drops to zero, a stake is removed from the pile, and a torch is inserted in its place. Smoke should continue for two hours after sunrise.

Strawberry flowers can be protected by sprinkling, it starts before the temperature drops, and continues after sunrise until all the ice is gone from the plants.

Is it possible to grow strawberries all year round?

Is it possible to grow strawberries not only in spring and summer, but also in winter, autumn, that is all year round? This question interests many amateur gardeners. Yes, you can grow strawberries throughout the year, not only in greenhouses, but even in an apartment. For this, special remontant varieties of strawberries were bred.

Such strawberries do not like multiple transplants, so for it you need to immediately choose a convenient container for growing. In it, it will grow and winter. Most unpretentious variety remontant strawberry is called "Elizabeth II".

Each individual plant will need 3 liters of soil. If strawberries will be planted in a pot or jar, choose a larger container. In boxes and containers, bushes should grow at a distance of up to 20 cm from each other. A popular method of growing is in bags, in this case more than five crops per year can be harvested.

The main condition for growing a remontant variety is good lighting; fluorescent lamps are used for this. It is also necessary to provide a comfortable temperature and ventilation. A balcony or a heated greenhouse is best.

How to grow strawberry seeds?

Strawberry seeds can be grown and planted both in the garden and in pots.
This is very easy to do if you follow the following rules.

Strawberries are one of the most delicious and popular berries in our country. To get a rich harvest of sweet fruits, you need to know many of the nuances of growing. There are many ways to cultivate the berry. How to grow strawberries correctly?

Strawberries can be planted in a permanent place in early spring or in autumn. Autumn planting is preferred, since fruiting will come in the coming season. Plants planted in the spring will only bear fruit in a year. However, there is a risk of plant death after a return frost.

Autumn planting strawberries will have time to take root and get stronger before the onset of winter. The optimal time period for landing is the period from August 10 to September 25. It is not worth delaying planting, because late planting can greatly reduce the yield.

How to choose a place?

For strawberries, it is desirable to choose a flat area with a sufficient amount of sunlight, not blown by drafts. Before planting, it is recommended to check the soil for the presence of pest larvae: wireworm, nematodes and the Colorado potato beetle, and also to make sure that there are no roots of perennial weeds in the soil.

If large trees grow in the garden, casting a shadow on berry bushes, strawberries will develop poorly. Such a neighborhood is also dangerous for the health of those who will consume the berries, because when spraying trees, some of the chemicals can get on the fruits. Good companions for strawberries are currants and gooseberries, so bushes can be placed between these crops.

Strawberries are considered unpretentious plant, which can adapt to life in almost any area. However, she has her own preferences: the culture develops best in light soils, loamy, chernozem and sandy loamy soils. Strawberries feel comfortable in dark gray forest soil on a small southwestern slope. On sandy, clayey, peaty and sod-podzolic soils, strawberries bear fruit worse.

When choosing a site, determine its acidity: for strawberries, normal values are from 5 to 6.5 pH. Groundwater should not pass close to the surface; a depth of 60cm is optimal. V winter time the thickness of the earth in 25 cm should not freeze stronger than to -8 degrees Celsius.

One site is suitable for growing strawberries for 3-4 years, then it must be transplanted to a new place. You can return the culture to the previous site after 2-3 years. The principles of crop rotation should be observed. Strawberries are planted in areas where garlic, herbs, cereals, marigolds and petunias have previously grown.

Site preparation and seedlings

If planned spring planting, the soil begins to prepare even before the onset of winter. They dig it up and add 10 kg of humus to each m2 of soil (5 kg of manure can be replaced), up to 100 g of superphosphate and 50 g of potassium salt. If the holes were not fertilized in autumn, then 3 handfuls of humus and one handful of wood ash are added to each hole.

Before planting, seedlings must be left for 3 days in a cool place, and immediately before lowering into the hole, the roots must be treated with clay mash, so that they take root more easily and do not dry out.

The mash is prepared as follows: half a bucket of orange clay is poured with water so that it slightly covers the clay layer. The mixture will infuse and soon turn into a mass similar in consistency to sour cream. To get rid of undissolved lumps, the clay is well mixed.

Before planting, pinch the longest root of the bush. In order for the root system to take root faster, the green mass of the seedlings is also cut off, leaving 3-4 large leaves each. If autumn time is chosen for planting strawberries, the soil is prepared in the spring according to the above scheme.

How to choose seedlings?

It is necessary to plant only healthy and strong seedlings. The root system should be fibrous, and the length of juicy white roots should reach a minimum of 3-5 cm. The diameter of the root neck is preferably 6 cm. The green mass of a quality seedling consists of 3-5 leaves and a whole apical bud.

Acquired seedlings must be quickly planted. If it is not possible to plant immediately, strawberries can be buried in moist soil, after wrapping the roots with moistened moss. You need to arrange the seedlings in a cold room or in a dark corner of the garden.

How to plant strawberries?

The scheme of growing strawberries in open ground

Strawberries are planted during cloudy and wet weather.

