How to grow strawberries: planting methods and stages of development. How to grow strawberries in your garden

  • 14.06.2019

Strawberry- the berry in which there is both a great taste and benefits! Few people deny themselves the joy of tasting fresh fragrant strawberries, of course, if we are not talking about allergies. There is something to love about strawberries. After all, it is very tasty and sweet, and this berry also improves appetite, quenches thirst and helps to normalize bowel function.
Those who decide to grow strawberries in their area should know some of the subtleties, since it is a very capricious berry. In order for the harvest to succeed, you need to choose varieties that are resistant to diseases and all kinds of pests. Usually varieties with large fruits and excellent taste are selected. Strawberries are supposed to be sweet. By the way, in order to quickly and conveniently work in the country house, we recommend choosing a device such as a walk-behind tractor. You can buy a walk-behind tractor on the website shponka.com.ua.

How to choose a variety for planting?

As a rule, gardeners prefer three varieties of strawberries, namely early, mid-early, mid-late. The most favorite are the early varieties called: "Roxana", "Early Makherauha", "Pomegranate", "Beauty Zagorya", "Pavlovchanka" and "Desnyanka".
If we talk about mid-early ones, then here it is worth choosing "Pendant", "Zenith", "Festival", "Nadezhda", "Maria Makheraukha", "Redcoat" and "Nadezhda".
Of the mid-late varieties, it is better to dwell on the following varieties: Cinderella, Dobrynya, Lord, Gigantella (Dutch), Amulet, Troubadour (Scottish).

What kind of soil is needed for planting strawberries?

To grow strawberries, the soil must be slightly acidic, loamy or sandy, it must be saturated with humus and nutrients. Strawberries do not like clay soil. If the soil is sandy, then don't wait big harvest because the berries will be small due to lack of moisture in the soil. If near ground water, then the beds need to be made high.

Selecting a landing site

The main thing is that the site is flat, although strawberries will also grow well on not steep slopes that face the southwest. Lowlands for growing this berry are not suitable, because it does not tolerate high humidity, low temperatures and cold winds. Under such conditions, even if there is a crop, it will be sick and the berries will be small, because strawberries love heat and moisture, its root system freezes even at temperatures below 12 ° C, so the berry bushes hibernate under a dense layer of snow (the thickness of the layer should be from 25 cm).
It is advisable to use the same site for growing no more than four seasons. It is best to transplant the bushes to a new place after two seasons, which will help protect strawberries from fungal diseases and other diseases.

How to grow seedlings of strawberries?

Strawberries are propagated by rosettes, which you can grow yourself or buy in specialized stores. Rosettes grow on mother bushes, and it is better to choose those that are located next to the mother bush. Three sockets per shoot is enough for normal growth. If there are more rosettes, then the fruits will be from each of them, but only three will develop well. Usually one bush gives about 10-15 excellent outlets, so you will definitely be spared from buying seedlings.
At that moment, when the outlet is just beginning to form, you need to strengthen its roots in the soil. Further, it begins to feed thanks to its own root system. If you wish, you can always deposit sockets that have newly formed. Do not combine berry picking and strawberry propagation. It is because of this that flower stalks are necessarily removed on the mother bush.

How and when should strawberries be planted?

Planting is best done around the middle of July and it is advisable that you do this in the evening, because then the seedlings will be able to acclimatize at night. For planting, it is better to choose seedlings with already formed several leaves, a developed heart, and also a root system. Carefully separate the rosette from the mother bush and plant it in open ground, but first spread the roots well.
Make a small hole in the soil, and inside it a small mound. Plant a rosette on the mound and sprinkle the roots with earth. For watering, it is better to use a watering can and water it using the rain method so as not to fill the outlet with water. If everything is done correctly, then by winter the seedlings will be strong, acclimatized and adapt well to the ground, and in the summer you will harvest a magnificent harvest of delicious berries.

