We add warmth and comfort to the house by making a simple table made of solid wood with our own hands according to understandable drawings. Do-it-yourself oak table Making an oak table with your own hands

This instruction is for you if you want to make interesting dinner table ik. Such a table will easily fit into any interior. His hallmark are voluminous legs, and it is made of oak. The choice fell on oak because this material was easily accessible to the author, and also looked interesting. Over time, a fungus attacked the oak, due to which the wood acquired a dark brown hue.
Each board has its own unique pattern, which makes this material great for making a side table.

Everything is assembled mainly on glue, it would be nice to have.

List of materials and tools used

List of materials:
- brown oak boards with a total length of 20 meters (200 mm * 25 mm);
- glue for wood;
- wood screws;
- mounting brackets and other small things.

List of tools:
- pencil and drawing accessories;
- drill with drills;
- manual frezer;
- a tool for cutting wood ();
- oil for impregnation;
- sandpaper (preferably a grinder);
- screwdrivers, clamps, etc.

Table making process:

Step one. We determine the volume of materials and dimensions
The first step is to figure out what size your countertop will be, also consider the amount of material you have. In total, the author had 9 boards to make the table, while he used 7 pieces to make the table top. They were chosen depending on the pattern, so that everything looked beautiful and harmonious.

Step two. We assemble the countertop
Measure the desired length of the boards and cut them exactly to the same length. To assemble the table, the author actively uses glue for wood, the tabletop is also assembled on glue. To solve this problem, you have to make the joined parts of the boards perfectly even, they must fit without gaps. You will also need long clamps so that the whole thing can be pulled off later.

The author first glues the tabletop in groups, since the entire shield of seven boards is quite wide. First, you can glue a group of three boards and another one of four. In the end, the whole thing is glued together. Apply glue, tighten with clamps and let dry. We remove the protruding parts of the glue immediately so that they do not dry out. After assembly, make sure that the plane is perfectly flat. Dowels can be used to strengthen the structure at the joints.

Step three. Making legs
The author paid special attention to the legs of the table. They are type-setting, from different wood, as planned, they were made voluminous. In addition, the legs have a bend that can be cut with a band saw.

Each leg consists of three boards, cut them to the same length. There is a gap between the boards, it is formed due to the fact that there are spacers from the boards in the upper and lower parts of the legs between the boards. As a result, you will need 12 boards and 16 spacers. As soon as there are finished blanks, the legs can be glued together. We apply glue to the blanks and tighten the legs with clamps. We let this whole thing dry.

When the glue dries, we turn to the help of a jigsaw or other band saw. We need to cut out the bends on the legs, there should not be any special problems.

When the legs were ready, the author sanded them with 240 grit sandpaper. Finally, they can be soaked in oil, since after assembling the table it will be harder to do. Oils are different in color, price and quality, choose to your taste.

Step four. Frame assembly
The frame of the table consists of four boards, which are attached to the legs. On each leg, a special mounting place in the form of triangles is cut out at the top. We drill holes for the screws in the boards and fasten them to the legs. If desired, you can additionally use glue.
That's all, now we have created something that already stands on legs!

Step five. We finalize the countertop
The table top must be perfectly level rectangular shape. If this is not the case, take circular saw and cut off the excess. At the end, the author processed the edges with a router. You can make them perfectly smooth with sandpaper. It is also highly recommended to smooth the corners of the countertop so that they do not cut your hands while sitting at the table.

Surely, the outer part of the boards will not be perfect, it will have defects. It could be knots, insect activity, or even the wood might be rotten in places. But this is all fixable, we clean the problem areas with sandpaper and prepare the epoxy. Apply epoxy resin for defects and let dry. In the end, the whole thing is polished flush, and the material is perfectly even and smooth.

Step six. We fix the countertop, grind, apply oil
The first step is to screw the tabletop to the frame with legs. To do this, put the countertop on the table, and set the frame upside down. For fastening, the author uses mounting angles and screws for wood. We drill holes in the right places and screw in the screws. Corners should be at least three pieces on each side.

Turn the table over and start grinding. To grind such a plane and grind it evenly, it is advisable to use a power tool. A manual belt sander or orbital sander would work well here.

First, take a large sandpaper grit 80 and level the entire plane. Then we reduce the grit to 120, to 180, 240, 320, 400 ... and make the surface perfectly smooth.