The landing process includes the following steps:

A bush is lowered into the prepared hole.
The root system is carefully straightened so that it is located throughout the space.
The hole is gradually covered with earth, periodically tamping the soil so that voids do not form.
The root neck is buried in line with the soil.
The young plant is watered abundantly.

Methods of cultivation and reproduction

There are several ways to grow and propagate strawberries. The culture is grown in vertical beds, using flower pots, pipes and bags, under agrofibre, film tunnels are being built. The plant is propagated by seeds, mustaches and division of the bush.

string method

If the line method is chosen, it is necessary to prepare six hundred seedling bushes per 100m2. There are single-line and double-line landing methods. The classic fit, consisting of two lines, is popular. This placement option assumes a distance between lines of 30cm, between rows - 70cm, and between bushes - 20cm.

The single-line planting method implies 70cm spacing between lines and 20cm spacing between bushes. The beds are arranged in a direction from north to south, and two rows of strawberries are planted along the edges.

The landing process includes the following steps:

If the area is small, it is advised to use a cord for planting. With the help of a tape measure, marks of future rows are made at the two ends of the selected section.
Pegs are installed along the edges of the rows, onto which a cord is pulled, indicating the future line.
Observing the recommended distance, along the stretched cord with a stick in the ground, the places of future planting holes are marked, which are then dug out to such a depth that the root system can freely fit in the hole.
A liter of water is poured into the hole.
After water has been absorbed into the soil, a well-spread root system is placed in the mud.
The hole is covered with dry earth, regularly tamping the soil to avoid the appearance of air pockets.
The young plant is watered using half a liter of water for each shrub.

To save plants from pests, it is recommended to lay lutrasil or roofing material on the soil with holes made for the bushes.

With film tunnels

Shelter made of film material will help strawberries ripen faster, a gardener can even win several weeks if he creates such a structure. Most often, this method is used when growing early strawberry varieties.

The easiest to create and operate are film tunnels, which are installed in early May:

To begin with, support arcs are installed, which are placed at a distance of one meter from each other. Above the ground, they should rise half a meter.
At the ends of the arcs buried in the ground, a film is fixed, which is then pulled over the supports.
The result is a kind of film tunnel. If the film sags from above or from the side, it is necessary to fix the arcs with twine.

Plantings in a film tunnel must be regularly looked after (mulched, harvested), as well as arranged for periodic ventilation. For this reason, one side of the greenhouse must be deaf, and the gardener must be able to get inside from the other side.

One side of the film is sprinkled with earth or fixed with heavy objects, and a rail is attached to the other side. From the end of the structure, the film is collected in a bundle and tied to pegs driven into the ground. Landing care is easy to carry out. A thermometer should be placed inside to monitor the temperature. If the thermometer rises above 25 degrees, urgent ventilation is necessary.

On vertical beds

Gardeners who do not have large areas, the vertical method of cultivation is popular. Strawberries are planted in special containers, arranged vertically and filled with soil. Pipes, bags, flower pots are used as containers, car tires. Any vertical arrangement will do.

This method is also suitable for growing strawberries if the site does not have suitable soil for them. The big advantage of the method is to obtain a rich harvest when using a small area of the site.

The distance between planted plants should be about 10cm. The container in which the root system will grow must be at least one and a half liters in volume. Each container is filled with a soil mixture consisting of soddy soil, humus and peat in equal proportions.

As soon as containers and seedlings have been prepared, planting begins from the lowest tier, gradually moving to the very top. Strawberries grown in vertical beds are watered 2-3 times a week using warm water.

She needs regular top dressing, which is carried out during watering. With the onset of cold, the culture needs protection. If the structure is prefabricated, it is dismantled, and the containers are placed on the ground and covered with agrofibre.

Benefits of using vertical beds:

Easy care (no need to get rid of weeds).
Less chance of disease.
Saving area area.
Easy to harvest and save time.

There are also some disadvantages:

Less nutrition due to small land volume.
Fast drying and frequent watering (potted strawberries dry much faster, so frequent watering is required).
Freezing in winter (if you do not cover the plant and bring it into the room, the strawberries will die).

Under agrofibre

The use of agrofibre allows you to reduce the ripening period of the crop by a week. After the snow has completely melted, the bushes are covered with agrofibre. Under this material, a comfortable temperature is created for the development of culture. It is protected in case of return frosts and cold winds. After establishing comfortable temperature cover is removed.

Growing from seeds

The seed method has several advantages because the seeds have a long shelf life and there is no possibility of transmission of fungal diseases. Seeds are harvested independently or purchased in a store.

For self harvesting strong bushes are selected on the site and seeds are collected from mature berries. Planting material is dried and stored in a glass container until the next season. 3 months before the proposed planting in open ground, the seeds are wrapped in damp gauze and placed in the refrigerator.

Sow seeds in January:

drainage and soil mixture are poured into the container;
in the ground make rows half a centimeter wide;
the earth is watered;
sow seeds, which are lightly sprinkled with earth.

The soil in the box must always be kept moist. In a month, the first shoots will appear. Young plants are transplanted into a large box, and at the end of April they are moved to open ground.

