When to plant a cedar from a nut. Growing cedar from nuts - easy and simple

13.06.2019

Cedar is truly the king of the Siberian forests. In many ways, the forests of this frosty area won their popularity precisely thanks to this tree. And the clean air and the aroma that it gives.

Cedar is a very beautiful coniferous tree that is resistant to frost, therefore, you often want to have such a plant in your garden, turning it into a piece of home Siberia. How realistic is it to grow cedar at home? How to grow a cedar from a nut at home? Or is it better to use special seeds for planting from a gardening store? All these questions have answers. But first things first.

Features of the cedar plant

Cedar - quite powerful and big plant with a thick stem. Under natural habitat conditions, the height of this coniferous tree can reach 40 meters. And if we add a lush crown of a tree to this height, the question arises, what should be the area of \u200b\u200bthe site in order to afford to grow a cedar? Yes, if you use natural-looking seedlings, you should take into account that the tree will take up a large area. Not everyone can afford it.

Articles about indoor and ornamental plants

It was for such cases that a breed of undersized cedars was bred, which will fit in a compact area, and will grow no less beautiful and luxurious than a tree in the Siberian forest.

In nature, there are 5 types of Siberian cedar. There are much more decorative varieties, and some of them are able to bear fruit - pine nuts. It is these varieties that will be discussed below.

Why do many people want to grow cedar at home

Cedar - unusual ornamental plant that will delight with its attractive appearance both summer and winter. This is one of the reasons why gardeners are so passionate about growing a tree in their yard. AT winter time cedar stands out with its green crown over snow-white snowdrifts, which gives the site an unusual aesthetic appearance.

Secondly, the cedar gives fruits - pine nuts, which are not only a tasty product. From pine nuts you can make pine nut oil, which has healing properties. Also, tree resin promotes wound healing. Well, many people know firsthand about the benefits of pine needles. From the needles, you can make various tinctures, inhalations, or simply enjoy the smell of coniferous trees while relaxing in the shade of a tree.

Given all these advantages, and the benefits that this tree gives, many people want to grow cedar from a nut at home.

How to grow a cedar from a nut at home?

Nuts purchased at a grocery store or market are not suitable for growing cedar, as they are cooked for consumption by boiling in salted water. Your best bet is to find a flat, pleasant-smelling cedar cone with no signs of mold or staleness.

Remove the nuts from the cone and rinse with warm water. Additionally, you can rub the shell with a toothbrush or sponge - this will wash off the resin, which blocks moisture from accessing the core itself.
After you have cleaned the nuts of excess resin, you need to stratify, that is, keep them in cold (about 0 ° C) water for three days, changing the water once a day. After this time, you will notice that some of the seeds have risen to the surface of the water, and some have sunk to the bottom. Floating nuts are empty or poor quality, even when proper fit they will not sprout, but sunken seeds can and should be planted in the ground.
After three days, drain the water and mix the nuts with peat, forest soil or coarse washed sand, then slightly moisten the mixture and place it in wooden box with air holes or a perforated flower pot. After all the manipulations, the container with nuts can be removed in a dark, cool place - now the seeds should lie for several months (from 3 to 6 to simulate a natural winter) at a temperature of about + 4 ° C. Once every couple of weeks, take out the seeds and moisten the soil. Try to guess the time so that the planting of seeds takes place in March-April.
After a long preparation of seeds, you can finally start planting. The soil is better to use natural forest, but in the absence of such, you can buy in flower shop special soil for conifers. The volume of the pot should be small, about 200 grams, and the planting depth should be about 2 cm. Seeds can be sprinkled on top with needles or sawdust. Protect the sown seeds from high temperatures and bright sun: it is better to put the pot with the future tree in a shaded place with a temperature of 18-20 ° C. And, of course, the earth should be periodically moistened, at the same time preventing the seeds from “flooding”.
It is best to plant the maximum number of seeds, because only 10-15% of them will sprout. Depending on the quality of the seeds, the first sprouts will sprout in 2-3 months and will be barely noticeable - up to five years, the cedar grows very slowly, and the growth is up to 6-7 cm. By the third year of life, the sprout can reach 15 cm, and after five to six years, it can be planted in open space.
Cedar loves well-drained rocky or loamy soils. Therefore, it is advisable to mix the soil at the site of the proposed planting of cedar with sand and gravel.

Caring for young cedar trees

AT summer time it is necessary to carry out the adaptation of young plants to the air and the sun. To do this, they are taken out into the garden. After that, they can be gradually planted in light, loose and nutritious soil. Young cedars successfully tolerate the transplant procedure. They can be planted close to each other. The next cedar transplant will be transferred at the age of three. This procedure is recommended to be carried out in the spring. Older plants are transplanted very rarely. Such frequent procedures can lead to drying of the roots. As a result of this, cedars may not take root at all.

If, nevertheless, a transplant is necessary for an adult plant, then first you need to create a root ball. Before transplanting, about a year in advance, an incision with a diameter of 1 m is made around the tree. Only horizontal roots are incised. The deep root system is not affected. Tree replanting is preferred in early spring, since only half of the seedlings take root during the autumn transplant.

Only in this case, you can wait for fruiting.

Trees that have reached the age of one year require shade. best place planting young plants will be a shaded area in the depths of the garden. Also, seedlings can be shaded with a covering or other material. As for watering, the cedar is a moisture-loving plant, but an excessive excess of moisture can lead to its death. Therefore, proper care is important here. Grown seedlings also require proper care. First of all, it is necessary to mulch the soil around the plants. The trunk circle must be mulched. As this, you can use sawdust, fallen needles and foliage.

That's all the secrets on how to grow a cedar from a nut at home. Caring for a cedar at home after planting is not a problem. Trees should only be watered when the soil dries out. Cedar responds positively to top dressing. Nitrogen-potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are best suited for this. Many experienced gardeners lay stones around the cedar trunk. Over time, fungal growth forms under them, which has a beneficial effect on the growth and development of the tree. In order to learn how to grow a cedar from a nut at home, you can watch the instructional video material.

A bright representative of evergreen coniferous trees is a member of the order Pine family. Siberian cedar (lat. Pínus sibírica) also known as Siberian cedar pine. The culture is widespread on the territory of Eastern and Western Siberia. Distinctive feature coniferous tree - a massive, multi-tiered crown with large branches. The whorled structure (a special arrangement of branches, in which several leaves depart from each shoot) makes the plant especially attractive. The slow development of culture is caused by a short period of vegetative growth - only 45 days a year. Under favorable conditions, pine lives up to 800 years. An adult representative often reaches about 40 meters in length. There are cases when the diameter of the Siberian cedar was more than 3 meters. You can not be afraid to grow a bulky, giant tree at home. Breeders have bred no less useful dwarf subspecies of the culture.