You can also do it manually, but it will be much more difficult. For convenience, we attach sandpaper to the bar and into battle!

As soon as the entire table is sanded, including the legs, we impregnate it with oil. Oil well protects the tree from moisture, which is very useful, since the table is used for eating. Also, the oil looks great, the wood looks natural when using it. We apply the oil until the wood absorbs it. After that, if desired, you can polish the countertop.
Instead of oil, the table can also be varnished, although it will be slippery, which is not very pleasant.

Step seven. All is ready!
That's all,

In today's material, I would like to introduce you to the process of creating a dining table from oak planks. These ideas do not claim to be a full-fledged master class, but rather information for inspiration for wood craftsmen. I know that for many men it is enough to look at the product in order to outline a plan of action in their head. Therefore, the current oak table is just for such craftsmen.

The material from which this table was made lay idle for a long time in the backyard of an American man. It lay there for so long that no one even remembered when exactly this oak beam appeared there.

However, one fine morning, the hands of the master finally reached these oak beams. One of them was sawn at a local sawmill into boards for countertops. I won’t tell you the exact dimensions, but I suspect that it is about 50x200 cm, the length of the board is about 2 meters.

The boards were sawn and then glued with tenons back to back to create a table top. There is not much to say about technology. Drill holes in the sides of the boards, drive the dowels into the glue, then glue the sides and press the boards together.

When the boards were glued together, forming a single tabletop shield, the man sanded the top of the tabletop.

And then cut exactly its ends. I did not cut the sides to leave the textured elements of the tree.

All the irregularities on the countertop were covered with epoxy, and then sanded, after which the wood was varnished.

This is how the countertop made of oak boards turned out in the end.

Then a table frame was made with a transverse horizontal strut, also from an oak board.

In the final, a tabletop was installed on the frame.

The result was a massive do-it-yourself oak dining table. By analogy, you can make a table from any other board that you have available. however, I still recommend giving preference to wood with texture.

Videos idea

I also suggest watching a similar video, which shows how a similar cherry countertop is made.

How to make a wooden table and benches for a summer residence. I wrote about this at.

The table is the second object after the stool, which a novice furniture maker should take up. Design simple table no more difficult than a stool; an unpretentious comfortable table for a summer cottage or for a picnic can be built in half a day using a hacksaw, a hammer and a drill. But a table made using the same technology and slightly ennobled can look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensively purchased one. However, the table also gives greater freedom of creative self-expression, it can be meaningful and even key element interior design, it is not for nothing that handicraft furniture makers are called joiners, and not sofa makers, cabinetrs or bedside tables. Having mastered the carpentry craft, it will be possible to take up exclusive tables over time, the rest of the poses. there.

This article discusses how to make tables out of wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic qualities. In utilitarian products, she forgives rather gross mistakes for beginners, but fine woodwork requires high skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, then mastering glass, metal and plastic will be much easier.

Tool and workshop

To make a table with your own hands, you need a separate from the living rooms production room: Woodwork is notoriously dusty. In addition, such good means of toning and protecting wood as wood stains emit harmful fumes during staining; nitro-varnishes, too, although to a lesser extent. Therefore, home carpentry should be well ventilated, and better - with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and they will not benefit the car. Better to work in the barn; if it doesn’t exist yet, then you can build it, but on the farm it will come in handy for a lot of things.

The usual carpentry tool, on the left in the figure, is enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better if modern achievements are brought to the rescue, right there:

• Swivel miter box, pos. 1, allows you to make saw cuts exactly in size and in angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with a complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper, and the work will be more accurate. The miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
• Also universal is a manual electric jigsaw with an inclined shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
• Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, it makes it possible for a beginner to get the surface of a wooden plate in 5-15 minutes, on which an experienced carpenter with a skin in his hand will take at least an hour, and tape, pos. 5, also quickly and efficiently process the ends; is there some more belt sanders for grooves and recesses with a protruding working body. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other work, and quite expensive, so it’s better to rent them first. True, craftsmen still successfully brush with grinders; artificially aging, a tree, but this is a delicate work.
• It is also preferable at first to rent a manual wood router, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. They process shaped edges, choose holes and grooves.

A universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) of various modifications is very useful on the farm. It is compact, fits on a table, powered by 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines a circular saw, planer, wood lathe and a set of cutters. True, you can’t just grind the table legs on it, the tailstock caliper overhang is too small. But the caliper itself is just steel round pipe, it is easy to lengthen it. The stop of the cutter remains regular, it is mobile, the leg and with a long caliper are sharpened in one setting.

How to choose a tree?

A wooden table can be made from any wood of medium resistance to decay, except for the softest species: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailanthus. Of the domestic ones, these include:

The rocks are listed in order of availability. For example, horse chestnut, sycamore and juniper are not harvested at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in the southern regions, while juniper is endangered and protected. Industrial blanks of elm are almost completely used for shoe lasts, weaving shuttles, etc., and mountain ash - for weapons stocks; complete plastic replacement they don't have yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, does not renew well, so its harvesting is strictly regulated, and the wood is expensive.

Note: walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent viscosity, the most openwork carving does not prick on the nut. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.

At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. Pine or oak will go to the countertop; birch - on the legs of a pine table; in the countertop, it is strongly warped from the spilled. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.

On a pine countertop made of boards, you can and even need to take low-grade cheap boards - knotty, serpentine. But, of course, without falling knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, rot marks on black (ebony) wood may be whitish or yellowish.

Why is the countertop substandard? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished on a circular and jointer? And after skillful processing of them, plates of remarkable beauty are obtained, on the left in fig. Producers do not like such a tree: it drags on the production cycle, waste increases. But for yourself with your own hands, this is not so scary compared to the result.

wooden humpback

Commercial pine has a clearly defined zoning of wood in the form of annual growth rings; other conifers and many hardwoods also have it. On the saw cut of the board, the rings form the so-called. humpback in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in fig. in the center, then when rallying the shield for the tabletop (see below), the boards are oriented with humps alternately up and down, from below in fig. If the ridges are directed towards the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with ridges in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the countertop does not split or warp.

Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue

A free means of protecting wood from decay is used motor oil, but for what they eat from, this is not the best option. Optimal will be 2-fold, with a break of 3-5 days, impregnation with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE), it will give protection to the table for the entire time of its life. Even birch plywood impregnated with WPE is suitable for furniture front panels: it is also varnished on top and does not delaminate.

Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually falling into disuse: they are superior to water-based acrylic varnishes in all respects; in addition, they are safe to use. Also, glues, bone carpentry and BF-2 on alcohol are inferior to PVA; however, to obtain a high-quality seam, the latter requires applying glue to both surfaces, keeping them tack-free before joining, and holding them under pressure for 1-3 days, but this is acceptable for home production.

Wood for furniture can be pre-tinted and protected with a stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. To tint the assembled units, you can use paints based on the same lacquer and artistic (not paint!) dyes: oil in tubes for NC lacquers and acrylic water-based for the same lacquer.

First, they prepare a “painting”: they take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it with continuous thorough stirring with a paintbrush. The coloring is stored in a tightly closed vial and added to the varnish to the desired tone; a test for it is done on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by the complete drying of the varnish. Colored varnishes on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the mixing rules oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.

First steps

The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If 1-2 brick pallets remain from the construction site, then the pallet table will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.

From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, you get a garden table like a coffee table, on the left in fig. If there is a pair available, in just half an hour you can make a wall-mounted desktop-rack, in the center and on the right. Chains for it can also be woven yourself from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To fully raise the tabletop, a small tool is placed on a shelf of a wall pallet.

With a little more work, a collapsible cutting table for a summer residence is made from one pallet, which allows you to transfer the summer-autumn harvesting campaign to the street without littering with husks and without trampling on the stumps. For the winter this table is collected in a compact package. The construction is clear from Fig; a bucket is placed under the hatch in the tabletop.

The next in order of complexity is the well-known country table-goats, colloquially a goat. Its construction of 40 mm boards is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right - a country folding table on the same principle. It has swivel joints (M8-M12 bolts, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place marked in green, a stop boss is placed on the nails between the crossbars of the tabletop. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it will also go to a picnic. If this is not expected, or the trunk is larger, the countertop can be made longer.

Finally, it also does not require special tools and skills for a gazebo table, see fig. below. Material - the same magpie board and some inexpensive fasteners.