Growing with a mustache

Popular is the propagation of strawberries with a mustache. Strong mustaches are separated from the mother plant and planted in peat tablet, which is placed in a tray filled with water. Shelter is organized from above to create greenhouse conditions. In a week, the mustache will sprout. To avoid injuries in open ground, the mustache is transferred directly in a peat tablet.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

By dividing the bush, remontant strawberries are propagated, which practically does not give a mustache. Choose a three-year-old plant with strong roots. In autumn or spring, the mother plant is dug up and divided into parts so that each new bush has roots and a leaf rosette. The resulting delenki are planted in a permanent place.

Care after landing

After planting, strawberries require attention. It is necessary to regularly water it, feed it, remove weeds and prepare for wintering. In the spring, the site is raked. All debris, fallen leaves, mustaches and dry bushes that can transmit diseases to new plants are removed from the site.

Throughout the entire period of strawberry development, the soil should always be loosened, without weeds and moderately watered. After the formation of ovaries, strawberries are no longer loosened and mulched using wheat or rye straw. If there is no such material, you can purchase a special canvas for mulching in the store.

Watering and feeding

The soil should always be in a moist state, so watering is done as the earth dries. After the end of fruiting, strawberries begin to grow new roots, leaves and whiskers. During this period, mineral and organic top dressings are introduced. Three kilograms of humus, 30g of superphosphate, 15g of saltpeter and 20g of potassium salt are added per square meter of land.

winter care

Strawberries need special preparation before the onset of winter time. After cutting the leaves and mustaches, the earth is loosened, well shed with potassium permanganate and fed. Until young foliage appears, the site is well watered. If the bushes can grow a lush green mass before the cold weather, they will cope with any frost. To save the plant from severe frosts, it is covered with pine needles.

Sweet strawberries are considered the queen of our gardens, so every summer resident should know the secrets of growing them.

Initially, strawberries were considered false garden (pineapple or large-fruited) strawberries, which originated from Chilean and virgin strawberries. Strawberries were bred in Europe in 1739. It is considered a product of hybridization (the process of obtaining hybrids by combining different cells into one). If you disassemble the name of the culture, then it comes from the word "club" - something spherical and round. There are a huge number of plant varieties. If you know how to properly care for him, you will always receive good harvest.

How to grow strawberries outdoors

Before studying the cultivation of strawberries in the open field, familiarize yourself with the characteristics of the culture. The plant is a perennial with an upright drooping stem 15–40 cm high. The roots penetrate at a depth of 30–40 cm. The leaves are basal, collected in a rosette, relatively large, the underside is hairy with protruding veins. White flowers from 5 to 12 pieces, collected in inflorescences. The flowering period is 3 weeks. Fruits appear from an overgrown receptacle (3–5 berries are formed on a brush): first, small brown “nuts” form.

The stem stiffens some time after planting the crop. In the process of development, horns, mustaches, peduncles are formed:

Rosettes or horns appear in the lateral parts of the stem. Kidneys resembling "hearts" are formed. The larger the formation data, the greater the yield will be subsequently. Keep in mind that with development, the plant forms horns higher and higher above the soil surface.
Mustaches are long whips. For planting material, use mustaches of the 1st and 2nd orders.
Peduncles are not intended for reproduction.

Proper cultivation of strawberries is a very laborious process. Care features are as follows:

In winter, the bushes do not freeze up to temperatures up to - 8–12 degrees, under snow - up to - 35 degrees. If buds and flowers appeared in early spring, then frosts will damage them: it will not work to completely lose the crop, because the culture blooms unevenly. The buds withstand frosts down to -4-5 degrees, blooming flowers persist up to -2 degrees.
Culture loves good lighting open spaces but can tolerate shaded areas. Plant bushes between rows of young plants. If you place strawberries under the crown of a large tree, then small berries are subsequently formed.
In summer, frequent watering is required; with short-term flooding, the culture is perfectly preserved. Keep in mind that fruiting and development worsen on waterlogged or too dry soil.
Bushes are replaced once every 2-3 years: sometimes plants are kept for 4-5 years, the fifth year of the bush in one place is considered the last.

Choice of landing site

Ideal landing spot - well lit household plot With flat surface, protected from strong wind. It is desirable that the land be loose, cultivated, without weeds: remove the roots of wheatgrass, bindweed, thistle, thistle, gout in advance. Groundwater can occur at a depth of 70 cm. Do not choose areas located in a lowland where moisture prevails, cold air. Remember that in such places the crop ripens 9-12 days later. Steep slopes are not suitable for planting, because when the snow melts, the earth is washed away, which leads to the exposure of the roots.

When choosing soil, give preference to medium loam. Do not plant in light gray soil, peat, clay, sod-podzolic soil, soil with a high content of sand: the culture does not tolerate low nutrient content, lack of moisture. If the site is dominated by clay or sandy soil, then first carry out its cultivation.

Preliminary cleaning of the site from weeds and pests

The main pests are wireworm, strawberry nematode, Colorado potato beetle. Pre-check the beds for the presence of insect larvae. When the snow melts, collect and burn dry plants. If you find pest larvae and want them to die, plant alkaloid lupine. In addition, the soil is treated with ammonia water: 20 kg is taken for 1 weave. If you need to clear the area from cereal weeds, then take the "Roundup": 3 liters for 1 ha.

