Features of waterproofing the floor under the screed. Ground floor waterproofing: types of waterproofing and device technology Device for waterproofing the floor of waterproofing soil

23.06.2020

The floor covering needs mandatory protection from the harmful effects of moisture. This task is of particular importance in the case of foundation on the ground, which are often equipped in a warm climate. Here, both the waterproofing of the earthen floor and the concrete floor are equally important, since in the first version it cuts off the capillary penetration of moisture from the soil, and in the second it prevents its absorption by the concrete screed.

Why is it necessary to waterproof the floor on the ground: what is the danger of penetrating moisture

At some depth of the soil there is a water-saturated layer. Since any soil is water-permeable to some extent, it is natural that, as it becomes more porous, it absorbs moisture. The capillary rise is the greater, the more dense the soil is, and the pores in it are thinner.

Moisture, even in the case of dense and oily clay, very slowly, but rises above the aquifer by at least 12 m.

If moisture meets some obstacle in the lifting zone, say, a concrete floor, then it is gradually saturated with liquid droplets and water vapor. Salts from the soil dissolved in water slowly corrode the concrete and destroy the structure of the wood, thereby reducing the operational life of the floors.

Moreover, the moisture that has entered the pores of concrete expands by about 9% when it freezes and breaks it. The resulting microcracks open the way for active penetration of moisture. In addition, alternating cycles of "freeze-thaw" slowly turn the tree into dust, and the concrete completely cracks.

This problem is not new at all, and there are many ways to solve it, but in any case, this requires competent floor waterproofing, which primarily requires the presence of a “cushion” under the building.

Layered "pillow" under the dirt floor

The layering of the base allows you to avoid the formation of pits and failures - undesirable consequences that are fraught with natural subsidence of the soil. The structure of such a structure is determined by the characteristics of the soil under the house under construction.

The sequence of layers in the "pie"

"Bottom up" materials are arranged in the following sequence.

Dense soil. At this stage, the natural earth base is strongly compacted. In these works, special tools are used, for example, a level.

Bedding. It is carried out in two layers, each of the order of 10 cm. Crushed stone is used as a material, preferably a coarse fraction and sand - without any restrictions. Everything should be compacted as much as possible. The backfill does not allow water to penetrate into the higher layers by capillary action and provide a leveling base for further work. If the distance from the GWL (level ground water) to the base of more than two meters, then crushed stone can be replaced with expanded clay.

But replacing it with broken bricks or similar material is unacceptable.

Having laid all three layers, proceed to the next steps. What they will be depends on the type of future floor, whether it will be wooden or concrete.

Floor in basement

Proper basement floor waterproofing involves a number of activities that include foundation work and installation around the house. drainage system. First of all, they study the features of the soil for the structure, that is, the relief and its saturation with groundwater.

Device at low groundwater level

Most often, a carefully compacted sand and gravel cushion of 10-15 cm is enough to keep groundwater from entering the basement. The sub-base is cleaned and leveled. Clay can also be laid and compacted. Next, a reinforced concrete screed is poured, which is kept for about two weeks. The screed is covered with mastic and rolled waterproofing is laid with an overlap on the walls. Insulation sheets are laid with an overlap of 10 s and welded with a gas burner.

Device at high groundwater level

When water rises from the ground higher than the floor level in the basement, their pressure increases and approaches to finishing work in the basement change accordingly.

GWL up to 20 cm from the basement floor. Coating waterproofing is applied to the walls of the basement and a “castle” of clay is arranged. Oily crumpled clay is also used to prepare the concrete base.

Today, another technology is used for the “lock” device - bentonite. The bentonite clay underlying it has high colloidal properties, which makes it possible to limit the height of the protective layer to 1-2 cm. Concrete is laid between the geotextile or cardboard.

GWL at a height of 20–50 cm from the floor. The floor surface in the basement is leveled with cement screed, and then, in preparation from concrete, roll material is laid in two layers. From below, the structure is under high hydrostatic pressure. To balance it, concrete must be laid on top of the waterproofing.

UGV at a height of more than 50 cm. In this case, three layers of rolled materials or waterproofing are used and a reinforced concrete slab is arranged. It must be embedded in the basement wall, which perceives the hydrostatic pressure created by groundwater, as it works in bending. In addition, along the walls of the basement, the places of their junction with the base are insulated with bitumen-polymer tapes.

To increase the hydrophobicity of cement-sand bases, it is also recommended to use penetrating materials. They include additives from chemically active substances. Through capillary moisture through open pores, they enter the thickness of the substrate. When they interact with the components of concrete, filamentous crystals are formed, narrowing, they reduce water permeability.

Use of liquid rubber

Liquid rubber allows you to get a seamless surface that is completely insulating from water. Given the insufficient strength of rubber to mechanical damage, geotextiles are laid on top of it for protection and poured with a reinforced concrete screed. In this case, it performs two functions: it protects against damage and pressurizes when groundwater rises.

Ground waterproofing concrete floor

When constructing a concrete floor, the same three base layers of the “pie” are needed. However, it requires a serious approach. This is due to the contradiction between the structure of soil and concrete: the first is mobile, and the second is a monolith. It is necessary to take into account and combine both of these factors, usually two possible methods are used.

The sequence in the first variant is as follows:

Behind the sandy part another of fine gravel is laid.
As a rough screed, gravel is not poured with a thick layer of a solution of cement and sand.
The maximum height difference for every 2 m is 3 mm.
Next, roll material is laid - two layers. More often, roofing felt or roofing material is used for this. The joints are insulated with a gas burner.