One step closer to art...

To advance in table building, now you need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. The table, in general, consists of a tabletop, its support frame, possibly with niches and / or mechanisms, or simply a plate - underframe - legs, and knots holding everything together. Let's go through them starting with the connections along with the legs, because. their fastening is the weakest point of the table.

Connections and legs

At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled on a quick-drying glue that does not require exposure: carpentry, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off hats are used to connect thin boards, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries out, but the metal does not, and over time the connection becomes loose.

For dowels, a thin-layered tree is taken stronger than both connected parts, i.e. the hardest rocks. A pine table with birch legs can be joined on oak or beech dowels. On sale there are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels; before use, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, for example. inserts in sliding tables.

Legs for tables industrial production fastened with split sides, see fig. on right. Pos., marked in yellow - the simplest, cheapest and worst. With its shortcomings in the complete absence of advantages, buyers of the Shiroptrebovskaya Soviet furniture Let her stay there. Reliable, well-kept, except for the legs, and underframe boards, drawers with mortise jibs, “green” pos. They also require the least cost, but are quite laborious, so they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. Drawer side with shaped steel jib, top right in the figure, even stronger; in this way it is possible to fasten legs with a round head and in general any, however, purchased shaped parts made of high-quality steel are required.

Note: legs are attached to the round table, as shown below in fig.

Detachable legs are needed not only for ease of storage and transportation. In a small apartment narrow corridor a table with legs is often simply impossible to push up to the living room, no matter how you turn it. Modern apartments more spacious, and in 1-storey private houses the table can be served / given out the window, therefore, in such cases, the strength and durability of the table with tightly fixed legs comes to the fore.

For tables on a rectangular base, the heads of the legs for blind fastening must also be rectangular, pos. 1 in fig. By the way, the tsargs are also one-piece: then the legs with dowels that pass through a mortise wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with dogwood or boxwood wedges inserted across the fibers of the jib wood. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that these 200-year-old tables can be fought by grabbing the leg.

Enough quality tables on turned legs they are assembled simply on dowels, pos. 2. For simpler tables, the legs are made of timber and fixed with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and lighter are the legs of a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. So that they do not cling to the floor, you need to fill them with thrust bearings below or put the table on wheels.

table top

It is easier, but not the cheapest, to order a laminated worktop. chipboard(chipboard, laminate). Chipboard for countertops is available in the form of the so-called. postforming - slabs 3.6x1.2 m 20-60 mm thick with decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the bottom face with a drip collector, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is quite environmentally friendly, no matter what gossip does not want to forget the co-furniture, which stank of phenol for months.

Postforming is well bought by small furniture enterprises. They always have his scraps; of them, they will gladly and for a very affordable price cut the tabletop to size, if the company has a jig saw. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. The finished slab will be closed, i.e. cover the PVC end with a piping (edge). If you will be edging yourself (sometimes they ask for an awkward surcharge for edging), then keep in mind:

• The upper and lower flanges of the edging have a different profile, see on the left in fig. Confuse - there will always be a piping of dirt on the table.
• Kant must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the plate. It is possible to put on a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm plate, but it will soon slide off.
• The groove for the crest of the edge must be selected with a manual disk cutter; saw, it seems that no one has yet succeeded as it should.
• Before installing the edge, a thin layer of silicone sealant is applied to the end surface and the "sausage" is squeezed into the groove; in this case, the silicone will also be a lubricant, without which the edging comb can simply crumble.
• The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows of the mallet, gradually moving along the contour. The tabletop must lie face up on the support; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately wiped off with a clean rag slightly moistened with table vinegar.

Plank tabletops are rallied in plank clips with wedges and spacers - wimahs. Wimes are quite possible to make yourself; You need 3-4 for a tabletop. Wym boards (cheeks) are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. On fig. for example - the process of manufacturing a round tabletop; rectangular rally in the same way, only cropping to size is easier. The shield is rallied onto the countertop with glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are grooved, dowels are not needed. When rallying to PVA, the next plot is kept until the applied glue is tacky before installation in the wyma.