Medium-early and early varieties are best planted so that the rows are fairly close to each other, the distance between them should be about 60 centimeters, and the distance between the bushes should be about 15 centimeters. Thanks to this method of planting in the first year you will collect good harvest, well, then everything will depend only on how the bush takes root and develops. When the first crop is harvested, you need to remove the bushes through one so that the distance between them becomes almost 30 centimeters. The best harvest is usually harvested in the second year.
As for late varieties, they need to be planted differently. In the first year, the distance between rows should also be 60 centimeters, but between the bushes it should be almost 20 centimeters. After every second bush is removed after the first harvest, the distance between them should be about 40 centimeters.

How is strawberry pollination done?

Strawberries self-pollinate, so you don't have to do anything here. If desired, you can pollinate yourself by using a rolled-up cotton swab or paint brush. Such pollination is best done in lunch time and on a warm day. If there is a bee apiary nearby, then additional pollination is not required at all, since the bees will help make your harvest good, and the berries will be the same size.
Spray the bushes with a solution of honey during the flowering period. This will help attract the bees. To get such a solution, you need to mix one teaspoon of honey (necessarily natural) with a liter of water. The resulting solution must be poured into a spray bottle, shaken and sprayed with each bush.

How to care for strawberry bushes?

The frequency and time of watering is mainly dependent on the weather, so you need to water the strawberries as needed. During rains, it is better to cover each bush with a film. Usually, watering is done in the early morning, so that the bushes can dry out by evening. Before the flowering period, the bushes need to be watered by sprinkling, and during the fruiting period, their roots are watered.
If the weather is dry and warm, then you need to water for 12 days, once a day, while the water should not be cold, its temperature should be about 20 ° C.
During the setting of the first fruits, it is necessary to add and mulch. Straw is placed under the bush or sawdust or you can use film or tapes. Thanks to this, the ripening berries will be protected from dirt, since a barrier will be created between them and the ground. The second time the bedding in the form of peat or sawdust should be done in October. The thickness of the bedding layer should be about 5 centimeters.
Experienced gardeners will say that it is best to make three beds with strawberries on the plot, the first of which will give the first crop, the second for the second year of yield, and the third bed will give you a crop for the third year. In order for everything to work out just like that, plant one bed every year. When the crop of the third year is harvested, all plantings should be dug up from this site and burned, and young seedlings should be planted in a new place, and it is desirable that green crops be grown in this place before. Good luck!

Lettuce, as the earliest and most unpretentious green crop, has always been held in high esteem by gardeners. Spring plantings most gardeners usually start by planting lettuce, parsley, and radishes. Recently, the desire for healthy eating and a large selection of greens in supermarkets make gardeners wonder which of these plants can be grown in their beds? In this article we will talk about the nine most interesting, in our opinion, varieties of lettuce.

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V middle lane April is the time when the first flowering of plants in gardens and parks begins. The constant soloists of the spring that has come into its own are bulbous primroses. But also among ornamental shrubs you can meet those that will delight you with fragrant flowers that enliven a still inconspicuous garden. The main riot of flowering ornamental shrubs falls on the month of May, and most of them, as a rule, bloom in mid-May.

Salad "Uzbekistan" with green radish, boiled meat and eggs - a classic dish of Uzbek cuisine, known to many since the days of the USSR. In any Uzbek restaurant for a snack, you could order this unpretentious, but very tasty salad with meat and radish. If you have never cooked this dish before, I advise you to try it - you will like it and fall into the favorite category! You can diversify the taste a little and add finely chopped cilantro, parsley and a pod of red chili pepper.

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Let's try to figure out how to grow strawberries on the site with our own hands, but before that we will try to find out what this berry actually is. Most gardeners, mistakenly, call varietal large berries strawberries, and wild strawberries - wild forest and garden small-fruited varieties. Such a view is fundamentally wrong. Since ancient times, the people called strawberries a variety of strawberries, the fruits of which were round in shape. When the large-fruited berries of garden strawberries, which we now grow everywhere, were brought out, in everyday life they continue to be called strawberries in the old fashioned way.

Strawberries are a type of strawberry and are round in shape.

In fact, strawberries are a rare, rare species of dioecious plants. Unlike monoecious strawberries, its peduncles are longer, the fruits are unevenly colored and very small, and the veins on the leaves stand out more clearly. All modern cultivated large-fruited varieties correctly called strawberries, and precisely garden strawberries We grow everything on our own plots.