Soil preparation

With a close passage of groundwater, a high bed is made. In autumn, the earth is dug up: on black soil - to a depth of 30 cm, on poorly fertile soil - 18–20 cm. Land preparation can be carried out in 1-2 months: the soil must settle, settle. Remember that strawberries get sick with a high concentration of salts in the ground, so do not fertilize before planting. Strawberries prefer loose black soil, sandy loam. Fertilize as needed:

If the earth is loamy, then add rotted manure, peat or compost (per 1 sq. M bucket of fertilizer). If it is not possible to use organic matter, use nitroammofoska, nitrofoska (2 tablespoons are taken for 1 sq. M.).
For sandy soil, use an increased dose of manure, compost, humus (per 1 sq. M 2-3 buckets), soddy soil and sawdust (3-4 kg).
heavy loam or clay soil dilute with river sand with organic fertilizers: for 1 sq. m use 3-4 kg of sand, 2-3 buckets of manure or compost.
Remember that the culture develops well in slightly acidic, neutral soil, with a pH of 5.5-7.0. With increased soil acidity (pH below 5.5), liming is carried out. It is recommended to apply limestone or dolomite flour, because these additives are valid throughout the entire period of growing the crop in one place (about 4 years). The application rate of limestone or dolomite flour is 3-4 kg per 1 sq. m. Add lime 2-3 years before laying the plantation for cultivation. If there is no lime, then add ash - it acts softer, contains useful elements. Ash is brought in before digging the earth (2–3 st. per 1 sq. M).
If the earth is alkaline, then acidification is necessary: use peat, sawdust, rotted coniferous litter (10 kg per 1 sq. M) - additives work for a long time. Ash cannot be used. If there is no organic matter, then use mineral fertilizers: ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate will do.

Planting and caring for strawberries

Often (especially in summer), planting is carried out using the two-line method: seedlings are placed at a distance of 15 cm from each other in an even row, the next row is planted at a distance of 30 cm, and the next two-line tape is placed after 70 cm. A single-line planting pattern is also common: the bushes are placed in one row at a distance of 15–20 cm, after 70 cm the next line with plants is placed. This method is suitable for ridges that are shaded by trees, large bushes.

When to plant strawberries

If planting is done in spring or autumn, then do it as early as possible: if you delay with work, the yield decreases. Autumn landing is carried out from August 10 to September 25, spring - from April 1 to April 20. Sometimes, in order for the plant to take root well, planting is carried out from mid-July to the end of August: a cloudy day is chosen for work, it is better to plant after rain or watering the soil.

Selection of planting material

Before you buy seedlings, pay attention to the condition of the bushes. The choice of planting material is based on the following points:

It is desirable that the bushes are fully formed, have 3-5 straightened leaves.
Greens should be saturated in color, without damage, spots, wrinkles.
High-quality rosettes are squat, have large pink or red central buds: remember that the development of the bushes and the harvest depend on their size.
If the diameter of the "heart" is from 20 mm, then in the first year you will get up to 300 g of berries. Bushes with elongated petioles, green "hearts", give a small harvest. Weak plants do not tolerate diseases well, are quickly destroyed by pests, so choose strong specimens.
If the bushes bloom, then give preference to specimens with large flowers. Do not choose seedlings with small or no buds.
When laying a new plantation, buy 3-5 copies of each variety: 3-4 varieties should be present on the site.
If the root system is open, carefully inspect the roots: they should be light, from 5 cm long. Do not buy specimens with dark roots, because they are weak and diseased, they do not take root well after planting.
Examine the growth point ("heart") - the place should be thin. If it is thick, then the bush is old: the berries will be small, fruiting is only 1 year old.

It is desirable that the roots of the bushes be sold with the ground: this is how the plants take root better in a new place. If the roots are open, then plant as soon as possible. When planting is delayed, dig the seedlings into moist, loose soil (the place should be shaded). In addition, the roots can be wrapped in moist moss and the seedlings can be stored in a cool room (cellar or basement).

Features of autumn planting

The beds are prepared in early spring: fertilizers are applied for digging. If there is not enough free space on the site, then the beds can be used for planting early vegetables that will not harm strawberries: onions, garlic, carrots, celery will do. Plant seedlings from August 10 to September 25. Before planting (about 5 days in advance), the seedlings are stored in a damp, cool place.

In order for the plant to take root quickly, treat the roots with fungicides (drugs for fighting fungi - Agat-25K, Bravo, Vitaros, Oksikhom), dip in a clay mash: this approach eliminates the possibility of drying seedlings. If you don’t know how clay talker is made, use the recipe: take ½ bucket of orange clay, fill it with water (the liquid should cover the clay), leave to infuse, after which a creamy mixture is formed (if there are lumps, mix the mass). Study the scheme of planting bushes:

Pre-moisten the soil: the soil should be moist, but not wet.
Place the seedling box in the shade.
Shorten the roots to 7-10 centimeters.
The holes are made with a bayonet shovel, the seedlings are positioned so that the "hearts" are flush with the soil surface. If the “heart” (point of growth) is located deep, then the plant will rot, if it is high, it will not survive the winter, it will freeze.
The roots are sprinkled with earth, compacted. It is important that the roots are loose in the hole, the earth should fit snugly. With this approach, the bushes will not be pulled out. If the earth is not compacted, then the plant takes root slowly, it may die.
Water the seedlings: 0.5 l is taken for one plant. So the seedlings are watered until they take root. Mulch the soil after watering.