For growing at home, low-growing varieties of Siberian cedar have been bred.

There are several reasons for growing a conifer at home:

Special decorative effect of evergreen culture.
Nutritious and healthy fruits.
Therapeutic effect of nuts and needles.

Location

The tree has a very branched crown. Therefore, you should choose a free spacious area of \u200b\u200bthe site.

The minimum distance between green spaces should be at least six meters. From the foundation of buildings should retreat 3 meters. Dwarf representatives can be planted a little closer.

Optimum lighting

Siberian cedar pine prefers brightly lit areas. Young representatives can perfectly tolerate semi-shaded areas. The plant is frost-resistant and not demanding on microclimatic conditions.

Watering rules

Cedar Siberian pine belongs to moisture-loving crops. In the summer season, the tree absorbs a lot of moisture. Therefore, in the hot months, it is necessary to water the plant regularly as the soil dries.

In autumn, in preparation for the dormant phase, watering should be reduced. You can notice a slowdown in the process of draining the earthen coma.

AT winter period a dormant plant planted in a container practically does not need watering. The soil mixture in the container may dry out from low level air humidity. Trees absorb moisture from the ground in very small quantities.

Siberian cedar is a moisture-loving culture. But excessive soil moisture or stagnant water will destroy the pine tree.

Excessive soil moisture can kill the plant.

Cedar pine in winter

The absence of a dormant stage leads to a slowdown in growth in the next growing season. Therefore, for several months a year, it is necessary to provide the coniferous representative with cooler climatic conditions.

Siberian cedar, planted in a container, can be transferred to a glazed loggia, cellar, veranda or winter Garden. Watering should be done only as needed. With the onset of spring heat, it is necessary to gradually move the flowerpot to a sunny place.

How to transplant Siberian cedar

Transplanting seedlings with a closed root system for a constant time should be immediately after the retreat of morning frosts - in early spring. You can also plant the acquired Siberian cedar in the fall, immediately after the end of the growing season.

The ideal age for transplanting pine trees is around 5 years old. The height of the trunk is not more than one meter. The stem diameter is about two centimeters. When planting, there is a chance to keep the root system intact.

With large representatives of conifers it is much more difficult. Transplantation of an adult cedar is performed, as a rule, in winter. In the cold season, you can dig a large earthen ball and save most of the rhizome. As a rule, the root system of the cedar is severely damaged.

The ideal age for transplanting pine is 5 years.

During the recovery period, the plant releases a component that attracts pests. If the culture is severely weakened, bark beetles can penetrate the bark and lay larvae. Save the pine will not succeed. Therefore, replanting an overgrown cedar is extremely risky.

Before planting, you should:

Weed the weeds and carefully work the soil around the seat.
Dig a hole right size. It is necessary to focus on the size of the root system with an earthen clod. The depth of the hole should exceed the size of the cedar roots by 40%.
The bottom of the hole must be carefully loosened.
Lay out the drainage in a thick layer (about 15 cm). As a material, you can use crushed stone, gravel, shells, bottle caps.
The ideal composition of the soil mixture is greenhouse soil with peat and leaf humus. You can add organic ingredients. Ideal bedding made of pine forest.
For the subsequent tying of the seedling, a wooden support should be driven into the hole.

How to cut

For the natural formation of a dense, even crown, the plant should be provided with free growth on open area. coniferous plant unpretentious. Therefore, additional intervention in the development process is not required. It is enough to periodically clean the coniferous from damaged and dead branches.

If a plant is used as an element garden design, you can give the crown the appropriate shape. Pruning plants under five years old is not recommended. Best time years for pruning - in early spring.

It is advisable to use a sharp garden pruner. The instrument should be thoroughly disinfected with alcohol. Affected areas must be treated with a healing component (var).

Cedar pine is an excellent representative of the flora for creating dwarf miniatures.

An amazing miniature of the Siberian pine.

With the help of oriental techniques, you can create a skillful bonsai. The flexibility, elegance of the trunk and shoots contributes to the design of a reduced exact copy of a coniferous tree.

Features of planting a tree can be found in the video:

Cedar pine in open ground

For growing on outdoors it is enough to provide a minimum of conditions:

open area;
uniform solar illumination;
loamy and loose soil;
absence ground water. Often, young conifers develop well on the site, and adult representatives die. The main reason is that the root system is damaged by the accumulation of fluid in top layer soil.

Siberian cedar is a very stable crop. The plant is not afraid of severe frosts.

Siberian pine is a frost-resistant plant.

For the winter period, it is not necessary to cover the plant with mulch and protective material. In open soil, cedar does not need regular feeding and pruning.

Planting cedar at home

Flower pot

The coniferous plant has a large and branched root system. Therefore, the choice of container should be taken seriously. For young cedars, it is advisable to choose small containers with drainage holes and side openings for air circulation.

The kit must include a tray to collect excess liquid. As the root system and crown develop, a larger capacity must be used.

Ideal soil

Cedar pine prefers loose and fertile soil. For cultivation, it is not recommended to use mixtures containing peat. A multi-component fossil causes root system rotting.

To protect the plant from pests, a little oxidizing agent should be added to the soil. You can use a natural solution citric acid and pine needles.

Feeding cedar

During planting, a growth biostimulator should be added to the soil. The perfect combination components contained in the preparation "Kornevin".

The plant does not require regular feeding. It is advisable not to experiment with chemicals. Preparations for indoor crops can harm conifers. Especially for the cultivation of cedar, products with a natural composition have been bred.

To feed the cedar, you should use a special biohumus.

Biohumus "Kedronic", made from the waste of pine nuts, is ideal for cedar wood. The composition of the fertilizer also includes Siberian soil. The drug can not only be applied to the soil, but also sprayed on cedar needles. It has a particularly effective effect after the appearance of yellowness on the leaves.

Cedar diseases and main pests

bark beetles

Most often, cedar affects an ordinary engraver. Mass attacks of conifers begin at the end of May. Spotting pests is pretty easy. The beetles make small holes in the bark.

Cedar will produce resin for self fight with pests. Failure to act will lead to the penetration of females inside the stem. After the larvae have been deposited, it is almost impossible to save the tree.