Waterproofing materials must be free of powder.

After laying the thermal insulation, a finishing screed is performed.

In the second variant, the first hydrobarrier is created using a polyethylene film laid on top of the sandy one. All joints must be insulated with adhesive tape or other adhesive-based impermeable material.

Even minimal damage is enough for the film to cease to serve as an insulator.

Next, a rough screed is laid from a standard cement-sand composition. Its thickness is limited to 50-70 mm. By subfloor lay waterproofing. Any rolled material is suitable for it - whether it be a membrane or roofing material. Then in order - thermal insulation and finishing screed. With a surface location of groundwater, it makes sense to additionally arrange waterproofing on the ground.

Capital repairs of the apartment should begin with the arrangement of the floors. Before laying a new coating, it is imperative to form a screed. It cannot be implemented without preliminary work. Waterproofing the floor before the screed is an integral part of the preparatory process.

Justification for the need for waterproofing

Many builders consider waterproofing a waste of time and material, but it is necessary. With her, the apartment becomes cozier and more comfortable. Waterproofing has a positive effect on such points as:

Protection of the apartment from moisture.

In the absence of waterproofing, moisture vapor from the lower floor or basement can penetrate into the screed. In a private house, capillary moisture and water vapor rise from the ground. Having an alkaline or acidic environment, they strongly interact with the constituents. concrete pavement. As a result, it becomes covered with cracks and collapses.

Protection of the lower floors from leaks.

Crane failure, breakdown washing machine, water flowing over the edges in the bathroom - all this can lead to flooding of neighbors from below. Moisture, having gone into the ceiling, after a while will appear on the ceiling of the lower floor. High-quality waterproofing will help to avoid unpleasant moments.

Features of the waterproofing device in the bathroom are reflected in the video:

Protecting the health of the household.

In a humid environment at a warm temperature, fungi and mold successfully spread, which negatively affects the physical condition of a person.

Increasing the strength of structures and coatings.

They also tend to break down when exposed to moisture.

The quality of the screed and the ease of laying the finished floor.

Important! Waterproofing before the screed should be done in all rooms, not just in the bathroom or kitchen. Concrete contains moisture. Hydroprotection provides it with gradual evaporation, which positively affects the strength and quality of the screed.

Preparation and some features

Waterproofing in the house has its own nuances. Maximum protection is needed for a dwelling without a basement, located on the ground floor, due to the close proximity of the ground. Previously, the floor surface is sometimes leveled with special mixtures, and if there was a redevelopment of the room, then a tread layer is laid on the base.

Partial waterproofing does not provide maximum protection, and water finds a place to seep through. That is, if possible, it is best to make a complete waterproofing, and in rooms with increased level humidity should protect not only the floor, but also the walls.

Preliminary work

The room in which the waterproofing is planned to be laid must be completely empty. After that, the overlap is completely “bare” and cleaned (from dust, dirt and other debris). Next, a careful check of the plates and joints begins.

Any cracks, every loose joint between the plates is carefully sealed. Selective correction of defects in the future threatens with heat losses and leaves ways for noise to penetrate into the room. It is most logical to solve all problems immediately, and not leave them until the next repair.

If a reinforced concrete floor acts as a base, one cannot do without a penetrating waterproofing composition, for example, Betonokontakt. Prices for it vary, ranging from $ 1.3 per 1 kg. The costs will be relatively small, because impregnation is required only for rooms with high humidity: kitchen, bathroom and toilet. The rest of the rooms are recommended to be covered with simple primers. Thus, the floors will be protected from destruction and even bad smell dampness will disappear after a while.

Types of waterproofing

There are several types of waterproofing. Below are the most common ones

Sand pillow. For a private house without a basement, a gravel-sand pillow is best suited. In this case, crushed stone or gravel is laid under the screed. After careful tamping, it is covered with sand. The result is a kind of pillow with air gaps.

Waterproofing, due to structural features, protects the base from the capillary passage of groundwater. To exclude the harmful effects of water vapor, you should use additional film vapor barrier.

Film waterproofing. Vapor waterproofing films are used not only for waterproofing the floor in houses, but also in apartments. With their help, a waterproof coating is created. As a result, the screed is protected from vapors and moisture, and the floor slabs are protected from water leaks.
Coating waterproofing. It is carried out using mastic made of rubber or bitumen. It is able to fill any irregularities in the base. The protection is applied in several layers.
Impregnation waterproofing. Relatively new, but simple and effective floor waterproofing before screed. Differs in the increased resistance to the destroying influence of moisture. The protective coating applied to the base impregnates the concrete and interacts with its components. As a result, needle-shaped crystals are formed, which protect the floor from moisture. Polymer or polymer-bitumen solutions are used as a waterproofing material. The penetration of water into the pores of concrete only helps to strengthen the foundation.
Adhesive type. It is also called rolled waterproofing. Protection treated with bitumen and synthetic compounds. Moreover, it has a fiberglass base. The material repels water and does not suffer from the hostile effects of chemicals that are contained in its composition. Demanded in private construction and renovation of apartments.

Laying technology

Depending on the material used, different methods are used. When working on them, certain points should be taken into account, for example:

To ensure reliable adhesion of mastic layers, each subsequent layer must be applied no later than three hours after the previous one.
Adhesive-based roll materials are excellent for pasting protection. They greatly increase the speed of laying.
Polyethylene film is best suited for insulating a wooden floor.
Liquid moisture protection agents turn into a thin film after drying. Its maximum allowable thickness is 3 mm. The material is applied with a brush and renewed every 5 years.
Ideal floor protection is created by combining several types of waterproofing.