Spring planting seedlings

Do not delay landing: the first days of April are the right time. Prepare the soil before the onset of winter: apply humus (8-10 kg / sq. M) or manure (5 kg / sq. M), superphosphate (100 g / sq. M) and potassium salt (50 g / sq. M), then dig up the bed. Sometimes in the fall it is not possible to fertilize the soil, then when planting bushes in each hole, it is recommended to throw a handful of humus or wood ash.

Choose developed bushes, store them in a cool place for 3 days before planting. Do not forget to treat the roots with fungicides, clay mash, as described during the autumn planting. Make a distance of 30 cm between the holes and rows. The depth of the holes is created so that the roots fit vertically in them: pinch the longest root, cut the outer leaves (leave 3-4 leaves).

Pour warm water into the hole, then lower the roots, gradually fill the hole with wet earth, compact it. Remember that the growth point must be flush with the ground. If planting in dry soil, then after thoroughly compacting the earth, spill the seedlings well warm water. In the spring, in order to avoid freezing, the bushes are covered with a film.

Technology of growing strawberries in the open field

If plants are provided suitable conditions, then in the first year after planting, the root system actively develops, mustaches appear on the bushes. As for flower stalks, it is recommended to remove them in the first year, thanks to which the plant will direct all its forces not to fruiting, but to the development of the root system and greenery, which is very important for young crops. In order to subsequently get a good harvest, it is important to study not only the rules for caring for plants, but also the schemes for planting them.

Line method

Stock up on seedlings in quantities from 600 to 670 pieces. Landing time - April, July-August-September ( deadline- the last days of September). If planting in the summer, then the harvest will be next season. Work in cloudy, wet weather. Arrange the beds from north to south. The most common method is a two-line planting: the distance between bushes is 15–20 cm, between lines is 30, between rows (ribbons) is 70. With a single line method, the distance between bushes is 15–20 cm, between lines is 70. Work begins with landing 2 rows from the edges of the beds. Check out the boarding plan:

If you want to protect plants from pests, avoid fruit rotting, then lay lutrasil on the ground before planting. First, make holes for the bushes in it at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other: the canvas is cut with a knife crosswise, subsequently the resulting corners are bent and pressed against the soil.
To make the rows even and the beds neat, make appropriate marks at the opposite ends of the beds: use a tape measure to calculate the location of the rows.
In the marked places, stick the pegs, pull the cord over them.
Using a stick in a row, designate places for planting bushes.
Dig holes in the marked places with a bayonet shovel, baking powder cats or hands.
Pour a liter of water into the hole. When the water is absorbed, place the bush, covering its roots well with mud. Next, the hole is covered with dry soil, which is pressed tightly.

According to the specified scheme, one-, two-, three-, four-, five-line landing is carried out. In hot weather, shade is created for plants: green branches or burlap are used. After watering, mulch the soil to prevent crusting. If you use covering material as described above, then remove it after harvesting: ants and other insects breed under it, which are very difficult to get rid of. In November, cover the bushes if there is no snow cover.

In cover tunnels

If you want strawberries to develop quickly and bear fruit a few weeks earlier, then use a shelter. It is applied for early varieties. Among gardeners, the option of growing crops using film tunnels is common (suitable for those who do not have a greenhouse). As a rule, plants that bear fruit the first or second year are covered. Greenhouses are installed in late April-early May:

Wire arcs are installed: they are placed at a distance of 1 m from each other, their height is up to 0.5 m.
The ends of the arcs are buried in the soil.
A film is stretched over the arcs, it should be carefully fixed.
From the sides and top, the film sags, so the arcs are fixed with twine.

In order to subsequently harvest a good harvest, make one wall of the tunnel open: sprinkle the edge of the film with earth or place heavy objects on the material. On the other (opposite) side, at the end of the tunnel, collect the film and tie it into a knot, tie it to pegs, which you will later dig into the ground. At temperatures above 25 degrees inside the greenhouse, ventilation is needed.

Water strawberries once a week, in the morning with warm water. Requires regular weeding. Fertilize the beds ("Nitrophoska", "Biogumus"), before flowering and after fruiting, spray to protect the bushes from diseases, pests (from powdery mildew, weevil, strawberry mites, treatment with a liquid prophylactic solution "Karbofos", "Inta-Vir", "Sherpoy", "Aktellik"). In autumn, the bushes are covered with straw, spruce branches, corn stalks, lutrasil.

Using agrofibre

Harvest can be obtained in the early stages (a week earlier than with traditional cultivation). After the snow melts, the bushes are covered with agrofibre, thanks to which a good temperature is created for the plants: the material effectively protects against temporary frosts and strong winds. When the weather is fine outside, the material is removed.