As preventive measures, you can use systemic insecticides, inject into the trunk by biological means protection, as well as timely clean the culture from the affected areas.

Mass attacks of bark beetles can destroy a pine tree.

Pine Hermes

On the initial stage can mechanical method collect and destroy all affected areas. If the insect population has covered the entire plant, it is necessary to treat the soil with "Aktara" and spray on the cedar "Decis" or "Iskra". Spraying should be repeated after a month. You will need to continue the procedure until the pests are completely eliminated.

Pine is also affected by scale insects, moths and aphids. Systemic insecticides should be used for treatment.

Pests rarely appear on a healthy plant. Therefore, biological preparations should be purchased in advance to strengthen the immunity of a coniferous tree.

needle rust

A characteristic disease for a warm and humid climate. Yellow marks appear on the tree. After a while, a white coating forms on the bubble points. Fungal cells infect all parts of the tree. At the initial stage of infection, the needles will turn yellow and begin to fall off.

As a rule, infection occurs from thistle and coltsfoot. It is necessary to destroy all plants in the area that contribute to the spread of spores of the fungus. Affected branches must be removed and destroyed. Cleaning the tree will help prevent further spread.

Resin cancer or seryanka

The culture should be immediately cleared of spore-infested areas. For prevention, it is necessary to clean the plant from dry branches and stems with cancerous ulcers. Inaction attracts many pests. A weakened pine can die from insect infestation.

Allergic manifestations

Pine nuts - very useful product. People with individual intolerance may experience allergic reaction and anaphylactic shock.

It is quite difficult to determine the relationship with the cedar fruit. The reaction to peeled nuts can occur only after two days. The first sign is the appearance of a metallic taste.

Not only fruits can cause a reaction. The so-called wood allergy affects the upper respiratory tract. Redness and itching appear on the skin and mucous membranes. After the onset of characteristic symptoms, direct contact with the culture should be avoided.

Breeding options

There are several ways to grow a pine tree. To breed coniferous cedar, you need to purchase seeds or seedlings in a garden nursery.

Planting cedars from seeds

Long term cultivation. Planting material must be treated with potassium permanganate. As a soil, a mixture with coarse-grained sand should be used. Nuts should be placed in the holes and sprinkled with a small layer of sawdust. To stimulate growth, you can place the seed container in a cold room.

Periodically you need to moisten the soil.

Germination of Siberian cedar seeds.

After the first shoots appear, you can transfer the container to a warm room. After strengthening the sprouts, young cedar should be dived into separate containers.

You can experiment and sow treated seeds in open soil. But this is very risky. Often planting material does not germinate.

Growing cedar seedlings

It is preferable to buy seedlings with a closed root system. The ideal age of planting material is three-year-old trees. The average size of a pine tree should be from thirty centimeters to three meters, depending on the subspecies.

Flowering and fruiting of cedar pine

Cedar do not produce inflorescences. Nuts are formed as seeds.

You will be able to try nuts from your cedar only after 60 years.

Adult crops begin to bear fruit only at the age of 60 years. To speed up the process, you can pin a tree. The ripening process of the cones occurs in autumn. As they form, most of the fruit falls to the ground.

How to choose Siberian cedar

Planting material should be purchased from nurseries specializing in coniferous trees. Siberian cedar seedlings 15-25 cm high can be purchased at a price of 50 rubles. Grown seedlings in a container with a closed root system sell an average of 1,500 rubles. Siberian cedar seeds "Shepard" are in the catalogs of online stores. The cost of one package is 42 rubles.

Today we will talk about exactly how to grow cedars from pine nuts, because. already very many people know what a KEDR tree is for our Earth, for a person, and in general for the whole Universe.

cedar cones

It is best to plant cedars in autumn - this is natural for them, because. in winter, in the cold, they need to go through the so-called stratification - this is when the nuts freeze, fall asleep, and wake up and sprout in the spring.

Cedars do not like swamping, but like well-drained soils, i.e. where water does not stagnate. Therefore, if water can stagnate in the place where you are going to plant pine nuts, we recommend that you sprinkle the bed with sand on top (about 1 cm thick, but then you need to reduce the depth of planting nuts).

You need to plant nuts to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. It is not necessary to make holes at all - just take a nut and stick it into the ground with your finger, pushing it a little). It is better to plant with a sharp tip down.

If the situation does not allow planting cedars in the fall, then you can plant them in the spring, but for this, the nuts must lie in the refrigerator or in the cellar all winter in order to undergo artificial stratification. How we did it: at the beginning of winter, we took pine nuts, mixed them with wet sand, put it all in boxes and put it in the refrigerator. There they lay with us until spring, in the spring we planted them in the ground.

The cedars sprout unusually and very nicely)) First, the root goes down from the nut, and then a sprout begins to hatch from the root, lifting the nut to the top, i.e. small green sprouts with nuts on top will be visible from the ground. And birds like it very much, especially crows. Therefore, in the spring, when the cedars begin to sprout (and it is possible immediately after planting), be sure to cover them with branches, otherwise their feathered friends will peck them.

Here is another proven and well-proven landing method.

Need to find or make your own wooden box with a side height of about 25 cm, there must be holes at the bottom for the free passage of water. Sawdust is placed in the box (any, but ideally, of course, coniferous), mixed with coniferous needles.

We stick pine nuts at 0.5-1 cm. They can be planted often, at a distance of 1 cm from each other. (cedars grow best in such an environment, so do not worry, they will have enough there). We pour peat 1 cm thick on top (this may not be done, but without it it will be necessary to water much more often in the summer).

The box is outside in winter.

In the spring of planting, it is necessary to shelter something from birds (branches, a rigid mosquito net, etc.).

For the first year, cedars cannot be transplanted. Transplantation is performed at 2-3 years of age. When digging up small cedars with the last method of planting, their roots are not damaged or broken.

Here is what experienced people advise:

To begin with, cedar seeds - you need to saturate with moisture. At the same time, wash the substances from the nuts that prevent their germination. falling asleep Pine nuts in a bucket or basin, and - pour hot water. Not boiling water, of course. Such that the hand does not burn.

After an hour, when the nuts are slightly soaked, we will wash them a little. Just three of them in the water, among themselves.

A certain amount of resin and substances that interfere with germination will pass into the water. What it will become black - it must be seen!

We wash the pine nuts, pour them again warm water- and leave it for a couple of hours. Then - wash the nuts and again - change the water. Thus, we soak cedar seeds - about a day. By this time, most of the mature nuts will have sunk to the bottom of the bucket.