Often, countertops are assembled without wyms on the plaza - flat surface, covered plastic wrap. It will not work to assemble a good plank shield on the plaza: either it will come out slitted, or the boards will stand on end when assembled. But inlaid countertops from fragments are simply wonderful in skillful hands. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. - a tabletop made of sawing waste, tinted with wood stain. And on pos. 4-5, the base of the tabletop was the plaz itself made of thick plywood. The tile and its break are glued with tile adhesive, then the depressions are filled with grout for drinking, the surface is lacquered and the contour is edged with a wooden lath.

Note: these examples do not illustrate all the possibilities of making do-it-yourself inlaid art tabletops.

Underframe

Table base with non-removable legs - simple wooden frame, on the left in Fig. Niches and details of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the tabletop is removable/sliding, or heavy operational loads are expected (for example, a work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffeners in the center. If the legs are fastened with drawers, then the underframe is made integral with the table top, so that a single power circuit is obtained, on the right in fig.

no frame

Tables without underframes are also known, in which the tabletop with legs work in a single carrier system. Very durable, eg. plywood table on the left in fig; its connections are shkantovye. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. In mass production, the waste is not very large, but a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm or more will go one piece for large sidewalls, and 1 more for smaller ones. The table on the right is already quite possible to make with your own hands: the supporting frame is prefabricated; connections - in a spike with a tightening bolt and half a tree. However, the countertop in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right angles.

... and get into the kitchen

Exactly. The table for the kitchen is the next in order of complexity after the simplest country ones. It must already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average completeness; the width of the seat for 1 rider is 60-80 cm, depending on its corpulence, the width of the tabletop is at least 70 cm. Aesthetic appearance highly desirable, but not decisive: suddenly he messed up with the decoration, that's what the tablecloth is for. The countertop should be easy to clean, durable, resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.

All these requirements will be satisfied by a table made of chipboard on metal legs; they are also sold separately in sets of 4 pieces, with fasteners, on the left in fig. Factory legs for tables, as a rule, are supplied with height-adjustable heels. The table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the nests of the legs with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% cheaper than the whole purchased one, but in appearance it will not yield, on the right in Fig.

If you are not too lazy to put your hands on it, steel legs can be made with your own hands. This is not only a cheaper, but also a more durable option: the sockets of branded legs are cast from a rather fragile silumin, the fasteners weaken over time, they need to be tightened. You yourself can cut out nests from good steel, and weld your own legs into them.

The kitchen is more spacious, perhaps there is room for a larger table. In such a case - on the trail. rice. blueprints kitchen table in rustic style. "Rustic" this table is not only in appearance: it does not have a single nail and metal fasteners in general. Just wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing such, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the tabletop, you will have to rally the shields on the sidewalls, but in this case, the extra work is worth it.

Kruglyashi

A table with a round top is appropriate in any room, if it fits there. But a tabletop made of boards in this case is not the best option: due to the presence of sharp corners, it is subject to splitting without a frame, which is very complex and time-consuming. Type-setting countertops from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free from this drawback; unlike laminate rounds, they are decorative, stylish, unique, and practically free.

There are even more sharp corners in a small-type table top, but here the “broom law” works. Not the American senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of complete oblivion of it at home, but the broom with which they sweep the rubbish. As you know, it is impossible to break him (a broom, not a senator) tied up, and a child will break twig after twig. So here, due to the ease of distributing loads between small fragments, the countertop made of them works like a solid plate, and you can cut it off after assembly even with the letter zyu.

Note: the idea of ​​the broom senator, sorry, Venik, was suggested by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world-famous as Mark Twain: “I affirm, and undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more fantasies than a bull. But not the bull that lows in the pasture, but the one that is the support of the bridge.

How to make a semi-folding round table is shown in fig; on the right there are the dimensions of the countertop and the assembly order. And in fig. on the right above - a small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - a business card. Its feature is the minimum number of connections; glue assembly. On the countertop anyone will go kruglyash, from sawing off a stump to a cardboard one, made according to the method of manufacturing cardboard shelves, but the underframe is necessarily durable, made of wood (dvuhsotka board) or chipboard.

Moving on to the living room

The table in the main room of the house should be in line with the whole house. At the same time, with the modern desire for laconic design (which also saves living space costs), the table should not be striking for the time being, and occupy smaller place. Therefore, one of the most sought-after pieces of furniture of our days has become a transforming table.