Sand cushion device

The process consists of the following steps:

Foundation preparation. From the soil, which is located under the future floor, the upper fertile and chemically active layer is removed. The earth is being leveled.
Gravel laying. Crushed stone with a fraction of no more than 5 cm is poured over the soil. The material is leveled and rammed (large differences in height are not allowed). The thickness of the embankment should not be less than 0.2 m, and with a close location of groundwater, the minimum level increases to 0.5 m.
Sand filling. Compacted gravel is covered with coarse sand. A layer thickness of 0.1-0.4 m is allowed. Sand is poured with water and compacted. This material should fill the pores in the rubble.
Geotextile laying. It has shock-absorbing functions and protects the insulation and waterproofing from possible damage. Glue the material with a building hair dryer.
Foam insulation pad. Any material with increased mechanical strength is used. Penoplex and polystyrene are best suited.
Foundation waterproofing film or roll materials (if necessary).

Roll waterproofing device

The process involves the following points:

Cleaning and leveling the base. Potholes and irregularities are rubbed with cement mortar.
Primer with bituminous emulsion. It is only necessary if you plan to use roofing material (as a waterproofing). If desired, the floors can also be treated with penetrating waterproofing (for additional protection).
Damper tape. It is stretched along the perimeter of the floor and fixed with plinth dowels or glue.
Roll material flooring. The sheets are laid so that they overlap, overlapping each other by no more than 10 cm and closing the walls by at least 20 cm. Roll waterproofing can be laid in several layers, the main thing is to glue them together.

Important! The roofing material is laid in two or more layers, gluing it to the ceiling with bituminous mastic. Films are usually stacked in one row.

It is customary to fix the welded materials with a gas heater, and the polymer films are welded with a building hair dryer.
Elimination of blisters. The place where swelling appeared is cut with a knife and smoothed with a spatula. After, the edges of the material are bent, smeared with mastic and glued.
When the waterproofing is laid, you can start reinforcing, but it is not a mandatory item in the "program".
Protruding pieces of tape and waterproofing are removed only after the screed has dried.

An example of laying rolled waterproofing - in the video:

Coating waterproofing technology

Laying consists of the following steps:

Foundation preparation. The surface is cleaned of dust and debris. The process removes all sharp edges and stains from active substances and oils in order to avoid destruction of the insulation during operation.
Primer treatment. It increases the adhesion of the mastic. Dries on average 2 hours. It is recommended to buy both mastic and primer from the same manufacturer. The primer should be applied with a brush, in one layer. Especially carefully should be processed the joints of walls and floors, corners and space near the pipes.
The ideal option is bitumen or bitumen-rubber mastic. Its price is quite democratic, starting from $ 0.8 per kg. The material is applied with a roller or brush, moving in different directions. Coating with the next layer is carried out only after the previous one has solidified.
Screed filling. As a rule, waterproofing dries completely in 2 days, then they proceed to reinforcement.

Important! The use of metal fittings may damage the insulation. It is much safer to use fiberglass guides. They are light and strong.

Clay floors are the most ancient version of flooring, now they have begun to be popular again. True, only among a narrow circle of admirers of natural buildings. We note right away that in terms of all physical, technological and operational indicators, earthen floors are much inferior to widespread technologies. The installation of such floors requires great physical effort, a lot of time and deep knowledge of ancient technologies. Before talking about the methods of waterproofing an earthen floor, you need to become more familiar with the technology of their manufacture. This knowledge will help developers understand weak sides designs and choose from several methods of waterproofing the most appropriate in a particular case.

In special articles about earthen floors, you can find a fairly large list of their advantages. But are all the characteristics true? Let's take a closer look at some of them.