Well, we have done the preliminary preparation of cedar seeds.

Wet, moisture-saturated cedar seeds - lay out in glass jars. The size of the jar depends on the number of cedar seeds. The jar can be filled with seeds - half. The maximum is 2/3. It is best to take a twisting jar. Having wrapped the lid, we make holes in it, with a knife or a carnation, for air access.

Packed in this way, cedar seeds are ready for stratification. Now it remains for us to find a place for their stratification, with a suitable temperature. I usually stratify nuts in the cellar. The temperature there is about 0°C. You can - and stratify pine nuts in the refrigerator. But the effect will be worse.

In the first years, the cedar grows very slowly - the growth is only a few centimeters.

With early stratification pine nuts- you can hide a jar in the garden. The main thing is to cover with some foliage. Direct sunlight can ruin everything.

In general, stratification occurs - at temperatures from +3 to -1. Freezing, even strong, cedar seeds tolerate well - with gradual thawing.

Do not forget that pine nuts are a favorite treat for mice. Through a metal lid - they will not get nuts ... But a plastic lid - mice gnaw through easily. These lids are definitely not suitable for us.

After 2-3 months of such stratification, pine nuts can already be germinated. And you can - and leave them until spring, for sowing in the garden.

Even correctly stratified cedar seeds do not germinate at the same time. And all the seeds - just do not germinate. For example, out of 100 cedar nuts, it is guaranteed that we will get 20-30 cedars. In principle - not so little.

When transplanting, you need to take care of the root system, make sure that all the roots go underground, do not bend or break anywhere. It is necessary to transplant with a clod of earth in which the cedrick was sitting, because it contains friendly microorganisms for the tree and they will increase the chances of survival (the exception is the method with sawdust and needles - in this case, the roots remain bare, but you can still grab a little sawdust and needles in the planting hole).

For drainage and improving soil aeration, it is very good to add a little sand, sawdust, coniferous litter or pine nut shells to the hole where the seedling will be transplanted. This is especially recommended for clay soil.

To improve the survival rate of cedar seedlings, it is good to use mulching: cut grass, deciduous or coniferous litter, the same pine nut shells, tree bark or moss brought from the forest are laid out on the ground around the trunk. Mulch prevents the soil from drying out, abundant grass growth, creates a local microclimate, creates conditions for the development of worm bugs under it, and gradually forms fertilizer material by winter.

You can also feed the seedling with natural immunostimulants: infusion of nettle and horsetail, leave for a week in a barrel, 1: 1 of water and plants, dilute with water when feeding 1:20. Both nutrients and simply information from herbs play a role here.

And further. Very important. Cedar trees need mycorrhiza for survival and growth; mycelium. A mushroom picker that maintains symbiosis with a tree and increases the area of collecting water and nutrients by 10 times. What can be done:

- you can bring a forest floor with ready-made mycorrhiza.

- but it’s better to grow your mycorrhiza already in place: propagate fungal spores and “sow”, more precisely, spill the soil with them.

To do this, old mushrooms are soaked for a day in warm water, and then this infusion is poured over the place where the cedars will grow, after that this place must be kept constantly moist (but not flooded with water). Mycorrhiza grows from fungal spores.

Under coniferous trees butterflies, porcini mushrooms, green rows, milk mushrooms grow. Under the birch trees, boletus, porcini mushrooms, russula, milk mushrooms.

Once porcini, milk mushrooms form mycorrhiza with both coniferous and deciduous trees, which means that old mushrooms, porcini mushrooms collected in birch groves should also be used to form mycorrhiza in places where cedars and other coniferous trees are planted.

Spilling the soil with an infusion of mushrooms is not only a help to the trees, but also a mushroom harvest in 2 years. And after 3 years already good harvest. This is how mushrooms are grown

Cedars love partial shade, so it would be nice to plant them near the "nanny" - it can be any bush or tree (any tree except oak and some exotic ones - the cedar will outgrow, so don't worry about it). They are needed to protect from the sun, as well as wind, and to retain moisture.

But the most important thing when planting cedars and other trees is your thought! If your thought is harmonious, if you plant a tree with pure thoughts: selflessly, for the happiness of the tree itself, the happiness of Mother Earth and future descendants, then, firstly, the survival rate of such a tree will increase many times, and secondly, it will strengthen that thought and the energy with which you planted it. Therefore, try to plant trees, and especially cedars, with good mood, smile and joy, and then there will be more of this on earth.

The most mysterious and important tree on Earth

Cedar forests are the beauty and pride of Siberia.

Cedar is a majestic and very decorative tree, a long-liver among local tree species. It is believed that the cedar begins to bear fruit very late, after 50 years of life, but in cultivated plantations, cultivated by man, this period is often reduced by several times.

How to grow a cedar from a nut. Pollination occurs with the help of the wind, so cedars are planted in groups on the site. In order for cedars grown from seeds to be well pollinated in the future and give full-fledged seeds, it is recommended to take cones for sowing from different trees, and even better - from different places.

Cones ripen for a year and a half, ripen in September, after which they are easily knocked off by the wind. In order for cedar seeds to sprout well, you need to collect only mature cones, not earlier than September. Industrial blanks with the help of “beater” logs often begin long before the final ripeness of the nut, and they are often peeled after “bathing” in boilers with hot water so that the resin does not interfere. What kind of resemblance is there...

Freshly harvested seeds can be immediately sown in the garden, where in the spring they will sprout together, and then they will grow for 2-3 years. The embedment depth is about 2 cm, the distance between the grooves is about 20 cm, between the seeds is 2-3 cm. The bed must be mulched with coniferous litter or pine nut shell, as in my version in the photo. It is this sowing that gives the best result and excellent germination, the adaptation of cedars to the soil, climate and local conditions.

There are two important conditions for the successful growth and development of seedlings, especially relevant in regions with a hot and active sun and dry winds. First, crops in an open area need to be slightly shaded. Usually it is enough not to weed out all the grass, leaving "backstage" in the inter-ridges and part of the herbaceous plants on the ridge (but do not overdo it - it's bad if you don't see the cedars themselves in your "shading"). Secondly, cedar is a rather moisture-loving tree, sensitive to the lack of both soil and air moisture. Therefore, think about how to provide seedlings with sufficient moisture - you can sow other plantings or buildings in the penumbra, turn on a sprinkler for them in a drought. Landings should winter under snow. In places where snow blows, provide snow retention.