Sometimes you need to get the harvest 2 weeks earlier. It is recommended to install tunnels under the agrofibre:

Wire frames are fixed (length 2 m, thickness 4-6 mm).
Arcs are installed along the rows of plants at a distance of 1 m from each other.
The ends of the arcs are buried to a depth of 30 cm.
From above, the arcs are fastened.
Agrofibre is covered, the ends of which are buried.

Cultivation of strawberries in warm beds

A popular modern method of growing is produced using warm beds. The structure is created on the surface of the earth or deepened into the ground. Drainage, heat-generating layer, soil are used for the construction. When arranging warm beds, even in an unfavorable climate (where frosts occur until mid-June), you can get a good, relatively early harvest. You can create:

Frame bed, which is suitable for wet areas, wetlands. The prepared layers are placed in a box: the frame is made of boards or slate.
Bulk bed - suitable for places that are not threatened by flooding ( The groundwater must pass far from the surface). The first stage is the digging of a shallow trench, then the “stuffing” is filled from wood chips or dry branches (large ones are laid first, then smaller ones), paper (cardboard, newspapers, magazines), humus, dry withered grass, leaves (10 cm layer). After laying the “filling”, pour warm water over the bed, sprinkle with fertile soil. Fence the edges of the beds with boards.
Combined beds, the creation of which combines the two previous methods. The lower layers of organic matter are laid in trenches, the upper ones in a box.

Regardless of which method is used to create the beds, study the sequence of layers. Trenches or boxes consist of:

Fine metal mesh that protects against rodents.
Shredded dry branches, bars, wood waste.
Cardboard, newspapers.
Sawdust, small wood shavings.
Fresh vegetable waste.
humus.
Earth layer.

Raised beds for growing

The principle of creating a raised garden is similar to the previous method. The only difference is in the backfill. A raised garden may not have a heat generating layer, sometimes only a layer of fertile soil is present. Basic creation tips high beds:

If the region is northern, then create a garden with a height of 20–25 cm: in winter, the bed will be under the snow and the crops will not freeze. Boards with a height of 40–60 cm are not covered with snow and freeze through, which negatively affects the plants.
If there is an approach to the garden from only one side, make the width of the garden up to 60 cm. If two-way maintenance is possible, then a width of 1 m is made.
For beds, a balanced purchased soil or humus.
Before backfilling the ground, prepare a frame of boards or slate.
After backfilling, do not compact the soil, leave it loose so that oxygen and nutrients enter the roots.
A raised bed can be made curvy and thus decorate the site.

Proper care during flowering

In the spring, add ammonium nitrate (15 g / sq. M), superphosphate (30 g / sq. M), potassium salt (10 g / sq. M). Pollination occurs in May-June-July (depending on the region), at the same time ovaries appear. Apply nitrogen, potash fertilizers, humus, ash. To increase the number of inflorescences, get fragrant fruits, spray the bushes with a solution boric acid(1 tsp per 10 liters of water). Regular loosening of the soil is required. Remove weeds, excess leaves, mustaches, pests. Before the fruits ripen, lay grass, straw, sawdust, needles (pine branches).

Watering and feeding

Large berries ripen with good watering. Even experienced gardeners admit to the difficulty of maintaining a balance when watering: it is important to water the bushes and at the same time not to waterlog the roots. With a lack of water, the root system will dry out, and if there is an excess of moisture, this will lead to rot. To avoid this, follow the recommendations:

Start watering from the end of April-May (the time of active vegetation).
Use a watering can or water with a hose. Drip irrigation from manufacturers of irrigation systems is also suitable: power is supplied to the root system. Sprinklers can be circular, fan, swinging, rotary.
For 1 sq. m requires 10-12 liters of warm water.
Watering frequency in summer - 1 time in 10-12 days, when it's hot - 3-4 times a week. In dry autumn, water the beds 2 times a week.
Watering is carried out in the morning.
Water should not fall on the leaves, inflorescences.

Strawberry propagation and transplant

There are many ways to propagate strawberries or garden strawberries. This is easy to do if you follow specific guidelines. The most common method is to obtain planting material by growing rosettes obtained from vegetative shoots (whiskers). If varieties that do not let a mustache grow on the site, then you can use the division of bushes or obtaining seedlings from seeds.

By dividing the bush

This method used in the cultivation of remontant strawberries, which have practically no whiskers. In addition, the division of the bush can be used when there is a shortage of large rosettes obtained from the mustache. Divide two-, three-year-old bushes that have a developed root system. Reproduction is carried out in spring or autumn: a large, productive bush is dug up, divided so that each outlet has roots, then each horn is planted in a permanent place, carefully watered with warm water.

Mustache (sockets)

For breeding, choose developed one- or two-year-old bushes with large berries. Large rosettes should depart from the bushes. When caring for plants, remove only the smallest shoots. In July, cut off sockets with 5-6 leaves, plant them in individual pots or to a new permanent place: when transplanting, do not shake off the soil from the roots - this is how the plants take root better. Be sure to water the outlets thoroughly.

seeds

Often this method used for propagation of remontant strawberries. Large, ripe berries are selected, a layer with seeds is cut off from them, which is subsequently rubbed onto fabrics, the mass is dried in the sun. When the mass dries, grind it again, separate the seeds and store until planting in a paper bag. You need to sow in the spring: the seeds are pre-soaked for several days in melted or rain water (change the water 2 times a day). If the seeds are purchased, soak them for several hours in a growth regulator.