What varieties are best for planting?

Strawberries are the most popular and beloved berry in Russia. This is not surprising, because it has a great taste and is a real storehouse of useful vitamins and minerals. In terms of the amount of vitamin C contained, only blackcurrant can compete with it. In five or six medium-sized strawberries, there is as much of it as in one small orange. Rich in strawberries and folic acid, which is more in it than in grapes or raspberries. In addition, it normalizes the functioning of the intestines, strengthens the walls of blood vessels and improves immunity.

Popular varieties of garden strawberries (strawberries): ("marmalade", "pandora", "honey", "small-fruited").

The birthplace of this beautiful berry in all respects − South America, but today it is grown on all continents. There are dozens of varieties of garden strawberries, and their list, thanks to the work of breeders, is constantly updated. Gardeners who grow strawberries on their plots have to take into account many subtleties when caring for this berry, since strawberries are very capricious and do not tolerate neglect. To collect a good, self-grown crop, you need to choose those varieties that have increased resistance to diseases and pests, choose the right soil, planting site and follow the basic rules for caring for the queen of berries, which is garden strawberries.

Experienced gardeners, in order to get a strawberry crop, grow early, mid-early and mid-late varieties on their plots all summer. From early varieties grown in our climate, it is worth noting such as "Roxana", "Pomegranate", "Beauty Zagorya", "Early Makherauha", "Pavlovchanka" and "Desnyanka". Among the mid-early ones, we can recommend “Coulomb”, “Zenith”, “Nadezhda”, “Mary Maheraukha”, “Festival”, “Hope”, “Redcoat”. Of the mid-late strawberry varieties, Cinderella, Dobrynya, Gigantella (Dutch), Lord, Troubadour (Scottish), Amulet have proven themselves well.

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What kind of soil and garden space is needed for a good strawberry crop?

In order to collect a decent harvest of garden strawberries with your own hands, the soil on which it is planned to grow it must combine the following features: to be slightly acidic, sandy or loamy, it must be saturated with nutrients and humus. On sandy and clay soil, due to lack of moisture, the berries will grow small. Soil with high acidity, limestone and saline soil is also not suitable. If there is groundwater on the site, then the beds must be made high.

The most fertile and fruitful for strawberries is considered humus, rich organic matter priming. It is obtained from the decomposition of plant leaves and manure, when they are composted: they are sprinkled with several layers of soil, watered and allowed to rot for a year.

For the successful cultivation of strawberries, the following basic soil composition has proven itself well: in equal parts sawdust prepared in advance, humus, turf and peat are mixed, to which a little sand is added. Taking such a composition as a basis, experienced gardeners vary it and, based on own experience, select additional components, taking into account many factors and often inventing something new and their own.

It is better that the site for planting strawberries is flat, although on not very steep slopes facing the southwest, they will also grow well. Grow in the lowlands good strawberries it won't work because she can't stand it high humidity, low temperatures and cold winds. Under such conditions, even if it is possible to get a crop, it will be diseased, and the fruits will be small. Strawberries love moderate humidity and warmth, its delicate root system freezes even at soil temperatures below 12 ° C, so in winter it is necessary to ensure that the beds with berry bushes are under a layer of snow, the thickness of which should be more than 25 cm.

It is important to observe the following features: new plantings should not be made in the soil on which raspberries, tomatoes, potatoes grew in the previous 3 years, otherwise, most likely, it will infect garden strawberries with diseases typical of these crops. On the same site, it is desirable to grow strawberries for no more than four seasons in a row. It is best to transplant bushes to new places after two seasons. These, it would seem, simple rules will help to effectively protect strawberries from the characteristic garden plants diseases and fungal diseases.

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How to grow strawberry seedlings with your own hands?

Strawberries are propagated by rosettes. They can be purchased in specialized stores or grown with your own hands. Rosettes grow in large numbers on mother bushes. To obtain high-quality seedlings, you need to choose those that are located close to the mother bush. For normal growth seedlings, three rosettes are enough for one shoot. If you take a larger number of outlets, the fruits will appear on each of them, but only three will still develop well. One bush usually produces about 12-15 well-developed rosettes.