How to grow a cedar from a nut In the first years, the cedar grows very slowly - the growth is only a few centimeters. In the third year of life in the spring, you need to plant your pets in pots with a volume of at least 0.5 liters with a clod of earth, put or dig in the shade and make sure that the earth in the pots does not dry out.

Plant the cedars in their permanent location next spring. If the soil is poor and dry, you need to add leaf humus, sawdust, forest floor, peat. Pour the planted cedar with infusions of mature mushrooms and forest litter. As you know, most trees grow much better in symbiosis with mycelium, and cedar is no exception. A four-year-old seedling reaches a height of 15 cm.

Until about 10 years old, cedars need attention, communication and supervision, then their growth accelerates sharply, and they begin to give, “thank” the person who raised them.

Let's all give our descendants beautiful cedar gardens together!

How to grow a cedar - "Homestead" N6, 1988.

"Cedar is a tree for children and grandchildren"
M. Ignatenko, Candidate of Biological Sciences, Honored Arborist of the RSFSR, Leningrad

Siberian cedar (the correct botanical name is Siberian cedar pine)- evergreen coniferous tree. It's true amazing plant has absorbed, it seems, all conceivable useful qualities: decorative and healing, winter hardiness and durability. The main wealth of the Siberian cedar is its nuts. Collected near Leningrad, they contained 61% fat, 20% protein, 12% carbohydrates. Note that these are nuts grown in the north-west of the country, where the weather is capricious. Nuts are very tasty and nutritious. Academician P.S. Pallas wrote 200 years ago: "In Switzerland, they use pine nuts in pharmacies; they make milk, which is prescribed in chest diseases ..., they say that they were used with benefit by consumptive people."

Pine nuts contain vitamin A (vitamin for growth), vitamins of group B (anti-neurotic), which improve cardiac activity and are generally necessary for normal activity nervous system. They are especially rich in vitamin E (tocopherol, which in Greek means “I bear offspring”). It is not for nothing that during the years of good harvests of cedar, the fertility of sable and squirrel increases significantly. Doctors say that pine nuts contain substances that improve blood composition, prevent tuberculosis, anemia.

Cedar resin - resin- has embalming properties. For a long time, the inhabitants of Siberia and the Urals used it to treat purulent wounds, cuts, burns. During the Great Patriotic War cedar resin was successfully used in hospitals to treat wounded soldiers. She protected wounds from infection, stopped gangrenous processes.

The needles are rich in vitamin C, carotene. It contains a lot of calcium, potassium, phosphorus, manganese, iron, copper, cobalt.

Valuable and cedar wood. Since it has bactericidal properties, moths do not start in cabinets made of cedar wood. Wood is used for the manufacture of about 10 thousand different products (pencil sticks, battery veneer, furniture, musical instruments).

The tree is beautiful with its green attire at any time of the year. High and antimicrobial properties of stone pine forests. The air in its plantations is practically sterile.

Siberian cedar has long been bred in our country. Successfully growing cedars planted in the suburbs, near Leningrad, Yaroslavl; some of them are over 100 - 200 years old, they successfully bloom, bear fruit and give mature seeds even in the Arctic. Many cedars have been planted by amateur gardeners on household plots and in community gardens. When breeding Siberian cedar, it must be taken into account that it cannot grow in dry sandy places, but prefers sandy or loamy, moist fertile soils.

Propagated cedar vegetatively, by grafting a cutting on Scots pine, but mainly by seeds. When tender, still immature seedlings are just knocked out of the soil, they are immediately pecked by birds (mainly crows). Therefore, plants have to be grown under plastic wrap.

Good results are obtained with autumn sowing seeds. To do this, in late September - early October, that is, a month before the soil freezes, the seeds are sown in prepared ridges and covered with spruce branches to protect them from mouse-like rodents. And in the spring next year seeds give friendly shoots.

Seeds sown in spring Siberian cedar require mandatory stratification. To do this, they are soaked in warm water (25 - 300) for 4-6 days. Every 1-2 days the water is changed. Then the seeds are mixed with well-washed river sand or peat chips and kept at room temperature. The mixture is periodically stirred and moistened. With this stratification, the seeds peck in 50-60 days. The seeds that have hatched are taken out to the cold and stored until sowing at a temperature close to zero. In spring, sowing is carried out in late April - early May (depending on weather conditions). For 1 sq.m. 50 to 300 g of seeds can be sown. The depth of their embedding is 3-4 cm. The polyethylene film that protects the seeds and seedlings from birds is removed only after the shell has fallen off the emerging seedlings.

With thickened crops, seedlings dive. As soon as the sprouts appear in the form of a curved knee, they are dug up, sorted, cut the roots and planted under a peg on the ridges to the same depth at which they were. Planting pattern 20x20 cm or 20x10 cm. You can dive seedlings in the second year after germination. Subject to agricultural technology, the survival rate of cedar seedlings after picking is very high - up to 95%. 2-3 years after picking, a good planting material with a developed root system is obtained, which contributes to a better survival of seedlings after transplanting to a new place.

Plant Siberian cedar! It deserves to be bred both in the central regions of the European part of the RSFSR and in the northwest.

A. Klebanov.
Candidate of Agricultural Sciences Sciences, Ural Forest Engineering Institute, Sverdlovsk

Many rural residents of Altai, Siberia, the Urals are planting cedar in their backyards, streets and squares. Cedar is the beauty and pride of the taiga. True, trees do not always take root, but sometimes they grow up to 25 m, their trunk diameter reaches 2 m. How similar is the cedar to Scotch pine. At first glance, you can't tell them apart. But you pay attention to the needles. In cedars, it is surprisingly soft, long, trihedral, collected in whorls of 5-6 pieces, and in Scots pine, 2 and very rarely 3 needles. Cedar is famous for its longevity - it lives even up to 800 years. It is difficult, of course, to wait for the harvest. In forest plantations, it begins to bear fruit at the age of 40-70, sometimes later, and in gardens where care and fertilizing are carried out in a timely manner, at 15-20 years. But it continues to give a harvest of seeds for 250 years. Residents of the taiga regions call the cedar "breadfruit".

Of course, the question comes up again and again: where to buy planting material?