Sowing is carried out at the end of February or March. In order not to make mistakes, follow the rules:

Prepare the box, lay drainage on its bottom (broken brick, expanded clay), create a layer of leaf humus, river sand, fertile land.
Moisten the soil.
Make grooves at a distance of 5 cm from each other, the depth of the trenches is 0.5 cm.
After the distribution of seeds in the grooves, a thin layer of earth is poured.
The container is covered with glass or a plastic bag.
The container is placed in a room with a temperature of 25 degrees: store the seed container indoors for about 2 weeks.

If planting in beds, then instead of watering, cover the ground with snow (10 cm layer). When it warms up outside, shoots will appear. After the first leaves appear, start picking: plant the plants at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other, after the appearance of 5 leaves, dive according to the 5x5 cm pattern. When the bushes get stronger, transplant them to a permanent place.

When and how to prune strawberries

Some gardeners have a question about whether to trim the withered leaves. It is better to remove dried leaves in a timely manner, because insects breed under it. Keep the following in mind as you work:

Trim on a dry, overcast morning or evening.
Use sharp secateurs, scissors.
Yellow, drying leaves, greens with spots are removed: do not cut the foliage at the root, leave bushes with stems, cuttings up to 10 cm long.
Trim off excess mustache.
If there are strong rosettes and you are interested in breeding with a mustache, then dig in the shoots so that they give roots.

Growing strawberries in winter at home

Many plant lovers experiment with planting strawberries at home: the culture is grown on a balcony or windowsill. To get sweet-tasting fruits, a delicacy rich in vitamins, study the principles of technology:

Planting rosettes is done in pots: for 1 bush you need a volume of 3 liters.
If one container is used, then plant one variety - this will have a good effect on the quality of the crop.
Drainage is laid at the bottom of the pot, then poured fertile soil(5 parts humus, 3 parts leafy soil).
Growing strawberries at home can be done using hydroponics: the substrate is coconut fiber, mineral wool or perlite.
Replace remontant bushes 1 time in six months, ampelous - 1 time per year.
Irrigation by drip method.
If there are long lashes and tall bushes, then tie them up or install supports.

Video

Most owners of their own plots necessarily allocate a place for garden strawberries in the hope of fragrant, fabulously tasty berries. But in reality, growing strawberries is not such an easy task; this demanding plant needs constant care. Weeding strawberry sprawling bushes is inconvenient, the mustache constantly climbs, the berries lie on the ground and rot. The size of the strawberries does not live up to expectations, and they may turn out to be watery or sour in taste.

It is not surprising that after the first unsuccessful independent attempts, all beginner gardeners have a question: how to grow strawberries correctly? There is no reason to get upset and nervous - you will definitely be able to grow good strawberry in open ground (in a garden bed not covered by a greenhouse). By following certain rules and knowing the secrets of success, even without experience, you can achieve the desired harvest from garden strawberry.

Even without experience, you can achieve the desired yield from garden strawberries

Features of growing garden strawberries in the beds:

the surface of the earth should be flat or with a slight slope facing the southwest;
in the lowlands, plants will get sick and bear fruit late due to the accumulation of cool air;
the southern slopes are not suitable due to the early snowmelt (strawberry bushes are left unprotected against spring frosts);
the bed should be located in a place closed from the winds, since a layer of snow of at least 25 cm is required for the wintering of strawberry bushes;
strawberries can be grown on the same bed for no more than four years (preferably two years) to avoid the accumulation of various fungi and viruses in the soil;
Strawberries bear fruit better in full sun, there are few berries in the shade, and they have a sour taste.
it is impossible to overmoisten the soil, but there should not be a lack of moisture;
dense planting will lead to a harvest of small berries, the distance between the bushes should be about half a meter (the more the better).

Video about growing strawberries

Preparatory work before growing strawberries in open ground

The composition of the soil for strawberries does not matter much; any soil is suitable for it. However, the best results can be achieved on chernozem soil with the addition of wood ash. Fertile peat soils, on the contrary, are not recommended for strawberries.

Beds in areas where ground water come close, make up to 40 cm high, and in dry areas - up to 10 cm high, or do not form ridges at all. One meter wide will be enough. Remove weeds and pest larvae from the bed, dig the ground to a depth of up to 25 cm and add fresh compost or humus to the soil.

The composition of the soil for strawberries does not matter much, any soil is suitable for it.

With the advent of the first ovary, sprinkle dry straw or sawdust under the shoots, then the berries will not lie on the ground and rot. To achieve a bountiful harvest of large berries, cut off the mustache during strawberry flowering and fruiting. When the entire crop is harvested, leave one mustache growing directly from the mother plant. Over the summer, a young bush will form from it, with the help of which it will be possible to renew the old plant. This update should be done every three years.

Before planting seedlings with a pitchfork, loosen the bed, level the surface and tamp a little. After that, you can abundantly water the soil with water and treat with copper sulphate.