It is necessary to strengthen the roots of the outlet into the ground when it is just beginning to form. After planting, they will very quickly begin to develop and receive nutrition through their own root system. To avoid excessive thickening of the beds, it is better to plant newly formed sockets. No need to combine strawberry propagation and harvesting. To do this, on the mother bushes, it is necessary to regularly remove flower stalks with your own hands.

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When and how are strawberries planted?

Strawberries should be planted in mid-July. It is best to do this in the evening so that she can acclimatize at night. For planting, select specimens on which several leaves with developed hearts have formed and which have a relatively strong root system. Having well straightened the roots, the outlet is carefully separated from the mother bush, after which it is planted in open ground.

Before that, a small hole is made in the soil, and in it a small mound, on which a socket is planted, and its roots are carefully sprinkled with earth. To avoid flooding sockets with water, it is better to use a watering can or water strawberries by sprinkling. If everything is done correctly, then by the onset of winter the seedlings will be well prepared, acclimatize and adapt to the ground, and the next summer after planting the seedlings will give a rich harvest of very tasty berries.
Seedlings of early and medium varieties of garden strawberries are planted in the ground at a small distance from each other, so that the intervals between the beds are approximately 60 cm, and between the bushes - 15 cm. This method of planting in the first season will help to harvest a good harvest. Subsequently, the yield of the plantation will depend on how well the bushes are rooted and develop. When the first crop is harvested, the bushes are removed through one so that the distance between the remaining specimens is approximately 30 cm.

The technology for planting late varieties in the ground is somewhat different. In the first year, the distance between the rows of strawberries should be left the same - 60 cm, but between the bushes it should be about 20 cm. Accordingly, after harvesting the first crop and removing every second bush, the distance between the remaining specimens will become about 40 cm.

We are looking forward to the onset of May to enjoy the most delicious, perhaps, berry -. It has already become customary for us to harvest from spring to late autumn, but sometimes you want to taste the sweetness of your favorite berry on a cold winter day!

Alternatively, you can, of course, buy a package of strawberries for the price of gold in a supermarket. But doubts that this berry will be useful are very large - less doubt leaves the thought of the presence in it of chemistry that our body does not need at all. I offer another option: grow garden strawberries on the window and give yourself and your children a piece of summer in the middle of winter.

Is it possible to get a crop of garden strawberries in a room?

In this case, I really like the saying, for which I am often grateful in my life: “If you really want to, you can fly into space.” So with a strong desire, guided by these recommendations, you can get beautiful sweet berries at any time of the year.

For this you need:

  • high-quality live (not frigo!) seedlings, which we get from the first row of mustaches;
  • lamps (better) for additional illumination of plants;
  • a place on the windowsill;
  • This article.

How to "relocate" strawberries from the garden to the house?

Preparing seedlings for home growing in any case, it should be done long before the onset of winter.

Option 1

  1. When the garden strawberry bushes form a mustache, fill the container with drainage hole(for example, a disposable glass or a soft plastic pot) with earth and sand in a ratio of 1: 1.
  2. We dig it in level with the ground (but so that the edges of the container rise a little), direct the first outlet into the container, pin it with an ordinary hairpin or a wire bent in the form of a hairpin, and constantly water it. The earth must never dry out. otherwise the plant will die quickly.
  3. 3 weeks later when young plant rooted, we cut it off from the mother liquor and continue to water. At this point, watering is even more important; he should be at least 1 time per day, it is better in the evening, and on hot sunny days you can water it 2 times - in the morning and in the evening.
  4. As soon as buds form on the plant, they must be remove so that the outlet gains maximum strength.
  5. We are seedling cups leave in the ground until the first frost, and as soon as it froze, we take them out of the ground, fill the holes formed with earth and slightly compact.
  6. We carefully immerse the containers with plants in a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes, let the water drain, and bring them into a room with a temperature not higher than + 10 ° C for 2-3 days. Then we bring the sockets into the room and put to the south window.
  7. Additional lighting is required because the length of the day is too short. The plant will need additional lighting from 6-7 am to 19-20 pm, that is, daylight hours for the plant should be 13-14 hours. To do this, we use a phytolamp.