In areas where cedar grows in the forest, in spring or autumn you can contact the nearest forestry or forestry and buy seedlings 2-5 years old. Sometimes, only with the permission of forestry workers, it is possible to dig up cedar seedlings on skid trails, loading areas, cutting areas, oil pipeline routes, etc. In no case should you dig out a cedar from under the canopy of the forest, in forest plantations, in burnt areas. This is regarded as poaching and is punishable by a fine. But if you are allowed to prepare cedar planting material, dig it out carefully, preserving the roots as much as possible. Moisten the earth, as it should, and plant it on the same day. If this is not possible, then the seedling must be dug in immediately. Significant damage, fragments of tap roots or their "drying" in the air are the most common mistakes when planting a cedar.

Another common mistake is planting single trees. It is known that all coniferous trees are wind-pollinated, pollen from one tree is carried by the wind to another, contributing to cross-pollination. If it occurs inside the crown of a tree, and there is no other plant of the same breed in the neighborhood, then its seeds either do not set at all, or in the fall of the next year (the seed development cycle of the cedar lasts up to 18 months!) Ripe small and dissimilar. Therefore, cedar planting material must be obtained from different places in order to prevent inbreeding. It is desirable to plant seedlings on the site immediately to a permanent place, sufficiently lit, better in groups in 3-4 trees, at a distance of 5-8 meters from each other. Between cedar seedlings, you can plant low-growing fruit trees and berry bushes. It is very good to sow lupine - this "biological fertilizer" for several years will contribute to better growth and development of cedar seedlings, will bring the beginning of its fruiting closer. It is advisable to systematically water the soil along the perimeter of the tree crown, simultaneously applying mineral and organic fertilizers in the spring.

From the very first days after planting, care for the shape of the crown is obligatory. The formation of the so-called "garden forms" is most effective - low-pubescent, sprawling, it is good if it has a multi-topped crown, since female flower buds are laid along its periphery, mainly in the upper part. You can remove the lower branches to a height of 2-2.5 meters in the first 10-15 years of the tree's life, stretching the pruning time over the years. Use secateurs to remove branches "flush" with the trunk of the tree. In this case, the wounds heal faster. To prevent infection with spores of wood-destroying fungi, cover the cuts with garden pitch.

Pruning can be abandoned if, in the first 3-5 years after planting a 2-3-year-old seedling, break off the lateral buds on the axial shoot. In this case, all nutrients and growth substances enter one central bud of the axial shoot. The growth of this shoot per season increases by 2-2.5 times, and the need for pruning lateral shoots subsequently disappears. It is desirable to break out lateral buds or cut off lateral shoots in the autumn-winter period, before the start of the growing season.

An indicator of good survival and growth of cedar seedlings is dark green needles, a spreading crown with needles of 4-5 years of age, the growth of axial shoot in the first years is at least 5-10 cm per year.

And take into account one feature of the Siberian cedar. This tree species is very sensitive to air pollution. That's why undesirable planting of cedar near large industrial enterprises with increased gas or dust content in the air. In addition, large-sized seedlings require careful care, fertilizing with mineral and organic fertilizers. But in gratitude, you will receive delicious, high-calorie pine nuts. And your grandchildren, great-grandchildren for more than 200 years will remember the Man who planted and grew this majestic tree.

Professor MGUL, doctor of agricultural sciences Sciences I.I. Drozdov

Any natural talent is fully revealed only in certain favorable conditions, with appropriate education. So and Siberian cedar- only with appropriate attention and targeted care fully realizes its rich natural potential.

In wild cedar forests, trees are not productive enough. Here they are formed under the conditions of biogenosis - a kind of plant complex with high environmental properties, the possibility of side use of the forest and the production of valuable wood in mature forest stands. In the settlement cedar forests, original cedar orchards, formed and groomed by man, the trees are presented in all their splendor. Trees with lush, evergreen crowns adorn the village landscapes in the best possible way, ennobling them with their colorful appearance. Phytoncides revitalize the atmosphere, walnut yields in the cedar forests near the village are almost 5-6 times higher than the yield of forest plantations every year.

However, with all the attractiveness of the cedar, growing it is more difficult than other conifers (Scotch pine, larch, spruce). Foresters call the culture of Siberian cedar a school of patience. Its seeds are distinguished by deep dormancy and they germinate only after a winter stay in the cold for at least 3-4 months. Cedar crops require protection from rodents and birds. The first ten years the cedar grows slowly, reaching a height of 1.5 m. However, in the future, this breed is able to thank for the attention to it. Cedar gets along well in individual plots, near buildings. At 30 years old, it reaches a height of 9 meters, forms a lush crown, reaching 3 meters in diameter. By this time, there is little space for spruce, Scotch pine and larch, they are cramped on the site, and there is a problem with their felling.

Siberian cedar propagated mainly by seed, less often - vegetatively (grafting, rooting cuttings).

It is preferable to import cedar seeds from the plains and low-mountain regions of Western Siberia. When breeding this breed in the European part of Russia, it is better to focus on the spring sowing period (end of April, first half of May). To do this, the seeds are pre-prepared, stratified for at least 3 months in the cold, following the following procedure.

Seeds are soaked for 3 days, changing the water daily. Benign seeds during this period swell and sink to the bottom of the vessel. Empty and poor-quality seeds remain on the surface, they are removed. Benign seeds are etched in an aqueous solution of potassium permanganate. Then their seeds are mixed with a moist (50%) substrate (sand, peat, sawdust, conifers, etc.) in a ratio of 1:2 and placed in the cold (under snow, in a refrigerator, etc.). With a small amount of seeds, they can be placed in bags of several layers of loose fabric. It is important that the seeds are kept moist during the entire period of stay in the cold. Under the snow, they retain moisture well, in the refrigerator they must be periodically moistened. Seeds in bags can be placed in plastic bags without closing tightly.

Before sowing, the seeds are separated from the substrate, again pickled in a strong solution of potassium permanganate (up to a day) and dried for sowing.

It is better to plant them in a greenhouse, greenhouse, etc. on a loose peat-soil substrate. Here crops are reliably protected from damage by birds. AT comfortable conditions seed germination increases, seedlings grow 1.5-2 times faster than in open ground. Before sowing, it is advisable to add to the bottom of the sowing furrows at the rate of 1 meter: superphosphate 1 g, potash fertilizers - 0.5 g or wood ash - 2 g, mixed with 20 g of peat. Distance between sowing lines - 15-20 cm. Seeding rate - 30 g (125-150 seeds) per 1 meter. The depth of planting seeds in the soil is 3 cm. The surface of the crops is covered with a layer of loose mulch (peat, sawdust or other covering material) with a layer of loose mulch (peat, sawdust or other covering material) with a layer of 0.5-1 cm. During the season, it is necessary to weed and loosen the soil 3-4 times. Before emergence of mass shoots (10 - 12 days) watering is required. In the future, the seedlings develop a fairly deep root system.