Availability. This is motivated by the fact that there are no problems finding clay, it costs nothing, etc. What is it really? Not all clay is suitable, but only pure clay, it is not so easy to find it. Often the material lies at a rather great depth, it is necessary to dig open pits, for this it is necessary to involve expensive earthmoving equipment. To these costs should be added the rental of dump trucks and the total amount is no longer so affordable for developers.
Cheapness. Again, lovers of natural houses argue this advantage with free clay. But even here everything is not so simple. Firstly, in addition to clay, you will need clean sand, gravel, waterproofing materials, finishing. Secondly, it is better to use mechanical machines for ramming, and you will have to pay for them. Another significant expense item is the finishing coating of the earthen floor. Clay is covered with several layers of natural oil and wax. And their cost far exceeds the prices of the most modern and high-quality paints. And the last big item of expenditure is for the repair of earthen floors after mechanical damage or flooding will require not only a lot of time, but also money.
Ease of pouring the floor. We will not now consider the issue of the technology for making adobe clay solution, we will talk about this below. Let's talk about the "simplicity of pouring" from the point of view of an ordinary builder. Earthen floors can only be done after the building has been roofed, otherwise the sediment will destroy all work. Before starting the construction of the earthen floor, it is necessary to prepare pits for them, then take out the earth, bring in sand and gravel, compact them, make hydroprotection, and only after that fill in the clay floor. Calculate the approximate amount of work for small house with a total area of 100 m2. According to technology, the depth of the pit is 50-60 cm, to facilitate calculations, we will take a depth of 50 cm. After simple arithmetic calculations, we determine the amount of earthwork: 100 m 2 × 0.5 m = 50 m 3. That is how much earth you need to dig with a shovel and take it out with a wheelbarrow along a wooden ladder, because the house must be under a roof. The same volume of sand, gravel and clay needs to be brought in, and again only a hand wheelbarrow and a shovel are the only equipment. It is easy to guess that such a volume of work takes a lot of time, and if it is not there, then you will have to hire teams of builders who do not work for free. If you have free time, then it is more expedient to spend it with greater benefit than running around with a shovel and a wheelbarrow in your hands.
Environmental friendliness. This concept is abused by all construction companies and manufacturers. There can be no real environmental friendliness in principle. Energy is needed to make any product, and it is not environmentally friendly. In addition, natural materials are used as raw materials. Extracting them from their natural environment always harms nature, where is the “environmental friendliness” here? We believe that there is no point in using such words, there is reason to talk about the safety of building materials for the health of residents. According to this indicator, earthen (clay) floors are really harmless. But this is not their unique advantage. Similarly, natural lumber, ceramic tiles, etc. are harmless.
Clay floor accumulates solar energy. Yes, it's true, a massive floor can accumulate a large amount of thermal energy and then release it into the room. But these laws of thermodynamics apply to all bodies (materials): brick, concrete, iron, etc.
Earthen floors can be made with heating. It's true, you can. But the question is, is it necessary? Firstly, cracks will certainly appear on them over time, along which it will be possible to see the layout of the heating system. Secondly, the technology of laying earthen floors prescribes that the minimum thickness of the coating should be approximately 20 cm. Such a large mass of clay has a huge thermal inertia. In order to feel the effect of heating, it will take several hours. Another problem is the relatively high thermal conductivity, which increases heat loss. Thermal insulation will have to be installed under the earthen floors, and this not only significantly increases the cost of the structure, but also requires rather complex special construction solutions.

We hope that this information will be useful for those who plan to make earthen floors.

Types of waterproofing earthen floors

If for other building materials of floor coverings, high humidity is considered an unpleasant, but non-critical physical indicator, then earthen floors with high humidity cannot be used at all. In this regard, the issues of their waterproofing should be given very great attention. Construction technology recommends using the following materials for waterproofing earthen floors.

Table. Types of materials for waterproofing earthen floor.

Name	Physical properties and application features
	This type includes polyethylene film, roofing material and bituminous coatings based on non-woven materials. Differ in full water tightness, universal use. Service life - not less than fifty years.
	It has low rates of capillary rise of moisture; a thickness of about 20 cm is sufficient for complete waterproofing. Using it as the only layer of waterproofing is problematic due to the fact that there is a possibility of filling the air gaps between stones with sand or other material with high capillary conductivity. It is recommended to use only for arranging a complex waterproofing of an earthen floor.
	It is used quite often and not only as a waterproofing layer, but also as a base for an earthen floor. The disadvantage is that a layer of washed sand with a thickness of at least 50 centimeters can provide complete waterproofing. This is a lot; in practice, sand is used in conjunction with other materials.

The choice of material for waterproofing earthen floors - important point during their construction, but not decisive. Full compliance with the recommended technologies and stages of waterproofing is considered decisive..

Waterproofing technology

For example, consider the technology of manufacturing earthen floors with a detailed description of the stages and possible options for waterproofing.

Step 1. Preparatory stage. Make a plan of your actions, prepare materials. Floor laying must be done from the farthest room, keep in mind that it is strictly forbidden to transport building materials over ready-made earthen surfaces. You will have to remove and feed materials through the windows, and this significantly complicates the construction process.

Decide on the range of waterproofing materials and their quantity. Professional builders recommend using sand with plastic wrap or ruberoid. The film thickness is at least 200 microns, it must be applied in at least two layers. Roofing felt can be used as an ordinary cheap, and expensive on nonwovens coated with modified bitumen.

Calculate the volume of sand and clay, if the earthen floor will be prepared from adobe, then you need to prepare the fillers used: sawdust, straw, etc. Recommendations for the thickness of each layer of the earthen floor will be given in step by step instructions. To make the floor you will need straw, sand, clay, natural linseed oil, natural wax, mineral thinner, paint. The earthen floor consists of the following layers.

The dimensions of the layers can be adjusted at will, but it is not recommended to reduce the thickness of the clay.

Step 2 Remove from premises extra land: fertile layer and organic layers. Mark the zero level around the perimeter of the foundation of the room.

Zero level - the location of the upper surface of the floor. From the zero level, marks should be made down, each point should indicate the thickness of the corresponding layer of the floor pie. Horizontal lines along the perimeter of the foundation are made with a blued rope, the thickness of the cake is determined by a laser or water level. If you do not have a laser device, then the hydraulic level can be made independently from an ordinary plastic transparent flexible hose with a diameter of about 5 mm. The length of the hose should be several meters longer than the diagonal of the room.

Important! When filling the hose with water, take care not to form air locks. If they are, then the readings of the hydraulic level will be distorted.

Horizontal lines along the perimeter of the foundation should be applied in the following sequence:

using a tape measure, beat off vertical points indicating the thickness of each layer of the pie;
attach one end of a flexible plastic hose to the first mark;
step back a few steps and attach the summer second end of the hose to the foundation;
lower / raise it until the water level at the second end is equal to the first mark;
With a pencil, put a new mark on the foundation. It should be located exactly at the water level at the second end.

Using the same algorithm, make markings around the entire perimeter, and then connect the points located at the same height with horizontal lines. Such a simple markup will allow you to control the height of the layers during the production of work.