From seedlings to the first berries - how to grow strawberries

The optimal period for transplantation is the second decade of July. It is best to transplant in cloudy weather or in the evening so that the plants acclimatize well overnight. For planting, choose the largest and most prolific rosettes located close to the mother bush, with a developed root system and three to four leaves. Having separated the outlet from the mother liquor, it, together with a wet clod of soil, is planted on a garden bed.

Try not to put the seedlings too deep into the ground, otherwise the roots will rot, and not too close to the surface, the roots may dry out. The heart of the bush should be in the ground. When planting, carefully straighten the roots of the outlet so as not to break them, and place them vertically in the hole. After planting the seedlings, water the soil abundantly.

Weeds actively multiply in open ground

The generally accepted technology for growing strawberries in beds (in open ground) also implies the correct preparing plants for wintering. When the last berries are harvested, remove all the weeds around the strawberries, sprinkle the ground with vegetable rubbish: branches, sawdust, wood chips. Such measures will help the bushes to get stronger, grow and stock up on strength before the winter period. When the strawberry leaves dry up, the bushes for the winter will need to be covered with fallen leaves or straw. In the spring, strawberries will need to be cleaned of last year's leaves and loosen the soil between the bushes.

Do not forget to water strawberries regularly, especially in the heat, and fertilize with nitrogen fertilizers and special complex fertilizers at the beginning of growth. Weeds actively multiply in open ground - you will need to constantly remove them and prevent the appearance of pests that can destroy the crop.

Video about growing large strawberries

See an interesting way how strawberries are grown on bulk beds with mulching (video in the corresponding tab). If the land on your site leaves much to be desired, bulk beds for strawberries will be the best option.

Ripe, juicy, surprisingly tasty strawberries on the table, while a blizzard is sweeping outside the window - this is a real luxury! In the middle of winter, you will not find fresh berries in every supermarket, and if you manage to find them, then their cost will be prohibitively high.

Create favorable conditions for growing berries

But after all, someone grows delicious strawberries at home on the windowsill, some enterprising gardeners even profit financially from this activity, turning growing berries at home into a profitable business. Breeding strawberries at home- a myth or a reality available to anyone?

Now there are various methods for growing strawberries in an apartment of any size. You can effectively use the free space in the house by planting strawberry seedlings filled with substrate, or growing bushes with berries in traditional flower pots and boxes. It all depends on the purpose for which you plan to start growing strawberries at home, and how much space you can allocate for this.

Opt for remontant strawberry varieties that can bear fruit multiple times

What do strawberries need for normal ripening? Room temperature, good ventilation and suitable soil. These conditions are easily met, because the apartments are warm at any time of the year (and if there are problems with heating, you can always buy an additional heater), air circulation can be provided with the help of a window, a special inexpensive substrate can be purchased at the store. So, you can also grow strawberries at home, if you take into account the most important points:

Opt for remontant strawberry varieties that can bear fruit multiple times. Most popular varieties: Yellow Wonder, Queen Elizabeth, Mount Everest.
When, purchased seeds should be placed in the refrigerator for 4 weeks, wrapped in a damp cloth and put in a plastic bag - then the hardened seeds, when planted in the ground for a week, will give friendly shoots.
Prepare a spacious pot for seedlings good layer drainage, as strawberries like frequent abundant watering, but it does not tolerate stagnant water.
It is recommended to plant strawberry seedlings at home in prepared soil either in autumn from August 15 to September 20, or in early spring.
Since this berry is afraid of the cold, do not keep it on the balcony, and protect it from frost.
From time to time, make potassium-phosphorus top dressing, and to form the ovaries, treat the plants with the special preparation "Ovary".

The ideal option for growing homemade strawberries is southern, well-lit windows.

The ideal option for growing homemade strawberries is southern, well-lit windows. With a lack of sunlight, plant growth may slow down, and the taste of the berries will deteriorate. However, you can create artificial lighting for your strawberry plantation using fluorescent lights. Strawberries will begin to bloom and bear fruit earlier with a long daylight hours, and the quality of the berries will increase significantly. Therefore, if you are concerned about how to grow strawberries at home in the shortest possible time, provide the plants with a continuous light day of about 14 hours.

Video about strawberries in January

How to pollinate strawberries at home?

Since strawberries at home do not have natural pollination, you will have to provide plants with artificial pollination during the flowering period, which can last several weeks. Produce artificial pollination flower stalks on strawberries at home, you can in two ways:

send a fan in the morning towards the flower stalks (under the influence of the wind, strawberries are pollinated in open ground);
pollinate each flower by hand, running over them daily with a soft paint brush.

As you can see, growing strawberries at home is available even to inexperienced gardeners and does not require significant financial costs. Difficulties can only arise with pollination, especially if you decide to plant extensive berry plantations, because it is not so easy to brush every small flower every day, and with a fan, successful pollination is difficult to guarantee.

Video on how to get strawberries in January

However, don't give up! Try, plant seedlings, take care of them - strawberries at home can bring several crops a year, delighting you and your loved ones ripe berries late autumn and frosty winter.