To protect crops from infectious damage to seedlings caused by the Fusarium fungus, in addition to preventive dressing of seeds, it will be necessary to water the sowing furrows with seeds sown in them with a 0.4% solution of potassium permanganate. When lesions appear, the stems of seedlings turn red, a constriction forms, they fall and dry out. Control measures: the first 2 weeks, seedlings are treated with a 0.4% solution of potassium permanganate 1-3 times with a solution flow rate of up to 10 liters per 1 m.

After 3 years, before the start of their growth, the seedlings are dug up and transplanted into a tree school with a placement of 0.4 x 0.4 m, where they are grown for 3-5 years to obtain larger seedlings. It is allowed to store seedlings dug out before the start of the growing season for 2 weeks in the cold. Bundles of seedlings (50 - 100 pieces) are packed in wet burlap, then in polyethylene film and placed in the basement or in a snow pile prepared in advance under a layer of sawdust.

You can grow seedlings with closed roots, i.e. in peat, plastic or other containers prepared for seedlings with a height of at least 8 cm and a volume of 200 - 300 cm. The containers are filled with a substrate from a mixture of peat and loam (1: 1) with the addition of a mixture (10 l) of granulated superphosphate - 50 g to a bucket, potassium salt - 25 g, dolomite lime 250 g.

The containers are filled with the substrate in mid-April and placed on the ground in the greenhouse. Cedar seeds after stratification are washed, pickled for a day in a 0.4% solution of potassium permanganate and germinated 7-10 days before sowing on wet sand or wet burlap.

Sprouted seeds are sown 1 piece in each container, covered with peat, sand or sawdust with a layer of 1 cm and watered with a 0.5% solution of potassium permanganate (5 l per 1 m of container surface). Care consists in timely watering, two or three times loosening of the surface of the substrate, and removal of weeds. If lesions of seedlings (fusarium) are found, they are watered with a 0.5% solution of potassium permanganate. If several seedlings have died, empty spaces are supplemented with germinated seeds or seedlings from additional crops.

The growing period is 2-3 years. In the first case, seedlings are grown for 2 years under a film cover, in the second - the first year in closed ground, the next 2 years in open ground with mandatory regular watering. The slightest overdrying of a small amount of substrate has a detrimental effect on plant growth. Grown seedlings are taken out of containers or directly into peat pots transplanted into large containers (paper-plastic milk bags, ceramic flower pots, plastic bags, etc.) or planted in the soil of a tree school (0.4x0.4 m) to germinate them and obtain 6-8-year-old seedlings .

Saplings of 6-8 years of age are more reliable than seedlings when transplanting cedar to a permanent place. In the tree school, they are dug up with a clod of soil (0.2x0.2x0.2 m) and transferred to the landing site, after wrapping the clod with a film or a damp cloth. Seedlings with a closed root system are freed from containers before planting.

Planting of seedlings is carried out in areas with previously loosened (dug up) not soddy loamy or sandy loamy soil. The planting hole is dug 30% more than the volume of the root systems of the seedlings. The excavated soil is mixed with fertilizers (peat, humus, rotted manure, wood ash), it is advisable to add 3-4 handfuls of forest litter from under the coniferous forest. The latter contributes better development on the root systems of mycorrhiza (symbiosis of root endings and hyphae of forest fungi), which provides good mineral nutrition of forest woody plants. The prepared substrate is poured to the bottom of the hole and the root system of the seedling is placed in the center of it so that its root neck (the border between the stem and the root system) is at the ground level of the plot. Next, the hole is filled with prepared loose soil, compacted by trampling and watered (0.5 buckets).

Place seats under seedlings linearly or in groups with a distance between them of at least 3 m. When laying garden-type plantings, placing seedlings 4x5 m or 5x5 m. This provides a fairly complete light content for the trees, contributes to the development of the crown and the formation of a good crop of cones in the future. With a rare standing of trees, cedar begins to yield crops from the age of 18.

Caring for cedar seedlings

When a white coating appears on young shoots (more often manifested in wet weather), it is necessary to treat them with a solution of laundry soap. It is diluted in warm water, the foam is whipped and then the affected shoots are thoroughly washed 2-3 times with a sponge or soft cloth swab. Otherwise, with the active development of whiteness, the shoots may die off. In this case, the tree, however, does not die, but the annual growth is lost.

Vegetative propagation of cedar, most often by grafting cuttings of cedar on cedar or cedar on Scots pine, is carried out to clone valuable selected forms (in terms of growth intensity, decorativeness, yield), to speed up the time for the appearance of the first cones. A sexually mature plant develops from a cutting - a scion taken from an adult tree from the upper female tier of the cedar crown. After 4-5 years, cones may appear on such a grafted tree.

Cedar cuttings can be rooted in special greenhouses, like blue spruce cuttings. But the technology of this process is quite laborious. In general, vegetative propagation of cedar is a rather complicated matter, and it is better to leave it to specialists.

Seed production of cedar is one of the main attractive qualities of this tree. In the free state, cedar grown from seed begins to form cones at the age of 18-20.

Siberian cedar is a monoecious tree, in the upper, most illuminated part of the crown, female ovules are located, below are male strobili. "Blossoms" cedar in June. Female "bumps" of crimson-violet color are hidden in the needles near the apical bud of the shoot. Male "flowers", orange-crimson, collected in large "inflorescences" at the base of the shoots. After 3-5 days they turn brown and fall off. Pollen is carried by the wind. After pollination, the female cones close, become green-brown, grow up to 2-3 cm, and until the next spring they are called "winter". Fertilization and seed formation occurs from the end of August and throughout September. To ensure cross-pollination, it is desirable to have a group of cedars (from 3 or more). To increase the reliability of pollination of female "flowers" in young cedars, artificial additional pollination can be carried out: shake off the pollen of male "flowers" on paper, place it in a jar and store it in the refrigerator for several days. As the female "flowers" open, apply pollen to them with a soft brush or gently blow off a piece of paper.