Step 3 Level the ground. Height difference in extreme points room should be ± 2 cm. running meter this value cannot exceed one centimeter. It is recommended to check the parameters by a rule or a long level. Remove loose earth from the pit.

Step 4 Bring crushed stone, the thickness of the layer can fluctuate by several centimeters. Carefully compact the rubble, this can be done with a hand tool or a mechanical rammer. The second option greatly facilitates and speeds up the process, in addition, it makes it possible to obtain high-quality tamping.

On a note! If you are ramming rubble by hand, then this should be done in at least two stages. The thickness of each layer is not more than 10 cm, the second is poured only after the final tamping and leveling of the first.

Step 5 If you live in regions with a cold climate, we strongly recommend that you make warming. To do this, you can use fairly strong polyurethane sheets, the thickness of the thermal insulation is at least 10 cm. Of course, it is already difficult to call such a floor natural, but health should come first. By the way, it is possible to lay any waterproofing, including plastic film, on even sheets of insulation without fear and additional construction measures. And one more advantage of polyurethane foam is that it effectively interrupts the capillary supply of moisture and itself serves as an excellent hydro-barrier. For this option, there is often no need to use additional materials for waterproofing the earthen floor.

Step 6 If you do not want to insulate the floor, then a layer of sifted dry sand is applied over the gravel. It is also necessary to tamp the material in two stages.

Important! The better the foundation is compacted, the better quality and durability of the earthen floor. Remember that insufficiently compacted layers will naturally shrink over time. Between clay top layer and the base form air chambers. As a result, the floor will bend a little or crack. You will have to repair the surface, and this is not easy to do. It is not two boards to change, it is necessary to carry out many preparatory construction operations and re-restoration of the front surface of the earthen floor.

Step 7 If you do not have waterproof insulation, then waterproofing should be laid on the sand. You can use roll modern materials or polyethylene film. There is no need to coat the joints of rolled materials with mastics and glue them - the task of waterproofing is to interrupt the capillary rise of water, and not to restrain direct contact. The bottom layer of the earthen cake should lie above the groundwater level, we have already mentioned this.

On a note! It is much more profitable to use plastic film for waterproofing, it is cheaper and allows you to waterproof the entire room with one piece. In terms of reliability, the film is in no way inferior to rolled materials, and even surpasses them in terms of service life. Why? The fact is that the main "enemy" of polyethylene is hard ultraviolet radiation. Under its influence, the intermolecular bonds of polymers are gradually destroyed, they lose their plasticity and become brittle. Under the influence of slight bending forces, the film cracks into small pieces. Several layers of earth floor completely exclude the penetration of ultraviolet rays, the film works in ideal conditions. Bitumen, on the basis of which most rolled waterproofing materials are made, loses its original properties as a result of slow chemical reactions with oxygen. And this chemical element is present in all layers of the pie, the process of bitumen decomposition proceeds continuously, albeit slowly.

Step 8 Prepare the first base layer of adobe, it requires 25% clay of the total volume and 75% sand to make it. For hardening, you can add chopped straw (traditional old version) or plastic fiber ( modern version adobe). The components must be thoroughly mixed with the addition of water until a homogeneous mass is obtained. The consistency of the solution should resemble fatty sour cream. In portions, bring the prepared mass into the room and pour it onto the waterproofing. Level the mass with the rule and grout. If there is a desire, then under the floor you can mount a water or electrical system heating. But we have already mentioned that cracks can form on the earthen floor.

The thickness of the base layer of adobe is about 10 cm. In a day, deep cracks will appear on it, they must be repaired with clay.

Step 9 After the first layer dries, the second layer is poured, and after it dries, the third one. In natural houses, the horizontalness of the floor does not play a big role, the parameter is controlled by eye. If you are not confident in your practical skills in leveling the mass or want to have a flat earthen floor, then you need to level the mixture according to the beacons.

In the old days, thick boards served as lighthouses; after the clay hardened, they were not removed. If you want to remove the beacons, then the boards need to be wrapped with plastic wrap for a while. Clay does not stick to it, removing the beacons will not be a big problem. In the future, the grooves should be carefully rubbed with adobe or clean clay. Remember that the surface of the earthen floor will never be perfectly flat, while grouting, try only to hide the adobe fillers. Small indentations will always occur due to different densities of the material and consequently different shrinkage during drying.

To finish the surface, linen is used, the number of coating layers is at least seven. Each layer should dry for 12-18 hours, the specific time depends on the ambient temperature and efficiency natural ventilation. You can speed up the drying process of the oil. To do this, set it for about a month in the sun, cover the container with gauze. Otherwise, various insects will get into the container. Due to natural weathering, the oil will become thick, it must be diluted with an organic solvent before use.

For improvement appearance after the oil has dried, the floor can be rubbed with natural wax.

Video - Clay floor in the house

Practical recommendations for waterproofing an earthen floor

If you follow all the recommendations described exactly, then the earthen floor can serve for quite a long time.

Video - Earthen floor construction technology

But it is not without a number of shortcomings. If you forget to make vents in the strip foundation (or incorrectly calculate their cross section), then over time this can lead to problems. Due to insufficient ventilation of the underground wooden logs covered with fungus, mold and rot. Excess moisture in the base also leads to destruction concrete floors floor of the first floor.

To avoid this, you can replace traditional vents with a closed ventilated underground. This is detailed in the article. “Do I need air in the basement” . But there is another option - to abandon the underground and build a floor on the ground on the basis of a strip foundation, as FORUMHOUSE experts advise.