The simplest transformable table, which, with all its transformations, remains a table, and does not turn into a closet or bed - a bedside table; it is quite possible to make it with your own hands "from scratch". There are 2 most common options here. On the left in fig. - the table is deployable, it has a record ratio of occupied areas in expanded and collapsed form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the tabletop wings lowered, it will serve as a bar. By raising the wings one by one, you can get a kitchen or everyday dining table, and fully extended (in the center), it will provide a place for a rather crowded banquet.

A bachelor living in a small apartment is more suitable for a folding bedside table, on the right in fig. These are, in essence, 2 small round folding tables, described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can have lunch alone from it folded, because, unlike the previous version, there is where to put your legs. And unfolding, hold romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or sincere gatherings with friends.

All of the above qualities combine coffee-dining tables-transformers with a mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables that are always tables, they basically come down to 2 types: an elevator (pantograph) and a book. How one and the other work, see the video:

Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although much depends on the quality of execution. It is more popular among book lovers, because the mechanism-book can still be made independently, and the elevator outside the production environment is unlikely.

How the table-book is laid out is shown in stages in fig. on right. For its independent production, you need to know that the key unit is the damping-balancing elastic link. In fairly expensive branded designs, very soft gas dampers (gas lifts) are used, but it is better for an amateur to stop at a spring damper, and not because a gas lift is much more expensive.

The fact is that the gas lift must be coordinated within fairly narrow limits with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the table top, underframe and the own weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened / loosened; replace as a last resort. In general, an unsuccessful home-made transforming table with gas lifts rarely manages to be “brought to mind”, and spring almost always. If you still decide to suffer with a homemade acrobat table, in fig. - drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.

Without the availability of or access to drilling, turning and milling machines for metal, most parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $50-$60. A factory-made transforming coffee table rarely costs less than $200, so even in this situation, the savings are significant.

The transformer table is made under the mechanism. One of the most popular are the Mazetti transformation mechanisms, thanks to good quality for moderate this class products price. In addition, Mazetti movements are available in a supporting frame (inset in the center in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. The rest of the pos. in fig. show the device and the dimensions of the table for this mechanism.

For a strong feast

Whatever you say, but in a normal family with children, friends and relatives, crowded gatherings at the table cannot do without, and here the transforming table will not always help out. However, we will leave more or less full banquet tables for the living room, as they say, for later: these are products of a higher order of complexity; primarily because of the extension mechanism.

By the way, the good old “sliders” with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the halves of the table top (item 1 in the figure) are quite convenient and reliable if properly executed, in addition to this, they can be made by yourself, but such a process requires a special detailed description. Modern sliding mechanisms with telescopic full extension guides, pos. 2, allow you to use not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the capacity of the table by 6-10 people, respectively, but they are quite expensive, and their installation requires a description of no less voluminous.

There are banquet tables with clamshell inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when sliding / sliding the halves of the tabletop, the insert lifts, unfolds and puts in place or removes a very complex mechanism back into the underframe, but it manual options available to make at home.

As for banquet tables with retractable individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in computer desk, then they can by no means be called popular: leaning forward (and how to avoid this if the house is without servants?), We will get the board back in the underframe, and our portion of the treat - for festive clothes.

But let's not talk about sad things. Recall that the table is not always pushed apart, and you can use the side table, but the whole table is in any case more reliable. Therefore, in the series of drawings below - a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and how it looks "alive" - ​​see the left in fig. at the beginning.

In addition

A table, and indeed any furniture, often wants to be painted not just with stripes or artistically painted. To protect the drawing from external influences and to ensure the possibility of updating the varnish if necessary, the paints should not be applied, but rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by layer-by-layer rubbing of paints is called glazing. So in conclusion, we offer a master class on wood glazing.

Video: wood glazing master class

Of the abundance of furniture offered, wooden tables and chairs remain popular everywhere. Natural materials ensure environmental friendliness, safety and durability of models. Solid wood furniture can be found in any country house, apartment or office.

In addition, wooden furniture can be made independently.

Wooden kitchen tables

Before you buy a table, you should consider a few nuances. It is on them that the comfort and mood of the household in the kitchen depends.

Ergonomics

Due to the fact that in small apartments kitchens are usually small size, do not forget about ergonomics. First of all, when choosing a dining wooden table, you should take into account the comfort of staying near the kitchen furniture.