Cedar grows and bears fruit for several centuries. Near Yaroslavl, in the Tolgsky Monastery, about 50 cedars from the monastery garden, founded four centuries ago, have been preserved. Separate age-old fruit-bearing cedars are often found in the Yaroslavl region. Near Suzdal, an alley of 150-year-old cedars is successfully bearing fruit. In the Ivanovo region, in the Ples tract near the town of Furmanov, a 120-year-old cedar grove (about 1 ha) bears fruit and gives natural renewal of cedar. In the Moscow region, near the town of Dolgoprudny, in the Klyazma parkleskhoz, there is a century-old grove of two hundred cedars. Near the city of Zaraisky in the Novinkovsky forestry of the Lukhovitsky forestry enterprise, a 25-year-old cedar plantation on an area of 3.2 hectares (about a thousand cedars) bears abundant fruit. In the Dmitrovsky district near Yakhroma M.V. Tvelenev conducts observations in a half-century grove with an area of more than 3 hectares. It is possible to plant new cedar groves not only in Siberia, but also in the European region of Russia. This is not only possible, but must be done.

More detailed information about the biology of the Siberian cedar, methods of its reproduction and cultivation can be found in the books:

Bekh L.I., Taran I.V. Siberian miracle tree. Novosibirsk: "Nauka", 1979. - 126 p.
Drozdov I.I. Coniferous introducents in forest cultures. M.: MGUL. 1998. - 135 p.
Ignatenko M.M. Siberian cedar. M.: "Nauka", 1988. - 160 p.
Krylov G.V., Talantsev N.K.; Kozakova A.F. Cedar. Moscow: Forest industry. 1983. - 216 p.
Parfenov V.F. Complex in the cedar forest. M.: Timber industry, 1979. - 240 p.
Rodin A.R. Drozdov I.I. Guidelines for growing seedlings of Siberian cedar. M.: VASKHNIL, 1978. - 30 p.
Tvelenev M.V. Growing Siberian cedar outside the natural range. M.: TsBNTUleskhoz 1974. - 16 p.

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Ecology of knowledge: Today we will tell you exactly how to grow cedars from pine nuts, because. already very many people know what a KEDR tree is for our Earth, for a person, and in general for the whole Universe.

Today we will talk about exactly how to grow cedars from pine nuts, because. already very many people know what a KEDR tree is for our Earth, for a person, and in general for the whole Universe.

If the situation does not allow planting cedars in the fall, then you can plant them in the spring, but for this, the nuts must lie in the refrigerator or in the cellar all winter in order to undergo artificial stratification. How we did it: at the beginning of winter, we ordered a lot of pine nuts from Siberia, mixed them with wet sand, put it all in boxes and put it in the refrigerator (we found an empty one :)) There they lay with us until spring, in spring we landed them in earth.

It is necessary to find or make yourself a wooden box with a side height of about 25 cm, there must be holes at the bottom for the free passage of water. Sawdust is placed in the box (any, but ideally, of course, coniferous), mixed with coniferous needles.

In the spring of planting, it is necessary to shelter something from birds (branches, a rigid mosquito net, etc.).

Here is what experienced people advise:

To begin with, cedar seeds - you need to saturate with moisture. At the same time, wash the substances from the nuts that prevent their germination. Pour pine nuts into a bucket or bowl, and pour hot water. Not boiling water, of course. Such that the hand does not burn.
After an hour, when the nuts are slightly soaked, we will wash them a little. Just three of them in the water, among themselves.
A certain amount of resin and substances that interfere with germination will pass into the water. What it will become black - it must be seen!
We wash the pine nuts, pour warm water again - and leave for a couple of hours. Then - wash the nuts and again - change the water. Thus, we soak cedar seeds - about a day. By this time, most of the mature nuts will have sunk to the bottom of the bucket.
Well, we have done the preliminary preparation of cedar seeds.

Wet, moisture-saturated cedar seeds - lay out in glass jars. The size of the jar depends on the number of cedar seeds. The jar can be filled with seeds - half. Maximum - 2/3. It is best to take a twisting jar. Having wrapped the lid, we make holes in it, with a knife or a carnation, for air access.
Packed in this way, cedar seeds are ready for stratification. Now it remains for us to find a place for their stratification, with a suitable temperature. I usually stratify nuts in the cellar. The temperature there is about 0°C. You can - and stratify pine nuts in the refrigerator. But the effect will be worse.

With early stratification of pine nuts, you can hide a jar in the garden. The main thing is to cover with some foliage. Direct sunlight can ruin everything.
In general, stratification occurs - at a temperature of +3 to -1. Freezing, even strong, cedar seeds tolerate well - with gradual thawing.
Do not forget that pine nuts are a favorite treat for mice. Through a metal lid - they won’t get nuts ... But a plastic lid - mice gnaw through easily. These lids are definitely not suitable for us.

After 2-3 months of such stratification, pine nuts can already be germinated. And you can - and leave them until spring, for sowing in the garden.
Even properly stratified cedar seeds do not germinate at the same time. And all the seeds - just do not germinate. For example, out of 100 cedar nuts, it is guaranteed that we will get 20-30 cedars. In principle - not so little.

You can bring a forest floor with ready-made mycorrhiza.

But it is better to grow your mycorrhiza already in place: multiply the spores of mushrooms and “sow”, more precisely, shed the soil with them. To do this, old mushrooms are soaked for a day in warm water, and then the place where the cedars will grow is poured with this infusion, after which this place must be kept constantly moist (but not flooded with water). Mycorrhiza grows from fungal spores.
Under the coniferous trees grow butterflies, porcini mushrooms, green rows, milk mushrooms. Under the birch trees, boletus, porcini mushrooms, russula, milk mushrooms.
Since white mushrooms, milk mushrooms form mycorrhiza with both coniferous and deciduous trees, it means that old mushrooms, porcini mushrooms collected in birch groves should also be used to form mycorrhiza in places where cedars and other coniferous trees are planted.
Spilling the soil with an infusion of mushrooms is not only a help to the trees, but also a mushroom harvest in 2 years. And after 3 years already a good harvest. This is how mushrooms are grown

Cedars love partial shade, so it would be nice to plant them near the “nanny” - it can be any bush or tree (any tree except oak and some exotic ones - the cedar will outgrow, so don’t worry about it). They are needed to protect from the sun, as well as wind, and to retain moisture.

But the most important thing when planting cedars and other trees is your thought! If your thought is harmonious, if you plant a tree with pure thoughts: selflessly, for the happiness of the tree itself, the happiness of Mother Earth and future descendants, then, firstly, the survival rate of such a tree will increase many times, and secondly, it will strengthen that thought and the energy with which you planted it. Therefore, try to plant trees, and especially cedars, with a good mood, smile and joy, and then there will be more of this on earth.

P.S. And if the children will plant cedars, then this ... perhaps, is simply the best thing that can happen today! published