Floors on the ground: what is itsuch

This design is a monolithic concrete base (screed). Here is the arrangement of the floor on the ground: the screed is poured inside the perimeter of the strip foundation onto well-packed soil, with which the sinuses of the foundation and the insulation layer are covered. Underfloor heating can be installed together with a concrete base. This design accumulates heat, so it is well suited as an element of an energy-efficient home.

The composition of the floor on the ground for a residential building.

There are the following options for floors on the ground:

On the prepared base (well-compacted soil), a floor slab is poured, rigidly connected with strip foundation;
A floor slab is poured onto the prepared base, which is not connected to the strip foundation, the so-called "floating" screed.

Let's take a closer look at the pros and cons of these options.

Michael1974:

- If you fill in a “floating” screed, then the construction of the tape and the floor is “untied”. If shrinkage occurs, then the floor screed structure on the ground will “play” regardless of the foundation, cracks will not appear in the structure, because. no stress. This is a plus. But there is also a minus - the design "lives its own life", separate from all other structures.

Floor device on the ground.

With a rigid structure, the foundation / screed unit works as a single unit. The screed will not shrink, because lies on the foundation. But if the soil is not compacted well enough, after a while it may sink, and the screed will “hang” in the air. With a heavy load, if there are walls, partitions, supporting elements on the screed, this can lead to deformation of the base, cracks and loss of bearing capacity the entire structure of the floor on the ground.

How to make a floor on the ground

Both screed options have both pros and cons. The quality of the concrete floors on the bulk soil depends largely on the quality of the compaction of the bulk soil and on how correct the design will turn out.

Michael1974:

– When pouring a “floating” screed, the “foundation wall / screed” assembly must really be untied, otherwise the structure may be pinched in the tape frame. Those. the floor inside the tape frame must move relatively freely, otherwise the whole point of the floating screed is lost.

To do this, a damper is made of an elastic material between the screed and the foundation (wall), which restores its original shape after the load is removed - in this case it is appropriate to place an isolon with a thickness of 8-10 mm. This will allow concrete screed float freely and compensate for its thermal expansion.

A common mistake is to tie all nodes as tightly as possible. As a result, increased loads occur in the structures. In the case of a floating screed, the "floor" and "foundation" elements work independently of each other.

Ground floor: device.Basic principles

An important rule: a well-prepared base is the key to a long service life of the entire structure. The filling base (the best backfilling of the floor on the ground is sand) must be spilled with water and carefully compacted in layers of 10-15 cm.

Due to the backfilling of crushed stone, when the rammer passes through it, a local impact occurs, as a result, there is a deep additional compaction of the soil layers lying at the lower levels. On the correct methodology tamping sand is worth building up attention.

- In all instructions for vibrating plates it is written that the plate compacts sand to a depth of 20-30 cm, but how well this layer is compacted, I doubt that it is enough. Therefore, I believe that for reinsurance it is better to compact the sand in layers of about 10 cm. It looks like this:

We spread the sand in a layer of 10-15 cm;
We pass through the sand with a vibrating plate "dry";
Spill sand with water from a hose. It is necessary to do this not with a jet of water, so as not to break the layer, but through a spray nozzle;

It is necessary to spill water so that the sand is wet, but not oversaturated with moisture. If the amount of water is too large, then the sand base is practically not rammed.

We pass through the moistened sand with a vibrating plate 2 times with a change in the orientation of movement;
Spill the sand with water again;
We pass along the moistened sand with a vibrating plate 2-3 more times with a change in the direction of movement.

What kind of waterproofing to put on the floor on the ground

After thorough preparation of the base, we proceed to laying the hydro-vapor barrier, which will protect the floor structure from moisture. It is often asked whether it is necessary to make a footing before laying this layer. After all, welded or glued waterproofing, in order to avoid damage, must be placed on a flat, rigid base.

Waterproofing the floor before the screed: how to make a concrete base waterproof

Waterproofing under the screed can be carried out different ways. The main condition for a high-quality waterproofing coating #8211; its layer must be continuous and without any defects.

The main goals of waterproofing works:

Improving the quality of the screed and creating the necessary level of humidity for subsequent laying various types floor coverings. Thanks to the protective layer, the percentage of moisture in the building mixture will not quickly decrease, which will protect the screed from cracking and increase its strength characteristics.

Protection of the lower floors from leakage mortar and water.

Protection of the room from capillary penetration of moisture.

Today, the construction industry offers a wide range of different waterproofing materials, which can be divided into several groups:

Only a continuous waterproofing coating can be reliable protection from moisture penetration

Roll waterproofing

The most economical and easiest option is a dense waterproofing film, it is available in gray, black or brown. Roll pasting waterproofing #8211; stronger and more reliable protection. It is made on the basis of bitumen, fiberglass or synthetic compounds.

Preparation of the surface for work with pasting insulating material is as follows. First, the base is cleaned of debris and leveled, covered with a bituminous emulsion, and only after that proceed with installation. The layers are glued overlapping, for greater strength, the entry is made up to 30 centimeters. Do not use a coating that has a cardboard base.

Rolled waterproofing is easy to install and securely glued to the base

Liquid waterproofing

Produced in the form of a mixture - mastic based on bitumen. Such a mixture is applied with a brush on a surface previously cleaned of dust and debris. Ordinary molten bitumen can also be used, but it should be borne in mind that such a coating is short-lived.