It is not comfortable when you rest your elbows or legs on a neighbor or on the legs of a table. In addition, there should be an optimal distance from the table to other pieces of furniture. The table should be approximately 80 cm away from walls and other items in the kitchen.

The height of the table also plays an important role. It should be selected depending on the height of the persons sitting behind it. Low (70-74 cm) tables are recommended for short people. Those with a height of 1.6 m to 1.7 m should buy tables with standard sizes (75-76 cm).

Appearance of the tabletop

Before choosing a countertop design, you need to calculate how many people you usually need to place behind it. Forms are found: oval, round and rectangular and square.

Tables that do not have corners should be placed in spacious kitchens. Tables with a square or rectangle shape fit perfectly into small spaces. You should see if the appearance of the table fits the overall interior.

Practicality

There are many models that carry additional functionality, namely, they replace the cabinet, can be folded and unfolded if necessary.

A wooden extendable table is a great solution for those owners who suffer from a lack of space in the dining room.

Like any furniture, these products have a number of positive and negative qualities. Wooden tables in the kitchen have the following advantages:

• the uniqueness and originality of the wood texture, which cannot be recreated;
• the ability to withstand shock and everyday use for a long time;
• environmentally friendly, thanks to a natural material that does not contain glue and does not emit harmful substances in atmosphere.

Negative characteristics include: high cost, vulnerability to moisture and dampness. At elevated temperatures, the material can dry out, thereby forming cracks and loosening of the table. Over time, the surface may darken or be attacked by pests.

Wood table in the living room

Recently, it has become fashionable to decorate a living space in white tones. A combination of white furniture and light decoration of walls and windows is actively used. dark and White color can also be combined in furniture.

For example, the table top can be white, while the legs and edging of the table are dark. Such furniture is often used when decorating a room in a minimalist style. In a spacious living room or studio, a white wooden table is a great solution.

The glass and wood table is often placed in front of the sofa, is small in size and is used as a fashionable piece of furniture in the hall. It is intended: for drinking tea in front of the TV, storing books and magazines, as well as for working in front of a laptop.

Table made of solid wood in the country

On the personal plot The most important gathering place for loved ones and guests is the gazebo or outdoor space.

In nature, one is drawn to everything natural, so a wooden table for a summer residence is a combination of beauty and practicality in one item. In addition, this piece of furniture goes well with the overall rustic style.

Wooden tables for a summer cottage should be not only durable, but also moisture resistant. If the table is often exposed to moisture, you should choose a larch product.

Country tables should have the property not to deteriorate under the scorching sun. Due to its density, best material for a country table, walnut or oak is considered. This wood is considered hard and expressive. To resist pests, the oak is seared, that is, it is kept in water for a while. Such material is more expensive than its counterparts.

You can save if you choose a table made of coniferous wood. They have lightness, pleasant color, smell and moisture resistance. The increased resin content resists water absorption.

How to make a wooden table yourself?

Some summer residents make tables themselves. Creativity and diligence will allow you to save money and create a unique thing on your suburban area. Making a wooden table with your own hands is not at all difficult. Enough to have in your arsenal necessary materials, tools and some time.

Tools and materials needed for manufacturing:

• plane;
• grinder or paper;
• screwdriver with a set of bits;
• jigsaw or saw;
• chisel;
• means for staining and varnishing;
• metal corners;
• yardstick;
• building level;
• fittings for fastening (screws, bolts, self-tapping screws);
• boards 40 or 50 mm thick;
• 4 bars for wooden table legs measuring 50x50 mm;
• auxiliary boards 40 mm thick for attaching the tabletop.

Procedure (step by step instructions)

• Decide on the dimensions of the future homemade product. For table lengths greater than standard, at least four posts must be installed.
• Boards for the countertops are pre-cut and sawn to the desired size.
• Place five boards in parallel, fasten them from below with self-tapping screws to the auxiliary transverse boards. Leave room for table legs.
• Install the leg rails with metal corners and attach them to the tabletop.
• To prevent distortions and stability of the legs, skip the planks around the perimeter under the table top. If the table has more than four legs, an additional cross bar must be strengthened in the middle.
• Clean the edges of the tabletop sandpaper from all sides.
• Cover the product with pest control (stain) and, if desired, apply a layer of varnish.