Option 2

This method is much simpler and less labor intensive.

1. Before the onset of frost, we dig up rooted young rosettes, remove substandard foliage (that is, leaves that are mechanically damaged, old), but so that the plant must have 2-3 real young leaves.


Why purchased soil mixture? It’s more reliable this way: garden soil needs to be heated in the oven to destroy pathogens, and the finished earth is sterile (of course, if we talk about quality purchased soil).


3. It is very important when planting not to deepen the heart (apical bud), which is located in the center of the outlet, otherwise the plant will simply rot.


4. We water the seedlings and bring them into the room, but for the first few days we do not put them on a sunny southern window, but we determine them in more gentle conditions (northern, eastern). After 3-5 days, we rearrange to the south. Just like in option 1, be sure to use additional lighting.

What varieties of strawberries are suitable for home growing?

The experimental practice that I have shown that the easiest to care for and the most resistant to diseases in room conditions are the varieties NSD "Albion" and "Aisha".


Variety "Albion"

I read more about these and other varieties of garden strawberries.

What conditions need to be created for plants to grow and bear fruit at home?

1. Lighting

As I said, we need a phytolamp for daily supplementary illumination for 13-14 hours a day. If we neglect this point, then a well-leafed plant will grow, but we will not see flowering (and harvest) in this case.

2. Temperature regime

The temperature on the windowsill must be at least +20°C. Right on the windowsill and not in the room. If the temperature is not observed, then our plants can weaken and get sick with fungal diseases.

3. Watering

Irrigation mode is important to choose so so that the earthen ball does not dry out, but in no case do not allow stagnant water.

4. Mandatory transshipment of plants

25-30 days after the “relocation” to the house, the plants need to be transplanted into a large container (1 liter in volume), since the root system has already developed strongly, and the outlet has become cramped in a small glass. This is what the plant looks like before transplanting:

... and so - after:


5. Artificial pollination of flowers

An important condition for the formation of the ovary and the development of a full-fledged berry is. We make it by hand with an ordinary soft brush.


If this procedure is neglected or performed with insufficient quality, we will get deformed berries:


Do strawberries need fertilizing?

Like any plant, garden strawberries need nutrition. Under natural conditions, plants get it from the ground in which plant residues have rotted. In a room, in a limited amount of soil, strawberries do not have such an opportunity, so care must be taken without fail.
  1. We make the first top dressing ("Strawberry" or other complex fertilizer for garden strawberries) half dose(100 grams of solution during watering), When did the first buds appear?.
  2. We carry out the next feeding after the first berries were removed, the same fertilizer in the same dosage.
Do not be embarrassed and worry that the berry will accumulate nitrates or other harmful elements in itself, since this fertilizer will go to the plant itself, and not to the berry.

When can we expect the first harvest?

Experience shows that in winter period under room conditions, the period from planting to flowering is 30-35 days, and the first berries ripen in 30-35 days from the beginning of flowering. It turns out that from the moment of planting to the ripening of berries, an average of about 65 days passes.


Here are our first berries:


Homemade strawberry crop "Albion"

What is sick indoor strawberries and how to treat it?

If we adhered to all the recommended landing rules, and those in the house houseplants are not affected by pests, then strawberries are not in danger of being affected by them. But besides pests, there are no less dangerous fungal diseases- such as, for example.

Why might there be problems? The air in the room during the heating season is dry and warm, and we, knowing that this is unhealthy, begin to increase the humidity. For us, this is correct, but for garden strawberries, which at home are not blown by the wind, but are under the influence of cold from window glass high humidity can cause powdery mildew. It's white fungal plaque on leaves, stems, and then berries.

To prevent the disease, you can use a drug that is safe for humans. We spray them with plants once a week. On the leaves, of course, white marks form, but the plant will be reliably protected.


Growing garden strawberries on the window is not difficult, the main thing is to really want to! Good luck and great harvests!