First, the base of the floor must be leveled. To correctly determine the slope, the thickness of the leveling layer and the thickness of the screed, mark the floor level on the wall surfaces. After that, the surface is cleaned of debris and dust, and existing defects are sealed with tile adhesive. If there are protruding and sharp elements, they must be blunted, otherwise they will violate the integrity of the layer. If there are a lot of such irregularities, you can sprinkle the surface with a layer of sand.

Under screed waterproofing

Protection of all elements of any building from moisture penetration is mandatory, regardless of the characteristics of the soil of the area on which the house stands or is being built. There is an opinion that if a private building has a basement that is well insulated, then this can be neglected, saving on material and labor costs. Such reasoning is wrong.

Waterproofing under the screed protects not only from the penetration of liquid and, as a result, the appearance of dampness in the premises, mold and unhealthy air. This leads not only to a violation of the comfortable microclimate in the house and reduces the life of the things in it, various machinery and equipment. Together with water, the particles dissolved in it "come" various substances, many of which are aggressive.

Acids and alkalis, penetrating into the structure of finishing and building materials, act destructively. Can't even resist them concrete slab, which is widely used as an interfloor overlap. It will gradually "weaken". And if we take into account that all the components of the structure of the structure are designed for a certain load, it becomes quite clear that without high-quality waterproofing under the screed, the reliability of the entire building, which means that the service life without overhaul, will begin to decrease sharply.

It is also necessary to take into account the fact that heat losses in the premises increase. After all, shells and cracks form in the ceilings over time. The screed itself, also under the influence of constant dampness, will begin to become covered with faults, which can also affect the state of the “finish” finish. For example, if the owner chose to arrange self-leveling floors. If logs are installed on top of the screed under wooden floors, then the wood will begin to rot. Hence - the deformation of the floorboards. the appearance of a creak and musty air.

In addition, waterproofing under the screed is a reliable protection for various types of insulation. At correct device floors, such material is used regardless of what “design” the flooring will have. After all, no one needs a cold floor in the house, especially if the family has small children who constantly play on it.

If the subsoil waters come close to the surface at the location of the house, then additional measures are taken when arranging waterproofing under the screed. It is also necessary to take into account whether there is a room with high humidity on the lower floor (for example, an unheated basement). In this case, the insulation becomes especially reliable.

With special care, such work must be carried out in those rooms where excess humidity will constantly be present. For example, bathroom, shower room, swimming pool, laundry and a number of others. More reliable methods are impregnating or coating. The use of roll materials will require additional measures to seal the joints of the strips.

Waterproofing under the screed has another practical value. Private houses are now mainly built on two floors. And if the building is one-story, then the owners use the basement more intensively. Each dwelling has its own engineering systems. Among them are those in which water is present (water supply, sewerage, heating).

If there is emergency situation and the entire floor will be flooded, then the rooms located on more low levels, also, albeit partially, will be flooded. As a result, things, finishing materials will suffer. Having saved on waterproofing, there is a risk of subsequently “parting” with even more money. Yes, nerves too.

Screed on the separating layer of waterproofing

The screed on the separating layer is nothing more than a screed with waterproofing. It is mandatory performed in the floors of bathrooms. It is desirable (but not necessary) to use it under self-leveling floors, since in this case it is better to play it safe when pouring the screed and not flood the neighbors on the floor.

Waterproofing can be for pressure and non-pressure waters, pasting and coating, membrane and from individual panels. Almost any of them can be used to create a waterproofing layer in the floor structure. Previously, in the floors of bathrooms, waterproofing was made from rolled materials, most often from roofing material, with gluing the joints and the entire panel with hot bituminous mastic. Ruberoid is a dense construction paper impregnated with a bituminous binder. Since the composition of the roofing material contains a cellulose component - paper, sooner or later it begins to rot and the roofing material is destroyed.

2. Preparation of the base.

We remove debris from the floor and close up all clearly visible holes with cheap tile glue. Next, we inspect the overlap and knock it off or dull sharp irregularities. In order for them not to break through the film, on which you will have to walk a lot during the screed installation.

If there are too many sharp irregularities, then it is advisable to sprinkle them with sand, that is, to make a thin sand preparation on the floor. In most cases sand will not be needed, the top of the floor slabs is usually quite even. Mounting loops, unless they are bent into the holes specially designed for them in the slab, in this case it is better to cut and grind flush with the top of the slab. Otherwise, the plastic film may catch on the mounting loop during operation and tear. If, due to height differences between the floor slabs, a break of the film is possible, then they must be eliminated, for example, by sanding. In other cases, eliminating drops is a waste of time and effort.

3. Laying the separating layer.

We use a polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.2 mm. If the area of \u200b\u200bthe room allows, then the film is laid entirely in one piece over the entire area, leading the ends to the walls 100-150 mm higher than the intended screed. We straighten the film, but lay it without tension. The laid waterproofing should form a trough around the entire perimeter of the room. In the doorway, pre-install the restrictive board. The board must be installed flush with the surfaces of the walls of the room where the screed will be laid. Bathrooms will need to install a door with a threshold, the threshold should be protected by waterproofing and not installed on top of it. If there is already a door, then we let the waterproofing on it in the same way as on the walls. Cut off the excess later. For guaranteed waterproofing, it is better to make it in two layers.

If the width of the room exceeds the dimensions of the film, then we use self-adhesive roll waterproofing materials, or waterproofing membranes, or coating waterproofing forming a single carpet after drying. If, nevertheless, a polyethylene film is used, then we lay the pieces of the film with an overlap of at least 20 cm and glue the seams with adhesive tape, or better, glue or weld with an iron through a newspaper and only then additionally glue it with adhesive tape. Without fail we lay the second layer of the film. We lay the second layer parallel to the first, but with a shift of the weld relative to the seam of the lower layer by half the width of the panel.