There are many ways to create a table with your own hands. The final version of our proposed homemade wooden table can be seen in the photo.

Wooden tables for kids

When a young child grows up and begins to sit on his own, the time comes for him to feed him with various complementary foods.

Wooden table for feeding - the most good option furniture designed for a comfortable meal. Tables are usually made together with chairs and have a common design.

There are several types of children's chairs:

• transforming chairs
• chairs with adjustable back.

In the first case, the seat height is adjusted according to the purpose. The child can not only eat at the table, but also play if you remove the folding wooden table and lower the seat.

In the second case adjustable height seat allows you to raise the baby higher or lower it to a safe distance from the floor. Even in the event of an unsuccessful maneuver, the child will not be able to harm himself and will allow the mother to do her daily chores in the kitchen.

Buying wooden tables for feeding, parents may not worry about the health of the child - allergic reactions he will not appear. Therefore, natural wood material is most often used for the manufacture of children's furniture.

When buying a table, you should pay attention to sharp corners that can cause unwanted damage to its small owner.

Finally, I would like to say that thanks to wooden furniture there are many possibilities to furnish a home under various design. Especially popular is the rustic style with the use of natural materials and copying the antique interior.

Safety and personal health directly depends on the type of materials that are in your home.

Another important fact is that wood is such a material that you can work with without using complex tools and equipment. Thus, any man is able to create beautiful things on his own for reasonable money.

Photo of a wooden table

An oak table is a prestigious decoration for any living room. Such furniture emphasizes the status of the owner and his delicate taste. In addition, a table made of wood of this species can last for decades, and at the same time retain its properties and gloss.

The prices for oak products have always been not small, which is why we will teach you how to make an oak table with your own hands and save a significant amount.

Tools

• Mallet. Unlike a conventional hammer, this tool does not damage the tree even if it fails. Necessary when working with noble breeds. The mallet can be made of wood or rubber.
• Carpenter's ax. Used for working wood, turning grooves or smoothing out irregularities. Features a short handle and wide blade.

  

• Bow saw. Designed for sawing parts at different angles. Paired with this tool, a miter box is used, a device for conveniently fixing parts during sawing.
  

  

• Wood saw. It is used for sawing large parts and grinding finished saw cuts. It is better to choose a model with fine teeth, so the wood will be processed more accurately.

  

• Chisel. It is used for chipping irregularities, crushing wood and making recesses. It can be used as an additional tool when sawing recesses and grooves.

  

• Electric jigsaw with guided shoe. A tool that greatly speeds up sawing. With a jigsaw, you can cut wood at an angle and even change direction as you work.

  

• Disc grinder. It is used for smoothing irregularities, processing ends and sharp corners. Helps give wood a smooth, matte finish.

  

• Belt grinder. It is mainly used for grinding straight surfaces and smoothing out irregularities.

  

• Manual milling machine. It is used in the processing of packing edges, their sawing and cutting out various grooves. Allows you to make cuts in an arc, select holes and grooves.

  

• Universal household woodworking machine. Such a mechanism will significantly speed up some work, and with a slight modification, it will even allow you to carve the legs of the table. But due to the solid cost, not everyone can buy it.

  

• Decorative impregnation for wood. Protects wood from premature decay and external damage. It also creates a protective layer against pests.

  

• Varnish for wood. Additionally protects the wood from damage, creates a noble gloss and dullness.

  

• Furniture clamping screws. Used to fasten parts together. Such screws provide a stable connection better than self-tapping screws.

  

• Screwdriver. Used to fasten screws. If you wish, you can get by with a screwdriver, but a power tool will allow you to do everything faster and better.

  

materials

To make an oak table with our own hands, we need seven boards measuring 1000 x 100 x 32 and two boards measuring 1000 x 100 x 50. It is best to do carpentry work in a specially prepared, ventilated room with good lighting.

Assembly

Labor and cost

An oak board costs 39,000 rubles per cubic meter, we only need nine pieces, so the cost will be lower. Furniture coupling screws will cost 12 rubles apiece.

One can of impregnation costs about 600 rubles, depending on the manufacturer. The varnish will cost about 200 rubles per 0.2 liter.

Sawing, processing and assembling boards will not take much time with proper skill. In total, this will take about four hours. Drying the table during painting can take from 12 to 24 hours.