3. Installation of beacons.

The screed on the separating layer, as well as the associated screed, can be made from two types of materials: from a home-made or purchased cement-sand mixture and from ready-made non-shrinking dry mixes. Thin leveling screeds are made from self-leveling compounds.

When pouring the screed with a semi-dry cement-sand mortar or a non-shrinking leveling compound, do not install pin beacons! They will perforate the film, so we make ordinary mortar beacons. Along opposite walls, we lay mortar piles on the film or make a bed and rub the plaster profile or profile used for plasterboard structures into the solution. To determine the mark of the top level of the screed, the film, which has been applied to the walls and covering the marking of the level of the screed, can be temporarily bent. Screw self-tapping screws into the nylon dowels drilled into the walls along the marking lines and pull the fishing line between them. First, a lighthouse is made along one wall, then along another, then beacons are made between them.

Rice. 38. Marking the level of the screed for self-leveling compounds

When pouring the screed with a self-leveling mixture, you can use the spider beacon. Usually this type of beacons is used for screeds of large areas and is not used for leveling floors in an apartment. One beacon is installed on 2–3 m² of screed area. Lighthouse "spider" is made of regular nut with a screw in it. Three or four legs of thin reinforcement are welded to the nut. In order for the legs of the lighthouse not to tear the waterproofing film, their ends are bent up. A bolt is screwed into the nut, which is aligned with the height of the tie at the bottom of the bolt shaft (Fig. 38). That is, the beacon installation horizon is checked at the top of the bolt head, adjusted for the length of the bolt, and the fill level of the screed is checked at the bottom of the bolt. "Spiders" for self-leveling screeds are installed in any place. They will not need to be driven with a rule and a spatula, their purpose is to visually indicate the height of the screed when it is made far from the walls, on which lines are drawn indicating the border of the top of the screed. Moreover, these lines will be covered with an overlap of a waterproofing carpet. When installing a screed, carefully pour the solution around the "spiders" so that they are not washed away from the marked place.

4. Damper joint device.

Along the perimeter of the room (along all walls), around columns, pilasters and other protruding parts, we glue on a film or temporarily press in any other way strips of rolled insulation with a height exceeding the height of the screed, and 10 mm thick. The damper layer will make it possible to avoid cracking on shrinkable screeds and will help with sound insulation - on non-shrinking screeds.

5. Screed device.

A screed of a semi-dry cement-sand mixture and a factory-made leveling mixture is made in the manner described on the previous pages. That is, the mixture fits into the inter-beacon gap and is stretched by the rule along the beacons. The thickness of the screeds from cement-sand and leveling mortars along the separating layer of waterproofing is made at least 30 mm - for bathrooms (under tiles) and at least 40-50 mm - for other rooms. The thickness of the premixed screeds is determined by the dry mix manufacturer. It can be different, to determine the thickness of the screed, read the annotation on the bags with mixtures.

Rice. 39. Laying self-levelling compounds

Mortar self-leveling mixtures are very plastic, it is not necessary to stretch them with a rule. The maximum that needs to be done for them is to correct the thickness of the screed with a wide spatula (Fig. 39) and make sure that the screed level coincides with the bottom of the “spider beacons”. Self-levelling compounds are brought to the place of laying in buckets and poured onto the base. Each subsequent bucket should be poured next to the previous one with a partial overlay of the solution. The filling process must be continuous. You need to work with at least two people: one stirs the solution, the other spreads and spills. Self-leveling mixture under its own weight itself spreads into the horizon. It is only necessary to ensure that the level of the screed is topped up to the desired limit and not overfilled. Control by beacons. In the process of pouring the screed with self-leveling compounds, consistently remove the "spiders" from the places already filled with the screed.

6. Care of the screed.

For cement-sand screeds it is necessary to ensure that the screed does not dry out ahead of time for three days. Cover it with plastic wrap and prevent drafts at the top of the screed. To care for self-leveling mortars, read the instructions on the bag and follow them.

Do I need waterproofing 1

Alexey Guest

Sergey Alexandrovich Guest

I'm renovating an office, I'm going to do a screed. The masters advised to do only a primer under the screed (Prospectors). A friend also advises waterproofing to protect against odors from the basement. (The basement is empty and there are puddles from time to time.) Is it worth it? And if so, which is better? And what comes first: primer or waterproofing?

Alexey Guest

Waterproofing Center Guest

/// If there is moisture in the basement, then it is worth making the basement waterproofing, because. there is a chance that the floor and the bottom of the walls may be damp. It will be smart.

The basement is not mine - the housing office has the key 🙁 But the moisture there is only periodically.

If economical (as usual.) - then make a vapor-tight waterproofing under the screed.

It's not about saving, it's just that I can't repair my basement, and there is no admission there :-(.

And what material (materials) would you recommend to an amateur? And what comes first - primer or waterproofing? Or is primer not needed at all?

Cement-based waterproofing materials of penetrating action.

It has a double protective effect:

- capillary, as a result of deep penetration into the pores of the material being isolated,

- armoring, as a result of the formation of a mechanically and chemically strong layer on the surface.

Contents Waterproofing under laminate floors video. Floor waterproofing How to level a floor under a laminate: recipes for concrete and wood Waterproofing - floors How to prepare a floor for a laminate Waterproofing floors under ...